Pomme and Perry Showcase: What is Perry?

Most readers are familiar with cider - or hard cider as it is referred to in the United States. The legal tax definitions are that it is (1) made from apples, pears, or concentrate of apples or pears and water; (2) contains no other fruit product or fruit flavoring other than apple or pear; and (3) contains at least 0.5% and less than 8.5% alcohol by volume.

Pear cider or Perry is a subset within this classification and the major difference with apple cider is not only the fruit but more importantly that pears naturally contain unfermentable sugars (sorbitol) that leave a residual sweetness in the beverage. And whereas cider uses the Long Ashton Research Station (LARS) classification system to understand the complex relationships between acidity, tannin, and sugar levels, perry classification is much simpler. Either low tannins or high tannins.

Differences Between Perry and Cider:

• Fruit: Perry is made from fermented pears, while hard cider is made from fermented apples.
• Unfermentable Sugars: Pears contain unfermentable sugars, such as sorbitol, which leave a residual sweetness in the beverage. This is not typically found in hard cider.
• Maturity and Pomace: Pears must be left to mature after picking, and the pomace (fruit residue) must be left to stand after initial crushing to lose tannins, a process similar to wine maceration. Hard cider production does not require this step.
• Chemical Compositional Differences: Apples and pears have distinct chemical compositions, affecting pre-fermentation and fermentation decisions for perry production.

Pear Varieties:

• Barnet: A sweet pear variety with low acidity and tannins, making it suitable for perry production.
• Butt: A bittersharp triploid pear variety, often used for perry making, particularly in England.
• Yellow Huffcap: A sharp diploid pear variety, also used for perry production, with a high tannin content.
• Barland: A pear variety known for producing consistently excellent perry, with a balanced flavor profile.
• Brandy: Another pear variety suitable for perry making, with a flavor profile that might evoke notes of brandy.
• Thorn: A pear variety mentioned as one of the best for perry production, although specific characteristics are not specified.
• Taylor’s Gold: A pear variety reported to produce excellent perry, with a sweet flavor profile.
• Normanischen Ciderbirne: A European pear variety used for perry making, with a flavor profile that might include notes of apple and pear.
• Gin: A pear variety mentioned as part of a European variety selection used for perry production.
• Hendrik’s Huffcap: A pear variety used for perry making, with a flavor profile that might include notes of citrus and floral hints.

Recently we have opened three classic perries: Wooden Gate Cider Manitoba Perry, Doc Waters Cidery Lady Kay Perry. , and the Finnriver Farm & Cidery Traditional  Perry. The latter is composed of Hendre Huffcap, Yellow Huffcap, Romanian Perry pears grown in Finnriver’s organic orchard and wildcrafted seedling pears from the Olympic Peninsula. A classic perry. The Lady Kay Perry is made from pears harvest from a 100 year-old tree found on their Maryland property and which we used in a Perry-Vermouth Cocktail. The Wooden Gate is made from winter hardy dessert pears blended with hardy bitter varieties and producing a more acidic farmhouse style that works equally well in a Perry-Vermouth cocktail.

Some cideries choose to create apple-pear blends which allow the acidity and tannins of the apples to meld with the sweeter tannins and floral character of the pears. Glass Apple Cider from the Green Bay Packer region offers the Grow A Pear semi-dry cider which combines the ripeness and juicy acidity of the apples with the sweetness and floral elements of the pears. In neighboring Duluth Minnesota, Wild State Cider offers a similar product in the Juicy Pear. Brace for a more refreshing option than a traditional perry. Similarly, Locust Cider offers their Honey Pear – a blend of Washington state apples and pears with wildflower honey with rising acidity to balance the sweeter profile.

Regenerative Rosé from Domaine Bousquet

This year we have received many samples from Domaine Bousquet and have covered the winery in the Wines with Altitude series based on the fact that their estate vineyards are 4,000 feet above sea level. Yet, we have not covered in detail their most important viticulture accomplishment-- the first Argentinean winery achieving Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC). "Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Domaine Bousquet unknowingly started the regenerative process 25 years ago by farming organically then slowly adding in more features aligning to Regenerative agriculture. Wineries highlight different aspects of certification and Domaine Bousquet focuses on three three key areas:

• Soil Health and Land Management
• Animal Welfare
• Equity between Farmers and Workers

According to co-owner and CEO Anne Bousquet, "by nurturing the earth and treating it with respect, the earth will reward us with its finest fruits. Healthy plants, cultivated through these methods, do not require pesticides. The healthiest grapes yield quality yeast, leading to smooth fermentation. Consequently, we reduce the need for adjustments during the winemaking process, resulting in wines that express their true character." Thus the agricultural practices they practice aim to foster a more balanced and nourishing ecosystem. 

Soil Health and Land Management
"Within the realm of regenerative practices, we actively promote various natural processes, with a special emphasis on the use of compost. Compost contributes not only organic matter and nutrients but also enhances microbiology and soil structure. Our vineyards hold certifications for organic agriculture (ECOCERT), regenerative (ROC), and biodynamic (Demeter) practices. All our efforts are directed toward cultivating healthy soils, including composting, rotational grazing, and cover crops. We have also minimized soil tillage to encourage root development and beneficial bacteria, reducing the need for external fertilizers. Collectively, these practices help mitigate erosion, preserve organic matter, and boost soil biodiversity and fertility."

And according to the winery, the climate within the Tupungato mountain range at Gualtallary encourages organic farming. "Thanks to the [Mendoza] Uco Valley's dry climate and phylloxera-resistant sandy soils, organic farming at Domaine Bousquet, from day one, was not only possible, but desirable. Other factors that distinguish this landscape are the constant breezes from the Andes to the west, which help mitigate heat stress in this desert climate. Significant temperature differentials between day and night help enhance aromatics, while the sandy soils result in low fertility, desirable for vine stress and ideal for good drainage. With an average annual rainfall of just 8"/203 mm, groundwater from the Andes snowmelt is vital for vineyard irrigation. Time has shown that the roots of organically grown vines penetrate deeper, allowing greater access to water in times of drought. Not least, organic farming is decidedly better for the long-term well-being of the local environment as well as the people who tend the vines."

Domaine Bousquet Organic Rosé 2023 ($13)
This organic wine is an interesting composition of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Syrah, 10% Pinto Grigio, and 10% Viognier. Each grape variety provides input to the complex mouthfeel - strawberry, citrus, floral, some spice, and abundant acidity.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2023 ($18)
This wine is 100% organically grown Pinot Noir and after gliding through the floral and strawberry notes, the acidity and creamy texture resides.

Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rosé NV ($13)
This sparkling wine is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay with noticeable lemon and white grapefruit notes, some bready yeast, and similar texture as the Gaia. A bargain at this price point. 

Wilding in Vineyards with the Apis Arborea TreeNest

While discussing their Regenerative Farming practices at their American Canyon Vineyard at Grgich Hills Estate, Luke and Ivo Jeramaz showed us the most interesting bee hive. It was cylinder tree log, covered with bark, and located a dozen feet above our head. This TreeNest was designed by the  nonprofit organization Apis Arborea in order to promote wild honeybee populations. Seeing the hive immediately raised two insights. (1)  Yes, wild bees do exist and (2) the TreeNest seemed so nature - as opposed to the boxed nature of commercial bee hives. 

While showing us the TreeNest, Luke described how the bees assist in the general bio-diversity of the American Canyon Vineyard and the surrounding land. The bees can forage up to 8,000 acres assisting in cover crop pollination and as stewards of the landscape, Grgich Hills has a responsibility to make it as natural as possible. 

He also introduced me to Michael Thiele, Founder and President of Apis Arborea.  During our call, Mr. Thiele described the history, challenges and ecological impacts of contemporary beekeeping and why he founded Apis Arborea -- to shift the focus from thinking in terms of commodities (Apis Mellifera) to that of their natural, historical habitat in trees. -- preserving the life and resiliency of honeybees through wilding.

During our exchange, I learned that the modern techniques of beekeeping are modern conventions that force the bees to utilize un-natural processes. In the distant past, beekeepers used egg shape hives or woven skeps -- mimicking how bees nest in nature. However, the "bee box" method employed almost universally today stresses the bees. First according to Thiele, "thermodynamics shows that the walls are too thin to protect the bees". Second, the combs implanted into the wooden frames are artificially sized to maximize output and are not the same size as combs that bees create naturally in the wild. Third, bees prefer to live high in trees -- away from predators; in smaller homes with smaller entrances.   And finally, commercial bee colonies are much more prone to long term extinction by disease as bees from neighboring hives mix easily within the colonies. On the other hand wild hives are much more likely to bounce back after a disease crisis. 

Thus Thiele sees wilding and TreeNests as a more ethical choice and allows bees to create a "self-willed ecological process". And he sees vineyards as a refuge for wild honeybees to recover their health and strength and to live freely -- not in square boxes. 

Courtesy of Apis Arborea

Like Grgich Hills Estate, Spotteswood Estate is another Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) winery that hosts wild bees through TreeNests. According to Aron Weinkauf (Winemaker & Vineyard Manager), "as they forage to nurture future generations in their hives, bees help to propagate cover crops that enrich the soil in our vineyards and flowering plants that attract other beneficial insects that keep our vines pest free. And as they range up to a mile and a half from their hives, they pollinate our neighbors’ gardens and fruit trees in every direction as well. "

Cabernet Franc & Blaufränkisch Stand Out at the Finger Lakes Roadshow

Last month I attended the The Finger Lakes Roadshow sponsored by the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance and whereas Riesling and more recently Gruner Veltliner are the more popular wines; I was most impressed with the red expressions. Across the board the Cabernet Franc wines were fresh, not overly extracted or abused by oak, and ready to drink. Blaufränkisch was another impressive expression.

Starting with this Austrian-Hungarian grape, Jordan Harris of Heron Hill Winery explained that Blaufränkisch is a natural to the Finger Lakes and with any experiment to alter picking by brix, maceration, and other factor, the grape responds with the very same outcome: "just leave me alone."  At the Roadshow, the winery's red expressions showcased their single vineyard selections from Ingle Vineyard -- located on Seneca Point, on the west side of Canandaigua Lake and is the largest vinifera vineyard on the lake.  The 2020 Ingle Vineyard Blaufränkisch is very Hungarian in nature (where it is known as Kékfrankos) with its sour cherry-black cherry profile, noticeable tannins, and spicy-acidic finish. The 2020 Ingle Vineyard Cabernet Franc is also delicious - fresh, with dark fruit and I touch of earthiness and spice.  And like all the Cabernet Franc wines tasted at the event, the herbaceousness and earthiness was very subtle - no ultra bell pepper methoxypyrazine in sight.

Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars farms over 119 acres on the eastern hillsides of Seneca Lake with Cabernet Franc a prevalent player. At the Roadshow the winery demonstrated the ageability of even unoaked Cab Franc through their T23 Unoaked Cabernet Franc.  The 2022 provides bright, juicy dark fruit - actually - layers upon layers of fruit. The 2017 has transformed into a more luscious profile, still fruit forward and lasting acidity, but more dried cherries.  

Sheldrake Point Winery's 60 acre estate is located on the western side of Cayuga Lake with the vineyards facing the lake and sloping almost to the water's edge. Their 2020 Cabernet Franc includes some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It exudes crisp cherry fruit with layers of texture and soft tannins. Once again, fresh acidity throughout. Their 2023 Dry Rosé is a strawberry laced, 100% lightly pressed Cabernet Franc with added texture from the skin contact. Finally, the winery poured a light bodied and fresh 2022 Gamay Noir showing a little smoke and spice. 

Hosmer Winery also poured a Cab Franc based rosé in addition to a standard single varietal wine. Through the Patrician Verona Vineyard, they have been growing grapes for 50 years on the western shore of Cayuga Lake. Sadly they decided not to bring any of their Lemberger (the German form of Blaufränkisch) to the tasting, but shared with us their value-driven 2022 Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc. Bright acidity swirling with strawberries.  Their 2021 Cabernet Franc is 100% easy drinking with chewy tannins intermingled with the red fruit profile.

Seneca Lake's Lakewood Vineyards poured their 2021 Cabernet Franc which expressed bright fruit and acidity with hints of spiciness and minerality. This wine reflects the experience provided by seven 7 and three generations of grape-growing experience. 

Perhaps the favorite Cabernet Franc of the afternoon was poured by Wagner Vineyards. This winery is celebrating 45 years of winemaking and cultivating on the eastern slope of Seneca Lake and proudly showed their 2017 Estate Cabernet Franc. My notes reveal vibrant fruit, mature tannins, and no traces of methoxypyrazine.  A lovable wine. Wagner also poured their 2023 Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc -- another in the line of fresh, berries, and juicy acidity.

Lastly, although not the subject of this post, I also want to mention that the pet-nat and sparkling wines were equally fantastic whether the primary grape was Riesling, Pinot Noir, or Chardonnay. Affordable priced as well. 

Dry Creek Vineyard -- The Foundation of the Dry Creek Valley

The success of wineries within Sonoma's Dry Creek Valley is completely intertwined with the vision and determination of a founding winery, Dry Creek Vineyard. This is shown in the foresight of founder David S. Stare who moved his family from New England to Sonoma County where in the early 1970s he purchased "a rundown 55-acre prune orchard across the street from the Dry Creek General Store". On this site he started planting the region's first vines since prohibition -- one of these against the advice of "experts" and the love of the Loire Valley -- Sauvignon Blanc. This lead to the first Sonoma County wine labelled Fume Blanc and soon afterwards their Chenin Blanc was highly respected and served at White House dinners. 

In the 1980s, Stare was instrumental in obtaining the American Viticulture Area (AVA) status for Dry Creek Valley and immediately was the first winery to label their wines from this AVA.  Thus their labels became somewhat iconic honoring the New England sailboat culture and Dry Creek Valley viticulture. 

In the late 1980s, daughter Kim Stare Wallace joined the winery as director of marketing together they drove more innovation. The winery was the founding member of the Meritage Foundation and was the first to use the phrase "old-vine" for Zinfandel vines planted before Prohibition.  After joining the team, husband Don Wallace pioneered the California Sustainable Winegrowers Program which eventually lead to the winery becoming 100% Certified Sustainable in 2014. Around the same time the couple changed the winery's philosophy by "dramatically reducing production while increasing quality and sharpening the focus on appellation-driven, terroir-focused wines that rival the best in California".  The wines we sampled at our visit as part of the BevFluence Sonoma Experience reflect this philosophy. 

2022 Clarksburg Dry Chenin Blanc ($17)
Dry Chenin Blanc has been a regular release from the winery since their inception in 1972. This is a classic Loire Valley-style wine with complex, mouth watering acidity and minerality with surprisingly abundant texture. 

2023 Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($25)
This wine incorporates two Sauvignon Blanc clones - Sauvignon Musqué and Sauvignon Gris - that are farmed in several distinct vineyard sites. It's another complex wine and original 1972 offering with lemongrass and floral aromas transitioning to a more tropical profile.

2023 Dry Creek Valley Petite Zin Rosé ($32)
This rosé is predominately Zinfandel with a small addition of Petite Sirah with the grapes lightly pressed and cold fermented. Floral, lime, herbaceous with a refreshing finish. 

2021 Sonoma County Heritage Vines Zinfandel ($28)
The wine is labeled "Heritage Cines" as cuttings from pre-Prohibition era Zinfandel vines were grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock. These vines were then propagated to four vineyards to ensure a virus-free and healthy crop.   This was a group favorite and noticeable for its tremendous value. Loads of dark fruit, light pepper, some baking spices, and earthiness. Love the acidity. 

2020 Dry Creek Valley Beeson Ranch Zinfandel ($55)
The Beeson Ranch was planted in the late 1800s and is one of Dry Creek Valley’s oldest and most prized vineyards. Located along West Dry Creek Road, Beeson Ranch faces east and extends up several gentle hillsides to a forest of conifer trees. The old gnarled Zinfandel vines, first planted by Italian immigrants, produce a most interesting wine. Consumers are inundated with complex notes within a vast range of dark fruit, spices, and earthy qualities. Drink now or let the acids work for a few years.   

2019 Dry Creek Valley The Mariner ($55)
The Mariner showcases the winery's New England heritage and Meritage foundation. The grapes for are derived from several prized estate and hillside vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley. The wine explodes in the mouth, generating tides of complex flavors with dark cherries, mocha, and herbaceous notes standing out. Another to drink now, but better to be patient for later consumption.

2019 Dry Creek Valley Endeavour Cabernet Sauvignon ($100)
The Endeavour Vineyard is located in the Lytton Springs district of Dry Creek Valley and the vines take advantage of the diverse soil conditions on the property. This is a world-class wine, already sitting for a number of years in the bottle where additional aging will not destroy the structured tannins and complexity. 

Unveiling the Allure of Dry Cider: A Celebration of Complexity and Refreshment

As we get deeper into the summer, gearing up for the grilling season and pouring glasses of refreshing libations , it is essential to remember a popular beverage that spans the entire history of America and centuries prior. Cider. 

July is dry cider month, better known as Dry Cider July, where we celebrate an often neglected category in the craft beverage space. Many people have stories of toothache-inducing cider, and that memory ruins it as an option for parties, BBQs, baseball games, or just a fantastic summer evening with a cigar. 

During this month, you can expect a myriad of tasting notes, pictures, video reviews, and much more from the BevFluence Community, but for now, we will explore the history and styles of dry cider. Keep in mind that for the 4th of July, the founders drank more cider than beer. 

A History Steeped in Refreshment

Cider, encompassing dry and sweet styles, boasts a rich heritage spanning centuries across Europe. Apples were plentiful, particularly in England and northern France, making cider a natural choice as the default alcoholic beverage in many regions. While sweet ciders were certainly enjoyed, dry ciders held a special place for their refreshing acidity and lower sugar content.

The exact origin of dry cider remains shrouded in the mists of time. Evidence suggests that Celts in Britain fermented crab apples – ancestors of the bittersweet and bittersharp apples used today – as far back as 3000 BCE. The Roman invasion introduced new apple cultivars and orcharding techniques, potentially influencing cider production. 

Historical records became more sparse after the Roman era. However, cider-drinking Vikings and Anglo-Saxons likely continued the tradition. The Norman Conquest of 1066 marked a turning point. The Normans brought tannic and acidic cider apples, forever altering the landscape of English cider. With their unique flavor profile, these apples were instrumental in developing the dry cider styles we know today.

Across the English Channel, France also developed its cider tradition. While dry ciders were undoubtedly produced, French cider makers often favored sweeter styles utilizing specific apple varieties and the “keeving” process, which removes harsh tannins while preserving some sugar. This distinction between the drier English style and the sweeter French style persists today, showcasing the diverse expressions within the realm of dry cider.

The Symphony of Apples: Crafting Complexity

Unlike some alcoholic beverages that rely on a single dominant ingredient, dry cider draws its character from carefully selected apples. These are not your typical dessert apples found at the grocery store but rather apples chosen over the centuries that make great cider. Dry cider production relies on specific apple varieties for their ideal balance of sugars, tannins, and acidity. Here are some key players in the dry cider symphony:

• Sharp/Bittersweet Apples: Varieties like Kingston Black, Dabinett, and Foxwhelp bring acidity, tannins, and intriguing flavors reminiscent of herbs and spices to the cider. These apples add complexity and structure, preventing the cider from tasting one-dimensional.
  
• Bittersweet/Tannic Apples: Apples like Yarlington Mill, Chiverton Crab, and Michelin contribute tannins. Tannins are astringent compounds that provide a drying sensation on the palate and contribute to the cider’s structure and mouthfeel. They can also impart subtle bitterness, which, when balanced, adds complexity to the overall flavor profile.
  
• Tart/High-Acid Apples: Apples like Granny Smith and some culinary varieties add a refreshing burst of acidity. This acidity balances sweetness and prevents the cider from tasting flabby or overly sweet. It also contributes to the cider’s crisp and refreshing character.

Cidermakers carefully blend these apple varieties to achieve the desired balance of sweetness, acidity, tannins, and flavor profile. In some cases, they produce single-varietal apple cider. The specific combination of apples can vary greatly depending on the cider maker’s vision and the characteristics of the available harvest. This interplay between apple selection, fermentation techniques, and aging processes allows for remarkable diversity within the dry cider category.

Beyond Sweetness: Yes, Dry Cider is a thing.

The rise of dry cider can be attributed to several factors that resonate with modern drinkers:

• Shifting Palates: Consumers across various alcoholic beverages are increasingly drawn to drier styles. Dry cider offers a refreshing alternative to sweeter options, appealing to those who prefer a less sugary drink.
  
• A Spotlight on Fruit Character: Dry ciders, with minimal residual sugar, allow the unique flavors and characteristics of the apples to shine through. This results in a more complex and nuanced drinking experience, where the subtle notes of the apples take center stage. Consumers can appreciate the distinct varietal characteristics of the apples used, similar to how wine drinkers savor the nuances of different grape varieties.
  
• Food Pairing Versatility: Dry cider’s lower sugar content makes it a versatile beverage for food pairing. Unlike sweeter ciders, which can clash with certain dishes, dry cider’s crispness and acidity complement a more comprehensive range of flavors. It can enhance the richness of fatty dishes, cut through the creaminess of cheeses, and even stand up to bolder spices.
  
• Cider Cocktails: Dry cider is a popular choice for cocktails due to its unique characteristics, which set it apart from other types of cider. The acidity helps to balance the sweetness of other ingredients and creates a refreshing and crisp taste. Its complexity adds depth and interest to cocktails. Its versatility makes it a great choice for mixologists looking to experiment with new flavors. And dry cider’s acidity and tannins help to balance the sweetness of other ingredients in cocktails, creating a harmonious and refreshing taste.
  
• Health Considerations: With less sugar and often fewer calories than sweeter ciders, dry cider may be a healthier option for some consumers. While alcohol consumption should always be done in moderation, the lower sugar content can be a factor for those who are mindful.

Finding Your Perfect Dry Cider

So, you’re intrigued by the world of dry cider and eager to embark on your exploration. Here are some tips to help you navigate the shelves and discover your perfect dry cider:

• Label Language: Become familiar with key terms on cider labels. Words like “dry,” “brut,” “off-dry,” or “bone-dry” generally indicate a drier cider. “Brut” is a style modeled after Brut Champagne, often featuring zero grams of residual sugar and sparkling nature.
• Nutritional Information: Sometimes ciders will display nutritional information on the label. If you find it, look for the sugar content. Aim for 0-3 grams of sugar per 16-ounce can for a dry cider.
• Online Resources: The American Cider Association’s Dry Cider Directory is valuable. This online directory lists dry ciders from member producers, making finding options in your area easier.
  • https://ciderassociation.org/dryciderfinder/
• Embrace the Adventure: Don’t be afraid to experiment! Visit your local cider shop or talk to a knowledgeable salesperson. Many cider shops offer tastings, allowing you to sample different dry ciders and discover favorites. Cider Makers are passionate about their craft and love to share their knowledge. Ask questions and learn about the specific apple varieties used and the cider making process behind each offering.

The Future of Dry Cider: Beyond July 

Dry cider’s popularity is poised for continued growth. As consumers become more adventurous in their palates and seek out drier styles across various beverages, dry cider is well-positioned to capture their attention. Our team has partnered with the American Cider Association to present the most extensive marketing opportunity for the cider industry in modern history. 

The rise of dry cider also signifies a growing appreciation for quality ingredients and artisanal production methods. Consumers are increasingly interested in understanding where their food and drink come from and the stories behind them. Dry cider, often produced by small, independent cider makers using traditional methods and locally sourced apples, aligns perfectly with this trend.

In conclusion, dry cider offers a refreshing, flavorful, and food-friendly alternative for those seeking a drier beverage experience. Its rich history, unique apple varieties, and commitment to quality craftsmanship make it a category worth exploring for any adventurous drinker. So, raise a glass of dry cider, embrace the symphony of apple flavors, and discover the delightful world of refreshment it offers.