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Francesco Ciummo is a pioneer - yes they still exist. He learned how to graft vines at 17, moved to Belgium at 20 to work as a coal miner, then emigrated to Venezuela and learned the auto body trade. In 1961, at 26 years old, he came to the United States eventually purchasing a body shop in Bergenfield, NJ. Ciummo retired at 55, and soon afterward purchased 135 acres in Warwick, NY where he planted a vineyard. He opened
Demarest Hill Winery in 1998 then started tinkering in other craft beverages such as distilled products in 2006 and hard cider more recently. Not satisfied with a limited portfolio, Ciummo has explored the boundaries of wine, spirits, vinegar, and flavorings currently offering over 90 distinct products for sale - 33 of which are distilled spirits and liquors.
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During a Christmas Break visit, we sampled many of these offerings with a keen interest in the unique distilled products. For instance, Ciummo distills a rather tasty
Clear Grappa but also sells versions augmented with honey, raisins, or figs. He follows a similar pattern with grape brandy, selling versions aged in
Cherry Tree wood and our favorite the
Triple Tree Plus Brandy ($22) – aged from maple, oak, apple, cherry and cedar trees from his property. I also enjoyed the
Dandelion Brandy ($22) distilled with a dandelion flower mash and serves as a suitable digestif. The
Sherry is suggestive of Jerez and the
Tropical Liquore - a version of the Dominican drink "Mamajuana" is a blend of rum, red wine, and honey aged in the bottle with tree bark and herbs. And his fruit brandies,
Cherry and
Peach are sweet - but loaded with flavor.
As for wine, a majority of the products are on the sweeter scale but there are several dry offerings that are pleasant. The estate
Dry Aurora - a white hybrid grape variety produced by Albert Seibel - is complex and interesting. And the off-dry
Riesling comes across drier as the acids enable a crisp and clean finish. For reds, the
Bacchus Noir made from Baco Noir was our favorite followed by the
Warwick Black Pearl and
Warwick Red Deer composed of De Chaunac and Marechal Foch respectively. For a final, try the
Apple Cider and Rum ($14) which is only 2% alcohol but provides a delicious and deep apple flavor.