Effervescence Unleashed: Virginia Sparkling Red Wine

"The overall inspiration for the wine comes from the often asked question, "why not?" This is a popular question here at CV and has led to many different styles of wine we produce. " - Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards discussing their Buttorfleoge Norton Pet Nat.

Since the inception of the modern Virginia wine industry, both Horton Vineyards and Chrysalis Vineyards have been pioneers in its development. This can be seen by their introducing (or re-introducing) popular grape varieties such as Viognier, Petit Manseng, and Norton. In addition, they have been pioneers in creating different styles of wine - notably - sparkling red wine.

The Chrysalis Vineyards 2019 Buttorfleoge ($28) is a rarity. This is a Norton Pét-Nat, a new use for Virginia's native grape.  In 2023 there were 130 acres of Norton planted in Virginia (10th most abundant in the Commonwealth(1)). The grape is usually seen as a rich and juicy dry wine that needs a few years in the bottle to tame its astringent nature. Yet, its versatility can be seen in the other styles such as a port-styled wine, a semi-dry lighter offering, and in various blends. But this is the first sparkling I've experienced via Pétillant Naturel using 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine. Expect the traditional dark purple color of the Norton but there is an unexpected strong floral note followed by blackberry bubbles.

According to Jake Blodinger, winemaker at Chrysalis Vineyards, "using the methode ancestrale technique ‘rediscovered’ in the Loire in the 1990s, this 100% whole-clustered pressed Norton wine is produced using only the natural microflora found at Locksley Estate. This wine is fermented in tank until there is only a small amount of sugar left. At this point, the wine is bottled and laid down to let the fermentation finish. The result is a true, terroir-driven pétillant-naturel (or Pét Nat), and an exciting addition to the Norton lineup here at Chrysalis Vineyards". 

The Horton Vineyards NV Knots & Shuttles ($24.95) is a another red sparkling wine, this one made from 100% Tannat. Another rarity on many levels.  First, Tannat is the 14th most widely planted grape variety in the Commonwealth with only 78 acres planted. For perspective, Cabernet Franc is the most widely planted grape with 661 acres (1).  Second, Virginia Tannat is generally bottled in Bordeaux-styled blends or as a single varietal wine depending on its tannic structure and juiciness. But as a sparkling wine?  This has to be a first. The wine starts with a black fruit intensity but yields to more finesse once the effervescence starts its escape. 

(1) 2023 Virginia Wine 2023 Commercial Wine Grape Report

Effervescence Unleashed: Champagne Widows: First Woman of Champagne, Veuve Clicquot and the Breathless Brut

In order to help kickoff the BevFluence Effervescence Unleashed program I participated in a book-sparkling wine collaboration between Rebecca Rosenberg's Champagne Widows: First Woman of Champagne, Veuve Clicquot and the Breathless Brut from Breathless Sparking Wines.

The historical novel follows the life of Barbe-Nicole Clicquot and her role launching the famous internationally recognized sparkling wine house. Rosenberg researched not only Barbe-Nicole early life, marriage to Francois Clicquot, his tragic death, but also Barbe-Nicole's difficulties overcoming his death, making champagne, and the Napoleonic Codes preventing women from owning a business.  Rosenberg fills in the historical facts with dialogue and a writing style that provides insights of personal struggles as well as the geo-political and technological situation of that period. These conditions reverberate to the American historical experience if one contemplates the early 19th century. 

The Champagne region of France is renowned for its sparkling wines. Still, its history is also rich with stories of resilience and innovation, particularly those of remarkable women who transformed the industry. Among these pioneers, the daring widows of Champagne, such as Madame Clicquot and Madame Pommery, played a pivotal role in shaping the modern champagne trade.

The Rise of the Widows
In the 18th and 19th centuries, many women found themselves at the helm of champagne houses after the untimely deaths of their husbands. With limited options, these widows embraced the challenge, often taking on roles that were traditionally reserved for men. Madame Clicquot, for instance, inherited her husband’s champagne house in 1805 and became a trailblazer. She introduced innovative practices, including the riddling process, which clarified champagne, making it clearer and more appealing to consumers.

Breaking Barriers
The contributions of these women extended beyond business acumen; they also challenged societal norms. At a time when women had limited rights and were often marginalized, these widows stepped into leadership roles, demonstrating that they could not only run businesses but excel in them. Their stories highlight the intersection of gender and entrepreneurship in a historical context that is often overlooked.

A Legacy of Innovation
The impact of these pioneering women can still be felt today. The innovations they introduced in production techniques and marketing strategies laid the foundation for the modern champagne industry. The emphasis on quality, branding, and customer experience that they championed continues to influence how champagne is produced and sold.

Sonoma's Breathless Wines was the sponsor for the kickoff event, and have provided their Breathless Brut ($29). This is a blend of 54% Chardonnay, 38% Pinot Noir, 6% Pinot Meunier, and 2% Pinot Blanc made the méthode champenoise -- the secondary fermentation process used by the widow Clicquot and all of Champagne. This is a tight effervescent wine with a savory yeasty and melon profile with a touch of green apple Chardonnay. An even more attractive wine when considering the retail price.