Celebrating Martinje through Northern Croatia

November 11th (12th in the Eastern Church) is the Feast of St. Martin of Tours, and although he is the patron saint of France, St. Martin still receives devout reverence in Eastern Europe and the Balkans. He was born in Pannonia (present-day Szombathely, Hungary) in the early 4th century and after being baptized into the Catholic community and leaving the Roman army, Martin became a missionary in the provinces of Pannonia and Illyricum (now in the Balkan Peninsula).  Staying true to the Nicene Creed, he was forced out of Illyricum by the Arians and eventually returned to Gaul where he was made bishop of Tours.

During his years as Bishop, Martin nurtured an immense love for wine and began blessing the beverage in order to make it more popular among laypeople. Throughout Europe, this tradition has continued with winemakers giving thanks to St. Martin for a good harvest - and especially in Croatia, where Martinje celebrates the day that must, or young wine, matures into wine fit for drinking.  Since must is considered impure, before indulging the wine, it has to be baptized which turns it into chaste wine.

Each year, the Martinje celebration in the United States is facilitated by our friends at Croatian Premium Wine and often through the Embassy of Croatia. This year they are presenting a Masterclass (Martinje in Northern Croatia) which includes an opening by The Ambassador of the Republic of Croatia,  H.E. Pjer Šimunović and an overview of gastronomy in the North Croatia region by Leila Krešić-Jurić, Director NA, Croatian National Tourist Board.

Northern Croatia encompasses two distinct wine regions: the Croatian Uplands and Slavonia & Danube. The Croatian Uplands cover the central and northwestern portions of the country, including Međimurje, Zagorje, Prigorje, Plešivica and Moslavina. Its continental climate and hilly terrain favor white grape varieties, particularly Rhine Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sylvaner, Welschriesling and Yellow Muscat. The region also preserves several indigenous varieties, including Škrlet from Moslavina, Pušipel from Međimurje and Kraljevina. Although predominantly white-wine country, Pinot Noir and Blaufränkisch (Frankovka) are also cultivated.

Slavonia & Danube occupies eastern inland Croatia within the Pannonian Basin, bordered by the Danube, Drava and Sava rivers. It is Croatia's largest wine-producing region, with approximately 5,800 hectares of vineyards and annual production exceeding 30 million liters. Its moderate continental climate, characterized by cold winters, warm summers and abundant sunshine, combines with varied soils, including river-derived alluvial deposits and vineyards over older geological formations, to create favorable conditions for viticulture. Slavonia's six subregions are Daruvar, Đakovo, Feričanci, Kutjevo, Slavonski Brod and Orahovica. Graševina (Welschriesling) is the dominant grape, accompanied by Rhine Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Traminer.

The Danube wine-growing area, particularly around Ilok in the far east, has a viticultural history predating Roman rule, with early cultivation attributed to the Illyrians. Located along the western reaches of Fruška Gora, the vineyards occupy elevated southern and southwestern-facing slopes, generally between 200 and 250 meters. Their exposure provides abundant sunlight, while the porous soils contribute to the area's distinctive growing conditions. Graševina, Rhine Riesling and Traminac (Traminer) are among the principal varieties. Ilok's winemaking heritage also reflects centuries of development, including the 17th-century expansion of vineyards and construction of distinctive wine cellars by the Odescalchi dukes.

Ilok Cellars (Iločki podrumi) is one of Croatia's oldest and most historically significant wineries, with winemaking traditions dating back centuries. In 1450, Nikola of Ilok constructed a 100-meter-long wine cellar beneath his castle, which was built on the foundations of the former Roman fortress of Cuccium. Wine production continued during the Ottoman occupation (1526–1688), and in 1697 the castle and surrounding estates passed to the Italian aristocratic Odescalchi family. The family expanded the cellars and further developed viticulture in the area. In 1710, they introduced Gewürztraminer (Traminac) to the Principovac vineyard, a distinctive single-vineyard site near their summer residence.

The winery's reputation became closely associated with Traminac, particularly its celebrated 1947 vintage, which was served at the coronation celebration of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. A member of the Traminer family and a relative of Gewürztraminer, Croatian Traminac is characterized by considerable aromatic intensity, a full-bodied palate, and a rounded texture.  Ilok Cellars continues to cultivate vineyards across the rolling plateaus of Fruška Gora, overlooking the Danube. The winery owns approximately 360 hectares of vineyards, with its principal growing sites at Principovac and Vukovo -- located just south of Ilok. While Traminac remains its signature variety, the winery also produces Graševina, Rhine Riesling, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and several red wines, including Frankovka (Blaufränkisch) and Cabernet Sauvignon.

During the Masterclass, I will sip the Iločki Podrumi Quality Traminac 2022, an ancestor of the 1947 Traminac selected for Queen Elizabeth’s coronation in 1953 and the 2019 vintage served at King Charles’ coronation in 2023.  The grapes are grown in the Srijem vineyard from the Vukovo hills where the vines extend deep into porous flagstone soils.  This is a soft wine, floral and honeysuckles on the nose, ripe stone fruit (those familiar with quince rakija will notice a similar fruit profile), and modest acidity.  Elegance for a queen.

Grape Spotlight: Salento IGP Susumaniello through Conti Zecca's Cantalupi

The Salento IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) encompasses the Salento Peninsula in southern Puglia, the southeastern heel of Italy's boot, covering areas within the provinces of Lecce, Brindisi, and Taranto. Surrounded by the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, the region benefits from a warm Mediterranean climate, abundant sunshine, and cooling coastal breezes. The designation allows considerable flexibility in grape varieties and blending, encouraging both traditional expressions and more contemporary winemaking. With its combination of indigenous grapes, maritime influences, and diverse soils, Salento has become one of Puglia's recognizable wine-producing areas.

Susumaniello is an indigenous red grape variety from Puglia, grown primarily in the Salento Peninsula, particularly around the provinces of Brindisi and Lecce. DNA research has established that it is a natural cross between the white-wine grape Garganega and an old Puglian table grape known as Uva Sogra. The name Susumaniello is generally associated with somarello, the Italian word for donkey. This is thought to reference the grapevine's considerable productivity when young, producing abundant bunches that weigh down the vine like a donkey carrying a heavy load. As the vines age, yields naturally decline, making the variety more suitable for quality wine production.

Historically, Susumaniello was used in blends to add color, structure, and acidity to wines made from other regional varieties. Renewed interest in indigenous Puglian grapes has encouraged producers to bottle it as a varietal wine. The grape produces deeply colored wines with good acidity and noticeable tannins. Typical flavor characteristics include red and dark berries, cherries, and sometimes herbal or earthy notes. Its natural acidity and tannic structure make it suitable for pairing with roasted meats, grilled vegetables, and regional dishes featuring tomato-based sauces.

The Zecca family has been farming estates in central Salento since 1580 when Francesco Antonio Zecca moved to Leverano. In 1884, Pope Leone LEO XIII bestowed the title of Count upon Giuseppe Zecca because of the family's role in developing the region. In the early 20th century the first bottles were produced and in the post War era, the cellar was modernized leading to the first Conti Zecca wine label: Donna Marzia. In modern times, they operate four estates all closer to the Ionian coast that cover 320 hectares of vines.

Cantalupi is one of these estates and was first planted by Francesco Del Balzo after the Second World War and then passed down two generations to Cristiana Capece Minutolo. Miss Minutolo began overseeing the farm at 25 years old and while saving and tending the farm met Mario Zecca, whose vineyard was on the other side of the dirt country road separating the two properties.  "From that union, Masseria Cantalupi became part of the Conti Zecca winery, which from those grapes produces some of its most important wines."

The Cantalupi Susumaniello carries the Salento IGP designation. The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and matured in cement. This approach allows the wine to retain its fruit character without introducing oak flavors. In the glass, it displays a ruby-red color, with red berry fruit accompanied by vegetal notes. It is balanced, with smooth tannins and sufficient acidity to maintain freshness. A lovely wine.