Gambero Rosso's Vini D’Italia 2025 Roadshow

On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide.

The masterclass focused on Pecorino within several different regulatory zones: IGT Pecorino, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino, Colline Pescaresi, and the Tullum DOCG. The wines shared a persistent floral character, and fabulous acidity, while alternating between citrus and tropical fruits. My favorites of the nine featured were the Cascina Del Colle Terre Di Chieti Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore Aimè 2023 and the Cantina Tollo Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  The latter is comprised of 100% organically grown Pecorino that was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity.  The Aimè is farmed organically and is profoundly more fruit forward with strong ripe peaches and tropical notes. That profile is balanced by lively minerality. Two fantastic wines. 

Moving into the Embassy's atrium and the walkaround tasting I focused on two regions: Puglia and Lazio. I started with Amastuola, a wine resort and farm located just north of Taranto where they organically farm ten grape varieties. By design, the 100 hectare estate "brings together the two concepts of functionality and aesthetics. The rows of vines were planted on the basis of the design conceived by the great landscape designer Fernando Caruncho. The vine spaliers draw harmonious parallel waves that follow each other for about 3 km. " Their IGP Puglia Bialento di Amastuola 2024 is a blend of Malvasia and Fiano and provides fresh pears, white grapefruit, and herbaceous notes. The IGP Puglia Primitivo di Amastuola 2021 is full bodied dark fruit with layers of light spices and juicy tannins.  Then there's  Negroamaro - a favorite Puglia grape - and their IGP Puglia Negroamaro di Amastuola 2021 shows luscious soft fruit  and a juicy spiced finish. 

Masca del Tacco is located in the cultural heart of central-northern Salento with 200 hectares of vines within a triangle of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce. They farm Negroamaro, Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fiano, and the Brindisi based Masseria Paticchi vineyard contains the regal Susumaniello grape. They poured a very delicious and surprisingly mineral laden Susumaniello Rosato 2024 and well as the full bodied Susumaniello 2023 with its layers of fresh and inviting fruit.  

From Lazio and just southeast of Rome, Colle di Maggio introduced us to the indigenous Bombino Blanco grape which they grow in volcanic soils along with Fiano, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. These vines are over 50 years old, are planted 150-200 meters above sea level, and benefit from their proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Bombino Blanca is a late ripening variety and disease tolerant grape primarily used in blends and the Sirio Lazio Bianco IGP is a delicious combination of Chardonnay and Bombino. They release another excellent Chardonnay blend in the Lunapigra Lazio Bianco IGP -- this time paired with Fiano. 

Located a little closer to the sea, Casale del Giglio was a most pleasant surprise. The winery started as a small family venture in 1967 then expanded in 1985 with the planting of an experimental vineyard of 60 different vines. This translates today to a large portfolio of a dozen flagship grape varieties, with two very intriguing options: Viognier and Bellone. The Lazio IGP Blanco Viognier is a very rare sighting of this Rhone grape in the Italian landscape and provides full fruit - with layers of peaches and apricots. The Lazio IGP Blanco Bellone shows that this ancient (once sited by Pliny the Elder) and drought resistant grape thrives in the sandy soils close to the sea. The wine shows tropical fruit and fresh acidity that is extremely quaffable. This is one to seek. 

Effervescence Unleashed: What is Prosecco?

Part of the Effervescence Unleashed program is to highlight the various sparkling wine regions and methods used throughout the world. Prosecco is a popular but commonly misunderstood word. Is it a region, a wine, or a grape variety? Before 2009 this term described all three. Pretty confusing, right? Thus, in 2009 several changes were made. First, the Prosecco DOC was created which covers a vast area spanning two regions, nine provinces, and 556 townships. It is geographically located north of Venice in parts of Veneto and Friuli. At the same time the historical birthplaces of Prosecco, Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Colli Asolani were granted DOCG status. ConVal is a region of steep hillsides located between the villages of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. The Colli Asolani is a hilly area of northern central Veneto where a neatly defined ridge passes from northeast to southwest between the towns of Cornuda and Asolo. Every DOCG wine is subject to official tasting procedures. To prevent counterfeiting, the bottles have a numbered government seal across the neck.  And finally, the name of the primary grape variety used in making Prosecco wine was changed from Prosecco to Glera - the grape's historical synonym.

The word Prosecco is most likely Slovenian in origin "derived from prosek, a dialectic term for 'path cut through the woods'". In Croatia a sweet passito wine called Prošek has been made for thousands of years - although the EU has now banned that usage. I guess it's name is too similar to the subject of this post which was named after the village Prosecco located near Trieste. The first known mention of Prosecco occurred in 1593 when an English traveler named Fynes Moryson wrote "[In] Histria (Trieste) proper grows the wine Pucinum, now called Prosecho, much celebrated by Pliny". Pucinum refers an ancient wine drunk by the Romans.

The modern history of Prosecco began in 1876 when enologist Giovanni Battista Cerletti founded the Scuola Enologico in Conegliano. However the wine's popularity accelerated with improved production techniques for secondary fermentation starting with Federico Martinotti patenting a method using large pressurized temperature-controlled receptacles. And Eugène Charmat's adoption of the autoclave in secondary fermentation soon followed. Post WWII this autoclave became "widely adopted throughout the area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene and the modern sparkling wine industry was born". Over time this historical region lost focus as more producers outside the region began producing Prosecco sparkling wine. Thus the 2009 reforms.

Today the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG comprises 15 hillside towns with thousands of small growers supplying 183 wineries. The Dolomite Mountains protect the area on the north while the Piave River valley and a flat plain to the Adriatic Sea bring sea breezes and a semi-marine climate.  The vines are planted on south facing sloops and receive abundant rain which drains quickly through the loose soil or dry from the maritime breezes. 

Wine-searcher.com notes that "the Colli Asolani (the hilly area of northern central Veneto in which Asolo Prosecco is made) run in a neatly defined ridge from northeast to southwest between the towns of Cornuda and Asolo itself. Along this 8-kilometer (5-mile) spine, the hills undulate gently, their peaks rising to a maximum of about 450 meters (1500ft). The finest vineyard sites lie on the southern side of the hills, on sunny south-facing slopes, whose gentle gradient and loose soils offer excellent drainage. They are interspersed with orchards, vegetable crops and the wooded areas that reach up in finger-like valleys to the ridge summit.". 

There are three styles of wine made in the two DOCGs: Spumante (95% of production), Frizzante, and Tranquillo (Still). And there are three categories of residual sugar: Dry (17-32 grams of residual sugar), Extra-Dry (12-17 grams), and Brut (0-12 grams). A fourth category, Extra Brut, was just adopted and will incorporate wines from 0-6 grams.

Other requirements include that the grapes in a Prosecco wine must be at least 85% Glera with the remaining 15% from other authorized grape varieties. Secondary fermentation can be achieved via the autoclave method or in the bottle ("Rifermentato in Bottiglia"). And finally labeling. Superiore refers to only Spumante wines made within the two DOCGs. Millesimato indicates a wine made from a single vintage (85% minimum). And Rive indicates a Prosecco Superiore made entirely of grapes from one of the designated Rive (villages).

As part of our $12.99 Challenge for the Effervescence Unleashed campaign, we stumbled upon this Villa Antica Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG for $8.99. From what we've learned the Glera grapes were grown in north central Veneto in the Asolo DOCG and the extra-dry designation means that there is 12-17 grams residual sugar. It comes across off-dry with tight bubbles with some almond mixed with creamy lemons. A nice value for a DOCG Prosecco. 

Pair with Will There By Wine, a novel written by Whitney Cubbison and featured during the BevFluence book series held at the Chicago Speakeasy. 

Encounters with Vermouth

My Dear Wormwood, ....

Sipping absinthe or vermouth prompts me to mimic Uncle Screwtape when addressing his inexperienced nephew as I've grown fond of wormwood and the other aromatized herbs found in these beverages. Whereas the Artemisia absinthium herb is expected in absinthe, it shouldn't surprise consumers of its prevalence in vermouth.  Consider that the term "vermouth" translates from English to German as wermut.  Technically, Vermouth is a fortified wine that is aromatized -- meaning herbs, barks, citrus, or other ingredients are added for aroma and flavor -- and fortified with additional alcohol. 

The Kingdom of Savoy was a historical state that existed from 1416 to 1861 and was located in the western Alps, in what is now part of France, Italy, and Switzerland. the southern French part of the empire includes the Chambery region whereas the Italy section including Turin. Interestingly vermouth can be traced to both of these regions. Carpano was the very first vermouth brand, dating back to 1786 in Turin, Italy. In France, Noilly Prat in Marseillan was a dry style of vermouth, founded in 1813 whereas Dolin’s Vermouth de Chambéry was first identified as a distinct style in 1821. 

In modern times, the European Union states that vermouth, as well as other aromatized wines, must include at least 75% wine in the finished product to which alcohol has been added (fortified) and have an ABV of 14.5–22%. In particular, vermouth is a product "whose characteristic taste has been obtained by the use of appropriate substances of Artemisia species".  See ANNEX II. 

Vermouth comes in a range of sweetness levels, from extra dry (limited to a maximum sugar content of 30 grams per liter in the E.U.) through the semi-sweet blanc/blanco/bianco style, to sweet (minimum sugar content of 130 grams per liter in the E.U.).   This later style is traditionally an ingredient to the classic Manhattan and Negroni. The blanc is traditionally used in Martinis whereas dry vermouth leads to a Dry Martini. All can be served over ice for those accustomed to a bitter and herbaceous profile.  

My first consistent encounter with Vermouth began during the BevFluence Negroni book campaign where David T. Smith and Keli Rivers published dozens of recipes.  Then came an Italian vacation consuming more Negronis and dry or sweet vermouth on ice with a twist of lime, as well as various Amaros. I was hooked. 

One of my favorites is from Uruguay in the Vermut Flores Rosé NV Canelones where Basta Spirit uses Tannat as a base augmented by 27 botanicals, including flowers such as hops, chamomile, rose, and elderberry. It is extremely aromatic, with plenty of herbaceousness and forest spiciness - very gin-like.

At a recent Spain's Great Match trade tasting I became infatuated with the Casals Vermouth - the first Vermouth made with ancestral Catalan white grape varietals, enhanced with 20 Mediterranean botanicals from Penedés, Spain. A fantastic sipping rum from Torres Distillery and available by the glass at Del Mar Restaurant at the District Wharf. 

At this event I was also able to reacquaint myself with the sherry inspired vermouth from Jerez and Gonzalez Byass. The La Copa Vermouth starts with an Oloroso Fino sherry base (100% Palomino) that is created by oxidative aging. The wine is fortified early, suppressing the flor yeast which typically protects against oxidation. This vermouth is aromatized with wormwood, various herbs, dried fruit, and spices. The sweeter La Copa Rojo Vermouth is an eight-year-old blend of 75% Palomino and 25% Pedro Ximénez with traditional botanicals including wormwood, cinnamon, orange peel, and nutmeg. 

Closer to home in Middleburg Virginia, Mt. Defiance Distillery produces an interesting Sweet Vermouth that I realized very quickly was too unique to use in a Negroni. This vermouth starts with botanicals and spices infused into their Mt. Defiance Apple Brandy that they say "extracts flavors from herbs we grow ourselves and spices from around the world. This flavored base is then blended with barrel-aged brandy, Vidal Blanc wine, local honey, and caramel syrup. Not a traditional recipe so serve over ice and enjoy.  

And finally, I recently received samples of two vermouths from one of the historic homelands of the beverage -- 9diDANTE. The Purgatorio Extra Dry Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP and Inferno Rosso Vermouth di Torino Superiore IGP  are produced at the historic Dr. M. Montanaro Distillery in Piedmont. Collaborators Alex Ouziel and Mario Baralis are one of few producers in the Turin region to use 100% DOC Piedmontese wines, made entirely from native grapes -- Dolcetto/Cortese for the red Inferno and Arneis for the extra dry Purgatorio .  Each vermouth contains 27 botanicals with the major contributors aligning to Dante's classical interpretation of levels of the afterlife.  I enjoyed the Inferno chilled and the Purgatorio over ice with either a twist of lime or orange. Expect a longer post n mid-June with thoughts from Mr. Ouziel 

Grape Spotlight: Sicilia DOC Grillo

"Beginning with the Greeks, who arrived on the eastern part of Sicily in the 8th century BCE, the idea of methodical grapegrowing practices for the purpose of quality winemaking firmly took root on the island. As the centuries passed, Phoenicians and Romans traded Sicilian wines based on their power and their distinctive qualities. The best vines were propagated, viticulture developed, and thus Sicilian wines were promoted on and off the island. Today, we see the fruits of these labors. Though many things have changed, most of Sicily’s indigenous grape varieties and time-honored winegrowing traditions continue to play an important role. Thanks to meticulous vineyard tending and gentle grape handling in Sicily’s wineries, Sicilia DOC wines feature the medley of flavors that Sicily has been known for since ancient times and which represent some of the best wines of Italy." -- Wines of Sicily DOC

Sicily is Italy's southernmost wine region and is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea It is blessed with consistently bright sunshine and reliably moderate rainfall, Sicily's classic Mediterranean climate is ideally suited to the production of wine grapes. This is because the warm, dry climate means that mildews and rots are kept to a minimum, particularly in well-ventilated areas that benefit from coastal breezes. This low disease pressure means that chemical sprays are hardly needed, and much Sicilian wine is produced from organic grapes.

There are a number of denominations spread throughout the island with the broadest being Terre Siciliane IGT and Sicilia DOC. As of 2017, all varietal wines made from either Grillo or Nero d'Avola must be classified as Sicilia DOC.  According to wine-searcher.com, "Sicily's soils, and the mountains from which they came, are of particular interest when it comes to studying the island's viticulture. Mount Etna, the towering stratovolcano, dominates the island's eastern skyline, and is responsible for the mineral-rich, dark soils that characterize the Etna DOC vineyards. Vines are now being planted higher up on the volcanic slopes, to capitalize on the cooler air and richer soils there. Fifty miles (80km) south, the Iblei Mountains stake their place in eastern Sicilian wine. On their lower slopes and the coastal plains below them, the DOCs of Siracusa, Noto, Eloro and Vittoria sweep from east to west, forming a crescent that mirrors the arcing coastline. In western Sicily, the volcanic hills are less individually dramatic but just as influential to the soil type".

Apparently the origins of Grillo are still being debated, but what is clear, is that this grape is well suited to the hot, dry Sicilian climate. Traditionally Grillo has been used in the popular Marsala fortified wines because of its high levels of sugar and the ease with which it oxidizes. More recently, winemakers have tuned their processes to use Grillo to make fresh, light white wine with nutty, fruit-driven flavors.  Some winemakers have started using lees contact to create deeper, fuller-bodied expressions of the grape, with aromas and flavors that resemble ripe citrus and spice. 

During last month's Slow Wine tour in Washington DC, I attended the From Vine to Glass: Sicilia DOC's Native Varietals seminar sponsored by Wines of Sicily DOC.  This seminar featured a trio of very distinct Grillo wines.  

Baglio Bonsignore "OI" Sicilia DOC 2022 Grillo
The winery farms 13 hectares of grapes near Naro, in Southwestern Sicily, with four hectares planted with 10 year old Grillo vines.  The vineyards are planted at about 1,000 feet in limestone and clayish soils. We started with a very complex wine, tropical and nutty aromas that follows with loads of character. Fresh and mineral driven with some creamy depth.  

Bagliesi "Terre Di Toto" Sicilia DOC 2022 Grillo
The winery is also located near Naro and the estates are spread over twenty-five hectares in the province of Agrigento and also planted around 1,00 feet and similar calcareous-clayey soils.  This wine is a blend of  Grillo grapes from the estates and is leaner with bright green apples, slight grass, and salivating salinity. This is a patio consumer -- it won't last long.

Di Giovanna "Helios" Sicilia DOC 2022 Grillo
This winery is located in the mountainside of Monte Genuardo, a protected nature reserve and situated on the western side of Sicily,  They operate five family estates of almost 100 hectares -- composed of 65 hectares of vineyards, 14 hectares of olive groves, and 21 hectares of wheat fields and forests. These vineyards are  located in the small DOC of Contessa Entellina within the Sambuca di Sicilia DOC and most are planted on the limestone and ancient marine slopes of Monte Genuardo up to 2,700 feet above seal level.  This is an interesting wine, both refreshing and funky featuring  ripe citrus and spicy aromas and flavors. There's also significant structure with appreciable tannins and minerality on the finish. 

Slow Wines Descent into Puglia

The Puglia Wine Region is a long, thin wine region in the far south-eastern corner of the "boot" of Italy. According to wine-searcher.com, "the hot Mediterranean climate, persistent sunshine, and occasional sea breezes make for a near-perfect environment for viticulture".  For this reason, over the past 2.5 millennium olives and grapes have been cultivated in this area regardless of the Greek, Roman, Goth, Byzantine Greek, German Lombard, Muslim Saracen, Norman, Angevin, Aragonese King, Spanish, French Bourbon, and Neapolitan Republic stewardship.

In November 1995, Puglia vineyards were organized into the Puglia IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica), a region-wide appellation for the Puglia region: the easternmost region in Italy, a long, narrow peninsula, bordered by two seas, the Ionian and Adriatic, with the longest coastline in the Italian peninsula.  This coastline is bordered by plains rising steadily up into low-lying mountains and is characterized by scrubby, sunbaked limestone soils, cooled down on summer evenings by fresh breezes from the Mediterranean. 

Puglia IGT regulations allow for 50 grape varieties with an even split between red and white wine grapes. Northern Puglia favors Italian classics such as Sangiovese and international varieties such as Chardonnay and Syrah. In contrast, southern Puglia favors the region's traditional varieties: Primitivo, Negroamaro, Susumaniello, and Uva di Troia (Nero di Troia) for reds and Falanghina, Fiano and Muscat for whites.

These wines were on display at a recent Slow Wine tour of the United States.  This is an organization with branches in the U.S. and Italy which "support and promote small-scale .. winemakers who are using traditional techniques, working with respect for the environment and terroir, and safeguarding the incredible biodiversity of grape varieties that are part of our heritage".  During their stop in Washington D.C., I was able to sample wines from four Puglia members that demonstrated the richness and depth from this area. 

Amastuola Winery
This establishment is located on the western side of south Puglia, close to Taranto and the Ionian sea. By design, the 100 hectare estate "brings together the two concepts of functionality and aesthetics. The rows of vines were planted on the basis of the design conceived by the great landscape designer Fernando Caruncho. The vine spaliers draw harmonious parallel waves that follow each other for about 3 km. The were also defined by their author himself 'waves of time that have been crossing this place since times immemorial'.

In addition, 1,500 centuries-old olive trees have been rearranged in the 24 islands organically positioned throughout the entire surface of the vineyard as well as along the historic allays of the Farm. The olive trees used are the result of a historical-monumental recovery work. The CNR (National Research Council) of Perugia dated and filed a record of all the olive trees, some of which are 800 years old and have a diameter that exceeds 2.5 metres. The combination of olive trees and vines has created a harmonious visual contrast that brings alongside the silver green of the vines with the intense green of the olive trees".

From this estate they produce over a dozen organic wines with several available at the event.  Primitivo is their flagship grape and is expressed through their Centosassi, Lamarossa, and Primitivo labels.  The Lamarossa may have been my favorite as its shared concentrated ripe fruit and silky tannins with the other labels, but had a more earthy quality. They also poured a bolder more tannic and spicier Aglianico as well as a delicious Negroamaro. Please seek Puglia wine made from this grape. 

Cantina Sampietrana
This winery was formed in 1952 as a cooperative by 68 vine-growers and is located on the Adriatic coast within the Brindisi and Salice Salentino DOCs, both designations dedicated primarily to the production of Negroamaro wines. The region is also both hot and dry and enjoys 300 sunny days each year with summer afternoon temperatures regularly surpassing 104 Fahrenheit. As a result, the grapes which grow here develop high levels of sugar which leads to a high percentage of alcohol in the wine.  Besides Negroamaro, the winery vinifies Primitivo, Susumaniello, Malvasia, Aglianico, Montepulciano, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Fiano and Verdeca.

Negroamaro is a main player and "owes its name to its main characteristics: the almost black color of its wines and a bitter aftertaste. It has medium-sized bunches of conical shape, with tight density, of short size and without wings. The berries are large, very pruinose and with thick black skins with violet veins. Oval in shape, the berries are very leathery. Productivity is very high and must be limited with drastic pruning and suitable breeding systems, little expanded". It's beauty is shown in the Since 1952 Brindisi D.O.P. Reserva -- a blend of Negroamaro 80% and Montepulciano 20%.  This is simply a luscious wine. Negroamaro is also featured in the Settebraccia Salento I.G.P. Rosso, along with Susumaniello, that is fresher and very satisfying.  

Primitivo was also on display in three offerings, the Tre Filari Salento I.G.P. Rosso, Centoare Primitivo, and Stillarosea Salento I.G.P. Rosato. Like with the Amastuola Winery, these wine show concentrated ripe fruit and silky - easy tannins. 

Finally, the Verdeca Salento I.G.P. Vino Biblioteca is a refreshing saline driven wine with citrus and juicy acidity. This autochthonous and late ripening grape is now found almost exclusively in the Taranto and Bari provinces and is most known for its high acidity.

Sacco Vignaiolo Apuli
This winery is located in Torremaggiore in northern Puglia and whose underlying philosophy is Terra Mij or "My Land". This implies a deep respect for the territory and tradition first displayed by founder Vincenzo Sacco and now by his two sons Matteo and Alessandro. They maintain this respect by focusing on Nero di Troia - the indigenous grape of northern Apulia. This grape is more commonly referred to as Uva di Troia and is believed to have arrived in Puglia with Greek colonists in ancient times. "According to the legend, in fact, the Greek hero Diomede, once the Troia War (Trojan War) ended, sailed to the Adriatic Sea until he reached the Ofanto river and there, after he found the perfect place, he anchored his boat. Diomede brought with him some grapevines that, upon the banks of the Ofanto river, gave birth to the Nero di Troia grape.   It takes its name both from its polyphenolic properties, which gives it a deep ruby red color that sometimes may seem 'black', and from its historical origins."

During this tasting they offered three expression from this grape. The Magis Nero di Troia is the premium offering - made from hand harvested grapes grown on very steep slopes. This wine has tremendous structure with balanced freshness. the Terra Mij Nero di Troia is even fresher with hints of spice - a very solid wine. Finally, they produce a rosè in the Unanotte Nero di Troia Rosè where the wine's pink color is extracted over one night (Unanotte). This is a lovely wine -- bright fruit and slight minerality. 

On the white side, the Aleis Organic Falanghina stands out as a single vineyard source with fresh citrus and mineral characters. And the Terra Mij Organic Bombino White is an introduction to a new grape variety -- its obscureness probably explains adding White to the label. It's a blend with 30% Malvasia - aromatic with ripe fruit, minerality, and fresh acidity.  Bombino Bianco is most likely from Spanish origin but has found a home in northern Puglia, Abruzzo, Lazio and Emilia-Romagna.

Conti Zecca
The Zecca family has been farming estates in central Salento since 1580 when Francesco Antonio Zecca moved to Leverano. In 1884, Pope Leone LEO XIII bestowed the title of Count upon Giuseppe Zecca because of the family's role in developing the region. In the early 20th century the first bottles were produced and in the post War era, the cellar was modernized leading to the first Conti Zecca wine label: Donna Marzia. In modern times, they operate four estates all closer to the Ionian coast that cover 320 hectares of vines. They focus on Negroamaro, Primitivo, and both Malvasia Nera and Bianca.  The Nero IGP Salento Rosso is a dark rubied blend of Negroamaro and Cabernet Sauvignon which starts with a complex aroma of fruit and spice that leads to a structured wine with soft but firm tannins and a deep fruit profile. I just want to chew on this wine on a cool night on the deck. 

Grape Spotlight: Cortese di Gavi DOCG from Riva Leone

The Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG is an appellation covering still and sparkling white wines produced from the indigenous Cortese grape grown in and around the town of Gavi in southern Piedmont, Italy, roughly 50km (30 miles) due north of Genoa on the shores of the Mediterranean. -- wine-searcher.com

The designation of origin Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG was established in 1998 based on a pre-existing DOC created in 1974. The DOCG area is a predominantly hilly area and vines are planted within 11 municipalities in the southern part of the province of Alessandria. The soils are primarily alluvial, calcareous, and limestone resulting in low yields and decent minerality. It's climate contains elements of both Continental and Mediterranean with abundant winter rainfall followed by hot and dry summers. The summer conditions are tempered by the influence of winds from the sea with abundant sunshine allows the grapes to slowly ripe. And the high diurnal temperature range between night and day allows for the grapes to retain acidity and boist the aromatics.

Cortese is a white grape variety most famously associated with the crisp, lime-scented wines of Gavi. The variety is known for its bracing acidity and its ability to retain freshness even when grown in warm environments. The variety has been grown in the southeastern part of Piedmont for hundreds of years with documents on Cortese dating back to the beginning of the 17th century (wine-searcher.com). The thin skinned grape can be very rigorous and vines and grapes must be pruned and dropped which also helps prevent rot by allowing more airflow. And the warn environment in Gavi allows the grapes to ripen fully balancing the high acidity.

Mack & Schuhle offers a Riva Leone line of wines from the Piedmont which includes the Riva Leone Gavi 2021 ($14.99). According to the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi, 2021 provided conditions in which "the grapes revealed a slow maturation ... stands out compared to previous years, with a better stability of the malic acid which suggests an excellent qualitative potential for the 2021 Gavi DOCG". For this wine, the grapes were lightly pressed and the must fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel vats. This is a delicious wine, starting with powerful aromatics of pineapple and pears leading to a lemon-lime profile, texture and minerality, finishing with racy - fresh acids. A complete bargain. 

Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo DOC with the Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC Superiore

Cerasuolo (chair-ah-swolo) translates loosely to "cherry-colored” in Italian and refers to Italian rosés in general. However the Abruzzo province is one of the few appellations in Italy exclusively dedicated to rosé, the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC. This designation was established in 2010 and mandates that 85-100% of the rosé wine consist of Montepulciano and the remaining percentage be filled with local white grapes. Montepulciano's dark color and tannins give the rosatos body with characters of cinnamon, orange peel, strawberry, rose and a mineral acidity. 

We received a sample of Cerasuolo from Masciarelli, a leading producer in Abruzzo and the producer with vineyards in all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, l’Aquila). The winery has been producing a rosato since 1986 and  Villa Gemma is their flagship line from  winemaker Gianni Masciarelli. The Montepulciano grapes for the Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC Superiore ($20) were harvested from 30 year old vines from the San Martino sulla Marrucina estate in Chieti, destemmed and macerated on their skins for 24 hours, before fermentation in stainless steel.  This rosato has exceptional texture and body with raspberries, pomegranate, and herbaceous aromas followed by a full red raspberry profile enveloped with minerality and subtle mint and finishing with refreshing acids. 

Grape Spotlight: Masciarelli Trebbiano d'Abruzzo

Abruzzo is a naturalist's dream "as half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed 'the greenest region in Europe'".  That could be why it has been occupied since the "Neolithic era, with the earliest artifacts dating to beyond 6,500 BC. In the 6th century BC, the Etruscans introduced viticulture into the area which continued with the Romans -- who contributed to much of Abruzzo’s recognizable history.  Even after the fall of Rome, the Lombards, Byzantines, Magyars, and Normans successively imparted some type of influence in Abruzzo.   Throughout these periods, viticulture has been a constant with multi-generation small plots, sometimes less than a few hectares, being passed down through successive generations. 

Abruzzo is located directly east of Rome and bordered by the Molise wine region to the south, the Marche to the north, the Lazio to the west, and the Adriatic to its east.  It is further divided into several sub-regions: Chieti, Pescara, Controguerra, Teramo, and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano) -- with Chieti being the prime winemaking region (75% of vineyards).  Most of Abruzzo is rugged with  65% mountainous with this landscape assisting grape growing by blocking most storms from the west. And to the east, the Adriatic Sea provides a moderating Mediterranean climate for these vineyards; vines that are predominately planted in calcareous clay soils.

The most popular grape varieties in all sub-regions are Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.  Last week we focused on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and now Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, both through the wines of Masciarelli. Trebbiano is grown throughout Italy, but in Abruzzo, Trebbiano Abruzzese is a different clone, an ancient version indigenous to the region.  The wines are generally "golden in color, typically dry but fruit-forward, with a delicate bouquet and refreshing, crisp acidity".  -- wine-searcher.com

The only Abruzzo producer with vineyards in all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, l’Aquila), Masciarelli wines demonstrate the diversity of Abruzzo terroir.  The winery was founded in the early 1980s by Gianna Masciarelli when produced the first vintage of wine from 2.5 hectares of vines he had planted in land owned by his grandfather near the family home in the province of Chieti. Over the next couple decades production increased as more estates were planted and Gianna introduced several innovations to the region. He was the first to introduce the Guyot training system in Abruzzo and use French oak barrels to age Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  Tragically Gianna died suddenly in 2008 but his wifie of almost 20 years, Marina Cvetić, seamlessly continued the progress towards higher quality and expansion. Today, their eldest daughter Miriam Lee manages the winery with Marina and they focus on keeping all wines estate grown while expanding plantings, transitioning to organic viticulture, and dialing back the use of oak.

The Masciarelli Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC 2022 ($16) is a friendly wine with a floral aroma, flavors of stone peaches and creamy lemons and a refreshingly acidic finish. It is fermented and aged in stainless steel and like the Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, the grapes are sourced from several of the estate vineyards in Chieti, Pescara, & Teramo. 

Grape Spotlight: Masciarelli Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Abruzzo is a naturalist's dream "as half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed 'the greenest region in Europe'".  That could be why it has been occupied since the "Neolithic era, with the earliest artifacts dating to beyond 6,500 BC. In the 6th century BC, the Etruscans introduced viticulture into the area which continued with the Romans -- who contributed to much of Abruzzo’s recognizable history.  Even after the fall of Rome, the Lombards, Byzantines, Magyars, and Normans successively imparted some type of influence in Abruzzo.  Throughout these periods, viticulture has been a constant with multi-generation small plots, sometimes less than a few hectares, being passed down through successive generations. 

Abruzzo is located directly east of Rome and bordered by the Molise wine region to the south, the Marche to the north, the Lazio to the west, and the Adriatic to its east.  It is further divided into several sub-regions: Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano) -- with Chieti being the prime winemaking region (75% of vineyards).  Most of Abruzzo is rugged with  65% mountainous with this landscape assisting grape growing by blocking most storms from the west. And to the east, the Adriatic Sea provides a moderating Mediterranean climate for these vineyards; vines that are predominately planted in calcareous clay soils.

The most popular grape varieties in all sub-regions are Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.  This week we will focus on Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and next week Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, both through the wines of Masciarelli.

Montepulciano  is a late-ripening, thick-skinned, deep-colored grape indigenous to Abruzzo. It provides a robustness that is balanced by considerable acidity and noticeable tannins. That profile means wines ranging from firmly structured and willing to age to lighter styles, including rosés with some heft, depending on decisions made in the vineyard and winery. The wines are known for their fruit and spice characters.

The only Abruzzo producer with vineyards in all four provinces (Chieti, Pescara, Teramo, l’Aquila), Masciarelli wines demonstrate the diversity of Abruzzo terroir.  The winery was founded in the early 1980s by Gianna Masciarelli when produced the first vintage of wine from 2.5 hectares of vines he had planted in land owned by his grandfather near the family home in the province of Chieti. Over the next couple decades production increased as more estates were planted and Gianna introduced several innovations to the region. He was the first to introduce the Guyot training system in Abruzzo and use French oak barrels to age Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.  Tragically Gianna died suddenly in 2008 but his wifie of almost 20 years, Marina Cvetić, seamlessly continued the progress towards higher quality and expansion. Today, their eldest daughter Miriam Lee manages the winery with Marina and they focus on keeping all wines estate grown while expanding plantings, transitioning to organic viticulture, and dialing back the use of oak.

The Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2020 ($16) is an example of the latter approach. This was the original wine that Gianna Masciarelli first produced back in 1981 and today is the company's best-selling product and the flagship of the Classic Line. The grapes are sourced from several of the estate vineyards in Chieti, Pescara, & Teramo and are fermented and aged in stainless steel. It is a juicy wine, showing dark berries and earthiness and lifted by sufficient acidity and approachable tannins. And appealing everyday wine. 

Grape Spotlight: Oltrepò Pavese DOC Pinot Nero and Others

Lombardy is one of Italy's largest and most populous regions and is located in the north-central part of the country. It consists of five DOCG, 21 DOC, and 15 IGP titles with the Oltrepò Pavese DOC being one of the larger and better-known regions. Oltrepò  Pavese refers to Pavia across the Po -- or more meaningful - the area south of the Po River. The region lies in southwest Lombardy and shares many common features with neighboring Piedmont as both regions were once ruled by the House of Savoy.

Viticulture has been prevalent in Oltrepò Pavese for thousands of years as evidenced by the discovery of a fossilized caràsa, that is, a fossilized vine trunk, 25 cm long by 6 cm in diameter, found near Casteggio (Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese). And why not. According to wine-searcher.com, "the vineyards of the Oltrepo zone sit among the foothills between the Apennines and the river Po in the provinces of Alessandria, Genoa, and Piacenza. The vines benefit from an excellent microclimate (thanks to its proximity to the Po), well-drained soils rich in clay and calcareous marl, and a terroir often compared to that of Barolo".  In 1884 Oltrepò Pavese was home to at least 225 native vines, but today there are just a dozen that are the most widespread.

 
Last week I attended a fascinating lunch at Cafe Milano featuring wines from Oltrepò Pavese presented by Carlo Veronese, the director of the Consorzio Vini Oltrepò. Even though there are 20 classifications within Oltrepò Pavese, this tasting focused on the Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepo Pavese, and Sangue di Giuda dell'Oltrepo Pavese. And notice that the wines of Oltrepò Pavese are generally named from the vines from which they are made and not just the region.

 
Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC
Oltrepò Pavese is considered the Pinot Nero (Noir) capital of Italy as more Pinot Nero is planted there than anywhere else in Italy. Interestingly, the original genotypes of Pinot Noir were already cultivated in the Oltrepò areas by the ancient Romans and may have been the source of Pinot Noir in the south of France. However, the current Pinot Noir vines derive from French selections that were planted after the Phylloxera epidemic. Pinot Nero can be labeled as a vintage wine or a Reserva with a minimum of two years of aging.

The Cantina di Casteggio Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2020 is a lighter style but with noticeable tannins and a little chewy mint.

The Dino Torti Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2019 was perhaps my favorite despite the interesting branding. It's floral with creamy red raspberries and cherries and a viscosity throughout.

The Mazzolino Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 was the biggest of the reds, aged twelve months in oak and offering a tea and pepper aroma, a full-bodied interior, with a firm and lasting finish.

Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG
Metodo classico is Italy's version of Champagne's methode classique and Pinot Nero is dominant in all wines made under this title.  The sparkling wine can be made either as a white or rosé and 70 percent or more of the final blend must be Pinot Nero. This percentage increases to 85 percent for wines claiming the varietal title Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Pinot Nero.  Picked at the early stages of skin ripeness, Pinot Nero displays a good balance of acidity and sugar required for these sparkling wines.

The Asburgico Oltrepò Pavese DOCG Metodo Classico Pinot Nero 2018 explodes in the mouth with textured citrus notes.

The Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Francesco Oltrepò Pavese DOCG Metodo Classico Pinot Nero 2014 needed a few minutes to open then the floral, white grapefruit and a little tropic fruit notes rushed out.

Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC
This title applies to still and frizzante white wines containing at least 85 percent Pinot Grigio.

The Vanzini Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC was an eye-opener on the region's richer style and orangish-colored versions of this varietal wine.

Sangue di Giuda dell'Oltrepo Pavese DOC
The title translates to "Blood of Judas" and applies to sweet red wines which can be still, frizzante (semi-sparkling), or spumante. Barbera and Croatina must each account for between 25 and 65 percent of any blend with Pinot Nero, Uva Rara, and Vespolina alone or in any combination, accounting for 45 percent. The intriguing and sometimes controversial name Sangue di Giuda means "Blood of Judah" or "Blood of Judas". 

The Losito & Guarini Sangue Di Giuda Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC, C'era Una Volta 2021 is a low alcohol (6%), full-bodied, and fresh wine where the sweetness is partially obscured by the abundant acidity.

Oltrepò Pavese Riesling
The Ca Di Frara Oliva Oltrepò Pavese Riesling DOC also provides a darker copper color with tropical and petrol notes.

Oltrepò Pavese Barbera
The Ca Montebello Oltrepò Pavese Barbera DOC 2020 is fruit-forward, and very friendly with a floral start and a slight mocha tail.

Organic and Vegan Wines from Italy's Corvezzo Winery

"Skins are thicker and this helps wines develop better aromas. For this reason, I believe that organic grapes have the potential to generate superior wines.", Giovanni Corvezzo

Corvezzo is a third-generation family-owned and 100% certified organic winery located near Treviso, between the cool Dolomite Mountains and the sunny Adriatic Sea. They currently organically tend 154ha of vines and are in the early stages of converting to biodynamic farming. The winery was founded in 1960 by  Giovanni and Maria Corvezzo and over the next three decades their sons, Giuseppe and Renzo, expanded the number of vines and started experimenting with a more sustainable approach to viticulture with integrated pest control. 

In 2009, Renzo’s son Giovanni took charge of operations and over the next decade converted it into a completely certified organic operation. And in 2017, the first organic Prosecco was released. Simultaneously, Giovanni moved to a vegan approach in the winery by replacing the use of animal products (egg whites, gelatin, fish bladders, or milk proteins) with bentonite clay during the fining process. 

Giovanni believes that these procedures improve the quality of the grapes as based on the quote above. He also believes that organic farming gives wines better balance and greater fruit concentration in addition to enhanced aromatics. These features were definitely apparent in the three sample wines that we received. 

Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie DOC 2020 ($13)
This is the weightiest Pinot Grigio I've tasted in recent memory; perhaps due to 5% aged in oak. Intense aroma followed by stone fruits and lasting acidity.
 

Prosecco DOC Rosé - Extra dry Millesimato 2020  ($13)
This is a blend of Glera and Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) undergoing secondary fermentation using the Charmat method. This sparkling Rosé was a great surprise, velvety with layers of red berries and a refreshing bready effervescence. 

Prosecco DOC Treviso Extra Dry 2020 ($13)
This is a blend of 85% Glera and 15% DOC admitted grapes also undergoing secondary fermentation using the Charmat method. Lots of green apples, some pear, and a very satisfying finish. 

Amazing values for all three wines. 

Grape Spotlight: Abruzzo DOC Pecorino

“…one morning in September, before the harvest, I and others went to Arquata del Tronto, in the hamlet of Pescara, where they had pointed out to me an ancient vineyard cultivated with Pecorino. Arrived on the site I was indicated by the owner of the land Mr. Cafini some shoots that were evidently two, or three, generations old. In the following February I went back to pick up the shoots and took them to my company in Ripatransone, where I made the first grafts: my idea was to cultivate it in purity. I know, it was a crazy idea, everyone said it, my friends always repeated it to me in the winter evenings in front of the fire, but I wanted that wine, I knew it was possible, and I never doubted” -- quote from Guido Cocci Grifoni in The Rebirth of Pecorino

Abruzzo is a naturalist's dream "as half of the region's territory is protected through national parks and nature reserves, more than any administrative region on the continent, leading it to be dubbed 'the greenest region in Europe'".  That could be why it has been occupied since the "Neolithic era, with the earliest artifacts dating to beyond 6,500 BC. In the 6th century BC, the Etruscans introduced viticulture into the area which continued with the Romans -- who contributed to much of Abruzzo’s recognizable history.  Even after the fall of Rome, the Lombards, Byzantines, Magyars, and Normans successively imparted some type of influence in Abruzzo.   Throughout these periods, viticulture has been a constant with multi-generation small plots, sometimes less than a few hectares, being passed down through successive generations. 

Abruzzo is located directly east of Rome and bordered by the Molise wine region to the south, the Marche to the north, the Lazio to the west, and the Adriatic to its east.  It is further divided into several sub-regions: Controguerra, Teramo, Chieti, Pescara, and L’Aquila (L’Aquilano) -- with Chieti being the prime winemaking region (75% of vineyards).  Most of Abruzzo is rugged with  65% mountainous with this landscape assisting grape growing by blocking most storms from the west. And to the east, the Adriatic Sea provides a moderating Mediterranean climate for these vineyards; vines that are predominately planted in calcareous clay soils.

The most popular grape varieties in all sub-regions are Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano d'Abruzzo. That being said, our current focus is Pecorino, a light-skinned wine grape that, in general, produces dry, minerally, driven, floral, and herbaceous wines. According to our friends at Wiki, "Pecorino is a very old variety that, as believed by ampelographers, likely originated as a wild grapevine growing in the Sibillini Mountains that was eventually domesticated for wine production".  Its name derives from the Italian word pecora, meaning sheep, most likely because sheep would often eat the grapes while moving through the vineyards. 

Pecorino's home region is actually in Marche and in the last couple of centuries was slowly phased out because of low yields. By the mid-20th century, it was thought to be extinct. But in the 1980s, Guido Cocci Grifoni decided to "search for this native vine in the wild lands of the Sibillini National Park" and the quote above is how he traced an old vine raised in Pecorino in Arquata del Tronto.  "In February 1983, the first rows of vines were grafted in different geographical exposures within the grounds of the  Cocci Grifoni Estate. And just two years later the first demijohns of wine were produced". -- The Rebirth of Pecorino

Since then, the variety's plantings have grown exponentially, and Pecorino is now found across the Marche, Abruzzo, Umbria, and Tuscany.  "The 'Abruzzo' DOC was created to protect and enhance the main autochthonous regional grape varieties, in particular Pecorino and Passerina, and by means of the 'Abruzzo' DOC, the territory of origin of these wines has been directly identified, as a guarantee of their quality, typicality, and origin." -- Consorzio Vini d'Abruzzo

This month, the Vini d’Italia 2022 experience came to Washington DC showcasing 100 wines at the Embassy of Italy, There were also two masterclasses led by journalist and author Lorenzo Ruggeri, the first focusing on Italian wines in general and the second specifically on Pecorino wines from Abruzzo. I attended this second session which compared ten Pecorino wines from ten different producers and from various sub-regions within Abruzzo.

What I discovered was that these wines were able to alleviate the high sugar content and corresponding higher alcohol into crisp, fresh, and acidic wines. In general, they provided a vibrant white flower aroma with degrees of herbaceousness with sage, basil, and thyme. The wines also alternated between a ruby red grapefruit profile and a red delicious apple profile with a major exception being the Pasetti Abruzzo Pecorino Superiore Collecivetta DOP 2020 which had a textured profile of an upside-down pineapple cake laced with melons. The Podere Colle San Massimo Abruzzo Pecorino Colle Dell'Orso DOC 2019 showed the savory side of Pecorino layered with multiple spices. Two that stood out were the Tenuta Terraviva Abruzzo Pecorino Terraviva DOC 2021 and the Tenuta I Fauri Abruzzo Pecorino DOC 2020. The first is from a small organic grower located very close to the Adriatic so this wine is a little riper with a floral aroma, savory red apples, some herbaceousness, and energetic acidity.  The second is from the first female winemaker in the Consorzio Vini d'Abruzzo and is from the Chieti sub-region. This wine also provides savory fruit and the accustomed herbaceousness but is saline driven based on the clay calcareous soils of their vineyards. Both of these are evidently priced near six euros, so you don't need to spend much to obtain quality Abruzzo Pecorino. Saluti. 

Grape Spotlight: Fiano di Avellino with Feudi di San Gregorio

Like all the so-called archeological vines of Campania, Fiano barely escaped extinction. In the 1930s, the region was hit with phylloxera. That blight was followed by the devastation of World War II, which left Campania felix smoldering. During post-war recovery, the government encouraged farmers to plant prolific workhorse grapes like Malvasia and Trebbiano. Fiano, with its small berries and naturally low yields, was abandoned. Ode to an Ancient Grape: Fiano - Patricia Thomson

Fiano di Avellino DOCG (2003) is an appellation for white wine, located in the Avellino province within the Campania region and just to the south of our last Grape Spotlight -- Greco di Tufo.  

Fiano was saved from extinction by the Mastroberardino family and by other small producers and now is grown in several regions of 

Campania. However, it flourishes in the area of Avellino which is closest to the Apennine Mountains. This smaller region maintains its own mild microclimate; large diurnal temperature variations; and mineral-rich, volcanic, and calcareous soils.

Fiano most likely was recognized as a distinct grape variety over two thousand years ago. Its name is derived from Vitis apiana, meaning vine beloved of bees.  A different kind of vineyard pest. According to wine-searcher.com, "this wine was appreciated in the Middle Ages. The story goes that Charles d'Anjou, King of Naples, was so enamored with this variety that he had 16,000 Fiano vines planted in the royal vineyards". 

Over 20 years ago the Capaldo and Ercolino families established Feudi di San Gregorio in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in order to produce wines from indigenous grapes well suited to the porous volcanic soils of Mount Vesuvius.  They stress the importance of the microclimate of Irpinia, a historical region of the Campanian Apennines, "where vineyards have always coexisted with fruit trees, woodland, olive trees and herbs: a rugged and yet gentle territory with a strong and genuine identity".  In addition, "Irpinia is an ancient inland whose vineyards were even described by ancient authors such as Pliny, Columella and Strabo. The Irpinia region is very varied, with a succession of mountains, hills and plains with rivers and streams in between. The territory’s orography causes a system of winds that gives the region good rainfall and creates a microclimate that sets it apart from the other Campania areas: vegetation is varied and thick; the short winters are extremely cold and snowy, while the summers are mild and long".

Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino 2019 ($28)
This wine aged for about four months in stainless steel and is a very unique profile with citrus notes mingling with spices and nuts. Such an interesting combination without oak treatment. Expect sufficient minerality and light acidity. Excellent.