Friday, November 24, 2017

A Tale of Two Zins for National Zinfandel Day

Wednesday November 15th was National Zinfandel Day and we received two Zinfandel wines for the occasion. They are from two different geographic locations in California, Mendocino in the coastal north and Lodi in the Central Valley. Both share a Mediterranean climate with warm days and cool nights associated with breezes that provide both regions with a "reliable, natural air conditioning throughout the growing season". They both also share a large preponderance of small family vineyards, in many cases multi-generational.

In Lodi, the 2013 D'Art Lodi Zinfandel ($26, 14% abv) is sourced from grapes grown in the Mokelumne River sub-AVA on an 86 year old vineyard that was planted in sandy loam soils. This soil type helps provide a boldness to the wine that accompanies the jammy berry and fig flavors. The nose seems a tad hot, but the peppery finish is very smooth with enough tannins to lift the palate off the fruit characters.

On the other hand, the 2016 Artezin Mendocino Zinfandel ($18, 14.5% abv) is a blend of 85% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah, & 5% Carignan, This is a Hess Collection brand intended to "honor the art of making Zinfandel from old vine plantings and work with family owned farms throughout Mendocino and Sonoma Counties". Many of these family farms are featured in the website's Meet the Farmers section which includes Paul Dolan and his bio-dynamic The Dark Horse Ranch. And the blend composition is reminiscent of the early Italian immigrants who grew grapes for home wine-making and blended these varietal wines to achieve robustness. The Artezin is robust as well with a dried cherry aroma, a pleasant peppery and fig palate, and a subtle peppery but smooth finish. Plenty of acids too. Nicely done for both of these wines and cheers to National Zinfandel Day.

Tuesday, November 21, 2017

#FirstSipNZ with a Trio from Villa Maria Estate Winery

We have found over the years that Villa Maria Estate Winery is a reliable option for affordable New Zealand wine and a recent #FirstSipNZ tasting showcased three of these popular wines. The Villa Maria 2017 Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough ($14) is made from grapes sourced from the Awatere Valley and Wairau Valley. The former provides the powerful lemongrass aroma whereas the later citrus and tropical notes. Combine these with a creamy smooth body and fresh acids and this wine doesn't last long. The Villa Maria 2016 Private Bin Chardonnay, East Coast ($15) derives from the east coast of the north island such as Hawkes Bay and Gisborne. Although the grapes were fermented in stainless steel there is considerable depth and creaminess (not butter) due to partial malolactic and maturation with regular yeast stirring. The result is a pleasant lemon aroma, creamy citrus palate, and refreshing tail. Like the Sauvignon Blanc, the Villa Maria 2016 Private Bin Pinot Noir, Marlborough ($18) is also sourced from the Awatere and Wairau Valleys. This is a very interesting Pinot, the aroma includes a slightly spicy vege mushroom sensation, whereas the light body contains smoked cherries, and the finish a smooth juicy dried cherry flavor. A house favorite. Cheers.

Friday, November 17, 2017

Discovering the Symphony Grape at Oak Crest Vineyard & Winery

When crossing the Potomac into Virginia on Route 301, theCompass Craft Beverage Finder shows that Oak Crest Vineyard & Winery is the first winery when entering the Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace AVA. It is one of the oldest wineries on the peninsula -- opening in 2002 by Conrad Brandts. Although his family started growing grapes in the 1960s, Brandts planted his vineyard in 1986 with the assistance of grafted Cabernet vines from Gabriele Rausse. Then on a research trip to California he heard about a new hybrid grape developed at U.C. Davis and visited the creator Dr. Harold Olmo. This pioneering viticulturist created more than 30 new grape varieties such as Ruby Cabernet and Symphony - the subject of Brandts' visit.

This crossing of Muscat of Alexandria and Grenache Gris was developed for hot growing regions - more suitable to the humid Northern Neck than the Riesling that Brandts had originally intended to plant. With two decades in the vineyard, Symphony is Oak Crest's signature grape produced as a sweet single varietal Symphony ($17) and in the off dry Moonlight Sonata ($16). This wine is marketed as a German Rhine styled wine and that's close to the mark: a Gewurtz-Riesling combo with muscat-like bouquet, spicy creamy body that combines grapefruit and stone fruit, and a balance between sweetness and acidity. This was a hit at a recent family party. Looking forward to visiting more wineries along the Northern Neck very soon. Cheers.

Monday, November 13, 2017

Left Coast Cellars Estate Pinot Noir: The Right Latitude at 45°

The 356 acres that comprise Oregon's Left Coast Cellars' estate are situated on the 45 parallel north - equidistant from the equator and the north pole and the location of many of the world's most respected wine regions. This line crosses Bordeaux and Cotes du Rhone, Piedmont and Veneto, Croatia's Istrian Peninsula, and in America: Michigan's Leelanau Peninsula and of course, Oregon's Willamette Valley. What makes 45° N so special? The angle of the sun? Temperature? Who knows, and obviously other factors such as elevation, soil, weather, and tradition all play a larger role in the success or failure of a particular wine-growing area. But there's no doubt that this line is ingrained in our wine consciousness.

The Left Coast Cellars Latitude 45° 2015 Estate Pinot Noir ($38) is forged from 100% Dijon clone grapes grown on their 10.4 acre Latitude 45 estate vineyard. The vineyard is south facing and planted in Chehulpum silt loam soil. This young sedimentary soil was deposited as recently as 10,000 years ago by the Missoula Floods that created the Columbia Gorge. This soil provides the dusty character associated with this single vineyard wine that seamlessly integrates with the bright cherry and spicy flavors. This is a delicious wine, soft and smooth tannins, which generates true sorrow when the bottle is emptied. Cheers.

Friday, November 10, 2017

BlueDyer Distilling: Distilled and Bottled in Waldorf Maryland

"Distilled and Bottled in Waldorf Maryland" is what you see on each bottle of BlueDyer Distilling spirits as this two year old distillery is the southernmost in the Old Line State. And its an ideal stop along Route 301 for those visiting Virginia's Northern Neck wine region.

The operation was founded by Ryan Vierheller and Walker Dunbar and pays homage to a family tradition of distilling as Ryan’s great-grandfather’s copper pot still is displayed behind the tasting bar. In fact, his family started farming, milling, and distilling in 1720 -- augmenting the production of blue dye from indigo. This occurred in southern Pennsylvania which makes one wonder if they were involved in the Whiskey Rebellion. And it was Ryan's grandfather, with the family now living in Stafford County Virginia, who taught Ryan the distilling process.

The current "BlueDyer" operation utilizing a 165-gallon hybrid re-flux still with three bubble caps and stresses quality at fair prices. Very fair prices. The current lineup includes their signature rum, a heavily corn based whiskey, and two gins.  And as always, you can find this distillery using theCompass Craft Beverage Finder. Cheer.

Original Gold Rum ($24, 80 Proof)
BlueDyer's flagship spirit and based on a family recipe. This rum is made from molasses and pure cane sugar, distilled four times, and finished in high charred oak barrels from Minnesota. This short aging process allows the oak to round out the flavors and dampen the alcohol without overshadowing the sweet profile. It is medium bodied, extremely smooth, with hints of honey. Tasty and a bargain at this price.

BlueDyer Bourbon Mash Whiskey ($35, 80 Proof)
This whiskey is composed of a bourbon mash of 80% corn, 7% rye grain, and 13% malted barley; distilled four times; and aged in charred oak casks with cherry wood used as a finishing flavor. Another medium bodied spirit without major oak influences, the sweet corn profile is prevalent followed by the mellowing influence of the barley and a little spice from the rye. Clearly more flavor than 100% corn moonshine and should be a preferred cocktail base for bartenders.

BlueDyer Gin ($26, 80 Proof)
This grain based gin meets my preferred flavor profile - as little juniper as legally possible with a broader amount of citrus botanicals. I enjoy this neat as the citrus provides a clearly superior taste over a traditional vodka and lime. I think I'm returning to gin. Nicely done.

Monday, November 6, 2017

Don Ciccio & Figli and Sunny Sweeney Deliver Trophies

Washington DC is a growing spirits town with most of the new distilleries concentrating on gin. However there's one celebrating the fruit liqueur from Southern Italy's Amalfi Coast: Don Ciccio & Figli.  Francesco ‘Ciccio’ Amodeo, President and Master Distiller, grew up along the Amalfi Coast where his family has been distilling fruit liqueur since 1883. Sadly after both his grandfathers resuscitated the distillery in the 1950s,  a massive earthquake destroyed the facility in 1980. But in October 2012 Amodeo continued this family legacy by opening Don Ciccio & Figli in Northwest DC  specializing in bitter aperitifs and fruit liqueur such as the Don Ciccio & Figli - Fragola Strawberry Liqueur ($33). This spirit weighs in at only 25% ABV and uses only fresh strawberries with not artificial flavoring. The profile is slightly sweet, but a decent bite that's noticeable and without heat. I sipped neat, but my family created Prosecco based cocktails - use brut and not extra dry or dry.  

The Fragola's flavor profile reminded me of Texas singer-songwriter Sunny Sweeney, particularly with her latest release Trophy.  Her voice is sweet with a a pure country sound whereas the songs on the album are stinging and emotional. The signature song is the playful Better Bad Idea but more seriously there's Pass the Pain followed by Pills, Bottle by My Bed, and my favorite I Feel Like Hank Williams Tonight. Written by Chris Wall this song is solemn but peaceful. Listen to the end as Unsaid showcases her strong vocals. This album should catapult Sweeney to the forefront of the County Music scene as is happening in the Americana world - it's one serious album.  Cheers to Sweeney and Don Ciccio & Figli.

Thursday, November 2, 2017

A Trio of Wine from Murrieta’s Well While Listening to The White Buffalo

Although owned and operated by members of the Chardonnay-famed Wente family, Murrieta’s Well grows 20 different grape varieties at their Livermore Valley AVA estate. In fact the original vineyard was planted using cuttings from the Bordeaux estates of Chateau d’Yquem and Chateau Margaux back in 1884. Today, this estate is segmented into specific vineyards based on the property's various micro-climates, with the Hayes vineyard providing grapes for eleven varieties. Many of these varieties are included in three blends I recently received from the winery -- all showcasing the delicious wines being produced at Murrieta's Well as well as the larger Livermore Valley.

Murrieta’s Well The Spur Red Wine Blend Livermore Valley 2014 ($30) is a blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Petite Sirah, 14% Petit Verdot, 10% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc grown in different vineyards throughout estate. The wine was fermented independently and after blending aged 24 months in 50% new, 25% second use, and 25% third use French oak. This is a very pleasant wine; smooth and chewy; yet enough dark cherries and spices to complement the soft tannins. A neighborhood favorite. 

Murrieta’s Well Dry Rosé Livermore Valley 2016 ($30) is a blend of 55% Grenache and 45% Counoise - the later a Rhone grape variety allowed into the blend of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine. The grapes are grown in the estate Hayes vineyard, gently pressed and cold fermented separately. This wine is all strawberries from head to tail complemented by melons and crisp acids.

Murrieta’s Well The Whip White Wine Blend Livermore Valley 2015 ($24) is a blend of 30% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon, 30% Chardonnay, 7% Viognier, and 3% Muscat Canelli grown in different vineyards in the winery's estate. Most of the juice was fermented in stainless steal, although a portion of the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were fermented in small oak barrels. The the blended wine is aged 14 months where 1/3 in used French Oak and 2/3 in stainless steel tanks. This process provides a roundness and creaminess in addition to the bright flavors and acidity. And the aromatics from the Viognier and Muscat Canelli account for the stone fruit and floral launch. Nicely done.

These wines were paired with the latest release from The White Buffalo, Darkest Darks, Lightest Lights. LA-based songwriter Jake Smith writes meaningful folk songs performed in the various styles of blues, rock, and soul. The feature track Avalon is getting plenty of airplay on SiriusXM Outlaw Country; this is one catchy tune. The album oscillates from the gritty to the ballads as in The Robbery and The Observatory or Nightstalker Blues and If I Lost My Eyes. Like his previous releases, I placed this at the front of my listening queue. Cheers.