The 2018 Odyssey Greek Wine Tour - From Agiorgitiko to Xinomavro

"When I wander through my Lemnian vines to see if they’re ripe yet –for they are the first of Nature’s fruits to ripen, those vines from Lemnos…", Aristotle The Peace

The Lemnia grape, now known as Limnio, is the oldest Greek variety still in existence. Today the ancient grape is cultivated in the Northern wine regions of the Halkidiki Peninsula of Greek Macedonia, Thrace, and Thessaloniki - the regional home of Ktima Gerovassiliou. This winery was one of three Northern Greek producers along with a trio from the Peloponnese region and the Greek Islands to participate in the 2018 Odyssey Greek Wine Tour of eight U.S. cities. During their Washington D.C. stop, I was introduced to Limnio through Gerovassiliou's 2013 Avaton ($50) - a red blend of 50% Limnio, 25% Mavrotragana and 25% Mavroudi. This is a fantastic wine, earthy and structured, creeping tannins and juicy acids. Ktima Gerovassiliou is also known for their 2016 Malagousia ($23), a white wine grape that Vangelis Gerovassiliou saved from extinction in 1976.

Most of the wineries showcased wine made from both indigenous and international grape varieties as the latter are popular in both the export and domestic tourism markets. It must also be easier to sell a delicious Gerovassiliou Viognier or Chardonnay as opposed to the difficult to pronounce indigenous Limnio, Mavrotragana, Mavroudi, and Malagousia grapes. Or even the Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, Mavrodaphne, Sideritis, Vidiano, and Xinomavro grapes.

However, we will focus on the wines from indigenous grapes like the Ktima Biblia Chora 2012 Biblinos Red ($27) and 2016 Biblinos Rosé ($23), both made from a yet to be named grape from northern Greece. This winery opened in 2001 on the southern slopes of Mount Pangeon as a partnership between Vassilis Tsaktsarlis and Ktima Gerovassiliou. The grapes for the Biblinos were found growing wild on Mount Pangeon which were later cultivated at the winery's estate. DNA tests revealed a Greek heritage with "genetic traits similar to modern Greek varietals, but it is also quite different, making it more of a distant relative.
In other words, DNA testing showed that it is an older Greek varietal that has not been cultivated in more recent times". A great story for two delicious wines. Tsaktsarlis also planted the white Cretan grape Vidiano in the Pangeon mountainside which then is blended with 8% Assyrtiko to create the floral and acidic 2016 Sole Vidiano ($27).   Also look for their 100% Assyriko 2016 Areti White ($23) and 100% Agiorgitiko 2010 Areti Red ($29).  The final Northern winery was Domaine Katsaros, a small family enterprise established in 1985 operating near Mount Olympus. Second generation wine maker Evripidis Katsaros was available to pour their 2014 Valos ($24) made from 100% estate Xinomavro. This estate is located 2,460 feet above sea level and is reflected in this soft, yet fresh and earthy wine.

Moving to the Peloponnese region, sisters Erifili and Dimitra were also on hand representing Parparoussis Winery, which was founded by their father Athanassios Parparoussis in 1974. The winery's primary goal is to promote Greek indigenous varieties with the wines showcasing their unique character. Whereas the 100% Sideritis 2016 Gifts of Dionysos ($20) was very light, the 2016 Petite Fleur Rosé ($20) was very flavorful with strawberries morphing into refreshing acids. Their 2016 Assyrtiko ($23) combines juicy acids with abundant mouthfeel from five months on lees. It's somewhat similar to the velvety 2014 Gifts of Dionysos Cava ($23) which includes 25% Athiri. Another well made structured wine is their 2012 Nemea Reserve ($45) from 100% Agiorgitiko which is very similar to the Biblia Chora Areti Red. Their final red was the very unique 2010 Taos ($35), 100% Mavrodaphne that is both dirty and earthy combined with a smooth cherry finish. The winery also produces a dessert Mavrodaphne where the grape branches are bent to stop circulation and to keep the grapes concentrated. This delicious wine is all raisins and figs.

Also in Peloponnese, Ktimatselepos was pouring several wines made from international grapes but also a couple still wines and méthode champenoise sparkling wines using the Moschofilero grape. This is an aromatic white wine grape from the Ktimatselepos's home in Mantinia. Giannas Tselepos founded his namesake winery in 1989 and in 2003 he purchased Ktima Driopi in Nemea that features that region's signature grape: Agiorgitiko. First however, the Amalia Brut NV ($25) and 2013 Amalia Vintage ($40) sparkling wines are both very refreshing with the vintage version having an almond character. And the 2016 Blanc de Gris ($24) provides nice texture and mouthfeel for a light and acidic wine. As for the Agiorgitiko, the 2013 Driopi Nemea Reserve ($34) is excellent with a full bodied creamy palate and structured tannins. The less expensive 2015 Driopi Nemea ($19) still provides plenty of solid fruit flavors with similar integrated tannins.

The Greek Islands comprised the final region with Giannas Tselepos representing Santorini's Canava Chrissou Estate in addition to Venetsanos Winery and Rhous Tamiolakis winery in Crete. Starting with the Cretan winery, I slowly flowed through their four wines starting with the bright and floral 2016 Estate White ($18) a blend of 80% Muscat of Spina and 20% Vidiano then on to the spicy and textured 2015 Skipper White ($23).  This wine is comprised of predominately Vidiano with 30% Plyto --another ancient grape variety brought back from extinction. As for reds, the 2016 Estate Red ($19) is a jammy blend of 90% Kotsifali and 10% Syrah, whereas the 2015 Skipper Red ($24) is a co-fermentation of 70% Kotsifali and 30% Mandilaria. This fruit forward wine ends with subtle tannins - these are two easy drinking reds.

Assyrtiko is the signature grape of Santorini in each of the examples were fresh, saline driven, and full of racy acids. Each of the Canava Chrissou 2016 Santorini ($34) and 2016 Laoudia ($50) as well as the Venetsanos 2016 Santorini ($37) and 2016 Nykteri ($40) are highly recommended. Venetsanos also offers a 2016 Mandilaria ($37) that has slightly more body but similar refreshing acids.

Cheers to the Odyssey Greek Wine Tour and don't hesitate to try wines from indigenous Greek varieties. They may be impossible to pronounce, but well worth the time.

Learning About Greek #Wine via #winestudio

For the past few weeks, Tina and Guy have been introducing us to Greek wine during their Mondya night #winestudio chats. Their schedule can be found at  Protocol Wine Studio. My knowledge of Greek wine is very basic, almost singularly geared towwards Santorini. Thus during #winestudio, I was able to learn about other growing regions such as the Macedonian region of Northern Greece, the Peloponnese, and other Aegean Islands.  The final night, I was fortunate to be included in a media tasting of three Greek wines:

• 2012 Domaine Skouras Moschofilero [mos ko fee' le ro] Peloponnese $18
• 2011 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko-Athiri [a seer' tee ko] [ah thee' ree] Santorini $18
• 2009 Alpha Estate Xinomavro [zee-NO-mav-ro] Hedgehog Vineyard Amyndeon $24

Starting with the Domaine Skouras, the Moschofilero is a white wine grape with a purple skin - making this a vin gris wine. It is grown throughout Greece, but has found a noticeable home in the Peloponnese. It has an inherent spicy character which reminded me of a Rkatsitel, with the floral aroma of a muscat. Although many others thought the aroma seemed very Viognier-ish. The finish was tart and acidic - very refreshing and pleasant.

I've become very fond of Assyrtiko wines from Santorini and one popular style is to blend this grape with Athiri. The latter adds some weight and depth along with more fruit flavors to the mineral-salty rich Assyrtik. The Domaine Sigalasis a fantastic wine; the finish goes on forever. The flavor profile starts with yellow fruit and ends with great acidity and mineral balance. Give me some oysters.

The final wine was the Alpha Estate Xinomavro, harvested from the Amyndeon AOC northeastern Greece. In this region, winters are wet with moderate temperatures; summers, hot and dry.  The result is intense fruit which produce intense wines, and that describes the 2009 Alpha Estate Xinomavro. It was much bigger than I had imagined, full of purple fruit flavor - very plummy - plus a black pepper spice. The finish was acidic and tannic - no wonder Alpha Estate ages this wine one year in the bottle before release. Regardless, the wine benefits from an aerator - maybe even a blender. It screams for rich red meat. Not surprisingly, the following day the wine had mellowed - still plenty of plum flavor, but the tannins had dissipated to leave a smoother - easier to drink wine.

Go out and explore Greek wines. They area affordable, very drinkable, low in alcohol, and becoming more accessible - what more incentive do you need. 

Wines of Santorini...from Assyrtiko to Vinsanto

Wines from Santorini

Santorini, we've all seen photos of the picturous villages and white sandy beaches on this Greek archipelago. But many of us are probably unfamiliar of the rich wine-making tradition (3500 BC) on these islands - particular the main island of Santorini. We were very unfamiliar; until we received a care package of wines from the Wines From Santorini. Here's what we learned.

The current geographic layout of Santorini is the result of a massive volcanic eruption in 1600BC that created the central lagoon and surround islands. The inhabitants were destroyed, but a few vines survived which may be the lineage to the most important indigenous wine grape: Assyrtiko.  Along with Athiri and Aidani, these grapes comprise the majority of Santorini white wines as well as Vinsanto (Italian: "holy wine"). This is a dessert wine made from sun-dried grapes, then aged in barrel; a Mediterranean delicacy for centuries.

Wines from Santorini

Grape growing on Santorini is quite unique. Because of the volcanic eruption, the limestone base is covered with chalk, slate, ash, and lava. This composition helps to create wines with a naturally low pH level and high acidity.  The lack of clay in the soil also creates a natural barrier to the Phylloxera louse which has never ventured onto the island. As a result, the vines are some of the oldest, ungrafted vines in the world. Finally, rainfall is quite rare, but the vines are "watered" at night by a mist that rolls in from the Aegean. The seas also bring heavy winds so the vines are pruned like a cylinder in order to protect the fruit.  The result of this hot, dry, climate is very low yields - averaging 25 hl/ha. And all the wines are protected under the "Santorini" OPAP designations of origin.

The first wine we sampled was the Gavalas Winery 2009 Santorini a 90-10 blend of  Assyrtiko and Aidan. The Gavalas family has been producing wine for three centuries and the grapes from this wine were harvested from the "vineyard of Santorini" that is considered to be the oldest in Greece; perhaps even the world's oldest continually cultivated vineyard.  Pretty amazing. Only 25% of the juice is extracted from the grapes which is then fermented in stainless steel. The wine starts with a citrus aroma mixed in with a slight dose of salty air. The wine  tastes fresh and clean, with hints of minerality and decent acidity.  Very natural and nicely done.

The next wine was the Gaia Estate 2011 Thalassitis, 100% Assytiko. This winery is a youngster in relative terms, having opened in 1994. The owners, Leon Karatsalos and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, started the winery in part to save an old tomato processing plant from being lost to the modern world - i.e tourism. Their Thalassitis (“Thalassitis Oenos” Greek for sea-originated wine) is named for the ancient practice of mixing wine with sea water apparently for therapeutic reasons. Did they know something we are missing today?  Instead the owners of Gaia Estate believe that their proximity to the Aegean Sea creates a similar affect and provides the Thalassitis with a unique flavor. That, and 80-year old vines. The wine is bigger than the Gavalas with even more acidity but with the same mineral and and sea salt characteristics. This is your "Wow" wine, which was simultaneously proclaimed at our table causing a jinx comment from our son. Wow.

Finally, we moved to a vinsanto, the Karamolegos 2005 Vinsanto to be precise - a blend of Assytiko and Aidani. These grapes were sun-dried for twelve days, fermented two months in barrel, followed by two years aging in more oak. The result is a blood orange wine with raisins, honey, nuts, and vanilla popping up at various stages in the palette. The wine is syrupy - but not sickening so - with a long finish that invites you back for more. This is something else. We were first introduced to this style from a Cretan Wine exhibit at the South Beach Wine & Festival years ago and promptly forgot. Not anymore.

Here's to hoping we visit Santorini one day. Cheers.