Grape Spotlight: Salento IGP Susumaniello through Conti Zecca's Cantalupi

The Salento IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta) encompasses the Salento Peninsula in southern Puglia, the southeastern heel of Italy's boot, covering areas within the provinces of Lecce, Brindisi, and Taranto. Surrounded by the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, the region benefits from a warm Mediterranean climate, abundant sunshine, and cooling coastal breezes. The designation allows considerable flexibility in grape varieties and blending, encouraging both traditional expressions and more contemporary winemaking. With its combination of indigenous grapes, maritime influences, and diverse soils, Salento has become one of Puglia's recognizable wine-producing areas.

Susumaniello is an indigenous red grape variety from Puglia, grown primarily in the Salento Peninsula, particularly around the provinces of Brindisi and Lecce. DNA research has established that it is a natural cross between the white-wine grape Garganega and an old Puglian table grape known as Uva Sogra. The name Susumaniello is generally associated with somarello, the Italian word for donkey. This is thought to reference the grapevine's considerable productivity when young, producing abundant bunches that weigh down the vine like a donkey carrying a heavy load. As the vines age, yields naturally decline, making the variety more suitable for quality wine production.

Historically, Susumaniello was used in blends to add color, structure, and acidity to wines made from other regional varieties. Renewed interest in indigenous Puglian grapes has encouraged producers to bottle it as a varietal wine. The grape produces deeply colored wines with good acidity and noticeable tannins. Typical flavor characteristics include red and dark berries, cherries, and sometimes herbal or earthy notes. Its natural acidity and tannic structure make it suitable for pairing with roasted meats, grilled vegetables, and regional dishes featuring tomato-based sauces.

The Zecca family has been farming estates in central Salento since 1580 when Francesco Antonio Zecca moved to Leverano. In 1884, Pope Leone LEO XIII bestowed the title of Count upon Giuseppe Zecca because of the family's role in developing the region. In the early 20th century the first bottles were produced and in the post War era, the cellar was modernized leading to the first Conti Zecca wine label: Donna Marzia. In modern times, they operate four estates all closer to the Ionian coast that cover 320 hectares of vines.

Cantalupi is one of these estates and was first planted by Francesco Del Balzo after the Second World War and then passed down two generations to Cristiana Capece Minutolo. Miss Minutolo began overseeing the farm at 25 years old and while saving and tending the farm met Mario Zecca, whose vineyard was on the other side of the dirt country road separating the two properties.  "From that union, Masseria Cantalupi became part of the Conti Zecca winery, which from those grapes produces some of its most important wines."

The Cantalupi Susumaniello carries the Salento IGP designation. The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and matured in cement. This approach allows the wine to retain its fruit character without introducing oak flavors. In the glass, it displays a ruby-red color, with red berry fruit accompanied by vegetal notes. It is balanced, with smooth tannins and sufficient acidity to maintain freshness. A lovely wine. 

From Oloroso to Pedro Ximénez: Pairing Sherry with Halloween Candy

We do enjoy sipping our craft beverages with Halloween candy and Sherry is a versatile pairing because its range of styles offers different levels of sweetness, acidity, body, and nutty or caramel flavors.

 

Sherry is produced in the Jerez region of southern Spain, primarily from Palomino, Pedro Ximénez, and Moscatel grapes. After fermentation, the wines are fortified with grape spirit and aged using different methods depending on the style. Oloroso is fortified to a higher alcohol level before aging under oxygen, developing its deep color and characteristic aromas of walnuts, pecans, and toasted nuts. These sherries from Gonzalez Byass are excellent examples of their respective styles. Harveys Bristol Cream is a blended cream sherry made by combining different styles of sherry to produce a richer, sweeter wine with notes of nuts and caramel, balanced by acidity. Nectar Pedro Ximénez is made from Pedro Ximénez grapes that are typically sun-dried to concentrate their sugars before fermentation and fortification. The resulting wine is aged to develop its dense texture and flavors of raisins, figs, caramel, and dried fruit.

How do these Sherries work with Halloween candy? Dry Oloroso brings savory complexity and toasted nut characteristics that complement chocolate and peanuts, while cream sherry balances sweetness with acidity and flavors of nuts and caramel. Pedro Ximénez, one of the sweetest styles, has concentrated flavors of raisins, figs, and caramel that work well with rich chocolate, coconut, and chewy caramel candies. The key to pairing sherry with candy is to match the wine’s intensity and flavor profile with the candy’s sweetness, texture, and ingredients.

What is your favorite pairing?

21 Years of WineCompass and Visiting 900+ Craft Beverage Establishments

I just realized that the two recent distillery stops in Louisiana (Jean Baptiste Rum and J.T. Meleck Distillers) pushed me past visits to 900 distinct North American craft beverage establishments. I started documenting these excursions at WineCompass.com and recently using theCompass Craft Beverage Finder. 

I apparently began documenting my travels in May 2005, following a visit to Loudoun County's Tarara Winery during a Memorial Weekend celebration.  Sadly, the process of creative destruction has led to the closure of that winery, my second official stop at Maryland's Catoctin Winery, and 163 other establishments that are no longer operating.

Specifically, over the past 21 years, I have visited 902 distinct establishments over 1,393 total visits. The most frequent stops have been to nearby Caboose Brewing Company and our friends at Corcoran Vineyards & Cider, both of which I've visited dozens of times. These travels have taken me to 32 states plus Washington DC and three provinces consisting of 42 check-ins at Canadian establishments. Of the 902 establishments, 425 are breweries, 334 wineries, 91 distilleries, 44 cideries, six meaderies, and two sake breweries.

theCompass Craft Beverage Finder contains information on 21,218 craft beverage establishments in North America. The application is still only available on Android and Amazon devices; hoping to see an iOS version sometime in 2027.  And winecompass.com has all the same information in an html format. 

Cheers. 

Hiking the Appalachian Trail and Vineyards Views from Silver Dog Vineyards

With my new cyborg hip, I am finally able to hike again and decided to test my body with an excursion along the Appalachian Trail in Linden, Virginia.  The best place to start is the two small parking areas at the intersection of John Marshall Highway (Rt 55) and Rt 725 just east of Linden. For a challenging climb head north over the A.T. Bridge Crossing or for an easier hike, walk south.

But afterwards, be sure to visit one of the five wineries surrounding Linden: Silver Dog Vineyards, Linden Vineyards, Capstone Vineyards, Crimson Lane Vineyards, and Accord Vineyards (formerly Fox Meadow Vineyards). I decided to start my post-hike recovery at Silver Dog Vineyards. I had seen the vineyard many times during visits to Capstone and the winery just opened to the public late this summer.   

Getting to the tasting room is slightly challenging, requiring navigation of a short but steep gravel road. However, the drive also demonstrates how the steep terrain benefits the vines. First, the steep grade allows for ample drainage, ensuring the grapes must struggle for water. Second, the grade and elevation minimize frost damage. This was evident during the April 2026 freeze, when only the lowest-planted vines suffered damage, whereas those at higher elevations survived mostly unaffected.

These vines were first planted in 2018, when Eric Gronning convinced his wife, Lori Robertson, to expand their roles in the wine industry. At the time, they owned Maple, a wine bar and restaurant in the Columbia Heights neighborhood of Washington, D.C. Gronning chose to plant a combination of common French grape varieties, including Petit Manseng, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, along with two Italian varieties less common in the Commonwealth: Barbera and Sagrantino. He utilizes the assistance of Virginia Tech's Virginia Cooperative Extension - a program that provides a wealth of information for potential viticulturists. The grapes are processed and bottled at nearby Blue Valley Vineyard and Winery in Delaplane under the direction of wine consultant John Levenberg. 

Interestingly, the contemporary tasting room is completely off-grid, with solar-generated electricity, water supplied by an on-site well and spring, and captured rainwater used in the vineyard. The energy-efficient design incorporates large overhangs to provide shade in summer and large doors to take advantage of cooling winds, while expansive glass, steel, exposed concrete floors, and American cedar define the building's aesthetic. The tasting bar was also recently enhanced with a large, beautiful wood slab from a tree felled by a storm. These features don't surprise those who know that Eric is also an architect, furniture designer, and wood and steel fabricator through his company, Gronning Architects.

After arriving at this unparalleled tasting room and taking in the scenic views of Capstone and Crimson Lane, a flight of their five wines was in order. All the wines are made from estate grapes. Starting with the 2023 Chardonnay,  I found it well made. The wine combines barrel and stainless-steel fermentation, resulting in a savory mouthfeel balanced by lively acidity.  My overall favorite is their 2023 Rock Island Red - a blend of Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sagrantino.  Think fresh black cherries, a slight earthiness, approachable tannins, and balanced acidity. Their 2023 Barbera was close behind with its bright plum overtones and black pepper spicy kick at the tail. Well done.

Cheers.

Rice, Crawfish and Craft Spirits: A Taste of the Heart of Acadiana with J.T. Meleck Distillers

Our frequent trips to the Hub City have introduced us to unique aspects of south Louisiana’s economy, particularly the dominance of sugar cane in agricultural production and, more interestingly, the relationship between crawfish and rice farming.

In Louisiana, rice and crawfish often thrive in the same fields through a farming system that takes advantage of their different seasonal needs. Farmers typically plant rice in March or April, then seed the slightly flooded fields with adult crawfish a couple of months later.  The rice plants provide crawfish with food, shelter, and a place to reproduce, while crawfish contribute nutrients to the soil through their natural waste, helping support future rice crops.  

In July or August, the rice is ready to be harvested, the fields are drained and the crawfish burrow deep into the mud to escape the summer and fall heat and survive until the fields are flooded again. Soon after harvest the fields are reflooded, triggering the crawfish to return to the surface where they feed on leftover rice stalks, decaying plant material, and tiny organisms in the water until they are harvested from January through May. Many crawfish-rice operations rotate production between fields, allowing adult crawfish from one field to seed the next.

The Meleck family has been farming rice in the Heart of Acadiana for five generations starting in 1896, when John T. Meleck planted his first rice crop in 20 acres of marshland in south Louisiana. The family encountered many problems over the next century, including repossessions but in the early 1980s brothers Mike and Mark Frugé (great-nephews of J.T. Meleck) began rebuilding the family estate by leasing family land back. Starting with crawfish, they added rice back into the equation and eventually were able to repurchase the original estate and more. Much more. Today Frugé Aquafarms encompasses 3,500 acres, with approximately 1,700 acres devoted to each of crawfish and rice production utilizing the alternate year rotation approach.

During a recent visit to the farm, Production Manager Ed Guidry described the symbiotic relationship between the two crops and discussed the generations of Guidrys who had worked alongside the Frugés. He showed us the crawfish processing line where the crop is cleaned and sorted before moving the conversation to our primary interest—the farm’s vertical integration into distilling. Since 2000, the rice market has fluctuated with prices peaking in 2008 (because of a global food crisis) followed by a prolonged slump, with prices bottoming out in 2016. This instability necessitated adding more value to their rice crop. Mike realized that there was no American spirits brand producing a 100% rice whiskey or vodka and as an added benefit, a distilling operation would satisfy the the increasingly popular farm-to-table movement. In 2017, Mike founded J.T. Meleck Distillers and it now consumes 30% of the Frugé's overall rice harvest. 

The distilling facility sits adjacent to Frugé Aquafarms and uses two stills, multiple fermentation tanks, and a large cooker, with the stills used according to the type of distillation run.  Each batch starts with two thousand pounds of Frugé rice milled locally in Crowley - the Rice Capital of America. The rice is cooked for seven hours followed by seven days of fermentation for whiskey and 14 days for vodka. In a typical week, they use 10,000 to 16,000 pounds of rice with each individual distillation run taking 10-12 hours. This operation is managed by Ed and Distiller Brett Hebert - another veteran of Frugé Farms. 

Although most of the distillery’s current production is devoted to whiskey, as evidenced by the more than 2,000 barrels aging in its barrel house, vodka was its first spirit.  The J.T. Meleck Louisiana Rice Vodka ($24.99) is distilled to 191 proof before being slowly proofed down to 80 proof for bottling. Sweetness on the nose is followed by a creamy, vanilla wafer profile. Nicely done. 

In 2022, J.T. Meleck introduced the J.T. Meleck Small Batch American Rice Whiskey ($52.99) aged nearly five years in new American oak barrels. The whiskey comes off the still around 120 proof and after the oak aging proofed down to 96 proof at bottling. They also offer the J.T. Meleck High Proof 118 Small Batch American Rice Whiskey ($67.99) that I thought was a solid option to bring home. Because of its higher proof, adding a few drops of water helps soften the alcohol and bring out the dominant butterscotch and toffee followed by more subtle vanilla and chalky baking spices. This whiskey was awarded the Best Rice Whiskey in the 2026 American Council of Tasters (ASCOT) competition helping J.T. Meleck Distillers to be designated the  2026 Craft Distiller of the Year. Try this whiskey. Cheers. 

The Essence of the Olive: Al’Ard Holy Land Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil

The Christian population of the West Bank has dwindled over the past century, particularly around Bethlehem, the birthplace of Jesus Christ. In 1950, Christians made up approximately 84% of Bethlehem’s population; by 2007, that share had fallen to about 28%, and today, estimates place it about 11%.  The decline reflects a combination of emigration, limited economic opportunities, and political instability. Tourism, an essential source of income for Bethlehem’s families, has also suffered repeated disruptions, particularly during this current period of conflict. Despite these challenges, Christian families continue to maintain churches, traditions, and ties to the land their ancestors have cultivated for generations, preserving a living Christian presence in one of the most historically significant places in the faith.

Representatives of Christians in the Holy Land visited various churches in the Arlington Diocese this month emphasizing these demographic trends and limited economic opportunities.  They also provided opportunities to purchase hand carved olive wood statues and Al’Ard Holy Land Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

Olive oil from the West Bank comes from some of the oldest cultivated groves in the world, tended by families who have farmed the same terraces for generations. Two traditional olive varieties, Rumi and Nabali, reflect this deep agricultural heritage. Rumi is an ancient variety associated with the region’s historic olive-growing traditions, while Nabali, particularly Nabali Baladi, is one of the area's principal cultivars, valued for its suitability for olive oil production and its adaptation to the region’s largely rain-fed farming conditions. Oils produced from these olives can offer a distinctive Mediterranean character, with fresh green aromas, herbal notes, and a peppery finish, although flavor varies with the variety, harvest timing, and production methods. Nabali olive oil is known for its phenolic compounds, which contribute to its bitterness and pungency.  

Al’Ard does not stipulate the varietal blend for the Holy Land Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil but I would suspect that it is higher in the Rumi variety since the olive oil has a green and herbal character with less bitterness as expected. It is very approachable for those seeking a smoother profile. 

Jean Baptiste Spirits: Certified Cajun Heritage Distilled into Louisiana Rum

Louisiana has established several programs and designations to promote agricultural products that are made, grown, or processed in the state through its Certified Louisiana Logo program. These designations include Certified Louisiana, Certified Creole, Certified Craft Beverage, Certified Farm to Table, and Certified Cajun. To qualify for the Certified Cajun logo, a product must be representative of the culture of people generally of Acadian descent, and at least 50% of the product must be made, grown, produced, manufactured, processed, or packed in Louisiana. Jean Baptiste Spirits meets these criteria. Founder Tim Westcott's family has deep Cajun roots, despite his Irish surname, and the distillery sources its molasses and sugarcane within a 12-mile radius of its Broussard facility.

After a long career supporting the oil industry, Tim Westcott drew on his homebrewing experience and nearly 200 years of family tradition to establish Jean Baptiste Spirits, focusing on one of Louisiana's principal agricultural products: sugarcane. The brand is named after Westcott's seventh great-grandfather, Jean-Baptiste Honoré d'Estréhan de Beaupré, a pioneering sugarcane producer in mid-18th-century colonial French Louisiana. This Jean-Baptiste was also a close friend of Jean Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de Bienville, often called the "Father of Louisiana." At the time of his death, he was reportedly the largest producer of tafia, an early, relatively crude form of cane spirit. According to Westcott, Jean-Baptiste's daughter, Marie Marguerite Destrehan, and her husband, Étienne de Boré, inherited one of his sugarcane farms. In 1795, de Boré perfected the process of producing granulated sugar from sugarcane in Louisiana. These innovations helped make sugarcane profitable as a commercial crop, encouraging planters throughout the state to cultivate it on a larger scale.

The distillery currently offers two expressions of rum, both developed through recipes and production processes refined over time through meticulous experimentation. Westcott experimented with different yeast cultures and varying proportions of molasses and sugarcane in the mash bill. Ultimately, he determined that traditional Norwegian farmhouse Kveik yeast offered the optimal combination of flavor and fermentation performance. He also adopted a blend of molasses and sugarcane rather than following the more conventional approach of using molasses or cane sugar alone. Because blackstrap molasses has a relatively low sugar content, adding cane sugar helps provide the fermentable sugars needed for the mash. Both ingredients are sourced locally: the sugarcane comes from the Louisiana Sugar Cane Cooperative (LASUCA) sugar mill, while the blackstrap molasses comes from the C. S. Steen Syrup Mill.

Following a fermentation period of seven to ten days, the resulting wash is reportedly drinkable on its own, a characteristic Westcott discovered during assignments in Southeast Asia. Despite this, the wash proceeds to distillation, where it is brought to 103 proof using a small hybrid pot still. The resulting spirit is clarified through a bed of crushed pecan nutshells before being reduced to 82 proof and bottled as Jean Baptiste Silver Rum Select. This is unlike any silver rum we have tasted. Its character is closer to that of a rhum agricole, with pronounced herbaceous qualities and some grassy notes. The finish is clean, making it a highly approachable rum.

During the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic, when the distillery was still in its infancy, used oak barrels were in short supply. However, J.T. Meleck Distillers, a local rice distillery, was able to provide Westcott with approximately a dozen used barrels that had weathered to varying degrees. Some leaked heavily, prompting Westcott to draw on a family tradition. He remembered his grandmother describing how the inside of barrels could be coated with molasses. The molasses penetrated the wood's fibers and helped solve the leakage problem. The results proved so beneficial that coating the barrels with molasses became a standard practice at the distillery.

This process contributes to the production of Jean Baptiste Rested Rum Reposée, which begins as the Silver Rum Select which is then rested for five to seven months in the molasses-coated barrels. The rum is then finished for at least another month in specially made, lightly toasted Louisiana bald cypress casks. Before bottling, it is brought down to 86 proof. This rum evolves gradually in the glass; it begins with the sweet, herbaceous character of Silver Rum Select before transitioning to subtle baking spices and pronounced dried-fruit notes. The additional maturation and cypress finishing create a distinctive expression that makes this an excellent sipping rum.

The final detail worth noting is the distillery's distinctive, cosmetic-grade bottle, another product of the supply challenges experienced during the COVID-19 era. This substantial bottle is topped with a Maltese cross, whose eight points symbolize the eight Beatitudes. The cross is associated with the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John, an order formally dedicated to Saint John the Baptist.  The current label includes the harvest year, although Westcott plans to introduce more non-vintage releases as production increases.

Cheers.

Grape Spotlight: Bugey Cerdon AOP with Cellier Lingot Martin

Bugey is a winegrowing region in the Ain administrative department of eastern France, in the mountainous areas just south of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and the border with Switzerland. Bugey is most often associated with Savoie as they are close geographically and produce similar wine styles.  Bugey is a very cool climate region and the vineyard area covers a patchwork of communes in the Ain, with the majority of the vineyard area around the town of Belley. Another cluster, further north and more-or-less contiguous with the vineyard area of the sparkling Bugey Cerdon lies just southwest of Bourg-en-Bresse. 

Vineyards in this Cerdon cru are divided between two key slopes: one immediately west of the village itself, the other a little way to the south. These steep, southeast-facing slopes, with their sunny aspect and free-draining soils, are perfect for ripening the grapes.  The vines not only enjoy prolonged exposure to the sunshine; their southeasterly slant means they receive the gentler morning rays rather than the harsher afternoon sun. This, in turn, allows the grapes to ripen more leisurely and retain a certain acidity at harvest, when flavors peak.

Courtesy of Vineyards.com

The Cerdon AOP involves exclusively sparkling rosé wines made from the Gamay and Poulsard grape varieties using the "méthode ancestrale". This is the oldest known method of producing sparkling wine, where primary fermentation is halted before completion and the wine is bottled to finish fermenting, trapping carbon dioxide for bubbles without adding sugar or yeast and without disgorgement. 

Cellier Lingot Martin is located in Poncin, in the Ain department, just a few kilometers from the village of Cerdon. The winery is renowned for producing Cerdon AOP  wines. We received two of these through the Hopwine, the SEC and Intense. Both of these are made using Gamay and the "méthode ancestrale". The Lingot Martin NV Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale Classic Sec shows a dark pink wine with an anticipated fruit forward profile of strawberries and raspberries.  The Lingot Martin NV Cerdon Méthode Ancestrale Intense is darker in appearance with more jammy notes and a little sweeter.  Both are very refreshing wines perhaps as an apéritif or even as dessert with an apple, pumpkin, or cherry pie?

Beer Centric: The Modern Oktoberfest Festbier

Oktoberfest has commenced, and that means plenty of Oktoberfest lagers are appearing on shelves and draft lines throughout the region. While many Americans still associate the season with amber-colored Märzen lagers, the beer most commonly served at Munich's Oktoberfest today is actually Festbier. This modern Bavarian lager is lighter in color than its Märzen predecessor, yet equally rooted in German brewing tradition. Characterized by a brilliant golden hue, soft bready malt character, and a highly drinkable finish, Festbier was designed for a festival environment where beer is enjoyed by the liter rather than the pint.

The transition from Märzen to Festbier occurred gradually during the late 20th century as Munich breweries sought a beer that was less filling and more sessionable than the traditional amber lager that had dominated Oktoberfest for generations. While Märzen remains synonymous with Oktoberfest internationally, visitors attending the actual festival in Munich today will be served a pale golden lager that emphasizes elegant malt flavor, clean fermentation, and exceptional drinkability. The result is a beer that showcases German brewing precision while remaining approachable for a wide range of palates.

Festbier retains many characteristics of classical Bavarian lagers. Brewers rely heavily on German malt varieties that provide notes of fresh bread, honey, and cracker-like sweetness while noble hops contribute a gentle balancing bitterness. The style typically finishes crisp and smooth, with enough body to support the malt profile without becoming heavy. It is a beer built for celebration, pairing naturally with roast chicken, grilled sausages, pretzels, schnitzel, and other traditional Oktoberfest fare.

Fortunately, beer enthusiasts in the United States do not need to travel to Munich and can drink local in order to experience the style. Local breweries have embraced Festbier as a seasonal specialty, producing interpretations that honor Bavarian tradition while showcasing their own brewing philosophies.

A perfect example is Union Craft Brewing whose Fest Beer carries the seasonal tradition into the Mid-Atlantic craft beer scene. Brewed in the spirit of Munich's festival lagers with German malts and noble hops, this beer is characterized by a brilliantly clear honey-amber appearance followed by a toasty, lightly sweet, and biscuity malt notes.  This biscuity malt character also works well with pumpkin pie. Blends seamlessly. 

Grape Spotlight: Bugey AOP Chardonnay with Cellier Lingot Martin

Bugey is a winegrowing region in the Ain administrative department of eastern France, in the mountainous areas just south of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and the border with Switzerland. Bugey is most often associated with Savoie as they are close geographically and produce similar wine styles.  Bugey is a very cool climate region and the vineyard area covers a patchwork of communes in the Ain, with the majority of the vineyard area around the town of Belley. Another cluster, further north and more-or-less contiguous with the vineyard area of the sparkling Bugey Cerdon lies just southwest of Bourg-en-Bresse.

Courtesy of Vineyards.com

The best sites are on the south-facing slopes, where the combination of cool subalpine air, a sunny aspect and free draining soils (mostly based on limestone) provides the best chance for the grapes to achieve optimal ripeness. More than half of all Bugey wines are white. Chardonnay is the principal grape variety of the Bugey appellation, and must make up at least 70 percent of Bugey still white wines.  (wine-searcher)

Cellier Lingot Martin is located in Poncin, just a few kilometers from the village of Cerdon. The winery is renowned for producing Cerdon AOP (a sparkling rosé made using the 'méthode ancestrale') as well as Bugey AOP wines.  One of these is their Bugey Blanc Chardonnay, a fresh wine showing a combination of citrus and green apples laved with noticeable minerality and a refreshing lasting finish.  Bâtonnage of the lees provides depth and increased aromatics. This is a delicious wine, but what pie would you pair it with, apple or pumpkin?

Note: In the video I refer to Bugey being in western France. It is obviously in eastern France.

Two Weekends in Loudoun: The Heart of DC's Wine Country

After last month's A Vineyard Tour of 868 Estate Vineyards with a Taste of Uncork Loudoun, I leveraged being in the area to visit two more craft beverage establishments. And as fate would come forth, the following weekend we attempted to attend the Lovettsville Oktoberfest, but chose to detour after seeing the concession lines. 

Two Twisted Posts Winery & Tavern
I was able to sample a couple wines from Two Twisted Posts at the Taste of Uncork Loudoun event. There 2022 Viognier is a fuller expression of the grape as it is whole-cluster pressed, fermented and aged sur lie for twenty months, and aged in a combination of oak treatments.  But it still retains a stone fruit and citrus core. Their 2020 Cabernet Franc is another wine where the oak treatment doesn't overwhelm the dark black and cherry juice. But after that tasting, I was ready for a palate cleanser and the beauty of this winery is that it is very close to 868 Estate and they also brew craft beer. On arrival, I immediately grabbed a pint of their Two Twisted Lager - an American lager brewed with Carolina rice and Pilsner malt.  Set aside your mass produced lager and choose this delicious alternative instead.

Mt. Defiance Cider & Distillery
I used to frequent Mt. Defiance's downtown Middleburg location often, but this was the first time visiting the Cider Barn where they have combined the cider, wine, and distilling operations. It's a spacious area, with cider and wine served in the main hall and spirits in the loft.  Plus plenty of room outdoors for both groups. Their Virginia Farmhouse Cider is a classic as the traditional dry cider shows apple and citrus fruit, tannic texture, and a little funk. Later in the afternoon we shared a flight of whiskies and favored the Mt. Defiance Smoked Virginia Whiskey.  The whiskey starts with a high corn mash bill which includes wheat and malted barley that is aged two years after distillation in used oak. The smoky flavor comes from cherry wood, alder wood, and lemon balm introduces before bottling. Nicely done. 

Hiddencroft Vineyards
The vineyard occupies part of the historic Compher family farm, a property established in 1868 in what was once known as the "German Settlement" of Loudoun County. This community later became Lovettsville - hence the popular Oktoberfest celebration. The Compher family owned and worked the land for roughly a century from 1868 until 1968 and eventually purchased by Clyde Housel and Terry Housel. They planted the first vines in 2001 followed by an official commercial opening in May 2008. Our first visit occurred shortly after this opening. A few years later  the winery expanded operations onto the adjacent historic property and moved its tasting room into a restored circa-1850 farmhouse and barn. Throughout the years, Hiddencroft has been known for long aging of reds - particularly their Chambourcin which changes complexity and looses any semblance of the jammy, highly acidic, low tannic nature of its youth. Instead Hiddencroft's aged Chambourcin shows more tannic structure, more rounded fruit, and still enough acidity to lift the finish. 

Stockyard Brewery
Both Stockyard and Cool Spring are located very close to Hiddencroft providing an easy exploration of this trio. Stockyard Brewery is a relatively new operation opening only a year ago and the family-friendly farm brewery sits on approximately 50 acres of farmland - maintaining its historic agricultural activity. The taproom barn was crafted from repurposed historic materials and includes a cornerstone carved 1893. Inside the famished will find plenty of food options plus a plethora of beer and guest wines and cider. I chose their Milo's Marzen in order to salvage Oktoberfest which paired nicely with the Brisket Cup.

Cool Spring Distillery
Since the exit for Cool Spring is literally right across from Stockyard, we couldn't pass on a visit despite the always welcome rain.  The distillery is located on the east side of Short Hill Mountains, not far from Two Twisted Posts on the western side of the mountain. They offer a wide assortment of expressions from moonshine to rum to whiskey. Their  Cool Spring Short Hill Sugar Shine is made from - obviously sugar - and is very approachable. And their Cool Spring Apple Pie unloads with those traditional Autumn flavors that we look forward to sharing with our moonshine friends. They have a unique method for creating rum, using dark molasses, honey, and Demerara brown sugar. Even at 80 proof it comes across a little hot; thus several of our party preferred the Cool Spring Spiced Rum version. I'll have to return to evaluate their Bourbon, but we did come home with a bottle of their Spiked Lemonade. This expression is made using the Short Hill Shine as a base and infusing with the lemon flesh repurposed from the lemon skins used to craft their Cool Spring Lovettcello. Cheers.

The Essence of the Olive: A Tuscan Expression From Carapelli

Carapelli is one of Italy’s longest‑standing olive oil houses, founded in 1893 by Cesira and Costantino Carapelli in Montevarchi, where the family originally traded wheat and bulk oil.  Over the following decades, the company industrialized its operations while maintaining traditional milling practices, building one of the most modern grain mills of the era near Florence and establishing its first olive press before World War II. By the mid‑20th century, Carapelli had become a fixture on Italian tables and later relocated production to Tavarnelle Val di Pesa in the Chianti hills, reinforcing its identity as a Tuscan‑rooted producer.  Today, Carapelli remains a major Italian olive oil brand with a portfolio that includes both filtered and raw‑style oils.

Tuscany’s olive‑growing tradition is defined by small groves, hillside microclimates, and cultivars adapted to cooler winters. The Chianti zone surrounding Tavarnelle Val di Pesa is known for producing medium‑to‑robust oils with green fruit aromatics and pronounced pungency—traits shaped by early harvest timing and the region’s mix of traditional Tuscan varieties. While Carapelli sources broadly for some of its lines, its historical association with Tuscan production and its long emphasis on cold extraction reflect regional traditions that prioritize freshness, low oxidation, and preservation of volatile compounds.  Tuscany’s olive oil culture also values authenticity in presentation, which helps explain the company’s early leadership in bottled EVOO and later interest in raw, unfiltered styles.

Carapelli’s Unfiltered Extra Virgin Olive Oil, introduced as part of the brand’s innovation in "raw oils" , is described as a dense, cloudy oil resembling fresh mill oil, retaining suspended olive fruit particles that contribute to texture and flavor.  This product follows the company’s earlier milestone, Le Macine, the first unfiltered EVOO bottled for the Italian market.  The Unfiltered shows abundant aromatic activity due to retained solids and has a late arriving bitterness that starts deep within the throat and gradually rises. This reflects the high phenolic composition of the olive oil and is muted when adding a little lemon or lime juice.

A Vineyard Tour of 868 Estate Vineyards with a Taste of Uncork Loudoun

On September 20th, I participated in an Uncork Loudoun Winery Education Day at 868 Estate Vineyards. The event provided a behind-the-scenes look at Loudoun wine country as well as a tasting through a pilot group of 13 Loudoun County wineries.  This initiative connects sommeliers and buyers directly with winemakers to explore viticultural practices and varietals with the long-term goal to place a Loudoun Made, Loudoun Grown wine in every restaurant across Loudoun and surrounding counties, ultimately expanding into the Washington, DC market. 

Uncork Loudoun is a coordinated trade initiative launched by the Loudoun Wineries & Winegrowers Association (LWWA) to transform how restaurants and retailers source and sell local wine.  The program aims to increase the visibility and accessibility of Loudoun County wines across the DC region by focusing on education, unified marketing, and collaborative sales. 

The Education Day started with a glass of Iron Will Sparkling Viognier while 868 Estate tri-owner Nancy Deliso and winemaker Tim Kish gave a brief overview of the 15 year history of the winery. Then it was off the visit the production facility and walk through a portion of their 21 acres of vines. 

In normal years, 868 Estate produces approximately 4,000 cases of wine annually, but the last two years have not been normal, for Loudoun County, Virginia, or the East Coast. This was the case in 2022 and 2023 where ideal growing conditions led to a bumper crop which is helping the winery alleviate a dismal 2025 crop and a disastrous 2026 harvest.  This is a result of the April Freeze That Rewrote the 2026 Vintage where 868 is looking at a complete loss of their white grapes and 50% on their reds.  We walked alongside suffering Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc. And if was not just vinifera vines, even the Chambourcin and Chardonel were affected. 

Within the winery production facility we sampled a couple barrel aged wines, followed by their 2023 Estate Viognier. This wine shows by the Virginia marketing authorities designate Viognier as the Commonwealth's signature grape - although because of its temperamental behavior - is not widely grown.  This wine differs from many across the area, because Kish is a strong believer in whole-cluster fermentation where the entire grape clusters, including stems, are fermented.  This provides increased aromatic and flavor complexity in addition to adding more tannins and phenolic compounds which provide more structure and aging potential.

Back in the Vintner’s Table building, we sampled more wine from 868 Estate as well as other wines from the Uncork Loudoun portfolio. One of my favorite wines of the day was the 868 Estate 2025 Rosé - a blend of Cabernet Franc and Viognier made effervescent through forced carbonation. Of their reds, the 868 Estate 2022 Merlot was very pleasant with a fruit forward character transitioning to an earthy and herbaceous finish. That's 20% Cabernet Sauvignon will do. On the other side of the spectrum I have to comment on their 868 Estate 2022 Chardonnay which was a Gold Medal Winner at the 2024 Virginia Governor's Cup awards and provides green apples and citrus with a noticeable structure and fresh acidity.

For the Uncork Loudoun portfolio, there were another couple dozen of wines available to sample, mostly from Bordeaux region grapes. Our friends at October One Vineyard contributed another Merlot in their 2021 Loudoun County Merlot. The grapes come from their estate vineyard in Bluemont and is luscious red fruit - start to finish. Iron Will provided a trio of reds with their 2021 Cabernet Franc showing velvety red fruit and a nice tannic structure. On the white side of the isle, I kept returning to the Fabbioli Cellars 2023 Something White - a palate cleansing blend of Vidal Blanc and Petit Manseng. 

I hope to see more Uncork Loudoun events throughout the rest of 2026 and into 2027.  Afterward this event, I was able to visit a couple more Loudoun craft beverage establishments as well as a few more last weekend while trying to celebrate Oktoberfest. Stay tuned for more Loudoun County coverage. Cheers. 

Grape Spotlight: Peloponnese Assyrtiko with Ktima Kissa & European Wine Treasures

Two weeks ago I attended a virtual masterclass presented by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein on European Wine Treasures -- a three-year European Union co-funded initiative designed to showcase wines from the ancient vineyards of Greece to the distinctive terroir of Jumilla PDO, Spain. The idea is to present two iconic (yet perhaps obscure) wine regions with one European story in terms of exploring the authenticity, heritage, and quality behind European wines with certified origin.  The discussion on the Greece focused on the region's basic terroir and then to its signature grape: Assyrtiko.  Popularly recognized as being associated with Santorini's arid, volcanic and windy climate, but the grape is also grown in the mainland and other islands, like this Ktima Kissa (PGI) Peloponnese Assyrtiko 2025. The constant across Greece is the high natural acidity, structure, and varying fruit character depending on the growing region.

Archaeological evidence confirms that Greece is home to some of the oldest known grape wine remnants in the world with the earliest evidence of crushed grapes, dating back approximately 6,500 years (1).  The evolution of Greek wine from this period became shaped by varied topography, the rise of indigenous grapes, regional microclimates, and obviously the numerous islands with their own terroir. 

Assyrtiko is one of Greece’s most recognizable white grape varieties, historically rooted in Santorini but now cultivated across the mainland where it adapts to diverse soils and climatic conditions. The grape is known for its ability to maintain high acidity even in hot environments, a trait linked to its thick skins and slow phenolic development. Mainland expressions typically show citrus, saline, and stone‑fruit characteristics supported by a firm acid backbone and mineral tension. 

The Peloponnese is one of Greece’s most active mainland wine regions, known for its combination of coastal influences, elevated interior plateaus, and varied soil types. The northern Peloponnese, in particular, benefits from cooling breezes from the Gulf of Corinth and higher‑altitude vineyard sites that moderate summer heat. Soils range from limestone and marl to gravelly alluvial deposits, supporting moderate vine vigor and steady ripening. The region is traditionally associated with Moschofilero, Agiorgitiko, and Roditis, yet plantings of Assyrtiko have expanded due to the grape’s ability to retain acidity and structure in warm Mediterranean climates. In the Peloponnese, Assyrtiko often presents a slightly broader palate compared to its island counterparts, though still marked by linearity and structural clarity. Producers value the grape for its versatility in stainless‑steel fermentation, restrained oak use, and suitability for both early‑drinking and age‑worthy styles.

Ktima Kissa is located in Diminio in the northern Peloponnese, a coastal zone in Corinthia. The winery was founded in 1949 by the Kissa family, with a focus on showing how local grapes respond to the soils and climate of  the mountainous areas of Corinth. Their primary vineyard holdings are located on the slopes of Mavrioros - or Black Mountain - and part of Ziria mountain with the vines reaching an elevation of 750m to 900m.  The mountain thus protects these elevated sites from the hot south winds and breezes from the Gulf of Corinth spark nighttime temperature drops that help preserve acidity. These parcels are planted in rocky and sandy loamy soils that provide just enough drainage and water retention to allow for dry farming. The result of these conditions is s an extended ripening period, preserving Assyrtiko’s characteristic acidity but also allowing the varietal to express a more aromatic – fruity dimension. 

The grapes in the Ktima Kissa PGI Peloponnese Assyrtiko 2025 were hand harvested and after fermentation the wine sat with the lees for an additional nine months with periodic batonnage before bottling. The wine shows Assyrtiko’s characteristic citrus and mineral profile and is driven by the acidity bringing lasting liveliness. 

(1) Soultana-Maria Valamoti, Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki

Beer Centric: The Oktoberfest Märzen Through Hacker‑Pschorr

Oktoberfest has commenced and that means plenty of Oktoberfest and Festbiers highlighted in the marketplace. The Oktoberfest Märzen is a Bavarian lager historically brewed in March and stored in cool cellars through the summer so it would be ready for autumn consumption. Its defining characteristics include an amber to copper color, a malt‑forward profile built on Vienna and Munich malts, and a clean fermentation that produces a smooth, rounded beer without fruity esters. The style developed in Bavaria and is closely associated with Munich, where it became the dominant beer served at Oktoberfest throughout the 19th and much of the 20th century. Although the official festival in Munich now pours a lighter Festbier, the Märzen remains the classic Oktoberfest beer internationally, especially in the United States, where brewers continue to produce amber lagers modeled on the historical version.

The origin of the Märzen is tied to seasonal brewing practices in Bavaria, where warm‑weather brewing was avoided because of spoilage and fire risk. Brewers produced stronger, more stable beer in March that could mature safely over the summer months. By the early 1800s, this March‑brewed lager became closely linked to Oktoberfest, the Munich celebration first held in 1810 to mark the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig and Therese of Saxe‑Hildburghausen. As Oktoberfest grew into a major public festival, Märzen became the traditional beer served in the tents, shaping its identity as the beer of autumn celebrations.

Hacker‑Pschorr is one of Munich’s oldest breweries, with origins in the Hacker brewery founded in 1417. In the late 18th century, Joseph Pschorr married into the Hacker family and expanded the brewery significantly, eventually merging the two operations into the Hacker‑Pschorr name recognized today. During the 19th century, the brewery became one of Munich’s largest producers and a major supplier to Oktoberfest. Their Oktoberfest beer reflects the historical Märzen profile: an amber lager emphasizing malt richness, long cold maturation, and adherence to traditional Bavarian brewing practices.

Grape Spotlight: Kakheti Kisi from the Republic of Georgia

Last week I attended a Wines of Georgia seminar and tasting that intentionally or not tied the Republic of Georgia’s wine identity to its indigenous grape varieties, many of which have been cultivated for millennia across diverse climatic and geological zones.  Among these is Kisi -- a white grape native to eastern Georgia and historically associated with the Kakheti region. It is valued for its ability to produce both classical European‑style wines and traditional qvevri wines, each expressing the grape’s naturally aromatic profile, moderate acidity, and textural depth.

Georgia's landscape hosts ten officially recognized wine regions and these viticultural zones span a range of elevations influenced by the Greater and Lesser Caucasus Mountains. This creates distinct microclimates from humid western regions to the drier continental east. Eastern Georgia, where Kisi is most prevalent, experiences warm summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal temperature variation. These conditions help maintain acidity in white grapes despite high sunlight exposure. Soils vary by valley and slope position but commonly include alluvial deposits, loam, gravel, and pockets of calcareous material. These well‑drained soils support moderate vine vigor and steady ripening. Georgia’s long‑standing use of buried clay qvevri vessels also affects the final wine profile by enabling stable fermentation temperatures and extended maceration when desired.

Kakheti is characterized by a dry climate, abundant sunshine, and the influence of cool air descending from the Caucasus foothills. Vineyards are typically planted between 400 and 800 meters in elevation, with soils composed of alluvial layers, loam, and gravel that promote drainage and root penetration. These conditions support consistent ripening and allow growers to choose between early harvesting for higher acidity or later harvesting for fuller aromatics. 

Kisi has been traditionally grown in limited quantities but the grape is currently experiencing a modern revival surrounding its historic home in the Alazani Valley and surrounding foothills. Here growers value the grape for its moderate acidity, aromatic potential, and adaptability to both traditional qvevri and modern European‑style winemaking. The grape typically produces wines with stone‑fruit and citrus characteristics in stainless‑steel or neutral‑oak fermentations, while qvevri vinification with extended skin contact yields amber‑colored wines with firmer tannins, dried‑fruit notes, and increased textural weight. I tasted examples of both of these styles at the Wines of Georgia tasting.

Orgo Winery is known for its emphasis on traditional qvevri winemaking and its use of older vineyards in Kakheti -- many with at least 50 year old vines. The winery is a project of the famous Georgian wine maker Gogi Dikishivili, who is often referred to as the "godfather of qvevri wine". He was one of the first winemakers to ever bottle and export qvevri wine and is universally acknowledged a pioneer of the revival of the qvevri wine technology in Georgia. Following this process, the Orgo Kisi 2024 underwent fermentation and aging in qvevri, resulting in an amber wine with a notable tannin presence and extended skin‑derived phenolics, plus surprising salinity. Orgo wines are available in the United States through the Georgian Wine House.

Koncho & Co Winery is based in the Kvareli area of Kakheti, where vineyards benefit from the Alazani Valley’s alluvial soils and the moderating influence of nearby mountain ranges. The winery was established using the foundation of the Konchoshvili wine cellar (dating back to 1737) with the goal to "find and cultivate extinct and endangered Georgian indigenous vine varieties and produce the exclusive wines from grapes harvested in these vineyards".   Their Kisi Qvevri 2019 ($28) is naturally vinified through spontaneous fermentation by wild yeast. The wine remains on grape skins and stems for six months in buried clay vessels, developing tannin structure and extended phenolic depth, and is then aged an additional six months in oak barrels. The wine is available in the United States through Qvevri Wines online store. 

Ashaneli Winery operates in Kakheti with a focus on indigenous varieties and a combination of traditional and modern techniques. Their wines generally follow a fruit‑forward, European‑style approach that emphasizes freshness, moderate alcohol, and clear varietal aromatics. The Ashaneli Kisi Kakheti 2024 $17.99) reflects this style, produced through controlled stainless‑steel fermentation to preserve primary fruit character and maintain balanced acidity. Ashaneli’s vineyards benefit from Kakheti’s warm, dry climate and well‑drained alluvial and loamy soils, which support consistent ripening. This wine demonstrates how Kisi can be expressed without extended skin contact while benefiting from the regional terroir associated with eastern Georgia. Ashaneli wines are available in various retail outlets in a dozen states.

Grape Spotlight: Jumilla PDO Monastrell Through European Wine Treasures & Bodegas Viña Elena

Last week I attended a virtual masterclass presented by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein on European Wine Treasures -- a three-year European Union co-funded initiative designed to showcase wines from the ancient vineyards of Greece to the distinctive terroir of Jumilla PDO, Spain. The idea is to present two iconic (yet perhaps obscure) wine regions with one European story in terms of exploring the authenticity, heritage, and quality behind European wines with certified origin.

The discussion on the Jumilla PDO focused on the region's basic terroir and then to its signature grape: Monastrell (which most of the world knows as Mourvèdre). The common factor is that this thick-skinned and late ripening grape thrives in Jumillo's limestone and dry farmed soils. The large diurnal temperature swings help retain freshness and the longer growing season slowly concentrates fruit and helps generate structured dark fruit and "Monte Bajo" --  a signature aromatic profile. 

The masterclass taught us that Jumilla’s terroir is built upon a high, semi‑arid plateau in southeastern Spain, where elevations from 400 to 900 meters (1300-2000 feet) create sharp diurnal temperature swings that help maintain acidity in an otherwise hot interior climate. The region receives little rain (under 300 mm of annual rainfall) making drought stress a defining condition of the dry‑farmed, bush‑trained vines. Its soils are predominantly calcareous—light, stony limestone and sandy loams with low organic matter and excellent drainage—which naturally limit vigor, encourage deep rooting, and historically provided resistance to phylloxera. Climatically, Jumilla sits at the intersection of continental and Mediterranean influences: intense summer heat moderated by altitude, cold winters, and periodic Levantine breezes that temper extremes. (The Levantine breezes are easterly winds that blow through the western Mediterranean Sea and along the southern coasts of Spain and France.) These combined factors produce an environment where vine growth is restrained, yields are low, and fruit develops with notable concentration, structure, and mineral expression -- all hallmarks of the region’s distinct high‑plateau environment.

Monastrell is a late‑ripening, thick‑skinned variety whose parentage is completely Spanish in nature. Recent genetic work published in the Vitis – Journal of Grapevine Research (2015) indicate that it is a natural cross between Hebén and an as‑yet‑unidentified second parent. Its historical heartland is the Mediterranean arc of eastern Spain, where references to Murvedre and Monestrell appear in medieval agricultural records from Valencia and Catalonia (Wikipedia). Jumilla became one of its most important refuges in the late 19th century: the region’s sandy, limestone‑rich soils resisted phylloxera, allowing vast tracts of ungrafted Monastrell to survive while neighboring regions were devastated. 

Francisco Pacheco planted the seeds for Bodegas Viña Elena in the early 1940s by purchasing a property in Jumilla’s warmest and driest region, that of northeast of Murcia. This early bodega included a wine press and thus Francisco began to make wine. By 1948, his son Paco had inherited the press and enlarged the facility to make and age wine with the addition of concrete vats and large wooden casks. Over the years the operation expanded and more generations joined the family operation where today the it is currently in the hands of the third and fourth generations of the Pacheco Family.  

The Bruma del Estrecho de Marín Vineyard Collection was conceived by Elena Pacheco and Isio Ramos aimed at making 100% Monastrell wines from select DO Jumilla vineyards with the goal to craft wines that reach their full expression with regard to microclimate, soil, location, and the age of the vines.  One of these wines is the Paraje Marín -- 100% Monastrell sourced from a combination of different plots, located in the Marin Valley, southern sub-zone of the D.O.P. Jumilla.  These grapes are also Organic certified, were dry-farmed, and hand harvested. 

In general, the grapes come from an area called Estrecho de Marín (where the Viña Elena bodega is located) that lies in a valley flanked by two mountains: Rajica de Enmedio in the east and Solana Sopalmo in the west. As stated previously, this is DO Jumilla’s warmest and driest region and the goblet-pruned vines used to produce the Paraje Marín are planted on both sides of the valley: "those in the east are subject to more shade and give the wine freshness, minerality and elegance, while those in the west are subject to more sunlight and give the wine the characteristic maturity and warmth of the Monastrell grape variety". 

After the hand harvest, the grape juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks with the grapes’ native yeasts, then malolactic fermentation carried out slowly in concrete tanks, where the wine was then aged for six months in the old 1948 winery. The result is a deliciously fruit forward wine showing layers of blackberry and dark cherry fruit, noticeable herbaciousness and spices.