Grape Spotlight: Moravian Pálava Using Sonberk as a Benchmark

Pálava tells the story of modern Moravia: a native grape rooted in tradition, yet confident enough to speak to the world. For many Czech wine lovers, Pálava represents a distinctly Moravian style of wine and is often considered one of the country's signature varieties. -- Sonberk Winery **

During an evening at the Czechia Embassy, we tasted two expressions of a local hybrid Pálava - a variety developed in Moravia by Josef Veverka from a crossbreeding Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. The new grape was named after the Pálava Hills, a UNESCO-protected landscape area in South Moravia renowned for its vineyards, limestone slopes, and centuries-old winemaking tradition. The breeding station where Veverka completed his work was located on the slopes of these hills, making the name a natural tribute to the region. Imagine the aromatics in these wines. First, though, let's step into the terroir. 

Moravia is the Czech Republic's viticultural engine and is responsible for 96% of Czech wine production. The region sits along the 49th parallel, sharing a latitude with Alsace and Champagne. It also resides at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness which helps explain its hallmark style: high‑acid, aromatic wines shaped by warm summers, cool autumns, and slow ripening. Vineyards typically lie between 240–320 meters in elevation and the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits.

Mikulov is a subregion of Moravia and is dominated by the limestone massif of Pálava -- one of Moravia’s most distinctive terroirs. It excels in Welsch Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and the local aromatic cross Pálava. The town of Mikulov is a cultural and wine hub, home to festivals and historic wine presses. 

Pálava is a mid‑ to late‑ripening variety, typically reaching full maturity toward the end of the harvest window in South Moravia. It thrives in warm exposures where it can accumulate flavor precursors without losing acidity. The grape forms medium‑compact clusters with small to medium berries, thick enough in skin to contribute a gentle phenolic grip an advantage over its parents. Yields must be controlled; if overcropped, aromatics flatten and the wine loses its distinctive spice. In the right sites, however, Pálava develops a layered aromatic profile while maintaining enough acidity to avoid heaviness. The result is unmistakable: a wine that marries Traminer’s rose‑petal aromatics with the gentle acidity and orchard‑fruit charm of Müller‑Thurgau.

Sonberk Winery stands on a vineyard site cultivated since at least the 13th century, historically prized for its south‑facing slopes overlooking the Pálava Hills in the Mikulov subregion. Founded in 2003, the modern winery was built in 2008 and is recognized as one of Czechia’s first examples of contemporary wine architecture. Sonberk farms roughly 40–45 hectares on loess soils and produces acclaimed whites - especially Riesling, Pálava, Traminer, and Sauvignon - known for focusing on low yields, hand harvesting, and meticulous vineyard work to highlight the character of Mikulov's limestone terroir. 

"One of Pálava's greatest strengths is its versatility. Few aromatic varieties are capable of expressing themselves so convincingly across different levels of sweetness. In our experience, a near-dry style with around 5–6 g/L of residual sugar offers exceptional harmony at the table, allowing the wine's freshness and aromatics to shine. At the same time, Pálava can achieve extraordinary results in sweeter styles, including traditional straw wines with residual sugar levels approaching 190 g/L, where its floral character and exotic fruit notes gain impressive depth and complexity. **"

The winery's approach to Pálava is deliberately restrained: fermentations are cool, aromatics are preserved, and residual sugar is kept in balance with acidity. The result is a style that feels modern and architectural --aromatic but not exaggerated, textured but never heavy. Sonberk’s Pálava typically shows layers of white peach, lychee, citrus blossom, and ginger, grounded by a mineral line that reflects the vineyard’s limestone base. 

At the Embassy, we started with the 2024 Pálava, their everyday offering that, besides the strong floral aromas, shows tropical notes such as guava and peaches, some ginger, and all within a surprisingly fuller body. Expect minerality racing through the finish. The second expression was the Pálava 2024 VOC which shared similar traits as the previous with additional spice and texture from the oak treatment.  The wine is produced under the VOC (Wine of Original Certification) appellation system, which guarantees the wine's origin and typicity. This wine provides both charm and structure. The winery believes both wines are ready for the international market. I heartily concur. 

These wines are available through Wine of Czech Republic.

** Thank you to Kristína Eibl, Head of Marketing & Events at Sonberk Winery for most of the information about Pálava and the vineyard photos. 

Understanding Czech Wine: Insights from the Embassy "Meet the Winemakers" Masterclass

This month I attended the Meet the Winemakers: Czech Wine Masterclass at the Czechia Embassy in Washington, D.C.  I arrived a complete novice regarding that Central European county's geography as well as the major viticulture characteristics. A few hours later, I left with a considerably greater understanding and appreciation for the Czech wine industry.

Czechia can be divided into two major regions, Bohemia and Moravia. Bohemia forms the historic western heart of the Czech lands, long centered around Prague with more forests and mountainous terrain. This beer centric region plays only a small part of Czech wine production. On the other hand, Moravia, to the east, developed independently with its own identity distinguished by vineyards planted in fertile plains and rolling hills. And their winemaking tradition stretches back to the Roman era, when viticulture was introduced near today’s Pálava Hills. 

In other words, Moravia is the Czech Republic's viticultural engine responsible for 96% of Czech wine production. The region sits along the 49th parallel, sharing a latitude with Alsace and Champagne. It also resides at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness which helps explain its hallmark style: high‑acid, aromatic wines shaped by warm summers, cool autumns, and slow ripening. Vineyards typically lie between 240–320 meters in elevation and the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits. Moravia can be divided into four subregions with this information provided by VisitCzechia.

• Znojmo — Known for aromatic white wines, especially Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Welschriesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. Gravelly soils and cooler conditions favor freshness and spice. Red wines are less common but respected in areas like Dolní Kounice. Znojmo city anchors the region with historic cellars and wine museums. 
  
  
• Mikulov — Dominated by the limestone massif of Pálava, this is one of Moravia’s most distinctive terroirs. It excels in Welsch Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and the local aromatic cross Pálava. The town of Mikulov is a cultural and wine hub, home to festivals and historic wine presses. 
  
  
• Velké Pavlovice — Among the sunniest areas in the Czech Republic, producing ripe, fruit‑driven wines. Sandy soils support both whites and reds, with Blaufränkisch and Saint Laurent performing particularly well. It is also one of the largest vineyard zones in Moravia. 
  
  
• Slovácko — The most vintner‑dense subregion, spanning South Moravia and the Zlín Region. Its varied soils and microclimates allow for a broad mix of varieties, and its villages preserve some of the region’s strongest folk and cellar traditions. 

The Masterclass featured wines from each of these regions as well as one from Bohemia and was curated by sommelier Marek Broš -- one of the leading figures on the contemporary Czech food and wine scene.  Winemaker Roman Fabig (FABIG Vinařství) presented information on the wines that are available through Petra Červená's Wine of Czech Republic.  Then, Veronika Spevakova (Wills International) poured a couple Vinařství Spěvák wines from the Slovácko subregion.  After a general presentation on the wines and regions, a select set of wines were paired with a fantastic five course meal prepared by the embassy's highly esteemed chef. 

We were also able to sample the wines using exceptionally thin, durable, and hand blown stemware from Květná 1794. This is one of the oldest continuously operating glassworks in Central Europe, founded in 1794 by Prince Alois I of Liechtenstein in the beech‑forested borderlands of Strání near the Slovak frontier.  It is a day long process to craft one glass and at times requires the services of twelve craftsman. Thank you to the Embassy for organizing this tremendous opportunity to discover Czech wines.

Fabig Winery (Hustopeče, Velké Pavlovice, Moravia)
Founded in 2011 in Hustopeče, Fabig is a young estate built around a singular focus on Sauvignon Blanc. Winemaker Roman Fabig farms organically and emphasizes reductive, precise winemaking to protect site expression. He produces wines known for clarity, tension, and long‑term aging potential. The winery sits in one of Moravia’s historically important vineyard towns, with vineyards spanning sand, sandstone, and claystone soils that shape the stylistic range of his dozen plus Sauvignon‑based portfolio. Two of these were the Sauvignon Blanc Sahara 2023 and  Sauvignon Blanc BIG 2023.

The Sahara refers to a limestone dominant single vineyard site near the Austrian border on the Pálava hill, Pavlov village; a terrain drastically different than their home estate in Hustopeče. This is a very herbaceous wine with racy minerality lines with lemon zest. The BIG is a blend of the best grapes from three single vineyard plots fermented and matured in oak for 11 months. It has a much bigger mouthfeel with layers of citrus laced with minerals. 

Sonberk Winery (Popice, Mikulov, Moravia)
Sonberk stands on a vineyard site cultivated since at least the 13th century, historically prized for its south‑facing slopes overlooking the Pálava Hills in the Mikulov subregion. Founded in 2003, the modern winery was built in 2008 and is recognized as one of Czechia’s first examples of contemporary wine architecture. Sonberk farms roughly 40–45 hectares on loess soils and produces acclaimed whites - especially Riesling, Pálava, Traminer, and Sauvignon - known for expressive fruit, minerality, and sustainable vineyard practices.  One of these practices is lining the individual rows with meadow belts, which help retain water and attract beneficial insects. 

During the evening we tasted two expressions of the local hybrid, and terroir named, Pálava - a variety developed  in Moravia by Josef Veverka from a crossbreeding Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau. Imagine the aromatics in these wines. And expect a future Grape Spotlight post.  We started with the 2024 Pálava, their everyday offering that besides the strong floral aromas shows tropical notes such as guava and peaches within a surprisingly fuller body. Expect minerality racing through the finish. The second expression was the Pálava 2024 VOC which shared similar traits as the previous with additional spice and texture from the oak treatment. 

THAYA Winery (Hnanice, Znojmo, Moravia)
THAYA, located near Hnanice on the edge of Podyjí National Park, is a modern estate that benefits from the cooling influence of forest terrain and the Dyje/Thaya River. The current operation opened in 2022, but the winery continues the legacy of the earlier Trávníček & Kořínek estates. THAYA farms about 105 hectares in the Znojmo subregion, producing fresh, aromatic whites - notably Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gruner Veltliner, and Sauvignon Blanc - with a mineral driven style defined by granitic and loess‑clay soils, high acidity, and slow ripening. We saw this in action with theirsingle vineyard 2023 Pinot Blanc. The wine starts with a floral spruce and herbaceous aroma followed by a textured mouthfeel as a result of an oak treatment stressing older barrels augmented by 30% American oak. The racy minerality and acidity lifts the wine and provides a lasting finish.   

J. Springer Winery (Bořetice, Slovácko, Moravia)
The Springer family’s winemaking roots date to 1807, and today the estate in Bořetice focuses on organically grown, low‑yield Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from south‑facing loess and clay‑loess vineyards. The estate vineyards were certified organic in 2007 and the winery is known for its unfiltered, terroir‑driven reds. The historic Čtvrtě and Záhebenské vineyards contribute to the winery’s reputation for elegant, cool‑climate Moravian expressions. Both vineyards are planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir where the vines were sourced directly from France. The cool nights and moderately warm days provide a long period of ripening. 

We tasted two expressions of Pinot Noir, the 2023 Pinot Noir and 2023 Pinot Noir Roučí. The first comes is derived from grapes harvested from both vineyards and shows sour cherries throughout intermingled with herbaceousness and a soft earthy complexion. A very easy drinking lovely wine. The Roučí comes from the Čtvrtě vineyard and is a delicate wine, plum and cherries with slight spice firmed by approachable tannins. Another fantastic offering. 

Kutná Hora Wine Cellars (Kutná Hora, Central Bohemia)
Venturing into Bohemia, this is a biodynamic, family‑run winery dedicated to reviving one of Bohemia’s oldest wine regions, where viticulture is documented as early as 1101.  In fact, Kutná Hora is a UNESCO‑listed medieval town where monks have been growing grapes since the 12th century. The winery was founded in 2002 by Stanislav Rudolfský, with his son Lukáš assuming management three years later.  They are the first and only fully certified biodynamic winery in the Czech Republic; not bad for the second largest winery in Bohemia.  

At the Masterclass, we started with their Great Little Chapel 2023 - a cuvee of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay from the Nad Kapličkou vineyard in Kutná Hora. From the winery, "this vineyard is located below Kaňk hill in Kutná Hora and was planted in 2011. The soil consists of well-watered brown earth with calcareous sediments of the Mesozoic sea". Strong aromatics lead into tart then creamy stone fruit with slight spice and a mineral driven finish.  Later, we enjoyed their Kutná Hora Pinot Noir 2022 paired with roasted duck breast. The grapes were grown at the Všech svatýchis vineyard located on the southern slope of Sukov hill in Kutná Hora. The soil profile here is shallow, in places we find only 10 cm of soil, under which is rocky bedrock formed by gneiss. All Kutná Hora red wines are fermented in open vats, then aged for at least one year in French oak barrels. The wines are then bottled without filtration, sometimes directly from the barrel. Expect a slight mint aroma with earthiness and pleasant tannins on the palate.  Savor this one slowly. 

Vinařství Spěvák (Dubňany, Slovácko, Moravia)
This is a family‑run estate that operates several vineyards within Slovácko, most situated in the Lower Morava Valley, with a diverse planting of over 30 grape varieties. The winery originated behind the Iron Curtain as a family vineyard for Frantisek and Marie Spěvák while Frantisek worked as a head agronomist at a large co-op.  As a bonus, he was fortunate enough to study under Professor Vilem Kraus, an educator, expert and published author on viticulture at Mendel University in Brno. Following the Velvet Revolution (1989) and the legalization of private business establishment (1990), Vinařství Spěvák became fully licensed and official the same year as the dissolution of Czechoslovakia -- 1993. Over the next 20+ years, two sons David and Frantisek Jr., graduated from the Vocational Viniculture School in Valtice and returned to help manage the winery's operations.  

Veronika Spevakova presented two Spěvák wines that showcased the age worthiness of their production methods. I discussed their Cabernet Cortis 2017 in an earlier Grape Spotlight post and am impressed with its vibrant acidity elevating the layers of black forest fruit coated in dark chocolate. Plus the firm yet approachable tannins.  Their Riesling 2021 was extremely fresh and vibrant with ripe stone fruit and noticeable minerality. 

Grape Spotlight: Moravian (Slovácko) Cabernet Cortis Courtesy of Vinařství Spěvák

Cabernet Cortis is a dark-skinned grape variety developed in 1982 by breeder Norbert Becker at the State Wine Institute in Freiburg, Germany. It is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon (the mother vine) and Solaris (the father vine). Solaris, itself, is a complex hybrid involving Merzling, Zarya Severa, and Muskat Ottonel.  The grape variety was designed for cooler climates with the intention to combine vinifera character with improved disease resistance. The grape ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, maintains acidity in warm years, and delivers a flavor profile that leans toward blackcurrant, forest berries, herbal spice, and cocoa.

The grape has found a home in South Moravia, the Czech Republic's viticultural engine responsible for the majority of Czech wine production (96%) where the soil is a mosaic of loess, limestone, sand, and ancient seabed deposits. The region sits at the intersection of Pannonian warmth and Central European coolness, creating ideal conditions for aromatic whites and structured, cool‑climate reds. Cabernet Cortis thrives in the region’s warm summer days followed by cool autumn nights and offer growers reliable ripening without sacrificing character. 

Drilling into Moravia's subregions, the Slovácko sub-region lies in the south-east of Moravia, nestled between Austria and Slovakia, and is endowed with very diverse natural conditions. The southern part of Slovácko is taken up by the land of Podluží. Most of the wine villages lie along the Morava River which is cooled by north-westerly breezes. As a cool continental wine growing-region, it is located along the same latitude as Alsace in France, Baden in Germany or Weinviertel in Austria. 

"The micro-climate conditions within the close proximity of Dubnany are quite unique: the rolling hills (referred to as Moravian Toscany and sought after by acclaimed photographers) at a low altitude of no more than 200 meters [600 ft] above sea level, situated in the valley of Morava River, provide slope and aspect to the vineyards. The light black soils intensify the temperatures during hot and dry summers, moderated by the north-east winds, and help extend the growing season well into late October. Some vineyards are located atop a dead mud volcano, giving the terroir a mineral to ashy undertone. Others are abundant with heavy clay which helps with water retention during the hot summer months." -- Vinařství Spěvák

Located in Dubňany, Vinařství Spěvák is a family‑run estate known for expressive, fruit‑forward wines crafted using both classic Moravian varieties and a selection of modern crossings such as Cabernet Cortis. The winery originated behind the Iron Curtain as a family vineyard for Frantisek and Marie Spěvák while Frantisek worked as a head agronomist at a large co-op.  As a bonus, he was fortunate enough to study under Professor Vilem Kraus, an educator, expert and published author on viticulture at Mendel University in Brno. Following the Velvet Revolution (1989) and the legalization of private business establishment (1990), Vinařství Spěvák became fully licensed and official the same year as the dissolution of Czechoslovakia -- 1993. Over the next 20+ years, two sons David and Frantisek Jr., graduated from the Vocational Viniculture School in Valtice and returned to help manage the winery's operations. 

Spěvák operates several vineyards within Slovácko, most situated in the Lower Morava Valley, with a diverse planting of over 30 grape varieties. They have been growing Cabernet Cortis for quite awhile and leverage the  the grape’s natural structure: medium body, ripe tannins, and a flavor profile that moves from blackcurrant and forest berries to cocoa and subtle spice. Their bottlings age well, benefiting from both barrel and bottle maturation - an attribute the family winemakers themselves emphasize as central to their craft. Case in point the Moravian Red Cabernet Cortis 2017 should be a cult classic. It is very concentrated for a medium‑bodied wine with layers of black forest fruit coated in dark chocolate, and firm yet approachable tannins. Plus vibrant acidity. All in a wine that is almost a decade old. A fantastic offering. 

Spěvák wines are available through Wills International.

EU Open House Day at the Washington D.C. Embassies

On Saturday we quasi-floated down the Danube River by visiting four Central European embassies -- tasting through regional cuisine in conjunction with a plethora of surprising wine options. (Yes, Czechia technically doesn't border the river, but close enough.). We started at the Austrian Embassy with a cheese and cheery strudel breakfast before entering an hour long "Fine Wines from Austria" class on Austrian wine presented by Klaus Wittauer of KWSelection and hosted by Decanter Wine Boutique. We tasted nine curated wines from a non traditional Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé and Rotgipfler to the more traditional Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch-Saint Laurent-Zweigelt blend, and Pinot Noir. My favorite was the Steininger Ried Loisium Gruner Veltliner 2024 Kamptal DAC Reserve.

Unfortunately, next door at the Slovakian Embassy, the line to sample the available wines and mead were too long for a short time frame so we savored a smoked sausage then moved on to their geographic sibling Czechia. 

This embassy presented a full blown beer garden atmosphere with a live band, dancers, sausages and goulash, sweet and savory pastries, Pilsner Urquell, and wine. There were two sets of wine tasting, one from Wine of Czech Republic and the other by Spevak Winery. I plan on diving deeper into their terroir and grape varieties but on first glance it appears they share some similar grapes to neighboring Austria - such as Gruner, Blaufrankish, Pinot Noir - but have a deeper affinity towards Sauvignon Blanc as well as cultivars bred for the Bohemia and Moravia environments. These include Pálava (Gewürztraminer and Müller Thurgau), Cabernet Moravia (Cabernet Franc and Zweigelt), and Cabernet Cortis (Cabernet Sauvignon and Solaris -- a white wine grape variety originally bred in Germany in 1975). I was very impressed with the age-ability of Spevak's 2017 Cabernet Cortis - as it retained plenty acidity lifting the chocolate coated, black forest fruit. Expect much more to follow on the subject of Czech wine.

Our final stop was a stroll down hill towards Rock Creek Park and the Hungarian Embassy. They were presenting plenty of dancing, gypsy and classical music, more goulash, chicken paprikas, and a small but excellent assortment of Hungarian wine. We went straight to the Böjt Egri Bikavér and the accompanying white partner: Egri Csillag. The first is a masterful blend as required according to the Bikavér regulations and built on a backbone of Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch) -- 50%. This is followed with Pinot Noir (18%), Blauburger (18%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%), and Zweigelt (7%). The Böjt Egri Csillag is made based on the regulations requiring Carpathian-basin varieties. This wine is a blend of Olaszrizling (Welschriesling) (46%), Leányka (32%), Sauvignon Blanc (16%), and Muscat Ottonel (6%). Fantastic wines to sip watching the Vizslas run across the embassy grounds.