Grape Spotlight: Peña Garnacha and the Calatayud DO

Calatayud is a high‑altitude appellation in Aragón in northeastern Spain, set among rugged hills and river valleys shaped by the Jalón and Jiloca rivers. Vineyards here sit between 650 and 900 meters (2,100–3,000 feet), making it one of Spain’s highest red‑wine regions. The climate is continental—hot, dry summers; cold winters; and wide day‑night temperature swings that help preserve acidity. Much of the terrain is a patchwork of slate, schist, and iron‑rich clay, soils that stress the vines just enough to concentrate flavor. Although winegrowing in the area dates back to Roman times, Calatayud’s modern revival has centered on reclaiming old bush‑trained vineyards and spotlighting Garnacha as the region’s signature grape.

Garnacha thrives in this environment. The grape ripens late and handles heat and drought well, but in Calatayud the altitude adds freshness and structure. Many of the vines are 40–100 years old, low‑yielding plants with deep roots and naturally small clusters. Wines from these vineyards tend to be deeply colored, with red and black fruit, herbal notes, and a firm mineral line from the stony soils. The combination of elevation and old vines gives Garnacha from Calatayud a balance that’s harder to achieve in warmer, lower‑lying areas.

Peña -- crafted by Master of Wine Norrel Robertson -- is one of the labels that captures this style cleanly. The wine is sourced from older bush vines planted on rocky slopes, where the soils are thin and the yields modest. In the glass, Peña Garnacha (aka "Garnacha Club") is medium‑bodied with ripe red fruit—cherry, raspberry, and a touch of plum—supported by subtle spice and a faint earthiness. The acidity is bright, a hallmark of the region’s elevation, and the tannins are gentle but present. It’s a straightforward, honest expression of Calatayud: fruit‑driven, lifted, and shaped by the landscape rather than heavy winemaking.

Five Wines From Garnacha Denominaciones de Origens

Grenache is commonly known as the dominant southern Rhone grape in that region's delicious GSM blends. Yet, going by its Spanish name Garnacha, it is very much a Mediterranean grape. The grape's rise to fame originated in the Kingdom of Aragon in northeast Spain. (Whether Garnacha was born there or in Sardinian is being debated.)  As powdery mildew spread through Europe, the grapes resistance to that disease increased it's planting. Into Languedoc, Rhone, Italy, even Australia, and more recently in the United States. But the grape is still king in Spain or at least the third most planted grape variety in that country.  Here are five from Denominaciones de Origen Garnacha-focused regions. In these regions, Garnacha, whether red or white, must comprise 85% of the wine.

Celler Batea Vall Major White Garnacha ($11) - Grenache comes in both a white and red version. Terra Alta is located just east of Aragon in Catalonia. Terra Alta means "High Land" and refers to the high altitude terraces where Vall Major’s Garnacha Blanca vineyards are planted. We are talking 1,200-2,000 ft above sea level. The soil is mostly limestone leading to a saline stone fruit character and lingering but subtle acids.

El Circo Garnacha 2015 ($10) Located in the Cariñena Denomination of Origin - the oldest in Aragon as well as in Europe (1932). The region is situated west of Terra Alta and Barcelona - about three hours by car. The soils are very rocky as limestone and clay dominate. The vineyards reside between 1,150-2,625 ft in a more continental climate with hot summers and very cold winters. This wine starts with juicy red fruit, some earthiness, and ends fresh and smooth. Light tannins.

Care Tinto Roble Garnacha ($11) After fermentation, the estate grapes are aged four months in oak barriques. The wine has some toastiness that is almost overshadowed by the fruit forward start. The finish is rustic, clean, and smooth.

Terrai OVG 2015 ($12) Made from grapes harvested from the best lots from old vine Garnacha - over 45 years old. No oak so this wine is fruit throughout: forward, middle, and finish. There is also trace amounts of minerality and a mildly spicy & tannic finish.

Las Moradas Initio 2010 ($12) Las Moradas is located in the sub-region of San Martín de Valdeiglesias southeast of Madrid. Las Moradas vineyards are at a high altitude of about 2,850 feet in the foothills of the Sierra de Gredos. The wine is fermented with natural yeast and aged in French oak barrels for 14 months. There is a black licorice aroma, candied cherries, medium bodied, earthy smooth with lingering tannins. By far my favorite of the group.