Grape Spotlight: Vernaccia di San Gimignano with Fattoria Poggio Alloro

Bonagiunta da Lucca; e quella faccia | Bonagiunta from Lucca; and that face

di là da lui più che l'altre trapunta | beyond him more embossed than the others

ebbe la Santa Chiesa in le sue braccia: | had the Holy Church in its arms:

dal Torso fu, e purga per digiuno | from Torso, and by fasting purges

l'anguille di Bolsena e la vernaccia". | the eels of Bolsena and the Vernaccia."

--Dante Alighieri's Purgatorio Canto XXIV

Vernaccia di San Gimignano, perhaps Tuscany's greatest white wine. It has long been esteemed by Italians from Dante's time through the modern era when in 1966 it became the first Italian wine to be awarded DOC status and 1993 upgraded to a DOCG status (the only Tuscany white wine having this designation). The Italian hill town of San Gimignano is surrounded by land that used to be the ancient Ligurian sea. Thus fossils and shells permeate the pliocene soil and clay providing mineral composition to the Vernaccia wines. These wines are also known for a string floral bouquet and abundant acidity. 

Fattoria Poggio Alloro specializes in not only Vernaccia di San Gimignano, but also a Grappa made from the must of the processed grapes.  The name Poggio Alloro means Bay Leaf Hill, and it refers to the bay laurel bushes that grow everywhere on their property. This is a destination providing spectacular views of San Gimignano and the surrounding rolling hills as well as organically growing a multitude of agricultural commodities from grapes; olives; fruits; vegetables; and grains: barley, oats, corn, sunflowers, durum, wheat, and farro to produce the delicious durum, semolina and farro pasta. With these, they offer cooking classes as well as a round of wine tasting.

These wines include, of course, Vernaccia di San Gimignano; but also Sangiovese to produce Chianti wine; and Canaiolo, Volorino, Malvasia and Trebbiano to produce the traditional Vinsanto sweet wine. The Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG is 100% Vernaccia and on the nose expect honeysuckle and perhaps tropical fruit. On the palate notice the minerality - the saline jumps forth - then alternating with pear, citrus and slight bitter almonds. 

The Grappa di Vinacce di Vernaccia is a distillate obtained from the pomace (the solid part of the grape composed of skins and seeds) of Vernaccia grapes. This grappa is noticeably fragrant with both citrus and stone fruit mixed with a soft petrol. 

300 years of Chianti Classico with Cecchi Family Estate

On September 24, 1716 - over 300 years ago - the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo III de' Medici, issued a declaration creating the boundaries in which Chianti wine could be created. This area included the three villages of the Lega del Chianti (Castellina in Chianti, Gaiole in Chianti, and Radda in Chianti) as well as the village of Greve and a 3.2-kilometre-long stretch (2-mile) of hillside north of Greve near Spedaluzzoi. This designation persisted until 1932 when the Chianti designation was enlarged and and divided into seven sub-areas: Classico, Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colline Pisane, Colli Senesi, Montalbano and Rùfina. The Classico designation refers to the historical area now celebrating it's 300 year anniversary.

Currently, the blend for Chianti Classico designated wines must comprise at least 80% Sangiovese, with the remainder comprised of other approved red grape varieties such as Canaiolo, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah. The use of white grape varieties such as Malvasia and Trebbiano have been prohibited in Chianti Classico since 2006. Chianti Classico must also have a minimum alcohol level of at least 12% with a minimum of 7 months aging in oak, while Chianti Classico's labeled riserva must be aged at least 24 months at the winery, with a minimum alcohol level of at least 12.5%. You may recognize Chianti Classico wines by the Black Rooster (Gallo Nero) - the official symbol of Chianti Classico since the 1930s, but the image dates back to 14th century Florence.

Last week I was able to celebrate the 300th anniversary of Chianti Classico with Andrea Cecchi from Tuscany's Cecchi Family Estate. While dining at Ristorante La Perla, our party listened to Andrea discuss the region and his winery while enjoying several of the winery's Chianti Classico and Maremma Toscana wines.  The Chianti winery is located in Castellino in Chianti, one of four municipalities entirely within the historical boundaries.  Andrea and his brother Cesare are 4th generation winemakers as the winery has been operating since 1893.  His Father expanded their estate to include vineyards in Maremma Toscana, which will be the focus of a future post. As for the Chianti Classico estate, expect a total wine and food experience when visiting with an onsite restaurant and vineyard tours. Here are three wines you could sample. Cheers to Cecchi and Chianti Classico.

2014 Chianti Classico ($20.99): 90% Sangiovese that starts with a refreshing fruit forward character.which transitions to a well rounded, structured, and lingering finish. Perhaps from the acids.  A complete bargain at this SRP.

2013 Chianti Classico RSV ($40.99): 90-10 ratio between Sangiovese and Canaiolo and Colorino; a wine which the winery has been producing since 1987. This is a bigger wine, with tobacco on the nose, structured, full bodied, yet an easy finish even with more noticeable tannins.

2011 Coevo ($105.99): Coevo translates to contemporary and this wine honors Andrea and Cesare's father by utilizing the best lots from the Chianti and Maremma Toscana estates. The wine is always 50% Sangiovese with the 2011 model including Cabernet Sauvignon (Chianti Classico) and Merlot and Petit Verdot from Maremma. The individual varietals are aged 18 months in oak, blended, then aged an additional 6 months in oak. The winery then holds back the bottled wine for one year before release. That's a heavy investment but it pays off with a tremendous wine. This wine is powerful - cut and blended right through the fat in my wild boar entree. Even with this intensity there's an elegance to the wine giving it that wow factor.

Wine Chateau brings back memories with the Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro Gold 2008

When our friends at the Wine Chateau forwarded a care package, one of the wines brought back memories of my first ventures into wine though the Ruffino brand. A neighborhood Italian restaurant served the Ruffino Il Ducale and over time we graduated to the top of the chain - the Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro Gold ($30). The winery has operated in Tuscany since 1877, when the cousins Ilario and Leopoldo Ruffino starting sourcing local fruit to produce wine. Over time the winery survived succession and war and in 1947 winery produces it first Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro Gold. In this package I received the 2008 vintage, one year removed from the 50th anniversary bottling. The Sangiovese grapes are harvested  from the Ruffino estates of Gretole, Santedame, and Montemasso, within the Chianti Classico sub region. The wine also includes a small percentage of Cabernet and Merlot and was aged two years in oak and then another six months in bottle. The result is a big wine with luscious dark black fruit, some leather and dirt, and a polished finish - smooth with  balanced tannins. A very good wine at a very reasonable price. Cheers