The Essence of the Olive: Spain's Great Match

For The Essence of the Olive series, it's time to dip into Spanish olive oil. A couple years ago I attended the Spain's Great Match -- a celebration of Spanish wine, spirits, and gastronomy. This event included a deep dive into Spanish Extra Virgin Olive Oil through a trio of producers which included a brief history lesson. 

Spanish olive oil has long been one of the quiet cornerstones of Mediterranean agriculture, shaped by geography, climate, and centuries of cultivation. Olive trees arrived on the Iberian Peninsula through Phoenician and Greek traders, and the Romans later expanded groves across what is now Andalusia, Extremadura, and Catalonia. Over time, Spain’s varied landscapes—ranging from the dry plains of La Mancha to the coastal hills of Tarragona—allowed different olive varieties to take root, each contributing to the country’s diverse oil‑making traditions. Today, Spain is the world’s largest producer of olive oil, but its identity is built less on volume and more on the regional character that defines each harvest.

The country’s olive varieties are central to this diversity. Picual, the most widely planted, is known for its robustness, high polyphenol content, and a flavor profile that leans toward green tomato and fresh herbs. Arbequina, common in Catalonia and Aragón, produces a softer, fruitier oil with notes of almond and ripe apple. Hojiblanca, grown mainly in Andalusia, offers a balanced oil with a gentle bitterness and a hint of sweetness. Cornicabra, native to central Spain, yields an oil with a distinctive peppery finish. Together, these cultivars form the backbone of Spanish olive oil production, each suited to different culinary uses and regional preferences.

Within this broad landscape, some producers focus on preserving ancient agricultural heritage. Aceite Oleomile is one such example, working with protected millennial olive trees of the Farga variety—trees estimated to be between 500 and 2000 years old. These groves, primarily found in the Maestrazgo region of eastern Spain, represent a living link to early Mediterranean cultivation. The oil produced from Farga olives is typically delicate yet complex, with subtle fruit notes and a refined finish that reflects the slow, steady growth of trees that have witnessed centuries of human history. Oleomile’s work highlights not only the cultural value of these ancient trees but also the importance of maintaining traditional landscapes in a modern agricultural economy.

Verde Esmeralda is a Spanish producer known for crafting premium extra‑virgin olive oils with a strong sense of regional identity and careful attention to detail. The company began in the province of Jaén, the heartland of Spanish olive cultivation, where generations of growers have shaped the landscape around Picual and other traditional varieties. Verde Esmeralda built its reputation by combining this heritage with a modern, design‑driven approach to presentation and small‑batch production. Their oils are primarily made from Picual olives, celebrated for their intensity, high antioxidant content, and characteristic notes of tomato leaf and green fruit. In some limited editions, they also work with Royal olives, a native variety of Jaén that produces a softer, more aromatic oil with floral undertones. Together, these cultivars allow Verde Esmeralda to offer oils that reflect both the strength of Andalusian tradition and the refinement of contemporary artisanal milling.

Pago de Valdecuevas is a family‑run producer based in the Montes Torozos area of Castilla y León, a region where olive cultivation has been revived after centuries of decline due to climate and historical shifts in agriculture. The project began when the Martín family decided to restore traditional groves and invest in a modern mill, combining the area’s long‑standing connection to the land with contemporary extraction techniques. Their oils are primarily made from Arbequina olives, a variety well suited to the cooler inland climate and known for producing smooth, aromatic oils with notes of green fruit and almond. In smaller quantities, they also work with Picual, which adds structure and a more robust, peppery character. Together, these varieties allow Pago de Valdecuevas to offer balanced, high‑quality extra‑virgin olive oils that reflect both the terroir of northern Spain and the family’s commitment to careful, sustainable production.

Spanish olive oil continues to evolve, balancing innovation with respect for its deep roots. Whether through large‑scale cooperatives, small family mills, or specialized producers working with ancient trees, the country’s oils reflect a long tradition shaped by climate, culture, and careful stewardship of the land.