Spirits for the World Cup Finals: July 19, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup matches.  Today’s final match: Spain vs Argentina.

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Spain vs Argentina

Carajillo  (Spain)
One of the Spanish watch parties in Washington D.C. is being held at the world class Casa Teresa restaurant and one of the cocktails they will be offering during the match is the Carajillo. This is usually an espresso based cocktail with equal parts Licor 43. However, the bartenders at Casa Teresa  have created a D.C. themed alternative using Licor 43, locally made Cotton & Reed PX Rum, and coffee liqueur. Since I actually have these ingredients I decided to replicate with a couple minor adjustments - specifically using honey syrup and chocolate bitters as a replacement for the carob syrup.

Licor 43 is a semi-sweet golden liqueur comprised of 43 botanicals that was featured in the Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: July 10, 2026. At the heart of Licor 43 is its blend of 43 botanicals: bright citrus peels, vanilla, warm spices, and Mediterranean herbs that create its signature aromatic profile. Vanilla leads the nose, but orange blossom, cinnamon, and herbal notes add depth. 

Cotton & Reed is Washington, D.C.’s first dedicated rum distillery that produces small‑batch rum using long fermentations from a blend of Louisiana and Brazilian molasses and using a hybrid pot‑and‑column still. Their PX Rum builds on this foundation: distilled from first‑press and blackstrap molasses, aged for over 18 months in new American oak for vanilla, caramel, and toasted wood notes, then finished in Pedro Ximénez sherry–seasoned casks that contribute dried‑fruit tones like figs and dates. 

McClintock Distilling’s Mayorga Coffee Liqueur is the result of a collaboration between the Frederick, Maryland distillery and Mayorga Organics. McClintock builds the liqueur on a neutral organic spirit, then infuses it with Mayorga’s roasted beans using a cold‑brew extraction that preserves the coffee’s natural chocolate, caramel, and roasted‑nut character without introducing bitterness. A touch of organic cane sugar rounds the edges.

The modified Carajillo cocktail:

• 2 oz Cotton & Reed PX Rum
• 1.5 oz Licor 43
• 1 oz McClintock Mayorga Coffee Liqueur
• .5 oz carob syrup or honey syrup and 3 dashes Scrappys chocolate bitters
• Bay Leaf Espuma 

Shake all ingredients with ice, then strain into a cocktail glass.  Garnish: Finish with Bay Leaf Espuma.

Lunfardo (Argentina)
I'm sticking with Fernet Branca for the finals and this time creating a truly Argentinian cocktail using Argentina’s signature wine: Malbec. The is the working class favorite, Lunfardo, basically Fernet and Malbec. This combination balances the bitter, herbal notes of the Fernet with the fruity depth of the Malbec. I chose the Trivento Reserve Malbec 2024 primarily for its accessibility. 

Trivento’s Argentina Reserve Malbec 2024 reflects the winery’s focus on accessible, fruit‑forward Mendoza reds shaped by high‑altitude vineyards and consistent sunlight. The wine leans into the hallmarks of modern Argentine Malbec: ripe blackberries, plum, and soft blueberry notes supported by gentle oak that adds vanilla and a touch of spice without weighing down the palate. Trivento uses a mix of estate and grower fruit from Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, regions known for producing balanced, approachable Malbec with smooth tannins and a clean finish. 

As a recap, Fernet Branca is made from a grape‑distillate base infused with 27 botanicals sourced from four continents, including saffron, gentian, aloe ferox, chamomile, myrrh, and mint. These ingredients are macerated and matured in large Slavonian oak casks, where extended resting integrates the herbal components and softens the bitterness. Production relies on long extraction times and slow barrel aging, creating a profile defined by strong herbal intensity, cooling mint, and deep earthy notes. Visit Spirits for the World Cup Semifinals: July 15, 2026 for a longer description. 

The Lunfardo cocktail:

• 1 ½ oz Fernet
• 2 oz Malbec wine
• ¾ oz Classic Gum Syrup - Honey Syrup as an alternative

Shake all ingredients with ice, then strain into a cocktail glass.  Garnish: Finish with a lemon twist

Spirits for the World Cup Semifinals: July 14, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup matches.  Today's match for July 11th:

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France vs Spain

Courvoisier VS Cognac  (France)
I would guess that most people have or have access to Courvoisier VS -- an intentionally  mass‑market, fruit‑forward Cognac designed for accessibility and mixability rather than depth or long aging.  As a refresher, Cognac is divided into VS, VSOP, and XO categories, each defined by minimum aging requirements, with VS representing the youngest and most straightforward style.  

For the VS, Maison Courvoisier sources heavily from the contrasting Fins Bois and Borderies crus. Fins Bois, the largest of the crus, is located in the outer ring surrounding the central Cognac region and is known for producing round, aromatic eaux‑de‑vie with fresh orchard‑fruit character. Borderies, the smallest cru just north of the Charente River, has a reputation for floral, slightly honeyed distillates that mature quickly. Together they create a profile centered on apple, pear, soft florals, and light vanilla rather than the heavier oak or spice often associated with competitors like Hennessy or Rémy Martin. 

The production approach reinforces this fruit‑first identity. Fins Bois distillates contribute immediacy and gentle sweetness, while Borderies adds violets and a smooth, rounded texture. Courvoisier VS is aged briefly to preserve freshness rather than build oak weight. The influence of wood remains light: subtle vanilla, mild spice, and a clean structure that keeps the spirit approachable. On the palate, Courvoisier VS shows orchard fruit, vanilla, and soft floral notes with minimal tannin or oak density. The finish is short and clean, making it well suited for cocktails where Cognac provides warmth without dominating the other ingredients.

French Twist Cocktail

Ingredients

• 1 ¾ parts Courvoisier VS
• ½ part Lyon Orange Curaçao
• ½ part fresh lemon juice
• 3 parts Fever-Tree® club soda

To prepare, build all ingredients except soda water into the shaker and add ice. Shake and strain over fresh cobbled or crushed ice into a Double Old Fashioned glass. Top with soda water then garnish with a lemon twist

Casals Vermouth (Spain)
I first met the folks at Familia Torres at a Spain's Great Match tasting that was hosted by Foods and Wine from Spain. At the end of the event, I remember sitting on a patio sipping a chilled glass of their Casals Vermouth. And this World Cup semifinal match provides a chance to revisit this vibrant and approachable red vermouth.

The Torres family has produced wine in Penedès (Catalonia) since the 19th century, and Casals reflects their broader philosophy of pairing regional grape varieties with Mediterranean botanicals.  According to the winery, "the name Casals pays tribute to the family’s second surname, symbolizing the continuation of the legacy of those who first created vermouth. In Catalan, 'Casals' also refers to a place where family and friends gather, or a home that has welcomed many generations."

The base wine comes from Roussane, Marsanne,  and Chenin Blanc, as well as other native Spanish varieties like Parellada and the ancestral variety Selma. The base is then blended with white wine that has been aged for three years in oak barrels.  This method gives the vermouth a natural full bodied fruit core before any botanicals are added. 

What are ancestral varieties? Over 40 years ago, Familia Torres launched a remarkable and exciting project to research and recover ancestral grape varieties, namely, varieties that were thought to have gone extinct following the phylloxera plague in the late 19th century. Since the project began, more than 50 varieties have been rediscovered, six of which have a great winemaking potential. The blend for Casals Vermouth includes one of these, called Selma.

The botanical blend centers on twenty botanicals -- which include orange and mandarin peels, olive leaves, cinnamon, cardamom, clove, thyme, rosemary, lily root and wormwood -- creating a profile that is aromatic without becoming heavy. Casals uses a maceration approach that preserves clarity in the base wine, allowing the botanicals to support rather than dominate. The result is a vermouth with red‑fruit tones, orange peel, light herbal bitterness, and a clean mid‑palate. Its structure is intentionally moderate: enough sweetness to round the edges, enough bitterness to keep the finish focused, and enough aromatics to make the wine expressive without leaning into intensity.

Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: July 10, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup Knockout Round matches.  Today's match for July 10th:

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Spain vs Belgium

Licor 43 (Spain)
For Spain's next match and out of original options within the homebar, I broke precident and visited my local ABC store to purchase the classic, Licor 43. Spain’s golden liqueur—Cuarenta y Tres—is deeply tied to Cartagena, the Mediterranean port city whose layers of Roman, Carthaginian, and Moorish history shape its identity. Although the modern brand dates to 1946, its inspiration reaches back to a spiced Roman elixir known as Liquor Mirabilis, giving the liqueur a cultural lineage that feels distinctly Spanish.

At the heart of Licor 43 is its blend of 43 botanicals: bright citrus peels, vanilla, warm spices, and Mediterranean herbs that create its signature aromatic profile. Vanilla leads the nose, but orange blossom, cinnamon, and herbal notes add depth. The palate is silky and sweet, finishing with a gentle citrus‑vanilla lift that makes the liqueur both approachable and surprisingly adaptable.

Licor 43’s modern production began in 1946, when Diego Zamora, along with his siblings Ángel and Josefa, established a small family operation in Cartagena to commercialize a refined version of the historic local recipe. The  business expanded steadily through the mid‑20th century, moving from regional distribution to national and eventually international markets. The Zamora family continued to oversee development, branding, and production as the company grew, and Licor 43 remains part of the broader Zamora Company, still guided by later generations.

One cocktail recipe the company suggests is the straightforward Licor 43 with Lemon (2 parts spirit to 1 part citrus) over ice.  I recommend  perhaps 1.5 parts citrus.

🍒 The Rodenbach Red Lace (Belgium)
I still can't get my hands on a Jenever, so I turned to an old favorite, Rodenbach Sour Ale. Rodenbach’s story begins in 1821, when Pedro Rodenbach and his family founded the brewery in Roeselare, thus establishing what would become one of Belgium’s most influential producers of mixed‑fermentation ales. Over the 19th century, the Rodenbachs refined a unique approach to brewing that relied on long maturation in massive oak foeders, allowing lactic acidity, red‑fruit character, and gentle oxidative notes to develop naturally. By the early 20th century, Rodenbach had become synonymous with Flemish red ale, preserving a regional style that might otherwise have disappeared. Today the brewery continues to operate with its historic foeder hall, maintaining techniques that link modern production directly to its 19th‑century origins.

Rodenbach Classic is the brewery’s benchmark expression -- a blend of young beer and beer aged up to two years in oak. This combination creates the signature balance of bright cherry‑red acidity, soft tannin, mild funk, and subtle wood. Classic is intentionally approachable: tart but not aggressive, fruity without sweetness, and structured enough to showcase the foeder influence. It remains one of Belgium’s most recognizable sour ales and a reference point for brewers worldwide exploring mixed fermentation.

Now, to keep within the spirits framework, we will be sipping the Rodenbach Red Lace cocktail. The concept behind the Red Lace is for the Rodenbach to bring red‑fruit acidity, lactic tang, and subtle oak. A dry base spirit adds structure without overshadowing the ale, citrus provides lift, and a small bitter accent ties the fruit and grain together. 

For the gin, once again we are continuing our celebration of 250 Independence Days with the Virginia 250th Anniversary Gin from the Virginia: Birthplace of American Spirits Collection. This botanic gin was crafted by Peter Ahlf and Kimberly Nuckols of Mt. Defiance Cidery & Distillery with blending support from Barry Haneberg of Virago Spirits and Peter Morgner of Vitae Spirits. It draws on a London Dry structure featuring Italian juniper, angelica, coriander, orris root, and lemon peel layered with Virginia botanicals such as pawpaw, rose, sassafras, and sumac to evoke the aromatic character of the state’s mountain landscapes. 

The Rodenbach Red Lace

Formula 

• 1.25 oz dry gin or light rum
• 0.5 oz fresh lemon juice
• 0.25 oz simple syrup (optional; depends on the batch of Rodenbach)
• 1 dash aromatic bitters
• Top with Rodenbach Flemish Sour Ale
• Optional: thin orange peel or cherry

Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: July 6, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup Knockout Round matches.  Today's matches for July 6th:

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Portugal vs Spain

Adega Velha 6 Years Old Reserva Brandy
Adega Velha 6 Years Old Reserva Brandy is produced in the far northwestern DOC of Vinho Verde from a mix of indigenous grapes including Vinhão, Azal Tinto, Barraçal, and Espadeiro. The fruit comes from Quinta da Aveleda, where granite and sandy‑loam soils shape the base wine. Located in the hilly Sousa sub‑region, the site benefits from a Mediterranean climate moderated by Atlantic influence. Aveleda itself was founded in 1870 and remains family‑run into its fifth generation, known today as the largest producer and exporter of Vinho Verde.

The wine is distilled in an alembic Charentais still, the same style used in Cognac and in other traditional brandy regions. After distillation, the spirit is aged six years in Limousin oak casks. Limousin’s wide‑grained wood contributes more tannin than tight‑grained barrels, giving the brandy additional structure while still allowing slow oxidative development. This combination of local grapes, classic distillation, and Cognac‑style maturation defines Adega Velha’s production approach.

Despite the tannic influence of Limousin oak, the brandy shows a soft and balanced profile. The nose carries floral and woody notes with a fresh nutty, honeyed core. The palate remains smooth, and the finish is long with minimal burn.

Sagamore Spirit Amontillado Cask Finish (Spanish Themed)
I’ve previously written about the only Spanish brandy on my bar, so for today’s match I’m turning to a Spanish‑themed spirit: Sagamore Spirit’s Amontillado Cask Finish. The whiskey begins with rye sourced from MGP in Indiana, built on a high‑rye mash bill before being blended and finished in MD. After initial aging in new charred American oak, the whiskey is transferred into rare second‑use Amontillado sherry casks. These barrels are increasingly difficult to obtain: Amontillado production is limited, long‑aged casks are tightly held by bodegas, and export of used barrels has declined as sherry houses repurpose them internally. 

Amontillado sherry itself sits between Fino and Oloroso styles, beginning under flor before aging oxidatively. This dual process creates a profile of toasted nuts, dried citrus, subtle salinity, and gentle oxidative depth. When used as finishing barrels, Amontillado casks contribute structure rather than overt sweetness, adding layers of nuttiness, dried fruit, and restrained oak. Sagamore Spirit uses these casks to highlight rye’s spice while adding mid‑palate richness and a more rounded finish.

The finished whiskey shows this rye spice plus dried citrus, almond, and light oxidative warmth from the cask. The palate is a little hot, but balances grain structure with sherry‑driven richness, and the finish is dry, nutty, and persistent. Finally, Sagamore’s bottle remains one of the most recognizable in American rye -- tall, angular, and faceted -- and inspired by the three-diamond racing emblem of the Alfred G. Vanderbilt family, who once owned the historic horse-racing farm in Baltimore County that the distillery is named after.

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USA vs Belgium

Dad’s Hat Pre‑Prohibition Style Pennsylvania Straight Rye Whiskey (USA)
For this match, I wanted to re-open a Pennsylvania spirit in order to continue the celebration of our 250th Independence Day as well as the Philadelphia and Monongahela regions. These are all encapsulated in Dad’s Hat Pre‑Prohibition Style Pennsylvania Straight Rye Whiskey. The rye whiskey is built on regional traditions that once made Pennsylvania the center of American rye production. Before bourbon, rye from Pennsylvania’s Monongahela region was widely known for its grain‑forward intensity and long aging in charred oak. The state’s rye industry was so significant that it became a flashpoint in early American history: when the federal government imposed a tax on distilled spirits in 1791, Pennsylvania rye producers were among the most vocal opponents, leading to the Whiskey Rebellion — one of the first major tests of federal authority in the new republic.

Dad’s Hat revives this heritage with a production approach rooted in pre‑Prohibition methods. The whiskey is made from a mash bill centered on Pennsylvania‑grown rye, fermented and distilled in small batches, then matured in charred new oak barrels. The "Pre‑Prohibition Style" designation reflects a focus on traditional grain character, moderate barrel influence, and a profile shaped more by rye spice than by heavy sweetness. Aging takes place in a combination of full‑size barrels and smaller casks, allowing the distillery to balance structure, freshness, and early aromatic development.

The whiskey shows classic Pennsylvania rye traits: bright grain, baking spice, and light herbal notes on the nose. The palate is firm and expressive, with rye spice, caramelized grain, pepper, citrus peel, and subtle oak. The finish is clean and persistent, carrying spice and gentle warmth. 

Belgium
Jenever (also known as genever or genièvre) is the national distilled spirit of Belgium.  It is distilled from a base of malt wine (fermented from malted barley, rye, and sometimes corn), giving it a fuller, maltier profile than standard gin.  And in 2008, Jenever has held a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status within the EU, recognizing its origins in the Netherlands and Belgium.

Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: July 2, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup Knockout Round matches.  Today's matches for July 2nd. 

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Spain vs Austria

González Byass Lepanto Brandy de Jerez (Spain)
González Byass is best known for its Sherry houses, but the family has also produced one of Spain’s leading brandies for over a century: Lepanto Brandy de Jerez, the only Brandy de Jerez distilled entirely within Jerez. Founded in 1835, the company built its reputation on careful cask management, and that same focus on wood, oxidation, and solera aging defines Lepanto.

The brandy is made from 100% Palomino grapes, the same variety used for Fino and Amontillado. After fermentation, the wine is distilled in Charentais‑style pot stills, creating a delicate, fruit‑forward spirit with subtle salinity. Aging follows a tiered solera system: first in ex‑Fino casks for brightness, then in ex‑Oloroso barrels for depth and dried‑fruit character. The Lepanto PX expression finishes in Pedro Ximénez casks, where raisin‑rich sweetness and velvety texture shape its final profile. The solera’s continuous blending preserves house character while allowing gradual evolution.

Lepanto shows orange blossom, toasted almond, dried fig, and gentle oak on the nose. The palate is elegant and concentrated, with caramelized citrus, honeyed raisin, walnut, vanilla, and a touch of Sherry rancio linking it back to Jerez. The finish is long and warm, with cocoa, spice, and polished wood. 

Rothman & Winter Crème de Violette (Austria)
This Floral Liqueur is produced in Austria by the Purkhart Distillery, a family operation specializing in eaux‑de‑vie and liqueurs since 1932 . The liqueur is made from Queen Charlotte and March violets grown in the Alps, whose petals are macerated to extract both aroma and natural color. This approach reflects a traditional European style of floral liqueur production, emphasizing botanical authenticity rather than added flavorings or artificial coloring.

The base is a robust brandy (Weinbrand), which provides structure for the delicate violet infusion. The macerated petals are blended with neutral spirit and natural cane sugar, resulting in a lightly sweet, higher‑proof liqueur designed for versatility in cocktails. Rothman & Winter bottles Crème de Violette at 20% ABV, maintaining a balance between floral intensity and mixability. Its production method aims for clarity of flavor: pure violet notes without vanilla, fruit, or heavy sweetness.

The profile shows fresh violet blossoms, subtle herbal tones, and a smooth, lightly sweet palate with hints of candied violet and citrus zest. It is best known as an essential ingredient in classic cocktails such as the Aviation and Blue Moon, where it contributes both color and floral lift. It also pairs well with sparkling wine or soda, adding a gentle botanical dimension without overwhelming other ingredients.

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Portugal vs Croatia

Ginjinha Sem Rival Licor (Portugal)
Ginja is one of Portugal’s most familiar household liqueurs — a sour‑cherry spirit commonly kept in kitchens, dining rooms, and small cafés. Families serve it after meals or to visiting guests, and many towns maintain a strong homemade tradition. Jars of cherries macerating in alcohol often sit on windowsills, and it’s not unusual to see handwritten signs offering a small tasting for a modest fee. These versions vary in sweetness and strength, but they share the same basic method: whole ginja cherries, neutral spirit, and sugar.

Ginjinha Sem Rival is a long‑standing Lisbon producer working within this traditional framework. The brand uses whole cherries macerated in neutral spirit, creating a straightforward liqueur with bright cherry acidity, gentle sweetness, and a light almond‑like note from the pits. The recipe aligns closely with the homemade approach found throughout the country, which is part of why Sem Rival is so widely recognized. It’s a dependable, accessible bottling that reflects the classic flavor profile many Portuguese households expect.

Sem Rival’s role is practical rather than innovative. It provides a consistent expression of ginja for homes, neighborhood cafés, and small restaurants, sitting alongside the homemade jars that remain part of local culture. In a country where ginja is both a commercial product and a domestic tradition, Sem Rival represents the producer side of a category still deeply rooted in everyday Portuguese life.

Brigljević Distillery Dark Forest Pomace Brandy - 8 Years (Croatia)
It’s astonishing how many of Croatia’s most compelling spirits come from small, family‑run distilleries rather than large heritage houses — and Brigljević Distillery is a perfect example. Founded in 2002 in the forested hills of central Croatia, Brigljević built its reputation on meticulous craft distillation and a deep respect for traditional komovica (pomace brandy). 

The brandy begins with fresh grape pomace sourced from Croatian vineyards, fermented slowly to preserve aromatic intensity and the natural fruit‑skin character that defines great Komovica (traditional pomace brandy - aka rakija). Distillation takes place in small copper pot stills, yielding a concentrated, textural spirit with both fruit purity and earthy depth. Maturation is where Dark Forest earns its name — the brandy spends eight full years aging in oak barrels housed in Brigljević’s cellars, where cooler temperatures, high humidity, and seasonal shifts create a uniquely gentle oxidative environment. 

Dark Forest opens with dried plum, wild berry, forest floor, and warm spice on the nose. The palate is structured yet elegant: black cherry, cocoa, toasted oak, resinous herbs, and subtle vanilla, all wrapped in the earthy depth that only long‑aged pomace brandy can deliver. The finish is long, warming, and woodland‑inflected, with lingering dark fruit, cedar, and gentle tannin. In my view, Brigljević’s Dark Forest stands as one of the most expressive modern Komovica bottlings — a spirit that captures the terroir of Croatia’s forests and vineyards.

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Switzerland vs Algeria

Switzerland 
Kirsch (also known as Kirschwasser or cherry brandy) is widely considered the most typical and popular distilled spirit in Switzerland.  It is a clear, potent eau-de-vie made from distilling fermented cherries, with the region around Zug and Lake Lucerne being particularly renowned for its high-quality production. 

Algeria
There is no single dominant national distilled spirit in Algeria; rather, the market is characterized by beer as the most consumed alcoholic beverage, followed by wine. When distilled spirits are consumed, they are typically local, traditional, or homemade varieties rather than a single major commercial brand. Key traditional spirits include:

• Mahia: A potent, earthy spirit made from dates or figs, often served in small shots.
• Boukha: A strong, sweet, and fruity fig brandy, which is typically homemade or locally bottled. 
• Arak: A strong anise-flavored spirit traditionally diluted with water and ice.

Grape Spotlight: Peña Garnacha and the Calatayud DO

Calatayud is a high‑altitude appellation in Aragón in northeastern Spain, set among rugged hills and river valleys shaped by the Jalón and Jiloca rivers. Vineyards here sit between 650 and 900 meters (2,100–3,000 feet), making it one of Spain’s highest red‑wine regions. The climate is continental—hot, dry summers; cold winters; and wide day‑night temperature swings that help preserve acidity. Much of the terrain is a patchwork of slate, schist, and iron‑rich clay, soils that stress the vines just enough to concentrate flavor. Although winegrowing in the area dates back to Roman times, Calatayud’s modern revival has centered on reclaiming old bush‑trained vineyards and spotlighting Garnacha as the region’s signature grape.

Garnacha thrives in this environment. The grape ripens late and handles heat and drought well, but in Calatayud the altitude adds freshness and structure. Many of the vines are 40–100 years old, low‑yielding plants with deep roots and naturally small clusters. Wines from these vineyards tend to be deeply colored, with red and black fruit, herbal notes, and a firm mineral line from the stony soils. The combination of elevation and old vines gives Garnacha from Calatayud a balance that’s harder to achieve in warmer, lower‑lying areas.

Peña -- crafted by Master of Wine Norrel Robertson -- is one of the labels that captures this style cleanly. The wine is sourced from older bush vines planted on rocky slopes, where the soils are thin and the yields modest. In the glass, Peña Garnacha (aka "Garnacha Club") is medium‑bodied with ripe red fruit—cherry, raspberry, and a touch of plum—supported by subtle spice and a faint earthiness. The acidity is bright, a hallmark of the region’s elevation, and the tannins are gentle but present. It’s a straightforward, honest expression of Calatayud: fruit‑driven, lifted, and shaped by the landscape rather than heavy winemaking.

The Essence of the Olive: Spain's Great Match

For The Essence of the Olive series, it's time to dip into Spanish olive oil. A couple years ago I attended the Spain's Great Match -- a celebration of Spanish wine, spirits, and gastronomy. This event included a deep dive into Spanish Extra Virgin Olive Oil through a trio of producers which included a brief history lesson. 

Spanish olive oil has long been one of the quiet cornerstones of Mediterranean agriculture, shaped by geography, climate, and centuries of cultivation. Olive trees arrived on the Iberian Peninsula through Phoenician and Greek traders, and the Romans later expanded groves across what is now Andalusia, Extremadura, and Catalonia. Over time, Spain’s varied landscapes—ranging from the dry plains of La Mancha to the coastal hills of Tarragona—allowed different olive varieties to take root, each contributing to the country’s diverse oil‑making traditions. Today, Spain is the world’s largest producer of olive oil, but its identity is built less on volume and more on the regional character that defines each harvest.

The country’s olive varieties are central to this diversity. Picual, the most widely planted, is known for its robustness, high polyphenol content, and a flavor profile that leans toward green tomato and fresh herbs. Arbequina, common in Catalonia and Aragón, produces a softer, fruitier oil with notes of almond and ripe apple. Hojiblanca, grown mainly in Andalusia, offers a balanced oil with a gentle bitterness and a hint of sweetness. Cornicabra, native to central Spain, yields an oil with a distinctive peppery finish. Together, these cultivars form the backbone of Spanish olive oil production, each suited to different culinary uses and regional preferences.

Within this broad landscape, some producers focus on preserving ancient agricultural heritage. Aceite Oleomile is one such example, working with protected millennial olive trees of the Farga variety—trees estimated to be between 500 and 2000 years old. These groves, primarily found in the Maestrazgo region of eastern Spain, represent a living link to early Mediterranean cultivation. The oil produced from Farga olives is typically delicate yet complex, with subtle fruit notes and a refined finish that reflects the slow, steady growth of trees that have witnessed centuries of human history. Oleomile’s work highlights not only the cultural value of these ancient trees but also the importance of maintaining traditional landscapes in a modern agricultural economy.

Verde Esmeralda is a Spanish producer known for crafting premium extra‑virgin olive oils with a strong sense of regional identity and careful attention to detail. The company began in the province of Jaén, the heartland of Spanish olive cultivation, where generations of growers have shaped the landscape around Picual and other traditional varieties. Verde Esmeralda built its reputation by combining this heritage with a modern, design‑driven approach to presentation and small‑batch production. Their oils are primarily made from Picual olives, celebrated for their intensity, high antioxidant content, and characteristic notes of tomato leaf and green fruit. In some limited editions, they also work with Royal olives, a native variety of Jaén that produces a softer, more aromatic oil with floral undertones. Together, these cultivars allow Verde Esmeralda to offer oils that reflect both the strength of Andalusian tradition and the refinement of contemporary artisanal milling.

Pago de Valdecuevas is a family‑run producer based in the Montes Torozos area of Castilla y León, a region where olive cultivation has been revived after centuries of decline due to climate and historical shifts in agriculture. The project began when the Martín family decided to restore traditional groves and invest in a modern mill, combining the area’s long‑standing connection to the land with contemporary extraction techniques. Their oils are primarily made from Arbequina olives, a variety well suited to the cooler inland climate and known for producing smooth, aromatic oils with notes of green fruit and almond. In smaller quantities, they also work with Picual, which adds structure and a more robust, peppery character. Together, these varieties allow Pago de Valdecuevas to offer balanced, high‑quality extra‑virgin olive oils that reflect both the terroir of northern Spain and the family’s commitment to careful, sustainable production.

Spanish olive oil continues to evolve, balancing innovation with respect for its deep roots. Whether through large‑scale cooperatives, small family mills, or specialized producers working with ancient trees, the country’s oils reflect a long tradition shaped by climate, culture, and careful stewardship of the land.

Grape Spotlight: Castilla y León D.O. Bierzo Mencia

Mencia is to D.O. Bierzo what the Prieto Picudo and Albarin grapes are to D.O. León. A subregion within Castilla y León primarily dedicated to an historic and signature grape. 

Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.

In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the  maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.

Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.

D.O. Bierzo lies in the far northwest of Castilla y Leon close to the region's borders with Galicia.  The viticultural area consists of two parts: Bierzo Alto (high Bierzo), a mineral-rich and mountainous terrain where terraced vineyards are sewn into the slopes, and Bierzo Bajo (low Bierzo), a wide and verdant plain. Bierzo's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean has a profound effect on its overall climate, with average temperatures during the growing season much cooler than in Castilla y Leon's more inland areas, making it rather mild. Nevertheless, the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range in the north provides the vineyards with adequate shelter. This ensures that the Mencia grapes achieve optimum ripeness. 

Bierzo's soil is different from that found in other parts of Castilla y Leon in that it contains a predominance of slate and granite. This favors the Mencia vines and helps them to produce wines with a distinct mineral character. The wines tend to be lighter in terms of alcohol and more refreshing than those from other parts of Castilla y León.

Mencia is a thick-skinned, violet-blue grape that was once thought to be related to Cabernet Franc. Modern DNA testing has disproved this theory, however, but has uncovered that it is genetically identical to Portugal's Jaen." It's its origin Bierzo or Dão?

"Mencia wines tend to exhibit earthy, vegetal characters with berry nuances and stony minerality. They have a bright complexion with a vivid maroon color, relatively fresh acidity and tannins. The fruit flavors can range from red to black fruits, often with a herbal dimension of mint or thyme. The variety can be challenging in the vineyard, and has a tendency towards low yields, making it a challenging prospect for growers and winemakers. It is susceptible to botrytis and mildew, and can lose its acidity quickly if not harvested promptly. Mencia's high alcohol and moderate acidity provide something of a juggling act at harvest and in the winery. Oak is used sparingly, as it can overwhelm Mencia's rather delicate flavor profile."

At the Castilla y León Roadshow, I sampled several Mencia wines from two producers who focus almost exclusively on this grape. Elva Garcia Amigo was onsite representing her winery -- Aníbal de Otero (Daughter of Anibal) -- named in honor of her father.  Aníbal and his father tended their Mencia vines which  are now more than 100 years old. The process is overseen by oenologist José Hidalgo where the grapes are hand harvested in small batches, fermented in stainless steel and aged at various lengths in French oak.  In the vineyard they practice sustainable practices where aromatic plants, wild oregano, thyme, and chamomile grow wild as cover crops. 

Anibal de Otero Mencía, D.O. Bierzo 2022 
Made exclusively with Mencía grapes from bush-ripened vines with an average age of over 90 years. Located near the village of Otero de Toral, on a steep, high altitude of 500-600 meters with clay, sand, slate, and pebbles. The grapes are naturally fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged three months in used 225-liter French oak barrels, then 8-10 months in stainless steel tanks before bottling, and bottle ageing for at least 6 months.  This is a fresh and pleasant Mencia with abundant red fruit and juicy acidity. 

Anibal de Otero Villa, D.O. Bierzo 2018
The grapes are from the same 90+ year old vines as the Anibal de Otero Mencía but the best grapes are separated and used for the Villa. Similar fermentation process, but longer aging with six months in used 225-liter French oak barrels and at least 18 months in the bottle. More velvety texture surrounds the red fruit and balanced tannins leading to bright acids. 

Anibal de Otero Los Fornos, D.O. Bierzo 2016
The grapes are harvested from very small plots in the exclusive Los Fornos area. The vineyard is south-facing, on a slope overlooking the valley where the Burbia and Cúa rivers meet the Sil where the soils are dominated by limestone and slate.  The wine follows a similar fermentation process but the aging is extensive. It involves 18 months in new and used 225-liter French oak barrels then bottle aged for at least 36 months. This a complex and wonderful wine - darker fruit, more approachable tannins, and tasty earthiness. 

Cantariña Vinos de Familia is another small winery started by five siblings cultivating 13 Ha of 100 year old family vineyards divided among three different sites in their Villafranca del Bierzo hometown.  The first is Viña de Los Pinos, one of the most iconic and photographed vineyards in Bierzo. It sits by the Camino de la Virgen, a narrow dirt path transited by thousands of Pilgrims each year on their way to Santiago de Compostela. The second and older site is Valdeobispo and the third and newest site is Cotelo, where parts had been abandoned for 20 years. Valdeobispo was first planted in 1910 and considered one of the grand crús in Bierzo. The soils are clay and sand with limestone and rolling stones. 

Cantariña Villafranca, D.O. Bierzo 2022
This wine is practically 100% Mencia with trace amounts of Palomino, Doña Blanca and Godello in a field blend from the  Viña de Los Pinos and Valdeobispo sites. The grapes are naturally fermented in 5000 liter oak vats with partial use of whole cluster.  The wine is then aged in oak vats and used 225 and 500 liter French oak barrels. Fresh red fruit characterizes this wine with subtle spice and earthiness. 

Cantariña Valdeobispo, D.O. Bierzo 2021
This is 100% Mencia from the the iconic and organic Valdeobispo site. The grapes are fermented in an 50 HL oak vat, whole clustered, the aged 12 months in used 225 and 500 liter French oak casks. This wine has an astonishing vibrant mouthfeel, lively tannins and acidity distributing velvety dark fruit most notably blackberries.

Grape Spotlight: DO Pla de Bages Picapoll from Bodegas Abadal

The first documented reference on the existence of the Picapoll grape in Bages is found in an inventory of the monastery at Sant Benet de Bages in the year 1564. From 1889 on, there is more precise evidence of the existence of this grape and in documents dating back to 1889 and 1890, it is mentioned as being the most widely-grown variety in the region of Bages. After 1930, in Bages and the rest of the wine-growing regions of Catalonia, there was a decline in the area of land dedicated to vineyards which resulted in the residual growth of Picapoll in Bages – a region which is ideally suited to this variety, thanks to the grape’s great adaptability. -- Bodegas Abadal 

 

The DO Pla de Bages designation is one of ten in Catalunya and lies 30 miles northwest of Barcelona. This region enjoys a mostly Mediterranean climate but Continental influences move in as the hot summers transition to cold winters.   The Llobregat and Cardener rivers weave southwards through the region and vineyards sit within the rivers' valleys, surrounded by impressive mountain peaks and ranges, including the tourist destination of Montserrat Monastery.  During the summer months the grapes develop slowly because of the very high diurnal temperature variation.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Vineyard locations, and the corresponding grape-growing conditions, are defined by two distinct types of topography. The central basin, at an altitude of 200m (600ft), has predominantly clay-based soil and is warmer.  Alt Bages ('Upper Bages'), which lies at 500m (1,600ft) above sea level, is the cooler part and has a healthy amount of lime in its soil. This helps to retain moisture during the hotter months. The lower reaches, simply referred to as Pla des Bages, sits at around 200m (600ft) above sea level. The soils are alluvial, made up of mostly clay and sand."

Pla des Bages acquired DO status in 1995, in part from the effort of Valentí Roqueta, who chaired the association from 1995 to 2015. A dozen years previously, he had founded Bodegas Abadal based on eight centuries of the Roqueta family's vine growing tradition. The first documents that illustrate this tradition date from the year 1199.  The estate focuses on native grape varieties that his ancestors may have grown for they provide the "maximum expression in their native land".

Their "vineyards are distributed on terraces at different levels. They are nourished by a terrain of clay and limestone, and they are surrounded by woodland which leaves its mark in our wines. The result is expressiveness and complexity. The vineyards are immersed in a unique microclimate that is a mix of Mediterranean and continental, with a marked temperature oscillation between day and night."

The winery may not call their vineyard practices Regenerative Farming, but they sure resemble it. Abadal facilitates biodiversity and maintains a high proportion of the forest around their vineyards that protect and nurture a wide variety of animal and plant species. As a result, pests are controlled by this  auxiliary fauna. They also maintain a living soil by sustaining an active microbiology, minimizing compaction, improving its structure and therefore facilitating the work of the roots. Finally, they are very proud of their efforts to  maintain the historical environment by restoring and conserving dry stone huts and vats that date back to the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. 

The very first Abadal Picapoll was released to the market in 1996 and this was also the first 100% Picapoll released from the DO Pla de Bages. A synonym for Piquepoul or Picpoul, the grape may have migrated to Catalunya from the Rhone Valley and Languedoc regions during the earlier Roqueta family history.  The Picapoll grape grows in small compact clusters, with tiny spherical berries that very often show “picades” or marks on the grape skin, which is where the name originated. I sampled the 2021 vintage of the Abadal Picapoll Pla des Bages DO at last month's Spain's Great Match and was surprised by its weight -- assisted by three months aging on lees.  Expect a floral and herbaceous aroma and a complex citrus profile. Fresh acidity provided a lively finish 

Spain's Great Match - Masterclass: Around Spain in 8 Glasses

Last week I attended Spain's Great Match held at the Del Mar Restaurant located in The District Wharf. The day long event started with a Masterclass: Around Spain in 8 Glasses led by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein & Advanced Sommelier Lindsey Fern.  Why is Spanish viticulture important? Because Spain has the largest vineyard area of all the major vine-growing countries in the world and accounts for 13% of the World's vineyards. As a corollary, Spain is the third largest producer of wine globally and accounts for the 8th largest exporter to the U.S. by volume and 4th by value. Moreover, Spain is also home to over 400 individual grape varieties grown in over 70 D.O.s (Denominación de Origen) and two DOCas (Denominación de Origen Calificada) in Rioja and Priorat. The seminar focused on eight appellations through the eyes of one winery within each region. 

D.O. Cava
The Denominación de Origen was established in 1986 with 95% coming from within Penedès. The D.O. encompasses close to 94k acres of vineyard and over 6,100 growers. In 2022 the designation was more finely tuned with the creation of the Cava de Guarda (minimum of 9-months tirage) and Cava de Guarda Superior (minimum of 18-months tirage) designations. The leading grape varieties are Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.  Our sparkling wine sample was the Parés Balta Blanca Cusiné Organic Cava 2014 ($52) which showcases the age-ability of Cava  particularly after 80 months en tirage (secondary fermentation). The Xarel-lo heavy grapes were organically grown in central Penedès by the 3rd generation Cusiné family. 

D.O. Rías Baixas
This designation was created in 1988 and represents the cool and green northwest corner of Spain known as Galacia. It consists of five sub-regions with the Val do Salnés the historical focal point -- but each region is affected by the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Albariño is the dominant grape and there are rising trends for more barrel aging and sparkling programs. We have covered D.O. Rías Baixas very often in the past so please read these posts for more in depth coverage.  The wine presented was an old friend, the Pazo Senorañs Colección Albariño 2020 ($25). The winery is located in the Val do Salnés and this wine shows the depth that Albariño is capable of showing particularly balanced with the racy minerality. 

D.O. Rueda
Established in 1989, Rueda is the oldest D.O. in Castilla y Leon and is located on high plains rising around 2,500 feet. The vines receive 2600 hours of sunshine annually and a large thermal diurnal change helping to maintain acidity and lengthen the growing season. Verdejo is the primarily grape and there are significant plantings of Sauvignon Blanc where a small percentage is often blended with Verdejo. The grape was considered a safety net in case Verdejo didn't flourish. Marques de Riscal pioneered this blend but we sampled the magnificent Marques de Riscal Organic Verdejo 2022 ($12.99) consisting solely of Verdejo. Lively tropical fruit. 

D.O. Jerez
This region was the second designation in Spain (1933) and is the southernmost wine region in Western Europe. It is known for sherry production and the white Albarizo (chalk) soils. This soil is poor in organic composition and highly porous but well suited for the Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximénez, and Moscatel grapes. In general sherry is produced when the grape must, called "yema", is fermented and fortified to 15.5% then enters a solera system where it is aged for various years. During this aging period, the wine undergoes biological aging under a layer of yeast called "flor". The Gonzales Byass Tio Pepe Fino NV Sherry ($22) is produced using this method  and the unique pungent aromas from the flor blend nicely with the almond notes characteristic of the Palomino grape.  Our visit to the winery is available here.

DOCa Rioja
This was the first Spanish region to receive the D.O. status in 1925 and the first to receive the DOCa designation in 1991.  The DOCa (Qualified Denomination of Origin in English) is the highest category in Spanish wine law, reserved for regions with above-average prices along with stringent quality controls. Rioja is the home of Tempranillo, the birthplace of the Spanish language, and consists of three zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. This is a hot Mediterranean climate influenced by high altitudes ranging from 1150 to 2100 feet. Besides Tempranillo, Viura, Malvasia Garnacha Blanca & Tinta, and Graciano are major players. We sampled the Finca Allende Rioja Tempranillo 2017 ($35) - a DOCa wine grown in Rioja Alta and naturally fermented and aged 14 months in Bordelais 225 liter barrels. Savory.

D.O. Jumilla
This designation was created back in 1966 and encompasses 61,755 acres located on a very high plateau (1,000 to 3,000 feet)) in southeastern Spain. The climate is hot and dry leading to abundant organic viticulture where the vines receive over 3,000 hours of sunshine a year. The soils are chalky and allows the vines to be planted ungrafted. Monastrell (Mourvèdre) is the signature grape and accounts for 77% of plantings. The grape was represented by the Juan Gil Silver Organic Monastrell 2021 ($18) - a certified organic wine made from 40+ year old vines. This is a delicious wine that I will be seeking for further sipping. 

DOCa Priorat
This designation was created in 2006 out of older designations and is completely encircled within DO Montsant. This is a high altitude region in Spain's northeast corner of Catalunya with a combination of Mediterranean and Continental influences. Soils are quartz and slate and known as llicorella. These conditions have lead to the "intense, full-bodied red wines; the classic Priorat wine is made from old-vine Garnacha and Samso/Cariñena, and has concentrated aromas of licorice, tar and brandied cherries". The Gratavinum 2pr Organic Priorat 2021 ($50) is a four grape blend dominated by Garnacha and then Carignan and is named after the Gratalops village in with the winery is located. There are twelve wine based villages within Priorat.  There is surprising softness to the biodynamic farmed wine with a pleasant lingering finish.  

D.O. Ribera del Duero
Since its inception of a D.O. in 1982, this region has grown from 24 wineries to over 300 today but still one third of the vines are 45+ years old and 10% are 80+ years old. These vines consist of  Viura, Malvasia, Garnacha Blanca & Tinto, Tempranillo, and Graciano. All excel in the string Continental climate featuring 40 degrees of diurnal temperature shifts -- partly due to the high altitudes (2,360 to 3,600 feet).  The Pago de Anguix Costalara 2019 ($40)  is made from 100% Tempranillo grown at 2,626 feet in elevation. Initial intensity leads to  lush tannins. 

Grape Spotlight: DO Costers del Segre Danaus Red Wine

Costers del Segre is Catalonia's most inland wine region and generally speaking, this region is harsh. It's semi-arid, with a climate of extremes. Although its seven fragmented districts do represent a varied mix of soil and climatic conditions. -- wine-searcher.com

DO Costers del Segre is a Denominación de Origen (DO) wine region located in Catalonia, on the northeastern coast of Spain. The name means 'Banks of the Segre' – a river which originates in the Pyrenees mountain ranges and meets the Ebro River just south of the city of Lleida.  The DO was established in 1988 and is a collection of subregions clustered along the Segre river valley. It has a dry, semi-arid Continental climate featuring limestone and clay spoils. The DO is comprised of seven sub-zones, four of which are considered "mountain viticulture".  It also experiences a high diurnal temperature variation (70 degrees F) producing aromatic and structured wines.

The subregions, from north to south, are Pallars Jussa, Artesa de Segre, Segria, Raimat, Valls del Riucorb, Les Garrigues and Urgell. As a result of these scattered subregions, this DO boasts one of the most versatile wine portfolios in Spain. The cooler vineyards produce grapes for Cava (Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo), while the drier areas are suitable for growing red grapes, especially Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Trepat, Monastrell, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Varietal white wines are also produced based on Chardonnay, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc.

One wine we recently received is made from the three most predominate grapes within the drier regions. The Danaus Organic Red Wine 2022 ($13) is a blend of 45% Tempranillo, 45% Garnacha, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and made exclusively for Origins Organic Imports. This is a company founded by Labid Ameri and Anne Bousquet initially as the U.S. importing arm for Domaine Bousquet -- but has expanded to include organic wine producers worldwide

The wine is made by Bodegas Costers del Sió a twenty year old operation where the first vines were handplanted in 1998 and the first wines released in 2005. Their estate is named Finca de Flix and is poor in organic matter but rich in loam and mud. It is located in the Artesa de Segre subregion at an altitude of 1,000 feet (310 meters), where the estate is influenced by the Mediterranean with continental influences.

Danaus refers to Danaus Plexippus (i.e., “sleepy transformation” in ancient Greek) -- the scientific name for the monarch butterfly (named for the monarch King William III of England). Each of the three grape varieties were harvested separately and after fermentation, bended and aged for four months in 300 liter French oak barrels. This is a fantastic wine for a number of reasons, starting with the retail price. Not many wines under $15 have this balance between fruit flavors and oak influences and an uninterrupted flow from the nose to the approachable finish. Layers of red berries and light smokey tannins. 

Distributed in AR, AZ, CA, CT, DC, DE, FL, KS, LA, MD, ME, MI, NJ, NY, OR, VT, WA

Grape Spotlight: Catalonia Cariñena (Samsó)

Carignan (Cariñena in Spain) is a black-skinned wine grape variety, most likely native to Aragon. The variety is found in wines along the Mediterranean coast, particularly in northeastern Spain and in France's Languedoc-Roussillon region. It is used most commonly for blending with many of the region's other key varieties – most famously Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. In Spain the best Cariñena wines are found in the acclaimed Priorat region and in Catalonia it is often labeled as Samsó. Often found blended with the more plush Garnacha, Cariñena makes up just under a quarter of plantings (of red wine varieties) in the area.

Carignan prefers warm, dry climates when the grape can express high tannins, acid and color. This makes it an excellent addition to red wine blends that have plenty of aroma and flavor, but lack body and depth of color. Carignan is only rarely made as a varietal wine, but the best examples can show characteristics of dark and black fruits, pepper, licorice, and spicy and savory accents.

Carignan is usually grown as bush vines, many of which are very old and require hand-harvesting as the vines' stems are too tough for machines. It is a late-ripening variety that is known to produce high yields if not properly cropped. This was once considered an attractive attribute of the grape but, as this can make it difficult to achieve good flavor concentration, it also led to it falling out of favor. (wine-searcher.com)

For a broader view of Catalonia Wines please read Catalan Wines USA Master Class -- Catalunya's Grapes, Designations, and Wine-making History.  During this tasting there were three expressions of 100% Cariñena poured all representing a different Catalonia appellation. 

Cellar Masroig is a century old winery located in Priorat County in the DO Montsant. This is a mountainous region known for their red wines and the owners of Cellar Masroig asserts that Cariñena is the foundation of their wines. Their Cellar Masroig Sola Fred 2022 ($15) is 100% Carignan and aged six months in stainless steel showing a bright fruit, very fruit forward, with a vibrant mouthfeel and refreshing acidity.  

Molí Parellada was founded in 1987 in the town of Sant Sadurni d'Anoia (near Barcelona) as El Xamfra -- specializing in cava production. In 2016, they opened a second winery in the town of Torrelavit in the DO Penedes. Since the new winery was built within an old paper mill, the new cellar was named Molí Parellada.  Second generation Francisco Domínguez is now the winermaker and CEO and has envisioned the large expansion of production in both cava and still wines. The Molí Parellada Alabrent 2022 ($36) - is one of these still wines, made from 100% Samsó which is interestingly aged six months in a locust tree barrel. The wine has a chewy structured mouthfeel full of slightly spicy sour cherries and other red fruit which carries through the long finish. Imported by 

In 1985, Tomàs Cusiné Barber started making wine at the family-owned Castell del Remei winery, started the Cérvoles winery in 1997, and the Tomàs Cusiné winery in 2003.  All three within the borders of the DO Costers Del Segre. This is a dry, semi-arid Continental climate featuring limestone and clay spoils and Catalonia's northernmost DO. The 30 hectares of vineyards he manages are organically or biodynamically farmed. These vines are planted in high elevations and result in the slower ripening of grapes, thicker skins, optimal acidity, and vibrant colors. This is the situation regarding the Finca Barqueres Carignan 2018 ($53)  -- 100% Cariñena harvested from a 1.5 hectare plot of old vine Cariñena. After fermentation, the wine is aged twelve months in French oak barriques. The wine is delicious, layers of stewed plums and tobacco, some spice, and an approachable finish. Excellent. Imported by Valkyrie Selections.