Grape Spotlight: Abruzzo's Tullum DOCG Pecorino

The Tullum DOCG is one of Italy's smallest and newest DOCGs -- becoming that country's 75th DOCG in 2019.  The DOCG is confined to the Tollo municipality, in the province of Chieti, in Abruzzo. Tullum was also the first local DOP (Protected Denomination of Origin) in Abruzzo -- created in 2008.  The Tullum DOCG is also unique in that it involves only three wine producers (Feudo Antico CTSCA, Vigneti Radica, and Cantina Coltivatori Diretti Tollo CCDD) and only 18 hectares (44.5 acres) of vines. The Tullum vineyards are located a few kilometers inland from the Adriatic, about halfway up the coast of Abruzzo. The DOCG zone is an area of rolling green hills and forested ridges leading down to the sea. The primary grape varieties permitted are Montepulciano, Passerina, or Pecorino. To learn more about the Pecorino gape, please see our previous Grape Spotlight posts. 

According to the Consortium, "the Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin 'Terre Tollesi' or 'Tullum' is only granted to wines meeting the conditions and requirements regulated by law. Regulations sets out the details of the winemaking and labelling standards that include a low-yield production, the exclusive use of native vine varieties, and cellar practices respectful of the quality of the product. Tullum introduces for the first time the concept of single vineyards cru. Regulations identify which vine varieties are allowed on the specific single plot. Grapes, with the exception of vineyards located at an altitude of less than 80 m above sea level, must be harvested, vinified, and bottled within the same production area. The planting density must not be lower than 1.600 plants per hectare for the pergola abruzzese system, and lower than 4.000 plants per hectare for vine rows. "

On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide. 

One of the nine wines presented in the masterclass was the Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  As it's name suggests this 100% organically grown Pecorino was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity,