Grape Spotlight: Islas Canarias DOP Listán Blanco and the Bodega El Lomo 4 Lías

Courtesy of vineyards.com

The Canary Islands archipelago is an interesting region for growing grapes as it is the most tropical of Europe's wine regions. Lying off the west coast of Morocco, the tropical climate is generally hot and humid but there are numerous micro-climates and topographical features that make wine production possible. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for the majority, it ranges from 1,600-3,300 feet above sea level, providing a string diurnal temperature change.  This ensures that freshness and acidity are maintained in the grapes.

Volcanic soils are also beneficial to grape growing. The soil imparts mineral and subtle, mineral notes to the otherwise largely aromatic wines.  And because of its isolation from the European mainland, phylloxera never reached the archipelago and imported rootstock was never needed. Thus Canarian wines are made from old and ungrafted vines. 

Wine is made on seven of the eight main islands, encompassing 11 Denominaciones de Origen Protegida (DOPs), the overall Islas Canarias DOP, five individual island DOPs, and five located on the largest island - Tenerife: Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Guimar, Valle de la Orotava and Ycoden-Daute-Isora.  In order, these encompass the southern coast, northeast coast, southeast coast, northwest, and western part of Tenerife.

Courtesy of Bodega El Lomo

Along with Malvasia, Listán Blanco is the most popular white wine grape. The name is a synonym for the popular Jerez sherry grape: Palomino. In Andalucia, the variety has a rather neutral flavor profile, with low acidity and potential alcohol, making it a natural for fortification in Sherry's particular winemaking style.  However, in the volcanic soils and high elevation of the Islas Canarias DOP, Listán Blanco achieves much more acidity from the diurnal temperatures and is usually harvested prematurely to give it a touch of freshness. In this instance, it shows light and subtle herbal (fennel), peach and dried fruit aromas which seem to enhance the mineral and saline character of the volcanic terroir.

Bodega El Lomo is located in Tenerife with multiple estates located in distinct microclimates on the island.  The estate vineyard ("Fray Luis")  is located at 1400 feet above the sea in a volcanic fault with the vines cultivated in terraces. "This farm, according to historical records, has been a vineyard for more than 300 years".  Their highest vineyard is "Chío" located at 3600 feet near the Chinyero volcano in the south of the island. And most of their vineyards are located in the northeast of Tenerife averaging 1600 feet. 

The 4 Lías Blanco Seco 2022 is a truly unique wine.  The Listán Blanco base is fermented and aged on its lees as well as the lees from three other wines produced that vintage year at the winery. The other lees derive from Malvasía, Albillo Criollo, and Forastera and come from a sheltered vineyard on the northeast side of Tenerife. The Listán Blanco comes from vineyards located over 2800 feet with the vines planted in deep volcanic soil. 

This is a fantastic complex wine with plenty of ripe stone fruit on the nose with layers of minerality and aggressive acidity. At Jaleo this wine was served with Papas Arrugas (miniature potatoes) and Croquetas de pollo (chicken fritters). Expect $15 or Euros if you can find it in your market.