During another quick trip to Lafayette I was able to visit and tour two distilleries in the Gulf area of The Magnolia State: Crittenden Distillery and Circle Hook Distilling.
Crittenden Distillery is located in Kiln and produces mostly whiskey - bourbon and rye - with several expressions finished in various oak casks. I was fortunate to schedule this trip during their December open house and participated in a full distillery tour and tasting. During the tour, owner Matt Crittenden showed us their distilling process from the raw ingredients, to the mash tank and fermenting tanks, and the column still. After discussing the various fermenting temperatures and yeast features we moved out back to the rick house -- loaded with 53 gallon charred American white oak barrels.
Afterwards we returned to the tasting bar in which the distillery offered a generous sampling of practically their entire portfolio. This started with their flagships Cut Above Bottled in Bond Bourbon and Cut Above Bottled in Bond Rye Whiskey. Both were the first Bottled in Bond whiskies produced in Mississippi and are a little hot at 100 proof, but dampened down they are excellent examples within their respective categories. I didn't sample their the other flagship - Kiln Shine - but went to the various finished expressions. Crittenden sources a unique mixture of used casks from Scotland, Spain, Hungary, Brazil, and elsewhere. I had tasted the Sherry Finished Cut Above Bourbon in my previous visit and that is one of their best. I purchased a bottle of the Cut Above Bourbon Tokaji with it's hint of sweetness; but my favorite was easily the Cut Above Bourbon Tara - a four year old whiskey finished in Brazilian Amburana casks. Three bottles of bourbon should keep me satisfied until my next trip south.
Circle Hook Distilling is not open to the public but I was able to attend their first ever Open House. They are located just north of I-10 in Gulfport and produce rum from a mixture of cane syrup, cane sugar, and molasses sourced from Franklin, Louisiana. They also created a very small batch Agricole-Style Rum made from cane juice grown at an extension farm at Mississippi State University. And the distillery's name pays homage to the family's main occupation: Alaskan salmon fishers.
During this open house, owners Ely and Amy Underhill provided an overview of their operation through fermentation to distillation in the copper pot still; offered pure cane juice from freshly crushed sugar cane; and poured samples of their rum expressions. My favorites were the two standard offerings, the Circle Hook Silver Rum and Circle Hook Original Rum. They are bottled at 84 and 86 proof respectively and capture the essence of slow fermentation, micro-distillation runs, and the blending of two distillates - one molasses based and the other cane syrup based. The Silver provides way more body and character than your average unaged rum with subtle herbaceous notes. The Original is aged in smaller new American oak barrels, and like Crittenden, takes advantage of the Mississippi climate that helps impart plenty of baking spices into the rum. Yet, the beauty of this expression is that the oak influences are not overwhelming and the spices blend seamlessly into the cane character. A little heat encourages cocktail usage.
The distillery also offers smaller batch rums like the aforementioned Agricole-Style Rum which is made from pure cane juice and then aged in new American oak barrels for approximately two years in order to mute the funky truffle, grassy, and herbaceous notes. The Circle Hook Distiller's Reserve is the expression that caught my attention on social media since the product is a blend of rums derived from Circle Hook's new American oak barrels as well as from A Cut Above Bourbon barrel from Crittenden Distillery. The cask strength Reserve is naturally boubon-ish and the oak imparts plenty of character where the rum fights to be heard. For this reason, I preferred the Original, but it is most likely in the wheelhouse of cigar and whiskey lovers. The final expression I tasted was a soon to be released Coconut Rum made with real toasted coconuts. This will be very popular. Find this and their other rums from shops ranging from Baton Rouge to the panhandle.
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