EWE25: Solving a Grape’s Identity: Using DNA or Ampelography? Norton or Cynthiana

As Eastern viticulture reemerged after Prohibition in the late 1960s, Norton and Cynthiana were mixed in vineyards and officially deemed as synonymous. -- Lucie Morton

With the return of the Norton and Cynthiana grapes post-prohibition in Missouri, Virginia, Arkansas (courtesy of Stone Hill Winery in Missouri, Horton Vineyards in Virginia, and Post Familie Vineyards in Arkansas) the common perception was that the two grapes were either clones or synonyms. Modern genetic data based on single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNP’s) could not distinguish Norton from Cynthiana as a phylogenetic tree constructed based on 1.2 million SNP’s could not differentiate Norton from Cynthiana.  

Yet, independent viticulturist Lucie Morton strongly disagrees that they are the same cultivar and by using Ampelography -- the study of a grape in terms of its historical record and physical characteristics in terms of leaf, cluster, berry and seed shape -- she asserts that the two grape varieties are completely different cultivars. At the 2025 Eastern Winery Exposition she presented this hypothesis through an analysis she conducted with Dean Volenberg (viticulture and winery operations specialist at the University of Missouri) and Diego Berrios Galaz - winemaker at Virginia's Casanel Vineyards. The results are also available in the March 2025 edition of Wine Business Monthly.  I sure wish this presentation or the companion article were available before my Norton seminar at the February BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy. The rest of this post merges information from the presentation and the Grape Sleuthing Through History WBM article. 

The Norton grape was born in the vineyard of Dr. Daniel Norton around 1820 when he tried to pollinate the Bland grape with Pinot Meunier. Instead a free-living V. aestivalis replaced the  Burgundian grape as the pollinator. Since the Bland and the V. aestivalis gapes had some labrusca and vinifera in their DNA, the Norton grape is comprised of various percentages of V. labrusca, V. vinifera, and V. aestivalis. 

Cynthiana was long thought to have originated in Arkansas, but Morton researched historical records that pinpoint the grapes origination in Red River, Ohio in the 1840s. At that time, Ohio was the leading grape growing region in the United States. The famed Prince Nursery in Flushing Long Island listed a variety called Red River in 1844 and in its 1858 catalogue changed the name to Cynthiana (Syn Red River). The Arkansas wine industry did not really take off until the 1870s. (Norton had been included in the Prince Nursery catalogue since 1822). 

In Missouri, George Hussmann (considered a father of the Missouri wine industry) received cuttings of both Norton and Cynthiana and in 1859 wrote, "The Cynthiana (Red River) originated in Ohio; in appearance it is very much like the former (Norton); makes, however a wine of a lighter color..."  And "U.P. Hedrick opined in The Grapes of New York (1908) that Norton and Cynthiana must be considered as distinct varieties." Thus, up until prohibition they were considered two separate grape varieties". 

After Prohibition, both Norton and Cynthiana survived thanks to a single vineyard outside of Hermann, Missouri. While searching to bring Norton back to Stone Hill Winery, Jim Held heard of the Rauch Vineyard which had been planted with Norton before the Civil War.  While visiting this vineyard a couple years ago and using  ampelographic methodology, Morton and Volenberg determined that the vines were a mixture of both Norton and Cynthiana. Morton has also used this approach to determine that the apparent Norton grown at Virginia's Burnley Vineyards is actually Cynthiana.  Detailed records showed that they had purchased the vines from Post Familie Vineyards in Arkansas. Morton repeated this exercise at Casanel Vineyards and with their team designated rows of both Norton and Cynthiana - which the winery had assumed was only Norton. And the Norton vines at both Horton Vineyards and Chrysalis Vineyards contains a mix of the Cynthiana vines that were found in the source vines from Horton via Hermann, Missouri. 

What are the ampelographic differences between Norton and Cynthiana?  The Norton leaf can resemble a "bat wing" through its lateral lobes and is longer than wider, thinner leaf veins, with triangular teeth. The Cynthiana leaf resembles a "spade-bit" through its lateral lobes and is wider than long, thicker leaf veins and round-based arches with tips for teeth. Its clusters contain larger and longer berries than Norton's and its smaller greener seeds cling to the pulp. Whereas with Norton, the seeds are larger and redder and do not cling to the pulp. See the companion image, but the last notable difference is that the dormant buds for Cynthiana are little triangles pointed to conical, whereas for Norton, they have a rounder base often compressed, obtuse to conical. See images below. 

Why We are Attending the Eastern Winery Exposition

"EWE coordinates the biggest trade show outside of the West Coast.  This dynamic conference offers industry members to learn from the vendors who often can supply a wide range of practical advice and discuss the latest vineyard and winery equipment. The EWE seminars feature regional winemakers and entrepreneurs who willingly offer their success stories.. And given the neo-prohibition headwinds now facing the industry, the fresh and innovative ideas shared by forward thinking marketers at the License to Steal sessions provide realistic, cutting-edge suggestions on how to navigate the difficult challenges coming our way." -- Donniella Winchell, Executive Director, Ohio Wines

The Eastern Winery Exposition touts itself as the "Largest Production Wine and Grape Trade Show and Conference in the East" and that reason alone, should be incentive for any wine industry professional to pack their bags for Lancaster, PA.  Shame on me for never attending in the past. 

But this year I set March 25-27th aside on my calendar initially just for the multiple networking opportunities available during the three days.  On Tuesday March 25th, there is a two hour Welcome Wine Reception where attendees are able to sample wines from throughout the Eastern region as the greet and meet other professionals. On Wednesday March 26th there is both a Networking Lunch as well as the 13th Annual EWE Industry Celebration Reception & Dinner. Then on the final day, expect expanded exhibit hall hours to converse with exhibiters and attendees.

“The Eastern Winery Exposition provides opportunities for wine industry leaders to share knowledge, experiences, and wines in an engaging environment,” says Devon Perry, Executive Director of the Garden State Wine Growers Association. “The New Jersey wine community is enthusiastically committed to the future of this mission.” -- Devon Perry, Executive Director Garden State Wine Growers Association

If that wasn't enough incentive to attend, the seminar schedule truly is - not only for producers - but also for content creators who need to master some level of industry proficiency in order to produce higher quality material. Tuesday is dedicated to workshops focusing on the TTP, Workplace Safety, Taxes, and Succession Planning. We have already wrote about the numerous instances when the founders of a family enterprise want to retire, but their children have no plans to continue in the industry.  I'm also interested in the Bioprotection Strategies for Juice and Wine workshop where microorganisms could replace various chemical preservatives. 

“The Maryland Wineries Association sponsors the Eastern Winery Exposition each year because it’s a very important opportunity for our wine community to learn, network and share best practices. EWE provides the space for collaboration and the chance to take some time from day to day winery operations to gather with others from the Eastern wine region. Wine is communal, and everyone leaves this conference feeling part of the greater community, encouraged that there is support and appreciation for all of the hard work they do, and then energized to try new things going forward.” -- Janna Howley,  Cultivate & Craft 

Now, Wednesday is the most intensive day of seminars and workshops. It includes the License to Steal Wine Marketing Conference® (LTS) that is a full Marketing track as part of the EWE Conference. The other seminars fall within three other buckets: Enology, Viticulture, and a combination of the two (EV).  The later is represented by Solving a Grape’s Identity: Using DNA or Ampelography? We Say Both! presented by Lucie Morton, Adam McTaggart & Dean Volenberg. This session focuses on Norton and Cynthiana and will try to answer the delicate question,  Are these cultivars unique? Since I am dabbling in oak treatment I will not miss the Enology session: Stavin Barrel Alternatives presented by Megan Hereford, Emily Hodson & Scott Spelbring. Another interesting Enology session is Gamay’s Versatility and Potential by Robert Muse & Christine Vrooman. And on the Viticulture side, I plan on learning about the USDA/NIFA SCRI Planning Project through the Grape & Wine Industry Needs Assessment Results session. 

"To me, the conference has a three part purpose. Firstly, the trade show is worth the day all by itself. But I get a lot out of the conference. A lot our best practices we learned at EWE, vineyard management, winemaking techniques, winemaking materials, processes, etc. And then the final third was not only seeing friends from around the east coast but exchanging information with them in a meaningful way. Who's planting what grapes. Who's using what yeast. What's a new trend that's really moving the needle. You can always do what you are doing better. And have I mentioned the Grand Tasting or the Auction? It's a great event. I have never missed a year except for COVID. Always a valuable event in the eastern winery calendar." -- Carlo DeVito, Author and Interim Winemaker at Unionville Vineyards

The LTS track continues on Thursday and ends with Practical Ideas When Working with Influencers. At BevFluence we have several ideas within that domain.  I highly recommend the EV session on Grapes for a Changing Climate II primarily because it is presented by Dr. Joseph Fiola and always has an interesting set of alternative cultivars that he grows in various test plots - many with just a numeric name. On the Viticulture side take a looks at Grapes for a Changing Climate I where Dana Acimovic & Jeanette Smith evaluated over 50 old and new varieties from around the globe in terms of climate activity. On the Enology side, there are several sessions on white wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, <12% Alcohol or No Alcohol, and Aromatics & Texture.

Let us know if we are overlooking a must see session and we hope to see more content creators in attendance.  Learning about the wine industry is a never-ending process. Cheers.