Lodi Wine: Mediterranean Mineral Vermentino

Vermentino -- the "thinking man’s Pinot Grigio", Jim Moore, winemaker/proprietor of Uvaggio (1)

Like Albarino, our Snooth group quickly noticed another under-appreciated white wine grape grown in Lodi Wine county: Vermentino. This Mediterranean grape propers in the Italian regions of Liguria, Tuscany, Piedmont, Corsica, and Sardinia as well as in the southerly French regions of Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon where it is known as Rolle. Vermentino wines typically exhibit herby and lavender-like notes in the nose, bright citrus, stone fruits, and mineral characters, particularly if the grapes were sourced from seaside vineyards. Vermentino also seems to be able to retain its natural acidity even in relatively warm areas. And on occasion winemakers use various winemaking techniques such as skin contact, lees contact, and barrel aging to create a Vermentino whose weight and aromatics can be compared to that of Viognier.

During our Lodi tour, we sampled four Lodi Vermentino wines that shared these Mediterranean characteristics -- particularly the bright citrus, racy acidity, and salty minerality. At face value, this may not seem surprising since the Lodi AVA is described as a Mediterranean climate region. But similar terrior doesn't necessarily translate into equivalent wines; variations in sunlight, rainfall, and soil obviously cause distinctions. And even if one condition is similar -- like soil -- it is "physically impossibility for vines to uptake the taste of minerals through their root systems" (2).  Yet what makes Lodi so conducive to Vermentino that over fifteen years ago Napa-based Uvaggio Winery planted it in several Lodi sub-AVAs (3).

It appears that the combination of abundant sunshine and similar soil composition lays the foundation and viticulture practices round out the profile. Two of the four Lodi wines derive from Delu Vineyard in the Alta Mesa AVA known for its nutrient depleted soils comprised of sandy loam, clay, and strata of decomposed granite - somewhat similar to Sardinia. And according to John Gash of PRIE Winery, "This particular vineyard is located along a small wooded creek providing a small micro-climate allowing the vineyard to stay a couple degrees cooler in the summer. In addition to the creek, the vineyard has a small valley that traps the cool delta nights."

The other two derive from the Mokelumne River AVA where the sandy soils also provide plenty of their own mineral character. Wineries can also capture a minerally taste by harvesting early at higher acidity and lower fruit profiles - this allows the "sensation of minerality to push through in subsequent wines".  Here's Peltier winemaker Susana Rodriquez Vasquez: "to preserve those subtle qualities, we ferment the wine in small stainless steel tanks, and we pick early enough to get the right acidity and keep the alcohol low. The wine sees no oak, and we get it into the bottle early to keep its freshness and elegance."

Our group had specific thoughts of each wine and each should be available through the Lodi Wine Store. Cheers.

Todd Godbout - WineCompass on the Peltier Winery & Vineyards 2017 Black Diamond - Vermentino ($18)
Before tasting this estate wine I couldn't really recall an American Vermentino wine that matched an Italian Vermentino in terms of acidity and minerality. The citrus profile blends with the salinity and almond body for a light and delicious wine.

Debbie Gioquindo CSW, WLS - Hudson Valley Wine Goddess on the m2 wines 2018 m2 Lodi - Mokelumne River Vermentino
Vermentino is not a grape let alone wine you see often grown stateside. You recognize it as an Italian variety and expect the wine to be a product of Italy. In Lodi, California they are growing Vermentino and M2 Wines makes a nice crisp, clean Vermentino with bright acidity. You’ll find it hints of pear and citrus, predominantly lemon-lime, with mandarin orange on the finish. A great wine to celebrate Spring!

Luiz Alberto - #winelover on the Prie Winery 2017 Delu Vineyards Vermentino ($21)
"The Prie Vineyards Vermentino was one of the “great whites” discovered during my recent visit to Lodi. Lots of citrus fruit and minerality in a ballerina body. In a blind tasting, it would be hard not to think that it was from a vineyard with a view of the Mediterranean… You know, those wines that you can taste the saltiness of the sea and feel a light breeze on your face."

Michelle Williams - Rockin Red Blog on the Fields Family Wines 2017 Delu Vineyard Vermentino ($21)
"Not surprising, this Mediterranean grape has found a home in Lodi, and, in my opinion, Ryan Sherman, winemaker at Fields Family Wines, is knocking it out of the park. In a blind tasting, the 2017 Fields Family Wines Vermentino Dula Vineyard ($21), was paired against one of Corsica's best - 2017 Yves Leccia Patrimonio Blanc ($42). The tasting stumped five wine writers, leaving us unable to determine Lodi versus old world Vermentino - one of many examples of how Lodi wines deliver high quality at value prices."


(1) Lodi’s ingenioso Vermentino & Moscato
(2) Peltier leads the way with Lodi grown Vermentino and Sauvignon Blanc
(3) Uvaggio Vermentino

The State of the Rhone Nation

Last month the Rhone Rangers presented a seminar on the State of the Rhone Nation at City Winery in Washington D.C. The seminar was moderated by local wine writer Dave McIntyre and featured seven prominent American wine growers who specialize in Rhone grape varieties. The Rangers mission is to promote American Rhone varietal wines, specifically, those that include "75% of one of the twenty-two traditional Rhone grape varieties as approved by the French government for the wines of the Cotes du Rhone". The non-profit consists of over 100 winery members with the majority located in the Paso Robles AVA, followed by Sonoma County, Santa Barbara County, and the Lodi AVA. Other regions represented in the seminar and the associated trade-consumers tastings were Monterey County, Santa Lucia Highlands, El Dorado AVA, and the Monticello AVA in Virginia. This latter region was represented by Horton Vineyards where the late Dennis Horton planted Rhone grape varieties back in the late 1980s. And here are the Rhone-inspired backgrounds for each of the wineries that participated in the seminar.

Halter Ranch Vineyard: 2017 Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles ($28)
The property encompassing Halter Ranch Vineyard was first settled in the 1880s with the present estate vineyards established in 1994. Over the years the estate has expanding to include 17 grape varieties with 40% of the estate planted with Rhone varieties. The elevation, excellent water drainage, sun exposure, and limestone-rich soils of the Westside Adelaida District helps create a juicy, fresh, and aromatic Grenache Blanc.

Horton Vineyards 2016 Viognier ($20)
In the 1980s Dennis Horton traveled to the Rhone valley where he realized that the thick skin and loose clusters of Viognier would be perfect for the Virginia climate. Twenty-five years later this insight proved accurate as the Virginia Wine Board established Viognier as the signature grape of the Commonwealth. Horton has continued to be a consistent and reliable producer of Viognier showcasing the old warm charm of stone fruit and balanced acidity.

Tercero Wines 2018 Tercero Mourvèdre Rosé, Santa Barbara County ($30)
Larry Schaffer is proving that Rhone grape varieties can excel in Santa Barbara County mostly grown in the Santa Ynez Valley AVA, Ballard Canyon AVA, Los Olivos District AVA, or the Los Alamos Valley. Each region provides a distinct micro-climate and soil type enabling the disperse planting based on ripening time and soil conditions. This Mourvèdre Rosé is a great example as it is a blend of different vineyard plots and shows a tropical aroma, strawberries and light cherries, and a persistent finish.

Two Shepherds Wine 2017 Two Shepherds Wine Cinsault ($20)
In general, William Allen sources his passion for Rhone varieties from Sonoma's Russian River Valley but in this case, he has access to the oldest surviving Cinsault Vineyard in the world -- the famed 135-year-old Bechthold Vineyard in Lodi. This vineyard still produces excellent fruit as modern sustainable vineyard practices have increased the health and vigor of grape clusters. This Cinsault differs slightly from the several single varietal wines produced by other wineries as Allen utilized minimal wine-making techniques such as native yeast, no additions other than minimal S02, neutral barrel fermentation and aging, whole cluster pressing, and unfined & unfiltered production. The result: a delicious wine with a candied cherry aroma, light and tart cranberries, and fresh acidity

Tablas Creek Vineyard 2016 Tablas Creek Grenache, Paso Robles ($40)
Perhaps the Rhone Rangers owes their actual existence to the pioneering work of Tablas Creek after Robert Haas established a friendship with the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel and later established the winery in 1989. Clones and rootstocks were imported from the famed Rhone estate and after a USDA-mandated three-year quarantine the Tablas Creek estate was planted. These and other newly imported clones have spread to help establish other Rhone dominated vineyards such as Lodi's Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards. This Grenache is back after a few years hiatus and shows the old world character of soft fruit, spiciness, depth, texture, and chewy tannins.

Ridge Vineyards 2015 Ridge Red-Blend, Sonoma ($36) - 54% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 16% Mataro
In 1991 the Lytton Springs vineyard formally became part of the Ridge family when the winery acquired the property because of its acclaimed Zinfandel fame. As a collateral benefit, this Dry Creek Valley estate is also a suitable host for Rhone varieties such as Syrah, Grenache, and Mataro - the Californian name for Mourvèdre. And these Lytton Springs Rhone wines are known for their barnyard, leather, and tobacco characters.

J. Lohr Winery 2016 J. Lohr Syrah (South Ridge) Paso Robles ($15)
When Jerry Lohr decided to enter the wine industry, he searched the best sites in California to produce Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet and settled on Paso Robles to plant his Cabernet vines. Like Halter Ranch's experience, the vines benefit from elevation, excellent water drainage, sun exposure, limestone-rich soils, and the dramatic diurnal swings of  50-degrees. These conditions are also conducive to Syrah which are grown in the estate's South Ridge -- a large vineyard encompasses the warmer Estrella and San Miguel districts as well as the cooler Creston, Adelaida, and Willow Creek districts.  The grapes are sourced equally from these two warm-cold groups which according to current CEO Steve Lohr "the warmer areas tend toward black tea and camphor while the cooler districts provide aromatic white pepper and blue fruit notes.  An excellent wine - and value.

Lodi Wine: Albarino Ascending

"When I first tasting Albarino, I became very excited about this grape and knew we had to grow it", Steve Felten, Owner\President Klinker Brick Winery

As a result in 2013, Felten regrafted 10 acres of under-performing Chardonnay in Ted's Vineyard (alongside Alpine Road) with the Rias Baixas clone. In this regard, he leveraged the earlier work of Markus Bokisch who first planted Albarino in Lodi Wine country back in 1999 and provided the vines to Felten. Today there are still only a handful of Lodi wineries producing Albarino, but the grape's potential is clear. Our Snooth group recognized this potential the very first evening during a dinner at Oak Farm Vineyard after sampling the Klinker Brick Winery 2018 Lodi - Mokelumne River Albarino ($15) and the Mettler Family Vineyards 2017 Estate Albarino ($20). Both of these wines were very reminiscent of their Spanish contemporaries.

Albarino is the signature grape of the Rías Baixas Denominación de Origen (DO) wine zone in the Galicia region of northwest Spain. It is the Irish region of Spain based on its past Celtic heritage, proximity to the ocean, and abundant rainfall which provides lush landscapes. Mists and fogs cool the region further and vines are planted on pérgola trellising systems that are up to seven feet high allowing breezes to flow through to prevent mildew. This coolness helps the grapes retain acidity but despite the rainfall, Rías Baixas is blessed with abundant sunshine. The soils are primarily mineral based granite with lesser amounts of alluvial and colluvial soil (clay, silt, sand, and gravel) deposited from the region's many rivers and tributaries.

Rías Baixas wines are characterized by their intense aromatics, minerality, and crisp acidity however there can be noticeable diversity within and between the region's five sub-zones. In most instances, green apples are the dominant fruit, but one can often ascertain apricots and peaches or more tropical notes from warmer sub-zones located further from the ocean.

The Klinker Brick and Mettler Albarinos both share the classic Rías Baixas style as did the Bokisch Vineyards 2017 Clement Hills Terra Alta Vineyard Albarino ($20). These wines are characterized by a pronounced floral aroma; green apples and citrus; noticeable minerality; and racy acids. In fact, during a blind tasting of new vs old world white wines, the Bokisch TAV Albarino tasted closer to Rias Baixas than the Palacio de Fefinanes Albarino de Fefinanes which had appreciable new world qualities such as intense stone fruits and shades of honey. This perception was most likely the result of the Lodi wines' distinct minerality which Felton attributes to the dense sandy loam near the Mokelumne River. And in the case of the Bokisch TAV Albarino, the Clement Hills soil closely mimics those in Rias Baixas where volcanic, gravelly, clay loam washed down from the Sierra Foothills.  Jorja Lerner, co-owner of Harney Lane Winery, also attributes Lodi Albarino's resemblance to Rias Baixas to the "temperature shifts contributed to the Carquinez Strait which brings a bit of the coast all the way to Lodi, essentially warm days and cool evenings".

But not all Lodi Albarino meets this steely - green apple & citrus - highly acidic style. For instance, the Bokisch 2017 La Cerezas Vineyard Lodi - Mokelumne River Albarino ($23) more closely resembles the warmer Rias Baixas sub-zones of Condado do Tea and Ribera do Ulla where fleshy tropical notes develop. And the Harney Lane Winery 2018 Lodi Albarino ($20) more closely resembles the Palacio de Fefinanes with it's enhanced stone fruit profile. Lerner explains: "When we started making Albarino, we strove for the higher acidity, steelier version of the variety which we felt was truer to Spanish style Albarinos. We have found over the years, though, that we can capture a bit more of the fruit component in the wine while still maintaining a dry finish that is slightly softer in acidity. Consumers have shown to love this approach!"

It is clear that the Lodi wine industry is ready to escape from its dependence on marketing solely old-vine Zinfandel. There are several white grape varieties ready to be recognized, with Albarino squarely poised to lead the group.

Malbec World Day with the Hess Collection, Colomé, & Amalaya

"Malbec World Day" or "Malbec Mondo" as English speakers prefer to say is celebrated on April 17 to commemorate the day back in 1853 when Argentina's President Domingo Faustino Sarmiento officially made it his mission to transform Argentina's wine industry.  He asked Michel Aime Pouget, a French soil expert, to bring over new vines from France and amongst Pouget's selection, was Malbec.  In the following years, the Malbec varietal flourished in Argentina's dry, and sunny weather, particularly at high elevations.  Today, Malbec is Argentina's star varietal.

Here we are for Malbec World Day 2019 and I received a trio of Malbec samples from the Hess Collection portfolio, specifically from Bodega Colomé and Bodega Amalaya. The wines are produced in the Calchaquí Valley in Salta, Argentina. The valley has altitude - from 5,500 ft to over 10,000 ft above sea level - making it one of the highest viticulture regions in the world. This high altitude provides intense daytime sunlight and cool nights that help better retain the acidity and concentrated fruit characteristics of the grapes.

Bodega Colomé is one of the oldest working wineries in Argentina and home to the highest vineyards in the world in Salta's Calchaquí Valley. The winery was established in 1831 when the vineyards were first planted on original rootstock imported from Bordeaux -- and these vines are still bearing fruit today.

Bodega Amalaya wines began as an experiment at Bodega Colomé in order to find alternative sourcing and varieties for Malbec and Torrontés blends. Donald Hess instructed his researchers to seek an area where no vines had ever been planted the workers labeled the quest using the Inca expression Amalaya meaning 'Hope for a Miracle'.

Amalaya Malbec 2017 ($16)
This is a fresh and fruit forward blend of 85% Malbec, 10% Tannat, and 5% Petit Verdot that will be gone before you realize.

Colome Autentico Malbec 2017 ($30)
The ‘Authentico’ Malbec is made from 100-year-old Malbec vines planted at over 7,000 feet. It is a textured and plush wine with dark intense fruit, both chocolate and vanilla, with a long silky finish.  This is an elegant wine with power.

Colome Estate Malbec 2016 ($25)
The fruit for this wine derives from the  Colome Estate vineyard as well as from the El Arenal, La Brava and Altura Maxima vineyards. It comes across with more dark fruit blackberries with bits of earthiness, tobacco, and spices. It also has more of a tannic structure providing enhanced aging potential. If only I had the patience.

Lodi Wine: Old Vine Zinfandel & Ancient Vineyards

Marian's Vineyard at
Mohr Fry Ranches

Lodi is the "self-proclaimed Zinfandel Capital of the World" producing over 40 percent of California’s premium Zinfandel, with the vast majority of it grown in the Mokelumne River AVA. But to paraphrase a favorite song, " well...how did it get there"? According to Zinfandel: A History of a Grape and Its Wines, brothers George and William West had added Zinfandel to their Stockton based El Pinal Winery by at least the 1860s. In 1889, German-born Joseph Spenker planted a vineyard, most likely from cuttings from El Pinal, that consisted of Zinfandel, Carignan, Mission, and Tokay -- the later a Vitis vinifera table grape that closely resembles the gnarled look of the Zinfandel vine. This plot is still farmed today by Spenker's ancestors (Wanda Woock Bechthold and her son Greg Burns) in the Royal Tee Vineyard of Jessie's Grove Winery and is Lodi's oldest Zinfandel-dominated planting.  By the way, the oldest continually planted vineyard in Lodi was also planted by Spenker a few years earlier, in 1885, and is the famed Cinsault dominated Bechthold Vineyard.

Lizzy James Vineyard

Other historic vineyards, planted in the early 20th century, are Marian's Vineyard at Mohr Fry Ranches, Lizzy James Vineyard owned by Harney Lane Winery, and Soucie Vineyard. The 225 acre Mohr Fry Ranches contains nine distinct blocks of own-rooted Old Vine Zinfandel. The ranch is currently farmed by the father-son team of Jerry and Bruce Fry, whose family has been farming in California for over 150 years. Jerry named the oldest Zinfandel block, 8.3 acres of own-rooted vineyard planted in 1901, Marian's Vineyard after his mother Marian Mohr Fry Zimmerman.  The Lizzy James Vineyard is a 20-acre plot of gnarly Zinfandel vines first planted in 1904. It is named after Lizzy and James, the children of proprietors Jorja (Mettler) and Kyle Lerner, after the Mettler family purchased the vineyard in 2005. And, in 1916 Edward Soucie, Sr. planted own-rooted Zinfandel on Lodi’s far west side which is today owned and managed by fifth-generation Lodi native Kevin Soucie.

Michael Klouda at
Bechthold Vineyard

A logical question regarding these ancient vines is "do their yields deteriorate drastically over time"? Michael Klouda, vineyard manager at Michael David Winery and winemaker at Michael Klouda Wines agrees that this does occur occasionally and individual vines must be replaced periodically. But in general, modern sustainable vineyard practices have increased the health and vigor of grape clusters. Kyle Lerner mentioned a similar opinion when discussing the restoration project at Lizzy James Vineyard and the necessity of resuscitating a number of unhealthy vines.

Geographically these ancient vineyards share a common planting within the Mokelumne River AVA and are often own-rooted -- even when the St. George rootstock was available. This was possible since the sandy soils along the river are a deterrent to the phylloxera louse -- although the soils do not eliminate the threat completely -- it's just more manageable. The Mokelumne River location has remained conducive to Zin, as currently 99% of Lodi’s Zinfandel plantings are concentrated in this AVA.

That being said, there is also an east-west dimension to the soils within the Mokelumne River AVA that leads to a dichotomy in the wine styles. On the east side of Lodi (or east of Highway 99) the soil is sandier and deeper and can be described as more of a loamy sand than sandy loam; whereas west of Hwy. 99 the vineyards are sandy loam with generous amounts of finely crushed granite washed down from the Sierra Nevadas. In addition, the east side contains lower water tables which along with the sandier soils equate to smaller berries and clusters.  According to Randy Caparoso:

"...this means higher skin to juice ratios as well as earlier ripening; and both factors can result in lower pH, higher total acidity as well as increased phenolic content (the color, tannin as well as aromatic compounds of wines are derived from grape phenols and polyphenols). In plainer English, this means brighter, crisply balanced white wines, and darker, firmer, zestier, flavorful red wines. The opposite – larger clusters and berries – means lighter colored, softer, rounder, less aggressively flavored wines". 

Mokelumne River Zinfandel

During our visit, we experienced this dichotomy in practice during a blind tasting of East vs West Zinfandel.  For instance, the west side M2 Wines Soucie Vineyard Lodi Native Zinfandel, the Maley Brothers Vineyards Lodi Native Wegat Vineyard Zinfandel, and the Harney Lane Scottsville Vineyard Zinfandel share characteristics of earthiness, mushrooms, and a softer structure. Wines made from Mohr Fry Ranches' grapes also possess these classic westside traits. In contrast, eastside Zins such as the McCay Cellars Lot 13 Lodi Native Zinfandel, Fields Family Stampede Vineyard Zinfandel, and Ironstone Vineyards Rous Vineyard Reserve Ancient Vine Zinfandel share characters of a brighter cherry flavor, black tea, zestiness, and structured tannins. The Harney Lane Lizzy James Vineyard Zinfandels also fit these descriptors. These and other excellent  Mokelumne River Zinfandel we sampled were clear indicators of how the grape variety excels in Lodi.

Cheers to old-vine and ancient Lodi Zinfandel and please note that this post was heavily influenced by Randy Caparoso and his Lodi Wine Blog and special thanks to the Lodi Winegrape Commission and Snooth.

Wines of Navarra, the Camino de Santiago, and French Grape Varieties

The Camino de Santiago (the Way of St. James) is a large network of ancient pilgrim routes stretching across Europe and concluding at the shrine of St. James the Apostle in Santiago de Compostela in the Spanish province of Galicia. The pilgrimages started very shortly after the believed discovery of the tomb of the Patron Saint of Spain in 814. There are two competing claims regarding James evangelization of the Iberian Peninsula with one, based on the Epistle to the Romans where St. Paul suggests a disciple hadn't visited Spain and the alternative, that after James was martyred in AD 44 his remains were transported back to the land that he had in fact evangelized.

Regardless, pilgrims flocked to the site using the Camino de Santiago and Wines of Navarra website, "in 1234 the first of a succession of French monarchs ascended by marriage to the throne of the Kingdom of Navarra, ushering in over three centuries of cultural flowering still evidenced today by the beautiful and well-worn vestiges of the region’s late Romanesque and high Gothic architectural ambition". As a result of these events, French pilgrims and Monarchs desired French wines so that French grape varieties were planted in the province.

by the "12th century the Camino emerged as a highly organized international phenomenon". Soon afterward continues the

These Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Garnacha (Grenache), and Chardonnay vines remained planted among local Tempranillo and Viura vines through throughout the centuries. According to Wine-Searcher.com, "In 1933 the regional Navarra DO was created and its geography is diverse with a number of different features that affect the region's vines and climate. Its proximity to the Bay of Biscay (Atlantic Ocean) in the northwest, the Pyrenees in the northeast and the Ebro River all combine to moderate temperatures created by the effects of the Mediterranean climate.

Because of this diversity, five sub-zones were created: Baja Montana in the northeast, Valdizarbe in the north, Tierra Estella in the northeast, Ribera Alta in the center, north of the Ebro, and Ribera Baja in the south below the river. A small section of Navarra is classified as Rioja DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada)".

Recently I received three wine samples that reflect the abundance of French grape varieties but also the history and geography of the region.

Bodegas Castillo de Monjardin Pinot Noir 2017 ($12)
Castillo de Monjardin is located in the foothills of the Pyrenées not far from the French border and literally part of the Camino de Santiago as the Castle of Monjardin is a populate hike. The Castle's heritage peaked in the 12th Century but grape growing continued dominated by Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Garnacha, and Pinot Noir. Bodegas Castillo de Monjardín operates a family estate of 220 Ha of vineyards that aged were planted 15, 30 and 70 years ago. These Tierra Estella situated and Atlantic influenced vineyards reside on sunny slopes at an average altitude of 1800 feet and are cooled by the "Cierzo" wind -- "a strong, dry and usually cold wind that blows from the North or Northwest through the regions of Aragon, La Rioja, and Navarra". This Pinot Noir is made from grapes harvested from the high altitude and 30-year-old "El Cerezo" vineyard and aged 6 months in oak barriques after fermentation. This process provides slight vanilla and toastiness which are subtle compared to the soft earthy tones and dusty finish. Excellent.

Bodegas Ochoa Calendas Viura Chardonnay 2018 ($12) - Adriana Ochoa winemaker; Ribera Alta
Although the current Bodegas Ochoa operation has "only" been in an operation since 1845, the winery possesses an invoice from 1370 where the residing King requested wine from an Ochoa brand. Not only was its location in Olite, the summer residence of royalty in medieval times but it is also situated in the heart of Navarra in Ribera Alta. This is a continental climate bordered by Atlantic and Mediterranean influences, thus warmer with less rainfall than Tierra Estella, but cooler than the Mediterranean climate to the south. The current winemaker is Adriana Ochoa -- the 6th generation of family members to produce wine. She crafted this 50-50 blend to showcase the liveliness of the Viura and the structure of the Chardonnay. It is delicious.

Bodegas Inurrieta Cuatrocientos 2016 ($18)
Bodega Inurrieta is also a family-owned company and located in Ribera Alta, but with a little more Mediterranean influences. The name Inurrieta pays tribute to the family name Antoñana and refers to the land where their family grew vines almost sixty years ago. This is a recent endeavor, with the first vines planted in 1999. This Crianza wine is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Syrah, and 5% Graciano. After fermentation, the blended wine was aged 14 months in French Allier and American oak barrels. The result is a structured wine, medium to full-bodied with noticeable but approachable tannins.

Alternative Packaging from Argentina's Santa Julia

Who's been looking for wine distributed in alternative packaging to bring along during hiking, cycling, boating, or fishing trips? I know I have. And I recently received a strong contender from Winesellers Ltd. a trio of wines packaged in 375ml cans (SRP $5.99).  The wines are produced by Santa Julia, an Argentine brand that leverages their Mendoza location. The winery practices certified organic vineyard management, thus two of these wines are labeled Organic. The Organic Chardonnay provides a classic unoaked Chardonnay flavor; very refreshing with subtle depth and sufficient acidity. The Organic Malbec Rosé behaves again as expected, refreshing with layers of strawberries. However, the red Tintillo is the most interesting as the 50-50 blend of Malbec and Bonarda is fermented using carbonic maceration -- a process where the grapes are fermented intact order to achieve a fruitier wine. It's also designed to drink chilled,  or mildly so in my opinion. A fun wine.

Disclosure: We received samples from Santa Julia in order to share our opinion about their products, but this isn’t a sponsored post.

Lodi Wine: The Basics

Last week I spent four days exploring Lodi California with Snooth and witnessed the unique wine culture that reflects this region. Over the next couple of months expect regular Monday posts describing this culture.  But today I want to highlight the region's significance so here are a few basic facts available from the Lodi Winegrape Commission.

Relevance
The Lodi Appellation (American Viticulture Area) is the most prolific in California and accounts for 20% of all wine grapes crushed in the Golden State. According to the Lodi Winegrape Commission, "there are more acres of wine grapes planted in Lodi than all of Napa Valley and Sonoma County combined; in fact, more than the entire states of Washington and Oregon together, plus another 30%". Thus, Lodi is arguably the most widely planted wine region in the entire U.S. and why the region is relevant to wine consumers.

Geography
The Lodi AVA is located between the San Francisco Bay and the Sierra Nevada Mountains on relatively flat terrain. It enjoys a classic Mediterranean climate with warm days and cool evenings -- particularly when the "delta breezes" move in from the San Joaquin/Sacramento River Delta. Lodi's soils were formed millenniums ago as erosion from the Sierra Nevada mountain range were carried to the valley via the Mokelumne and Cosumnes rivers. In addition,  the land adjacent to the Mokelumne River contain layers of sandy soils where Zinfandel vines were planted own-rooted a century ago. In the east, the closer vineyards are planted to the mountains, the soil becomes heavier in clay and stone.

History
Lodi was heavily influenced by the California Gold Rush of 1849 as miners looked for farmland as an alternative to failed mining operations. Wine grapes were first planted in 1850 and in 1858 George West founded El Pinal Winery to become the region’s first commercial operation. Soon after several German families immigrated to the region from the Dakotas and their descendants are still growing grapes today - sometimes as 5th and 6th generation farmers. Along the way, Prohibition did not destroy the industry like in so many other regions as Lodi growers shipped grapes eastward for home winemakers (which was still perfectly legal). Post-Prohibition, wineries rebounded with old-vine Zinfandel becoming Lodi's unofficial signature grape.

Appellation
The Lodi AVA was created in 1986 and is located in the counties of Sacramento and San Joaquin. (TTB). In August 2006, seven new AVAs were created within the broader Lodi AVA to allow wineries to differentiate among the geographic and climate variances: Alta Mesa * Borden Ranch * Clements Hills * Cosumnes River * Jahant * Mokelumne River * Sloughhouse. However, in general, Lodi winemakers continue to utilize the broader Lodi AVA designation on their labels in order to leverage and market the Lodi name.

Grape Varieties
Lodi is predominately a red winegrowing region, with approximately two-thirds of the acreage dedicated to red grape varieties. In fact, Lodi is the "self-proclaimed Zinfandel Capital of the World" producing over 40 percent of California’s premium Zinfandel. And these are old-vine zinfandel with the oldest plantings dating back to 1888. More recently, however, Cabernet Sauvignon has overtaken Zin as the most widely harvested grape -- with many going into the bulk wine industry. Yet, the real story is Lodi's grape diversity with over 100 varieties crushed into wine with half of these German-Austrian varieties planted by Mokelumne Glen Vineyards.  Other notable grapes we will cover are the Spanish grapes Albariño, Verdejo, Graciano, Tempranillo, and Garnacha; the Italian grapes Barbera, Aglianco, Sangiovese, Teroldego, Fiano, and Vermentino; and the southern Rhone grapes Cinsault, Viognier, Syrah, Picpoul Blanc, and Clairette Blanc.

You can follow the Lodi Wine story here.  Cheers.

Dos Spanish Rosado Wines for Spring

"In the 3rd Century BC the region of Rioja was inhabited by the Berones, a warrior people from Celtic origin whose populations reached from the Cantabria mountains in the North to the Demanda mountain range in the South. This warlike population, also dedicated to agriculture, livestock, pottery, and metallurgy named this area Beronia."

Beronia Winery was named to honor this heritage and is located in the Rioja Alta subregion of the famous DOCa Rioja. This subregion shares similar characteristics as its two other subregion siblings (Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental - formerly Rioja Baja) -- like abundant sunshine. Rioja Alta is the highest region and enjoys a larger diurnal temperature leading to acid retention and longer maturation periods. CVNE is another winery located in Rioja Alta (with additional vineyards in Rioja Alavesa) and is currently celebrating its 140th year anniversary. In fact, the winery is still controlled by the direct descendants of the founding family. Recently I received samples of Spanish Rosados from each winery.


Beronia Rose 2018 ($13)
This winery is part of the Gonzalez Byass portfolio and is a blend of 55% Garnacha and 45% Tempranillo. The Beronia estate consists of 25 hectares of vines and the vineyard team also controls 870 hectares of specially selected vineyards situated within a 10km radius of the winery, maintaining the Rioja Alta terrior. The wine is soft with velvety cherries and strawberries, depth, and plenty of lifting acids. Major finesse.

CVNE Rosado 2018 ($13)
This darker colored rosé consists of 100% Tempranillo and is a deeper and richer wine. Because CVNE controls vineyards in both Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa the grapes are potentially influenced by the Atlantic and Mediterranean climates. On the one hand, this means moderating influences, on the other hand, warmer and sunnier. This wine is much fuller with textured dark cherries and some stone fruits. And like the previous wine, expect abundant acids. Cheers.

Brewers Association Reveals the 50 Fastest Growing U.S. Craft Breweries of 2018

The Brewers Association released its second annual list of the 50 fastest growing small and independent craft brewing companies of 2018. "These small and independent craft breweries from 27 states registered a median growth of 163 percent in 2018 and included 13 brewpubs, 35 microbreweries, and two regional craft breweries".

"Even as market competition continues to increase, these small and independent breweries and brewpubs demonstrate there are still growth opportunities across a diverse set of regions and business models," said Bart Watson, chief economist, Brewers Association. And the list is rather representative of all geographic regions.

1. Lake Time Brewery, Clear Lake Iowa
2. Big Oyster Brewery, Lewes Delaware
3. Oak Road Brewery, Summerville South Carolina
4. The Dreamchaser’s Brewery, Waxhaw North Carolina
5. Shattered Oak Brewing, Oregon City Oregon

Methodology: The list presented includes only small and independent breweries. Growth is measured based on production at their own facilities. Breweries must have opened by December 31, 2016, or earlier to be considered. It only includes breweries that reported 2018 production to the Brewers Association’s annual Beer Industry Production Survey; breweries with staff estimates or data from state excise tax reports were not considered. Breweries also needed a validated production figure for 2017, either via the production survey, or state excise tax data.

A comprehensive State of the Industry report will be delivered during the 2019 Craft Brewers Conference® & BrewExpo America®, held from April 8-11 in Denver, Colorado. The association’s full 2018 industry analysis, which shows regional trends and sales by individual breweries, will be published in the May/June issue of The New Brewer, available in May 2019.

1 An American craft brewer is a small and independent brewer. Small: Annual production of 6 million barrels of beer or less (approximately 3 percent of U.S. annual sales). Beer production is attributed to the rules of alternating proprietorships. Independent: Less than 25 percent of the craft brewery is owned or controlled (or equivalent economic interest) by an alcoholic beverage industry member that is not itself a craft brewer. Brewer: Has a TTB Brewer’s Notice and makes beer.

Contact: Abby Cohen (on behalf of the Brewers Association) abby@rosengrouppr.com, 646-695-7044

Kin & Cascadia Showcase the Columbia and Willamette Valleys

Winesellers Ltd., the family-owned global importer, recently expanded their portfolio into the Pacific Northwest by creating the Kin & Cascadia brand. The initial two offerings are a Cabernet Sauvignon from Washington's Columbia Valley and a Pinot Noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley -- both arguably the premier wine regions in their respective states. Each is priced close to $15 providing excellent value.  Finally, don't you love the contrasting bottle styles reflecting Bordeaux and Burgundy? Cheers.







2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, Washington State ($15)
The grapes are sourced from vineyard sites in the Wahluke Slope AVA located near the edge of Red Mountain. The region is one of the driest, warmest climates in the state, perfect for Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyards are composed of sandy and alluvial soils with vine shoots on original roots as phylloxera has never been in Washington State.  For the price, this is a very complex effort, depth, spices, and chewy tannins.

2017 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon ($15)
The Willamette Valley runs approximately from Portland in the north to Eugene in the South and these grapes were sourced from different locations along the valley. Some were grown on the rich alluvial soils on the valley floor whereas others on the volcanic-sedimentary soils of the hillsides.  The result is a smooth and friendly wine with candied cherries transitioning to an approachable finish with easy tannins.

2019 SAVOR: An American Craft Beer & Food Experience

This year, the Brewers Association is hosting their annual SAVOR: An American Craft Beer & Food Experience Friday, May 17th in Washington D.C. -- as usual at the National Building Museum. This week the Beer & Food Menu pairings were released and they look quite delicious - particularly anything with Choptank oysters, Gruyere, or Rabbit Tamale. Looking forward to another great event tasting with old and new friends. from across the United States Cheers.




2ND SHIFT BREWING CO. St. Louis, MO
GRAPEVINES (BRETT BEER: MIXED-CULTURE)
Ricotta Gnocchi | English Peas| Chanterelles
MLÁDEK(STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Rice Pudding | Horchata | Churro

4 NOSES BREWING COMPANY Broomfield, CO
SOMETHING FRENCH (SOUR ALE: FRUITED)
Passionfruit Panna Cotta | Meringue
ZWICKY P (ZWICKEL PILSNER)
Corn Madeleine | Chicken Liver Mousse

ALLAGASH BREWING COMPANY Portland, ME
BARREL & BEAN (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG BEER)
Coffee & Chocolate Whoopie Pie
PICK YOUR OWN (FRUIT BEER: BELGIAN-STYLE)
Corn Madeleine | Chicken Liver Mousse

ATLAS BREW WORKS Washington, D.C.
BLOOD ORANGE GOSE (GOSE: CONTEMPORARY)
Choptank Oysters
NINJA SAUCE (PALE ALE: BELGIAN-STYLE)
Choptank Oysters

BEAR REPUBLIC BREWING CO. Cloverdale, CA
OLD BABA YAGA (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Coffee Crème Brûlée
SONOMA TART (SOUR ALE: FRUITED AMERICAN-STYLE)
Chocolate Coconut Macaroon

BELL'S BREWERY Galesburg, MI
LARRY'S LATEST FLAMINGO FRUIT FIGHT (FRUIT BEER: WHEAT)
Bahn Mi Meatball | Toast | Herb Salad
THIRD COAST OLD ALE (BARLEY WINE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Pork Rib | Honey & Pecan Glaze

BOSTON BEER COMPANY Boston, MA
BLACK HARBOR STOUT (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Bread Pudding | Smoked Oyster
MANGO GUAVA IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Chicken Laab | Thai Herbs

BOULEVARD BREWING COMPANY Kansas City, MO
RYE ON RYE 6 (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG BEER)
Country Style Terrine | Plum Mustard
SAISON BRETT (SAISON: SPECIALTY)
Boudin Blanc | Crispy Potato | Mustard

BREWDOG BREWING COMPANY Canal Winchester, OH
ELVIS JUICE (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Peanut Butter Toast | Banana Brulee
JET BLACK HEART (STOUT: OATMEAL)
Hand Pie | Braised Beef Bourguignon

THE BREWER'S TABLE Austin, TX
MADE IN THE NIGHTSHADE (FIELD BEER)
Redfish | Creole Fried Green Tomato | Rouille
VOR ORT (LAGER: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Falafel | Chive Yogurt | Harissa

BREWERY OMMEGANG Cooperstown, NY
BRUT IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Lobster Roll
PALE SOUR (SOUR ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Marinated Mussels | Saffron Escabeche

CALDERA BREWING COMPANY Ashland, OR
MOSAIC IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Redfish | Creole Fried Green Tomato | Rouille
MOTHER PUCKER RASPBERRY SOUR (SOUR ALE: FRUITED AMERICAN-STYLE)
Nathan Miller Chocolate

CAPE ANN BREWING COMPANY Gloucester, MA
COME HELLES OR HIGH WATER (HELLES: MUNICH-STYLE)
Malted Chicharron | Fennel Pollen | Whipped Lardo
SPRUCE TIP BIERE DE GARDE (BIERE DE GARDE: FRENCH-STYLE)
Bresaola Cone | Soft Herbs | Fresh Cherries

CAPE MAY BREWING CO. Cape May, NJ
ALWAYS READY (PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Spicy Green Papaya Salad
LADY IN ROOM #10 (SOUR ALE: FRUITED AMERICAN-STYLE)
Curry Squash Samosa

CHELUNA BREWING COMPANY Denver, CO
CHILANGO (CHILI BEER)
Masa Dumplings | Braised Chicken | Avocado
LOW RIDER LAGER AÑEJO (AGED BEER)
Lox | Buckwheat Crepe | Salmon Roe

CHURCH BREW WORKS Pittsburgh, PA
PIOUS MONK DUNKEL (DUNKEL: MUNICH-STYLE)
Beef Tataki | Furikake | Seaweed Salad
THUNDERHOP IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Chicken Satay | Pineapple | Peanuts

CIGAR CITY BREWING Tampa, FL
ACROSS THE ALLEY (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG STOUT)
Chocolate Coconut Macaroon
MARGARITA GOSE (GOSE: LEIPZIG-STYLE)
Masa Dumplings | Braised Chicken | Avocado

COUNTRY BOY BREWING Georgetown, KY
LIVING PROOF: OUD BRUIN (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED SOUR BEER)
Beef Tataki | Furikake | Seaweed Salad
PAPAW'S RED (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG BEER)
Gruyere Gougère | Caramelized Onion

CRANK ARM BREWING CO. Raleigh, NC
VALVE STEM (LAGER: VIENNA-STYLE)
Grilled Lamb | Peas | Mint | Feta | Pea Pesto
WHITEWALL WHEAT (AMERICAN-BELGO-STYLE ALE: PALE)
Cucumber Gazpacho | Cheese Crisp

CRAZY MOUNTAIN BREWERY Denver, CO
HORSESHOES & HAND GRENADES (BITTER: AMERICAN-STYLE EXTRA SPECIAL)
Cabbage Roll | Pheasant | Farro & Currants
LAWYERS, GUNS & MONEY (BARLEY WINE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Hamachi Crudo | Tomatillo | Cilantro

DAREDEVIL BREWING CO. Speedway, IN
FIRST NOEL OAK SMOKED BOCK (RAUCHBIER: BAMBERG-STYLE BOCK)
Pork Belly | Red Eye Glaze | Date Bread
RIP CORD DIPA (INDIA PALE ALE: IMPERIAL)
Falafel | Chive Yogurt | Harissa

DC BRAU Washington, D.C.
SMELLS LIKE FREEDOM (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Malted Chicharron | Fennel Pollen | Whipped Lardo
WAKE UP IN THE FUTURE (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Pork Belly | Red Eye Glaze | Date Bread

DESCHUTES BREWERY Bend, OR
BLACK MIRROR (BARLEY WINE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Blood Sausage | Eggplant | Golden Raisin
TEMPRANILLO FLANDERS (FLANDERS RED)
Bresaola Cone | Soft Herbs | Fresh Cherries

DOGFISH HEAD CRAFT BREWERY Milton, DE
AMERICAN BEAUTY (PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Rice Pudding | Horchata | Churro
SUPEREIGHT (GOSE: CONTEMPORARY)
Potsticker | Green Onion | Ginger | Lemongrass

DOUBLE NICKEL BREWING COMPANY Pennsauken, NJ
SUPER MEGA DANK 420 KUSH DADDY SUPREME (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Corn Hushpuppy | Pink Peppercorn Aioli
VIENNA LAGER (LAGER: VIENNA-STYLE)
Goat Cheese | Pistachio | Strawberry | White Balsamic

ESCAPE BREWING COMPANY Trinity, FL
FIVE FLAGS (PILSENER: GERMAN-STYLE)
Grilled Lamb | Peas | Mint | Feta | Pea Pesto
GOOFY FOOTED WHEAT ALE (WHEAT BEER WITHOUT YEAST: LIGHT AMERICAN)
Lox | Buckwheat Crepe | Salmon Roe

FERNSON BREWING COMPANY Sioux Falls, SD
CHAMPILS (PILSENER: CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN-STYLE)
Lox | Buckwheat Crepe | Salmon Roe
GALLIVANT (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Hot Chicken | Pickled Cabbage

FIRESTONE WALKER BREWING COMPANY Paso Robles, CA
UNDERCURRANTS (SOUR ALE: FRUITED AMERICAN-STYLE)
Curry Squash Samosa
XXII ANNIVERSARY ALE (BARLEY WINE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Corn Madeleine | Chicken Liver Mousse

FIVE BOROUGHS BREWING CO. Brooklyn, NY
PILSNER (PILSENER: BOHEMIAN-STYLE)
Hamachi Crudo | Tomatillo | Cilantro
TINY JUICY IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: SESSION)
Cheese Crêpe | Cranberry Almond Granola

FLORIDA AVENUE BREWING CO. Tampa, FL
BOAT BEER SEA SESSION ALE (EXPERIMENTAL BEER)
Seaweed & Crab Salad | Kombo | Cucumber
PASSION OF THE HEIGHTS (HERB AND SPICE BEER)
Goat Cheese | Pistachio | Strawberry | White Balsamic

FOOTHILLS BREWING Winston-Salem, NC
JADE IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Tuna Taco | Fried Red Onion | Garlic | Sesame
SEXUAL CHOCOLATE RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Rabbit Tamale | Black Mole

FOUR FATHERS BREWING Valparaiso, IN
BARREL-AGED WHEELHOUSE 2018 (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Red Hot Beef Sausage | Creamed Corn
JUDO NOT SUMO (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Chicken Laab | Thai Herbs

FREMONT BREWING Seattle, WA
B-BOMB COCONUT EDITION (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG BEER)
`Chocolate Coconut Macaroon
VIRTUE (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED SOUR BEER)
Blue Cheese Cake | Crispy Shallot | Rye

GEARHOUSE BREWING COMPANY Chambersburg, PA
NATHAN MILLER CHOCOLATE PORTER (CHOCOLATE BEER)
Nathan Miller Chocolate
SPIRAL HAM PROJECT VOL. 1: THE BELGIAN QUAD (QUADRUPEL: BELGIAN-STYLE)
Country Style Terrine | Plum Mustard

GNARLY BARLEY BREWINGHammond, LA
DDH JUCIFER IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Hamachi Crudo | Tomatillo | Cilantro
KOROVA MILK PORTER (PORTER: ROBUST)
Endive Panzanella | Sausage Vinaigrette | Rye Crouton

GOODLIFE BREWING CO. Bend, OR
DESCENDER IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Corn Madeleine | Chicken Liver Mousse
SWEET AS PACIFIC ALE (WHEAT BEER WITHOUT YEAST: LIGHT AMERICAN)
Cacio e Pepe Croquette

GREAT LAKES BREWING CO. Cleveland, OH
GREAT LAKES IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Goat Confit | Coriander & Burnt Orange BBQ
HOLY MOSES RASPBERRY (WITBIER: BELGIAN-STYLE)
Bresaola Cone | Soft Herbs | Fresh Cherries

GREAT RHYTHM BREWING COMPANY Portsmouth, NH
PERPETUAL GRÜVEN (KOELSCH: GERMAN-STYLE)
Redfish | Creole Fried Green Tomato | Rouille
TROPICAL HAZE (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Potsticker | Green Onion | Ginger | Lemongrass

HARDYWOOD PARK CRAFT BREWERY
Richmond, VA
BUT DOES IT MAKE SENSE
(INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY IMPERIAL OR DOUBLE)
Hot Chicken | Pickled Cabbage
FOOLERY
(STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Duck Prosciutto | Potato | Cherry

HOPEWELL BREWING COMPANY Chicago, IL
PER DIEM (PILSENER: CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN-STYLE)
Goat Confit | Coriander & Burnt Orange BBQ
STONETHROW (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED SOUR BEER: FRUITED)
Blue Cheese Cake | Crispy Shallot | Rye

HOPS & GRAIN BREWING Austin, TX
HAZE COUNTY (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY IMPERIAL OR DOUBLE)
Red Apron Charcuterie
VOLUMES OF FUNK: BERRIES (SOUR ALE: OTHER BELGIAN-STYLE)
Red Apron Charcuterie

IVANHOE PARK BREWING CO. Orlando, FL
SUCK IT, TREBEK (SOUR ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Choptank Oysters
TUPAC SHAPORTER (PORTER: BALTIC-STYLE)
Choptank Oysters

LA CUMBRE BREWING CO. Albuquerque, NM
SIBERIAN SILK (PORTER: BALTIC-STYLE)
Rabbit Tamale | Black Mole
SUN FADE (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Goat Cheese | Pistachio | Strawberry | White Balsamic

LAND-GRANT BREWING COMPANY Columbus, OH
HELIOS (PILSENER: GERMAN-STYLE)
Chicken Laab | Thai Herbs
THIRTEEN.ONE (GOSE: CONTEMPORARY)
Fried Rice Style Grains | Carrot | Cilantro | Black Garlic

LEGAL DRAFT BEER COMPANY Arlington, TX
FREE & CLEAR (GLUTEN-FREE BEER)
Masa Dumplings | Braised Chicken | Avocado
GINNED UP CHARGES (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG BEER)
Tuna Taco | Fried Red Onion | Garlic | Sesame

LIC BEER PROJECT Long Island City, NY
CODED TILES (PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Bahn Mi Meatball | Toast | Herb Salad
HIGHER BURNIN'(INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Shrimp & Grits

LICKINGHOLE CREEK CRAFT BREWERY Goochland, VA
NUGGET ON RYE (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG BEER)
Hand Pie | Braised Beef Bourguignon
REDNECK HIGH SOCIETY (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG BEER)
Malted Chicharron | Fennel Pollen | Whipped Lardo

LISTERMANN BREWING CO. Cincinnati, OH
NUTCASE RASPBERRY JAM (PORTER: PEANUT BUTTER W/ FRUIT)
Cheese Crêpe | Cranberry Almond Granola
TEAM FIONA (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Hot Chicken | Pickled Cabbage

LORD HOBO BREWING COMPANY Woburn, MA
GODMOTHER (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Potsticker | Green Onion | Ginger | Lemongrass
MUSEUM (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY IMPERIAL OR DOUBLE)
Tuna Taco | Fried Red Onion | Garlic | Sesame

THE LOST ABBEY San Marcos, CA
CITRUS SIN (WILD BEER)
Bresaola Cone | Soft Herbs | Fresh Cherries
ZINNERS AND SAINTS (SOUR ALE: OTHER BELGIAN-STYLE)
Cheese Crêpe | Cranberry Almond Granola

MADTREE BREWING COMPANY Cincinnati, OH
HAPPY AMBER (AMBER/RED ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Red Hot Beef Sausage | Creamed Corn
JOON (KOELSCH: GERMAN-STYLE)
Angel Food Cake | Macerated Berries | Lime Zest

MAINE BEER COMPANY Freeport, ME
WOODS & WATERS (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Marinated Mussels | Saffron Escabeche
ZOE (AMBER/RED ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Red Hot Beef Sausage | Creamed Corn

MONDAY NIGHT BREWING Atlanta, GA
PERVASIVE SPECIES (SOUR ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Grilled Lamb | Peas | Mint | Feta | Pea Shoots
SITUATIONAL ETHICS - MAPLE RUM BARREL AGED (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Coffee Crème Brûlée

MOTHER ROAD BREWING COMPANY Flagstaff, AZ
DAILY DRIVER LOW OCTANE IPA (SESSION BEER)
Ceviche | Calamari | Chili | Lime
LOST HIGHWAY DOUBLE BLACK IPA (BLACK ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Ricotta Gnocchi | English Peas| Chanterelles

NESHAMINY CREEK BREWING CO. Croydon, PA
MISADVENTURES & MISSTEPS (BELGIAN-STYLE GOLDEN STRONG)
Corn Hushpuppy | Pink Peppercorn Aioli
ZIEGEMEISTER MAIBOCK LAGER (BOCK: TRADITIONAL GERMAN-STYLE)
Red Hot Beef Sausage | Creamed Corn

NEW BELGIUM BREWING COMPANY Fort Collins, CO
MURAL (FRUIT BEER: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Corn Hushpuppy | Pink Peppercorn Aioli
VOODOO RANGER JUCIFER (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Curry Squash Samosa

NEW HOLLAND BREWING CO. Holland, MI
DRAGON'S MILK WHITE (EXPERIMENTAL BEER)
Coffee Crème Brûlée
KOMBUCHA IPA (EXPERIMENTAL BEER)
Beef Tataki | Furikake | Seaweed Salad

NEW REALM BREWING CO. Atlanta, GA
BELGA ROSE (FIELD BEER)
Angel Food Cake | Macerated Berries | Lime Zest
OAXACA CHOCA MEXICAN CHOCOLATE STOUT (CHOCOLATE BEER)
Rice Pudding | Horchata | Churro

NIGHT SHIFT BREWING Chelsea, MA
NITE LITE (LAGER: AMERICAN-STYLE LIGHT)
Shrimp & Grits
WHIRLPOOL (PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Gruyere Gougère | Caramelized Onion

NINKASI BREWING Eugene, OR
BRIGHTBERRY (GOSE: CONTEMPORARY)
Tuna Taco | Fried Red Onion | Garlic | Sesame
HAZY DOMINATION (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Cacio e Pepe Croquette

O.H.S.O. EATERY + NANOBREWERY Phoenix, AZ
89ALE (CALIFORNIA COMMON BEER)
Country Style Terrine | Plum Mustard
PEANUT BRITTLE BLONDE (FIELD BEER)
Chicken Satay | Pineapple | Peanuts

ODELL BREWING COMPANY Fort Collins, CO
MOUNTAIN STANDARD (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Deviled Egg | Arugula | Potato Chip
SIPPIN' PRETTY (GOSE: CONTEMPORARY)
Ceviche | Calamari | Chili | Lime

OLD STOVE BREWING COMPANY Seattle, WA
HOP CONVOY - GUAVA EDITION (PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Ceviche | Calamari | Chili | Lime
SWORDS AND WHISKEY (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG STOUT)
Hand Pie | Braised Beef Bourguignon

PALE FIRE BREWING CO. Harrisonburg, VA
RED MOLLY IRISH RED ALE (RED ALE: IRISH-STYLE)
Gruyere Gougère | Caramelized Onion
SALAD DAYS AMERICAN SAISON (AMERICAN-BELGO-STYLE ALE: PALE)
Marinated Mussels | Saffron Escabeche

PERENNIAL ARTISAN ALES St. Louis, MO
ABRAXAS (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE IMPERIAL)
Curry Squash Samosa
LA COSECHA (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED SOUR BEER: FRUITED)
Potsticker | Green Onion | Ginger | Lemongrass

PORT CITY BREWING CO. Alexandria, VA
FRANCONIAN KELLERBIER (LAGER: UNFILTERED GERMAN-STYLE)
Corn Hushpuppy | Pink Peppercorn Aioli
RIVERSHED ALE (PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Smoked Scallop Risotto Cake | Crab Salad

THE RARE BARREL Berkeley, CA
ACROSS THE SEA (SOUR ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Ceviche | Calamari | Chili | Lime
WISE GUISE (SOUR ALE: FRUITED AMERICAN-STYLE)
Short Rib Grilled Cheese

RIGHT PROPER BREWING COMPANY Washington, D.C.
RAVAGED BY WOLVES (BRETT BEER: MIXED-CULTURE)
Fried Rice Style Grains | Carrot | Cilantro | Black Garlic
SCENICRUISER (BRETT BEER: MIXED-CULTURE)
Short Rib Grilled Cheese

RIVER DOG BREWING CO. Ridgeland, SC
LOWCOUNTRY AMBROSIA (HONEY BEER)
Pretzel Roll | Fennel & Apple Sausage
MIDNIGHT MARSH (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG BEER)
Chicken Satay | Pineapple | Peanuts

ROADHOUSE BREWING CO. Jackson, WY
RASPBERRY BERET (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED SOUR BEER: FRUITED)
Cheese Crêpe | Cranberry Almond Granola
THE WALRUS (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY IMPERIAL OR DOUBLE)
Bovine & Swine Sausage

ROGUE ALES & SPIRITS Newport, OR
BATSQUATCH HAZY IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Passionfruit Panna Cotta | Meringue
DEAD GUY ALE (BOCK: TRADITIONAL GERMAN-STYLE)
Bahn Mi Meatball | Toast | Herb Salad

SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAIN BREWING Santa Cruz, CA
ADMIRAL SMASH (PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Falafel | Chive Yogurt | Harissa
MADAME GREY (STOUT: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Short Rib Grilled Cheese

SARANAC BREWERY/FX MATT BREWING COMPANY Utica, NY
GREEN THUMB DOUBLE IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: IMPERIAL)
Goat Confit | Coriander & Burnt Orange BBQ
SARANAC IPA 100 (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Dirty Rice | Chicken Skin | Celery Salad

SAUCY BREW WORKS Cleveland, OH
B.F. HEFE (HEFEWEIZEN: SOUTH GERMAN-STYLE)
Banana Cream Pie
LOVE YOU, BYE (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Corn Madeleine | Chicken Liver Mousse

SECOND CHANCE BEER COMPANY San Diego, CA
MULLIGAN IRISH-STYLE RED ALE (RED ALE: IRISH-STYLE)
Gruyere Gougère | Caramelized Onion
THE BARREL EXPERIENCE JOURNEY 2 - COCONUT MACAROON (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED STRONG STOUT)
Chocolate Coconut Macaroon

SIERRA NEVADA BREWING CO. Chico, CA
HAZY LITTLE THING IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Crab Cake | Mango | Jalapeno
SIERRAVEZA (LAGER: LATIN AMERICAN)
Rabbit Tamale | Black Mole

SOCIETE BREWING COMPANY San Diego, CA
THE HEIRESS (PILSENER: BOHEMIAN-STYLE)
Pretzel Roll | Fennel & Apple Sausage
THE PUPIL (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Hot Raclette | Fingerling Potato

SPENCER BREWERY Spencer, MA
MONKS' RESERVE ALE (QUADRUPEL: BELGIAN-STYLE)
Country Style Terrine | Plum Mustard
PEACH SAISON (SAISON: SPECIALTY)
Chicken Laab | Thai Herbs

SQUATTERS CRAFT BEERS Salt Lake City, UT
SQUATTERS HELL'S KEEP (BELGIAN- AND FRENCH-STYLE ALE OTHER)
Marinated Mussels | Saffron Escabeche
SQUATTERS TROPICAL HOP RISING (INDIA PALE ALE: IMPERIAL)
Blue Cheese Cake | Crispy Shallot | Rye

SUGAR CREEK BREWING CO. Charlotte, NC
DARK REFLECTION (ABBEY ALE: OTHER BELGIAN-STYLE)
Coffee Crème Brûlée
SUGAR CREEK WHITE ALE (WITBIER: BELGIAN-STYLE)
Goat Confit | Coriander & Burnt Orange BBQ

SWITCHBACK BREWING COMPANY Burlington, VT
BISOU (SMOKED SAISON)
Deviled Egg | Arugula | Potato Chip
SMOKE 40 (SMOKED IPA)
Dry-Aged Rib Eye | Mushroom Crust | Shallot

TAMPA BAY BREWING COMPANY Tampa, FL
REEF DONKEY APA (PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Deviled Egg | Arugula | Potato Chip
TWISTED STRAWBERRY FEST (FRUIT BEER: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Goat Cheese | Pistachio | Strawberry | White Balsamic

THREE WEAVERS BREWING CO. Inglewood, CA
KNOTTY (INDIA PALE ALE: IMPERIAL)
Red Apron Charcuterie
SEAFARER (KOELSCH: GERMAN-STYLE)
Red Apron Charcuterie

TWO ROADS BREWING COMPANY Stratford, CT
BRETT NOIR (BRETT BEER)
Passionfruit Panna Cotta | Meringue
LIL' JUICY (INDIA PALE ALE: JUICY OR HAZY)
Ceviche | Calamari | Chili | Lime

UNION CRAFT BREWING Baltimore, MD
DIVINE (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Shrimp & Grits
OLDER PRO BLACK CURRANT (SOUR ALE: FRUITED AMERICAN-STYLE)
Blue Cheese Cake | Crispy Shallot | Rye

UPLAND BREWING COMPANY Bloomington, IN
CHAMPAGNE VELVET (LAGER: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Cucumber Gazpacho | Cheese Crisp
RASPBERRY (SOUR ALE: FRUITED AMERICAN-STYLE)
Country Style Terrine | Plum Mustard

VISTA BREWING Driftwood, TX
SEEKING SAKURA - WINE BARREL AGED CHERRY BRETT ALE (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED SOUR BEER: FRUITED)
Bresaola Cone | Soft Herbs | Fresh Cherries
VELO DE FLOR (LAMBIC: BELGIAN-STYLE)
Pork Belly | Red Eye Glaze | Date Bread

WALLACE BREWING COMPANY Wallace, ID
1910 BLACK LAGER (SCHWARZBIER: GERMAN-STYLE)
Rabbit Tamale | Black Mole
HUCKLEBERRY SHANDY (FRUIT BEER: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Ricotta Gnocchi | English Peas| Chanterelles

WALLENPAUPACK BREWING COMPANY Hawley, PA
HAWLEY HEFEWEIZEN (HEFEWEIZEN: SOUTH GERMAN-STYLE)
Pork Belly | Red Eye Glaze | Date Bread
PACK & BRASS (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Short Rib Grilled Cheese

WEST SIXTH BREWING Lexington, KY
PENNYRILE PALE ALE (PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Hot Chicken | Pickled Cabbage
SIXFOLD VI: WILD SOUR WITH BLACKBERRIES (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED SOUR BEER: FRUITED)
Angel Food Cake | Macerated Berries | Lime Zest

WINCHESTER BREW WORKS Winchester, VA
BIG RUN BRUT IPA (INDIA PALE ALE: AMERICAN-STYLE)
Cacio e Pepe Croquette
COFFEE CANOE LOVE (COFFEE BEER)
Pretzel Roll | Fennel & Apple Sausage

WOODEN ROBOT BREWERY Charlotte, NC
JARRAHDALE PUMPKIN SAISON (SAISON: SPECIALTY)
Curry Squash Samosa
THICKET AS THIEVES (WOOD- AND BARREL-AGED SOUR BEER: FRUITED)
Angel Food Cake | Macerated Berries | Lime Zest

#DrinkLocal at Whole Foods Market -- Well sort of

This weekend we visited our local Whole Foods Market Brew & Brau Pub intending to try the Big Poppa Biggie S'mores Imperial Stout produced by Charlottesville's Three Notch'd Brewing Company. Unfortunately, their tap system had failed, so it was time for wine. Examining the wine list, I noticed several possible local wines from New York, Oregon, and Mendocino in California. After returning home and further research yes, the grapes were indeed, mostly sourced from within local wine regions, but not necessarily estate driven.

Madame Liberté Brut ($16.99)
There isn't much information about the wine except that it is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir using American grapes. Thus not a local wine except it is apparently made by Gruet Winery even though the winery doesn't list it on their website. In any case, it is a delicious sparkling wine: creamy apples and depth.

Empire Estate 2017 Dry Riesling, Finger Lakes  ($19)
Empire Estate sources fruit from across the Finger Lakes - a cool climate region well known for their Riesling production as it is very similar to Alsace and Western Germany. (See Viticulture in the Cold Climate Finger Lakes) This wine is excellent, dry with racy minerals, some petrol. and uplifting acids.

Elouan 2017 Pinot Noir ($24)
Elouan is a brand that sources their grapes from three terrains in Oregon’s Western vineyards that are well suited for growing cool climate varietals. The first is the NW region - most likely including the Willamette Valley AVA -- with a temperate climate and cooling marine influences. The second is the West-Central Hills consisting of diverse microclimates through the many mountains and valleys. And finally, SW Oregon, where the elevated landscape and volcanic soils are derived from the convergence of three mountain ranges. The grapes were fermented separately, blended, then aged ten months in a mix of new and seasoned French oak. The result is fantastic: the cherry fruit turns to chalky dirt with a long lingering tail.

The Federalist Bourbon Barrel-Aged Zinfandel ($21.99)
Part of the Terlato Wines family, Federalist Vineyards produces several wines from throughout The Golden State. This Alexander Hamilton labeled wine is a blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Merlot sourced from Mendocino County and aged six months in American oak and finished six months in bourbon barrels. The later barrels impart noticeable vanilla, baking spices, and caramel with the dark black fruit rounded out by approachable tannins.

Budweiser Budvar Brewery vs Anheiser-Busch

Who's familiar with the famous Budweiser trademark dispute between Czech brewery Budweiser Budvar and Anheiser-Busch InBev? In 1907 Budvar and Anheiser-Busch agreed that Budvar could use the name Budweiser in Europe (the can) but that A-B could use the name in North America. Since then there have been over 100 trademark disputes or procedural issues. In countries where A-B InBev has Budweiser rights, Budvar uses the Czechvar brand name. I usually prefer German style pilsners, but this Bohemian style works nicely. And you can read more about the trademark dispute at Budvar and Time. Cheers.

Explore #WeAreMarylandWine During Maryland Wine Month

The Maryland Wineries Association has designated March as Maryland Wine Month and to follow the action they are promoting the #WeAreMarylandWine (in addition to #MDWine #MDWineTrails & #MDWineMonth) tag on all social media platforms. There are also numerous events and activities scheduled at various wineries and retailers across the state -- all listed on the MD Wine website. So we decided to dedicate more time this month to visit the Free State and visited two that are open seven days a week - navigating with theCompass Craft Beverage Finder.

We started at Catoctin Breeze Vineyard, located north of Frederick on the Route 15 Wine Road. Being a club member, our tastings were complimentary so we went through both their Signature ($10) and Sweet ($8) tastings. After previous visits, I have discussed their wonderful dry Estate Syrah, Estate Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay among others. So let me venture into the Sweet Wine tasting and the first impression is that out of the five, only the two meads comes across as sweet. For instance, the 2016 Rhapsody ($24) contains only .5% RS which is easily balanced by the Chardonnay's acidity. The sugar just rounds out the wine. The same is also true with the 2016 Bolero Blend ($22), a 50-50 blend of Syrah and Merlot. And finally, the 2017 Prelude Vidal Blanc ($20) has a Riesling character in that once again is balanced by the grape's acids. The two meads are definitely sweeter but the 2010 Honeymoon Mead ($25) is cut with orange juice providing more relief and the spices in the 2010 Amber Mead ($23) blend nicely into the honey flavor.

From Catoctin Breeze, we navigated the back roads, through a couple covered bridges to Linganore Winecellars. Interestingly, this winery is traditionally known for its sweeter festival friendly wines but has mad a concerted effort to enhance its dry wine portfolio. These wines were our focus through the Reserve Tasting ($10), which consisted of nine wines. These ranged from the dessert 2015 Midnight Bramble ($46) through a couple off-dry to several dry.  The 2017 White Raven ($14; Cayuga & Chardonnay) and 2018 Terrapin ($14; Melody & Vidal) were both light and refreshing with the later providing a distinct apple profile. The crux of the whites was the 2017 Reserve Chardonnay ($27) fermented in oak then aged an additional six months in barrel. This is a full bodied wine, depth and creamy with lifting acids. Nicely done. The reds were Chambourcin centric with three wines showing the flexibility of that prolific grape. The 2016 Exposure ($46) is a classic Bordeaux blend but I preferred the 2017 Cabernet Franc ($35) that we received a sneak peek and has more creamy texture than green character.  The fact that Linganore produces 50,000 cases of wine using practically all estate grapes is worth a visit and tour - whether festival season, Maryland Wine Month, or year round. Cheers.

Revisiting the 2011 Ventosa Vineyards Estate Lemberger

In August 2015 the annual Wine Bloggers Conference was held in New York's Finger Lakes and consisted of a pre-conference excursion to the Seneca Lake AVA. I participated in this trip which included a visit to Ventosa Vineyards - located on the Northeast shore of the lake. At this winery, we tasted their 2011 Estate Lemberger. Now as readers know, we are immediately drawn to this grape varietal whether named Lemberger, Blaufränkisch, or Kekfrankos. And we particularly gravitated to this wine when we learned that it had just been awarded the 2015 New York Governors Cup. That day winemaker Jenna Lavita (co-owner of Lake Drum Brewing) mentioned that the "blue" grape is planted on warmer sites because of its early budding nature, although it ripens later - translating to longer maturity time. My tasting notes refer to a dark black cherry wine, with subtle spice and tobacco, decent tannins, and generous acids. Naturally, I purchased a bottle to bring home and four and a half years later I pulled the cork. The acids have kept the wine fresh, with similar dark cherry fruit, textured, with more leather and spice instead of tobacco. The wine finishes with chewy tannins and still decent acidity. Nicely done Jenna.

Caboose Commons: Cashless, Coffee, and Craftbeer

This week I finally allocated time to visit Caboose Commons, a new craft brewery located in the Fairfax Mosiac District. This stand-alone facility with adequate parking maintains several other characteristics that differ from its older sibling, Vienna's Caboose Brewing.  First, it is cashless. Not a problem until you ask to open a tab. The brewery is strictly pay as you go - one beer at a time.  Also, flights are not an option; tasters yes, a flight no. Second, the brewery acts as a typical coffee house. On this visit, most of the visitors were occupied staring into laptops or devices, coffee cups adjacent to the screens. The wifi must be powerful for the amount of devices. Next, the facility is more spacious than the Vienna brewery - or at least it appears as such with a larger outdoor space and two levels of loft seating. And finally, the menu is larger - regarding both food and craft beverages. While still sourcing from local artisans, the restaurant provides breakfast at 7AM as well as an all-day menu and then a combined lunch and dinner selection. As for craft beverages, there's an expanded wine list and during our visit 14 craft beers available. Caboose's strength is their German and Czech styled ales and lagers -- particularly their Schwarzbier.  I tasted their relatively new Slam Dunkel and Stop Drop & Doppelbock (both stylistically accurate) before settling on the session-able Earl of Hops. This IPA is clean with loads of fresh citrus. Nicely done. And as always, theCompass Craft Beverage Finder contains information for both Caboose locations. Cheers.