Showing posts with label Cognac. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cognac. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 14, 2026

Spirits for the World Cup Semifinals: July 14, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup matches.  Today's match for July 11th:


France vs Spain

Courvoisier VS Cognac  (France)
I would guess that most people have or have access to Courvoisier VS -- an intentionally  mass‑market, fruit‑forward Cognac designed for accessibility and mixability rather than depth or long aging.  As a refresher, Cognac is divided into VS, VSOP, and XO categories, each defined by minimum aging requirements, with VS representing the youngest and most straightforward style.  

For the VS, Maison Courvoisier sources heavily from the contrasting Fins Bois and Borderies crus. Fins Bois, the largest of the crus, is located in the outer ring surrounding the central Cognac region and is known for producing round, aromatic eaux‑de‑vie with fresh orchard‑fruit character. Borderies, the smallest cru just north of the Charente River, has a reputation for floral, slightly honeyed distillates that mature quickly. Together they create a profile centered on apple, pear, soft florals, and light vanilla rather than the heavier oak or spice often associated with competitors like Hennessy or Rémy Martin. 

The production approach reinforces this fruit‑first identity. Fins Bois distillates contribute immediacy and gentle sweetness, while Borderies adds violets and a smooth, rounded texture. Courvoisier VS is aged briefly to preserve freshness rather than build oak weight. The influence of wood remains light: subtle vanilla, mild spice, and a clean structure that keeps the spirit approachable. On the palate, Courvoisier VS shows orchard fruit, vanilla, and soft floral notes with minimal tannin or oak density. The finish is short and clean, making it well suited for cocktails where Cognac provides warmth without dominating the other ingredients.

French Twist Cocktail

Ingredients

  • 1 ¾ parts Courvoisier VS
  • ½ part Lyon Orange Curaçao
  • ½ part fresh lemon juice
  • 3 parts Fever-Tree® club soda

To prepare, build all ingredients except soda water into the shaker and add ice. Shake and strain over fresh cobbled or crushed ice into a Double Old Fashioned glass. Top with soda water then garnish with a lemon twist

Casals Vermouth (Spain)
I first met the folks at Familia Torres at a Spain's Great Match tasting that was hosted by Foods and Wine from Spain. At the end of the event, I remember sitting on a patio sipping a chilled glass of their Casals Vermouth. And this World Cup semifinal match provides a chance to revisit this vibrant and approachable red vermouth.

The Torres family has produced wine in Penedès (Catalonia) since the 19th century, and Casals reflects their broader philosophy of pairing regional grape varieties with Mediterranean botanicals.  According to the winery, "the name Casals pays tribute to the family’s second surname, symbolizing the continuation of the legacy of those who first created vermouth. In Catalan, 'Casals' also refers to a place where family and friends gather, or a home that has welcomed many generations."

The base wine comes from Roussane, Marsanne,  and Chenin Blanc, as well as other native Spanish varieties like Parellada and the ancestral variety Selma. The base is then blended with white wine that has been aged for three years in oak barrels.  This method gives the vermouth a natural full bodied fruit core before any botanicals are added. 

What are ancestral varieties? Over 40 years ago, Familia Torres launched a remarkable and exciting project to research and recover ancestral grape varieties, namely, varieties that were thought to have gone extinct following the phylloxera plague in the late 19th century. Since the project began, more than 50 varieties have been rediscovered, six of which have a great winemaking potential. The blend for Casals Vermouth includes one of these, called Selma.

The botanical blend centers on twenty botanicals -- which include orange and mandarin peels, olive leaves, cinnamon, cardamom, clove, thyme, rosemary, lily root and wormwood -- creating a profile that is aromatic without becoming heavy. Casals uses a maceration approach that preserves clarity in the base wine, allowing the botanicals to support rather than dominate. The result is a vermouth with red‑fruit tones, orange peel, light herbal bitterness, and a clean mid‑palate. Its structure is intentionally moderate: enough sweetness to round the edges, enough bitterness to keep the finish focused, and enough aromatics to make the wine expressive without leaning into intensity.

Saturday, July 4, 2026

Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: July 4, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup Knockout Round matches.  Today's matches for July 4th. 


Canada vs Morocco

Quartier Lafrance Liqueur d’Orange Brandy (Canada)
This is one of the signature spirits produced at Domaine Lafrance, a family estate in Saint‑Joseph‑du‑Lac, Québec. Known primarily for apple‑based distillates and ciders, the domaine also maintains a small but focused brandy program built on traditional methods: copper pot distillation, slow maturation, and careful blending. Quartier Lafrance reflects that approach, combining estate‑made apple brandy with natural orange components to create a liqueur rooted in the domaine’s orchard identity.

The base spirit comes from apples grown on the estate, fermented and distilled to a clean profile that shows gentle fruit, light spice, and subtle orchard aromatics. To build the liqueur, the brandy is blended with orange macerations and natural citrus essences, allowing the brightness of the orange and citrus to integrate gradually with the underlying apple character. Aging takes place in neutral vessels, a deliberate choice that preserves freshness and prevents oak from overshadowing the citrus.

Quartier Lafrance shows clear orange zest, candied citrus, and soft apple notes on the nose. The palate is balanced and straightforward, with orange peel, light sweetness, and a rounded apple‑brandy backbone. The finish is clean, with lingering citrus and gentle warmth. Within Domaine Lafrance’s lineup, it serves as a complementary expression — a citrus‑forward liqueur built on the same orchard‑driven foundation as their brandies and eaux‑de‑vie. 

Morocco
I will repeat from the June 29th post that Morocco’s national distilled spirit is Mahia ("water of life"), an aniseed-flavored eau-de-vie traditionally distilled from figs or dates and historically associated with the country’s Jewish community. 


Paraguay vs France

Cognac Drouet Fine Mélina (France)
Cognac Drouet is a family estate with 74 acres spanning both Grande and Petite Champagne, yet every bottle they release comes solely from Grande Champagne fruit. This reflects their core philosophy: the premier cru’s chalk‑rich soils and high‑acid Ugni Blanc produce eaux‑de‑vie that mature slowly and develop the most expressive character. Like other traditional Cognac families, Drouet relies on copper pot stills, small‑batch distillation, long élevage in seasoned oak, and hands‑on bottling — methods that have defined their work for generations.

Fine Mélina offers a lighter interpretation of this same terroir. Distilled without wine lees, it emphasizes clarity and freshness over weight. The spirit was aged entirely in older casks that previously held eaux‑de‑vie, allowing it to evolve gently without strong oak influence. This approach highlights fruit, finesse, and subtle aromatic development rather than structure or power.

The 2012 vintage shows prune, chocolate, and soft spice on the nose, followed by a palate marked by delicacy, length, and clean Grande Champagne character. Where the estate’s VSOP leans into depth and framework, Fine Mélina provides a nuanced counterpoint — an alternative view of the same vineyard sources and traditional methods.

Paraguay
I will repeat from the June 29th post that Caña paraguaya would be the appropriate selection. It is a sugar cane spirit distilled from fermented sugar cane juice (mosto), sometimes with added honey.

Tuesday, June 30, 2026

Spirits for the World Cup Knockout Round: June 30, 2026

Over the years I’ve built a small global library of distilled spirits and fortified wines, and the World Cup Knockout Round feels like the perfect excuse to dig back into it - researching the producers, revisiting the bottles, and tasting my way through the bracket. Starting with the June 29th matches, I’ll be recommending one or two spirits for each game, whether they’re already on my shelf or simply deserve a place in the lineup. Click here to view the other World Cup Knockout Round matches. Today's matches for June 30th. 


Ivory Coast vs Norway

Ivory Coast
(For historical information only.)The traditional distilled spirit of the region is Koutoukou (also spelled Koutouk), a potent, clear, home-distilled brandy made from fermented Bandji (palm wine) or sugarcane molasses.  Koutoukou typically has an alcohol content of 40–60% ABV, possesses a hot and estery flavor with hints of banana and grass, and is traditionally served at village feasts and urban eateries (maquis).  Although the production and sale of Koutoukou have been officially banned in Ivory Coast since 1964 due to health and safety concerns, it remains widely available through informal channels. 

Norway
Aquavit (also spelled akvavit or akevitt) is the national distilled spirit of Norway, often referred to as the country's "water of life." It is a Scandinavian spirit distilled primarily from potatoes and flavored with aromatic herbs and spices, most notably caraway and dill. By law, "Norwegian aquavit" must be distilled from at least 95% Norwegian potatoes and aged in oak casks for a minimum of six months, which gives it a golden color and complex flavor profile involving notes of cumin, citrus, and vanilla.


France vs Sweden

Brenne French Single Malt Whisky (France)
It’s easy to forget that one of the most quietly influential single malts of the past decade didn’t come from Scotland, Ireland, or the U.S., but from a tiny pocket of Cognac country — where a former ballerina and a fourth‑generation distiller teamed up to create Brenne French Single Malt. Founded in 2012 by Allison Parc, Brenne was built on a simple but novel idea: that French terroir, Cognac‑seasoned oak, and estate‑grown barley could produce a completely different single malt — softer, fruit‑driven, and unmistakably French. 

The whisky begins with 100% estate‑grown malted barley, fermented and distilled in classic Charente copper alembics normally reserved for eau‑de‑vie. That choice alone sets Brenne apart: alembic distillation yields a rounder, more textural spirit with deep fruit esters. Maturation unfolds in two stages — first in French Limousin oak, then in ex‑Cognac casks, where residual grape spirit, rancio characters of caramelized nuts, and slow oxidative aging build layers of tropical fruit, patisserie notes, and silky sweetness. Nothing about this process is hurried; everything is shaped by Cognac’s long‑form approach to time. 

Brenne opens with ripe banana, mango, toasted notes, and floral honey on the nose. The palate is expressive: crème brûlée, apricot, vanilla, soft spice, and a gentle almond‑pastry richness that feels more like dessert than dram. The finish is long, warming, and fruit‑forward, with lingering cocoa, citrus oil, and Cognac sweetness. In my opinion, Brenne remains one of the most distinctive single malts in the world.

Sweden
Like Norway, Sweden’s national spirit is aquavit. Produced across regions like Skåne and Halland, Swedish aquavit is shaped by grain or potato bases and botanicals that echo Scandinavian cuisine, resulting in a crisp, savory profile traditionally enjoyed during festive meals and cultural toasts.


Mexico vs Ecuador

Cambio Tequila Añejo (Mexico)
Cambio Tequila Añejo begins with a philosophy that feels radical in modern celebrity tequila: a return to historic Mexican‑styled methods that once defined the category. John des Rosiers built Cambio around the idea that tequila should retain its terroir through every step of production. Whole highland Blue Weber agave from the Ruvalferti estate are harvested and cooked the same day in stone ovens for four slow days, then crushed by a traditional tahona to preserve sweetness, texture, and delicate aromatics often lost in autoclaves or diffusers. This foundation — whole‑agave cooking, slow heat, stone milling — sets the stage for an Añejo rooted in Jalisco’s agricultural soul rather than industrial efficiency.

Fermentation deepens that identity. Instead of stainless steel, Cambio uses a 14‑day, low‑temperature fermentation in wooden vats of Tennessee white oak and Mexican oak, fed by volcanic‑filtered deep‑well water and a four‑yeast system that builds fruit, spice, and texture. Even malolactic fermentation appears, softening edges and adding creaminess. Distillation follows the same ethos: a 12‑hour run in an Alembic copper still to exactly 50% ABV, with no heads‑and‑tails cutting and no filtration of oils — a musto muerto carrying every nuance of the agave.

Aging completes the transformation. Cambio Añejo rests 15–24 months in three types of French oak, gaining warm vanilla, roasted agave, gentle baking spice, and lifted fruit while avoiding heavy barrel dominance. Even the label honors heritage, crafted from artisan amate paper using Maya‑ and Aztec‑era techniques.

Ecuador
Ecuador’s defining spirit is aguardiente_de_caña, a rustic sugarcane distillate rooted in Andean and coastal traditions. Often produced by small‑scale trapiches, it carries a bright, earthy sweetness and a raw, expressive character that mirrors Ecuador’s agricultural heritage, appearing in local celebrations, communal gatherings, and regional cocktails.

Thursday, June 4, 2026

Drouet Cognac and the Character of Grande Champagne

Today is World Cognac Day and thus a good excuse to revisit two cognacs from Cognac Drouet. Their 74 acres stretch across both Grande and Petite Champagne near the town of Cognac, yet every bottle they release comes exclusively from Grande Champagne fruit. This choice reflects their philosophy: a belief that the premier cru’s chalk‑rich soils, high‑acid Ugni Blanc, and slow‑maturing eaux‑de‑vie offer the most expressive foundation for long‑aged Cognac. Like the families featured in earlier WineCompass tastings -- Pierre Vallet with its meticulous cellar work and Famille Naud with its revival of historic stills -- Drouet remains firmly rooted in the historical methods that defined Cognac. Copper pot stills, small‑batch distillation, long élevage in seasoned oak, and hands‑on bottling are simply the way the family has always worked.

That commitment becomes immediately clear in their Grande Champagne VSOP. Although VSOP requires only five years in oak, Drouet ages this spirit between five and ten years, allowing the fruit to deepen and the structure to soften without losing the tension that defines the cru. The grapes come entirely from estate parcels, harvested and distilled in small 240‑liter batches by Patrick Drouet, then bottled largely by hand. The result is a VSOP that carries the richness and intensity associated with Grande Champagne’s "thoroughbred" reputation—ripe fruit, polished texture, and a sense of precision that reflects the estate’s patient approach.

Fine Mélina offers a different view into the same terroir. Distilled without wine lees, it shows a lighter, fresher profile, emphasizing clarity over weight. The spirit was aged exclusively in older casks that had previously held eaux‑de‑vie, a choice that allows the Cognac to evolve gently without strong oak influence. The 2012 vintage reveals a delicate and rich aromatic profile, with prune, chocolate, and subtle spice on the nose, followed by a palate marked by finesse and length. Where the VSOP leans into structure, Fine Mélina leans into nuance, offering an alternative counterpoint within the same estate style.

Taken together, these Cognacs show a producer deeply committed to the character of Grande Champagne and to the slow, deliberate craft that has defined the region for generations. Drouet’s work captures the essence of what makes Cognac compelling: a respect for land, a patience with time, and a belief that tradition still has something vital to say.

Saturday, March 12, 2022

A Cognac Refresher with Pierre Vallet

The latest Hopwine fair provided a great opportunity to refresh my knowledge of Cognac in terms of geographic location (80 miles or so north of Bordeaux) grapes, crus, and terrior through samples from Pierre Vallet. This is a brand of Famillie Vallet, a six-generation estate founded in 1837 through their primary estate Château Montifaud.  The family farms over 125 hectares in two of the six crus of the cognac area: in Grande and Petite Champagne. The soils in these centrally located regions contain a large proportion of limestone, a soil type favored by the predominate grape variety Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano).  The wine made from Ugni Blanc is characterized by high acidity and low alcohol which has encouraged distillation. This generally occurs twice in copper pot stills with aging protocols using Limousin or Tronçais oak barrels.  Before bottling, the spirit is cut to 40% abv.

The production capability of Chateau Montifaud is controlled by the output of this estate, the Pierre Vallet brand augments their supply of Ugni Blanc from vineyards in the other four Cognac crus: Borderies, Fin Bois, Bon Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. The soils in these crus are similar to the two Champagne crus just a little less chalkiness.  

Cognac regulations define four categories that reflect the time each has spent in the barrel. VS (Very Special) cognacs must contain brandy no younger than two years old; VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) must be at least four years old; XO (Extra Old) must be at least 10 years old; and the newest category, XXO must be at least 14 years old.

During a virtual session tasting through the Pierre Vallet samples, I learned that the two Famillie Vallet brands have unique methods of implementing the Cognac regulations that may date to Pierre Vallet himself -- the son of founder Augustin.  Wine intended for the older Cognacs is distilled with lees providing additional body to the spirit. Younger Cognac is expected to be fresher so the wine for these categories is double-distilled without lees. In either case, the spirit weighs in at 70% and is cut with water between 64 and 68% depending on the cognac's target age. They have learned that cutting too fast introduces a soapy taste so between 60% to 41.5% of the spirit is cut 5% on a designated schedule - three months for younger, 12 months for older. Once reaching 41.5% abv, water that has been aged in barrels is added drop by drop until 40% is reached. This provides a deeper color.

Pierre Vallet Cognac VS
The youngest spirit is three years instead of the mandated two and this is an extremely fresh, floral, and fruity cognac - characterized by a noticeable body.  The local favorite is VS, tonic, and lime. 

Pierre Vallet Cognac VSOP
The youngest spirit is between six and eight years instead of the mandated four, aged in new French casks, and the 5% reduction every three months. Still floral with pear and cinnamon starting to stand out from this more complex cognac. Moving into the sipping cognac territory. 

Pierre Vallet Cognac XO
The youngest spirit is 20 years instead of the mandated 10 years. Dried fruits on the nose followed by an intensity and explosion of flavors. Dry spices like cinnamon and cloves lead to a long finish. This cognac has been aged in mature barrels with a 5% reduction every six months.

Pierre Vallet Cognac XXO
The youngest spirit is 30 years instead of the mandated 14 years and was aged in mature barrels with the 5% reduction every 12 months. Aromas of vanilla and licorice with prune and other dried fruits on the palate. Think of finesse throughout the extended finish. 

Monday, July 19, 2021

Famille Naud -- Cognac's Gin, Vodka, & Rum Distillery

In 1989 Jean-Michel Naud established the Distillerie de la Tour and the Famille Naud brand based out of a family distillery that had been repurposed from an old grain mill in 1923. This was the historic Cognac Distillerie Perrier located on the island of Pinthiers where Emile Perrier had crafted original liqueurs for decades. Famille Naud was able to resuscitate five very old traditional 2,500 liter Charente stills to produce a range of Cognacs and soon after to expand to become the first vodka distillery in Charentes. 

A recent Hopwine expo displayed the extent of more expansion as the kit included three cognacs (VS, VSOP & XO), a French still vodka, a distilled Gin, a 15-year-old Ron de Panama, and two Spiced Rum Hidden Loots. It also included two Pineau des Charentes - the special fortified wines of Cognac. All of these products were interesting, well crafted, and excellent representatives of their respective types. 

Cognac NAUD VSOP France - Charente-Maritime 
NAUD VSOP cognac is a blend of Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Petite Champagne (30%) that is double distilled in traditional small copper pot stills over direct flames then aged for a minimum of 4 years in oak barrels. Before bottling, older Eaux-de-vie (10 to 15 years old) are added to the cognac to add complexity and length.   Expect dried fruit and baking spices on the nose with vanilla and orange added to the palate. 

Cognac NAUD VS France - Charente-Maritime 
NAUD VS cognac is made with a blend of two crus: Bon Bois and Petite Champagne (10%). The latter is aged in new oak casks which convey finesse and structure to the cognac. The Bons Bois imparts notes which are fruity (peach, pear) and floral (vine flower). The Eaux-de-vie is double distilled in traditional small copper pot stills and is aged separately, for a minimum of 2 years in small oak casks of 350 and 400L. The cognac is then aged a third year in larger casks in order to harmonize the flavors. Expect a more toasted profile with honey, vanilla, and peaches.

Cognac NAUD XO France - Charente-Maritime
The NAUD XO cognac is made with a blend of Petite Champagne, Grande Champagne and Fins Bois. Grande Champagne is the most prestigious cru in the Cognac region and is noted for the limestone where the vines are planted. This "conveys an incredible palette of flavors to NAUD XO cognac, where one can perceive the famous note of 'Rancio' (walnut, forest) so typical of extra old Cognacs".  The youngest Eaux-de-vie within the NAUD XO cognac has been aged between 10 and 12 years. Older Eaux-de-vie (35 to 40 years old) is added before bottling to add even more complexity. Earthy, yet smooth with candied orange and baking spices, tobacco, and leather. 

French Vodka NAUD France - Charente-Maritime 
The NAUD Vodka is produced by fermenting French winter wheat that was grown northeast of Paris which is then distilled five times in a column still and then a sixth time in a typical Charentais copper pot still.  Before bottling it is cut to proof using estate spring water that was naturally filtered through limestone grounds. The result is a deeply textured and incredible smooth vodka with no burn. 

Distilled Gin NAUD France - Charente-Maritime
The NAUD Distilled Gin is produced using 12 botanicals which are first infused into the mash for 7-10 days and then distilled in a “vapor bain-marie” in small traditional copper pots stills.  This is a complex gin, exploding with citrus, floral elements, tea, and spices before the juniper finally arrives at the finish. 

Ron Naud Panamá 15 y.o Panama - Arco Seco
This Extra Old Rum is the result of a collaboration between Panamanian and Charentais Master Distillers united by Pierre Naud. The sugar cane was grown on the Peninsula de Azuero (Arco Seco), distilled, and then aged in American oak casks.  A very complex rum with sweet honey, nuts, and vanilla.  

Spiced Rum - Hidden Loot Original Panama - Arco Seco
This rum starts is distilled from molasses where the sugar cane was harvested from the Arco Seco region of Panama and then aged in Bourbon casks. Vanilla and sweet bananas are dominant with some honeyed nuts. 

Spiced Rum - Hidden Loot Dark Reserve Panama - Arco Seco
This rum starts as a 2-year-old rum distilled from molasses in a column still where the sugar cane was harvested from the Arco Seco region of Panama. Then ten fruits and spices are added such as both sweet and bitter orange, coconut, vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon, and bird chili pepper. The oranges are most prevalent followed by some toasted coconut and vanilla. 

Pineau des Charentes - Reserve Or France - Charente-Maritime
Pinthiers Pineau des Charentes pays tribute to the distillery's ancestor, Emile Perrier, and is a 5 year cask aged blend of Cognac and grape juice ( Ugni blanc, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon). This is an amazing fortified wine, dense with a floral nose, dried apricots, honey, candied fruits and nuts, and some baking spices. 

Pineau des Charentes - Reserve Rubis France - Charente-Maritime
Pinthiers Pineau des Charentes pays tribute to the distillery's ancestor, Emile Perrier, and is a 5-year cask-aged blend of Cognac and grape juice ( Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon). Another wonderful fortified wine marrying flavors of black fruit and cocoa with nuts and dried fruits. 

Monday, September 30, 2019

From Aveleda - the Adega Velha 6 Years Old Reserva Brandy

Flying home from Lisbon last month I sounded my pockets (1) and found a few extra Euros in which I converted to a 500ml bottle of Adega Velha 6 Years Old Reserva Brandy ($22). This grape brandy is made in the far northwestern DOC of Vinho Verde from a mixture of indigenous grapes: Vinhão, Azal Tinto, Barraçal, and Espadeiro.

Specifically, these grapes were grown in the granite and sandy loam soils at the Quinta da Aveleda vineyard. This site is located in the hilly sub-region of Sousa which enjoys a generally Mediterranean climate with Atlantic influences. The Aveleda winery was founded in 1870 and is currently managed by the 5th generation of the family and is the largest producer and exporter of Vinho Verde wine.

The wine is distilled using an alembic Charentais still - a similar Cognac still used for the Lepanto Brandy de Jerez Solera Gran Reserva. The brandy is then aged six years in Limousin oak casks - the same oak preferred in the Cognac region and popular with brandy makers because of it's wide grains. This translates to a more tannic profile than tight-grained woods.

Despite these tannins, this is a soft brandy, some floral and woody aspects in the nose with a fresh nutty and honeyed core. Love the finish, long with little burn. Cheers.

(1)  One of my favorite lines from Moby-Dick.