BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy: Cambio -- A Mexican-styled Tequila

Tequila is one of the only spirits in the world to retain a sense of place through its entire process, it retains its Terroir. Every choice we made with Cambio is to enhance the effect and show the true potential of the spirit.” John des Rosiers - Founder of Cambio Tequila

At the very beginning of John des Rosiers' presentation at the BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy, he mentioned the desire to create a "Mexican-styled Tequila" as a result of conversations with one of his wife's Jalisco cousins pertaining to creating a new tequila brand. This philosophy closely corresponds to the above quote which I obtained while researching the brand before the Speakeasy. 

But what defines a Mexican-styled Tequila and what differentiates it from contemporary and popular tequila brands? This was the unofficial topic of the next 45 minutes and a later Cambio Tequila Dinner where Mr. des Rosiers discussed the rational for starting the brand and the many production steps he choose to come closer to "how tequila was produced back in the day".  These production steps feature a Tahona to crush the agave, fermentation in wooden vats, and distilling using an Alembic copper still. 

As des Rosiers pressed forward in developing this new brand, his cousins introduced him to ZB Distillery, the only operation willing to adopt his innovations and longer production times. The distillery also allowed a separate building to be completely modified to incorporate a design for 100% natural process. He also selected the Ruvalcaba de Arandas family and their Ruvalferti agave estate as the source for the whole Blue Weber, highland agave. In return the Global G.A.P. certified company adjusted to Cambio's unique harvest requirements. 

For modern tequila, the general production methodology is to harvest the piñas and at some point cut them into pieces, and cook using autoclaves (pressure cooker within 6-12 hours) or stone ovens (2-3 days).  Molinos (mechanized shredding mills) or  diffusers extract the aguamiel juice from the softened agave. It is the aguamiel juice that is then fermented -- usually in large stainless steel vats. After fermentation, the "musto muerto" is then distilled maybe in a traditional copper still, maybe a stainless steel version of the Alembic still, but more likely in a large column still - more suited for mass production. 

Cambio returned to a more historic Mexican-styled approach by cooking the piñas the same day they are harvested -- and cooking the Blue Weber whole. This allows the retention of various aromas and flavors that are lost early in the production process in modern processes. Cambio uses a stone oven to cook the whole piñas and allows four days to proceed instead of the standard 2-3 days.  The slower cooking of the agave won't caramelize the sugars as much, so it tends to create a sweeter, smoother spirit with less bitterness in the finish.  After cooking, a traditional Tahona wheel is used to gently squeeze the agave juice from the plant by hand instead of a roller machine or diffuser processing.  Like the slow cooking, the use of a tahona wheel helps retain inherent aromas and flavors. 

While moving to the fermentation process, Cambio continues reverting back to historic techniques. They slow the fermentation time down starting with using cooler deep-well water that is filtered by the volcanic soils. The low temperature fermentation is more reminiscent of wine fermentation and results in a more flavorful spirit with greater texture and complexity. This low fermentation requires a unique set of four types of yeast that can operate at lower temperatures. And most importantly, the fermentation occurs in wooden vats where ZB Distillery allowed Cambio to build temperature controlled tanks around the wooden vats. These vats are made from Tennessee white oak and traditional Mexican oak. The resulting fermentation process takes 14 days with includes 2-days of malolactic fermentation. 

The resulting "musto muerto" is then distilled 12 hours in an Alembic copper still to exactly 50% alcohol. There is no cutting of heads and tails and fats and oils are not filtered. Each run is tested in certified by the required authorities. 

All the Cambio tequilas are then aged for some period and they use 13 barrel types to soften and add complexity and nuance to their spirits. The Blanco is aged for two weeks in used White Burgundy and White Bordeaux wine barrels.  The Reposado is aged 30 days in a similar combination of used white wine barrels and then five additional months in French Oak Chardonnay barrels. And the Anejo is aged on average for 15-24 months blended from three different types of French Oak barrels and finishes. 

Even the labels are made using historical methods, in this case artisan “amate,” an ancient method of creating nonwoven fabric using the barks of indigenous trees that dates back to the Mayas and the Aztecs.

We will be following this post with various tasting reviews and cocktail recipes using Cambio Tequila.