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| theCompass view of Vermont's 30+ wineries & cider houses |
* Two recent books are Richard Leahy's Beyond Jefferson's Vines: The Evolution of Quality Wine in Virginia
Focusing on the world of wines, beer, and spirits that we experience through our travels at WineCompass.com and theCompass Craft Beverage Finder.
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| theCompass view of Vermont's 30+ wineries & cider houses |
With the supply of inexpensive wine growing, the challenge is to find brands that exceed the quality you would expect from this category. I received three such wines from Motto Wines, a new brand which sources California grapes and produces the wine at an SRP of $15. The brand markets themselves as producers of bold, rich, fruit forward wines by fermenting lots separately then blending right before bottling to create the most favorable profile. I found that claim true for their 2013 GUNG HO Red Blend (14.5%) - 60% Zinfandel, 23% Petit Verdot, & 17% Petite Sirah. The wine was aged for 10 months in a combination of
older and once-used barrels as well as stainless steel tanks. This wine was quite pleasant with soft fruit flavors with a juicy creamy texture and easy tannins. Very approachable. My next favorite was the 2013 UNABASHED Zinfandel (14.5%). Made in the same fashion as the Red Blend, this wine is more fruit forward, with a spicy red cherry profile and the same soft tannins, albeit with a little more spice. The final wine, 2013 BACKBONE Cabernet Sauvignon (14.5%), just didn't make an impression. Same production method, but the aroma started hot and the fruit fruit flavors intertwine with the tannins in a race to the finish. These wines may not be as Bold and Rich as advertised, but the Red Blend is a good buy at this price range. Cheers.
As for the wineries, a good place to start is Oak Ridge Winery. This is the oldest operating winery in the Lodi AVA and started in 1934 as a wine making cooperative of local grape
growers. In 2001, Rudy Maggio and his partners, Don and Rocky Reynolds
purchased the winery and retained many aspects of the historical
property - for instance the building for Lodi's first tasting room.
Today the winery produces several brands including its signature Old Zin Vines
(“OZV”). The wine is made from grapes harvested from 50-100 year old
zinfandel vines spread throughout the winery's various estate vineyards.
- Currently productive vines
- Vines planted no later than 1960
- At least one third of vines traceable to the original planting date
2012 OZV Old Vine Zinfandel ($14, 13.95%) - includes some Petite Sirah and Merlot, but primarily Zinfandel from 50-100 year old vines. The wine is both creamy and jammy with slight spices throughout. It finishes with very easy tannins.
Hungary is where I first became interested in wine, sipping dry Furmint and semi-dry Olaszrizling at the Budapest Great Market Hall followed by Kadarka and Kekfrankos on trips to Eger and Sopron. During my recent trip to Budapest I looked forward to revisiting the world of Hungarian wine; but never imagined that I would stumble upon the Junibor Wine Festival held at St. Stephen's Basilica. The festival featured wines from the Hungarian Young Winemakers' Association and represented all the major Hungarian wine regions from Sopron in the west to Tokaj to the east. Although the winemakers are relatively young, most of the wineries were from well established family wineries where the next generation was asserting their influence.
Seems like a nice rum product right? Nope. The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTP) which regulates the labeling of alcoholic products at the federal level will not classify this product as Rum. To the bureaucrats, rum is a "spirit distilled from fermented juice of sugar cane, sugar cane syrup, sugar cane molasses, or other sugar can by-products" -- not from maple syrup. Otherwise, as an uninformed consumer you'd be confused.
Yes, wine was obviously the focus of the 2015 Wine Bloggers Conference, but the Finger Lakes also provides ample opportunities to sip other locally produced boozy products. It started with beer when I first arrived in Corning. The Market Street Brewing Co. was only a few blocks from the host hotel and with a few hours to kill before the bus left for the Seneca Lake pre-excursion, I settled in with a sampler. The beers range from Lager to IPA, Wit to Red to Brown, with the simple Mad Bug Lager dampening the driving nerves and refreshing the palate.
Cider made it's first appearance during the Seneca Lake pre-excursion at our visit to Ventosa Vineyards where Autumn Stoscheck was pouring the Eve’s Cidery Autumn’s Gold Traditional Method Sparkling Cider. This cider received many compliments and thanks to Tom Wark, during the conference I was also able to sample more sparkling cider from Eve's such as the 100% varietal Northern Spy and orchard designate Beckhorn Hollow. This last was my favorite, probably from it's pronounced tartness and citrus profile. It's produced from a complex blend of Golden Russet, Wealthy, Wixson, Cox Orange Pippin, Northern Spy, Manchurian Crab, Spigold, and Idared apples. Tom also shared their Essence Ice Cider, made using cryo-concentration (the freezing of late harvest juice). There's plenty of sugar at 15%RS, but completely balanced with the apple's inherent malic acidity.
Another brewery that showed well at the conference was The Brewery of Broken Dreams, who poured under the tent at lunch.They are located on Keuka Lake in Hammondsport and offered three solid beers at the conference: Summer Blues Wheat Ale, Our Daily Enkel Belgium Styled Ale, and All-4-One American Pale Ale. Another Keuka Lake brewery, LyonSmith Brewing Co., supplied a couple growlers for our mystery bus excursion destined for Keuka's Inn. The brewery specializes in British styled ales, with the 1814 Flood Porter the first choice of many. Named after the tragic London flood caused by the rupture of a large fermentation tank of Porter, it's a smooth beer with a hint of hops and plenty of mocha flavors.
Finally, the post-excursion Cayuga Lake offered a couple other opportunities to sample Finger Lakes cider and spirits. Bellwether Hard Cider provided a few ciders starting with their King Baldwin, an off-dry cider that comes across very dry with the apple's acidity factored in. It's a blend of Tompkins King and Baldwin, thus the name. Their Northern Spy based Bellwether Lord Scudmore sparkling cider is also very tasty with tart citrus flavors.
At our dinner at Knapp Vineyards & Winery we were introduced to that winery's distillates featuring Limoncello and a Cucumber Vodka. The vodka was fresh and clean, little burn; whereas the lemon and lime Limoncellos were two distinct beings - both reminiscent of the appropriate fruit - oily and refreshing to the palate. ![]() |
| Campos Reales Tempranillo |
| Garnacha/Cariñena | Roble |
| Garnacha/Carignan/Syrah |
| Pedro Ximenez, NV |
August's #WineStudio sessions concludes tonight with more tasting and information regarding the cider industry in general and New Hampshire's Farnum Hill Ciders in particular. My previous post focused on the cider house's origins and philosophy. Last week, the focus was on cocktails and the industry in general with several cider houses and #tastemakers participating.Getting started early w/ @tiltedshed Graviva @_spiritworks Sloe Gin & @AppleEllie Orleans Bitter #winestudio— Darlene Hayes (@allintocider) August 19, 2015
You don't see much kegged cider because most retailers and wholesalers expect the kegged cider to be priced similar to beer. Only the mass produced ciders have the economics of scale to price at that level. Plus these massed produced ciders are mostly likely made from concentrated juice, not freshly pressed.
Perry
@casalargawinery the 2010 Fiori Delle Stelle Vidal Ice Wine 41 year old winery ; delicious apricot and acids #wbc15 pic.twitter.com/JBQW14oHQn
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
@LamoreauxWine single vineyard Red Oak Riesling honeysuckle aroma nice acids #flxwine #wbc15 pic.twitter.com/aEj3BttlFQ
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
2014 Boundary Breaks #239 Dry Riesling late Oct harvest; dry, lemons; long finish #wbc15 #flxwine pic.twitter.com/2aPypZwPBJ
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
#wbc15 #flxwine Hazlet Vineyards 4 clones of Sauvignon Blanc. Early harvest. pic.twitter.com/lKpTKxmtXe
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
@MontezumaWinery Edelzwicker Riesling & Gewurztraminer blend. Big aroma, easy finish; $14 #wbc15 #flxwine pic.twitter.com/LFKLmwqyKZ
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
Glad to meet Dave Peterson @GooseWatchWines '14 Traminette dry, lemon, high acids #wbc15 pic.twitter.com/feV1UFSyDI
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
@LucasWinetalk 2014 Semi Dry Riesling honeysuckle aroma; balanced acids #wbc15 #flxwine pic.twitter.com/RLDzNwTrOd
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015
@BellangeloWine 2013 semi dry riesling acids don't overwhelm great flavor #wbc15 #flxwine pic.twitter.com/gQ1IUADJQw
— WineCompass (@winecompass) August 14, 2015

How many wine trails are there where you can ride a boat straight to a winery's dock? According to boat captain, Captain Skip Stamberger of Water to Wine Tours, the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail is the only trail in the world that provides that option. It's hard to validate that claim, but for those of us who participated in the post-conference excursion, we experienced a leisurely boat ride from the Thirsty Owl Wine Company dock to Goose Watch Winery.
In 1983 the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail was the first wine trail established in NY State and currently consists of 16 wineries. When looking at the map, Cayuga Lake is represented as the index finger to the east of Seneca Lake. Ithaca is located on the southern shore and Seneca Falls on the northern end with the wineries dispersed on either shore. There's also a brewery, cider house and a few distilleries.![]() |
| Cayuga Lake from Goose Watch Winery |
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| Goose Watch Winery |
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| Knapp Winery |
Cheers to the wineries on Cayuga Lake and in the Finger Lakes in general. Check out theCompass Winery, Brewery, Distillery Locator Mobile App to make future trips to the area easier to plan.Chef John McNabb of Knapp Vineyard Restaurant served Smoked beef brisket with johnny cakes and Hoisin Poblano, Limoncello Chimichurri an Cabernet & Caramelized Onion demi sauces accompanied by fingerling potato and quinoa salads. Also served were the Calabacitas with corn tortilla ships, Cayuga Caviar and sour cream. The chocolate chunk cookie to go was also provided courtesy of Chef John.
Chef Lindsay of Crystal Lake Café at Americana Vineyards offered a house-made sausage, pan-fried chicken and deviled eggs. Jennifer, the resident baker, provided the baguette during the tasting session and the lemon bars and pecan squares for dessert.
Chef Scott of The Bistro at Thirsty Owl Wine Co. served smoked pulled pork with coleslaw and barbeque beans. Scott also provided the Peanut Butter Corn Flake cookie.