Effervescence Unleashed: What is Champagne?

Champagne is a sparkling wine that is exclusively produced in the Appellation d’Origine Controlee area of Champagne, France and made using the traditional method known as the Méthode Champenoise. This method involves a secondary fermentation in the bottle, which creates the bubbles that are characteristic of Champagne. While the term "Champagne" is often used generically to describe sparkling wines, legally and technically, only those produced in this specific region under strict guidelines can bear the name. In short, Champagne is more than just sparkling wine—it's a protected cultural and agricultural product that reflects the tradition and terroir of its region.

Origin and Terroir

The Champagne region, located about 100 miles northeast of Paris, has a cool climate and chalky soils that are ideal for growing grapes with high acidity—a key trait for sparkling wines.  In this kind of cool climate, the growing season is rarely warm enough to ripen grapes to the levels required for standard winemaking.  The landscape that earned Champagne its name (it roughly translates as "open countryside") suggests very gently over the white, calcareous soils of the Paris Basin. 

This famous chalk is distinct from the limestone soils of other French wine regions, being much finer-grained and more porous. This looser structure means that its mineral content is more readily absorbed by the vine roots, and it also provides excellent drainage – avoiding the risks of waterlogging. A further benefit is that this permeability allows access to the water resources far below, promoting strong root development and ensuring a continuous water supply.

The Champagne wine region is divided into five sub-regions: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and Côte des Bar.

1. Montagne de Reims: Known for its chalky limestone soil and home to Reims and Epernay, it is the largest sub-region with the most Grand Cru villages.
2. Vallée de la Marne: Located between the Marne River and the Côte des Blancs, it is the second-largest sub-region.
3. Côte des Blancs: Specializes in white grapes and is known for its chalky-limestone soils.
4. Côte de Sézanne: A smaller sub-region known for its diversity of soil types.
5. Côte des Bar (Aube): The southernmost sub-region, it is known for its red and rosé Champagnes.

Grape Varieties

Champagne is typically made from three primary grape varieties:

• Chardonnay 
• Pinot Noir 
• Pinot Meunier 

These grapes may be used alone or blended in various proportions to create different styles and flavor profiles.

Production Method

Champagne is made using the Méthode Champenoise, or traditional method, which involves a second fermentation in the bottle. This process creates the fine bubbles that characterize Champagne. The steps include:

1. Primary Fermentation – Refers to the initial fermentation process where grape juice is transformed into a still wine. During this stage, yeast converts the natural sugars in the grape juice into alcohol and carbon dioxide, resulting in a dry wine with high acidity. This fermentation can take place in various containers, such as stainless steel tanks or oak barrels, though stainless steel is more commonly used.
   
   
2. Blending – The blending process aims for consistency for non-vintage Champagne by combining wines from different grape varieties and different vineyard plots, along with reserve wines from previous years. Non-vintage Champagne typically blends wines from three to five different vintages.
   
   
3. Second Fermentation – A liqueur de tirage (wine, sugar, and yeast) is added to the wine before bottling. The amount of sugar in the liqueur de tirage determines the pressure of carbonation in the bottle.
   
   
4. Aging on Lees – Once the yeast have finished converting the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, they die and become lees. The lees remain in contact with the wine, imbuing it with autolytic aromas (or aromas from lees-aging), which add layers of complexity.
   
   
5. Riddling and Disgorgement – In order to ensure the clarity and quality of the Champagne, the lees must be removed. The bottles are tilted at an angle downward so that the lees settle into bottle's neck. The bottles are occasionally turned or riddled so that the sediment does not remain on one side of the bottle. The sediment is then removed through disgorgement where the bottle's neck is frozen and when the temporary cap is removed, the pressure in the bottle forces the sediment out.
   
   
6. Dosage – Before final corking, a small amount of sugar wine(liqueur d’expedition) is added to balance the naturally high acidity of the wine and determine its sweetness level. 

Styles of Champagne

• Brut Nature – Also known as Zero Dosage, is a type of Champagne with a very low sugar content, typically between 0 and 3 grams per liter. This designation allows the true flavors of the grapes and the terroir to be fully expressed, as no additional sugar is added after the second fermentation. The term "Brut Nature" comes from the fact that the only sugar present is the natural sugar in the grapes.
  
  
• Brut – The most common style, Brut Champagne has a sugar content typically less than 12 grams per liter. The term "Brut" originated in the early 19th century when Champagne producers began experimenting with lower sugar levels in their wines. 
  
  
• Extra Dry – Refers to a champagne that is slightly sweet rather than dry. It has a sugar content ranging from 12 to 17 grams per liter.
  
  
• Demi-Sec – A sweet style of Champagne that contains between 32 and 50 grams of sugar per liter, often paired with desserts.
  
  
• Rosé Champagne – The pink color of Champagne Rosé is achieved through specific winemaking techniques involving red grapes, such as the blending method (assemblage) and the saignée method.  The blending method involves adding a small amount of red wine to the base white wine before the second fermentation, while the saignée method involves a short maceration of red grapes to extract color and aromas.  Champagne Rosé has a history dating back to the 17th century.
  
  
• Blanc de Blancs – Blanc de Blancs is a term used for Champagne made exclusively from white grape varieties, typically Chardonnay. The name translates to "white from whites" in French, indicating that the wine is made solely from white grapes.  In the Champagne region, Blanc de Blancs are mainly produced in the Côte des Blancs area, known for its chalky terroir which is ideal for growing Chardonnay.
  
  
• Blanc de Noirs – Blanc de Noirs is a term used for white Champagne made from the juice of black-skinned grapes, such as Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. The name literally means "white from blacks" in French, indicating that the wine is produced from dark-skinned grapes. During the winemaking process, the contact between the juice and the skins is minimized to prevent the juice from taking on color from the skins, resulting in a white wine despite the use of red grapes.

Learn more about the BevFluence Effervescence Unleashed campaign here. 

Grape Spotlight: Virginia Gamay Through the EWE25

Gamay (Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc) is most famous for producing the fresh, red wines of Beaujolais. It is also grown in other parts of France (Maconnais, Loire region, and Savoie), in western Switzerland, and in the new world: Oregon, Washington, Canada, and more recently: the Commonwealth of Virginia.  Gamay grown in Virginia was a topic at the 2025 Eastern Winery Exposition through a session titled Gamay’s Versatility and Potential with Robert Muse (Muse Vineyards) & Christine Vrooman (Ankida Ridge Vineyards).

There is documented evidence that Gamay Noir has been planted in the Burgundy region since the 14th century. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, banned the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy because he felt it was inferior to Pinot Noir. Perhaps because DNA analysis shows that Gamay is an offspring of Pinot Noir and a white grape called Gouais Blanc. It was easier to grow than Pinot Noir and delivered larger yields, so local farmers preferred Gamay over Pinot Noir -- especially in Beaujolais.

                              Carbonic Maceration

Grapes are whole-bunch fermented in a sealed container which has been flushed with carbon dioxide, creating an anaerobic (oxygen-free) environment. Fermentation begins inside the still-whole berries, creating aromatic flavor compounds (phenols) not found in conventional fermentations. These compounds are responsible for the 'banana' and 'bubblegum' aromas associated with carbonically macerated wines. The technique produces wines which are fruitier and less tannic than those made from crushed grapes. Genuine, pure carbonic maceration is very hard to achieve, because the grapes at the bottom of the container typically split under the weight of the fruit above.

In the Shenandoah Valley, Robert Muse first planted Gamay in 2007 (most likely the first in Virginia)  and it has accepted the cold temperatures. The vines are planted at 750-1,000 feet elevation in soil types ranging from light loam to sandstone and alluvial deposits. Muse Vineyards uses carbonic maceration and after the internal fermentation the grapes are crushed and traditional fermentation occurs in stainless steel. The wine rests in these tanks for a year before bottling.  After bottling young, the wine is light bodied with low tannins; lively, fruity, and fresh aromatics. We have travelled to Woodstock on many occasions to enjoy this wine. The Gold medal it was recently awarded at the  2024 Virginia Governor's Cup is well deserved.

 

Moving south into the still higher Blue Ridge Mountains at Ankida Ridge Vineyards, the Vroomans decided to plant a test plot of Gamay in 2017 after several very successful years growing Pinot Noir.  They planted the 300 vines at 1,800 feet elevation in granite soils and learned that it out produces its Pinot harvest basically 3-1. This on top of dropping 1/3 of the Gamay berries. The Gamay also has a higher pulp to skin ratio leading to less tannin and color.  In 2023 they started vinifying the Gamay using partial carbonic maceration and the wine is only available by keg in the Ankida Ridge tasting room. However, we sipped a sample at the EWE session and it is light and lively, fresh fruit and abundant acidity. 

Domaine Bousquet, GAIA, and Regenerative Farming

"Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Regenerative Farming is a contemporary topic where and increasing number of agriculture entities are following these practices. Domaine Bousquet was the first wine estate out of the United States (4th overall) to achieve Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)™ status. Their vineyards (first planted in 1997-98) are situated high above the clouds at 4,000 feet in Gualtallary in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. This dry environment definitely helped achieve many aspects of this status, but they also had to implicitly institute policies and procedures to "rehabilitate soil, respect animal welfare, and improve the lives of farmers and farm workers".

The first tenant of regenerative farming is No-Till Farming. This method offers a range of benefits that can improve soil health, increase crop yields, reduce environmental impacts, and save farmers money.  No-till farming educes soil erosion, preserves soil structure, increases soil organic matter, and reduces soil compaction, leading to better soil biological activity and improved soil health. Fields managed using no-till farming for multiple years have a higher water-holding capacity. And farmers benefit from reduces fuel and labor costs. 

Grapes for the GAIA label have always been grown organically and the "Greek goddess of the earth, has been the Bousquet family’s inspiration since founding our winery 1997".  The grapes for this brand come from the estate vineyards in Tupungato, Alto Gualtallary -- located at the foothills of the Andes at 4,000 ft. altitude. This location provides intense sun exposure and huge shifts in day-to-night temperatures combine to both mature the grapes and retain acidity.  The Gaia Organic Pinot Noir Rosé exudes red berries both on the nose and its creamy palate. Expect racy acidity for a refreshing pale rosé.

The next tenant of regenerative farming is Biodiversity through at least four plant groups.  This process increases pollinator populations by providing diverse flower-rich habitats and reduced pesticide use support pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It enhances ecosystem services so that soil biota, decomposers, and predators work together to regulate pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical controls. Biodiversity improves habitat connectivity as regenerative farms with diverse habitats and corridors can support wider species distributions and population growth. And is sequesters carbon as healthy soils and diverse ecosystems help sequester carbon, mitigating climate change and its impacts on biodiversity.

The Gaia Organic Malbec 2022 spends between eight and ten months in French oak providing complimentary vanilla tannins to the juicy ripe blackberry notes. This is an extremely approachable wine with a touch of spice to liven the glass.

The third tenant of regenerative farming is planting Cover Crops that become layers of armor by protecting the soil from sunlight and maintains moisture. Regenerative farming and cover crops are intertwined concepts that promote soil health, biodiversity, and ecosystem services. Regenerative agriculture focuses on enhancing natural processes to improve soil fertility, structure, and overall ecosystem function. Cover crops play a vital role in this approach, serving as a bridge between cash crops and soil regeneration.'

The fourth tenant of regenerative farming is incorporating Animals as a key component to achieve the regenerative goals. This includes grazing management emphasizing rotational grazing, where animals are moved to different pastures to mimic natural grazing patterns. This approach promotes soil health, increases biodiversity, and sequesters carbon.  Manure is used as a natural fertilizer, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and minimizing carbon emissions associated with their production and transportation. Animals like chickens, ducks, and geese can be used as natural pest managers, reducing the need for pesticides and promoting soil health. Holistic approach: Regenerative farming recognizes the interconnectedness of soil, plants, animals, and ecosystem services. By incorporating animals into the farming system, farmers can create a more resilient and diverse ecosystem.

Like the Malbec, the Gaia Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ages between eight and ten months in French oak. In contrast, there is more intense dark cherry notes with saline flowing through the soft finish. 

The fifth and final tenant of regenerative farming is instituting Labor Practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety. Regenerative farmers prioritize fair labor practices, ensuring decent working conditions, safe working environments, and equitable compensation for farmworkers. Regenerative agriculture values the dignity and well-being of farmers and farmworkers, recognizing their importance in maintaining healthy ecosystems and producing nutritious food. Regenerative farms strive to provide comfortable and safe working conditions, including adequate shade, ventilation, and access to clean water and sanitation facilities. Regenerative farmers avoid using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, reducing exposure risks for farmworkers and promoting a healthier environment. Regenerative agriculture often involves community-based approaches, fostering relationships between farmers, farmworkers, and local communities to promote social and environmental sustainability. Regenerative farmers invest in training and capacity-building programs for farmworkers, enhancing their skills and knowledge in sustainable agriculture practices. Regenerative practices like agroforestry, cover cropping, and crop rotation can reduce labor requirements, improving working conditions and reducing the risk of labor exploitation. Regenerative farmers prioritize continuous learning and improvement, adapting to changing environmental and social conditions while refining their labor practices to ensure long-term sustainability.

The Humboldt Current and Chile’s Coastal (Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) Wines

"Of the great oceanic currents, the Humboldt stands out. It generates one of the richest maritime ecosystems in the world. It’s so large and cold that it affects the coasts of South America from the 50th to the 4th parallels. And, whenever it shifts course the impact on weather patterns is global. So potent is the Humboldt that it’s no wonder that any wines grown on its doorstep are affected accordingly."

This statement was the basis for a virtual tasting of six Chilean coastal Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines presented by Wines of Chile and Joaquin Hidalgo, wine columnist for La Nación,  

During the presentation he informed us that , "due to its scale and length, the Humboldt Current changes the weather around it, creating a cold buffer in nearby air masses and lowering temperatures as it goes. Even in tropical regions, the resulting lack of evaporation, due to the cooler temperatures, makes for a decisive drop in atmospheric humidity. "  How so? "Firstly, it cools the water over the sea, generating a classic thermal inversion in summer, condensing the little humidity generated during the day and, from the early morning right through to midday, creating a thick fog that spreads over the sea and coast. It’s the same kind of mist famously seen in California’s Sonoma Coast and the Santa Lucía Highlands, just on a larger scale. Because this fog also filters the sunlight, grape varieties with short ripening cycles, mainly Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, develop slowly and delicately."

"This combination of cool temperatures and ample sunlight ensures that the wines ripen fully but gradually. While the whites retain sharp acidity and low pH, the fruity aromas tend to be ripe -- apple and pear for Chardonnay with notes of lime and ginger, and the palates are rich in spite of the tart core. For Pinot Noir, the color is slightly more vivid due to the impact of the sunlight, while the crisp aromas of sweet and sour cherry are accompanied by wet earth, a hint of blood, tart acidity and a rich palate."

The Humboldt effect also presents some problems. The closer to the Ocean, the more intense the moderating effect on temperature and fog becomes, thus frost rises as a concern. To alleviate this risk, vineyards are planted facing North to capture as much sunlight as possible.  And since temperatures barely change across variations in latitude, there is a delicate balance between the grapes planted and the appropriate micro-climate. These "pockets"; such as San Anontio,  Lo Zarate, Colliguay, and Isla de Maipo; are where the wines we tasted are grown.

According to Hildago, these pockets are well suited for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Chardonnay delivers green apple and pear, with notes of lime and ginger; flavors are rich, in spite of the tart core. Whereas Pinot Noir offers a slightly more vivid color due to the impact of sunlight. Crisp aromas of sweet and sour cherry are accompanied by wet earth, a hint of blood, tart acidity and a rich palate. In addition, calcareous clay soils in Limarí bring a chalky feel to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as seen in the wines from Miguel Torres, Viña Concha y Toro, and Santa Rita.  On the other hand, abundant granite soils in Chile’s Coastal Range lead to lean, smooth textures, particularly in Pinot Noir. See the TerraNoble and Viña Garcés.

Viña Montes Alpha Chardonnay Chile 2022
Aroma of tropical fruit then candied papaya; toasty, red apple, and vanilla.

Santa Rita Chardonnay Floresta Chile 2021
Yeasty floral; pears and pineapples, saline, good acidity, creamy texture.

Miguel Torres Cordillera Chardonnay Chile 2023
Floral; salinity and acidity - lots of ripe apple and lime - chalky from clay soils.

Viña Garcés Silva Boya Pinot Noir Chile 2020
Raspberries and roses on the nose; red currants (tart) and herbaceous; fresh acidity - light tannins. 

Viña Concha y Toro Amelia Pinot Noir Chile 2022
Nice mouthfeel. Soft red fruit on nose, tea, chalky, some black pepper & saline, lingering finish.

TerraNoble Algarrobo Pinot Noir Chile 2023
Sour cherry puree on nose; continues on palate, wet stone earthiness, structure, acids, lasting finish.

Regenerative Rosé from Domaine Bousquet

This year we have received many samples from Domaine Bousquet and have covered the winery in the Wines with Altitude series based on the fact that their estate vineyards are 4,000 feet above sea level. Yet, we have not covered in detail their most important viticulture accomplishment-- the first Argentinean winery achieving Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC). "Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."

Domaine Bousquet unknowingly started the regenerative process 25 years ago by farming organically then slowly adding in more features aligning to Regenerative agriculture. Wineries highlight different aspects of certification and Domaine Bousquet focuses on three three key areas:

• Soil Health and Land Management
• Animal Welfare
• Equity between Farmers and Workers

According to co-owner and CEO Anne Bousquet, "by nurturing the earth and treating it with respect, the earth will reward us with its finest fruits. Healthy plants, cultivated through these methods, do not require pesticides. The healthiest grapes yield quality yeast, leading to smooth fermentation. Consequently, we reduce the need for adjustments during the winemaking process, resulting in wines that express their true character." Thus the agricultural practices they practice aim to foster a more balanced and nourishing ecosystem. 

Soil Health and Land Management
"Within the realm of regenerative practices, we actively promote various natural processes, with a special emphasis on the use of compost. Compost contributes not only organic matter and nutrients but also enhances microbiology and soil structure. Our vineyards hold certifications for organic agriculture (ECOCERT), regenerative (ROC), and biodynamic (Demeter) practices. All our efforts are directed toward cultivating healthy soils, including composting, rotational grazing, and cover crops. We have also minimized soil tillage to encourage root development and beneficial bacteria, reducing the need for external fertilizers. Collectively, these practices help mitigate erosion, preserve organic matter, and boost soil biodiversity and fertility."

And according to the winery, the climate within the Tupungato mountain range at Gualtallary encourages organic farming. "Thanks to the [Mendoza] Uco Valley's dry climate and phylloxera-resistant sandy soils, organic farming at Domaine Bousquet, from day one, was not only possible, but desirable. Other factors that distinguish this landscape are the constant breezes from the Andes to the west, which help mitigate heat stress in this desert climate. Significant temperature differentials between day and night help enhance aromatics, while the sandy soils result in low fertility, desirable for vine stress and ideal for good drainage. With an average annual rainfall of just 8"/203 mm, groundwater from the Andes snowmelt is vital for vineyard irrigation. Time has shown that the roots of organically grown vines penetrate deeper, allowing greater access to water in times of drought. Not least, organic farming is decidedly better for the long-term well-being of the local environment as well as the people who tend the vines."

Domaine Bousquet Organic Rosé 2023 ($13)
This organic wine is an interesting composition of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Syrah, 10% Pinto Grigio, and 10% Viognier. Each grape variety provides input to the complex mouthfeel - strawberry, citrus, floral, some spice, and abundant acidity.

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Rosé 2023 ($18)
This wine is 100% organically grown Pinot Noir and after gliding through the floral and strawberry notes, the acidity and creamy texture resides.

Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rosé NV ($13)
This sparkling wine is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay with noticeable lemon and white grapefruit notes, some bready yeast, and similar texture as the Gaia. A bargain at this price point. 

Grape Spotlight: Anderson Valley Pinot Noir through Crosby Roamann

The illustrious Anderson Valley is located in the rolling hills of the northern California coastal region of Mendocino County, 110 miles northwest of San Francisco. It is the wine country we all used to know – approachable, intimate, uncrowded, and primarily owner-operated. -- Anderson Valley Wines

The Anderson Valley AVA encompasses a very narrow, low lying region situated ten miles from the Pacific and at the very northern end of California's prime winegrowing area. It is only one mile wide and 15 miles long covering approximately 57,600 acres (23,300ha) of vines. It is amongst the coolest of California's wine regions where the valley is positioned to allow ocean breezes and fog to cool the area. Rain is plentiful, particularly in the cooler months of November through to March. These conditions forced early commercial wineries into planting Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Riesling where in 1982, these three grapes accounted for 400 of the 582 acres then planted.  However, during the next decade and into the new millennium, growers increasingly experimented with Pinot Noir clones and soon that variety became a dominant force within the AVA. These clones could ripen reliably in the cool Anderson Valley climate particularly during it's hot days and cold nights.  

Crosby Roamann is a Napa Valley with an estate in Los Carneros but that also source's grapes from a range of AVAs for their Single Vineyard label.  The winery was founded by vintners Sean and Juliana McBride who produced their first Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in 2007 at a custom crush facility. Soon Sean was working harvests at White Rock Vineyards and learning winemaking under Christopher Vandendriessche. He spent five years at White Rock while simultaneously making wine at Michael Mondavi’s FOLIO winery for three of these years. In 2015, the couple opened Crosby Roamann in the Crusher District with the estate in Los Carneros.

While sourcing fruit from other regions, the playfully "redub" the vineyard's name to reflect ancient and modern Irish girl names based on Sean’s Irish heritage and their twin daughters. For instance the "Fiadh" for the Fiadh Vineyard in Anderson Valley refers to an Irish girl's name meaning "wild" and "untamed".  This "one-acre block of Dijon Pinot Noir clones is just outside the town of Boonville on the south end of the valley – a warmer climate for Pinot. Biodynamically farmed, the vines grow in a wild yet zen spot on clay silt loam, and grapes are harvested in early September". 

The 2019 Fiadh Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($38) is a bright and medium bodied wine starting with a sweet cherry aroma with a bit of black pepper that leads to a pleasant herbaceous and dark cherry profile.  The oak influences of vanilla are present but allow the fruit to dominate.  The finish provides enough tannins and acidity to lift the wine and allow for a lingering finale. A very nice wine. 

Catalan Wines USA Master Class -- D.O. Cava

There was plenty of sparkling wine on display during the Catalan Wines USA Master Class & Wine Tasting last month.  For an overview of the region and Master Class, please see Catalan Wines USA Master Class -- Catalunya's Grapes, Designations, and Wine-making History. Here, we will focus on D.O. Cava and the many expressions poured at the event.

D.O. Cava encompasses multiple areas within Catalonia but is almost 95% within Penedès. It was established in 1991 and highlights the traditional home to this sparkling wine, although today Aragon, Navarra, Rioja, Pais Vasco, Valencia and Extremadura have specific Cava demarcated areas.  The traditional grape varieties used in Cava were Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir now also being used. "Macabeo makes up around half of a typical Cava blend – not because of its flavor (it is quite bland), but because it represents a viticultural insurance policy. Macabeo vines bud relatively late in the spring, ensuring that their flowers and grapes are safe from early frosts. The interesting, slightly earthy flavors that distinguish Cava from most Champagnes are generally attributed to Xarel-lo grapes".  -- wine-searcher.com

Finca Ca n'Estella is a small, third generation operated, and family owned winery located northwest of Barcelona and based out of an 1800 winery and farmhouse. The estate is protected from the north winds by the Montserrat mountains and its proximity to the Mediterranean sea provides a temperate climate.  They poured the Cava Rabetllat i Vidal Brut Nature ($20) which is composed of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Macabeo, and 20% Xarel-lo. Winemaker Miquel Medall allowed this non-vintage Cava to mature two years in the bottle. The bready - yeasty aroma leads to tight effervescence due to the fine bubbles and a delicious dried fruit profile. 

Canals & Munné is another small winery located just outside of Barcelona that was founded in 1915 by Josep Canals Capellades, great-grandfather of the current oenologist Òscar Canals.  The winery's name arises from the union of Josep's son, Josep Mª Canals Casanovas and Dolors Torres Munné -  the parents of current manager Montserrat Canals Torres. They operate two wineries, the original 1915 facility dedicated to weekend wine tourism, and a newer facility located between the vineyards.  They poured a trio of sparkling wine starting with the Insuperable Brut ($16). This is a fresh and textured blend of Macabeu 40%, Xarel·lo 30% & Parellada 30% aged 25 months with a floral nose and a yeasty dried nuts profile. The Dionysus Brut Nature  ($18) is a blend of 30% Chardonnay, 60% Macabeo, and 10% Xarel-lo aged 22 months with another floral nose and a lengthy dry profile. Finally, the Lola Rose Pinot Noir – Brut ($25) is 100% Pinot Noir aged 20 months and has a delicious concentration of red fruits balanced with delicate and persistent bubbles. 

Castell d'Age poured a single Cava in the Anne Marie Brut Nature Reserva ($20). This is a non-vintage blend of 40% Xarel·lo, 40% Macabeu, & 20% Parellada that is aged a minimum of two years. The fruit from this delicious sparkling wine are grown in slate and clay-limestone soils from three estates located in the D.O. Penedès and situated on the southern slope of the Montserrat mountains. The winery is the result of three generations of woman, Aurèlia Figueras, daughter Anne Marie Comtesse who pioneered the introduction of organic farming, and granddaughter Olivia Junyent.

Covides is a cooperative that was founded in 1963 and is comprised of 600 grape growers across the Penedès region. These estates amount to over 2,000 hectares of vines spread out over 50 municipalities. The cooperative operates three winery facilities distributed evenly through Penedès to ameliorate the distances, means of transport, and transit time for the member growers. Since 2013, most of the vineyards are organically farmed and these vineyards cover the four major sub-terriors: Coastal Vineyards, Massif Vineyards (high active lime content ), Vineyards of the Plain, and High altitude vineyards. The Covides Vineyards Elocuente Brut ($12) is an excellent entry level sparkling wine, aged 13 months, with tight persistent bubbles providing a bready and fruity profile. The Covides Vineyards Elocuente Rosé ($13) is 100% Trepat -- an indigenous grape that is known to make fresh, berry-flavored sparkling wine. Exactly.  Duc de Foix is the Covides premium brand and the Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2017 ($50) is a stately blend of mostly Xarel·lo with lesser amounts of Macabeu and Parellada that is aged a minimum of 30 months in the bottle. There's abundant texture of toasted nuts with candied fruit and a long effervescent finish. 

One of my favorite sparkling wines was the Panot Gaudi Reserva Brut ($19) from Ferrer Wines. This is a blend of 40% Xarel·lo, 20% Macabeu, and 15% Chardonnay aged at least 18 months. It's intoxicating and not from the 11.5% alcohol; complex, tight bubbles, and lasting fruit and toasted bread.  This is probably what one would expect from Pedro Ferrer Noguer and one of the oldest wineries in the D.O. Cava -- Cavas Hill founded in 1887.

The final Cava wines, and apologies to any that I missed, were the premium trio from Agusti Torello Mata. This winery was born in Penedès in 1955 by the winery's namesake and today produces over 500,000 bottles of Cava each year. They source from 150 organic vineyards in the Valls d'Anoia-Foix where the grapes are hand harvested from at least 30-year-old vines. Today the winery is operated by his children -- Àlex, who is the winemaker, technical and viticulture director, and Gemma, who is the lawyer and administrator of the company. Their Rosat Trepart 2021 ($29) is 100% Trepat from 30 year old organic vines from the Obach Estate in Mediona, located 800m high with clay and slate soils. The wine is aged 19 months in the bottle and is dry with a charming red fruit profile with lasting effervescence. The Barrica 2018 ($50) is 100% Macabeu that was vinified six months in French oak and then aged four years in the bottle. It provides plenty of  a floral and fruity aroma, yeasty toasted notes, with a textured and creamy body, and lasting finish. The Kripta Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2016 ($130) is their flagship cuvee bottled in a distinct, amphora-shaped bottle. It is a blend of 45%, Macabeu (from Vinya Vicari planted in 1962), 35% Parellada ()from Vinya Lola planted in 1969, and 20% Xarel·lo (from Vinya Mercader planted in 1974). Each bottle is hand-riddled and disgorged and spends 84 months on the lees. Yes, seven years. The wine starts with fine and persistent bubbles leading to a complex nature and a silky texture. Expect a very long finish. 

Wines with Altitude: Domaine Bousquet from Gualtallary, Argentina

Imagine a 240 hectare wine estate located in the Andes foothills at an altitude of 4,000 feet above sea level.  The highest peaks in California's Sierra Nevada, Washington's Cascade Range, or many of Colorado's peaks are only 300-500 feet higher. In this environment, rainfall is scant, sunshine is plentiful, and the desert-like climate creates a massive 59° F day/night temperature differential. The area also has poor stony and alluvial soils that are interlaced with layers of sand and limestone. This diverse combination creates free-draining soils that, due to the already mentioned limited water availability, stress the vines.  The grapes react to these conditions by increasing skin tannins, concentrating flavor, and retaining acidity and aromas. 

The Domaine Bousquet estate is situated in the northern reaches of the Uco Valley, specifically in Gualtallary within the Tupungato mountain range. This massive Andean lava dome is one of the highest mountains in the Americas rising to 21,560 feet above sea level.  The winery's founder, Jean Bousquet, fell in love with the region during a vacation and returned in 1977 to plant this estate -- close to the very highest extremes of Mendoza's viticultural limits. There were many naysayers who doubted Bousquet's endeavor, but Jean believed "he’d found the perfect blend between his French homeland and the New World (sunny, with high natural acidity and a potential for relatively fruit-forward wines)". This feat was within the family winemaking tradition which goes back four generations in the South of France.  This tradition continued as Bousquet’s daughter, Anne Bousquet, and her husband Labid Al Ameri became investors and eventual owners of the family operation. And one last important feature, the estate is 100% certified organic.

Domaine Bousquet produces a range of still and sparkling wines released through almost a dozen brands leveraging the ability to plant multiple grape varieties such as Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot  Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and the focus of this post: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. We received samples of two Méthode Traditionnelle sparkling wines, the Méthode Traditionnelle Chardonnay-Pinot Noir Brut NV ($18) and Méthode Traditionnelle Pinot Noir-Chardonnay Brut Rosé NV ($18). The first grape in each listing accounts for 75% of the blend and as expected the Rosé had a more red fruit character whereas the Chardonnay dominate Brut was more citrus and floral. And both shared a bready - yeasty character. What was unexpected was the softness of the effervescence and their lasting nature as well as noticeable minerality in both wines. Gualtallary's limestone soils may have something to do with this. 

At $18 retail SRP, these are tremendous values which we plan to have on hand during our Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays. Cheers. 

Grape Spotlight: Codru PGI Moldovian Pinot Noir from Chateau Vartely

Winemaking has been an occupation in the Eastern European country of Moldova for the past seven thousand years starting with the Cucuteni-Trypillia culture – one of the oldest civilizations in Europe (6th – 4th centuries B.C.). Serious grape growing was introduced later by the Greeks and Romans and strengthened by the Christian monasteries during the Middle Ages. Winemaking halted for 300 years when the principality of Moldova was a vassal state to the Ottomans and was eventually reversed under the Soviets when the state became a leading supplier of cheap bulk wine to the rest of the USSR and satellite countries. Once independent in 1991, there have been public and private efforts to increase quality and become a tourist destination for European travelers.  

The Moldovian landscape is quite moderate in regard to topography and extreme weather.  Rolling hills provide sunlight and drainage while cool winters and warm summers rarely reach extreme levels that can damage vines or reduce fruit quality. Rainfall is also moderate, "completing a set of conditions almost perfectly suited to viticulture" (wine-searcher.com).

There are four Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) designations in the country: Codru, Ștefan Vodă, Valul lui Traian, and Divin. Codru PGI is a wine designation that covers roughly the central third of the Republic of Moldova, stretching from the border with Romania to that with Ukraine on the other side of the country. This region shares many of the overall conditions in Moldova where the climate is temperate continental, with mild short winters and long warm summers. Vineyard altitudes range from 150 to 400 meters above sea level and the region is fragmented by a network of valleys, ravines, ridges, hills, and cliffs. The most common soils are dark chernozem. This is very fertile, with high levels of humus, phosphoric acids, phosphorus, and ammonia. It can produce high yields due to its water storage capacity. Chardonnay accounts for the largest plantings of white wine so it's no surprise that its Burgundy compatriot Pinot Noir is a widely planted red wine grape. 

According to Wine of Moldova, "Château Vartely is considered a pearl of the Moldovan wine industry and the calling card of the Republic of Moldova".  The name Vartely originates from the name of the town Orhei which in Hungarian means “place of the fortress”, (vár + hely or fortress + place).  Château Vartely officially appeared on the market as early as 1996 while the Château Vartely Company brand was launched in 2004. The winery sits 50 kilometers from the capital Chisinau and farms 550 hectares of grapes -- mostly in the Codru PGI. 

I purchased the 2019 Codru Pinot Noir ($10.99) from MezeHub, attracted by the low price and Eastern European nature. The wine is light-medium bodied with abundant red berry fruit on the nose and palate. The tannins are very approachable with a slight black pepper spice and satisfying finish. 

The last two photos are courtesy of Wine of Moldova. 

Grape Spotlight: Oltrepò Pavese DOC Pinot Nero and Others

Lombardy is one of Italy's largest and most populous regions and is located in the north-central part of the country. It consists of five DOCG, 21 DOC, and 15 IGP titles with the Oltrepò Pavese DOC being one of the larger and better-known regions. Oltrepò  Pavese refers to Pavia across the Po -- or more meaningful - the area south of the Po River. The region lies in southwest Lombardy and shares many common features with neighboring Piedmont as both regions were once ruled by the House of Savoy.

Viticulture has been prevalent in Oltrepò Pavese for thousands of years as evidenced by the discovery of a fossilized caràsa, that is, a fossilized vine trunk, 25 cm long by 6 cm in diameter, found near Casteggio (Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese). And why not. According to wine-searcher.com, "the vineyards of the Oltrepo zone sit among the foothills between the Apennines and the river Po in the provinces of Alessandria, Genoa, and Piacenza. The vines benefit from an excellent microclimate (thanks to its proximity to the Po), well-drained soils rich in clay and calcareous marl, and a terroir often compared to that of Barolo".  In 1884 Oltrepò Pavese was home to at least 225 native vines, but today there are just a dozen that are the most widespread.

 
Last week I attended a fascinating lunch at Cafe Milano featuring wines from Oltrepò Pavese presented by Carlo Veronese, the director of the Consorzio Vini Oltrepò. Even though there are 20 classifications within Oltrepò Pavese, this tasting focused on the Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG, Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio, Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepo Pavese, and Sangue di Giuda dell'Oltrepo Pavese. And notice that the wines of Oltrepò Pavese are generally named from the vines from which they are made and not just the region.

 
Pinot Nero dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC
Oltrepò Pavese is considered the Pinot Nero (Noir) capital of Italy as more Pinot Nero is planted there than anywhere else in Italy. Interestingly, the original genotypes of Pinot Noir were already cultivated in the Oltrepò areas by the ancient Romans and may have been the source of Pinot Noir in the south of France. However, the current Pinot Noir vines derive from French selections that were planted after the Phylloxera epidemic. Pinot Nero can be labeled as a vintage wine or a Reserva with a minimum of two years of aging.

The Cantina di Casteggio Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2020 is a lighter style but with noticeable tannins and a little chewy mint.

The Dino Torti Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2019 was perhaps my favorite despite the interesting branding. It's floral with creamy red raspberries and cherries and a viscosity throughout.

The Mazzolino Pinot Nero Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC 2018 was the biggest of the reds, aged twelve months in oak and offering a tea and pepper aroma, a full-bodied interior, with a firm and lasting finish.

Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG
Metodo classico is Italy's version of Champagne's methode classique and Pinot Nero is dominant in all wines made under this title.  The sparkling wine can be made either as a white or rosé and 70 percent or more of the final blend must be Pinot Nero. This percentage increases to 85 percent for wines claiming the varietal title Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico Pinot Nero.  Picked at the early stages of skin ripeness, Pinot Nero displays a good balance of acidity and sugar required for these sparkling wines.

The Asburgico Oltrepò Pavese DOCG Metodo Classico Pinot Nero 2018 explodes in the mouth with textured citrus notes.

The Azienda Agricola Quaquarini Francesco Oltrepò Pavese DOCG Metodo Classico Pinot Nero 2014 needed a few minutes to open then the floral, white grapefruit and a little tropic fruit notes rushed out.

Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC
This title applies to still and frizzante white wines containing at least 85 percent Pinot Grigio.

The Vanzini Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Grigio DOC was an eye-opener on the region's richer style and orangish-colored versions of this varietal wine.

Sangue di Giuda dell'Oltrepo Pavese DOC
The title translates to "Blood of Judas" and applies to sweet red wines which can be still, frizzante (semi-sparkling), or spumante. Barbera and Croatina must each account for between 25 and 65 percent of any blend with Pinot Nero, Uva Rara, and Vespolina alone or in any combination, accounting for 45 percent. The intriguing and sometimes controversial name Sangue di Giuda means "Blood of Judah" or "Blood of Judas". 

The Losito & Guarini Sangue Di Giuda Dell'Oltrepò Pavese DOC, C'era Una Volta 2021 is a low alcohol (6%), full-bodied, and fresh wine where the sweetness is partially obscured by the abundant acidity.

Oltrepò Pavese Riesling
The Ca Di Frara Oliva Oltrepò Pavese Riesling DOC also provides a darker copper color with tropical and petrol notes.

Oltrepò Pavese Barbera
The Ca Montebello Oltrepò Pavese Barbera DOC 2020 is fruit-forward, and very friendly with a floral start and a slight mocha tail.

New Perspectives on Wines of Uruguay

Last week the Uruguay Wine Fall Tour landed in Washington DC where 16 producers poured several wines each at  La Cosecha (voted one of America's Top 50 Best Wine Retailers in 2021). The tour was sponsored by Uruguay Wine, the brand used by INAVI - Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura to promote Uruguayan wine around the world. During a previous tasting almost a decade ago, the emphasis was strictly on Tannat -- introduced into Uruguay in 1870 by Basque immigrants and at the time had represented one-third of all wine produced in that country.  And yes, there were several single-varietal Tannat wines and Tannat-based blends poured at this event. However, I was more impressed by the emergence of other grape varietals and stylistic changes. 

Uruguay resides in the same parallels as its neighbors Argentina & Chile, but also South Africa, Australia, and New Zealand. The soils are mostly clay, there's plenty of sunshine, and the vineyards are primarily situated near the Rios de la Plata (across from Buenos Aires) or near the Atlantic Ocean. Think cool coastal breezes and balanced and structured wines. There's a relatively long wine-making tradition in the county as immigrants from Spain, Italy, and Germany brought their wine-making traditions and wine grapes with them. 

The first new trend I noticed was the expansion of Albariño. The grape was introduced into Uruguay by the Bouza Winery incorporating the family's Spanish roots from Galicia. They also farm several other winegrapes in five vineyards from the metropolitan areas of Montevideo and Canelones to the oceanic-influenced Maldonado region. These are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Tempranillo, and Tannat. The last three comprise their Mount Vide Eu - a full-bodied and structured wine providing a robust mouthfeel. Yet, it was their tropical fruit and saline-driven Albariño 2022 that piqued my interest in discovering who else was producing wines from this grape variety.

Bodega Garzon was the next station I visited and they poured a coastal and racy Albariño Reserve 2022 that featured grapefruit and refreshing acids and minerality.  In addition, their Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 was very provencal - elegant with layers of strawberries. 

Another excellent example was provided by Familia Deicas and their Atlantico Sur Albariño.  As the name suggests, the grapes are grown no further than 30 kilometers from the coast where the cooler temperatures allow for slow ripening and fresh wine. This version has similar acidity and saline as the Bouza but shows more floral and citrus notes.  Familia Deicas has been very innovative throughout the years by producing the first Sauternes-style noble rot wine in Uruguay, the first ISO 9001 Quality Certification in South America, the first Tannat Liqueur in Uruguay, the first Tannat produced according to the Bordeaux Cru Garage techniques in Uruguay, and many others.

Winemaker Santiago Deicas has continued this innovation through his  Bizarra Extravaganza brand. This project began in 2014 when he started making craft beer and inspiration from the purity of that beverage triggered the concept of producing natural wines. Two of these wines were presented at the tasting: the Vino Natural Amphora and Vino Natural Orange. The former is made from 100% Tannat and aged two months in Amphora and 10 months in concrete tanks. The latter is composed of Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng and is aged nine months in used French oak and concrete tanks. Both are truly unique with the Amphora showing fruit-forward Tannat.

Another fruit-forward innovative wine was the Pizzorno Maceracion Carbonica Tannat 2022. The wine was fermented using carbonic maceration in concrete tanks where, in a carbon dioxide-rich environment, most of the juice is fermented while still inside the grape. The resulting wine is low in tannins and showcases the grape's fruit - in this case, rich raspberries and cherries. The 4th generation at Pizzorno Family Estates also poured a very elegant Pinot Noir Reserve 2020 and a sturdy Tannat Reserve 2020 with the grapes from all of these wines grown in the country's largest wine region: Canelones. 

Another new perspective occurred while visiting the table for Bodega Cerro Chapeu. This 10th-generation family started producing wine in Catalonia in 1792 and in Uruguay in 1930. They are located in the Cerro Chapeu of the Rivera wine region which is located in northern Uruguay - very close to the Brazilian border.  This continental region is "characterized by its vineyards on the sides of hills and slopes, around 220 meters high, and its deep red sand soils with very good drainage and the seasons are drier with longer sun hours. Ideal for late-maturing varieties like Trebbiano and Malvasia. These are the grapes that form the Castel Pujol Folklore Pet Nat. The grapes are fermented separately and right before complete fermentation, they are blended and bottled. I was not expecting a fun wine like this. They also poured a delicious still version of the Pet Nat, the Castel Pujol Folklore Blanco, with plenty of fruitiness and surprisingly body. Finally, they continued to stretch traditional winemaking with the Castel Pujol Folklore Tinto -- 80% Tannat co-pigmentation with 20% Petit Manseng first press skins. What a mouthfeel. 

A similar co-fermentation occurred with Alto de la Ballena and their 2018 Tannat - Viognier Reserve. This is an 85% - 15% co-fermented blend aged for nine months in American oak barrels. The Viognier softens the Tannat and provides a pleasant floral aroma. This 20-year-old winery is located in the southeast and seaside region of Maldonado and also produces a luscious Cabernet Franc Reserve - silky and juicy in nature

Perhaps the most delicious Cabernet Franc was provided by Bracco Basca and their 2021 Cabernet Franc. Layers of dark cherries, structured, and a long satisfying tail. The winery was founded in 2005 by Darwin Bracco and Mirtha Bosca "but its vineyards have been in the family for 5 generations. Originally from Piedmont, Italy, the family moved to Uruguay and established in Atlántida region to continue the wine tradition".  This winery is also releasing several innovative products such as the first dry Muscatel in Uruguay as well as a Merlot - Ugni Blanc Claret. Fun, fantastic wines. 

Looking forward to visiting all these wineries in person one day. Cheers. 

A Trip to the Assisi DOC & Tili Vini Family Organic Winery

Germanic descendants of the Tili family have been farming the hills of Assisi since the 12th century. They came to the area after fighting for the Holy Roman Emperor Federico Barbarossa's conquest of northern Italy. Afterward, Frederic I granted the soldier rights to grow olives and grapes which continued through successive generations. In 1978 the Tili Vini Family Organic Winery was formed.

The vineyards are composed of medium-textured calcareous soils, poor in organic matter, but rich in skeleton and mineral salts. The porous soil and lack of groundwater enrich the organoleptic content of the grapes with particular saline components.

The winery produces Assisi DOC and Umbria IGT certified organic wines. In fact, the Tili family was instrumental in petitioning for the creation of the Assisi DOC, granted in 1997.

Our tour of Assisi included a side trip to Tili Vini and the tasting experience was exceptional.  Their new tasting room overlooks the Umbrian valley and provides a comfortable setting to sample their wines. And during this tasting, they paired a lunch of local cheeses and charcuterie with half a dozen generous pours of wine. 

Their Assisi DOC Grechetto is delicious, full-bodied, stone fruit and pineapple. The unoaked Assisi DOC Pinot Noir was also highly appreciated with its easy yet noticeable tannins and juicy cherries.  By far the most impressive was the 2012 Assisi DOC Sacreterre, 100% Sagrantino.  The tannins had developed into a velvety chewy texture full of dark fruit and chocolate.  Exceptional.  And besides the Grechetto,  Matthew's other favorite was the Muffa Reale, a late harvest dessert wine gushing forth stone and tropical fruits.

Don't miss out on this winery if visiting Umbria or Assisi. Cheers.