Tuesday, November 26, 2024

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Across the Domaine Bousquet Landscape

We love receiving wines from Domaine Bousquet, not only because of their quality and value, but also to learn more about regenerative farming. Their vineyards (first planted in 1997-98) are situated high above the clouds at 4,000 feet in Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. This dry environment definitely helped the winery achieve Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)™ status -- only the fourth wine estate (and the first outside the U.S.). 

"Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Organic Cabernet Franc 2021 ($20)

The first tenant of regenerative farming is No-Till Farming. This method offers a range of benefits that can improve soil health, increase crop yields, reduce environmental impacts, and save farmers money.  No-till farming educes soil erosion, preserves soil structure, increases soil organic matter, and reduces soil compaction, leading to better soil biological activity and improved soil health. Fields managed using no-till farming for multiple years have a higher water-holding capacity. And farmers benefit from reduces fuel and labor costs. 

Grapes from the GAIA brand have always been grown organically and the "Greek goddess of the earth, has been the Bousquet family’s inspiration since founding our winery 1997".  This 100% Cabernet Franc wine was aged in French oak between 8 and 10 months and shows luscious layers of dark fruit intertwined with earthy herbaceous notes.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($25)

The next tenant of regenerative farming is Biodiversity through at least four plant groups.  This process increases pollinator populations by providing diverse flower-rich habitats and reduced pesticide use support pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It enhances ecosystem services so that soil biota, decomposers, and predators work together to regulate pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical controls. Biodiversity improves habitat connectivity as regenerative farms with diverse habitats and corridors can support wider species distributions and population growth. And is sequesters carbon as healthy soils and diverse ecosystems help sequester carbon, mitigating climate change and its impacts on biodiversity.

The Gran Domaine Bousquet label features the best grapes from the “home” vineyard – the original vineyard planted by Jean Bousquet in the late 1990s.  The vines live in sandy soils and the grapes benefit from a dramatic diurnal temperature swing. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak lifting the fruit but allowing the layers of dark cherry and dried figs flavors to ride through the palate. The best food pairing: peppered beef jerky. 

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($18)

The third tenant of regenerative farming is planting Cover Crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture. Regenerative farming and cover crops are intertwined concepts that promote soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem services. Regenerative agriculture focuses on enhancing natural processes to improve soil fertility, structure, and overall ecosystem function. Cover crops play a vital role in this approach, serving as a bridge between cash crops and soil regeneration.'

A step up from the premium varietal line, these blends of Domaine Bousquet 4,000-foot elevation estate-grown grapes from plots with low yields offer more of everything – more body, more tannin in the reds, and more flavor. The wine includes 15% Malbec and was aged 10 months in French oak. This is a wine to savor - layers of dark cherry fruit, traces of minerality and spice and a long lifting finish from the acidity and approachable tannins. Works well with chili.

Domaine Bousquet Alavida Kosher USDA-Certified Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($18)

The fourth tenant of regenerative farming is incorporating Animals as a key component to achieve the regenerative goals. This includes grazing management emphasizing rotational grazing, where animals are moved to different pastures to mimic natural grazing patterns. This approach promotes soil health, increases biodiversity, and sequesters carbon.  Manure is used as a natural fertilizer, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and minimizing carbon emissions associated with their production and transportation. Animals like chickens, ducks, and geese can be used as natural pest managers, reducing the need for pesticides and promoting soil health. Holistic approach: Regenerative farming recognizes the interconnectedness of soil, plants, animals, and ecosystem services. By incorporating animals into the farming system, farmers can create a more resilient and diverse ecosystem.

The Alavida brand celebrates "to life!" which is the Spanish interpretation of the Hebrew toast l’chaim!. The brand also celebrates the diversity of Argentina and the multi-cultural family at Domaine Bousquet. In order for a wine to be designated Kosher ("fit or proper" ) handled throughout the production process by religious Jews under the guidance of a Rabbi. Thus the Domaine Bousquet team does not directly handle the production for this wine but based on the winery's unique style and technique. The winemaking team is in constant contact with the Rabbi and his team throughout the winemaking process. The grapes are hand harvested then fermented with selected yeast in stainless steel tanks. And according to the winery, "by not adding SO2, characteristics identified with the high-altitude, cool-climate terroir of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, are strengthened and enhanced. The purity of fruit, aroma, flavor, and freshness become yet more pronounced. Fruit has to be of superb quality, with great concentration, for the wine to remain stable without the presence of SO2. "

A juicy wine with layers of red fruit, distinct earthiness and minerality and lifting acidity.  Definitely has a different character than the previous wines without the aging process. We paired it with the Taza Wicked Dark Chocolate, but I can sea how others would prefer it with the Sea Salt & Almond or 70% Deliciously Dark

Domaine Bousquet Ameri Single Vineyard Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($36)

The fifth and final tenant of regenerative farming is instituting Labor Practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety. Regenerative farmers prioritize fair labor practices, ensuring decent working conditions, safe working environments, and equitable compensation for farmworkers. Regenerative agriculture values the dignity and well-being of farmers and farmworkers, recognizing their importance in maintaining healthy ecosystems and producing nutritious food. Regenerative farms strive to provide comfortable and safe working conditions, including adequate shade, ventilation, and access to clean water and sanitation facilities. Regenerative farmers avoid using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, reducing exposure risks for farmworkers and promoting a healthier environment. Regenerative agriculture often involves community-based approaches, fostering relationships between farmers, farmworkers, and local communities to promote social and environmental sustainability. Regenerative farmers invest in training and capacity-building programs for farmworkers, enhancing their skills and knowledge in sustainable agriculture practices. Regenerative practices like agroforestry, cover cropping, and crop rotation can reduce labor requirements, improving working conditions and reducing the risk of labor exploitation. Regenerative farmers prioritize continuous learning and improvement, adapting to changing environmental and social conditions while refining their labor practices to ensure long-term sustainability.

Today Domain Bousquet is managed by founder's Jean Bousquet's son-in-law and daughter: Labid al Ameri & Anne Bousquet. al Ameri had joined his father-in-law full time in 2005 helping to build the winery while Anne joined the company in 2008. "In 2009, the couple moved to Tupungato full-time, assuming full ownership in 2011". The Ameri label is obviously named after co-owner Labid al Ameri and the grapes come from a single vineyard, located at 4,125 feet, the highest of the estate. These grapes are the last to be harvested. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak and shows blackberries and dark cherries, more intense minerality with traces of herbaciousness. Expect another long finish with layers of fruit and tannins. 

Monday, November 18, 2024

Pomme and Perry Showcase: Single Varietal Ciders

We look at each cider as a story. When we are making our ciders from the year's harvest we take the apples we are given, the characters, and try to blend into a particular story. Some might be more easy going, others might be more edgy. Making single varietal ciders subtracts the whole story and leaves us focusing on the character, which helps us to get to know the stars of the story - APPLES. -- Nate Watters, Keepsake Cidery

Most ciders on the market are blends of various cider apples sculpted to incorporate various aspects of each apple. But have you ever wondered about the unique characteristics of an individual apple variety? Is it sharp (acidic), sweet, tannic as depicted through the Long Ashton Research Station (LARS) classification? 

By understanding the characteristics of each variety and adjusting production techniques accordingly, cider makers can craft complex and flavorful ciders that showcase the best of each apple. They must factor in the growing conditions of the apples as well as the yeast strains and fermentation temperatures. 

For instance, there are key differences in growing conditions required for optimal flavor development in various single varietal cider apple varieties. These include:

  • Climate: Cooler temperatures for sharp and full sharp varieties, moderate temperatures for traditional and modern varieties
  • Soil: Acidic soils for bittersharp apples, well-draining soils for dessert apples
  • Orchard style: Traditional cider apple varieties thrive in mature, high-density orchards with a mix of soil types and moderate climate conditions. 
  • Region: Cider apples grown in different regions, such as the Northeast, Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, and Northwest in the US, may require adjustments to growing conditions based on local climate and soil characteristics. 
  • Apple variety: Single varietal ciders made from heritage or traditional cider apple varieties may require specific growing conditions, such as cooler temperatures and higher acidity, to bring out their unique flavor characteristics. In contrast, ciders made from dessert apples may be more forgiving of varying growing conditions.

Snow Capped Cider must manage one set of these differing growing environments. The estate cidery is located at the bottom of The Grand Mesa -- the largest flat top mountain in the world. The orchards sit at elevation ranges between 6,130' - 7,000' and they trees are planted in fertile organic soils irrigated naturally by snow runoff.  This natural condition maintains nutrients -- and along with the high amounts of U.V. exposure due to the altitude -- creates a very high sugar concentration in all of their fruit.  Yet the conditions also encourage the development of tannins and acidity - balancing the sugars. Acidity from the diurnal temperatures and tannins from the fruit's ripeness. 

Different yeast strains and fermentation temperatures can also significantly impact the final flavor profile of single varietal ciders. Yeast strains can introduce various flavor compounds, while fermentation temperatures affect yeast growth, enzyme activity, and the production of volatile compounds. By understanding the characteristics of different yeast strains and fermentation temperatures, cidermakers can experiment and tailor their processes to achieve specific flavor profiles, ultimately creating unique and complex ciders.

Here are a few single varietal ciders that we have sampled recently - most through the BevFluence Pomme and Perry Showcase.

Hewe’s Crab was the most common fruit variety grown in eighteenth-century Virginia. It is thought to be a cross between the native American crabapple, Malus angustifolia, and the domesticated European apple. It produces a delicious cinnamon-flavored cider that is both sugary and pungent. Jefferson planted his entire north orchard exclusively with this variety and once wrote that crushing the juicy Hewe's Crab for cider was like "squeezing a wet sponge." Its small, round fruit, which ripens in September in Central Virginia, is dull red and streaked with green. (monticello.org)  

The Hewe's Crab apple is considered Bittersharp with the bitter implying high tannins (polyphenols) and the sharp implying high acidity (malic acid). This is based on the Long Ashton Research Station (LARS) classification. The tannins and acidity can provide this cider the capability to age.  We are holding back the James Creek Cider House Etude No 4 - Hewe's Crab to test that thesis, but for now this is a perfectly balanced cider in terms of acidity and tannins. The apples were sourced from Glaize Old Home Orchard (60%) and Kordick Family Farm (30%) - don't you love that type of information - and aged in French oak. This one is interesting in that there is a sense of the tropics - as in tropical fruit - in this delicious sparkling cider. 

Ashmead's Kernel is an old English russet apple that originated from a seed planted around 1700 by Dr. Thomas Ashmead in Gloucester, England. The apple is lumpy, misshapen, and rather small with green and golden-brown skin, and a distinct crisp, nutty snap.  Interestingly, Ashmead's Kernel is one of a few apple varieties from the Old World that succeeded in the New World.  "When the first settlers arrived in North America they brought with them tried and tested varieties from Europe, yet few adapted to the very different climates of North America and most of the early successful American apple varieties were chance seedlings that evolved in America.  However Ashmead's Kernel did thrive, and today holds a position of respect on both sides of the Atlantic..". -- Orange Pippen

The Snow Capped Cider 2020 Ashmead's Kernel is a nice representation of the apple as this Pet-Nat styled cider is made using apples grown in their high altitude Colorado orchards (6,130 feet), slowly fermented with natural yeast,  and bottled before fermentation sis complete. This cider has a strong red delicious fresh cider flavor with plenty of juicy acidity and mild tannings. 

Chestnut Crabapple is a larger crabapple introduced at the University of Minnesota in 1949 as a cold hardy pollinator. However, the apple is one of the oldest in the University of Minnesota apple breeding program and was likely "the product of the original seed collected in 1907/1908 that founded the program".  It is very disease resistant to the most common apple tree diseases such as apple scab, cedar apple rust, powdery mildew and fireblight.  It's known to be sweeter and less tart than the smaller crabapples and that was the case with the Keepsake Cidery Dry Cider Chestnut Crab Single Varietal. This Pet-Nat styled cider was naturally fermented from fruit grown at the Gilchrist Orchard. Despite the dryness there is distinct nutty - apple flavors that mimic sweetness - with a blossoming apple aroma and sizzling texture that lingers long into the glass.

The Baldwin apple was introduced commercially around 1784 and by 1850 it was the Northeast’s most popular apple, more widely grown in the United States than any other variety. But a harsh winter in 1934 wiped out most of the Baldwin apple orchards leading to a waning in its popularity. Too bad, because its well documented history is fascinating. It is named after Colonel Loammi Baldwin, a Revolutionary War veteran who crossed the Delaware with Washington and commanded the Woburn Regiment during the Battle of Concord and Lexington; a fellow of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences; and he is known as the Father of American Civil Engineering through his canal construction. Plus he was a fervent apple grower and second cousin to John Chapman ("Johnny Appleseed").  The apple is often medium to large with skin that is yellow, flushed orange, and striped red. The flavor is sweet with crisp acidity. The South Hill Cider Baldwin is made using the traditional method champenoise. It is bone dry with lingering citrus notes and a refreshingly effervescent finish. In fact, the amount of citrus is surprising coming from a cider. 

Dabinett is a British cider apple found by William Dabinett in the early 1900s growing as a wild seedling. It is a very reliable variety with high quality juice and is known for its strong aroma and distinctive flavor. The apples are small with red stripes often with red flush and makes a bittersweet cider which is mellow and full-bodied. "The tannins found in the flesh of these apples are the same substance found on the skin of wine grapes, which affects the flavor and acts as a stabilizer and natural preservative in both wine and cider" (Cider Scene)  The South Hill Cider Dabinett Keeved 2022 is made in the traditional French keeving method to achieve a wild-fermented and naturally semi-dry cider.  This process uses a slow 180 day fermentation after a cold maceration, and bottling before fully fermented to create a petillant naturel sparkling cider.  This is such a unique cider both in terms of the fermentation method and the apple varietal. There are layers of complex flavors flowing through the tannic body - some tropical, some earthy funk, some black tea - very complex.