Grape Spotlight: Kakheti Kisi from the Republic of Georgia

Last week I attended a Wines of Georgia seminar and tasting that intentionally or not tied the Republic of Georgia’s wine identity to its indigenous grape varieties, many of which have been cultivated for millennia across diverse climatic and geological zones.  Among these is Kisi -- a white grape native to eastern Georgia and historically associated with the Kakheti region. It is valued for its ability to produce both classical European‑style wines and traditional qvevri wines, each expressing the grape’s naturally aromatic profile, moderate acidity, and textural depth.

Georgia's landscape hosts ten officially recognized wine regions and these viticultural zones span a range of elevations influenced by the Greater and Lesser Caucasus Mountains. This creates distinct microclimates from humid western regions to the drier continental east. Eastern Georgia, where Kisi is most prevalent, experiences warm summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal temperature variation. These conditions help maintain acidity in white grapes despite high sunlight exposure. Soils vary by valley and slope position but commonly include alluvial deposits, loam, gravel, and pockets of calcareous material. These well‑drained soils support moderate vine vigor and steady ripening. Georgia’s long‑standing use of buried clay qvevri vessels also affects the final wine profile by enabling stable fermentation temperatures and extended maceration when desired.

Kakheti is characterized by a dry climate, abundant sunshine, and the influence of cool air descending from the Caucasus foothills. Vineyards are typically planted between 400 and 800 meters in elevation, with soils composed of alluvial layers, loam, and gravel that promote drainage and root penetration. These conditions support consistent ripening and allow growers to choose between early harvesting for higher acidity or later harvesting for fuller aromatics. 

Kisi has been traditionally grown in limited quantities but the grape is currently experiencing a modern revival surrounding its historic home in the Alazani Valley and surrounding foothills. Here growers value the grape for its moderate acidity, aromatic potential, and adaptability to both traditional qvevri and modern European‑style winemaking. The grape typically produces wines with stone‑fruit and citrus characteristics in stainless‑steel or neutral‑oak fermentations, while qvevri vinification with extended skin contact yields amber‑colored wines with firmer tannins, dried‑fruit notes, and increased textural weight. I tasted examples of both of these styles at the Wines of Georgia tasting.

Orgo Winery is known for its emphasis on traditional qvevri winemaking and its use of older vineyards in Kakheti -- many with at least 50 year old vines. The winery is a project of the famous Georgian wine maker Gogi Dikishivili, who is often referred to as the "godfather of qvevri wine". He was one of the first winemakers to ever bottle and export qvevri wine and is universally acknowledged a pioneer of the revival of the qvevri wine technology in Georgia. Following this process, the Orgo Kisi 2024 underwent fermentation and aging in qvevri, resulting in an amber wine with a notable tannin presence and extended skin‑derived phenolics, plus surprising salinity. Orgo wines are available in the United States through the Georgian Wine House.

Koncho & Co Winery is based in the Kvareli area of Kakheti, where vineyards benefit from the Alazani Valley’s alluvial soils and the moderating influence of nearby mountain ranges. The winery was established using the foundation of the Konchoshvili wine cellar (dating back to 1737) with the goal to "find and cultivate extinct and endangered Georgian indigenous vine varieties and produce the exclusive wines from grapes harvested in these vineyards".   Their Kisi Qvevri 2019 ($28) is naturally vinified through spontaneous fermentation by wild yeast. The wine remains on grape skins and stems for six months in buried clay vessels, developing tannin structure and extended phenolic depth, and is then aged an additional six months in oak barrels. The wine is available in the United States through Qvevri Wines online store. 

Ashaneli Winery operates in Kakheti with a focus on indigenous varieties and a combination of traditional and modern techniques. Their wines generally follow a fruit‑forward, European‑style approach that emphasizes freshness, moderate alcohol, and clear varietal aromatics. The Ashaneli Kisi Kakheti 2024 $17.99) reflects this style, produced through controlled stainless‑steel fermentation to preserve primary fruit character and maintain balanced acidity. Ashaneli’s vineyards benefit from Kakheti’s warm, dry climate and well‑drained alluvial and loamy soils, which support consistent ripening. This wine demonstrates how Kisi can be expressed without extended skin contact while benefiting from the regional terroir associated with eastern Georgia. Ashaneli wines are available in various retail outlets in a dozen states.