Gambero Rosso's Vini D’Italia 2025 Roadshow

On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide.

The masterclass focused on Pecorino within several different regulatory zones: IGT Pecorino, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino, Colline Pescaresi, and the Tullum DOCG. The wines shared a persistent floral character, and fabulous acidity, while alternating between citrus and tropical fruits. My favorites of the nine featured were the Cascina Del Colle Terre Di Chieti Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore Aimè 2023 and the Cantina Tollo Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  The latter is comprised of 100% organically grown Pecorino that was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity.  The Aimè is farmed organically and is profoundly more fruit forward with strong ripe peaches and tropical notes. That profile is balanced by lively minerality. Two fantastic wines. 

Moving into the Embassy's atrium and the walkaround tasting I focused on two regions: Puglia and Lazio. I started with Amastuola, a wine resort and farm located just north of Taranto where they organically farm ten grape varieties. By design, the 100 hectare estate "brings together the two concepts of functionality and aesthetics. The rows of vines were planted on the basis of the design conceived by the great landscape designer Fernando Caruncho. The vine spaliers draw harmonious parallel waves that follow each other for about 3 km. " Their IGP Puglia Bialento di Amastuola 2024 is a blend of Malvasia and Fiano and provides fresh pears, white grapefruit, and herbaceous notes. The IGP Puglia Primitivo di Amastuola 2021 is full bodied dark fruit with layers of light spices and juicy tannins.  Then there's  Negroamaro - a favorite Puglia grape - and their IGP Puglia Negroamaro di Amastuola 2021 shows luscious soft fruit  and a juicy spiced finish. 

Masca del Tacco is located in the cultural heart of central-northern Salento with 200 hectares of vines within a triangle of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce. They farm Negroamaro, Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fiano, and the Brindisi based Masseria Paticchi vineyard contains the regal Susumaniello grape. They poured a very delicious and surprisingly mineral laden Susumaniello Rosato 2024 and well as the full bodied Susumaniello 2023 with its layers of fresh and inviting fruit.  

From Lazio and just southeast of Rome, Colle di Maggio introduced us to the indigenous Bombino Blanco grape which they grow in volcanic soils along with Fiano, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. These vines are over 50 years old, are planted 150-200 meters above sea level, and benefit from their proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Bombino Blanca is a late ripening variety and disease tolerant grape primarily used in blends and the Sirio Lazio Bianco IGP is a delicious combination of Chardonnay and Bombino. They release another excellent Chardonnay blend in the Lunapigra Lazio Bianco IGP -- this time paired with Fiano. 

Located a little closer to the sea, Casale del Giglio was a most pleasant surprise. The winery started as a small family venture in 1967 then expanded in 1985 with the planting of an experimental vineyard of 60 different vines. This translates today to a large portfolio of a dozen flagship grape varieties, with two very intriguing options: Viognier and Bellone. The Lazio IGP Blanco Viognier is a very rare sighting of this Rhone grape in the Italian landscape and provides full fruit - with layers of peaches and apricots. The Lazio IGP Blanco Bellone shows that this ancient (once sited by Pliny the Elder) and drought resistant grape thrives in the sandy soils close to the sea. The wine shows tropical fruit and fresh acidity that is extremely quaffable. This is one to seek.