Fine Wines from Austria: A Curated Embassy Tasting with Klaus Wittauer

Our visit to the Austrian Embassy during the EU Open House began with a seminar titled Fine Wines from Austria, led by Klaus Wittauer of KWSelection and hosted by Decanter Wine Boutique. Over the course of tasting nine curated wines, Wittauer guided the room through Austria’s landscapes, grape varieties, and producers with an ease that comes only from long familiarity. His commentary blended regional insight, stylistic context, and personal stories from each winery, turning the seminar into a compact tour of Austria’s wine culture. By the end, the experience felt less like an introduction and more like an invitation—one that makes you want to book a flight and continue the exploration firsthand.

The Steininger Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2025 comes from Weingut Steininger, a family‑run estate in Langenlois in the Kamptal region of Lower Austria, an area known for its cool nights, loess soils, and a long tradition of precise, aromatic winemaking. While Cabernet Sauvignon is not the dominant red grape of Kamptal - or even Austria, Steininger has built a reputation for crafting focused, elegant rosé from this international variety. Cabernet Sauvignon’s naturally thick skins and structured tannins soften beautifully when handled gently, producing a rosé with crisp red‑berry fruit, subtle herbal tones, and a refreshing mineral backbone. The wine reflects Kamptal’s ability to translate even non‑native grapes into expressions of clarity and finesse, shaped by the region’s diurnal shifts and limestone‑influenced soils.

The Paul Dired­er Gemischter Satz 2025 represents one of Austria’s most historic wine styles: a true field blend harvested and fermented together. Paul Dired­er, based in the Wagram region, works with traditional mixed plantings that include varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Müller‑Thurgau, Fruhroter Veltliner, and others depending on the vineyard. Wagram’s deep loess soils give these blends a signature texture—round, lightly creamy, yet still lifted by bright acidity. Gemischter Satz is prized for its layered aromatics and natural balance, and Dired­er’s version captures the charm of the style: orchard fruit, white flowers, citrus, subtle spice, and a seamless palate. 

The Steininger Ried Loisium Grüner Veltliner 2024 Kamptal DAC Reserve comes from a single vineyard adjacent to the LOISIUM wine center in Langenlois, where Grüner Veltliner thrives on a mix of primary rock and loess. Steininger is widely respected for its precise, terroir‑driven expressions of Grüner, and the Loisium site produces a particularly vibrant style. Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s flagship white grape, shows its classic traits here: white pepper, citrus, green apple, and a clean mineral line. The vineyard’s exposure and soil composition give the wine both freshness and depth, making it a benchmark example of Kamptal’s ability to produce Grüner with structure, tension, and longevity.

The Steininger Ried Kittmannsberg Grüner Veltliner 10WT Erste Lage 2023 offers a contrasting expression from another of the estate’s important single vineyards. Kittmannsberg sits slightly higher and benefits from cooler airflow, producing a Grüner Veltliner with more concentration and a deeper, more textural mid‑palate. The soils here—loess over ancient bedrock—allow Grüner to develop ripeness without losing acidity. The wine often shows richer notes of stone fruit, subtle smokiness, and a more pronounced peppery finish. It is a study in how site variation within Kamptal can shape the same grape into distinct personalities, each with its own sense of place.

The Heinrich Hartl Rotgipfler Gumpoldskirchen Thermenregion 2023 highlights one of Austria’s rarest and most regionally specific grapes. Rotgipfler is native to the Thermenregion, south of Vienna, where limestone‑rich soils and warm breezes from the Pannonian plain create ideal conditions for this aromatic, full‑bodied white variety. Heinrich Hartl is known for championing local grapes such as Rotgipfler and Zierfandler, producing wines that balance richness with precision. Rotgipfler typically shows ripe tropical fruit, floral notes, and a distinctive creamy texture supported by lively acidity. Hartl’s version captures the grape’s natural generosity while maintaining elegance, making it a standout example of a variety found almost nowhere else in the world.

The Ruttenstock Riesling Alte Reben 2023 is a blend of Himmelreich and Steinleiten fruit that comes from the Kremstal region, where Riesling thrives on steep terraces of primary rock and gravel. Weingut Ruttenstock is a family estate that focuses on clean, expressive white wines shaped by the region’s cool climate and stony soils. Riesling from Kremstal tends to be taut, aromatic, and mineral‑driven, and Ruttenstock’s bottling reflects these traits with notes of citrus, peach, and crystalline acidity. The wine’s structure and purity speak to the region’s ability to produce Rieslings that offer both approachability and aging potential.

The Paul Dired­er Zweigelt 2024 is a classic, easy‑drinking expression of Austria’s most widely planted red grape. Zweigelt, a crossing of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, is known for its juicy cherry fruit, soft tannins, and versatility. Dired­er’s version, bottled in a generous one‑liter format, emphasizes freshness and drinkability—an everyday wine meant for the table. Wagram’s loess soils give the wine a round, supple texture, while the grape’s natural vibrancy keeps it lively. It is a straightforward but well‑crafted example of why Zweigelt remains a staple of Austrian red wine culture.

The Steindorfer Apetlon Rouge 2022 comes from the village of Apetlon in Burgenland, near Lake Neusiedl, where warm temperatures and sandy soils create ideal conditions for red blends. Weingut Steindorfer is known for producing expressive wines that highlight the region’s ripeness and sun‑driven character. This Apetlon Rouge vintage is a blend of 40% Blaufränkisch, 30% St. Laurent, and 30%vZweigeltv-- crafted into a smooth, fruit‑forward style. The wine shows dark berries, gentle spice, and soft tannins, reflecting Burgenland’s reputation for approachable yet flavorful reds shaped by the lake’s moderating influence.

The Heinrich Hartl Ried Kräutergarten Pinot Noir Thermenregion DAC 2021 showcases the Thermenregion’s growing reputation for cool‑climate red wines. The Kräutergarten vineyard, with its limestone soils and favorable exposure, allows Pinot Noir to ripen slowly, developing aromatic complexity without losing freshness. Hartl’s approach emphasizes finesse and purity, producing a Pinot Noir with red cherry, forest floor, and subtle herbal notes—true to both the grape and the site. The wine demonstrates how the Thermenregion, once known primarily for white varieties, has become a source of elegant, Burgundian‑styled reds shaped by its unique geology and microclimate.

The Virginia: Birthplace of American Spirits Collection

The Virginia: Birthplace of American Spirits Collection is a limited‑edition three‑bottle release created by the Virginia Spirits Guild to commemorate America’s 250th anniversary and to highlight the Commonwealth’s foundational role in early American distillation. Produced in partnership with the Virginia Spirits Board, the Virginia American Revolution 250 Commission, and Virginia ABC, the collection represents one of the most collaborative blending efforts in the state’s modern craft‑spirits era, with only 2,400 sets made available statewide. 

The trio includes a botanical gin, a four‑grain whiskey, and an aged rum—each designed to reflect a different geographic and historical dimension of Virginia’s distilling heritage. The gin was crafted by Peter Ahlf and Kimberly Nuckols of Mt. Defiance Cidery & Distillery with blending support from Barry Haneberg of Virago Spirits and Peter Morgner of Vitae Spirits. It draws on a London Dry structure featuring Italian juniper, angelica, coriander, orris root, and lemon peel layered with Virginia botanicals such as pawpaw, rose, sassafras, and sumac to evoke the aromatic character of the state’s mountain landscapes. 

The whiskey is a blend of select barrels from Ironclad Distillery, Virginia Distillery Co., Catoctin Creek, and Reservoir Distillery anchored by a five‑year bourbon, then a seven‑year American single malt, a seven‑year rye whiskey, and a six-year wheat whiskey to represent the grain‑rich agricultural heartland that shaped early American whiskey traditions. 

The rum, guided by Barry Haneberg of Virago Spirits with support from Vitae Spirits, Belmont Farm, and Chesapeake Bay Distillery, reflects Virginia’s Tidewater history and its longstanding connection to maritime molasses trade, resulting in a coastal‑influenced rum rooted in early colonial production. 

All three bottles are housed in a triptych‑style box illustrated by Norfolk artist Mark Todd, depicting the James River flowing from mountains to heartland to coast—a visual metaphor for the waterways that carried Virginia’s spirits traditions across four centuries. Together, the collection serves as a once‑in‑a‑generation tribute to Virginia’s claim as the birthplace of American spirits and the enduring craft that continues to define the state’s distilling community.

EU Open House Day at the Washington D.C. Embassies

On Saturday we quasi-floated down the Danube River by visiting four Central European embassies -- tasting through regional cuisine in conjunction with a plethora of surprising wine options. (Yes, Czechia technically doesn't border the river, but close enough.). We started at the Austrian Embassy with a cheese and cheery strudel breakfast before entering an hour long "Fine Wines from Austria" class on Austrian wine presented by Klaus Wittauer of KWSelection and hosted by Decanter Wine Boutique. We tasted nine curated wines from a non traditional Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé and Rotgipfler to the more traditional Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch-Saint Laurent-Zweigelt blend, and Pinot Noir. My favorite was the Steininger Ried Loisium Gruner Veltliner 2024 Kamptal DAC Reserve.

Unfortunately, next door at the Slovakian Embassy, the line to sample the available wines and mead were too long for a short time frame so we savored a smoked sausage then moved on to their geographic sibling Czechia. 

This embassy presented a full blown beer garden atmosphere with a live band, dancers, sausages and goulash, sweet and savory pastries, Pilsner Urquell, and wine. There were two sets of wine tasting, one from Wine of Czech Republic and the other by Spevak Winery. I plan on diving deeper into their terroir and grape varieties but on first glance it appears they share some similar grapes to neighboring Austria - such as Gruner, Blaufrankish, Pinot Noir - but have a deeper affinity towards Sauvignon Blanc as well as cultivars bred for the Bohemia and Moravia environments. These include Pálava (Gewürztraminer and Müller Thurgau), Cabernet Moravia (Cabernet Franc and Zweigelt), and Cabernet Cortis (Cabernet Sauvignon and Solaris -- a white wine grape variety originally bred in Germany in 1975). I was very impressed with the age-ability of Spevak's 2017 Cabernet Cortis - as it retained plenty acidity lifting the jammy fruit. Expect much more to follow on the subject of Czech wine.\

Our final stop was a stroll down hill towards Rock Creek Park and the Hungarian Embassy. They were presenting plenty of dancing, gypsy and classical music, more goulash, chicken paprikas, and a small but excellent assortment of Hungarian wine. We went straight to the Böjt Egri Bikavér and the accompanying white partner: Egri Csillag. The first is a masterful blend as required according to the Bikavér regulations and built on a backbone of Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch) -- 50%. This is followed with Pinot Noir (18%), Blauburger (18%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%), and Zweigelt (7%). The Böjt Egri Csillag is made based on the regulations requiring Carpathian-basin varieties. This wine is a blend of Olaszrizling (Welschriesling) (46%), Leányka (32%), Sauvignon Blanc (16%), and Muscat Ottonel (6%). Fantastic wines to sip watching the Vizslas run across the embassy grounds. 

The April Freeze That Rewrote the 2026 Vintage: Virginia and Maryland’s Grape Losses

The Mid‑Atlantic wine industry is no stranger to weather drama, but the April 21st 2026 freeze and radiational frost carved its own chapter into regional history.  After an unseasonably warm March pushed vines into early budbreak, a sudden plunge into the low 20s°F delivered a blow that many growers describe as the most severe in decades. This was a hard freeze - not simply frost - and even the most orchestrated mitigation efforts had no affect. Other wineries experienced radiational frost where the heavier cold air flowed to the lower lying vineyard plots, pushing up the warmer air. What followed was not just a crop loss -- it was a structural shock to both Maryland and Virginia, whose wine economies have matured into nationally recognized industries.

Frost mitigation in vineyards and orchards centers on one goal: keeping developing buds and blossoms above the critical temperature at which tissues are damaged. Growers typically combine site selection, canopy management, and active frost‑control tools to reduce risk. Cold air drainage is foundational -- orchards and vineyards are often planted on slopes or elevated benches so dense, freezing air can flow away rather than pool around vines or trees. Within the block, growers maintain open alleyways and avoid windbreaks that trap cold air. These passive strategies don’t eliminate frost risk, but they significantly reduce the frequency and severity of damaging events.

When temperatures drop toward freezing, growers turn to active interventions. Wind machines or helicopters -- for businesses with deeper pockets -- mix warmer air from the inversion layer with colder surface air, often raising temperatures by 2–4°F across several acres. Potassium-based sprays add a useful physiological buffer to the broader frost‑mitigation toolkit used in vineyards and orchards. When applied ahead of a cold event, potassium strengthens cell membranes, improves osmotic balance, and supports carbohydrate movement -- factors that help buds tolerate slightly lower temperatures before injury occurs. Overhead irrigation is another widely used method: as water freezes around buds, it releases latent heat, keeping tissues at 32°F even when ambient temperatures fall lower. Some regions rely on heaters or strategically placed burn barrels or wood piles to raise temperatures. 

Yet, on April 21st, when the freeze arrived, most vineyards were past the point where wind machines, fires, or helicopter downdrafts could meaningfully help. Growers across the region described the same morning scene: blackened shoots, collapsed leaves, and the unmistakable smell of frost‑burned vegetation. In Maryland, the damage spread from the western shore of the Chesapeake to the Blue Ridge Mountains, with the most severe cases found in the Catoctin Valley along the Route 15 corridor. Many wineries reported 90-100% loss of both primary and secondary buds.  For instance, Black Ankle Vineyards - a very respected producer - lost their entire 2026 crop.

In Virginia, the damage was widespread, most notably, from the Loudoun Valley, the Shenandoah Valley, and throughout the Monticello AVA. In that historic American Viticultural Area, wineries also reported 90-100% loss of both primary and secondary buds.   Apple and pear orchards in the Shenandoah Valley were particularly hit hard because an earlier April frost had damaged many primary buds and the April 21st event killed off the secondary shoots. 

Secondary buds sit beside the primary bud within the compound bud. When the primary bud is damaged, the secondary bud typically survives and can push a new shoot in spring. This replacement shoot is vital. First, it restores canopy growth, allowing the vine to photosynthesize and rebuild carbohydrate reserves. Second, it often produces fruit, though usually fewer clusters than a primary bud would have. In short, they act as the vine’s built‑in backup system, ensuring both fruiting potential and the maintenance of vegetative growth needed for long‑term vine health.

In theory, vines planted on higher plots are safer from the radiational frost since the heavier cold air flows to the lower areas.  And, in theory, early budding grape varieties like Pinot Gris would be more susceptible to frost damage.  And Virginia's Three Fox Vineyards lost most of these plantings. In Maryland, Catoctin Breeze Vineyard owner Adam Fizyta reported they lost 100% of their Albariño - an early to mid budding variety.  And in an informative blog post, the The Vineyards at Dodon detailed that in their region just west of the Chesapeake Bay, "Only the vineyards along the Chesapeake and at 6-800 feet above a valley floor survived unscathed..."

However, these expectations were not uniformly felt. Melissa Aellen, winemaker at Maryland's Linganore Winecellars, informed us that a plot of Petit Verdot (which traditionally buds early) that was planted at a higher elevation survived mostly intact and will account for some of the 10% of estate vines that survived. Similarly, but in contrast, Keith Morris, the General Manager at Big Cork Vineyards reported that about 80% of their Petit Verdot survived, but these vines were planted at the winery's lowest plots. 

Another example showing the unpredictability of the damage occurred in Lindon, Virginia -- located just east of Front Royal. Over several Facebook posts, Jim Law of Linden Vineyards reported that for the first time the famous Hardscrabble Vineyard was hit by frost with a possible 20–30% crop loss, unusually high for a vineyard known for its frost resilience. However just across Route 66 to the North, Capstone Vineyards, Crimson Lane Vineyards, and Fox Meadow Winery - a trio of vineyards surrounding St. Dominic's Monastery - fared with only minimal damage.  Yet, on the western edge of Front Royal, Reitano Vineyards lost their entire 2026 crop.

Courtesy of the Virginia Farm Bureau

In those Facebook posts, Jim Law also summarized what growers in the Mid-Atlantic are experiencing. "Finally as to the lower parcels that were completely frosted, we are just hoping they can be back in production for 2027. These poor vines have already experienced two years of sap sucking Spotted Lanternflies, two drought years, and a severe winter. Initial growth is generated by stored carbohydrates from the previous growing season. This spring those frosted shoots had already used up a lot of their reserves, so we worry about how much more is now available."

The Maryland Department of Agriculture called the freeze "one of the most significant crop losses in recent memory." The Virginia Wineries Association characterized the event as one of the most significant frost episodes in 15–20 years. But, economically, what does it mean? Particularly since wineries in Virginia and particularly in Maryland were already working off a 40-50% reduction in yields from 2025 because of several weather and pest events. 

In a lengthy blog post titled 2026, the Lost Vintage, Drew Baker of Burnt Hill Farm and Old Westminster Winery states that both wineries suffered a 100% loss in primary buds equating to a loss of 100 tons of fruit. On average, one ton of grapes yields about sixty cases of finished wine, or 720 bottles; thus 100 tons of lost fruit translates to roughly 72,000 bottles of wine never actualized. Drew also reminds us that, "The fruit may be gone, but the expenses are not. Payroll remains. Equipment costs remain. Repairs remain. Farming inputs remain. We still have a full time team farming these vines. We still have to mow, tuck shoots, manage canopy, monitor disease pressure, train trunks, control weeds, maintain trellis, and make careful decisions block by block."

In addition, the uneven ripening of any remaining primary and secondary shoots will add more to labor costs; this event created even more vineyard maintenance.  As Jim Law states, "With strategic and meticulous thinning some will have a full crop and others a partial crop. However there could be a lack of uniformity. Vines should have even separation between shoots and clusters so each receives the same amount of sun and air flow within the canopy. But in the 'partially frosted' vines we will have clumps of fruitful shoots, crowding some areas and at the same time gaps along the trellis where nothing is growing. Eventually new shoots will emerge with clusters that will be weeks behind. This would lead to uneven ripening and poor wine quality (what we refer to as an 'underripe/overripe' profile). We need to remove the clusters by hand before color change in August while we can still see a distinct difference. By harvest time they would all look the same, but taste very different." And this could delay harvest waiting for these clusters to ripen. Keith Morris conjectured that he wouldn't be surprised to see harvest last into mid-late November for many growers. 

What are producers doing next? Most Maryland farm wineries operate under a Class 4 Limited Winery license where they must either have planted 20 acres of estate vines or "at least 51 percent of the ingredients used in the annual production of the license holder’s wine are Maryland-grown agricultural products".  According to a spokesperson for the Maryland Department of Agriculture, the state has not yet issued a uniform exemption to this regulation, but impacted wineries can can apply for individual exemptions.  The situation is very similar in the Commonwealth. The Virginia ABC requires "Farm Wineries" to grow or lease a specified percentage of the fruit used in the production of their wines -- usually 51%. Wineries can apply for a Fruit Loss Exemption Waiver with the Virginia Department of Agriculture and purchase outside fruit.

Wineries are scrambling to source fruit from other regions. Big Cork Vineyards was able to sign contracts with several Maryland growers on the Eastern Shore that were not overly impacted by the April 21st event.  Several wineries mentioned that they are pivoting to New York - specifically the Niagara Escarpment and Finger Lakes. The Texas Hill Country is another option wineries are exploring, particularly for those wanting to replace lost Tempranillo, Tannat, Viognier, and Syrah.  Washington state and Lodi are other available options. 

The event has also showcases the collaborative nature of the industry. Yes, in one sense these wineries are competitors, but they also see each other as family and will be assisting each other to survive. For instance, expect wineries to band together when sourcing outside fruit in order to generate economies of scale. They will then contract this fruit or juice to smaller wineries at the discounted price - a price small wineries would never be able to receive on their own.  

What should consumers expect?  Smaller 2026 releases. Lots of library wines. Expect wineries to present more vertical tastings. Expect wines labelled American and not estate or AVA specific. But mostly, expect a plunge in the supply of local wine. Even before this event, Big Cork Vineyards had much less red wine in barrel due to the smaller 2025 yields. The same is probably true for other Maryland and Virginia wineries.  Consumers can help these wineries remain afloat by visiting or targeting local wines. We didn't list all the wineries that suffered damage, but we recommend treating each as if they lost everything. Visit WineCompass.com to plan a trip to wine county. 

The Layered World of Papa’s Pilar: Solera Aged Rum

After numerous trips to Key West, I finally scheduled a tour and tasting at the Hemingway Rum Company – Papa’s Pilar Distillery. Many visitors recognize the brand’s distinctive bottle shape, which I learned is modeled after Hemingway’s GI canteen. According to the distillery, he carried two—one for water and one for rum—an anecdote that frames how the brand links its production philosophy to Hemingway’s life and to the island’s maritime history. Papa’s Pilar was founded by Steve Groth (who also co‑founded Angel’s Envy Bourbon) with the approval of the Hemingway family. The name comes from Pilar, Hemingway’s fishing boat, and Groth’s first major decision was hiring seventh‑generation Master Distiller Ron Call, whose 45‑year career includes decades with Cruzan Rum and other Florida distilling operations.

The distillery occupies a former naval warehouse within one of Key West’s main tourist corridors, and the tour centers on the history of rum production, the development of the brand, the sourcing of its blends, and the role Hemingway’s life plays in shaping its identity. The distillery uses this connection as a framework for explaining its focus on exploration, blending traditions, and global rum influences.

The tour began with an overview of Caribbean rum production, starting in Barbados and the British Navy, and then tracing how “kill‑devil” rum moved north into the American colonies. One local historical detail stood out: when George Washington’s older half‑brother, Lawrence Washington, inherited the family estate, he renamed it after Edward Vernon, a friend and vice admiral in the British Navy. The rum connection comes from Vernon’s 1740 order requiring sailors’ rum rations to be diluted with water—a mixture that became known as “grog,” after Vernon’s nickname, “Old Grog.”

Moving further inside the facility, visitors see the solera-style aging system that defines much of Papa’s Pilar’s production. The brand blends rums from multiple regions -- Caribbean, Latin & South America, and Florida -- before aging and finishing them on-site. The tour highlights how different barrels contribute to the final profiles, with explanations of the role played by ex-bourbon, port, and sherry casks. This approach reflects the company’s goal of creating rums that echo the layered, traveled character associated with Hemingway’s journeys rather than tying the product to a single geographic origin.

The tour briefly stopped between the copper pot still and column still for a broad overview of the distillation process. Using test tubes, the guide showed examples of each stage from the distillations to the various aging within the solera. 

The visit ended with a sampling of several expressions including Rye finished and Sherry finished rums.  My favorite was the Papa's Pilar Flagship Blonde Rum which after distillation is Solara blended and finished in ex-Bourbon barrels and Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks.  Enjoy neat to savior the vanilla and banana notes or in a Mojito. The Papa’s Pilar Dark Rum is richer, drawing on a broader mix of aged components and deeper finishing casks to create a more robust profile. This maturation includes ex-Bourbon barrels, Port barrels, and Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks. Then there's the 
Papa’s Pilar Sherry Cask Finish Rum. It begins with the dark blend, then undergoes final maturation in 20-year-old Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks. Expect additional layers of nuts, spice, and toffee. Finally, the Papa’s Pilar Rye-Finished Rum is intense. It starts with the same aging process as the Dark Rum, but then finishes in  American rye whiskey barrels that provide loads of spice and black pepper. 

The tour is highly recommended regardless of where you stand within the drinks business hierarchy or a fan of Hemingway, himself. The distillery uses its connection to Hemingway as a historical anchor, not a marketing gimmick. And visitors will get a clear history of rum as well as the  blending, aging, and the decisions behind each Papa's Pilar expression.

Grape Spotlight: The Stover Grape

"The Stover grape is a hybrid cultivar developed by the University of Florida’s breeding program. It is a yellow/bronze small grape. The flavor is mild and free from excessive sweetness or tartness. Clusters are medium size and the sugar content is 17-18% with a mild taste. ‘Stover’ is a golden-fruited, long-lived variety with improved dessert and holding qualities. The fruit ripens in July and August." - Fiorelli Winery

Specifically, the Stover grape cultivar was developed at the Leesburg Agricultural Research Center and is named in honor of Loren Stover (1898–1993), Florida’s "Mr. Grape". Stover was a pioneering horticulturist who developed this variety in 1956 to be resistant to Pierce’s disease and other fungal issues prevalent in Florida’s humid climate. The cultivar is a cross between Mantey and Seyve‑Villard 12‑309. Mantey is a self‑fertile seedling of unknown parentage, but derived primarily from Vitis coriacea Shuttleworthii and contributes disease resistance, heat tolerance, and adaptation to the southeastern U.S. Seyve‑Villard 12‑309 or Roucaneuf (developed by breeder Bertille Seyve at the Seyve‑Villard program in France) is complex French hybrid with ancestry rooted in V. vinifera and V. rupestris and contributes fruit quality, cluster structure, and improved table‑grape characteristics.

Fiorelli Winery & Vineyard, located just outside Bradenton Florida, grows Stover and uses the grape in their semi-sweet Chill white white wine. The winery was founded in 1998 by Antonio and Rosa Fiorelli, Sicilian immigrants from Casteldaccia.  Antonio began cultivating the estate with fruit bearing trees and a few grape vines and soon the operation expanded to 7.5 acres of vines and a full estate operation with dedicated production and tasting facilities. The grapes consist of several Florida‑adapted muscadine varieties -- including Noble, Carlos, and other bronze and black muscadines -- along with bunch‑grape hybrids such as Blanc du Bois and Conquistador. Their portfolio includes dry to semi‑sweet table wines, muscadine‑based reds and blushes, and fruit wines made from blueberry, strawberry, peach, and apple. 

The Essence of the Olive: How do Olive Trees Pollinate

A couple weeks ago I saw a post from Cobram Estate discussing wind‑driven pollination and decided this topic needed a deep dive in The Essence of the Olive. Many olive trees are self-fertile - such as the Greek Koroneiki cultivar planted in Laconiko's orchards. On the other hand, other olive trees require a compatible partner to achieve meaningful fertilization. According to Cobram Estate, "Our groves are designed with wind pollination in mind to optimize pollination across all varieties. We grow over 12 different types, a mix of both fertile and self-fertile olive varieties, which helps ensure that our trees can thrive, even in different conditions. The design of our groves and careful selection of varieties helps maximize both cross-pollination and self-pollination, ensuring healthy, high-quality olives." Let's dive deeper. 

Olive trees (Olea europaea) rely on a strictly wind‑driven pollination system in which large quantities of lightweight pollen are released from the anthers (1) and dispersed through the canopy and across nearby trees. The flowers themselves are small and pale, producing no scent or nectar, which is consistent with anemophily (wind pollination) rather than insect‑mediated pollination. Each inflorescence contains both perfect flowers, which have functional male and female organs, and staminate flowers, which contain only stamens and contribute primarily to pollen production. During bloom, airborne pollen grains land on receptive stigmas, germinate, and grow pollen tubes toward the ovule. Successful fertilization depends on both environmental conditions—such as moderate temperatures and dry weather during anthesis—and the genetic compatibility between the pollen and the flower receiving it.

Although olive trees produce abundant pollen, many cultivars exhibit partial or complete self‑incompatibility, meaning that their own pollen is unable to fertilize their flowers effectively. In these cases, the pollen tube is slowed or blocked before reaching the ovule, resulting in very low fruit set when only a single cultivar is present. Even cultivars considered self‑fertile often show improved fruit set, more regular bearing, and higher yields when cross‑pollinated by a genetically distinct variety with overlapping bloom. The degree of self‑compatibility varies widely: some cultivars can set fruit with their own pollen under favorable conditions, while others require a compatible partner to achieve meaningful fertilization. Because wind dispersal is most effective over short distances, orchards typically interplant compatible cultivars within the same block to ensure that pollen from one variety reaches the flowers of another during the brief window of stigma receptivity.

In practical terms, the presence of multiple varieties is not universally required, but it is beneficial in most production settings and essential for self‑incompatible cultivars. Cross‑pollination supports more consistent fruiting, reduces the risk of poor set in years with marginal weather, and aligns with the reproductive biology of a species that evolved to favor outcrossing. As a result, orchard design commonly incorporates at least two cultivars with synchronized bloom periods to take advantage of the natural wind‑driven pollination system that underpins olive reproduction.

(1) Anthers are the pollen-producing structures located at the tip of the stamen, which is the male reproductive organ of a flower. The primary function of the anther is to produce, store, and release pollen for plant reproduction.  When the pollen is mature, the anther undergoes a process called dehiscence, where it splits open to disperse the pollen grains via wind, insects, or other animals, facilitating fertilization of the female parts of the flower.

Tropical Wine in South Florida's Schnebly Redland's Winery

Florida’s Redland agricultural district is a historic farming region in southern Miami‑Dade County, defined by its distinctive red clay soils over oolitic limestone (sedimentary rock formed from ooids, spherical grains composed of concentric layers) and a long tradition of subtropical and tropical crop production. Settled in the early 20th century after the expansion of Henry Flagler’s Florida East Coast Railway, the area became a hub for mangoes, avocados, lychees, and other fruits rarely grown at scale elsewhere in the continental United States.

Schnebly Redland’s Winery leverages it's Redland location by growing and sourcing tropical fruit within a four mile radius of the agricultural district for their innovative fruit‑based winemaking. Known as the southernmost winery in the continental United States, the operation was started by Peter and Denisse Schnebly and offers an immersive experience shaped by waterfalls, tiki huts, and expansive gardens. The tasting room and grounds are surrounded by coral stone blocks and thatch roofs, enclosing the facility in a tropical village. Entering the grounds visitors pass a koi pond and then to a large covered pavilion. 

The winery produces a range of dry to sweet still and sparkling wines from avocado, lychee, mango, coconut, guava, pineapple, carambola (starfruit), and passion fruit. Quite a portfolio.  I've been a fan of their dry avocado wine (AvoVino) for many years - I just find it truly unique and flavorful.  Why avocado wine?  The story goes that was an avocado  field where the fruit was too overripe for resale, so they tested their ability to make wine out of the single-seeded berry. And it worked.  The Carambola was another top choice providing a juicy pear-like profile finishing with a little almond bitterness. Oddly, it was very similar to to a Herzegovina Žilavka that we opened the next day.  Finally, the off-dry CocoVino - made exclusively from coconuts - was our third option.  Think lemons and coconuts.  The winery had a special purchase three with a free bottle and we choose the semi-sweet Mango - just to have a wine with a stronger tropical profile and to eventually experiment with some rum cocktails.  

Although we didn't spend too much time at the winery, Schnebly Redland's Winery is a destination with a restaurant, live music pavilion, and the Miami Brewing Company within the complex. Try the Big Rod Coconut Ale to stay in the tropical theme. 

Exploring Old Town Key West’s Distilleries and Breweries

Exploring Key West’s craft beverage scene is unusually simple thanks to the close proximity of several notable producers. Within a short walking radius in Old Town, visitors can move from two rum distilleries to three breweries while learning about the history behind each brand and the products they make. Key West Legal Rum, Papa’s Pilar Rum, Southernmost Pint Brewpub, The Waterfront Brewery, and First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery each offer a distinct perspective on local production, yet all are easy to visit in a single, unhurried loop.

Start your tour along the harbor at The Waterfront Brewery and enjoy lunch and a flight watching the boats sail in. The brewery opened a decade ago and produces a wide range of beers including pilsners, IPAs, porters, and rotating specialty releases. Its production facility and taproom share the same building, allowing guests to see the brewing equipment while sampling the core lineup. Their Crazy Lady Blonde Golden Ale is a stable throughout the island and you can probably find Island Life Lager in several establishments - definitely at Hanks. For my money, go with the Danny Gunz ESB (Extra Special Bitter).

Head west from the harbor and enter the life of Ernest Hemingway. Papa’s Pilar Rum is named after Hemingway’s famous boat and the brand was created to reflect the writer’s connection to Key West and his global travels. The distillery occupies a former naval warehouse and produces blended rums sourced from multiple regions, aged and finished on-site. Core products include the Blonde Rum and Dark Rum, each with defined profiles shaped by solera-style aging and barrel finishing. I highly recommend the tour which provides excellent information on the history of molasses and rum production through the eyes of the British Navy and American colonists.  

The tour turns to Hemingway's life and how the distillery incorporates various aspects such as the unique bottle shape -- mimicking Hemingway's GI canteen. Apparently he carried two canteens, one filled with rum. The visit ends with a sampling of several expressions including a Rye finished rum and Sherry finished rum.  My favorite was the Papa's Pilar Flagship Blonde Rum which is sourced from several sources from the Dominican Republic, Venezuela, Panama, and Florida; then Solara blended and finished from ex-Bourbon barrels and Spanish Oloroso Sherry casks.  Enjoy neat to savior the vanilla and banana notes or in a Mojito. 

Key West Legal Rum was founded by chef and entrepreneur Paul Menta and operates out of a restored 1900s-era tobacco warehouse -- just a block away from Papa's Pilar. The distillery focuses on small-batch, pot-distilled rums made from Florida sugarcane. Their lineup includes the Key West First Legal Rum (a white rum showcasing the Demerara sugar cane),  Key West Bad Bitch Rum Spanish Marie (aged in French oak barrels that held Pinot Noir wine for seven years.) and several flavored expressions that highlight local ingredients such as Key lime and coconut. Yet, their most interesting and tasteful product is the Key West Raw and Unfiltered Rum.  It is aged in new American oak barrels with a #3 char where each barrel was cured in salt water from the ocean. As the salt dries on the inside of the barrel, it seals in and condenses the rich flavors of the charred American oak. This rum is very complex - lots cooking spices covered in honey.

Moving along, the Southernmost Pint Brewpub is only a few minutes away. Founded by Tadd Maudlin with the Blast Beer Company, the brewpub focuses on approachable, island‑appropriate beer styles. For instance, the 3.3% and fantastic English Dark Mild: Birmingham Pub. Include that beer in every flight. I continued with the Southernmost Pint Golden Ale, Heck Yeah Helles Lager, Key West Cream Ale, and Key Lime Gose Sour. All were delicious and right on style - particularly the Cream Ale which avoided the sweet lactose overdose of many versions and concentrated on crystal clear flavors.  You won't find a stop with this range of delicious expressions. 

Finish your excursion with the longest segment -- passing Sloppy Joe's, Rick's, and Captain Tony's -- to First Flight Island Restaurant & Brewery. The brewery is located in the building where Pan American World Airways was founded in 1927, the site originally served as the airline’s first office and ticketing headquarters.  Thus, expect an aviation theme.  In that regard, before rebranding in 2017, the location was home to Kelly’s Caribbean Bar, Grill & Brewery -- owned by Top Gun actress Kelly McGillis. The brewery produces a core lineup of Old Havana Red Amber Ale,  Capt. Maverick IPA, and the Sunset Clipper Citrus Wheat.  Unfortunately the restaurant was hosting a wedding during our visit, so we detoured across the street to Hank's Hair of the Dog Saloon and a meal at Garbo's Gill paired with the Waterfront's Island Life Lager. 

What ties these five locations together is their accessibility. All are situated within a compact section of Old Town, eliminating the need for transportation and allowing visitors to move easily from one producer to the next. The short distances make it possible to learn about the history of each brand, understand the products they make, and experience Key West’s beverage landscape in a single, efficient route. Cheers to Key West and these unique craft beverage producers. 

The Essence of the Olive: Understanding Moroccan Olive Oil

Morocco is one of the world’s major olive‑oil‑producing countries, with a cultivation history that stretches back thousands of years. Archaeological evidence indicates that wild olive trees existed in the region as early as the 9th millennium BC, and scholarly debate continues over whether indigenous Berber communities may have domesticated olives before Phoenician traders arrived around 1000 BC. Linguistic evidence supports this possibility: the Berber word for the cultivated olive tree, Azemmour, has no Semitic roots, suggesting an origin predating Phoenician influence. The Romans later expanded olive cultivation significantly. During the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, the Romans established extensive groves and oil‑pressing facilities across Mauretania Tingitana, with archaeological sites such as Volubilis preserving well‑designed ancient mills that illustrate the scale of production during this period.

Olive growing has remained embedded in Moroccan agriculture and daily life ever since, with many families continuing to manage small groves using practices passed down through generations. Today, Morocco produces roughly 140,000 to 250,000 metric tons of olive oil annually, depending on harvest conditions, and maintains more than 1.2 million hectares of olive trees across diverse microclimates. 

The country’s olive sector is dominated by a single cultivar, Picholine Marocaine, which accounts for approximately 96% of national production. It is a Moroccan variant of the French Picholine olive from the Languedoc region. This variety produces oils that are typically fruity, slightly bitter, and peppery, with notable almond‑like notes and naturally high polyphenol content. Beldi is an umbrella term for local, heirloom Moroccan varieties which includes Moroccan Picholine. Two additional varieties - Haouzia and Menara - are also cultivated, contributing robust or milder, buttery characteristics to blended oils .

Olive trees thrive across several key regions, each contributing distinct characteristics to the country’s oils. Meknes is widely recognized as Morocco’s primary olive‑oil region and holds Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status for its extra virgin oils. The Fez–Marrakech plains contain extensive traditional orchards that tend to produce slightly bitter, structured oils, while coastal areas such as Essaouira and Agadir yield more delicate, fruity profiles. High‑altitude groves in the Atlas Mountains add further diversity due to their unique microclimates . Harvesting typically occurs from October to January, often by hand to avoid bruising the fruit. Olives are then transported quickly to mills, where both traditional stone presses and modern centrifugal systems are used. Cold‑pressing remains standard practice to preserve quality and minimize oxidation, supporting the production of extra virgin oils with strong sensory and nutritional attributes.

This Moresh Moroccan Extra Virgin Olive Oil was available through Publix, but its also sold through Wholefoods. Its the first Moroccan olive oil with traceability - with all single origin information available through scanning the QR code on the bottle. This information includes origin, harvest dates, bottling date, test results, and certifications. The Beldi Moroccan Picholine olives for this bottle were grown from dry sun drenched estates throughout Morocco mostly from Marrakech, Meknes, and Fes. This oil contain a number of early harvested olives which elevate the polyphenol count to 360 mg/kg at bottling. The olive oil starts with a smooth buttery almond flavor that eventually leads to a slightly peppery and bitter finish. 

Grape Spotlight: San Marco from Trentino-Alto Adige to the Outer Coastal Plain AVA

San Marco is a Vitis vinifera red wine grape created in 1993 by breeder Marco Stefanini at the Fondazione Edmund Mach in Trentino-Alto Adige. It is a cross of the very popular Trentino-Alto Adige grapes Teroldego × Lagrein in order to create a wine grape that ripens fully in cooler climates; resist botrytis better than its parents; and still produced deeply colored and structured wines. 

In 2011, Larry Coia of Bellview Winery visited the Foundation Edmund Mach and learned about EC02 - the name originally given to this grape. Trentino-Alto Adige experiences hot summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal shifts which are conditions similar to parts of the U.S. East Coast. Thus, through his recommendation,  the following year the Outer Coastal Plain Vineyard Association (OCPVA) imported the grape into the U.S.. Following release from quarantine, the OCPVA trademarked the name as San Marcus and through a petition from Bellview Winery, the TTP approved use of San Marco as a registered grape variety.

The Outer Coastal Plain AVA, established in 2007 and expanded in 2017, stretches across 2.25 million acres of southern and southeastern New Jersey, making it one of the largest and most quietly influential winegrowing regions on the East Coast. The region’s defining feature is its uniform soil profile—well‑drained sandy and sandy‑loam soils derived from ancient coastal sediments, naturally low in fertility and pH, which help control vine vigor and encourage deep rooting. Climatically, the AVA benefits from a 188‑ to 217‑day growing season, moderate rainfall, and the moderating effects of the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, which reduce frost risk and temper heat spikes.

San Marco thrives in environments with hot summers, cold winters, and when planted in sandy and clay soils. It buds late helping to shield from Spring frost and produces medium sized and loose clusters. It seems more suited for VSP training and shares a similar late-midseason harvest as Cabernet Franc. Although it is resistant to botrytis, it is not resistant to black rot or downy mildew.

Autumn Lake Winery, located in Williamstown, New Jersey, is one of the Outer Coastal Plain AVA producers actively developing and releasing wines from San Marco. I was able to sample their 2021 San Marco at the 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition and was impressed with the dark fruit, structure, and smooth tannins shown by this wine. 

The Essence of the Olive: California’s Modern Revival with Cobram Estate

California’s olive‑oil story is a blend of old roots and new energy. Spanish missionaries planted the first olive trees along the coast in the late 18th century, establishing groves that supported local communities for generations. Commercial production expanded in the late 1800s, but it wasn’t until the 1990s that a true quality‑driven revival began. Growers adopted modern milling technology, planted high‑density orchards, and focused on early harvesting to produce cleaner, fresher oils. Today, California is recognized as a leading producer of extra virgin olive oil in the United States, with a reputation built on transparency, strict standards, and a commitment to freshness.

Varieties Shaped by Climate and Craft
California’s diverse climates—from the cool Sonoma coast to the warm Central Valley—support a wide range of olive varieties.

• Arbequina — Widely planted in high‑density orchards, producing smooth, fruity oils with notes of green apple and almond.

• Arbosana — A Spanish variety that thrives in California’s warm valleys, yielding structured oils with herbaceous, nutty tones.

• Koroneiki — Originally from Greece, now common in California for its robust character, high polyphenols, and peppery finish.

• Mission — California’s heritage variety, descended from the original mission plantings, offering a mild, balanced profile with soft fruit and light spice.

Producers often blend these varieties to create oils that balance fruitiness, bitterness, and pungency, while single‑varietal bottlings highlight the state’s microclimates and precise milling practices.

What Defines California EVOO
California’s producers emphasize freshness and clarity. Early harvesting is common, resulting in greener, more aromatic oils with higher antioxidant levels. Modern mills allow olives to be crushed within hours of picking, preserving volatile aromas and minimizing defects. The state’s standards were established by the Olive Oil Commission of California (OOCC) to reinforce quality by requiring chemical and sensory testing. Membership is mandatory for producers who produce 5,000 gallons or more of olive oil annually. These standards often exceed international norms such as Free fatty acid or free acidity (FFA), Peroxide value (PV), and Ultra violet absorbency (UV).

Free fatty acid or free acidity (FFA)

A measurement of the breakdown of the fats. It gives some indication of oil quality based on fruit quality and handling. Although FFA does not change much over the life of oil, a lower FFA level at production will contribute to longer shelf life. The California standard is <=0.5 compared to <=0.8. Peroxide value (PV) A measure of peroxide compounds arising from primary oxidation. A high peroxide value usually indicates poor processing, and that the oil might not keep well. The final stage in oxidation is peroxide breakage, resulting in the formation of new compounds that we can perceive as rancid smelling. The California standard is <=15 compared to <=20. Ultra violet absorbency (UV) An indicator of oxidation using the UV spectrum at different wavelengths. K232 is considered a critical marker for good quality extra virgin olive oil. Oxidation is the result of natural aging or indicative of poor handling or heating during the refining process. The California standard is <=2.4 compared to <=2.5.

Producer Spotlight: Cobram Estate
Cobram Estate has become one of California’s most influential olive‑oil producers, combining large‑scale farming with a focus on precision and freshness. Originally founded in Australia, the company expanded into California’s Sacramento Valley, where warm days, cool nights, and well‑drained soils support high‑quality fruit. Their five orchards are planted primarily with Arbequina, Arbosana, and Koroneiki varieties that respond well to early harvesting and modern, high‑density farming. They also operate a nursey in the Sonoma Valley where only the strongest trees are planted in the orchards.

The hallmark of Cobram Estate’s approach is control over every step of production. Olives are harvested mechanically at peak ripeness and milled within hours in their on‑site facility, preserving the green, aromatic compounds that define their style. Their oils are known for vivid fruit, balanced bitterness, and a clean peppery finish -- qualities that have earned consistent recognition in international competitions. They utilize a rigorous in-house lab testing process to evaluate every batch of olive oil to ensure its meets their own and OOCC standards.

Cobram Estate produces four olive oil series, Everyday Essentials, California Select, First Harvest, and the Artisan Collection flavored olive oil. The California Select, and especially the First Harvest, are harvested and processed for providing healthy doses of polyphenols and antioxidants. I received three samples from the Everyday Essentials collection, which the name implies, is designed for daily use. The Mild must contain olives harvested later in the cycle and shows low bitterness, vanilla, and a delayed pepper finish. The Classic shows distinct tropical fruit, low bitterness, and a little less pepper. The Robust provides earthier notes, delayed pepper, and more body than the other two.

Despite their scale, the Cobram Estate maintains a clear focus on stewardship, research, and sustainable farming, positioning them as a leader in California’s rising olive‑oil landscape.

Grape Spotlight: Montenegrin Krstač with 13. Jul – Plantaže

Montenegro’s wine-growing region near Lake Skadar, just 30 kilometers from the Adriatic Sea, is defined by its dramatic geography. The area is bordered by the high mountains of the Dinaric Alps, the Cijevna River, and the Skadar Lake basin, creating a Mediterranean-continental climate with hot summers and mild winters. Soils are diverse, with karst limestone, alluvial deposits, and red clay, supporting a range of indigenous and international grape varieties.

At the heart of this region lies Ćemovsko Polje, one of the largest vineyards in Europe, spanning 2,300 hectares, hosting over 11.5 million vines, and located only 18 miles from the Adriatic Sea. This single complex vineyard is the flagship of 13. Jul – Plantaže, Montenegro’s leading wine producer. The vineyards are boarded on one side by the Cijevna  -- a subterranean river which broke through the rocks and created a picturesque canyon leaving layers of different types of stone where the vines were eventually planted. 

The vineyard is situated on a plateau with an altitude between only 150 and 230 feet and it is surrounded by limestone hills, which defines it as a karst valley with extremely hot and dry summer and slightly cooler winter than in the coastal zone. The area receives an extremely limited amount of precipitation and plenty of sunny hours. But this scorching sun, which shines up to twelve hours a day during the summer is a major challenge along with the skeletal soil composed of chalky limestone, sand and gravel-strewn with many polished pebbles. 

Krstač is a rare, indigenous white grape variety native to Montenegro. It thrives in the warm, dry conditions of Ćemovsko Polje and is known for its delicate floral aromas, crisp acidity, and subtle minerality. Wines made from Krstač are typically dry, light-bodied, and refreshing, often showing notes of white peach, pear, and citrus zest. It has a tight, medium sized cluster that is shaped like a cross -- leading to the name Krstač or Crusader in English. 

13. Jul – Plantaže was founded in the 1960s emerging from a consolidation of farms in Podgorica, Danilovgrad, and Virpazar. Today, it is Montenegro’s largest wine producer and a regional powerhouse, exporting to over 40 countries. According to their website, they are the only winery in the world that produces wine from Krstač.  The grapes harvested from their estate at Ćemovsko Polje are vinified and aged at three wine cellars Lješkopolje (the company’s oldest wine cellar), Ćemovsko Polje (where most of the wine production occurs), and Šipčanik (a former military bunker). 

The grapes for their 2023 Crnogorski Krstač were harvested from Ćemovsko Polje vines with the juice fermented and aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks. This is a surprisingly complex wine, a floral aroma, plenty of green apple and stone fruit, minerality, and a racy elevated finish. Love the acidity.