Grape Spotlight: Maryland Regent from Burnt Hill Farm

The Regent Diamond is a 140.64-carat (28.128 g) diamond, classified as D color with a slight bluish tinge, cut into a cushion brilliant shape and internally flawless, making it one of the most historically significant and valuable diamonds in the world.  Discovered in India and cut in London, the diamond has adorned numerous French royal regalia - plus Napoleon - throughout history. Today it is hopefully secure at the Louvre and estimated to be worth US$60,000,000.  

With this background in mind, grape breeders at the Geilweilerhof Institute for Grape Breeding in Germany named a new hybrid after the diamond - the Regent grape. Big expectations. The grape was bred in 1967 by Professor Gerhardt Alleweldt with the intent to create a high-quality grape that could survive in cold climates.  He eventually crossed Diana (Silvaner × Müller-Thurgau) and Chambourcin - thus blending European vitus vinifera and French-hybrid genetics. After years of experimental plantings, the grape was officially released in 1996.

In general, Regent produces solid yields and is highly resistant to mildew diseases; the variety also has thick dark skins and an abundance of tannins. Chambourcin provides the resistance component whereas the Diana adds vinifera class. Unusually, Regent's flesh is stained red – a condition known as teinturier, and another indication that it is genetically geared toward producing powerful reds.

Regent has become a symbol of sustainable viticulture, reducing reliance on chemical sprays thanks to its natural resistance. This is what attracted Drew Baker, co-founder of Burnt Hill Farm, to organically farm grape on the their estate.  This fits into the regenerative farming philosophy espoused by Baker which we will highlight in more detail in a future post. In the meanwhile take a stroll through Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss? which includes a video of Burnt Hill Farm. In general, they treat the farm as its own ecosystem and raise longwool sheep, woodland hogs, honey bees, log-grown mushrooms, heritage grains, and a small orchard. They even harvested dying ash trees to create foeders to ferment and age their wine.

The 2021 Single Barrel Selection RE - 01 Barrel 5 spent three years in one of these foeders before being bottled and released as a single barrel selection. Drew is very enthusiastic about this release and the future of Regent at Burnt Hill Farm.  This medium-full bodied wine reminded me of a partnership between Petite Sirah and Chambourcin.  It appeared to have dark red fruit, more black pepper than spice, and more tannic structure than a typical Chambourcin. Plus an abundant supply of aromatics. Looks very promising. 

Beer Centric: German Pilsner vs Czech Pilsner vs Italian Pilsner

German pilsners are typically crisper, drier, and more bitter than their Czech counterparts, often using German noble hops like Hallertau or Tettnanger, and may feature harder water chemistry to enhance sharpness. They are generally lighter in color and less malty than Czech pilsners, which are known for their fuller body, slightly sweet malt character, and the use of distinctive Czech Saaz hops that contribute floral and spicy notes.   In contrast, Italian pilsners are defined by dry-hopping, which imparts a pronounced floral and aromatic hop character not commonly found in traditional German pilsners, where dry-hopping is rare.

 

Pilsner Urquell was my entry into European beers and when I happened upon Budvar, I was hooked on Czech Pilsner.  Pleasantly malted with a unique spicy finish. Eventually I started exploring Warsteiner, Bitburger, and locally Victory Prima Pils, Brau Pils, and the Hardywood Pils where German Pilsners became my thing. I think it's the maltiness and hard water bitterness that is so attractive. As for the Italian angle, I was never a great fan of that style since it seems that the dry-hopping overwhelms the mid-palate. In any case here's a breakdown of the three pilsner styles.

Regenerative Farming: Why the Fuss?

Last year we posted a few articles on Regenerative Farming in terms of the core tenets being implemented at Grgich Hills Estate, Ridge Vineyards, and Domaine Bousquet.  Why the fuss over regenerative farming practices? Let's first look at the negative consequences of conventional farming practices. 

• Soil degradation due to wind and water erosion, soil compaction, loss of organic matter, reduced water-holding capacity, and salinization in irrigated areas, which collectively diminish soil productivity.
• The extensive use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides contributes to water pollution, contaminating groundwater and surface waters with nitrates, phosphorus, and other chemicals, leading to eutrophication and the creation of "dead zones" in aquatic ecosystems.
• Monoculture practices and heavy pesticide use reduce biodiversity by harming pollinators and other beneficial insects.
• The overuse of pesticides has also led to the development of resistant pests and pathogens, complicating pest management.
• These practices also pose health risks to farm workers and consumers due to exposure to pesticide residues and the sub-therapeutic use of antibiotics in animal production.
  

Now, let's examine the positive benefits of regenerative farming practices.

• No till agriculture reduces erosion and keeps valuable nutrients and microbes in the soil.
• Bio-diversity in the vineyard through at least four plant groups leads to sharing of nutrients.
• Planting cover crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture.
• Let animals manage most vineyard activities such as mowing and pest control. 
• Institute labor practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety that leads to greater retention and thus increased productivity.

Because of the negative consequences of conventional farming and the positive benefits from regenerative practices, farms are transitioning to various regenerative certifications. These include:

• USDA Certified Organic: While not strictly regenerative, organic farming avoids synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, laying a foundation for further regenerative practices.
• Demeter Biodynamic: This certification focuses on a holistic approach to agriculture, emphasizing soil health and biodiversity.
• Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC): This emerging standard verifies adherence to principles focused on soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness.

Over the next year we will be posting about Regenerative Farming practices implemented at various vineyards and farms such as here at Maryland's Burnt Hill Farm. As you can see in the video below the farm practices bio-diversity; planting cover crops; and allow animals, in this case sheep, to manage many vineyard activities.  

Are there pitfalls and criticism of regenerative agriculture? Absolutely.  There is a solid argument that the global food system cannot transition entirely to regenerative methods without causing deforestation and habitat destruction, as there is insufficient land available for farming. The shift to regenerative practices also places significant demands on farmers, particularly smaller ones, who may lack the resources or support to adopt these new tenets.  Fair enough, but we should move away from synthetic fertilizers and pesticides that are extremely damaging. Your thoughts?

The Essence of the Olive: From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made

Behind every golden drop of olive oil lies a process that blends ancient tradition with modern precision. Much like winemaking or distillation, olive oil production is a balance of art and science — where timing, technique, and terroir determine the outcome. From the grove to the press, each step in the journey shapes the oil’s flavor, aroma, and integrity.

For those in the beverage world, understanding how olive oil is made offers valuable insight into its complexity — and the same appreciation we give to the craftsmanship behind a fine wine or spirit.

Featured Producer
Terre Francescane is located in Umbria and the Gradassi family has been farming olives for 400 years.  In 1639, when – according to an ancient inscription found on a stone in the old olive mill – the Gradassi family began farming olives. Four centuries later they still proudly harvest olives from the same fertile slopes their ancestors did. I picked up this bottle of their L'Italiano Black Ceramic at the Rome airport duty free store and wish I had purchased more. It's slightly sweet with a pleasant bitterness at the finish - easy for a teaspoon a day diet. 

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The Harvest: Timing Is Everything

The olive harvest typically takes place between October and December in the Northern Hemisphere (and April to June in the Southern Hemisphere). The timing of the pick is crucial:

• Early-harvest olives are greener, yielding robust, peppery oils with higher polyphenol content (the antioxidants that give structure and bite).
  

• Late-harvest olives are riper, producing smoother, fruitier oils with a gentler profile and golden hue.
  

Producers choose their harvest moment based on desired flavor, cultivar, and market style — much like vintners deciding when to pick grapes. In many small groves, olives are still hand-harvested, preserving fruit integrity and reducing bruising before pressing.

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From Fruit to Paste: The Milling Process

Once harvested, speed is essential Olives begin to oxidize and ferment quickly after picking, so quality-focused producers rush them to the mill — often within hours.

At the mill (frantoio in Italy or almazara in Spain), olives are washed and ground into a thick paste using hammer or blade mills. This paste contains both oil and water, and the goal is to separate the two while preserving the delicate aromas and flavors.

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Malaxation: The Quiet Transformation

After milling, the olive paste is gently mixed in a process called malaxation. This slow churning (usually 20–40 minutes) allows small oil droplets to coalesce into larger ones — a critical step for flavor development. Temperature control here is key: to qualify as cold-extracted or cold-pressed, the process must stay below 27°C (80°F) to prevent flavor loss and preserve antioxidants.

Professionals often compare this stage to maceration in winemaking or blending in distilling — it’s where texture, balance, and character begin to emerge.

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Extraction: Separating Liquid Gold

Modern producers use cen, the purest and highest-quality grade, obtained mechanically without chemical refinement or excessive heat.

The remaining byproduct, called pomace, can be repurposed for compost, fuel, or lower-grade oil production, aligning with sustainable agricultural practices.

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Storage & Bottling: Protecting Freshness

Fresh olive oil is like fresh juice — vibrant, aromatic, and best enjoyed soon after production. It’s typically stored in stainless steel tanks under nitrogen or inert gas to minimize oxygen exposure and light damage. When bottled, dark glass or tins help preserve quality, and clear labeling ensures transparency on harvest date, origin, and cultivar.

Much like wine, olive oil evolves over time — but rather than aging, it gradually loses intensity. The best producers encourage consumption within 12–18 months of harvest for peak flavor.

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Craft in Every Step

From the meticulous timing of the harvest to the precision of cold extraction, making olive oil demands the same attention to detail that defines great winemaking and distillation. For beverage professionals, understanding this process transforms olive oil from a simple pantry item into a crafted product — one that speaks of place, producer, and philosophy.

For travelers, visiting a working mill during harvest reveals a world alive with sensory energy — the hum of machinery, the scent of fresh-cut grass, and the taste of vivid green oil straight from the press. It’s an experience that captures both the science of extraction and the soul of the Mediterranean.

On the Road to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery

I am very embarrassed to admit that this was my first visit to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery. And Culpeper is only about an hour drive away. In any case, it was well worth the visit. Our group tasted through a flight of beer, wine, and had a very impressive lunch from their Green Ribbon Kitchen. Beef Bourguignon for me.

The beer flight consisted of the Big Iron Lager, Harvest Ale 2025, Sunburnt Farmer, and Pure and Simple Stout. The later was excellent, served on Nitro, and paired nicely with the stew.  The Harvest Ale 2025 was another standout brewed with 100% malted wheat and blended with Vidal Blanc pressings. Thus the vintage label. The Big Iron Lager is an American Pre-prohibition lager with more body than expected. I also wonder if a little rice makes it into the mash bill. Finally, the Sunburnt Farmer is an amber farmhouse house brewed with rye and wheat.  Expect a very distinct profile.

The wine flight wove us through their Vidal Blanc, Rosie's Rose, Petit Verdot, and Bacchanalia Reserve (Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot blend). The reds were a surprise - my favorites of the flight. Nicely done. The Vidal Blanc is finished off-dry but the prolific acidity brightens the sugar blending it seamlessly into the tropical and stone fruits.  

Beer Centric: Kellerbier -- A Taste of Germany’s Cellar-Fresh Tradition

The next Beer Centric profile is Kellerbier -- a style that we are seeing more often -- most recently at Juicy Brewing Company with their Schultz. Few beer styles capture the essence of "from the cellar to the glass" like Kellerbier. Literally translating to "cellar beer", Kellerbier offers a glimpse into the origins of German lagering and the unfiltered, naturally conditioned beers that shaped Bavaria’s brewing identity. 

A Brief History of Kellerbier

Kellerbier traces its roots to Franconia, a historic brewing region in northern Bavaria. Before refrigeration and modern filtration, brewers stored their beers in cool underground cellars or Kellers to ferment and mature. These spaces were often carved into hillsides or caves and provided stable temperatures ideal for bottom-fermenting yeast, which thrives in cooler environments. 

During the 16th and 17th centuries, Bavarian brewers perfected this technique, leading to the development of lagers as we know them today. But while many of those early beers evolved into clear, refined styles like Helles or Pilsner, Kellerbier remained raw, rustic, and closer to the brewer’s original intent—unfiltered, naturally cloudy, and full of flavor.

Traditionally, Kellerbier was served directly from the lagering barrel in the cellar. These early versions had a shorter shelf life but were celebrated for their freshness, soft carbonation, and malty depth.

How Kellerbier Is Made

At its core, Kellerbier is a young, unfiltered lager, typically brewed using traditional German ingredients and methods. The malt bill typically involves Pilsner malt or a mix of Pilsner and Munich malts to achieve a balanced golden-to-amber color and a gentle malt sweetness. German noble hops -such as Hallertau Mittelfrüh, Tettnang, or Spalt - are added to provide delicate herbal and floral notes. Kellerbier employs lager yeast (Saccharomyces pastorianus), which ferments at cooler temperatures (around 8–12°C / 46–54°F). The beer is then cold-conditioned for several weeks to smooth out rough edges, though it is typically packaged and served before full maturation—retaining a slightly yeasty, bready character. Unlike filtered lagers, Kellerbier remains naturally hazy with yeast and proteins suspended in the beer. It is often naturally carbonated in the keg or bottle, giving it a gentle, creamy mouthfeel rather than a sharp carbonation.

Styles and Variations

There are two main variations of Kellerbier: Helles Kellerbier (or Zwickelbier) and Dunkles Kellerbier.  Helles Kellerbier is generally pale golden, lightly hopped, smooth, and slightly sweet. Zwickelbier—named after the Zwickel sample tap used to taste beer directly from the tank—is essentially a lighter, younger version of Kellerbier. In contrast, Dunkles Kellerbier is amber to deep copper in color, with toasted malt and caramel notes. This style is closer to the original Franconian cellared lagers.

The Essence of the Olive: Introducing Our Olive Oil Series

Few ingredients in the world of food carry as much heritage, versatility, and symbolism as olive oil. For thousands of years, this golden liquid has nourished civilizations, inspired poets, and defined entire culinary traditions. From the rocky hills of Greece to the sun-drenched groves of Spain, from the ancient presses of Italy to the emerging producers of California and beyond, olive oil remains a cornerstone of culture, craft, and cuisine.

In this new series, we’ll explore olive oil from root to bottle — uncovering the stories, science, and people behind it. We’ll delve into how geography and climate shape its character, how different olive varieties yield distinctive aromas and flavors, and how modern producers balance innovation with ancient methods. You’ll learn what makes an extra virgin truly “extra,” how to taste olive oil like a professional, and how to pair it with food and wine.

Join us on this journey through groves, mills, and markets as we uncover the world of olive oil — one harvest, one taste, one or two stories at a time.

So let's jump in. What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)? 

Extra virgin olive oil is the highest quality grade of olive oil, made exclusively from the first cold-pressing of olives without heat or chemicals, resulting in a superior flavor, aroma, and higher nutritional value. The cold-pressing retains more antioxidants, polyphenols, and vitamin E, contributing to its anti-inflammatory properties and health benefits. Finally, the olive oil must have a free acidity level of 0.8% or less and is assessed by a tasting panel to ensure it has no defects and a distinct fruity character. 

In contrast, virgin olive oil has a higher acidity level (between 0.8% and 2.0%) and may have minor defects detectable by taste, making it less flavorful and less nutritious than EVOO.  Virgin olive oil is often produced by blending refined olive oil with a small amount of virgin or extra virgin oil to improve its taste and color, which reduces its health benefits compared to EVOO. Since virgin olive oil is typically lighter in color, milder in flavor, and less expensive than extra virgin olive oil it is more suitable for cooking at higher temperatures where its flavor is less critical.

The production of EVOO requires olives to be harvested at optimal ripeness and processed quickly (often within 90 minutes) to preserve quality, while virgin olive oil can be made from olives with higher acidity or from later harvests.  The production process will be covered more in depth next week with From Tree to Taste: How Olive Oil Is Made.

Fattoria Poggio Alloro is an agritourism destination providing spectacular views of San Gimignano and the surrounding rolling hills. The farm is located 40km southwest from Florence and only 5km from San Gimignano.  The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow everywhere on their property. There's a multitude of agricultural commodities grown on the one hundred hectares from grapes; fruits; vegetables; and grains: barley, oats, corn, sunflowers, durum, wheat, farro; and olives.

More specifically 1,500 olive trees that are used in the production of extra-virgin olive oil. The Leccino, Moraiolo, and Frantoio varieties are completely hand picked in November, and then cold pressed to guarantee superior quality.   Their EVOO has a golden yellow color with light green tones and has a stone fruit, slightly spicy flavor with an intense finish.