Hiking the Appalachian Trail and Vineyards Views from Silver Dog Vineyards

With my new cyborg hip, I am finally able to hike again and decided to test my body with an excursion along the Appalachian Trail in Linden, Virginia.  The best place to start is the two small parking areas at the intersection of John Marshall Highway (Rt 55) and Rt 725 just east of Linden. For a challenging climb head north over the A.T. Bridge Crossing or for an easier hike, walk south.

But afterwards, be sure to visit one of the five wineries surrounding Linden: Silver Dog Vineyards, Linden Vineyards, Capstone Vineyards, Crimson Lane Vineyards, and Accord Vineyards (formerly Fox Meadow Vineyards). I decided to start my post-hike recovery at Silver Dog Vineyards. I had seen the vineyard many times during visits to Capstone and the winery just opened to the public late this summer.   

Getting to the tasting room is slightly challenging, requiring navigation of a short but steep gravel road. However, the drive also demonstrates how the steep terrain benefits the vines. First, the steep grade allows for ample drainage, ensuring the grapes must struggle for water. Second, the grade and elevation minimize frost damage. This was evident during the April 2026 freeze, when only the lowest-planted vines suffered damage, whereas those at higher elevations survived mostly unaffected.

These vines were first planted in 2018, when Eric Gronning convinced his wife, Lori Robertson, to expand their roles in the wine industry. At the time, they owned Maple, a wine bar and restaurant in the Columbia Heights neighborhood of Washington, D.C. Gronning chose to plant a combination of common French grape varieties, including Petit Manseng, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, along with two Italian varieties less common in the Commonwealth: Barbera and Sagrantino. He utilizes the assistance of Virginia Tech's Virginia Cooperative Extension - a program that provides a wealth of information for potential viticulturists. The grapes are processed and bottled at nearby Blue Valley Vineyard and Winery in Delaplane under the direction of wine consultant John Levenberg. 

Interestingly, the contemporary tasting room is completely off-grid, with solar-generated electricity, water supplied by an on-site well and spring, and captured rainwater used in the vineyard. The energy-efficient design incorporates large overhangs to provide shade in summer and large doors to take advantage of cooling winds, while expansive glass, steel, exposed concrete floors, and American cedar define the building's aesthetic. The tasting bar was also recently enhanced with a large, beautiful wood slab from a tree felled by a storm. These features don't surprise those who know that Eric is also an architect, furniture designer, and wood and steel fabricator through his company, Gronning Architects.

After arriving at this unparalleled tasting room and taking in the scenic views of Capstone and Crimson Lane, a flight of their five wines was in order. All the wines are made from estate grapes. Starting with the 2023 Chardonnay,  I found it well made. The wine combines barrel and stainless-steel fermentation, resulting in a savory mouthfeel balanced by lively acidity.  My overall favorite is their 2023 Rock Island Red - a blend of Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sagrantino.  Think fresh black cherries, a slight earthiness, approachable tannins, and balanced acidity. Their 2023 Barbera was close behind with its bright plum overtones and black pepper spicy kick at the tail. Well done.

Cheers.

A Vineyard Tour of 868 Estate Vineyards with a Taste of Uncork Loudoun

On September 20th, I participated in an Uncork Loudoun Winery Education Day at 868 Estate Vineyards. The event provided a behind-the-scenes look at Loudoun wine country as well as a tasting through a pilot group of 13 Loudoun County wineries.  This initiative connects sommeliers and buyers directly with winemakers to explore viticultural practices and varietals with the long-term goal to place a Loudoun Made, Loudoun Grown wine in every restaurant across Loudoun and surrounding counties, ultimately expanding into the Washington, DC market. 

Uncork Loudoun is a coordinated trade initiative launched by the Loudoun Wineries & Winegrowers Association (LWWA) to transform how restaurants and retailers source and sell local wine.  The program aims to increase the visibility and accessibility of Loudoun County wines across the DC region by focusing on education, unified marketing, and collaborative sales. 

The Education Day started with a glass of Iron Will Sparkling Viognier while 868 Estate tri-owner Nancy Deliso and winemaker Tim Kish gave a brief overview of the 15 year history of the winery. Then it was off the visit the production facility and walk through a portion of their 21 acres of vines. 

In normal years, 868 Estate produces approximately 4,000 cases of wine annually, but the last two years have not been normal, for Loudoun County, Virginia, or the East Coast. This was the case in 2022 and 2023 where ideal growing conditions led to a bumper crop which is helping the winery alleviate a dismal 2025 crop and a disastrous 2026 harvest.  This is a result of the April Freeze That Rewrote the 2026 Vintage where 868 is looking at a complete loss of their white grapes and 50% on their reds.  We walked alongside suffering Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc. And if was not just vinifera vines, even the Chambourcin and Chardonel were affected. 

Within the winery production facility we sampled a couple barrel aged wines, followed by their 2023 Estate Viognier. This wine shows by the Virginia marketing authorities designate Viognier as the Commonwealth's signature grape - although because of its temperamental behavior - is not widely grown.  This wine differs from many across the area, because Kish is a strong believer in whole-cluster fermentation where the entire grape clusters, including stems, are fermented.  This provides increased aromatic and flavor complexity in addition to adding more tannins and phenolic compounds which provide more structure and aging potential.

Back in the Vintner’s Table building, we sampled more wine from 868 Estate as well as other wines from the Uncork Loudoun portfolio. One of my favorite wines of the day was the 868 Estate 2025 Rosé - a blend of Cabernet Franc and Viognier made effervescent through forced carbonation. Of their reds, the 868 Estate 2022 Merlot was very pleasant with a fruit forward character transitioning to an earthy and herbaceous finish. That's 20% Cabernet Sauvignon will do. On the other side of the spectrum I have to comment on their 868 Estate 2022 Chardonnay which was a Gold Medal Winner at the 2024 Virginia Governor's Cup awards and provides green apples and citrus with a noticeable structure and fresh acidity.

For the Uncork Loudoun portfolio, there were another couple dozen of wines available to sample, mostly from Bordeaux region grapes. Our friends at October One Vineyard contributed another Merlot in their 2021 Loudoun County Merlot. The grapes come from their estate vineyard in Bluemont and is luscious red fruit - start to finish. Iron Will provided a trio of reds with their 2021 Cabernet Franc showing velvety red fruit and a nice tannic structure. On the white side of the isle, I kept returning to the Fabbioli Cellars 2023 Something White - a palate cleansing blend of Vidal Blanc and Petit Manseng. 

I hope to see more Uncork Loudoun events throughout the rest of 2026 and into 2027.  Afterward this event, I was able to visit a couple more Loudoun craft beverage establishments as well as a few more last weekend while trying to celebrate Oktoberfest. Stay tuned for more Loudoun County coverage. Cheers. 

A Rosé Day Marked by Pink Ash at Paradise Springs Winery

This spring and summer we've visited Paradise Springs Winery multiple times as its a convenient central destination for our friends living throughout NOVA. However after spending time with owner Kirk Wiles and winemaker Rob Cox at an event at Hawkley Brewing, we targeted visiting the winery for their annual Rosé Day. This day celebrates pink in all ways and in particularly the rosé wines from the winery's Fairfax and Santa Barbara locations. 

We hadn't tried any of these left coast wines and fortunately there was a bottle of the Pink Ash Sparkling Rosé ($75) ready on our arrival. The wine is a 60% Pinot Noir - 40% Chardonnay, méthode champenoise sparkler - very fruit forward, lively effervescence and a long satisfying finish.  Yet what immediately caught our eye was the beautiful artwork embedded in the label that obviously represented the traditional Paradise Springs logo. And the back label explained it was the work of actor-artist Billy Zane and that a third of all proceeds are donated to rebuilding communities affected by the 2017 Thomas Fire and later mudslides. 

Later Kirk poured us a sample of their 2025 Pink Ash Rosé ($35) - where the inaugural 2022 vintage was the impetus to the Zane collaboration. They met at a dinner party and conversed about the Santa Barbara winery, Zane's art work, and eventually about the recent natural disasters -- and decided to act.  The soon to be released rosé was crafted from grapes grown at the historic Sanford & Benedict estate in the Sta. Rita Hills, so at that location, Zane spread a canvas on the ground and created a label using ash and mud from the disasters -- plus a splash of rosé wine. See Billy Zane’s Righteous Rosé Label for the complete story. And we will provide a full review of the 2025 vintage once we open one of the bottles we purchased. 

Finally, this visit illustrated once again the difficult, onerous, and expensive aspects of viticulture where rows of normally flourishing estate vines had disappeared or showed signs of vine death. These vines were lost during The April Freeze That Rewrote the 2026 Vintage and will eventually be replaced with Cabernet Franc. This is a tedious, time consuming, and expensive process that requires removing the dead vines by cutting the stems at soil level and excavating the root system. This involves digging a trench 2–3 feet from the stump to locate and extract the major roots, ensuring no bud-bearing chunks remain to resprout. Then replanting involves thorough soil preparation and careful installation of new vines.  The soil must be amended with organic matter and deep plowed to break up compaction and improve drainage, potentially leaving it fallow for 1–3 years if soil-borne pests are a concern.  

This is a sober reminder that we need to support our local farms and vineyards. Vineyard life may seem glamorous, but in reality it is difficult, expensive, and prone to the whims of nature. 

Grape Spotlight: Virginia Blanc de Franc

Cabernet Franc is highly suitable for Virginia's climate because it ripens earlier than other red varieties, allowing it to avoid late-season rains and humidity that cause rot.  Its thicker skins and looser clusters provide natural disease resistance in these humid conditions, and its cold hardiness allows it to withstand winter temperatures better than varieties like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Thus it is not surprising that it is the most widely planted grape in the Commonwealth with 610 acres planted. (See the Virginia Wine 2025 Commercial Wine Grape Report - pdf.)  

From what I recall, this Spring I tasted my very first Blanc de Franc wine at Capstone Vineyards and very soon afterwards tasted versions from the Shenandoah Valley's Cave Ridge Vineyard and our local favorite: Paradise Springs Winery. 

First, a basic primer. Red grapes contain nearly colorless juice so the dark color associated with red wines comes from extended skin contact during fermentation. However, Blanc de Franc is a white wine made entirely from red wine grapes - in this case - Cabernet Franc, produced by pressing the red grapes immediately so that the clear juice is separated from the skins before any color or tannin can be extracted. By eliminating the skin contact, winemakers obtain a pale, essentially white wine from a red grape variety. 

The production of Blanc de Franc relies on extremely gentle handling and pressing to avoid extracting pigment or harsh phenolics. Some producers use only free‑run juice, which flows from the grapes before any mechanical pressure is applied. Fermentation typically occurs in stainless steel to preserve freshness, and the wine may be fractioned or clarified without skin contact. 

During a recent excursion to Capstone Vineyards we were able to compare their 2025 Blanc de Franc ($44) with the Cave Ridge 2024 Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($27). And a week later we sampled the Paradise Springs Winery Blanc de Franc 2024 ($34) at their Rosé Day Celebration. We found that each wine was significantly different despite using very similar whole cluster pressing methods to avoid as much as possible introducing red pigment into the wine. 

For the Capstone, the pressed juice was a little pinker than they had wanted and they relied on the fermentation process where yeast can naturally leach remaining color from the juice. The finished wine is pale and provides more green apple and stone fruit characters with ample acidity.  The Cave Ridge version has a slightly darker appearance, more citrus notes, and similar acidity that is tempered by a little residual sugar. Finally, the Paradise Springs release is the most complex, on the one hand a strong citrus profile that also joins with a few tropic notes. Lots of depth which made for a very pleasant fröccs. Cheers.

Understanding Certified Regenified™ Through Ashton Creek Vineyard

Recently we read that Ashton Creek Vineyard becoming the first vineyard in Virginia to earn Certified Regenified™ status.  We have written previously about Regenerative Farming and the various regulations stipulated through USDA Certified Organic, Demeter Biodynamic, or Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC).  But not Regenified™.

In general, Regenerative agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter

More specifically, Regenified™ provides a structured way to document how farming decisions influence soil function and long‑term site health. Its 6‑3‑4 Standard aligns with many practices already familiar to growers: reduced tillage, permanent or seasonal cover crops, mixed‑species plantings, maintaining living roots through the year, and the controlled use of livestock for vegetation management. 

The 6‑3‑4 Standard is Regenified™’s core framework for evaluating regenerative agriculture, combining six soil‑health principles, three rules of adaptive stewardship, and four ecosystem processes into a single, measurable structure. The six principles—context, minimizing disturbance, soil armor, diversity, living roots, and livestock integration—outline the foundational conditions needed for healthy soil function. The three adaptive‑stewardship rules emphasize planning with intent, monitoring conditions, and adjusting management as variability occurs. The four ecosystem processes—energy flow, water cycle, mineral cycle, and community dynamics—describe how a functioning landscape moves energy, water, and nutrients through the system. Together, these components allow Regenified™ to assess both the practices a producer implements and the ecological outcomes observed on the ground, forming the basis for its data collection and tiered certification program.

During verification, trained assessors collect more than sixty ecological data points within vineyard blocks—water infiltration in alleys, ground‑cover percentages, compaction layers that affect rooting depth, biological activity around root zones, and the diversity of plant communities that influence soil structure and pest dynamics. These measurements create a practical record of how the vineyard is functioning beyond yield and canopy metrics. Growers are then placed within a tiered certification system that reflects their current alignment with regenerative principles and the ecological outcomes observed on site. For vineyards interested in demonstrating stewardship with clear, repeatable criteria, the framework offers a consistent way to track progress and communicate improvements to buyers, neighbors, and regional partners.

Screenshot from Ashton Creek Vineyard's website.

In 2018, Ashton Creek Vineyard started struggling with ever-increasing inputs and declining soil health and two years later began moving to a more organic and regenerative approach to viticulture. The idea was to "fix the root cause of the sickness instead of always addressing the symptoms". For example, struggling to keep up with mechanical weeding, they introduced Dorper sheep to their vineyards to help control vegetation and enhance soil health. Next they released beneficial bugs to target vineyard pests and diversified their cover crop plantings. This process eventually led to the Regenified™ program and they earned Tier 3 Certified Regenified™ status in May 20, 2026.  This certification recognizes their "measurable progress in soil health and ecosystem function, achieved through practices such as replacing diesel mowers with a flock of sheep, eliminating synthetic inputs, and increasing soil organic matter". 

In practical terms, adopting these practices have allowed Ashton Creek Vineyard to "eliminate synthetic fertilizers and herbicides, decrease fungicide use by 40%, limit mowing and labor, reduce outside inputs by 65%, and increase their soil’s organic matter by 400% and carbon capture by 350%." --Virginia Farm Bureau. 

If other vineyards or farms are interested in replicating Ashton Creek Vineyard's success, our next Regenerative Farming post will explain the NRCS Regenerative Pilot Program - a new program encouraging regenerative farming through the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Natural Resources Conservation Service. 

Vineyard Mechanization Through Stone Tower Winery to the EWE

Alex Gamez, (Vineyard Manager, Stone Tower Winery) will focus on the persistent issue of soil erosion on steep terrain, detailing the practical steps taken to stabilize these slopes, including the use of a 1,200-lb. tandem disk harrow and aerial drone spraying. He will also touch on the adoption of laser bird deterrents and half-track tractors as part of a broader shift toward terrain-adapted vineyard management. - Session V06 | Vineyard Mechanization Update | Eastern Winery Exposition

Traditional tilling refers to the long-standing agricultural practice of mechanically agitating soil to prepare a seedbed, control weeds, and incorporate crop residues or fertilizers.  It typically involves primary tillage—such as ploughing with a mouldboard or chisel plow—to invert and loosen the soil to depths of 10–25 cm—followed by secondary tillage (e.g., disking, harrowing) to create a fine, smooth seedbed. This method is commonly known as conventional tillage, where less than 15% of crop residue remains on the soil surface after planting.  It is widely used in smallholder and commercial farming, especially where animal-drawn plows or tractors are available. The goal is to produce a weed-free, aerated, and well-structured seedbed that promotes rapid germination and root development. 

However, traditional tilling has significant drawbacks: it increases soil erosion, degrades soil structure, and accelerates organic matter loss.  Tillage erosion is a major form of soil degradation caused by conventional tilling practices, where mechanical implements move soil downslope. This erosion is even more pronounced on steep terrain and is a difficulty that Alex Gamez and Stone Tower Winery faced on one particularly plot where trenches that formed became more dangerous for traditional machinery and personnel. 

Stone Tower Winery farms 93 acres of vines, making it the largest estate vineyard in Virginia's Loudoun County. Managing this large estate is even more complex as the dozens of different grape varieties are planted across multiple terrains.  One of these being this steep seven acre plot will be the focus of his presentation in the V06 | Vineyard Mechanization Update session at the upcoming Eastern Winery Exposition.  

Alex will present the practical steps that Stone Tower used to stabilize this slope which including changing the machinery and relying on 3rd party aerial drone technology for fungicide and pesticide applications.  The powerful and stable half-track tractor navigates both slope trajectories providing safe usage for the team. It enables them to amend the soil more often than once a year and, along with the drone, helps minimize foot traffic on the steep slope.  Other challenges that he may mention are their plans to limit harm from the spotted lantern fly as well as the possibility of Pierce's Disease in the vineyard. 

Visitors to the winery will be impressed with the estate's rolling hills and the mountainous backdrop. Also impressive are two wines that winemaker James Phillips vinified from field blends. The first is the Sycolin Creek - a Rhone styled blend of 48% Viognier, 29% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne, 2% Grenache Blanc. Although the Viognier and Roussanne ripen very similarly, the Marsanne is later so the grapes are harvested when the Marsanne is a little under-ripe. The result is a very delicious and interesting wine where five months in French oak provide just enough texture without losing flavor and acidity. Similarly the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes for their Rosé (40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 36% Merlot) are a field blend harvested specifically for a direct press rosé styled wine. The Merlot was barrel fermented and provides fruitiness and texture to this refreshing wine.

On the Road to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery

I am very embarrassed to admit that this was my first visit to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery. And Culpeper is only about an hour drive away. In any case, it was well worth the visit. Our group tasted through a flight of beer, wine, and had a very impressive lunch from their Green Ribbon Kitchen. Beef Bourguignon for me.

The beer flight consisted of the Big Iron Lager, Harvest Ale 2025, Sunburnt Farmer, and Pure and Simple Stout. The later was excellent, served on Nitro, and paired nicely with the stew.  The Harvest Ale 2025 was another standout brewed with 100% malted wheat and blended with Vidal Blanc pressings. Thus the vintage label. The Big Iron Lager is an American Pre-prohibition lager with more body than expected. I also wonder if a little rice makes it into the mash bill. Finally, the Sunburnt Farmer is an amber farmhouse house brewed with rye and wheat.  Expect a very distinct profile.

The wine flight wove us through their Vidal Blanc, Rosie's Rose, Petit Verdot, and Bacchanalia Reserve (Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot blend). The reds were a surprise - my favorites of the flight. Nicely done. The Vidal Blanc is finished off-dry but the prolific acidity brightens the sugar blending it seamlessly into the tropical and stone fruits.  

Grape Spotlight: Virginia Gamay Through the EWE25

Gamay (Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc) is most famous for producing the fresh, red wines of Beaujolais. It is also grown in other parts of France (Maconnais, Loire region, and Savoie), in western Switzerland, and in the new world: Oregon, Washington, Canada, and more recently: the Commonwealth of Virginia.  Gamay grown in Virginia was a topic at the 2025 Eastern Winery Exposition through a session titled Gamay’s Versatility and Potential with Robert Muse (Muse Vineyards) & Christine Vrooman (Ankida Ridge Vineyards).

There is documented evidence that Gamay Noir has been planted in the Burgundy region since the 14th century. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, banned the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy because he felt it was inferior to Pinot Noir. Perhaps because DNA analysis shows that Gamay is an offspring of Pinot Noir and a white grape called Gouais Blanc. It was easier to grow than Pinot Noir and delivered larger yields, so local farmers preferred Gamay over Pinot Noir -- especially in Beaujolais.

                              Carbonic Maceration

Grapes are whole-bunch fermented in a sealed container which has been flushed with carbon dioxide, creating an anaerobic (oxygen-free) environment. Fermentation begins inside the still-whole berries, creating aromatic flavor compounds (phenols) not found in conventional fermentations. These compounds are responsible for the 'banana' and 'bubblegum' aromas associated with carbonically macerated wines. The technique produces wines which are fruitier and less tannic than those made from crushed grapes. Genuine, pure carbonic maceration is very hard to achieve, because the grapes at the bottom of the container typically split under the weight of the fruit above.

In the Shenandoah Valley, Robert Muse first planted Gamay in 2007 (most likely the first in Virginia)  and it has accepted the cold temperatures. The vines are planted at 750-1,000 feet elevation in soil types ranging from light loam to sandstone and alluvial deposits. Muse Vineyards uses carbonic maceration and after the internal fermentation the grapes are crushed and traditional fermentation occurs in stainless steel. The wine rests in these tanks for a year before bottling.  After bottling young, the wine is light bodied with low tannins; lively, fruity, and fresh aromatics. We have travelled to Woodstock on many occasions to enjoy this wine. The Gold medal it was recently awarded at the  2024 Virginia Governor's Cup is well deserved.

 

Moving south into the still higher Blue Ridge Mountains at Ankida Ridge Vineyards, the Vroomans decided to plant a test plot of Gamay in 2017 after several very successful years growing Pinot Noir.  They planted the 300 vines at 1,800 feet elevation in granite soils and learned that it out produces its Pinot harvest basically 3-1. This on top of dropping 1/3 of the Gamay berries. The Gamay also has a higher pulp to skin ratio leading to less tannin and color.  In 2023 they started vinifying the Gamay using partial carbonic maceration and the wine is only available by keg in the Ankida Ridge tasting room. However, we sipped a sample at the EWE session and it is light and lively, fresh fruit and abundant acidity. 

BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy: The Story of Norton

In 1873, the international wine community was stunned when a Missouri produced Norton wine produced by Poeschel & Scherer was declared the “Best Red of All Nations” at an International competition in Vienna, Austria. Then another medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1873. The popularity of Norton exploded - worldwide. At the time many European vineyards were just recovering from Phylloxera, and because of Norton’s relative immunity to disease and pests, this grape was designated as a possible savior to their ravaged vineyards. 

During the 2025 BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy I presented "The Story of Norton", a seminar that described the history of America's Grape - starting with the 1873 Best Red of All Nations award in Vienna, Austria. During the presentation, I poured four Norton wines, two from Missouri and the other from Virginia.  After the presentation, attendees poured samples from a number available Norton wines that had been opened during the previous night's Norton Wine Dinner for industry professionals.

The attendees started with a glass of the 2022 Stone Hill Cross J Norton. The winemaker at Stone Hill Winery, Nathan Held, asked that I relay that he feels this is a great representation of what a young Norton wine should taste. I mentioned that inexperienced winemakers can produce a Norton that is astringent and too acidic, whereas this wine exhibited  a spicy nose with tart plums and black cherries with subtle earthiness and spice. 

Back to our story.   

I discussed the preponderance of German settlers to the Midwest between 1827 and 1856 and how Hermann Missouri was created specifically for German immigrants.  And grape growing was a popular endeavor. By 1847 there were 28 vine growers in Hermann with one being Michael Poeschel started making wine using Catawba and Isabella - two Vitis labrusca grapes. Soon he partnered with another German, John Scherer, to form Poeschel & Scherer.

In the 1850s, under the leadership of George Hussmann, Norton was recommended and Hussmann distributed cuttings and by 1858 Princes Nursery (Flushing, New York) shipped the first documented instance of Norton vines to Hermann. Norton and Cynthiana were quickly adopted by Poeschel & Scherer. The winery was renamed Stone Hill Wine Co. Over time successful salesmen turned business partners William Herzog and George Stark helped grow the winery to become the second-largest winery in the country. Winning top honors in 8 World’s Expos between 1873 and 1915, the winery gained international prominence in the world of wine.   But there were stormy clouds on the horizon. 

The attendees then sampled the 2018 Stone Hill Winery Old Vine Reserve Norton. The grapes come from  a tiny 1/4 acre vineyard of Norton grapevines that were planted in 1863, during the Civil War. According to the winery, "once in a great while the shy bearing Ancient Vines produce enough grapes for a barrel or two of Norton Wine".  The wine was aged two years in French oak and shows more roundness plus hints of chocolate and more mature dark fruit. But still plenty of lively acidity. 

Back to our story.   

With World War I came anti-German sentiment, which hurt the traditionally German alcohol industry in Missouri, slowing growth. With the end of the war, the temperance movement started to dominate politics and eventually succeeded with Prohibition being ratified in 1919 and enacted in 1920. George Stark’s sons were forced to shutter the winery and order the vineyards to be destroyed. In 1923, the cellars were transformed into a mushroom farm which would continue under Bill and Mary Harrison until wine could once again find a home in their halls. 

During and after prohibition there was a strong home winemaking tradition in Missouri with Jim & Betty Held as active participants.  In 1965, they moved into the remnants of the old Stone Hill Wine Co. at the urging of the Harrisons in order to resuscitate the winery. He started with Catawba and Concord  but searched throughout the region to find existing Norton vines. He eventually found and purchased a plot of old civil war era - vines at a property owned by another home winemaker Rauch. This is the grapes used in the 2018 Stone Hill Winery Old Vine Reserve Norton.

The attendees then sampled the Bluemont Vineyard 2020 Norton Reserve. I wanted to show another younger Norton and stressed the noticeable difference with the Stone Hill Cross J Norton. It was livelier with more spices, bubbly sour cherries, and noticeable tannins. 

Back to our story. 

Norton or Vitis Aestivalis is a native North American grape officially discovered in 1823 by Dr. Daniel Norborne Norton (1794-1842), a physician from Richmond. After his first wife died during childbirth he turned to cultivating new grapes (27 in total) in a small plot of land known as Magnolia Farm - northwest of Richmond.  Even though Jefferson was never successful in finding a wine grape suitable to the Virginia climate, he may have inspired Dr. Norton's new endeavor. There are saved correspondence between Dr. Norton and Jefferson's chief grape grower. But fortune is odd. The Norton grape was not created intentionally, but resulted as a chance of nature through open pollination. Initially it was thought to be a natural cross between Pinot Meunier and a now extinct hybrid known as Bland. What is known for sure is that the male parent, was a wild vine of Vitis aestivalis.

Shortly after his discovery, Norton was quickly adopted by many growers as a hearty grape able to yield quality fruit for wine making. Based on sale documents, Norton is one of the oldest native grape varieties commercially used to make wine in North America. In fact, it was sold and used to make wines since 1830 as an inexpensive alternative to importing well-known European vinifera grapes, vines, and wines. As it spread westward it was still popular in Virginia up into the late 19th century - but like Missouri died out during prohibition. 

The final wines that the participants sipped were the Horton Vineyards 1995 and 1999 Horton Norton - library wines intended to demonstrate the age ability of Norton wine. The grapes inherent acidity helps elevate the finish even as the wine passed almost three decades in the bottle. In addition the wines show jammy - yet velvety layers - of dark fruit and chocolate. 

Post prohibition, the Virginia wine industry was slow to materialize and one of the pioneers was Dennis Horton. A native of Missouri, he started an office supply business in the metro D.C. region all the while planting a few vines at a small home vineyard in Madison County, Virginia in 1983.  In the late 1980s, Horton and a business partner acquired 55 acres for the beginning of Horton Vineyards. Rhone grape varieties were his favorite options but he was familiar with the Norton grape from growing up in Hermann and knowing the grape's Virginia roots.  He thus contacted Jon Held and obtained a shipment of Norton vines from Stone Hill Winery -- reintroducing the Norton grape to the Commonwealth with their inaugural vintage in 1992. The grape loves the Virginia climate.  And the Horton library wines represent wines made from these Stone Hill cuttings. Today there are over 20 wineries producing a Norton wine in Virginia and the have joined together to form the Norton Network in order to promote the grape. Thanks to Dennis Horton this is possible along with the world's largest grower of Norton - Chrysalis Vineyards.

Sipping the Best of DuCard Vineyards

Like several successful Virginia wineries, Ducard Vineyards opened 15 years ago during the ascendence of the Commonwealth's wine industry. Their estate is located in a beautiful valley on the  eastern edge of the Shenandoah National Park in the shadow of Old Rag Mountain and White Oak Canyon.  In the early days Rappahannock Cellars produced award winning wine from their grapes but eventual owner Scott Elliff decided to transition from grape grower to commercial winery. During that he made many wise decisions such as planting grapes suitable for the Virginia climate, starting small when building out the tasting room and production facility, and most importantly, hiring Julien Durantie as winemaker. 

The Ducard Norton was the first of their wine to reach our attention and they planted "America's Grape" based on a recommendation from Dennis Horton. The early versions were very acidic but Julien was able to nurture more fruit and less acidity moving to an open lyre vine training system. The results have been several consecutive years of award winning Norton wine.

They have also innovated and expanded their portfolio in terms of grape varieties and styles. Their red wines run through traditional Bordeaux grapes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot to several red blends.  One the paler side, the offer a couple Chardonnays, Viognier, Pinot Gris, as well as blends and a couple effervescent wines: the Pet Gnat and XOXO - both based on Viognier.  During my visit Scott curated a flight of four wines he thought best personified DuCard's current lineup.  

2022 TANA Chardonnay ($45)
This is a Burgundy style wine where the Chardonnay grapes were harvested from the Estate's TANA vineyard and aged five months in French oak. The fresh citrus and green apple fruit basks with great acidity and length. No cloying butter or oak character. 

2022 Cabernet Franc Vintner Reserve ($40)
The best fruit from this vintage was sourced from their Whetstone Run vineyard which helps produce layers of dark cherry fruit, some earthiness, and without any sense of methoxypyrazines (aka green pepper). Expect a long, easy finish.  

2021 Triskele ($70) 
This wine is only made during the best of years (five out of fifteen vintages) and apparently 2021 was one such year. The Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Tannat grapes come from their three vineyard sites. The wine shows floral and herbaceous notes then structured layers of dark fruit with approachable tannins.  An excellent wine. 

2021 XOXO Sparkling Viognier  ($50)
This Hugs and Kisses sparkling wine is made from 100% Viognier from the TANA vineyard where the wine is aged two years on its lees. This leads to noticeable yeast, but an elegant display of subtle stone fruit and a lasting finish. 

Effervescence Unleashed: Virginia Sparkling Red Wine

"The overall inspiration for the wine comes from the often asked question, "why not?" This is a popular question here at CV and has led to many different styles of wine we produce. " - Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards discussing their Buttorfleoge Norton Pet Nat.

Since the inception of the modern Virginia wine industry, both Horton Vineyards and Chrysalis Vineyards have been pioneers in its development. This can be seen by their introducing (or re-introducing) popular grape varieties such as Viognier, Petit Manseng, and Norton. In addition, they have been pioneers in creating different styles of wine - notably - sparkling red wine.

The Chrysalis Vineyards 2019 Buttorfleoge ($28) is a rarity. This is a Norton Pét-Nat, a new use for Virginia's native grape.  In 2023 there were 130 acres of Norton planted in Virginia (10th most abundant in the Commonwealth(1)). The grape is usually seen as a rich and juicy dry wine that needs a few years in the bottle to tame its astringent nature. Yet, its versatility can be seen in the other styles such as a port-styled wine, a semi-dry lighter offering, and in various blends. But this is the first sparkling I've experienced via Pétillant Naturel using 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine. Expect the traditional dark purple color of the Norton but there is an unexpected strong floral note followed by blackberry bubbles.

According to Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards, "using the methode ancestrale technique ‘rediscovered’ in the Loire in the 1990s, this 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine is produced using only the natural microflora found at Locksley Estate. This wine is fermented in tank until there is only a small amount of sugar left. At this point, the wine is bottled and laid down to let the fermentation finish. The result is a true, terroir-driven pétillant-naturel (or Pét Nat), and an exciting addition to the Norton lineup here at Chrysalis Vineyards". 

The Horton Vineyards NV Knots & Shuttles ($24.95) is a another red sparkling wine, this one made from 100% Tannat. Another rarity on many levels.  First, Tannat is the 14th most widely planted grape variety in the Commonwealth with only 78 acres planted. For perspective, Cabernet Franc is the most widely planted grape with 661 acres (1).  Second, Virginia Tannat is generally bottled in Bordeaux-styled blends or as a single varietal wine depending on its tannic structure and juiciness. But as a sparkling wine?  This has to be a first. The wine starts with a black fruit intensity but yields to more finesse once the effervescence starts its escape. 

(1) 2023 Virginia Wine 2023 Commercial Wine Grape Report

An Afternoon at Capstone Vineyards

Last week we spent an afternoon on the outskirts of the Shenandoah Valley escaping the heat and humidity and finally visited Capstone Vineyards. This fulfilled a desire from early March after meeting winemaker Theo Smith at the 2024 Virginia's Governor's Cup Gala. The winery was participating because of their Gold medal winning 2022 Vintner's Blend - a Bordeaux styled percentage of 42% Cabernet Franc, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot.

On this visit we started in the tasting room with a flight of the 2023 Sparkling C2, 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, 2023 Chardonnay, and 2016 Vintner's Blend. This last wine raised the property's viticulture status as it was made by Jim Law across Route 66 at Linden Vineyards. When Smith and his partners purchased the property there was an abundant supply of this blend (60% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Petit Verdot) which has aged masterfully in the bottle. The 2016 Vintner's Blend is still fresh with juicy dark fruit and noticeable tannins. The generous staff also allowed us to sample the 2022 Vintner's Blend which is normally off the tasting sheet because of its short supply. Definitely see the aging potential, but our group landed on the 2016 for drinking now. 

The three white wines were all worth noting but the Chardonnay held our fancy until Theo joined us with a glass of their 2023 Rousanne. He told us it was the last fruit picked that season and with smaller than usual berries - the fruit concentration was ideal. Over this glass, Theo also gave us his backstory from biochemistry at Franciscan University to witnessing his first harvest at an Ohio vineyard that peaked his interest that lead to a degree in Viticulture and Oenology at Brock University. He received excellent advice to start his career in a less well-known, but rising wine region which lead to a dozen years at Rappahannock Cellars. Then in late 2022, he and two friends purchased Capstone Vineyards. 

You will be seeing more upcoming content about Capstone Vineyards as we joined the wine club and will be visiting hopefully once a month. We plan on learning more about Theo's contract winemaking as well as his sacramental wine that isn't oxidized. 

Rain, Hail, and Sunshine at Grace Estate Winery

Lately, we having been avoiding traveling through Charlottesville on our passages to Waynesboro and Staunton and bailed at the airport to take back roads to Route 64 at Crozet. This has lead us to Oakencroft Farm & Winery and finally, Grace Estate Winery. The winery was established in 2013 and releases wine from grapes grown meticulously on the 50-acre Mount Juliet Vineyard. This estate vineyard is a small portion of the 450 acre Grace Estate the surrounds the mansion. 

Their wines are branded into three labels which honor the Grace family history. The Odo Collection is named after "Odo, the Count of Champagne and Aumale (later Albemarle) who lived from c. 1030-1115. He famously accompanied his brother-in-law, William the Conqueror during the Norman conquest of England".  Within the Alice Collection, all the wines are named Le Gras which reflects Odo's son William who was the first to take the name Le Gros, which over the centuries evolved to Le Gras, Gras,  and, eventually, to Grace. Finally, the Sheffield Collection highlights notable members of the Grace family tree throughout history.

For instance, the 2021 Aviator Petit Verdot is named after Cecil Stanley Grace (1880 – 22 December 1910) who was a pioneer aviator who went missing on a flight across the English Channel in 1910. The wine is spontaneously fermented using whatever native yeasts are hanging around the winery and aged 21 months in a large format oak vessel. The oak is restrained allowed for a full representation of the fruit.  

The 2017 Earl William Cabernet Franc provides similar fruit expression with more bright cherries and spice. The wine is named after the aforementioned William Le Gros (1115-1179) and is made from grapes grown on the south facing upper slopes of Mount Juliet. 

Our final wine was the 2022 Le Gras Cuve -- a blend of Chardonnay and Petit Manseng. Lots of floral, citrus, and peach notes that we originally thought would be ideal sipping on the deck, overlooking the estate, with our dogs at our feet.  However, an odd front rolled in -- and while the sun was still shining -- rain and then hail doused our outside outing.  But even though the tasting room's windows, the view of the estate and Shenandoah Mountains provide a scenic environment during our visit. 

There are two other pressing incentives to visit Grace Estate and the other wineries in Crozet, the Monticello AVA, and - in general - the Commonwealth of Virginia. Because the 2021 Aviator Petit Verdot was awarded a Gold Medal in the 2024 Governor's Cup Competition, Grace Estate is included in the Virginia Gold Medal Wine Trail.  The passport directs uses to the award winning wineries and provides discounts on tastings and bottle purchased. In addition, April 26th - May 3rd 2024 is Monticello Wine Week -- with numerous events scheduled within the Monticello AVA.  And, as always, the recommend theCompass Craft Beverage Finder. 

Update; This post was updated to reflect that the 2022 Le Gras Cuve is a Chardonnay - Petit Manseng blend and not 100& Vidal. I think my notes were soaked from the weather.