Wine Country France: A Journey Through Three Iconic French Wine Regions

Last week I attended a Masterclass at the French Embassy titled Wine Country France: A Journey Through Three Iconic French Wine Regions conducted by wine educator Annette Schiller. Through nine wines, she navigated us through Bourgogne (Burgundy), Bordeaux, and the Rhone explaining wine production through history, major appellations, terroir, and current producers. 

Burgundy (Bourgogne): A grounded look at three villages (Saint‑Véran, Santenay, and Vosne‑Romanée) and the terroir that shapes them

Burgundy has a way of reminding wine drinkers that simplicity on paper can produce extraordinary nuance in the glass. Two grapes -- Chardonnay and Pinot Noir -- form the backbone of the region, yet the wines vary dramatically from village to village. The reason is terroir in its most literal sense: geology, slope, exposure, vine age, and the accumulated decisions of growers who know their parcels intimately. Limestone is the common thread and shapes Burgundy’s identity. It influences drainage, root depth, and ultimately the mineral tension in both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  Old vines matter. From century‑old Pinot Noir in Santenay to venerable parcels in Vosne‑Romanée, vine age contributes concentration and complexity without excess weight. Farming choices are increasingly transparent. Organic and sustainable practices were consistent across the producers presented. Burgundy’s future is being shaped by growers who see soil health as inseparable from wine quality. 

Saint‑Véran: Chardonnay with Clarity and Precision
Located in the southern Mâconnais, Saint‑Véran is often described as Burgundy’s gateway to purity‑driven Chardonnay. The wines are shaped by clay‑limestone soils, cooler elevations, and a long tradition of family‑run domaines. The 2024 Saint‑Véran from Domaine de Fussiacus (Domaines Paquet), highlighted the region’s strengths:

• 100% Chardonnay
• Clay‑limestone soils that emphasize minerality and freshness
• Organic farming and sustainable winemaking
• A domaine with roots dating back to 1955

Saint‑Véran Chardonnay tends to show clean orchard fruit, subtle florals, and a mineral line that reflects the limestone bedrock. It’s Burgundy without ornamentation -- direct, transparent, and quietly confident.

Santenay: Pinot Noir with Structure and Earth
At the southern end of the Côte de Beaune, Santenay is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors, yet it delivers some of the region’s most honest expressions of Pinot Noir. The wines are typically firmer, earthier, and more structured than those from villages farther north. The 2023 Santenay Rouge from Domaine Marc Colin et Fils offered a textbook profile:

• 100% Pinot Noir
• Old vines, including parcels approaching 100 years
• Iron‑rich limestone soils
• East‑south exposure
• Organic farming
• Aged in oak with 30% new barrels

These conditions produce Pinot Noir with red‑berry fruit, savory undertones, and a mineral edge. The iron‑rich soils often contribute a subtle ferrous note, while the exposure ensures ripeness without heaviness. Santenay remains a village where value and authenticity intersect.

Vosne‑Romanée: The Pinnacle of Pinot Noir Elegance
If Santenay is grounded and sturdy, Vosne‑Romanée is its counterpoint—perfumed, layered, and texturally refined. Located in the Côte de Nuits, Vosne‑Romanée sits among some of the most celebrated vineyards in the world. The 2021 Vosne‑Romanée "Dame Juliette" is from Bernard Rion, a domaine with roots stretching back to 1896. Key details included:

• Pinot Noir from three distinct climats
• Clay‑limestone soils
• 40+ year old vines
• Selective manual harvest and de‑stemming
• Spontaneous fermentation in concrete
• 15 months of ageing in Burgundy barrels (40% new)

Vosne‑Romanée wines are known for their aromatic lift—violet, spice, red and black cherry—and a silky texture that seems to defy the grape’s fragility. The combination of old vines, meticulous farming, and careful élevage reinforces why this village remains a benchmark for Pinot Noir worldwide.

The Essence of the Olive: Laconiko and Greece’s Enduring Landscape

Greek extra virgin olive oil is rooted in one of the world’s oldest olive‑growing cultures, stretching back to the Minoans, who cultivated olives on Crete more than 3,000 years ago. Over centuries, olive groves spread across the Peloponnese, the Aegean islands, and the rugged mainland, becoming a defining feature of both the landscape and the diet. Historical records from classical Athens to Byzantine monasteries show how central olive oil was to trade, ritual, and daily life. Today, Greece remains one of the largest producers of extra virgin olive oil, with many regions emphasizing small‑scale cultivation, hand harvesting, and traditional milling practices that preserve freshness and clarity of flavor. Greece’s olive varieties reflect its diverse geography.

• Koroneiki: The country’s most widespread cultivar, thriving in dry, windswept areas and producing a robust oil marked by green fruit, herbs, and a firm peppery finish.
• Tsounati: Common in western Crete, yielding a softer, rounder oil with notes of ripe olive and mild bitterness.
• Manaki: A gentler Peloponnese variety, smooth and lightly floral, often harvested early for a delicate but persistent profile.
• Lianolia: Favored in the Ionian islands, producing fragrant, grassy oils with moderate pungency.

These varieties, shaped by limestone soils, maritime breezes, and steep terraces, give Greek EVOO its recognizable balance of fruit, bitterness, and spice.

Producers often point to the combination of climate, terrain, and long‑standing know‑how. Many groves are dry‑farmed, which concentrates flavor and supports high polyphenol levels. The Mediterranean’s sharp seasonal contrasts—hot summers, cool winters—encourage slow ripening and dense aromatic compounds. Modern mills have helped standardize quality, but much of the work remains rooted in family‑run operations that prioritize early harvests and rapid extraction. The result is an oil that tends to be assertive yet clean, with a profile that pairs easily with vegetables, legumes, and grilled seafood.

Laconiko represents the modern face of Greek olive oil while staying grounded in long‑standing family traditions. Based near the coastal town of Gytheio in the Peloponnese, the family organically cultivates 5,000 Koroneiki varietal olive trees in groves that benefit from abundant sunlight, sandy soils, and steady sea breezes. The sandy soil filtrates impurities that may be present and assuring olives that are of extremely highest quality. Their approach centers on early harvesting, meticulous fruit selection, and rapid cold extraction—choices that consistently yield oils with high polyphenol levels and a vivid sensory profile. The oil remains refrigerated and is transported to the company's warehouse in Manassas, Virginia where it is climate controlled and bottled on demand. This attention to refrigeration maintains the shelf life and phenolic content of the oliva oil.

Laconiko operates a showroom at the Manassas location providing samples of their traditional extra virgin olive oil, flavored olive oil, flavored vinegars, and more. Educated in the United States, brothers Dino and Diamantis Pierrakos maintain their family's generational orchard in Greece as well as the retail and bottling operation in Virginia.

On a recent visit, Diamantis provided a masterclass on their extra virgin olive oil and well as the health benefits of olive oil based on research from the World Olive Center for Health (WOCH). The health benefits are described in our previous article, The Essence of the Olive: The Health Benefits of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and Laconiko attempts to maximize these phenolic compounds by harvesting during various stages of ripening. The earlier the ripening, the higher the polyphenols, but also the higher the bitterness. Harvesting the grapes later results in a smoother flavor but lower phenolic compounds. This situational harvesting produces a truly artisan olive oil as yields are suppressed from the industry averaged of 25% volume to 5-10%.

Laconiko offers three main extra virgin olive oil expressions and highlight the amount of Oleocanthal (anti‑inflammatory), Oleacein (antioxidant), and Hydroxytyrosol (antioxidant) in every bottle. The flagship Laconiko Estate EVOO is known for its bright green fruit, fresh herbs, and a clean peppery finish that reflects both the Koroneiki variety and the precision of their milling. Since it includes olives later in the harvest cycle it contains the lowest amount of polyphenols but is targeting towards consumers who use olive oil in meals on a daily basis. The olives for their Laconiko Olio Nuovo are harvested two weeks prior to those in the Estate EVOO and thus contains a higher phenolic value with a noticeable increase in bitterness and herbaceous flavors. Diamantis demonstrated a technique that makes this olive oil more palatable by adding it to citrus - which completely dampens the bitter finish. In addition, adding olive oil to a liquid enhances the body's ability to absorb the phenolic compounds.

Their final base product is the Laconiko ZOI High Phenolic Olive Oil made from the Kalamon olive variety. This olive oil is based on ancient traditions to harvest and process olives for their medicinal value. According to Laconiko, "for ZOI, Dino was in the grove in early October to see that the olives were gently picked, and, within hours, quickly rushed to the mill, which opened early in the season – just for us. The olives were then milled at a specific temperature for a short time in order to offer our cherished customers the best High Phenolic EVOO that we can provide. By nature of the careful process, high phenolic EVOOs offer a lower yield, which is the cause of its premium price – but the intensity of oleocanthal and its cousin, antioxidant, oleacein in ZOI – a little goes a long way – 1 to 2 tsp (5 – 10 ml) or 5 – 10 mg of oleocanthal + 1 – 5 mg of oleacein per serving." Diamantis also stressed that in order to obtain the health benefits, the EVOO must be consumed daily. Thus, small teaspoon doses of ZOI are sufficient for a daily health regimen.

I highly recommend a visit to their showroom or finding retail locations.  Even though based in the United States, their core identity remains tied to the Peloponnese and that region’s natural strengths: small groves, careful stewardship, and a focus on purity. Their work has earned international recognition, yet the operation retains the feel of a hands‑on, generational craft product.

Vineyard Mechanization Through Stone Tower Winery to the EWE

Alex Gamez, (Vineyard Manager, Stone Tower Winery) will focus on the persistent issue of soil erosion on steep terrain, detailing the practical steps taken to stabilize these slopes, including the use of a 1,200-lb. tandem disk harrow and aerial drone spraying. He will also touch on the adoption of laser bird deterrents and half-track tractors as part of a broader shift toward terrain-adapted vineyard management. - Session V06 | Vineyard Mechanization Update | Eastern Winery Exposition

Traditional tilling refers to the long-standing agricultural practice of mechanically agitating soil to prepare a seedbed, control weeds, and incorporate crop residues or fertilizers.  It typically involves primary tillage—such as ploughing with a mouldboard or chisel plow—to invert and loosen the soil to depths of 10–25 cm—followed by secondary tillage (e.g., disking, harrowing) to create a fine, smooth seedbed. This method is commonly known as conventional tillage, where less than 15% of crop residue remains on the soil surface after planting.  It is widely used in smallholder and commercial farming, especially where animal-drawn plows or tractors are available. The goal is to produce a weed-free, aerated, and well-structured seedbed that promotes rapid germination and root development. 

However, traditional tilling has significant drawbacks: it increases soil erosion, degrades soil structure, and accelerates organic matter loss.  Tillage erosion is a major form of soil degradation caused by conventional tilling practices, where mechanical implements move soil downslope. This erosion is even more pronounced on steep terrain and is a difficulty that Alex Gamez and Stone Tower Winery faced on one particularly plot where trenches that formed became more dangerous for traditional machinery and personnel. 

Stone Tower Winery farms 93 acres of vines, making it the largest estate vineyard in Virginia's Loudoun County. Managing this large estate is even more complex as the dozens of different grape varieties are planted across multiple terrains.  One of these being this steep seven acre plot will be the focus of his presentation in the V06 | Vineyard Mechanization Update session at the upcoming Eastern Winery Exposition.  

Alex will present the practical steps that Stone Tower used to stabilize this slope which including changing the machinery and relying on 3rd party aerial drone technology for fungicide and pesticide applications.  The powerful and stable half-track tractor navigates both slope trajectories providing safe usage for the team. It enables them to amend the soil more often than once a year and, along with the drone, helps minimize foot traffic on the steep slope.  Other challenges that he may mention are their plans to limit harm from the spotted lantern fly as well as the possibility of Pierce's Disease in the vineyard. 

Visitors to the winery will be impressed with the estate's rolling hills and the mountainous backdrop. Also impressive are two wines that winemaker James Phillips vinified from field blends. The first is the Sycolin Creek - a Rhone styled blend of 48% Viognier, 29% Roussanne, 21% Marsanne, 2% Grenache Blanc. Although the Viognier and Roussanne ripen very similarly, the Marsanne is later so the grapes are harvested when the Marsanne is a little under-ripe. The result is a very delicious and interesting wine where five months in French oak provide just enough texture without losing flavor and acidity. Similarly the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes for their Rosé (40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 36% Merlot) are a field blend harvested specifically for a direct press rosé styled wine. The Merlot was barrel fermented and provides fruitiness and texture to this refreshing wine.

The Essence of the Olive: The Health Benefits of Extra Virgin Olive Oil

The mission of the World Olive Center for Health (WOCΗ) is to certify olive oil with a health claim, train producers, and support targeted research on the health protecting and therapeutic properties of all olive products, with the ultimate target to increase the nutritional and economic value of olive oil.  -- WOCΗ

What Modern Research—and the World Olive Center for Health—Shows Us

Extra virgin olive oil has been part of human diets for thousands of years, but only in the last few decades have scientists begun to understand why it supports long‑term health so effectively. The World Olive Center for Health (WOCH), based in Athens, has played a central role in gathering, verifying, and communicating research on the biological activity of high‑phenolic extra virgin olive oil. Their work brings clarity to a topic that is often clouded by marketing language and inconsistent product quality. A sample PDF analysis is available for the Laconiko Olio Nuovo 2026.

The World Olive Center for Health is actively training producers to maximize the natural health benefits of their olive oil by focusing on practices that raise and preserve phenolic content. Their programs emphasize early‑harvest timing, careful fruit handling, and precise milling conditions that protect delicate bioactive compounds such as >oleocanthal and oleacein. WOCH also teaches producers how to monitor phenolic levels through accredited laboratory testing, helping them understand how cultivar choice, irrigation, extraction temperature, and storage conditions influence the final chemical profile. By combining scientific guidance with practical, field‑level training, the Center equips growers and millers to consistently produce high‑phenolic oils that meet both quality standards and documented health criteria. Here is a PDF Guide for the production of high phenolic olive oil with health protective properties.

This article walks through the major health benefits identified in WOCH‑supported studies, explains the compounds responsible for these effects, and offers a grounded view of how EVOO fits into a modern, balanced diet.

A Unique Profile of Bioactive Compounds

All extra virgin olive oils contain monounsaturated fats, but what sets high‑quality oils apart is their phenolic content—a group of natural compounds that act as antioxidants and anti‑inflammatory agents. WOCH focuses particularly on oils rich in:

• Oleocanthal – known for its ibuprofen‑like anti‑inflammatory activity
• Oleacein – a strong antioxidant linked to vascular protection
• Hydroxytyrosol – one of the most potent natural antioxidants identified
• Oleuropein aglycone – associated with cellular protection and metabolic support

These compounds vary widely among producers, cultivars, and harvest methods. WOCH’s testing and certification programs help identify oils with consistently high phenolic levels, which is important because many of the documented health benefits depend on these compounds being present in meaningful concentrations.

Anti‑Inflammatory Effects: A Foundation for Better Health

Chronic, low‑grade inflammation is a contributing factor in many modern diseases, including cardiovascular disease, metabolic disorders, and neurodegenerative conditions. Oleocanthal—the compound responsible for the peppery sensation in the throat—has been shown to reduce inflammatory markers in the body.

WOCH highlights research demonstrating that regular consumption of high‑phenolic EVOO can:

• Reduce inflammatory signaling
• Support the body’s natural repair processes
• Improve resilience against long‑term inflammatory stress

These effects are not dramatic or immediate; instead, they accumulate quietly over time, supporting overall health in a steady, measurable way.

Cardiovascular Protection: The Most Established Benefit

The strongest body of evidence relates to heart and vascular health. WOCH emphasizes several mechanisms through which EVOO supports cardiovascular function:

• Reduced Oxidation of LDL Cholesterol: Oxidized LDL is more harmful than LDL itself. EVOO’s polyphenols help prevent this oxidation, lowering one of the key risk factors for atherosclerosis.
• Improved Endothelial Function: The endothelium—the thin lining of blood vessels—responds positively to the antioxidant and anti‑inflammatory properties of EVOO. Better endothelial function supports healthier blood flow and blood pressure.
• Favorable Lipid Profiles: Replacing saturated fats with EVOO can improve HDL levels and reduce overall cardiovascular risk.

These findings align with decades of Mediterranean diet research, but WOCH’s work underscores that phenolic concentration matters. Oils with higher phenolic content show stronger protective effects.

Antioxidant Activity and Cellular Protection

Oxidative stress is a natural part of metabolism, but excessive oxidative stress contributes to aging and chronic disease. EVOO’s phenolic compounds help neutralize free radicals and protect cells from damage. WOCH‑highlighted research points to several benefits:

• Reduced DNA oxidation
• Slower cellular aging processes
• Enhanced resilience against environmental stressors

Hydroxytyrosol, in particular, has been studied for its ability to protect cells even at low concentrations.

Cognitive Health and Neuroprotection

Emerging research suggests that high‑phenolic EVOO may support brain health. WOCH has shared studies showing improvements in markers related to memory, learning, and oxidative stress in the brain. While EVOO is not a treatment for neurological disease, its regular use appears to:

• Support healthier brain aging
• Reduce oxidative stress in neural tissue
• Improve certain cognitive markers in clinical studies

This area of research is still developing, but the early findings are promising and consistent with the broader anti‑inflammatory and antioxidant profile of EVOO.

Metabolic Support and Blood Sugar Regulation

Several studies referenced by WOCH indicate that EVOO can support healthier metabolic function. Benefits include:

• Improved insulin sensitivity
• Better post‑meal blood sugar response
• Support for weight management when used in place of saturated fats

These effects stem from the combination of monounsaturated fats and phenolic compounds working together to support metabolic balance.

Why Daily Use Matters

One of WOCH’s central messages is that the benefits of EVOO come from consistent, daily consumption. Most studies showing measurable health effects involve one to two tablespoons per day as part of a balanced diet.  WOCH also emphasizes:

• Choosing oils tested for phenolic content
• Using EVOO as the primary household fat
• Favoring early‑harvest, cold‑extracted oils for higher phenolic levels

The goal is not to treat disease but to support long‑term health through a nutrient‑dense, antioxidant‑rich food. Extra virgin olive oil is not a miracle cure, but it is one of the most thoroughly studied and consistently beneficial foods available. The World Olive Center for Health has helped bring scientific clarity to its effects, especially the role of phenolic compounds in supporting cardiovascular, metabolic, and cognitive health.

Next article: Greece’s Enduring Landscape through the ultra premium olive oils from Laconiko.

Regenerative Viticulture at The Vineyards at Dodon

"With nature as our guide and learning from those who went before us, we seek to reduce our chemical and physical footprint while returning life and biology to the landscape. It starts by enhancing the biodiversity within and around the vineyard. Spontaneously growing, native and naturalized cover crops, compost, and livestock regenerate soil, add microbial diversity, and restore underground ecosystems." -- The Vineyards at Dodon

During the upcoming 2026 Eastern Winery Exposition, Tom Croghan, executive winemaker and co-owner of The Vineyards at Dodon, will provide two seminars on Regenerative Viticulture. In general, regenerative farming is a conservation‑driven approach to agriculture that focuses on rebuilding soil, restoring biodiversity, and strengthening the natural systems that make food production resilient. It emphasizes practices such as improving topsoil structure, enhancing the water cycle, and increasing on‑farm ecological diversity, all with the goal of creating healthier, more self‑sustaining landscapes. It prioritizes profitability through reduced input costs—such as fertilizer and pesticides—while improving long-term resilience and productivity.

The Dodon Farm

The Dodon farm has a long history from Colonial times to the present which is much too long and complex for this feature but is hinted at through the winery's wine labels. The farm "consists of 555 acres in its current configuration, comprising roughly 400 acres of woodland, 65 acres of pasture, 65 acres of cropland, 17 acres of planted vineyards, and 15 acres of 'farmstead' – houses, barns, sheds, roads, and other non-tillable areas. Since 2010, the vineyard and winery have occupied a section of about 43 acres in the northeastern corner of the property. This estate has more than 31,000 vines densely planted over 17 acres in three adjacent vineyards."

According to the winery's website, "It is a difficult site for agriculture, but it is perfect for a vineyard when coupled with scrupulously tended vines, a nurturing climate, and passionate people. The soils are infinitely complex, a mosaic of nearly a billion years of orogeny and erosion to the west, the rise and fall of oceans during the Miocene, and hundreds of years of human cultivation. Recognizing their distinctive characteristics, they have been designated 'Dodon-series' by the United States Department of Agriculture. They are naturally drained by slope and sandy texture, yet they also include a modest distribution of clay that provides a regular supply of water. At more than 3,000 feet to bedrock, their depth and decomposing shells provide texture and fragrance to the wine....

The climate at Dodon complements the soils and the varieties. The rainfall accelerates weathering of the soils, releasing minerals and creating the environment in which the vines grow. Moderate temperatures during the last weeks of September slow ripening, allowing full expression of aroma and balanced tannins that preserve flavor and extend aging in the bottle. "

The Essence of the Olive: Croatia's Adriatic Influence

Croatian olive oil has deep roots along the Adriatic coast, where olives have been cultivated since ancient Greek and Roman times. The country’s long, narrow coastline and its many islands create a patchwork of microclimates that suit olive trees particularly well. Dalmatia and Istria became early centers of production, and historical records show that olive oil was an important trade good in coastal towns from the Middle Ages onward. In the past few decades, Croatia has seen a renewed focus on quality, with small and mid‑sized producers investing in modern mills and careful harvesting practices. This shift has helped Croatian oils gain recognition for their clarity of flavor and strong sense of place.

Croatia’s olive varieties reflect its regional diversity. Oblica, the most widespread Dalmatian variety, produces a balanced oil with gentle bitterness and notes of fresh herbs. In Istria, Buža and Istarska Bjelica are common; Buža tends to yield a softer, fruit‑forward oil, while Bjelica is known for its peppery finish and higher polyphenol content. Other local varieties such as Lastovka, Levantinka, and Drobnica contribute to blends that highlight the character of specific islands or coastal areas. These cultivars, shaped by rocky soils and maritime winds, give Croatian olive oil its distinctive profile.

Why dip into Croatian EVOO? According to Selo®, a grower and producer on the Adriatic near Zadar.

 "Croatian extra virgin olive oil is unique due to the combination of climate, soil, and expertise of the local producers. The olive trees are grown on the sunny hillsides of the Adriatic coast, which provides an ideal environment for the olives to ripen and develop their flavor. The Adriatic region’s higher-than-average rainfall contributes to the oil's distinctive profile, with Croatian oils characterized by a high mean oleic fatty acid content (a monounsaturated fat, MUFA) averaging 70.4%, and a high palmitic fatty acid content (a saturated fat) averaging 13.43%. Additionally, the oil contains a medium level of linoleic fatty acid (a polyunsaturated fat, PUFA), averaging 11.22%, which is lower than oils from drier regions like Spain, Greece, and Italy, where linoleic acid levels are often higher, sometimes exceeding 15%. These fatty acid profiles, influenced by Croatia's unique climate, contribute to the oil's balance of flavor and health benefits. Croatian producers also use traditional methods of harvesting and pressing the olives, which helps to preserve the quality and taste of the oil."

Another producer, Broč stands out for its focus on careful cultivation and small‑batch milling. Based in Dalmatia, more specifically, the northern side of the island of Brač, the Šantić family works primarily with Oblica and their groves include 1200 old olive trees planted by their grandfathers. They draw on the region’s long tradition of olive growing while applying modern sustainability and extraction techniques. Starting in 2011, they introduced sheep to enhance soil health, fertilization, and vegetation management.   Their oils tend to emphasize freshness and well‑defined flavors.. Broč’s approach illustrates how Croatian olive oil continues to evolve: rooted in history, shaped by local varieties, and guided by a commitment to thoughtful, quality‑driven production.

Grape Spotlight: Peña Garnacha and the Calatayud DO

Calatayud is a high‑altitude appellation in Aragón in northeastern Spain, set among rugged hills and river valleys shaped by the Jalón and Jiloca rivers. Vineyards here sit between 650 and 900 meters (2,100–3,000 feet), making it one of Spain’s highest red‑wine regions. The climate is continental—hot, dry summers; cold winters; and wide day‑night temperature swings that help preserve acidity. Much of the terrain is a patchwork of slate, schist, and iron‑rich clay, soils that stress the vines just enough to concentrate flavor. Although winegrowing in the area dates back to Roman times, Calatayud’s modern revival has centered on reclaiming old bush‑trained vineyards and spotlighting Garnacha as the region’s signature grape.

Garnacha thrives in this environment. The grape ripens late and handles heat and drought well, but in Calatayud the altitude adds freshness and structure. Many of the vines are 40–100 years old, low‑yielding plants with deep roots and naturally small clusters. Wines from these vineyards tend to be deeply colored, with red and black fruit, herbal notes, and a firm mineral line from the stony soils. The combination of elevation and old vines gives Garnacha from Calatayud a balance that’s harder to achieve in warmer, lower‑lying areas.

Peña -- crafted by Master of Wine Norrel Robertson -- is one of the labels that captures this style cleanly. The wine is sourced from older bush vines planted on rocky slopes, where the soils are thin and the yields modest. In the glass, Peña Garnacha (aka "Garnacha Club") is medium‑bodied with ripe red fruit—cherry, raspberry, and a touch of plum—supported by subtle spice and a faint earthiness. The acidity is bright, a hallmark of the region’s elevation, and the tannins are gentle but present. It’s a straightforward, honest expression of Calatayud: fruit‑driven, lifted, and shaped by the landscape rather than heavy winemaking.

The Essence of the Olive: The Art of Tasting Olive Oil

 🫒 For many travelers, tasting olive oil for the first time can feel as revelatory as their first guided wine tasting — an awakening of the senses. Behind that familiar drizzle of golden liquid lies a spectrum of aromas, textures, and flavors as nuanced as any fine beverage.

For beverage professionals, olive oil tasting offers a familiar framework: assessing balance, structure, and complexity through aroma and palate. For travelers, it’s an invitation to experience a region’s essence — its soil, sun, and culture — in a single sip.

The Professional Approach

Professional tasters, or panelists, follow a standardized sensory method defined by the International Olive Council (IOC). But even outside the lab, you can learn to taste like a pro by following a few simple steps.

1. Choose the Right Glass

Olive oil is best tasted in a small, tulip-shaped glass, often cobalt blue to mask its color (since hue doesn’t indicate quality). The goal is to focus on aroma and taste, not appearance. Warm the glass slightly with your hand to release the volatile compounds that define the oil’s character.

2. Inhale: Discover the Aromas

Swirl gently, then inhale deeply. High-quality extra virgin olive oil should evoke freshness — think green grass, herbs, artichoke, tomato vine, or ripe fruit.

 Each cultivar and region has its own aromatic signature:

• Tuscany – green almond, chicory, and peppery herbs
• Andalusia – tomato leaf, green apple, and olive blossom
• Crete – citrus, wild herbs, and artichoke
• California – sweet butter, green banana, or tropical fruit notes

Defects such as rancid, musty, or winey aromas indicate poor handling or oxidation — the equivalent of a corked wine or a flawed spirit.

3. Taste: Analyze the Structure

Take a small sip and let the oil coat your tongue. Professional tasters use a strippaggio technique — a quick slurp that draws air into the mouth, releasing aromas through the nose.

A well-made olive oil balances fruitiness, bitterness, and pungency:

• Fruitiness reflects aroma intensity — the personality of the olive itself.
• Bitterness (felt on the sides of the tongue) indicates early-harvest freshness.
• Pungency (a peppery bite at the back of the throat) comes from healthy polyphenols — the antioxidants prized for flavor and nutrition.

The harmony among these elements defines quality, much like acidity, tannin, and alcohol balance a fine wine.

4. Evaluate the Finish

After swallowing, notice the oil’s persistence and evolution. Does it leave a clean, grassy freshness or a lingering heat? The finish reveals both craftsmanship and freshness — an essential factor for sommeliers and buyers alike.

The Essence of the Olive: Spain's Great Match

For The Essence of the Olive series, it's time to dip into Spanish olive oil. A couple years ago I attended the Spain's Great Match -- a celebration of Spanish wine, spirits, and gastronomy. This event included a deep dive into Spanish Extra Virgin Olive Oil through a trio of producers which included a brief history lesson. 

Spanish olive oil has long been one of the quiet cornerstones of Mediterranean agriculture, shaped by geography, climate, and centuries of cultivation. Olive trees arrived on the Iberian Peninsula through Phoenician and Greek traders, and the Romans later expanded groves across what is now Andalusia, Extremadura, and Catalonia. Over time, Spain’s varied landscapes—ranging from the dry plains of La Mancha to the coastal hills of Tarragona—allowed different olive varieties to take root, each contributing to the country’s diverse oil‑making traditions. Today, Spain is the world’s largest producer of olive oil, but its identity is built less on volume and more on the regional character that defines each harvest.

The country’s olive varieties are central to this diversity. Picual, the most widely planted, is known for its robustness, high polyphenol content, and a flavor profile that leans toward green tomato and fresh herbs. Arbequina, common in Catalonia and Aragón, produces a softer, fruitier oil with notes of almond and ripe apple. Hojiblanca, grown mainly in Andalusia, offers a balanced oil with a gentle bitterness and a hint of sweetness. Cornicabra, native to central Spain, yields an oil with a distinctive peppery finish. Together, these cultivars form the backbone of Spanish olive oil production, each suited to different culinary uses and regional preferences.

Within this broad landscape, some producers focus on preserving ancient agricultural heritage. Aceite Oleomile is one such example, working with protected millennial olive trees of the Farga variety—trees estimated to be between 500 and 2000 years old. These groves, primarily found in the Maestrazgo region of eastern Spain, represent a living link to early Mediterranean cultivation. The oil produced from Farga olives is typically delicate yet complex, with subtle fruit notes and a refined finish that reflects the slow, steady growth of trees that have witnessed centuries of human history. Oleomile’s work highlights not only the cultural value of these ancient trees but also the importance of maintaining traditional landscapes in a modern agricultural economy.

Verde Esmeralda is a Spanish producer known for crafting premium extra‑virgin olive oils with a strong sense of regional identity and careful attention to detail. The company began in the province of Jaén, the heartland of Spanish olive cultivation, where generations of growers have shaped the landscape around Picual and other traditional varieties. Verde Esmeralda built its reputation by combining this heritage with a modern, design‑driven approach to presentation and small‑batch production. Their oils are primarily made from Picual olives, celebrated for their intensity, high antioxidant content, and characteristic notes of tomato leaf and green fruit. In some limited editions, they also work with Royal olives, a native variety of Jaén that produces a softer, more aromatic oil with floral undertones. Together, these cultivars allow Verde Esmeralda to offer oils that reflect both the strength of Andalusian tradition and the refinement of contemporary artisanal milling.

Pago de Valdecuevas is a family‑run producer based in the Montes Torozos area of Castilla y León, a region where olive cultivation has been revived after centuries of decline due to climate and historical shifts in agriculture. The project began when the Martín family decided to restore traditional groves and invest in a modern mill, combining the area’s long‑standing connection to the land with contemporary extraction techniques. Their oils are primarily made from Arbequina olives, a variety well suited to the cooler inland climate and known for producing smooth, aromatic oils with notes of green fruit and almond. In smaller quantities, they also work with Picual, which adds structure and a more robust, peppery character. Together, these varieties allow Pago de Valdecuevas to offer balanced, high‑quality extra‑virgin olive oils that reflect both the terroir of northern Spain and the family’s commitment to careful, sustainable production.

Spanish olive oil continues to evolve, balancing innovation with respect for its deep roots. Whether through large‑scale cooperatives, small family mills, or specialized producers working with ancient trees, the country’s oils reflect a long tradition shaped by climate, culture, and careful stewardship of the land.

Maryland's Best Expo 2026

Earlier this month I attended the Maryland's Best Expo in Annapolis which is a program from the Maryland Department of Agriculture to connect farmers, watermen, and other businesses to consumers. 

I was mostly attracted to the event because of the participating distilleries and wineries starting with Oversea Distillery in Columbia and their Baijiu and whiskies.  Then there was Pathfinder Farm Distillery and their red corn moonshine; rum galore from St. Michaels Maryland and Lyon Rum;  sugar based moonshine from our friends at Rosie Cheeks and finally canned cocktails and craft spirits from Frederick’s Tenth Ward.

I specifically wanted to interact with Dodon Vineyards to learn more about their regenerative farming and expect much content and a site visit early next month. I was delighted to see the German inspired wine from Penn Oaks Winery and later the classic red wines from Black Ankle Vineyards. Mully’s Brewery represented Maryland craft brewers showcasing their unique expressions from southern Maryland.

Then there were oysters - should pair with the Dodon Sauvignon Blanc or could have previewed the Department of Agriculture’s beer and oyster program.  There was plenty of dairy like Chesapeake Gold Farm & South Mountain Creamery.  Mushrooms, pies, really delicious pies, lots of honey and a reminder for the Guinness Open Gate Brewery Honey Ale coming out in March.  More produce, My Dad’s Chips, and Rancher Shane’s Beef Jerky.

Baijiu - China’s Traditional Spirit - Through Maryland's Oversea Distillery

This month we attended the Maryland's Best Expo in Annapolis which is a program from the Maryland Department of Agriculture to connect farmers, watermen, and other businesses to consumers. Columbia's Oversea Distillery poured at the event and Distiller Bret Kimbrough introduced me to their fascinating portfolio that includes gin, rum, single malt whisky, bourbon, and baijiu. Even though Baijiu is one of the world’s most widely consumed spirits, I am relatively unfamiliar with the spirit and Bret related its long history, regional diversity, and distinctive production methods.

Baijiu is a distilled spirit traditionally made from grains—most commonly sorghum, though wheat, rice, corn, and barley also appear depending on the region. It is typically bottled at a high proof and is known for its aromatic intensity, which varies widely across styles.

Baijiu’s origins trace back more than a thousand years. Early Chinese distillation techniques developed during the Song and Yuan dynasties, but the spirit took on its recognizable modern form during the Ming and Qing periods. Over time, regional practices solidified into distinct styles, each shaped by local climate, available grains, and fermentation traditions. By the 20th century, baijiu had become deeply embedded in social and ceremonial life across China. It remains a central part of banquets, business gatherings, and holiday celebrations.

Baijiu production relies on solid‑state fermentation, a method that uses a starter culture called qu. Qu is a mixture of grains inoculated with naturally occurring yeasts, molds, and bacteria. Producers add qu to steamed grains and allow fermentation to occur in pits, jars, or stone vessels depending on the regional style. After fermentation, the mash is distilled—often multiple times—and the resulting spirit is aged and blended. Aging vessels range from clay jars to stainless steel tanks, and blending is considered a core skill in shaping the final flavor.

The primary Chinese Baijiu offered at Oversea Distillery is produced by the Wangdao Distillery Co. located in the city of Ordos in North China's Inner Mongolia autonomous region and then bottled in Columbia. The spirit is crafted using a mash bill of sorghum, barley, and pea and then aged in pottery jars. Oversea also offers a barrel aged version of this baijiu - the Oversea 6 Years Aged Baijiu - which is aged for over 6 years in China, then finished for one additional year in our Oversea used whiskey barrels in Maryland. Of the two I preferred the fresh, clean, and floral character of the original Chinese Baijiu that also shows some melon and bitter herbs.

Oversea Distillery includes Baijiu in several cocktail recipes such as the Baijiu Cosmo (Vodka, Baijiu, Triple Sec, Lime, Cranberry), Baijiu Mango Margarita (Baijiu, Mango, Triple Sec, Lime), and the Genghis Khan Mule (Baijiu, Vodka, Lime, Ginger Beer). May I offer a variation of the Genghis Khan as a Dark n' Stormy (Baijiu, Rum, Lime, Ginger Beer). Cheers and happy sipping.

Riley's Cidery Long Lost Apples

Just as Thomas Volney Munson devoted a great deal of his life to collecting and documenting  American native grape varieties, John and Josephine Riley travelled throughout the world collecting and documenting hundreds of apple trees. Over 30 years ago they planted an orchard on the secluded Bowen Island (British Columbia) to cultivate these trees and today the orchard consists of about 1,000 different apple varieties. Most of these are from North America but there are plenty that originated from Europe to Central Asia.

Five years ago Christine Hardie and Rob Purdy asked the Riley's for help in establishing Riley's Cidery and eventually took over the living tree museum. The trees are listed in a binder located in the tasting room and the 2023 Long Lost Apples is composed of the juice from all the apples harvested from the orchard. This is a time consuming project because the apple ripen at different times and some trees only produce fruit every other year. Thus approximately 500 apple varieties went into this cider that combines tartness with a nice tannic body. Fresh acidity livens the finish. 

The Essence of the Olive: Xylella fastidiosa and Olive Quick Decline Syndrome (OQDS)

Across the Mediterranean, Xylella fastidiosa has become one of the most destructive plant pathogens in modern European agricultural history, reshaping entire landscapes and threatening a cultural legacy built on thousands of years of olive cultivation. What began as an isolated detection in southern Italy has evolved into a regional crisis, with the bacterium spreading through parts of Spain, France, and beyond. Its impact is profound: ancient groves are dying, rural economies are destabilizing, and the ecological balance of traditional olive‑growing regions is under unprecedented strain. The most widely supported hypothesis is that Xylella fastidiosa entered Italy on an imported coffee plant from Costa Rica sometime in 2008.

At the heart of the devastation is the way Xylella fastidiosa attacks the olive tree. The bacterium colonizes the xylem—the vessels responsible for transporting water and nutrients—gradually clogging them until the tree can no longer sustain itself. The result is Olive Quick Decline Syndrome (OQDS), a condition marked by leaf scorch, branch dieback, and the rapid collapse of the entire canopy. Once symptoms appear, the decline is often irreversible. The disease spreads primarily through sap‑feeding insects, especially the meadow spittlebug, which thrives in Mediterranean climates and can move easily between wild vegetation and cultivated groves. 

The outbreak in Puglia, Italy, remains the most dramatic example of the pathogen’s destructive potential. Since its detection in 2013, millions of trees—some more than a thousand years old—have died. Entire landscapes once defined by silvery olive canopies now stand barren, their skeletal remains a stark reminder of how quickly the disease can transform a region. The emotional toll on farming families, many of whom have tended the same groves for generations, is as significant as the economic loss. Olive oil production in affected zones has plummeted, and the region’s iconic agrarian identity has been deeply shaken.

Spain, the world’s largest olive oil producer, has also faced serious challenges. The Balearic Islands and parts of mainland Spain have recorded multiple subspecies of Xylella, some of which infect not only olives but also almonds, grapes, and ornamental plants. The diversity of host species makes containment especially difficult. Unlike Puglia’s relatively concentrated outbreak, Spain’s cases are more dispersed, complicating eradication efforts and raising concerns about long‑term persistence.

Governments and researchers have mobilized aggressively, though progress is slow. Traditional farming practices—such as maintaining grassy understory vegetation—can inadvertently support spittlebug breeding, forcing growers to rethink long‑standing land‑management habits. Containment zones, mandatory tree removal, and restrictions on plant movement remain central strategies, but they are controversial and emotionally painful for affected communities. On the scientific front, hope lies in tolerant olive cultivars such as Leccino and FS‑17, which show resilience against the bacterium and are now being planted widely in Puglia. Researchers are also exploring biological controls, improved vector management, and advanced diagnostic tools to detect infections earlier.

Still, the path forward is complex. Xylella fastidiosa is notoriously difficult to eradicate once established, and the Mediterranean’s interconnected agricultural systems make long‑term vigilance essential. The crisis has become a defining test of how Europe responds to emerging plant diseases in an era of globalized trade and climate instability.

What remains clear is that the Mediterranean’s olive heritage—its landscapes, its economies, its cultural identity—faces a generational challenge. Yet amid the devastation, there is resilience: farmers replanting with tolerant varieties, scientists pushing the boundaries of plant pathology, and communities rallying to protect a symbol that has defined their region for millennia.

Exploring the Spice of Whiskey: Virginia Rye Whiskey

"George Washington’s gristmill and rye‑whiskey operation at Mount Vernon grew from a practical farming enterprise into one of the most successful early industrial ventures in the young United States. Washington originally built his gristmill to process wheat grown on the estate, both for his own plantation and for sale to nearby markets, making it an important commercial engine for Mount Vernon’s economy.  The shift toward distilling began in 1797, when Scottish farm manager James Anderson recognized that Washington’s abundant rye crops, modern mill, and reliable water supply. Anderson first experimented with two small stills, and the results were so promising that Washington authorized construction of a full‑scale distillery in 1798. By 1799, the year of Washington’s death, the distillery produced nearly 11,000 gallons of rye whiskey, making it the largest whiskey distillery in America at the time.  Today, the reconstructed gristmill and distillery at Mount Vernon operate much as they did in the 18th century, preserving Washington’s entrepreneurial legacy and the role rye whiskey played in early American industry."

Virginia rye whiskey has a story that stretches back to the earliest days of American distilling, shaped by the state’s fertile soil, its role as a colonial agricultural powerhouse, and the ingenuity of farmers who turned grain into a valuable commodity. In the 1700s, rye grew well across the Piedmont and Shenandoah Valley, thriving in the cooler seasons and rocky soils where other grains struggled. Early Virginians -- many of them Scots‑Irish immigrants familiar with grain distillation -- quickly adopted rye whiskey as both a household staple and a profitable trade good. While Virginia would later become famous for its brandy and, eventually, its bourbon‑leaning styles, rye whiskey was a foundational spirit in the state’s early economy.

Historically, Virginia’s distilling activity was widespread rather than concentrated in a single region. Small farm distilleries dotted the Shenandoah Valley, the Blue Ridge foothills, and the Tidewater region. In the 19th century, commercial distilleries emerged near transportation hubs—towns along the James River, rail lines, and port cities like Norfolk and Richmond. Many of these operations were modest in scale, producing whiskey for local markets rather than national distribution. By the early 20th century, however, industrialization and shifting consumer tastes began to reshape the landscape, and Prohibition ultimately wiped out what remained of Virginia’s rye whiskey industry.  

Virginia’s historic rye distilling tradition was shaped by hardy, flavorful grain varieties that thrived in the Mid‑Atlantic’s climate and soils. Farmers used a mix of winter rye varieties that were hardy and high‑yielding, producing a whiskey that balanced spice with a softer, earthier profile than the bold Monongahela ryes to the north.  Early distillers commonly relied on Abruzzi rye, an Italian winter rye introduced to the American South in the 1800s that became prized in Virginia for its resilience, high yields, and bold, spicy character. In the colonial and early‑American eras, farmers also grew heritage landrace ryes—locally adapted strains saved from year to year—which produced whiskeys with rustic, earthy depth. One of the most distinctive of these was Seashore Black Rye, a nearly forgotten coastal varietal once grown from Virginia down through the Carolinas; its dark kernels and peppery, almost chicory‑like flavor made it especially valued in regional spirits. These grains contributed to a style of rye that was flavorful yet approachable, often complemented by small amounts of corn or malted barley depending on the distiller’s preference. Modern craft distillers in Virginia have revived several of these heirloom grains, recognizing that the state’s rye‑whiskey identity is inseparable from the diverse, historically rooted rye varieties that shaped its flavor for centuries.

Virginia’s rye‑whiskey revival has been driven by a dynamic group of distillers who each bring a distinct perspective to the state’s historic grain. Catoctin Creek® in Purcellville helped lead the modern movement with its organic, grain‑to‑glass Roundstone Rye, rooted in early American distilling traditions. Reservoir Distillery in Richmond takes a different approach, producing 100% single‑grain whiskeys — including a bold, spicy rye — sourced entirely from Virginia farms. In Sperryville and Williamsburg, Copper Fox Distillery stands out for its in‑house floor‑malting and fruitwood‑smoked grains, giving its rye a uniquely aromatic, lightly smoky profile. A. Smith Bowman in Fredericksburg, though best known for bourbon, has also produced limited rye releases that reflect its long legacy as one of Virginia’s oldest distilling names. Even historic Mount Vernon contributes to the landscape, with George Washington’s reconstructed distillery producing rye using 18th‑century methods. Together, these producers showcase the breadth of Virginia’s rye identity — from heritage‑driven craftsmanship to innovative grain experimentation — and reaffirm the state’s role as a cornerstone of American rye whiskey.

Focusing on Catoctin Creek® their history is a modern revival of Virginia’s deep rye‑whiskey heritage, brought to life by founders Becky and Scott Harris. When they opened the distillery in Purcellville in 2009 it became the first legal distillery in Loudoun County since before Prohibition. Their vision grew from a shared belief that Virginia, the birthplace of American whiskey, deserved a distillery dedicated to traditional, grain‑forward rye. The Harrises built the business from the ground up, investing their savings, navigating Virginia’s strict licensing requirements, and committing to high‑quality, locally sourced ingredients. And in order to open, Scott helped draft the initial legislation allowing for craft distillers in the Commonwealth.  Their flagship Roundstone Rye quickly became one of the most awarded whiskeys, embodying their philosophy of craftsmanship, regional identity, and historical continuity. Today, Catoctin Creek stands as a leader in Virginia rye, blending historical reverence with meticulous modern distilling and releasing unique variations of the Roundstone Rye. 

Exploring the Spice of Whiskey: Maryland Rye Whiskey

Maryland rye whiskey carries a softer, sweeter swagger than its Pennsylvania cousin, yet its story is every bit as foundational to America’s early distilling heritage. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Maryland farmers found rye to be a hardy, reliable crop, but unlike the rugged Monongahela style to the north, Maryland distillers often blended their rye with a touch of corn or used a lighter mash bill. The result was a rye whiskey known for its approachable character—still spicy, but rounder, fruitier, and more honey‑edged. This gentler profile helped Maryland rye flourish, especially around Baltimore, where it became a regional favorite and a staple of pre‑Prohibition cocktail culture.

While Pennsylvania leaned heavily on heirloom varieties like Rosen rye, Maryland distillers often used a mix of local rye strains that thrived in the Chesapeake climate. These included common winter rye varieties that produced a softer spice profile, along with occasional use of heritage grains that added floral and grassy notes. The mash bills varied widely, but the hallmark of Maryland rye was balance --spice from the rye, sweetness from corn, and a smooth finish.

Geographically, Maryland’s distilling industry clustered around Baltimore and the surrounding counties. The city became a powerhouse of rye production in the late 19th century, home to well‑known names like Sherwood, Monticello, and Melvale. Distilleries also dotted the countryside in places such as Frederick, Carroll, and Washington counties, where farm distilling traditions ran deep. Baltimore’s port gave Maryland rye a commercial advantage, allowing it to travel easily along the East Coast and beyond. By the early 20th century, Maryland was producing millions of gallons of rye annually, rivaling Kentucky bourbon in popularity.

Prohibition, however, hit Maryland rye hard. Although the state was famously lax in enforcing the ban -- earning the nickname "the Free State" -- the industry never fully recovered afterward. Baltimore Pure Rye Distilling Company (BPR) was the first major post-Prohibition rye whiskey producer in Maryland. In 1938 the Dundalk based distillery released a four-year-old, straight rye whiskey under the direction of master distiller William E. Kricker.  The distillery changed ownership a few times with Seagram's closing the distillery doors in 1988. Maryland rye whiskey seemed destined for history books. 

But the 21st‑century whiskey renaissance sparked a revival with entrepreneurs on a mission to resurrect Maryland’s once‑legendary rye whiskey tradition. The Baltimore Spirits Company released its inaugural rye whiskey, Epoch Rye, in 2018 -- marking the first rye whiskey distilled in Baltimore in over 50 years. The distillery built its reputation on meticulous, grain‑forward spirits, and Epoch Rye became its flagship expression -- made from a mash bill that leans heavily into rye’s natural spice while incorporating malted barley to round out the texture and deepen the flavor. The whiskey spent two years aging in new charred American oak, resting through Baltimore’s humid summers and brisk winters, allowing the barrels to shape a profile that’s both bold and nuanced. Its release marked a symbolic return to Maryland’s historic role in American rye production, blending old‑world heritage with the craftsmanship of a modern, independent distillery.

Similarly, Sagamore Spirit Rye grew out of a desire to restore Maryland’s once‑dominant rye whiskey legacy. Founded on the banks of the Patapsco River, the distillery built its identity around a uniquely Maryland style—softer and more approachable than the bold, peppery ryes of other regions. Its core rye whiskey is crafted from a blend of two high‑rye mash bills distilled to emphasize spice, citrus, and herbal character, then proofed with limestone‑filtered spring water from Sagamore Farm. The whiskey matures in new charred American oak barrels, where years of aging in Maryland’s fluctuating climate deepen its caramel, baking‑spice, and toasted‑oak notes.  

McClintock Distilling Company is an award‑winning organic distillery based in Frederick, Maryland, and has built a reputation for reviving traditional Mid‑Atlantic spirits with a modern, sustainable approach. Their Bootjack Rye Whiskey reflects this mission beautifully. Crafted from certified organic heirloom grains and milled in‑house on a vintage stone burr mill, Bootjack Rye is designed as an homage to Maryland’s historic rye‑whiskey style. By using a mash bill rich in Abruzzi rye and aging the spirit in new oak barrels, McClintock aims to recreate the bold, spicy, grain‑forward character that once defined Maryland rye. Also check out their Etzler Straight Rye Whiskey which is a special release made with Danko Rye, Warthog Red Wheat, Yellow King Corn and was aged in New Cooperage White American Oak for five years. The ingredients were all sourced from Maryland farms such as Celadon Farms (Mt. Airy), Bought the Farm (Thurmont), and Wallin Organic Farm (Warwick). 

Tenth Ward Distilling Company in Frederick, Maryland, founded in 2016 by Monica Pearce, has built its identity around a fearless, unconventional approach to Maryland’s historic rye‑whiskey tradition. Pearce, a conservation biologist turned distiller, launched the distillery with a mission to “ward off the ordinary,” reviving the state’s once‑dominant rye heritage through bold grain choices and creative production methods. Today, Tenth Ward’s rye program centers on its Maryland Rye Whiskey, a 100% malted‑rye expression made entirely from Maryland‑grown grain malted in Frederick, giving it a distinctive single‑malt‑meets‑rye character with notes of plum, chocolatey malt, pepper, and a dry, malty finish. 

The resurgence of Maryland rye is more than a nostalgic nod—it’s a rediscovery of a regional style that nearly vanished. As modern distillers revive old recipes, experiment with grain varieties, and reconnect with the state’s distilling roots, Maryland rye is reclaiming its place in America’s whiskey landscape, proving that a spirit with a gentle touch can still leave a bold impression. It almost makes one Rye Curious.