Barbera d’Asti Through the Wines of Vinchio Vaglio

This landscape covers five distinct wine-growing areas with outstanding landscapes and the Castle of Cavour, an emblematic name both in the development of vineyards and in Italian history. It is located in the southern part of Piedmont, between the Po River and the Ligurian Apennines, and encompasses the whole range of technical and economic processes relating to the winegrowing and winemaking that has characterized the region for centuries. Vine pollen has been found in the area dating from the 5th century BC, when Piedmont was a place of contact and trade between the Etruscans and the Celts; Etruscan and Celtic words, particularly wine-related ones, are still found in the local dialect. During the Roman Empire, Pliny the Elder mentions the Piedmont region as being one of the most favourable for growing vines in ancient Italy; Strabo mentions its barrels." -- Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato - UNESCO

Barbera d’Asti is one of the most famous wines from the Piedmont region of north-western Italy, focusing on soft and approachable styles of Barbera. In 1959 the cooperative Vinchio Vaglio was created, representing 192 family wine growers and 450 hectares.  Located in the Piedmont Monferrato above, the members of Vinchio Vaglio witnessed their Barbera d’Asti becoming a DOC in 1970 and upgrading to its current DOCG classification in 2008. 

Map courtesy of UNESCO.

"The DOCG catchment area is located in the hilly areas of the Asti and Alessandria provinces in eastern Piedmont, where the region shares its borders with Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna. The vineyards which produce Barbera d'Asti wine are typically situated on hilly terrain, ranging in altitude anywhere from 90 to 300 meters (300ft to 1,000ft). The territory spans a relatively large area that adjoins the production area of Barbera d’Alba to the northeast. In 2018 3,384 hectares (8,358 acres) were recorded for the appellation. Production in the following year was just over 16 million liters, equivalent to just under 1.8 million cases." -- winesearcher.com.

Through the Hopwine program, we tasted several wines from Vinchio Vaglio, all 100% Barbera and reflecting unique vineyards sites within the region. For instance, the Vigne Vecchie (Old Vineyards) label designates a program started by Giuliano Noè with the purpose of safeguarding historical vineyards.  The program sources Barbera grapes from within the cooperative that are at least 50 years old.  The "I tre Vescovi" (The three bishops) brand is made from grapes grown in the “core zones” of the UNESCO World Heritage “Vineyard Landscapes of Piedmont.” This name refers to the area where the borders of the towns of Acqui Terme, Alessandria, and Asti meet and where according to legend the bishops of these three dioceses used to meet on this neutral ground to hold discussions. 

Barbera d’Asti D.O.C.G. Superiore I Tre Vescovi 2018

The 100% Barbera wine is sourced from core zones of the UNESCO World Heritage Vineyard Landscapes of Piedmont. It is aged in 75 hl large French oak casks and barrique for 12 months followed by an additional month in stainless steel tanks and six months in the bottle before release. It starts with a vibrant floral and mint aroma which leads to a juicy and textured body elevated by the approachable acids and tannins. 

Barbera d’Asti D.O.C.G. Vigne Vecchie 50° 2018
This 100% Barbera celebrates the winery's 50th Anniversary and is from the Vigne Vecchie - Old Vineyards project. This wine was aged only in stainless steel, no oak, in order to maintain the true characteristics of the grape. This wine is fantastic - floral and herbaceous with cherry barnyard earthiness and sufficient tannins regardless of oak. 

Nizza Riserva D.O.C.G. Laudana 2016
Bricco Laudana is the name of a south-facing ridge of hills between Vinchio and Mombercelli in which this Barbera is sourced. The sandy soils with a relatively small content of clay produce grapes with elevated aromas and structure; whereas the south-facing exposure and mild winds provide conditions that lengthen the growing season.  The "Nizza" refers to a philosophy combining innovation and tradition which in this case leads to 18 months of aging in new oak and second and third-year French barrique. The wine then rests in cement tanks for another month prior to bottling, followed by six months of bottle aging before release. Expect healthy dark cherries, sizzling acidity, and chewy tannins. 

Barbera d’Asti D.O.C.G. Sorì dei Mori 2019
This relatively young Barbera is sourced from grapes with the core UNESCO zone and is aged for only six months in cement tanks prior to bottling, followed by three months of bottle aging. Once again, no oak. Expect a very fruit-forward pleasant wine with enough rustic character to remain interesting. 

Vineyard Pests: Brood X Periodical Cicadas Coming to a Vineyard Near You

This was the title of an article in the March 2021 Viticulture Notes by Tony K. Wolf, Viticulture Extension Specialist, AHS Jr. Agricultural Research and Extension Center, Winchester, Virginia and based on information from Dr. Doug Pfeiffer’s fruit extension site: https://www.virginiafruit.ento.vt.edu/. 

For those of us in Fairfax County Virginia, the 17-year, periodical cicada ‘Brood X’ has emerged in full force creating a mess on our driveways and walkways while emitting a deafening racket.  According to the Viticulture Notes article, residents of the northern Shenandoah Valley and parts of the northern piedmont can expect a similar situation. But what effect will the cicadas have on vineyards?  I reached out to several growers and wine producers and want to thank Jake Busching (Jake Busching Wines), Shannon Horton (Horton Vineyards), Jennifer Breaux (Breaux Vineyards), and Jack Sexton (Williams Gap Vineyard) for their responses.

https://www.cicadas.info/

Jake Busching had the most succinct answer. "Cicadas will harm new canes. They have a saw on their abdomen that cuts deep furrows into the cane so they can inject their eggs. The cane will most likely die from that point outwards. If you have older pruned vines you’re fine".  And Wolf explains, "...because lateral buds and shoots can easily compensate for the shoot damage that can occur with older vines ... injured shoots will be pruned off later ".  He continues, "However, young vines are subject to severe injury, with females using even the trunks as oviposition sites.  Oviposition may occur at multiple sites on one shoot or young trunk; affected areas become weak and will break easily (Eggs in the shoots may be seen on dissection of the injured material). Young vineyards should be protected."

It's obviously too late now, but the best advice is not to plant a new vineyard 1-2 years before an expected emergence of periodical cicada. 

WhistlePig 10 Year Rye and The Auctioneer

Thanks to Melania (Dallas Wine Chick) and her recent spirit exchange I received a bottle of the WhistlePig 10 Year Rye ($50, 100 proof) that began with the help of the late Master Distiller Dave Pickerell. They "discovered and purchased an incredible stock of 10-year-old blending Whiskey in Canada that was being profoundly misused".  This whiskey was then aged in new American Oak at the distillery in Shoreham Vermont to allow the rye to reach its full potential. This spirit is complex, with lots of baking spices on the nose, followed by the spicy rye mingling with caramel and vanilla that extends into the long and hot tail. 

WhistlePig has also launched an interesting barrel program where they experiment with various used casks as well as local, sustainably harvested, Vermont Estate Oak barrels.  The former include Sauternes, Madeira, and Port casks whereas the latter includes a custom toast profile for the Vermont oak. I need to try the 12-Year-Old aged in these world casks and the 15 Year Old aged in Vermont Oak. 

In the meantime, I'll be sipping this 10-Year_old over ice or in The Auctioneer, a cocktail that the distillery recommends where I heated the honey with a little water so it dissolves easily and used the Puerto Rico Distillery Coffee Rum with an equal amount of the Burmuda Coconut Liqueur.  Cheers.

The Auctioneer
1 ½ oz PiggyBack Rye
1 bar spoon local Honey
¼ oz Coconut Rum
½ oz Mr. Black Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur
Orange for garnish

Directions
Add all ingredients to an old fashioned glass.
Stir without ice to incorporate honey.
Add ice.
Stir again.
Garnish with an orange twist.

Sud-Ouest France, Fronton, Gaillac, & IGP Comte Tolosan Through the Wines of Vignobles Arbeau

Sud-Ouest France (south-West, France) is a large territorial zone stretching just southwest of Bordeaux to the Atlantic Ocean and bordering the Pyrenees to the south.  It incorporates several administrative regions, diverse geographic areas, and multiple wine grapes and styles. This includes sweet wines from Jurancon and Monbazillac; tannic, full-blooded reds from Cahors (Côt aka Malbec) and Madiran (Tannat); sparkling wines from Gaillac; and a wide range of dry white wines.

Wine Scholar Guild

According to wine-searcher.com, "The soils, climates, and topography of the South West are as wide-ranging as its wines. The presence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea means that much of the region has a maritime climate, but there are inland areas that make use of the drier, hotter summers created by their more continental climate. The Garonne, Dordogne, Lot, and Tarn rivers bring alluvial soil types (clay, sand, gravel) to much of the region. Other vineyard areas, such as Irouleguy and the wider Bearn are also set on the steep slopes and foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, offering a variety of stone types, along with varying altitudes and aspects".

A recent Hopwine exhibition included a couple wineries from the Sud-Ouest starting with Vignobles Arbeau. The winery and estate (Château Coutinel) are located in the village of Labastide Saint Pierre, within the AOP Fronton, with the village located 42km north of Toulouse and about equidistant between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. They also range beyond AOP Fronton to other South-West domains: AOP Gaillac, IGP Comté Tolosan, and IGP Côtes du Tarn. Our friends at Grape Experiences have a post concerning the winery's history and signature Négrette grape. 

AOP Fronton is an appellation to the north of Toulouse known for its rustic red wines (around 85 percent of production) in addition to smaller amounts of rosé. At least 50 percent of any Fronton vineyard must be planted with the Negrette grape (40% of any blended wine). Since the berries are small and tightly bundled, they are susceptible to powdery mildew and grey rot. Thus, the vines prefer hot, dry growing conditions and thrive in Fronton's dry, semi-continental climate. It is also particularly fond of the region's acidic, sandy clay boulbène soil type. 

Chateau Coutinel France - Sud-Ouest AOC Fronton Rosé 2020
This is a blend of 70% Négrette, 15% Syrah, and 15% Gamay grown on boulben, sandy-silt, and sometimes gravely soils.  This is a pleasant wine, candied cherry aroma, velvety texture, and lifting acids.

Chateau Coutinel France - Sud-Ouest AOC Fronton 2019
Same blend and soil types as the rosé showing fresh sizzling raspberries. Poprocks?

Chateau Coutinel Négrette / On L'appelle Négrette France - Sud-Ouest Fronton 2019
100%  Negrette grown on same soil types. This is a delicious wine, juicy and dense blackberries, some licorice, with suitable tannins and acids.

IGP Comte Tolosan is a large sub-region in the Sud-Ouest and encompasses 12 administrative departments, including the sub-regions of Jurançon, Cahors and Armagnac. The IGP label provides a geographical classification to wines that do not classify for the AOC-level appellations due to the grape variety or winemaking style. "Most IGP-related viticulture takes place in the center of the basin, along the course of the Garonne river. Old alluvial terraces provide well-drained, rocky environments for the vines, allowing for good flavor concentration in the grapes and deep, healthy root systems".

One popular grape in the IGP and other sub-regions is Braucol, a member of the Carmenets family and originating in the Spanish Basque Country. It is thought to have migrated to the region via pilgrims traveling the Way of Saint James. Specifically, it was spread by the Benedictine monks of Madiran and Conques who had recognized its rusticity allowing its cultivation in the Pyrenees and Aveyron. A synonym is Fer Servadou translating to wild and keeps well because it's a lambrusque (wild vine) and is highly resistant to mold. 

Domaine De Coutinel France - Sud-Ouest IGP Comté Tolosan Braucol 2020
This 100% Braucol wine begins with slight pepper but retains a soft elegance that carries through the finish.

AOP Gaillac is a historic wine-producing region located northeast of Toulouse and covers 64 communes spread out for roughly 20km (12 miles) from the town of Gaillac on the Tarn river. A further nine communes within the appellation lie on the other side of the town of Albi, on the eastern edge of the main winegrowing area. 

Duras – Fer – Syrah is the classic Gaillac wine blend with the Fer referring to Braucol. Together these three varieties make up at least 60 percent of any Gaillac red or rosé wine. Duras is an ancient grape variety, thought to have been introduced to France by the Romans more than 2000 years ago. In Sud-Ouest France, notably around Gaillac, it produces well-structured red wines full of color and alcohol.

Domaine Vaillieres France - Sud-Ouest AOP Gaillac 2019
This blend of 50% Braucol, 25% Duras, and 25% Syrah is from grapes from clay and limestone soils on the right bank of the Tarn River. It is very rustic, with a spicy-stoney character accentuated with a strong tannic backbone. A knockout.