Grape Spotlight: Kakheti Kisi from the Republic of Georgia

Last week I attended a Wines of Georgia seminar and tasting that intentionally or not tied the Republic of Georgia’s wine identity to its indigenous grape varieties, many of which have been cultivated for millennia across diverse climatic and geological zones.  Among these is Kisi -- a white grape native to eastern Georgia and historically associated with the Kakheti region. It is valued for its ability to produce both classical European‑style wines and traditional qvevri wines, each expressing the grape’s naturally aromatic profile, moderate acidity, and textural depth.

Georgia's landscape hosts ten officially recognized wine regions and these viticultural zones span a range of elevations influenced by the Greater and Lesser Caucasus Mountains. This creates distinct microclimates from humid western regions to the drier continental east. Eastern Georgia, where Kisi is most prevalent, experiences warm summers, cold winters, and significant diurnal temperature variation. These conditions help maintain acidity in white grapes despite high sunlight exposure. Soils vary by valley and slope position but commonly include alluvial deposits, loam, gravel, and pockets of calcareous material. These well‑drained soils support moderate vine vigor and steady ripening. Georgia’s long‑standing use of buried clay qvevri vessels also affects the final wine profile by enabling stable fermentation temperatures and extended maceration when desired.

Kakheti is characterized by a dry climate, abundant sunshine, and the influence of cool air descending from the Caucasus foothills. Vineyards are typically planted between 400 and 800 meters in elevation, with soils composed of alluvial layers, loam, and gravel that promote drainage and root penetration. These conditions support consistent ripening and allow growers to choose between early harvesting for higher acidity or later harvesting for fuller aromatics. 

Kisi has been traditionally grown in limited quantities but the grape is currently experiencing a modern revival surrounding its historic home in the Alazani Valley and surrounding foothills. Here growers value the grape for its moderate acidity, aromatic potential, and adaptability to both traditional qvevri and modern European‑style winemaking. The grape typically produces wines with stone‑fruit and citrus characteristics in stainless‑steel or neutral‑oak fermentations, while qvevri vinification with extended skin contact yields amber‑colored wines with firmer tannins, dried‑fruit notes, and increased textural weight. I tasted examples of both of these styles at the Wines of Georgia tasting.

Orgo Winery is known for its emphasis on traditional qvevri winemaking and its use of older vineyards in Kakheti -- many with at least 50 year old vines. The winery is a project of the famous Georgian wine maker Gogi Dikishivili, who is often referred to as the "godfather of qvevri wine". He was one of the first winemakers to ever bottle and export qvevri wine and is universally acknowledged a pioneer of the revival of the qvevri wine technology in Georgia. Following this process, the Orgo Kisi 2024 underwent fermentation and aging in qvevri, resulting in an amber wine with a notable tannin presence and extended skin‑derived phenolics, plus surprising salinity. Orgo wines are available in the United States through the Georgian Wine House.

Koncho & Co Winery is based in the Kvareli area of Kakheti, where vineyards benefit from the Alazani Valley’s alluvial soils and the moderating influence of nearby mountain ranges. The winery was established using the foundation of the Konchoshvili wine cellar (dating back to 1737) with the goal to "find and cultivate extinct and endangered Georgian indigenous vine varieties and produce the exclusive wines from grapes harvested in these vineyards".   Their Kisi Qvevri 2019 ($28) is naturally vinified through spontaneous fermentation by wild yeast. The wine remains on grape skins and stems for six months in buried clay vessels, developing tannin structure and extended phenolic depth, and is then aged an additional six months in oak barrels. The wine is available in the United States through Qvevri Wines online store. 

Ashaneli Winery operates in Kakheti with a focus on indigenous varieties and a combination of traditional and modern techniques. Their wines generally follow a fruit‑forward, European‑style approach that emphasizes freshness, moderate alcohol, and clear varietal aromatics. The Ashaneli Kisi Kakheti 2024 $17.99) reflects this style, produced through controlled stainless‑steel fermentation to preserve primary fruit character and maintain balanced acidity. Ashaneli’s vineyards benefit from Kakheti’s warm, dry climate and well‑drained alluvial and loamy soils, which support consistent ripening. This wine demonstrates how Kisi can be expressed without extended skin contact while benefiting from the regional terroir associated with eastern Georgia. Ashaneli wines are available in various retail outlets in a dozen states.

Grape Spotlight: Jumilla PDO Monastrell Through European Wine Treasures & Bodegas Viña Elena

Last week I attended a virtual masterclass presented by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein on European Wine Treasures -- a three-year European Union co-funded initiative designed to showcase wines from the ancient vineyards of Greece to the distinctive terroir of Jumilla PDO, Spain. The idea is to present two iconic (yet perhaps obscure) wine regions with one European story in terms of exploring the authenticity, heritage, and quality behind European wines with certified origin.

The discussion on the Jumilla PDO focused on the region's basic terroir and then to its signature grape: Monastrell (which most of the world knows as Mourvèdre). The common factor is that this thick-skinned and late ripening grape thrives in Jumillo's limestone and dry farmed soils. The large diurnal temperature swings help retain freshness and the longer growing season slowly concentrates fruit and helps generate structured dark fruit and "Monte Bajo" --  a signature aromatic profile. 

The masterclass taught us that Jumilla’s terroir is built upon a high, semi‑arid plateau in southeastern Spain, where elevations from 400 to 900 meters (1300-2000 feet) create sharp diurnal temperature swings that help maintain acidity in an otherwise hot interior climate. The region receives little rain (under 300 mm of annual rainfall) making drought stress a defining condition of the dry‑farmed, bush‑trained vines. Its soils are predominantly calcareous—light, stony limestone and sandy loams with low organic matter and excellent drainage—which naturally limit vigor, encourage deep rooting, and historically provided resistance to phylloxera. Climatically, Jumilla sits at the intersection of continental and Mediterranean influences: intense summer heat moderated by altitude, cold winters, and periodic Levantine breezes that temper extremes. (The Levantine breezes are easterly winds that blow through the western Mediterranean Sea and along the southern coasts of Spain and France.) These combined factors produce an environment where vine growth is restrained, yields are low, and fruit develops with notable concentration, structure, and mineral expression -- all hallmarks of the region’s distinct high‑plateau environment.

Monastrell is a late‑ripening, thick‑skinned variety whose parentage is completely Spanish in nature. Recent genetic work published in the Vitis – Journal of Grapevine Research (2015) indicate that it is a natural cross between Hebén and an as‑yet‑unidentified second parent. Its historical heartland is the Mediterranean arc of eastern Spain, where references to Murvedre and Monestrell appear in medieval agricultural records from Valencia and Catalonia (Wikipedia). Jumilla became one of its most important refuges in the late 19th century: the region’s sandy, limestone‑rich soils resisted phylloxera, allowing vast tracts of ungrafted Monastrell to survive while neighboring regions were devastated. 

Francisco Pacheco planted the seeds for Bodegas Viña Elena in the early 1940s by purchasing a property in Jumilla’s warmest and driest region, that of northeast of Murcia. This early bodega included a wine press and thus Francisco began to make wine. By 1948, his son Paco had inherited the press and enlarged the facility to make and age wine with the addition of concrete vats and large wooden casks. Over the years the operation expanded and more generations joined the family operation where today the it is currently in the hands of the third and fourth generations of the Pacheco Family.  

The Bruma del Estrecho de Marín Vineyard Collection was conceived by Elena Pacheco and Isio Ramos aimed at making 100% Monastrell wines from select DO Jumilla vineyards with the goal to craft wines that reach their full expression with regard to microclimate, soil, location, and the age of the vines.  One of these wines is the Paraje Marín -- 100% Monastrell sourced from a combination of different plots, located in the Marin Valley, southern sub-zone of the D.O.P. Jumilla.  These grapes are also Organic certified, were dry-farmed, and hand harvested. 

In general, the grapes come from an area called Estrecho de Marín (where the Viña Elena bodega is located) that lies in a valley flanked by two mountains: Rajica de Enmedio in the east and Solana Sopalmo in the west. As stated previously, this is DO Jumilla’s warmest and driest region and the goblet-pruned vines used to produce the Paraje Marín are planted on both sides of the valley: "those in the east are subject to more shade and give the wine freshness, minerality and elegance, while those in the west are subject to more sunlight and give the wine the characteristic maturity and warmth of the Monastrell grape variety". 

After the hand harvest, the grape juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks with the grapes’ native yeasts, then malolactic fermentation carried out slowly in concrete tanks, where the wine was then aged for six months in the old 1948 winery. The result is a deliciously fruit forward wine showing layers of blackberry and dark cherry fruit, noticeable herbaciousness and spices. 

A Rosé Day Marked by Pink Ash at Paradise Springs Winery

This spring and summer we've visited Paradise Springs Winery multiple times as its a convenient central destination for our friends living throughout NOVA. However after spending time with owner Kirk Wiles and winemaker Rob Cox at an event at Hawkley Brewing, we targeted visiting the winery for their annual Rosé Day. This day celebrates pink in all ways and in particularly the rosé wines from the winery's Fairfax and Santa Barbara locations. 

We hadn't tried any of these left coast wines and fortunately there was a bottle of the Pink Ash Sparkling Rosé ($75) ready on our arrival. The wine is a 60% Pinot Noir - 40% Chardonnay, méthode champenoise sparkler - very fruit forward, lively effervescence and a long satisfying finish.  Yet what immediately caught our eye was the beautiful artwork embedded in the label that obviously represented the traditional Paradise Springs logo. And the back label explained it was the work of actor-artist Billy Zane and that a third of all proceeds are donated to rebuilding communities affected by the 2017 Thomas Fire and later mudslides. 

Later Kirk poured us a sample of their 2025 Pink Ash Rosé ($35) - where the inaugural 2022 vintage was the impetus to the Zane collaboration. They met at a dinner party and conversed about the Santa Barbara winery, Zane's art work, and eventually about the recent natural disasters -- and decided to act.  The soon to be released rosé was crafted from grapes grown at the historic Sanford & Benedict estate in the Sta. Rita Hills, so at that location, Zane spread a canvas on the ground and created a label using ash and mud from the disasters -- plus a splash of rosé wine. See Billy Zane’s Righteous Rosé Label for the complete story. And we will provide a full review of the 2025 vintage once we open one of the bottles we purchased. 

Finally, this visit illustrated once again the difficult, onerous, and expensive aspects of viticulture where rows of normally flourishing estate vines had disappeared or showed signs of vine death. These vines were lost during The April Freeze That Rewrote the 2026 Vintage and will eventually be replaced with Cabernet Franc. This is a tedious, time consuming, and expensive process that requires removing the dead vines by cutting the stems at soil level and excavating the root system. This involves digging a trench 2–3 feet from the stump to locate and extract the major roots, ensuring no bud-bearing chunks remain to resprout. Then replanting involves thorough soil preparation and careful installation of new vines.  The soil must be amended with organic matter and deep plowed to break up compaction and improve drainage, potentially leaving it fallow for 1–3 years if soil-borne pests are a concern.  

This is a sober reminder that we need to support our local farms and vineyards. Vineyard life may seem glamorous, but in reality it is difficult, expensive, and prone to the whims of nature. 

Grape Spotlight: Virginia Blanc de Franc

Cabernet Franc is highly suitable for Virginia's climate because it ripens earlier than other red varieties, allowing it to avoid late-season rains and humidity that cause rot.  Its thicker skins and looser clusters provide natural disease resistance in these humid conditions, and its cold hardiness allows it to withstand winter temperatures better than varieties like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Thus it is not surprising that it is the most widely planted grape in the Commonwealth with 610 acres planted. (See the Virginia Wine 2025 Commercial Wine Grape Report - pdf.)  

From what I recall, this Spring I tasted my very first Blanc de Franc wine at Capstone Vineyards and very soon afterwards tasted versions from the Shenandoah Valley's Cave Ridge Vineyard and our local favorite: Paradise Springs Winery. 

First, a basic primer. Red grapes contain nearly colorless juice so the dark color associated with red wines comes from extended skin contact during fermentation. However, Blanc de Franc is a white wine made entirely from red wine grapes - in this case - Cabernet Franc, produced by pressing the red grapes immediately so that the clear juice is separated from the skins before any color or tannin can be extracted. By eliminating the skin contact, winemakers obtain a pale, essentially white wine from a red grape variety. 

The production of Blanc de Franc relies on extremely gentle handling and pressing to avoid extracting pigment or harsh phenolics. Some producers use only free‑run juice, which flows from the grapes before any mechanical pressure is applied. Fermentation typically occurs in stainless steel to preserve freshness, and the wine may be fractioned or clarified without skin contact. 

During a recent excursion to Capstone Vineyards we were able to compare their 2025 Blanc de Franc ($44) with the Cave Ridge 2024 Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($27). And a week later we sampled the Paradise Springs Winery Blanc de Franc 2024 ($34) at their Rosé Day Celebration. We found that each wine was significantly different despite using very similar whole cluster pressing methods to avoid as much as possible introducing red pigment into the wine. 

For the Capstone, the pressed juice was a little pinker than they had wanted and they relied on the fermentation process where yeast can naturally leach remaining color from the juice. The finished wine is pale and provides more green apple and stone fruit characters with ample acidity.  The Cave Ridge version has a slightly darker appearance, more citrus notes, and similar acidity that is tempered by a little residual sugar. Finally, the Paradise Springs release is the most complex, on the one hand a strong citrus profile that also joins with a few tropic notes. Lots of depth which made for a very pleasant fröccs. Cheers.

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 7: Big Fish Cider Co.

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

Monterey was our final destination as we wanted to visit the geographically isolated Big Fish Cider Co. The drive into Highland County crossed through high elevations, narrow valleys, and mostly livestock farms. The county’s geography differs from the rest of western Virginia, with farms situated along ridgelines and hollows that support these livestock as well as hay production and small orchards. Monterey developed as a service center for these agricultural communities and later became known for its maple‑syrup industry and outdoor tourism. 

Big Fish Cider Co. operates in downtown Monterey and was founded by Kirk Billingsley, who began producing cider from locally sourced apples and expanded the operation into a commercial cidery as demand grew.  The apples used in production come from Highland County and nearby mountain orchards, where cooler nights and slower ripening contribute to higher acidity and firmer structure. 

One of these apples is the Harrison - an historically significant American cider apple documented in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.  The apple nearly disappeared in the twentieth century before being rediscovered and reintroduced into modern orchards. It is known for its high sugar content, firm tannin, and suitability for producing full‑bodied, dry cider. The Big Fish Harrison ($19.50) is made off-dry with 1% residual sugar that is completely balanced by the apple's tartness and acidity. The apples were sourced from Glaize & Bros Orchard in Winchester, VA and provide sufficient tannin to ensure a full bodied palate.  

We did not have time to sample their complete portfolio as we looked at at 2.4 hour journey home, but if the Harrison is an indication, we will return, perhaps in maple syrup season. Cheers. 

Update: The text has been updated to reflect that the apples where sourced from Glaize & Bros Orchard in Winchester, VA and not Crimora farm. Big Fish uses Highland County apples when possible, and when the weather doesn't cooperate, they source apples as locally as possible. 

In addition, while Kirk Billingsley founded Big Fish and operated it for 10 years, last year it was purchased by cidermaker Joshua Corl. 

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 6: Troddenvale Cider

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

The Warm Springs Valley is a narrow mountain valley in Bath County shaped by the Allegheny Highlands and has a long history of mineral‑spring activity which has been enticing visitors to the region since the early eighteenth century. The valley floor sits between parallel ridgelines, creating a landscape of mixed pasture, forest, and small agricultural holdings, with elevations rising sharply on both sides of the valley. Warm Springs Run flows through the center of the valley, fed by the natural warm springs that give the area its name. The combination of sheltered terrain, reliable water sources, and cooler nighttime temperatures has supported farming for more than two centuries and continues to define the geography surrounding Hot Springs and Warm Springs today.

Oakley Farm is one of these historical agricultural holdings - founded in 1834 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is one of the oldest continuously operated farms in Bath County. The property sits at 2,400 feet on a karst limestone in Warm Springs, Virginia and is surrounded by the George Washington National Forest. Over nearly two centuries, three families have shaped and stewarded this farm. Today, Oakley is home to two ventures, Troddenvale and Foodlore, "each rooted in the land and in the traditions of food, farming, and gathering that continue to shape this valley".

Troddenvale can be roughly translated to the “valley road” and is inspired by the long  history of visitors traveling to Virginia’s great springs region: the Warm Springs Valley.  The cidery focuses on producing ciders from fruit grown in the Appalachian Highlands and their estate orchards include a mix of heirloom and modern apple varieties suited to the region’s cooler nights and well‑drained soils. I learned later that they also source apples from Virginia's modern pomme pioneer, Diane Flynt, and her Foggy Ridge Cider.  Troddenvale's ciders emphasizes traditional styles without additions or adjustments. They rely on native yeasts that provides genuine complexity and individual character; fermenting in neutral oak that creates depth; and unfiltered bottling that provides texture.

During our visit I sampled five ciders that were offered as their weekend sampler. The first was the 2024 House Cider ($22), produced from a blend of apples grown on the farm and nearby orchards -- including Foggy Ridge. Interestingly the fresh pressed juice was fermented in a combination of French, American oak, and Black Locust barrels.  House Cider is made in a straightforward manner, relying on natural acidity and the characteristics of the fruit to present a dry profile with moderate tannin and the light orchard‑fruit notes typical of Appalachian‑grown apples. 

The 2024 Forage Cider ($26) was next and as the name suggests made from apples collected from wild or unmanaged trees located near to Oakley Farm.  These trees often include older or unidentified varieties that persist in the region’s hollows, fence lines, and former homestead sites. Foraged apples can show higher tannin, variable acidity, and more rustic aromatics compared to cultivated fruit. The resulting cider presents a drier, more structured profile starting with an interesting sour grapefruit note that after strongly aerating mellows into a more Martinelli fresh apple flavor.

The 2024 Petit Cider ($25) is produced from 100% Virginia Hewe’s Crab apples grown at Foggy Ridge, Countryside Farm & Nursery, and apples from Hidden Valley in Warm Springs planted by the forest service in the mid 1990s. After native fermentation and resting on its lees for many months, the cider was bottled and let to rest 10 months before release. The tasting notes genuinely reflect the orange marmalade notes that slowly open after the reduced aroma is allowed to aerate. 

The 2024 A Little Man Sings ($30) is a natural wine made from Petit Manseng where the grapes were grown in Crozet Virginia at Grace Estates Winery and Chiles Family Orchards. The grapes were foot tread and macerated whole cluster for two weeks. Upon fermenting dry, the wine was pressed directly to barrel, blending with a small amount of reserve wine from previous vintages. The barrels sat open and un-topped for 12 months. The result is a tart wine with some pineapple and other tropical notes with a unique brown sugar character. And still plenty of acidity.

The final offering is the 2023 Family Ties ($45) - a truly unique collaboration between  Lightwell Survey and Troddenvale. This wine-cider hybrid is made from Traminette grapes blended with Virginia Hewe’s Crab. "Once the cider reached near-dryness, clusters of Traminette grapes were foot-tread, pressed, and combined with the cider in a neutral French oak barrel. The mixture rested undisturbed until it was racked off its lees in early March 2024 and bottled still."  I really enjoyed this collaboration with the spicy and floral character of the grapes mingling with the tartness and tannin of the crabapples. Perhaps its blaspheming but I would augment with a little sparkling water to return the a more effervescent character. Cheers. 

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 5: Bacova Beer

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

Hot Springs was our fist destination on day two, and like many towns in Bath County its development is tied to the long history of tourism centered around the region’s mineral springs. Visitors began arriving in the eighteenth century, and by the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the Homestead Resort and surrounding businesses formed a small commercial district that served travelers seeking the springs and the mountain climate. The town today maintains a mix of long‑standing service establishments and newer small businesses that support both residents and visitors to the Allegheny Highlands.

After traveling from Clifton Forge and through the scenic views of Alleghany Highlands and Bath County, we arrived in Hot Springs just in time for Bacova Beer to open for lunch. The brewery initially opened in 2017 and is owned and operated by Seth and Emily Ellis -- both having ties to Bath County’s community and outdoor culture. The name references the historic Bacova community and woodcraft enterprise that operated in the county during the mid‑twentieth century and known for producing handmade household goods. The brewery operates a five barrel brewhouse, a taproom offering a rotating lineup of beers, plus a kitchen serving pub fare and sandwiches. 

One of these sandwiches that immediately caught our attention was their Avocado BLT. Seemed like a great option to pair with their six beer flight.  The first selection was the 180 Kölsch. The name derives from Seth doing a "180" regarding Emily's suggestion to brew this German style beer which their version follows the traditional approach: presenting a pale, restrained malt profile and a dry finish.  Love it and have been sipping cans at home since our return. 

The Furious George is hybrid ale crossing an English Bitter with an American IPA, in other words, biscuity malt background as English Bitters pronounced dry hop character of an IPA.  I'm not sure how I felt about this hybrid - would be interested in their version of a strict English Bitter. 

The Sally Amber is an amber ale -- a style traditionally defined by moderate malt sweetness, caramel notes, and a balanced hop presence. Yet the brewery augments this into a West-Coast style with a  prominent supply of hops.  Another where I would rather try a true Amber Ale 

The Harris Porter is a traditional English porter emphasizing roasted malt, chocolate, and coffee notes, with moderate bitterness and a fuller body than lighter ales. Love this beer - imagine sipping in Autumn among the mountain leaves. 

Bacova brews a year round Irish‑style red ale in the Conner O’Malley. This style typically shows moderate malt sweetness, light caramel notes, and a subtle toasted character, with a reddish hue derived from specialty malts.  Nicely done and named for the family dog - a Siberian Huskey with red fur. 

The final offering in our flight was the seasonal Hay Fever wheat beer. Another very drinkable beer that matches the expected character of  soft grain and subtle fruit with spice notes.  Probably the best pairing choice with the Avocado BLT. Cheers.

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 4: Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

Clifton Forge was our final destination for the first day of the trip and this town's development was closely tied to the expansion of the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway. Clifton Forge grew as a rail center beginning in the late nineteenth century, serving as a location for locomotive maintenance, crew changes, and freight movement through the Allegheny Mountains. The town’s commercial district formed around this activity, with hotels, restaurants, and taverns supporting rail workers and travelers. Jack Mason’s occupies a building within this historic core and reflects the town’s connection to rail‑based industry and the transition toward tourism and local commerce that followed the decline of heavy rail operations.

After checking into our hotel, we immediately ventured downtown to Jack Mason’s Tavern and Brewery. The operation was established in 2009 by Martha Atherholt and Wendy Hudler who named the tavern as a tribute to Martha’s grandfather, Jack Hiram Mason -- "whom they admired for his many and varied accomplishments". In July 2022 the tavern changed hands to lifelong friends of Martha's, Michael and Ann Foster, who retained the tavern name and tradition of naming beers in alliance with Clifton Forge's history.  

The first beer I chose while waiting for my plate of Smoke Sausage and Kraut was their Loghopper Tavern Kölsch. I can't believe there isn't a Beer Centric post on Kölsch, so in brief this is a German style originating from Cologne, brewed as an ale but conditioned at cooler temperatures. This process creates a clean, light beer with moderate bitterness and subtle fruit notes. And the name "Loghopper" refers to the logging and timber activity in the Allegheny region, where workers moved timber along rail lines and through mountain passes. The beer nails the traditional profile of the style, offering a pale color, restrained malt character, and a dry finish.

I then selected the Brother Perkins Brown Ale to pair with the smoked sausage. The name refers to a local preacher known within Clifton Forge’s community history. Brother Perkins was remembered for his role in local religious life and for his interactions with residents, becoming part of the town’s oral tradition. The ale offers a malt‑forward style with color and flavors associated with caramel, toast, and light chocolate.  The beer blended nicely with the savory smokiness of the sausage and with the moderate alcohol level I was tempted to another pint -- but not after this long day.

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 3: Rockbridge Vineyards and Brewery

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia.  It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River.  The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.

Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

From Cave Ridge Vineyard, it was time for the longest segment, 70+ miles south to Raphine. Having plenty of time, I took the more scenic Route 11 most of the trip, jumping onto Route 81 to avoid the traffic through downtown Harrisonburg and Staunton. 

Rockbridge Vineyards and Brewery is located in the southern portion of the Shenandoah Valley and has operated since 1992 under the direction of winemaker Shep Rouse. The property sits within a landscape of rolling farmland and limestone‑influenced soils typical of the Valley, and over several decades the estate has expanded its plantings to include vinifera and hybrid varieties suited to the region’s climate. Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Traminette, and Pinot Noir form part of the core vineyard holdings. More recently they added a brewery and cider program -- creating a combined wine, beer, and cider facility that should be attractive to all craft beverage lovers.

I've tried several of their wines throughout the years and in fact served their St. Mary’s Blanc at our wedding.  The wine is named for the St. Mary’s Wilderness, Virginia's largest designated wilderness area, encompassing approximately 10,000 acres (specifically 9,826 to 10,090 acres) of rugged terrain in the Blue Ridge Mountains. The current vintage is 100% Vidal Blanc and fermented to create a dry citrus profile. Looking forward to celebrating an anniversary with a new bottle. 

So instead of wine, I opted for a flight of three beers and one cider.  This flight started with their flagship Pale Ale which is based on Sierra Nevada's legendary Pale Ale. Expect a decent amount of citrus and pine at the front and tail. The Robust Porter followed which has that classic dry roasted and chocolate profile. The downfall, in my opinion, was the over abundance of hops. Their Coffee-Milk Stout batted third in the lineup and is a collaboration with Crucible Coffee Roasters. A solid beer; love the lactose. The final pour, and my favorite, was the Rock Dry Cider. They nailed this blend of Winesap and Golden Delicious apples; a cider that is dry, yet flavorful with a balanced tartness and acidity.  Unfortunately their canning machine was out of service. 

Moving into the wine tasting bar I was able to sample two of my favorite Rockbridge expressions, the 2018 DeChiel Reserve Riesling and DeChiel Reserve Pinot Noir. Riesling has been a long‑standing focus at Rockbridge, and the estate’s plantings benefit from the Valley’s cooler nights and well‑drained soils. The estate grown 2018 DeChiel Reserve Riesling has .5% residual sugar, aged in stainless steel, and shows the age ability of the grape variety - a feature that is under appreciated. Expect orchard fruit, citrus, and firm acidity. Pinot Noir is less commonly planted in Virginia due to the state’s humidity and disease pressure, but the Shenandoah Valley’s lower rainfall and cooler nights make it one of the few regions in the state where the grape can be grown with consistency. The DeChiel Reserve Pinot Noir is produced from estate fruit and shows the lighter color and moderate tannin typical of the variety. 

The Essence of the Olive: Portugal’s Olivari Marmelo Estate Reserve Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Portugal’s olive‑growing tradition dates to Roman settlement, with long‑established groves across the Alentejo and Ribatejo plains. These regions contain warm Mediterranean conditions that combine with cooler Atlantic influences that help produce stable yields and consistent phenolic development. The Marmelo Estate sits within this zone, operating as a single‑source 240-hectare estate ear Évora (Alentejo) where all olives for the Olivari® Marmelo Estate Reserve bottling are grown, harvested, and milled on site.

The oil is crafted from century-old Arbequina and Cordovil de Serpa olive trees. Cordovil de Serpa is the most emblematic olive variety of Portugal's Moura region and a primary cultivar in the Alentejo area, native to the towns of Serpa and Elvas.  The olive provides oil that is typically bitter and spicy with leafy green or herbaceous aromas reminiscent of olive leaves and green tomato stalks. Arbequina olive trees originated in Catalonia, Spain and add fruit‑forward aromatics and softer texture. 

The hand harvest occurs between October 20 and November 15, targeting early‑to‑mid maturity fruit. Olives are milled within 90 minutes after harvest using a two‑phase cold‑extraction system -- a method designed to limit oxidation and preserve volatile compounds. The oil is filtered and stored in stainless-steel tanks under nitrogen until bottling, ensuring a unique lot code provides traceability to harvest logs and chemical analysis (e.g., free fatty acid ≤0.2%). 

Chemical analysis of recent Marmelo Estate Reserve batches shows free acidity within EVOO limits, peroxide values within EU thresholds, and total phenolics generally between 300–450 mg/kg, placing the oil in the medium‑to‑robust range for Portuguese production. The oil meets EU Extra Virgin standards and undergoes internal sensory panel verification. Farming practices are conventional but low‑residue, and pesticide‑residue tests comply with EU regulatory requirements.

The oil provides medium intensity with an aroma of fresh herbs and almonds. Bitterness is moderate and arrives late in the finish. This structure supports use in grilled vegetables, tomato‑based dishes, seafood, and salads.

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 2: Cave Ridge Vineyard

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.

Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cave Ridge Vineyard is located only a short drive from our first stop at Kindred Pointe and was established in 2000 by Randy and Karen Phillips. The property sits on a slope with limestone‑influenced soils typical of the central Valley, and the vineyard has expanded over time to include a mix of vinifera and hybrid varieties chosen for their suitability to the region’s climate. The estate plantings include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Riesling, Viognier, Petit Verdot, and several other varieties that respond well to the Valley’s lower humidity, extended growing season, and diurnal temperature shifts. The winery produces a range of wines from these estate vineyards, supplemented at times by fruit from nearby growers within the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area.

We took a different approach this time. Instead of a flight we sat down with a glass of their Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Riesling ($32).Why? Well, how can you refuse a glass of sparkling Riesling? Riesling has long been planted at Cave Ridge and the grape responds well to the Valley’s limestone‑rich soils and cooler nighttime temperatures. Riesling’s naturally high acidity makes it suitable for sparkling wine production, and the Blanc de Blanc designation indicates that it is made entirely from white grapes. The wine shows the grape’s typical combination of acidity and light fruit character works well in the sparkling format. 

On leaving, I purchased a trio of wines that seemed incredibly interesting. Albariño thrives in the Mid-Atlantic where it shows firmer structure and more pronounced stone‑fruit notes as opposed to Galicia. And I remember tasting their 2024 Albariño ($30) at a recent Governor's Cup event.  Looking forward to compare this Shenandoah version with others from Maryland and Loudoun County. Rkatsiteli. How could I pass on this historic Georgian grape variety that is slowly expanding in the U.S. beyond New York's Finger Lakes. I expect the 2025 Rkatsiteli ($26) to show the variety’s typical combination of citrus, apple, and light spicey notes. I recently opened a bottle of white Cabernet Franc from Capstone Vineyards and this style must be a new trend as Cave Ridge offers a 2024 Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($27). To produce a white Cabernet Franc, the grapes are whole cluster pressed -- quickly after harvest -- to prevent any red pigments in the juice.  Expecting a well structured wine with a lengthy finish.

Update: Well, we opened the 2025 Rkatsiteli and it is excellent. Light apple to pear on the nose followed by more concentrated pommeau character, subtle spices, and juicy acidity. Should have purchased more than one bottle. 

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop1: The Winery at Kindred Pointe

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia.  It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River.  The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.

Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Our first stop of this trip was at The Winery at Kindred Pointe which sits within the central agricultural landscape of the Shenandoah Valley. The winery operates on a property that originally functioned as an equestrian farm. The transition to grape growing began in the early 2010s, when the owners planted varieties suited to the conditions of the region. The tasting room and surrounding structures retain elements of the site’s earlier use, including the horse imagery that appears on several wine labels. The winery produces small quantities of wine from estate fruit and from growers within the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area.

The tasting flight offered at Kindred Pointe shows how they leverage the history and regional strengths of the Valley. We started with the Saving the Edinburg Mill ($32) , a blend of Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, and Dazzle, that references the preservation of the historic pre-civil war era mill. For those like us newly introduced to the Dazzle grape, it was developed by the University of Arkansas that they describe as "floral and fruity with herbal and spicy aromas".  Expect to enjoy peaches and other lively stone fruit while admiring the artwork. 

We then moved on to a pair of Seyval Blanc wines starting with the stainless steel 2022 Seyval Blanc ($28). The is a fresh grapefruit forward wine with fantastic acidity. In contrast, the 2021 Seyval Blanc Skins ($28) was fermented on the skins which adds texture, tannin, and deeper color, while providing a more savory dimension that differs from the stainless‑steel style. 

Turning to reds, Petit Verdot is a major focus appeared in two vintages and a blend. The 2019 Petit Verdot French ($35) is aged 36 months in French oak and shows how long aging softens tannins and integrates dark fruit flavors. The velvety fruit is layered with soft vanilla and earthy characters. The 2020 Petit Verdot ($32) offers a comparison shaped by both the vintage and aging in American oak for the same 36 month period. This version is spicier, not as velvety, and with closer to smokey cedar. The final wine wine to discuss is their 2021 Hungarian Blend ($38), an interesting and unique blend of equal parts Chambourcin, Petit Verdot, and Dornfelder.  The typical Chambourcin profile is hidden as the 28 months in Hungarian oak and one year bottle aging softens the grapiness and allow the black fruit characters of the other two grapes to dominate.  This is a savory fire pit sipper. 

But instead of purchasing the Hungarian Blend I came home on a hunch with their single varietal 2021 Dornfelder ($36) that was aged for 36 months in new Hungarian oak. Check back to see if that was a good all.