Effervescence Unleashed: What is Champagne?

Champagne is a sparkling wine that is exclusively produced in the Appellation d’Origine Controlee area of Champagne, France and made using the traditional method known as the Méthode Champenoise. This method involves a secondary fermentation in the bottle, which creates the bubbles that are characteristic of Champagne. While the term "Champagne" is often used generically to describe sparkling wines, legally and technically, only those produced in this specific region under strict guidelines can bear the name. In short, Champagne is more than just sparkling wine—it's a protected cultural and agricultural product that reflects the tradition and terroir of its region.

Origin and Terroir

The Champagne region, located about 100 miles northeast of Paris, has a cool climate and chalky soils that are ideal for growing grapes with high acidity—a key trait for sparkling wines.  In this kind of cool climate, the growing season is rarely warm enough to ripen grapes to the levels required for standard winemaking.  The landscape that earned Champagne its name (it roughly translates as "open countryside") suggests very gently over the white, calcareous soils of the Paris Basin. 

This famous chalk is distinct from the limestone soils of other French wine regions, being much finer-grained and more porous. This looser structure means that its mineral content is more readily absorbed by the vine roots, and it also provides excellent drainage – avoiding the risks of waterlogging. A further benefit is that this permeability allows access to the water resources far below, promoting strong root development and ensuring a continuous water supply.

The Champagne wine region is divided into five sub-regions: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and Côte des Bar.

1. Montagne de Reims: Known for its chalky limestone soil and home to Reims and Epernay, it is the largest sub-region with the most Grand Cru villages.
2. Vallée de la Marne: Located between the Marne River and the Côte des Blancs, it is the second-largest sub-region.
3. Côte des Blancs: Specializes in white grapes and is known for its chalky-limestone soils.
4. Côte de Sézanne: A smaller sub-region known for its diversity of soil types.
5. Côte des Bar (Aube): The southernmost sub-region, it is known for its red and rosé Champagnes.

Grape Varieties

Champagne is typically made from three primary grape varieties:

• Chardonnay 
• Pinot Noir 
• Pinot Meunier 

These grapes may be used alone or blended in various proportions to create different styles and flavor profiles.

Production Method

Champagne is made using the Méthode Champenoise, or traditional method, which involves a second fermentation in the bottle. This process creates the fine bubbles that characterize Champagne. The steps include:

1. Primary Fermentation – Refers to the initial fermentation process where grape juice is transformed into a still wine. During this stage, yeast converts the natural sugars in the grape juice into alcohol and carbon dioxide, resulting in a dry wine with high acidity. This fermentation can take place in various containers, such as stainless steel tanks or oak barrels, though stainless steel is more commonly used.
   
   
2. Blending – The blending process aims for consistency for non-vintage Champagne by combining wines from different grape varieties and different vineyard plots, along with reserve wines from previous years. Non-vintage Champagne typically blends wines from three to five different vintages.
   
   
3. Second Fermentation – A liqueur de tirage (wine, sugar, and yeast) is added to the wine before bottling. The amount of sugar in the liqueur de tirage determines the pressure of carbonation in the bottle.
   
   
4. Aging on Lees – Once the yeast have finished converting the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, they die and become lees. The lees remain in contact with the wine, imbuing it with autolytic aromas (or aromas from lees-aging), which add layers of complexity.
   
   
5. Riddling and Disgorgement – In order to ensure the clarity and quality of the Champagne, the lees must be removed. The bottles are tilted at an angle downward so that the lees settle into bottle's neck. The bottles are occasionally turned or riddled so that the sediment does not remain on one side of the bottle. The sediment is then removed through disgorgement where the bottle's neck is frozen and when the temporary cap is removed, the pressure in the bottle forces the sediment out.
   
   
6. Dosage – Before final corking, a small amount of sugar wine(liqueur d’expedition) is added to balance the naturally high acidity of the wine and determine its sweetness level. 

Styles of Champagne

• Brut Nature – Also known as Zero Dosage, is a type of Champagne with a very low sugar content, typically between 0 and 3 grams per liter. This designation allows the true flavors of the grapes and the terroir to be fully expressed, as no additional sugar is added after the second fermentation. The term "Brut Nature" comes from the fact that the only sugar present is the natural sugar in the grapes.
  
  
• Brut – The most common style, Brut Champagne has a sugar content typically less than 12 grams per liter. The term "Brut" originated in the early 19th century when Champagne producers began experimenting with lower sugar levels in their wines. 
  
  
• Extra Dry – Refers to a champagne that is slightly sweet rather than dry. It has a sugar content ranging from 12 to 17 grams per liter.
  
  
• Demi-Sec – A sweet style of Champagne that contains between 32 and 50 grams of sugar per liter, often paired with desserts.
  
  
• Rosé Champagne – The pink color of Champagne Rosé is achieved through specific winemaking techniques involving red grapes, such as the blending method (assemblage) and the saignée method.  The blending method involves adding a small amount of red wine to the base white wine before the second fermentation, while the saignée method involves a short maceration of red grapes to extract color and aromas.  Champagne Rosé has a history dating back to the 17th century.
  
  
• Blanc de Blancs – Blanc de Blancs is a term used for Champagne made exclusively from white grape varieties, typically Chardonnay. The name translates to "white from whites" in French, indicating that the wine is made solely from white grapes.  In the Champagne region, Blanc de Blancs are mainly produced in the Côte des Blancs area, known for its chalky terroir which is ideal for growing Chardonnay.
  
  
• Blanc de Noirs – Blanc de Noirs is a term used for white Champagne made from the juice of black-skinned grapes, such as Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. The name literally means "white from blacks" in French, indicating that the wine is produced from dark-skinned grapes. During the winemaking process, the contact between the juice and the skins is minimized to prevent the juice from taking on color from the skins, resulting in a white wine despite the use of red grapes.

Learn more about the BevFluence Effervescence Unleashed campaign here. 

Domaine Juliette Avril - AOP Cairanne 2019

The origins of the Cairanne AOP vineyards derive from the Roman period where vines have been tended for at least two millennium. The name « Cairanne » probably comes from the Latin « Cara », which means « rock » or « stone », referring to the stony and stony soils characteristic of the area.

I received a Hopwine package of three wines from Domaine Juliette Avril and was quite enamored with their AOP Cairanne 2019. Cairanne is an appellation for quality red, white and rosé wines from the parish of Cairanne in the southern half of the Rhone Valley in France. The wines were previously classified as 'Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne', but after an extended period where it was seen by many as as the most consistently excellent of the villages, it was elevated to cru status in 2016. This means that wine produced here is now just labeled 'Cairanne'. (wine-searcher.com)

Cairanne's climate is Mediterranean, characterized by hot and dry summers, and mild winters. This sunny climate is strongly influenced by the proximity of the Mediterranean, which acts as a thermal regulator, moderating temperature variations.  The Rhone River also acts as a thermal regulator, moderating temperature variations and protecting the vines from winter frosts. Thus nights are usually cool in the area and this day-night thermal amplitude allows the grapes to maintain acidity, which brings a touch of freshness to the wines and balances their richness in alcohol.

Domaine Juliette Avril is currently managed by the grandson of Juliette Avril's, Stephan Brun-Avril. He represents the third generation of an estate consisting of 43 ha in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cairanne, Côtes du Rhônes Villages Plan de Dieu, and Côtes du Rhône appellations. The Cairanne vines cover over 10 ha over two types of terroirs: white limestone clays (cold earth that gives the wines tight, robust, powerful tannins) and red clays (which provide a generous aroma).

The AOP Cairanne 2019 is made from a GSM blend of Grenache 65%, Syrah 25% & Mourvèdre 10%. It is a wine of character but still well balanced and supple. The grapes are mixed during harvest and fermented together.  The aroma is earthy with some leather that yields to a fresh fruit and black pepper. The tannins are approachable yet build structure and depth. 

The Hopwine kit also included two other wines starting with a very delicious AOP Côtes du Rhône 2020. The is a majority Carignan blend that also includes Cinsaut, Grenache, and Syrah. It is herbaceous, fruity (dark plums) with very approachable acidity and tannins. AOP Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 is a blend of Grenache 65%, Syrah 25% & Mourvèdre 10% that was aged casks for six months. Expect a lively aroma, vibrant fruit, black tea, and a long, friendly finish. 

Grape Spotlight: AOP Limoux Blanquette de Limoux Mauzac Blanc

Blanquette de Limoux is considered to be the first sparkling white wine produced in France and it was created long before the Champagne region became world-renowned. Although the vineyards date back to the 5th Century BC, introduced by the Greeks, this particular wine was discovered in 1531. A hundred years before Dom Perignon, some Benedictine Monks were fermenting a white wine at the Abbey in Saint-Hilaire.  It was produced in cork-stoppered flasks (the cork oak forest south of Limoux was an important factor). To this day an age-old tradition is followed to bottle at the time of the full moon in March ready for the warmer weather to start the secondary fermentation that produces les bulles (the bubbles) and the fabulous sparkle within the bottles. -- The Good Life France

This fact was highlighted during a recent seminar I attended titled Languedoc: The New French Wine Scene and presented by Vins du Languedoc. This region is located in southeast France on the Mediterranean and is comprised of 20 AOPs representing 90k+ acres of vines. AOP Limoux is a sub-regional appellation located close to the Pyrenean foothills and includes three sparkling wine AOPs: Crémant de Limoux, Limoux Blanquette de Limoux, and Limoux Méthode Ancestrale.  Mauzac Blanc is the dominant grape with each region allowing different percentages. Limoux Blanquette de Limoux and Limoux Méthode Ancestrale both obtain secondary fermentation in the bottle with Limoux Blanquette de Limoux using dosage and Limoux Méthode Ancestrale being bottled when the must reaches 5-6% abv.  

The AOP Limoux and three sparkling AOPs share similar growing conditions affected by the two main geographic influences: the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. These are a cool, moist climate affected by the crisp and dry Atlantic wind from the west and the warm Mediterranean wind from the east.  In addition, the region's vineyards are higher and thus cooler than others in the general Languedoc appellation. The soils are rocky, mostly sandstone and limestone, providing excellent drainage. 

The Limoux Blanquette de Limoux AOP requires 90% Mauzac Blanc (plus no more than 10% Chardonnay and/or Chenin Blanc) with "Blanquette" representing the grape's local name. Mauzac prefers the region's limestone soils and cooler temps as it is a late-ripening variety and requires slow ripening.  The grape's dominant profile is honey and green apples. 

The most popular Limoux Blanquette de Limoux sparkling wine in the U.S. is most likely the Saint Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux with its recognizable yellow-orange label and honors the Benedictine Monks from the Abbey in Saint-Hilaire.  The 2019 vintage is composed of 95% Mauzac and 5% Chenin Blanc and is extremely clean with a dry and crisp green apple profile. Love the yeasty aromas and the creamy texture that proceeds the effervescence. 

For the Love of Bourgogne Aligoté

Having long played a second fiddle to Chardonnay, Bourgogne’s other white grape, Aligoté, is finally getting its due! As winemakers and growers help realize its potential by giving it more attention and care in the vineyard and cellar, the spectrum of styles available of this incredibly terroir-expressive wine grows wider: Bourgogne Aligoté brims with mouthwatering acidity and salinity as well as a nose driven by green apple, peach, lemon, and white flowers, yielding expressions that can range from light and refreshing to rich and age-worthy.

Although the Aligoté grape represents less than 6 percent of Bourgogne's total vineyard planting, it has a long history in the region. It has been grown in Bourgogne since the 17th century and furthermore, the Bourgogne Aligoté appellation was created 84 years ago this July (1937).  The appellation is a regional AOC, which means that the wines can be produced throughout the Bourgogne region. However, it most prolific within the Côte Chalonnaise -- in the heart of Bourgogne -- and in particular in Bouzeron, in the northern Côte Chalonnaise. 

DNA profiling shows that Aligoté is a member of the wider Pinot family, the same as with Chardonnay. It is an early-ripening variety, is more frost-resistant than its more renowned cousins, and thus planted in cooler sites. Bourgogne Aligoté wines are generally made in stainless steel and are crisp and fresh in style, with relatively high acidity, even after undergoing complete malolactic fermentation. 

During a recent For the Love of Bourgogne Aligoté Twitter tasting hosted by Christy Canterbury, we received and reviewed four Bourgogne Aligoté wines that revealed the floral, citrus, mineral, and refreshing characters of these wines. These wines also offer great value and carry an unexpected weightiness and depth. 

Bourgogne Aligoté Buissonnier Vignerons de Buxy ($19)
Their parcels of Bourgogne Aligoté are located mainly between Buxy and Saint-Gengoux-le-National (Bouzeron) with the grapes planted in calcareous soil covered with scree and rock. The wine is made entirely in stainless steel vats allowing the grape's characters to shine. This wine has a traditional Bourgogne Aligoté profile: white stone fruit, some citrus, real butter, minerality and excellent acids. 

Bourgogne Aligoté Olivier Leflaive 2018 ($27)
The grapes for this wine were also grown in calcareous clay within Puligny and Corpeau in the Côte-d'Or, and not in the Côte Chalonnaise, and using biodynamic methods. The wine was aged primarily in stainless steel with 15% in oak. This helps develop a delicious buttery texture aligning with minerality, soft tropical fruit, and refreshing acids.

Bourgogne Aligoté Marcel Giraudon 2019 ($22)
This wine is another example of the broader Bourgogne Aligoté AOC as the estate is located in Chitry-Le-Fort - near the town of Chablis and part of the Auxerre district. The Giraudon family has been farming and making wine in Chitry for centuries, and the current proprietor, Marcel Giraudon, follows very traditional methods in his work. Their vineyards are on hillsides of Kimmeridgian chalky marl as one finds in Grand Cru Chablis.  This wine was fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel and starts with a light grassy hay and citrus aroma. This then leads to a full mouthfeel, lemons and peaches, creamy texture, and refreshing acidity. 

Bourgogne Aligoté Domaine Chevrot 2019 ($22)
This estate is located in the village of Cheilly-lès-Maranges in the Côte du Nuit, just north of Côte Chalonnaise. Some of the vines were planted 75 years ago, with an average age of 30 years, in limestone soils. The Domaine itself was established in 1830 with the current family generation opting for organic farming in 2008. This is another all stainless steel wine - although with approximately 13 months aging in the vats. It is a fantastic wine with a tropical nose and a creamy, saline, wet rock interior.