Grape Spotlight: Virginia Blanc de Franc

Cabernet Franc is highly suitable for Virginia's climate because it ripens earlier than other red varieties, allowing it to avoid late-season rains and humidity that cause rot.  Its thicker skins and looser clusters provide natural disease resistance in these humid conditions, and its cold hardiness allows it to withstand winter temperatures better than varieties like Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Thus it is not surprising that it is the most widely planted grape in the Commonwealth with 610 acres planted. (See the Virginia Wine 2025 Commercial Wine Grape Report - pdf.)  

From what I recall, this Spring I tasted my very first Blanc de Franc wine at Capstone Vineyards and very soon afterwards tasted versions from the Shenandoah Valley's Cave Ridge Vineyard and our local favorite: Paradise Springs Winery. 

First, a basic primer. Red grapes contain nearly colorless juice so the dark color associated with red wines comes from extended skin contact during fermentation. However, Blanc de Franc is a white wine made entirely from red wine grapes - in this case - Cabernet Franc, produced by pressing the red grapes immediately so that the clear juice is separated from the skins before any color or tannin can be extracted. By eliminating the skin contact, winemakers obtain a pale, essentially white wine from a red grape variety. 

The production of Blanc de Franc relies on extremely gentle handling and pressing to avoid extracting pigment or harsh phenolics. Some producers use only free‑run juice, which flows from the grapes before any mechanical pressure is applied. Fermentation typically occurs in stainless steel to preserve freshness, and the wine may be fractioned or clarified without skin contact. 

During a recent excursion to Capstone Vineyards we were able to compare their 2025 Blanc de Franc ($44) with the Cave Ridge 2024 Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($27). And a week later we sampled the Paradise Springs Winery Blanc de Franc 2024 ($34) at their Rosé Day Celebration. We found that each wine was significantly different despite using very similar whole cluster pressing methods to avoid as much as possible introducing red pigment into the wine. 

For the Capstone, the pressed juice was a little pinker than they had wanted and they relied on the fermentation process where yeast can naturally leach remaining color from the juice. The finished wine is pale and provides more green apple and stone fruit characters with ample acidity.  The Cave Ridge version has a slightly darker appearance, more citrus notes, and similar acidity that is tempered by a little residual sugar. Finally, the Paradise Springs release is the most complex, on the one hand a strong citrus profile that also joins with a few tropic notes. Lots of depth which made for a very pleasant fröccs. Cheers.

Shenandoah Valley - Appalachian Highlands Road Trip Stop 2: Cave Ridge Vineyard

Recently I spent a couple days traveling the backroads of the Shenandoah Valley into the Appalachian Highlands visiting as many craft beverage establishments as possible. This endeavor included four wineries in the Shenandoah Valley, two breweries in the Appalachian Highlands, and a couple cider houses within both regions. Here's the story. 

The Shenandoah Valley is a 140–150 mile long and 25 miles wide geographic corridor located in western Virginia and the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. It is bounded to the east by the Blue Ridge Mountains and to the west by the Allegheny Mountains. Plus, the valley floor is bisected by Massanutten Mountain, a 50-mile ridge that splits the valley into sub-valleys and separates the north and south forks of the Shenandoah River. The region features karst topography with limestone bedrock that creates fertile soil, sinkholes, and extensive cave systems.

Grape growing in the Shenandoah Valley is shaped by the region’s position between the Allegheny Mountains and the Blue Ridge. These ranges create a rain shadow that results in lower annual precipitation compared to other parts of Virginia. Lower humidity reduces disease pressure, which can allow growers to extend the growing season when conditions permit. Vineyard elevations commonly range from roughly 900 to 1,500 feet, contributing to cooler nighttime temperatures. Soils in the area include limestone, shale, and loam, which drain efficiently and support varieties that benefit from moderate fertility and consistent water management. Like the rest of the Commonwealth, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc are popularly planted grapes, but the cooler climate is also suitable for Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino, Seyval Blanc, and late‑ripening vinifera varieties such as Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cave Ridge Vineyard is located only a short drive from our first stop at Kindred Pointe and was established in 2000 by Randy and Karen Phillips. The property sits on a slope with limestone‑influenced soils typical of the central Valley, and the vineyard has expanded over time to include a mix of vinifera and hybrid varieties chosen for their suitability to the region’s climate. The estate plantings include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Riesling, Viognier, Petit Verdot, and several other varieties that respond well to the Valley’s lower humidity, extended growing season, and diurnal temperature shifts. The winery produces a range of wines from these estate vineyards, supplemented at times by fruit from nearby growers within the Shenandoah Valley American Viticultural Area.

We took a different approach this time. Instead of a flight we sat down with a glass of their Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Riesling ($32).Why? Well, how can you refuse a glass of sparkling Riesling? Riesling has long been planted at Cave Ridge and the grape responds well to the Valley’s limestone‑rich soils and cooler nighttime temperatures. Riesling’s naturally high acidity makes it suitable for sparkling wine production, and the Blanc de Blanc designation indicates that it is made entirely from white grapes. The wine shows the grape’s typical combination of acidity and light fruit character works well in the sparkling format. 

On leaving, I purchased a trio of wines that seemed incredibly interesting. Albariño thrives in the Mid-Atlantic where it shows firmer structure and more pronounced stone‑fruit notes as opposed to Galicia. And I remember tasting their 2024 Albariño ($30) at a recent Governor's Cup event.  Looking forward to compare this Shenandoah version with others from Maryland and Loudoun County. Rkatsiteli. How could I pass on this historic Georgian grape variety that is slowly expanding in the U.S. beyond New York's Finger Lakes. I expect the 2025 Rkatsiteli ($26) to show the variety’s typical combination of citrus, apple, and light spicey notes. I recently opened a bottle of white Cabernet Franc from Capstone Vineyards and this style must be a new trend as Cave Ridge offers a 2024 Blanc de Cabernet Franc ($27). To produce a white Cabernet Franc, the grapes are whole cluster pressed -- quickly after harvest -- to prevent any red pigments in the juice.  Expecting a well structured wine with a lengthy finish.

Update: Well, we opened the 2025 Rkatsiteli and it is excellent. Light apple to pear on the nose followed by more concentrated pommeau character, subtle spices, and juicy acidity. Should have purchased more than one bottle. 

On the Road to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery

I am very embarrassed to admit that this was my first visit to Old House Vineyards, Distillery and Brewery. And Culpeper is only about an hour drive away. In any case, it was well worth the visit. Our group tasted through a flight of beer, wine, and had a very impressive lunch from their Green Ribbon Kitchen. Beef Bourguignon for me.

The beer flight consisted of the Big Iron Lager, Harvest Ale 2025, Sunburnt Farmer, and Pure and Simple Stout. The later was excellent, served on Nitro, and paired nicely with the stew.  The Harvest Ale 2025 was another standout brewed with 100% malted wheat and blended with Vidal Blanc pressings. Thus the vintage label. The Big Iron Lager is an American Pre-prohibition lager with more body than expected. I also wonder if a little rice makes it into the mash bill. Finally, the Sunburnt Farmer is an amber farmhouse house brewed with rye and wheat.  Expect a very distinct profile.

The wine flight wove us through their Vidal Blanc, Rosie's Rose, Petit Verdot, and Bacchanalia Reserve (Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot blend). The reds were a surprise - my favorites of the flight. Nicely done. The Vidal Blanc is finished off-dry but the prolific acidity brightens the sugar blending it seamlessly into the tropical and stone fruits.  

Sipping the Best of DuCard Vineyards

Like several successful Virginia wineries, Ducard Vineyards opened 15 years ago during the ascendence of the Commonwealth's wine industry. Their estate is located in a beautiful valley on the  eastern edge of the Shenandoah National Park in the shadow of Old Rag Mountain and White Oak Canyon.  In the early days Rappahannock Cellars produced award winning wine from their grapes but eventual owner Scott Elliff decided to transition from grape grower to commercial winery. During that he made many wise decisions such as planting grapes suitable for the Virginia climate, starting small when building out the tasting room and production facility, and most importantly, hiring Julien Durantie as winemaker. 

The Ducard Norton was the first of their wine to reach our attention and they planted "America's Grape" based on a recommendation from Dennis Horton. The early versions were very acidic but Julien was able to nurture more fruit and less acidity moving to an open lyre vine training system. The results have been several consecutive years of award winning Norton wine.

They have also innovated and expanded their portfolio in terms of grape varieties and styles. Their red wines run through traditional Bordeaux grapes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot to several red blends.  One the paler side, the offer a couple Chardonnays, Viognier, Pinot Gris, as well as blends and a couple effervescent wines: the Pet Gnat and XOXO - both based on Viognier.  During my visit Scott curated a flight of four wines he thought best personified DuCard's current lineup.  

2022 TANA Chardonnay ($45)
This is a Burgundy style wine where the Chardonnay grapes were harvested from the Estate's TANA vineyard and aged five months in French oak. The fresh citrus and green apple fruit basks with great acidity and length. No cloying butter or oak character. 

2022 Cabernet Franc Vintner Reserve ($40)
The best fruit from this vintage was sourced from their Whetstone Run vineyard which helps produce layers of dark cherry fruit, some earthiness, and without any sense of methoxypyrazines (aka green pepper). Expect a long, easy finish.  

2021 Triskele ($70) 
This wine is only made during the best of years (five out of fifteen vintages) and apparently 2021 was one such year. The Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Tannat grapes come from their three vineyard sites. The wine shows floral and herbaceous notes then structured layers of dark fruit with approachable tannins.  An excellent wine. 

2021 XOXO Sparkling Viognier  ($50)
This Hugs and Kisses sparkling wine is made from 100% Viognier from the TANA vineyard where the wine is aged two years on its lees. This leads to noticeable yeast, but an elegant display of subtle stone fruit and a lasting finish. 

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from Across the Domaine Bousquet Landscape

We love receiving wines from Domaine Bousquet, not only because of their quality and value, but also to learn more about regenerative farming. Their vineyards (first planted in 1997-98) are situated high above the clouds at 4,000 feet in Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. This dry environment definitely helped the winery achieve Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)™ status -- only the fourth wine estate (and the first outside the U.S.). 

"Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Organic Cabernet Franc 2021 ($20)

The first tenant of regenerative farming is No-Till Farming. This method offers a range of benefits that can improve soil health, increase crop yields, reduce environmental impacts, and save farmers money.  No-till farming educes soil erosion, preserves soil structure, increases soil organic matter, and reduces soil compaction, leading to better soil biological activity and improved soil health. Fields managed using no-till farming for multiple years have a higher water-holding capacity. And farmers benefit from reduces fuel and labor costs. 

Grapes from the GAIA brand have always been grown organically and the "Greek goddess of the earth, has been the Bousquet family’s inspiration since founding our winery 1997".  This 100% Cabernet Franc wine was aged in French oak between 8 and 10 months and shows luscious layers of dark fruit intertwined with earthy herbaceous notes.

Domaine Bousquet Gran Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($25)

The next tenant of regenerative farming is Biodiversity through at least four plant groups.  This process increases pollinator populations by providing diverse flower-rich habitats and reduced pesticide use support pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It enhances ecosystem services so that soil biota, decomposers, and predators work together to regulate pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical controls. Biodiversity improves habitat connectivity as regenerative farms with diverse habitats and corridors can support wider species distributions and population growth. And is sequesters carbon as healthy soils and diverse ecosystems help sequester carbon, mitigating climate change and its impacts on biodiversity.

The Gran Domaine Bousquet label features the best grapes from the “home” vineyard – the original vineyard planted by Jean Bousquet in the late 1990s.  The vines live in sandy soils and the grapes benefit from a dramatic diurnal temperature swing. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak lifting the fruit but allowing the layers of dark cherry and dried figs flavors to ride through the palate. The best food pairing: peppered beef jerky. 

Domaine Bousquet Reserve Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($18)

The third tenant of regenerative farming is planting Cover Crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture. Regenerative farming and cover crops are intertwined concepts that promote soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem services. Regenerative agriculture focuses on enhancing natural processes to improve soil fertility, structure, and overall ecosystem function. Cover crops play a vital role in this approach, serving as a bridge between cash crops and soil regeneration.'

A step up from the premium varietal line, these blends of Domaine Bousquet 4,000-foot elevation estate-grown grapes from plots with low yields offer more of everything – more body, more tannin in the reds, and more flavor. The wine includes 15% Malbec and was aged 10 months in French oak. This is a wine to savor - layers of dark cherry fruit, traces of minerality and spice and a long lifting finish from the acidity and approachable tannins. Works well with chili.

Domaine Bousquet Alavida Kosher USDA-Certified Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($18)

The fourth tenant of regenerative farming is incorporating Animals as a key component to achieve the regenerative goals. This includes grazing management emphasizing rotational grazing, where animals are moved to different pastures to mimic natural grazing patterns. This approach promotes soil health, increases biodiversity, and sequesters carbon.  Manure is used as a natural fertilizer, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and minimizing carbon emissions associated with their production and transportation. Animals like chickens, ducks, and geese can be used as natural pest managers, reducing the need for pesticides and promoting soil health. Holistic approach: Regenerative farming recognizes the interconnectedness of soil, plants, animals, and ecosystem services. By incorporating animals into the farming system, farmers can create a more resilient and diverse ecosystem.

The Alavida brand celebrates "to life!" which is the Spanish interpretation of the Hebrew toast l’chaim!. The brand also celebrates the diversity of Argentina and the multi-cultural family at Domaine Bousquet. In order for a wine to be designated Kosher ("fit or proper" ) handled throughout the production process by religious Jews under the guidance of a Rabbi. Thus the Domaine Bousquet team does not directly handle the production for this wine but based on the winery's unique style and technique. The winemaking team is in constant contact with the Rabbi and his team throughout the winemaking process. The grapes are hand harvested then fermented with selected yeast in stainless steel tanks. And according to the winery, "by not adding SO2, characteristics identified with the high-altitude, cool-climate terroir of Mendoza’s Uco Valley, are strengthened and enhanced. The purity of fruit, aroma, flavor, and freshness become yet more pronounced. Fruit has to be of superb quality, with great concentration, for the wine to remain stable without the presence of SO2. "

A juicy wine with layers of red fruit, distinct earthiness and minerality and lifting acidity.  Definitely has a different character than the previous wines without the aging process. We paired it with the Taza Wicked Dark Chocolate, but I can sea how others would prefer it with the Sea Salt & Almond or 70% Deliciously Dark. 

Domaine Bousquet Ameri Single Vineyard Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($36)

The fifth and final tenant of regenerative farming is instituting Labor Practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety. Regenerative farmers prioritize fair labor practices, ensuring decent working conditions, safe working environments, and equitable compensation for farmworkers. Regenerative agriculture values the dignity and well-being of farmers and farmworkers, recognizing their importance in maintaining healthy ecosystems and producing nutritious food. Regenerative farms strive to provide comfortable and safe working conditions, including adequate shade, ventilation, and access to clean water and sanitation facilities. Regenerative farmers avoid using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, reducing exposure risks for farmworkers and promoting a healthier environment. Regenerative agriculture often involves community-based approaches, fostering relationships between farmers, farmworkers, and local communities to promote social and environmental sustainability. Regenerative farmers invest in training and capacity-building programs for farmworkers, enhancing their skills and knowledge in sustainable agriculture practices. Regenerative practices like agroforestry, cover cropping, and crop rotation can reduce labor requirements, improving working conditions and reducing the risk of labor exploitation. Regenerative farmers prioritize continuous learning and improvement, adapting to changing environmental and social conditions while refining their labor practices to ensure long-term sustainability.

Today Domain Bousquet is managed by founder's Jean Bousquet's son-in-law and daughter: Labid al Ameri & Anne Bousquet. al Ameri had joined his father-in-law full time in 2005 helping to build the winery while Anne joined the company in 2008. "In 2009, the couple moved to Tupungato full-time, assuming full ownership in 2011". The Ameri label is obviously named after co-owner Labid al Ameri and the grapes come from a single vineyard, located at 4,125 feet, the highest of the estate. These grapes are the last to be harvested. The wine is aged 12 months in French oak and shows blackberries and dark cherries, more intense minerality with traces of herbaciousness. Expect another long finish with layers of fruit and tannins. 

Cabernet Franc & Blaufränkisch Stand Out at the Finger Lakes Roadshow

Last month I attended the The Finger Lakes Roadshow sponsored by the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance and whereas Riesling and more recently Gruner Veltliner are the more popular wines; I was most impressed with the red expressions. Across the board the Cabernet Franc wines were fresh, not overly extracted or abused by oak, and ready to drink. Blaufränkisch was another impressive expression.

Starting with this Austrian-Hungarian grape, Jordan Harris of Heron Hill Winery explained that Blaufränkisch is a natural to the Finger Lakes and with any experiment to alter picking by brix, maceration, and other factor, the grape responds with the very same outcome: "just leave me alone."  At the Roadshow, the winery's red expressions showcased their single vineyard selections from Ingle Vineyard -- located on Seneca Point, on the west side of Canandaigua Lake and is the largest vinifera vineyard on the lake.  The 2020 Ingle Vineyard Blaufränkisch is very Hungarian in nature (where it is known as Kékfrankos) with its sour cherry-black cherry profile, noticeable tannins, and spicy-acidic finish. The 2020 Ingle Vineyard Cabernet Franc is also delicious - fresh, with dark fruit and I touch of earthiness and spice.  And like all the Cabernet Franc wines tasted at the event, the herbaceousness and earthiness was very subtle - no ultra bell pepper methoxypyrazine in sight.

Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars farms over 119 acres on the eastern hillsides of Seneca Lake with Cabernet Franc a prevalent player. At the Roadshow the winery demonstrated the ageability of even unoaked Cab Franc through their T23 Unoaked Cabernet Franc.  The 2022 provides bright, juicy dark fruit - actually - layers upon layers of fruit. The 2017 has transformed into a more luscious profile, still fruit forward and lasting acidity, but more dried cherries.  

Sheldrake Point Winery's 60 acre estate is located on the western side of Cayuga Lake with the vineyards facing the lake and sloping almost to the water's edge. Their 2020 Cabernet Franc includes some Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It exudes crisp cherry fruit with layers of texture and soft tannins. Once again, fresh acidity throughout. Their 2023 Dry Rosé is a strawberry laced, 100% lightly pressed Cabernet Franc with added texture from the skin contact. Finally, the winery poured a light bodied and fresh 2022 Gamay Noir showing a little smoke and spice. 

Hosmer Winery also poured a Cab Franc based rosé in addition to a standard single varietal wine. Through the Patrician Verona Vineyard, they have been growing grapes for 50 years on the western shore of Cayuga Lake. Sadly they decided not to bring any of their Lemberger (the German form of Blaufränkisch) to the tasting, but shared with us their value-driven 2022 Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc. Bright acidity swirling with strawberries.  Their 2021 Cabernet Franc is 100% easy drinking with chewy tannins intermingled with the red fruit profile.

Seneca Lake's Lakewood Vineyards poured their 2021 Cabernet Franc which expressed bright fruit and acidity with hints of spiciness and minerality. This wine reflects the experience provided by seven 7 and three generations of grape-growing experience. 

Perhaps the favorite Cabernet Franc of the afternoon was poured by Wagner Vineyards. This winery is celebrating 45 years of winemaking and cultivating on the eastern slope of Seneca Lake and proudly showed their 2017 Estate Cabernet Franc. My notes reveal vibrant fruit, mature tannins, and no traces of methoxypyrazine.  A lovable wine. Wagner also poured their 2023 Dry Rosé of Cabernet Franc -- another in the line of fresh, berries, and juicy acidity.

Lastly, although not the subject of this post, I also want to mention that the pet-nat and sparkling wines were equally fantastic whether the primary grape was Riesling, Pinot Noir, or Chardonnay. Affordable priced as well. 

Grape Spotlight: Uruguay Wine 101

Last week I participated in an Uruguay Wine 101 seminar hosted by Uruguay Wine and INAVI (Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura) and presented by Martina Litta (Uruguay Wine - INAVI Foreign Trade Manager) and Joaquín Hidalgo (Wine columnist, La Nación - Argentina). The seminar itself was quite informative with a presentation on the country's wine regions and major wine grapes implemented using samples from nine producers, video greetings from each producer, and the participation of a couple winemakers. Definitely a worthy candidate for a case study in successful seminars. 

Ms. Litta started the session by describing Uruguay and several general facts about this country.

• 
  The name means “river of the painted birds” in the indigenous Guarani language.
• South America’s second smallest nation after Suriname with a similar surface area to Wisconsin.
• Population 3.4 million – a population close to that of Connecticut, but less than Brooklyn and Manhattan combined.
• Largely European heritage, primarily Spanish and Italian in origin.
• Cows outnumber humans in Uruguay 4 to 1 and Uruguayans consume more meat per capita than any other country in the world 

Mr. Hidalgo then discussed the Uruguay wine industry where the terroir is closer to Bordeaux than either Argentina or Chile and the mild and humid climate is affected by both river and ocean influencers. 

• With 14,804 acres/5,991 hectares under vine, the wine regions are slightly larger than Saint - Émilion in Bordeaux and slightly smaller than Alexander Valley in California.
• The only South American terroir whose climate is affected by the Atlantic Ocean.
• 
  180 wineries are currently operating in the country. Most are family-run, with two-thirds located in the Metropolitan Region.
• More than 50% of the grape harvest in Uruguay is done by hand
• The vineyards of Maldonado are planted above some of the oldest rocks on earth, the Río de La Plata craton, which is 2.5 billion years old.
• Tannat is the most widely planted variety in Uruguay at 3,892 acres/1,575 ha and it is not offended by humidity.
• In Uruguay, Tannat is also known as Harriague (Ha-ree-AH-gay), the surname of the first producer to plant it in the country.
• The VCP label stands for Wine of Preferential Quality and distinguishes fine wines from mass-market versions.

Mr. Hidalgo then discussed the six winemaking regions of Uruguay encompassing five distinct terroirs. The dominant winds in Uruguay come from the Atlantic, bringing with them cool, rainy conditions. Peak summertime temperatures in the south can reach 87° F/31° C, with rainfall averaging 39 inches/1,000 mm annually. Peak summertime temperatures in northern Uruguay can hit 106° F/41º C, with rainfall of up to 63 inches/1,600 mm annually. 

The Regions:  

• 
  Metropolitan: 12,076 acres/4,887 ha
  Includes departments of San José, Canelones, and Montevideo. Deep, clay soils also include strips of pink granite, making for a terroir well-suited to Tannat. 
• Oceanic: 1,053 acres/426 ha
  Includes two departments, Maldonado and Rocha with a varied topography which is the primary factor in distinguishing its wines. The Cuchilla Grande is the highest point in Uruguay, reaching a height of 1,600 feet/488 m above sea level, contributing a mix of granite and ballast to the soils. The climate is oceanic where white varieties dominate. 
  
• Southern Riverside: 722 acres / 292 ha
  Includes departments of Colonia, Río Negro, and Soriano. The influence of the Uruguay River can be seen in the sedimentary soils of Carmelo, while the San Juan River is distinguished by rockier soils. The region accounts for 5.2% of hectares under vine in Uruguay. Carmelo lies at the center of the southern shore. A dozen wineries are scattered throughout the area. Soils are distinguished by pockets of calcium carbonate deposits. Reds are the heart of the region.
• Northern Riverside: 408 acres/165 ha
• Center: 109 acres/44 ha
• North: 84 aces/34 ha
  The Rivera and Tacuarembó departments are planted in different geological formations, each rich in iron, comprising 84 acres/34 ha of vines, or 0.6% of the total. A continental climate with a significant thermal range. Experiences more hours of sunlight than any other region of Uruguay.

The Wines: 

Marichal Wines is a family-owned winery that was established in 1938 and is now in its third and fourth generation of family winemaking headed by winemakers Juan Andrés and Alejandro Marichal. The vineyards are located in the department of Canelones in the Metropolitan region. These vines benefit from warm weather, cool Atlantic breezes, and deep clay soil. The Marichal Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($14) is very aromatic (citrus); dry, with juicy lemon and melons, some vegetable character; and finishing with chewy tannins. 

Bracco Bosca is located in Atlantida in the Oceanic region and their 11-hectare vineyard is managed by fifth-generation grower Fabiana Bracco. These vines are located just eight kilometers from the ocean and this proximity is reflected in the surprising Bracco Bosca Ombú Moscatel 2022 ($16). This is a dry wine, with the expected floral and tropical aromatics but powered by salinity and creamy melons and pears. Excellent. 

In 1979 Familia Deicas took over the historic 18th-century estate and winery of Establecimiento Juanicó -- rejuvenated that brand and launched their own Familia Deicas brand in 2000. Here they focus on premium wines with low intervention winemaking from third-generation vigneron Santiago Deicas and utilize multiple vineyards in various regions in Uruguay. One of these vineyards is the Sierra de Mahoma, San José - located in western Montevideo. This vineyard is called the “sea of stones” because it looks like a sea bed with loam soils that are covered in gravel and almost vertical schist. The low fertility and limited water-storing capacity mean that these vineyards produce a very low yield of very concentrated grapes. This minerality is evident in the Familia Deicas Bodegones del Sur Vineyards Select Cabernet Franc 2020 ($20) which also includes a minty aroma and juicy herbaceous and red fruit flavors. 30% of the wine was aged in American and French oak barrels --providing greater roundness.

Gimenez Mendez is a family winery where the first vines were planted in 1950 and today is run by Marta Marta Méndez Parodi and her youngest son Mauro Giménez Méndez. The winery specializes in Tannat grown in Las Brujas, a sub-region in Canelones, and, in fact, currently releases seven different styles of Tannat. Summers are dry in Las Brujas with high daytime temperatures which shift to the colder side in the evenings from the cool coastal breezes. This enhances acidity that is abundant in the Giménez Méndez Alta Reserva Tannat 2020 ($18). Also expect ripe red fruit and a slight black pepper and tobacco nose, followed by plums and other black fruit, the aforementioned juicy acidity, and solid tannins.

Winemaking in the Toscanini family descends over 100 years into the past when the patriarch of the family emigrated from Italy and settled in the department of Canelones, producing his first wine in 1908.  Seven decades later (in 1979), Margot Toscanini de Montes and her brother acquired the current winery in Las Piedras, giving rise to Montes Toscanini. And in 1995, the responsibility of the winery descended to Enól. Leonardo Montes Toscanini, who along with other members of the fourth generation of the family, has run the winery to this day. The grapes for the Montes Toscanini Gran Tannat Premium 2019 ($59) are grown in Altos de La Ballena where the soils are predominantly clay-loam with some calcareous material and have a gentle slope. In addition, the proximity to the River Plate provides maritime and estuary influence with mild and steady temperatures throughout the year. This Gran Tannat is an impressive wine made using classical production methods. Expect more black pepper; creamy red fruit, great depth, and juicy and approachable tannins.

Pisano Wines also shares a century of winemaking tradition - this time in Progreso in Canelones - and is operated by three Pisano brothers: Gustavo, the winemaker; Eduardo, the agronomist; and Daniel, the export manager. The family traces their heritage to Italian and Basque immigrants - this later from the group of people who introduced Tannat to Uruguay. Again like Montes Toscanini, the Pisano wines benefit from the Río de la Plata (River Plate) - an estuary formed by the confluence of the Uruguay River and the Paraná River at Punta Gorda.  The Pisano Reserva de la Familia Tannat 2018 ($24) is a fresh and well-rounded wine with light and chewy sour cherries that alternate with darker fruit and soft tannins. 

Alto de la Ballena is a small winery operating in the Sierra de la Ballena located just 15 kilometers from the Atlantic coast. The small 8-hectare estate vineyard benefits from the oceanic air as well as excellent drainage from the steep, granite, and schist hillside mountain soils. The winery's birth is dated at the Millenium when  Paula and Alvaro quit their finance jobs after spending the previous two years searching for the ideal vineyard location. They found that in the Maldonado department in the Oceanic region.  They showed an interesting wine in the Alto de la Ballena Tannat – Viognier 2018 ($24) - an 85-15% blend. They manage both lots so that they can be harvested very close together allowing for co-fermentation. The Viognier adds a more intense aroma and softens the Tannat's tannins creating a lovely wine. Still structured with juice acidity, some herbs, and juice and chewy sour cherries. 

Bodega Bouza is an innovative winery and the very first to plant Albariño in Latin America to incorporate the family's Spanish roots from Galicia. They also farm several other winegrapes in five vineyards from the metropolitan areas of Montevideo and Canelones to the oceanic-influenced Maldonado region. These are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Tempranillo, and Tannat. The last three comprise their Bouza Monte Vide Eu (Tempranillo - Merlot - Tannat) 2019 ($67) - a full-bodied and structured wine providing a robust mouthfeel. This is structured at 50% Tannat, 30% Merlot, and 20% Tempranillo and the grapes are vinified and initially aged separately then aged together for a total of up to 16 months in French and American oak barrels. This is an exceptional Oceanic wine. 

Basta Spirit was founded in 2018 and produces spirits using a Tannat base. The Basta Spirit Vermut Flores Rosé ($16) contains 27 botanicals, including flowers such as hops, chamomile, rose, and elderberry. It is extremely aromatic, with loads of herbaceousness and forest spiciness - very gin-like. I plan on using this in a Negroni, and replacing the gin with mezcal, since this Vermut has suitable gin flavors. 

New Perspectives on Wines of Uruguay

Last week the Uruguay Wine Fall Tour landed in Washington DC where 16 producers poured several wines each at  La Cosecha (voted one of America's Top 50 Best Wine Retailers in 2021). The tour was sponsored by Uruguay Wine, the brand used by INAVI - Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura to promote Uruguayan wine around the world. During a previous tasting almost a decade ago, the emphasis was strictly on Tannat -- introduced into Uruguay in 1870 by Basque immigrants and at the time had represented one-third of all wine produced in that country.  And yes, there were several single-varietal Tannat wines and Tannat-based blends poured at this event. However, I was more impressed by the emergence of other grape varietals and stylistic changes. 

Uruguay resides in the same parallels as its neighbors Argentina & Chile, but also South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand. The soils are mostly clay, there's plenty of sunshine, and the vineyards are primarily situated near the Rios de la Plata (across from Buenos Aires) or near the Atlantic Ocean. Think cool coastal breezes and balanced and structured wines. There's a relatively long wine-making tradition in the county as immigrants from Spain, Italy, and Germany brought their wine-making traditions and wine grapes with them. 

The first new trend I noticed was the expansion of Albariño. The grape was introduced into Uruguay by the Bouza Winery incorporating the family's Spanish roots from Galicia. They also farm several other winegrapes in five vineyards from the metropolitan areas of Montevideo and Canelones to the oceanic-influenced Maldonado region. These are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Tempranillo, and Tannat. The last three comprise their Mount Vide Eu - a full-bodied and structured wine providing a robust mouthfeel. Yet, it was their tropical fruit and saline-driven Albariño 2022 that piqued my interest in discovering who else was producing wines from this grape variety.

Bodega Garzon was the next station I visited and they poured a coastal and racy Albariño Reserve 2022 that featured grapefruit and refreshing acids and minerality.  In addition, their Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 was very provencal - elegant with layers of strawberries. 

Another excellent example was provided by Familia Deicas and their Atlantico Sur Albariño.  As the name suggests, the grapes are grown no further than 30 kilometers from the coast where the cooler temperatures allow for slow ripening and fresh wine. This version has similar acidity and saline as the Bouza but shows more floral and citrus notes.  Familia Deicas has been very innovative throughout the years by producing the first Sauternes-style noble rot wine in Uruguay, the first ISO 9001 Quality Certification in South America, the first Tannat Liqueur in Uruguay, the first Tannat produced according to the Bordeaux Cru Garage techniques in Uruguay, and many others.

Winemaker Santiago Deicas has continued this innovation through his  Bizarra Extravaganza brand. This project began in 2014 when he started making craft beer and inspiration from the purity of that beverage triggered the concept of producing natural wines. Two of these wines were presented at the tasting: the Vino Natural Amphora and Vino Natural Orange. The former is made from 100% Tannat and aged two months in Amphora and 10 months in concrete tanks. The latter is composed of Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng and is aged nine months in used French oak and concrete tanks. Both are truly unique with the Amphora showing fruit-forward Tannat.

Another fruit-forward innovative wine was the Pizzorno Maceracion Carbonica Tannat 2022. The wine was fermented using carbonic maceration in concrete tanks where, in a carbon dioxide-rich environment, most of the juice is fermented while still inside the grape. The resulting wine is low in tannins and showcases the grape's fruit - in this case, rich raspberries and cherries. The 4th generation at Pizzorno Family Estates also poured a very elegant Pinot Noir Reserve 2020 and a sturdy Tannat Reserve 2020 with the grapes from all of these wines grown in the country's largest wine region: Canelones. 

Another new perspective occurred while visiting the table for Bodega Cerro Chapeu. This 10th-generation family started producing wine in Catalonia in 1792 and in Uruguay in 1930. They are located in the Cerro Chapeu of the Rivera wine region which is located in northern Uruguay - very close to the Brazilian border.  This continental region is "characterized by its vineyards on the sides of hills and slopes, around 220 meters high, and its deep red sand soils with very good drainage and the seasons are drier with longer sun hours. Ideal for late-maturing varieties like Trebbiano and Malvasia. These are the grapes that form the Castel Pujol Folklore Pet Nat. The grapes are fermented separately and right before complete fermentation, they are blended and bottled. I was not expecting a fun wine like this. They also poured a delicious still version of the Pet Nat, the Castel Pujol Folklore Blanco, with plenty of fruitiness and surprisingly body. Finally, they continued to stretch traditional winemaking with the Castel Pujol Folklore Tinto -- 80% Tannat co-pigmentation with 20% Petit Manseng first press skins. What a mouthfeel. 

A similar co-fermentation occurred with Alto de la Ballena and their 2018 Tannat - Viognier Reserve. This is an 85% - 15% co-fermented blend aged for nine months in American oak barrels. The Viognier softens the Tannat and provides a pleasant floral aroma. This 20-year-old winery is located in the southeast and seaside region of Maldonado and also produces a luscious Cabernet Franc Reserve - silky and juicy in nature

Perhaps the most delicious Cabernet Franc was provided by Bracco Basca and their 2021 Cabernet Franc. Layers of dark cherries, structured, and a long satisfying tail. The winery was founded in 2005 by Darwin Bracco and Mirtha Bosca "but its vineyards have been in the family for 5 generations. Originally from Piedmont, Italy, the family moved to Uruguay and established in Atlántida region to continue the wine tradition".  This winery is also releasing several innovative products such as the first dry Muscatel in Uruguay as well as a Merlot - Ugni Blanc Claret. Fun, fantastic wines. 

Looking forward to visiting all these wineries in person one day. Cheers.