Grape Spotlight: Peloponnese Assyrtiko with Ktima Kissa & European Wine Treasures

Two weeks ago I attended a virtual masterclass presented by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein on European Wine Treasures -- a three-year European Union co-funded initiative designed to showcase wines from the ancient vineyards of Greece to the distinctive terroir of Jumilla PDO, Spain. The idea is to present two iconic (yet perhaps obscure) wine regions with one European story in terms of exploring the authenticity, heritage, and quality behind European wines with certified origin.  The discussion on the Greece focused on the region's basic terroir and then to its signature grape: Assyrtiko.  Popularly recognized as being associated with Santorini's arid, volcanic and windy climate, but the grape is also grown in the mainland and other islands, like this Ktima Kissa (PGI) Peloponnese Assyrtiko 2025. The constant across Greece is the high natural acidity, structure, and varying fruit character depending on the growing region.

Archaeological evidence confirms that Greece is home to some of the oldest known grape wine remnants in the world with the earliest evidence of crushed grapes, dating back approximately 6,500 years (1).  The evolution of Greek wine from this period became shaped by varied topography, the rise of indigenous grapes, regional microclimates, and obviously the numerous islands with their own terroir. 

Assyrtiko is one of Greece’s most recognizable white grape varieties, historically rooted in Santorini but now cultivated across the mainland where it adapts to diverse soils and climatic conditions. The grape is known for its ability to maintain high acidity even in hot environments, a trait linked to its thick skins and slow phenolic development. Mainland expressions typically show citrus, saline, and stone‑fruit characteristics supported by a firm acid backbone and mineral tension. 

The Peloponnese is one of Greece’s most active mainland wine regions, known for its combination of coastal influences, elevated interior plateaus, and varied soil types. The northern Peloponnese, in particular, benefits from cooling breezes from the Gulf of Corinth and higher‑altitude vineyard sites that moderate summer heat. Soils range from limestone and marl to gravelly alluvial deposits, supporting moderate vine vigor and steady ripening. The region is traditionally associated with Moschofilero, Agiorgitiko, and Roditis, yet plantings of Assyrtiko have expanded due to the grape’s ability to retain acidity and structure in warm Mediterranean climates. In the Peloponnese, Assyrtiko often presents a slightly broader palate compared to its island counterparts, though still marked by linearity and structural clarity. Producers value the grape for its versatility in stainless‑steel fermentation, restrained oak use, and suitability for both early‑drinking and age‑worthy styles.

Ktima Kissa is located in Diminio in the northern Peloponnese, a coastal zone in Corinthia. The winery was founded in 1949 by the Kissa family, with a focus on showing how local grapes respond to the soils and climate of  the mountainous areas of Corinth. Their primary vineyard holdings are located on the slopes of Mavrioros - or Black Mountain - and part of Ziria mountain with the vines reaching an elevation of 750m to 900m.  The mountain thus protects these elevated sites from the hot south winds and breezes from the Gulf of Corinth spark nighttime temperature drops that help preserve acidity. These parcels are planted in rocky and sandy loamy soils that provide just enough drainage and water retention to allow for dry farming. The result of these conditions is s an extended ripening period, preserving Assyrtiko’s characteristic acidity but also allowing the varietal to express a more aromatic – fruity dimension. 

The grapes in the Ktima Kissa PGI Peloponnese Assyrtiko 2025 were hand harvested and after fermentation the wine sat with the lees for an additional nine months with periodic batonnage before bottling. The wine shows Assyrtiko’s characteristic citrus and mineral profile and is driven by the acidity bringing lasting liveliness. 

(1) Soultana-Maria Valamoti, Professor, School of History and Archaeology, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki

The Essence of the Olive: Laconiko and Greece’s Enduring Landscape

Greek extra virgin olive oil is rooted in one of the world’s oldest olive‑growing cultures, stretching back to the Minoans, who cultivated olives on Crete more than 3,000 years ago. Over centuries, olive groves spread across the Peloponnese, the Aegean islands, and the rugged mainland, becoming a defining feature of both the landscape and the diet. Historical records from classical Athens to Byzantine monasteries show how central olive oil was to trade, ritual, and daily life. Today, Greece remains one of the largest producers of extra virgin olive oil, with many regions emphasizing small‑scale cultivation, hand harvesting, and traditional milling practices that preserve freshness and clarity of flavor. Greece’s olive varieties reflect its diverse geography.

• Koroneiki: The country’s most widespread cultivar, thriving in dry, windswept areas and producing a robust oil marked by green fruit, herbs, and a firm peppery finish.
• Tsounati: Common in western Crete, yielding a softer, rounder oil with notes of ripe olive and mild bitterness.
• Manaki: A gentler Peloponnese variety, smooth and lightly floral, often harvested early for a delicate but persistent profile.
• Lianolia: Favored in the Ionian islands, producing fragrant, grassy oils with moderate pungency.

These varieties, shaped by limestone soils, maritime breezes, and steep terraces, give Greek EVOO its recognizable balance of fruit, bitterness, and spice.

Producers often point to the combination of climate, terrain, and long‑standing know‑how. Many groves are dry‑farmed, which concentrates flavor and supports high polyphenol levels. The Mediterranean’s sharp seasonal contrasts—hot summers, cool winters—encourage slow ripening and dense aromatic compounds. Modern mills have helped standardize quality, but much of the work remains rooted in family‑run operations that prioritize early harvests and rapid extraction. The result is an oil that tends to be assertive yet clean, with a profile that pairs easily with vegetables, legumes, and grilled seafood.

Laconiko represents the modern face of Greek olive oil while staying grounded in long‑standing family traditions. Based near the coastal town of Gytheio in the Peloponnese, the family organically cultivates 5,000 Koroneiki varietal olive trees in groves that benefit from abundant sunlight, sandy soils, and steady sea breezes. The sandy soil filtrates impurities that may be present and assuring olives that are of extremely highest quality. Their approach centers on early harvesting, meticulous fruit selection, and rapid cold extraction—choices that consistently yield oils with high polyphenol levels and a vivid sensory profile. The oil remains refrigerated and is transported to the company's warehouse in Manassas, Virginia where it is climate controlled and bottled on demand. This attention to refrigeration maintains the shelf life and phenolic content of the oliva oil.

Laconiko operates a showroom at the Manassas location providing samples of their traditional extra virgin olive oil, flavored olive oil, flavored vinegars, and more. Educated in the United States, brothers Dino and Diamantis Pierrakos maintain their family's generational orchard in Greece as well as the retail and bottling operation in Virginia.

On a recent visit, Diamantis provided a masterclass on their extra virgin olive oil and well as the health benefits of olive oil based on research from the World Olive Center for Health (WOCH). The health benefits are described in our previous article, The Essence of the Olive: The Health Benefits of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and Laconiko attempts to maximize these phenolic compounds by harvesting during various stages of ripening. The earlier the ripening, the higher the polyphenols, but also the higher the bitterness. Harvesting the grapes later results in a smoother flavor but lower phenolic compounds. This situational harvesting produces a truly artisan olive oil as yields are suppressed from the industry averaged of 25% volume to 5-10%.

Laconiko offers three main extra virgin olive oil expressions and highlight the amount of Oleocanthal (anti‑inflammatory), Oleacein (antioxidant), and Hydroxytyrosol (antioxidant) in every bottle. The flagship Laconiko Estate EVOO is known for its bright green fruit, fresh herbs, and a clean peppery finish that reflects both the Koroneiki variety and the precision of their milling. Since it includes olives later in the harvest cycle it contains the lowest amount of polyphenols but is targeting towards consumers who use olive oil in meals on a daily basis. The olives for their Laconiko Olio Nuovo are harvested two weeks prior to those in the Estate EVOO and thus contains a higher phenolic value with a noticeable increase in bitterness and herbaceous flavors. Diamantis demonstrated a technique that makes this olive oil more palatable by adding it to citrus - which completely dampens the bitter finish. In addition, adding olive oil to a liquid enhances the body's ability to absorb the phenolic compounds.

Their final base product is the Laconiko ZOI High Phenolic Olive Oil made from the Kalamon olive variety. This olive oil is based on ancient traditions to harvest and process olives for their medicinal value. According to Laconiko, "for ZOI, Dino was in the grove in early October to see that the olives were gently picked, and, within hours, quickly rushed to the mill, which opened early in the season – just for us. The olives were then milled at a specific temperature for a short time in order to offer our cherished customers the best High Phenolic EVOO that we can provide. By nature of the careful process, high phenolic EVOOs offer a lower yield, which is the cause of its premium price – but the intensity of oleocanthal and its cousin, antioxidant, oleacein in ZOI – a little goes a long way – 1 to 2 tsp (5 – 10 ml) or 5 – 10 mg of oleocanthal + 1 – 5 mg of oleacein per serving." Diamantis also stressed that in order to obtain the health benefits, the EVOO must be consumed daily. Thus, small teaspoon doses of ZOI are sufficient for a daily health regimen.

I highly recommend a visit to their showroom or finding retail locations.  Even though based in the United States, their core identity remains tied to the Peloponnese and that region’s natural strengths: small groves, careful stewardship, and a focus on purity. Their work has earned international recognition, yet the operation retains the feel of a hands‑on, generational craft product.