Grape Spotlight: Neusiedlersee Zweigelt

The creation of the Zweigelt variety in the 1920s, a crossing between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, only really gained recognition after the Second World War. Nowadays, Zweigelt is the most widespread red wine variety in Austria and can be found in suitable sites in all wine-producing regions. -- Austrian Wine 

The finest examples hail from Burgenland – particularly the Neusiedlersee. -- wine-searcher.com

Zweigelt was developed by Dr. Friedrich "Fritz" Zweigelt in 1922 and the grape inherited desirable characteristics from both of its parents. Saint-Laurent provides bright, Pinot-like cherry aromas and the ability to create silky, elegant wines; whereas, Blaufrankisch provides spiciness and acidity. Since both parents are capable of creating wines with deep, rich purple-crimson coloring, it is no surprise that Zweigelt wines tend to be very richly colored.

In the vineyard Zweigelt buds later than Saint-Laurent and ripens earlier than Blaufrankisch and thus provides an insurance policy in the vineyard. While the other two varieties are susceptible to harsh weather conditions (spring frost and autumn rain respectively), Zweigelt vines typically dodge these seasonal threats. Zweigelt also has the advantage of being a high-yielding variety, further contributing to its popularity with winegrowers.

Burgenland is a large wine-producing region on Austria's eastern border that occupies a narrow strip of land that runs along the Danube River. On its eastern side is the border with Hungary and to the west lies the most eastern foothills of the Alps. Burgenland is home to four Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) appellations: from north to south; Neusiedlersee, Leithaberg, Mittelburgenland, and Eisenberg. Within each of these zones, any wines which do not conform to the particular classification are labeled with the Burgenland appellation. 

AustrianWine

Although Zweigelt is planted in all Austrian wine regions, it is in Burgenland where it thrives.  This is particularly true on the eastern side of Neusiedlersee Lake -- the Neusiedlersee DAC -- where the region's sunny, continental summers meet the Lake's microclimate. The lake stores summer heat from the Pannonian Plain, an expansive, warm area that covers much of Hungary and eastern Austria, effectively lengthening the ripening season into autumn. In essence, the Neusiedlersee DAC is topographically more aligned with Hungary than with much of the rest of Austria.  The soils within Neusiedlersee itself are varied, ranging from the low-lying, botrytis-inducing foggy lakeshore slopes to the drier, sandy-loam and gravel inclines beyond.  In total, the DAC covers nearly 6,700 hectares (16,500 acres) of vineyards, mostly centered on the northern and eastern shores of the lake.

The Neusiedlersee DAC has been recognized since the 2012 vintage and is synonymous with fruity, harmonious red Zweigelt wines. These wines must be at least 12 percent ABV and can be aged in either oak barrels or stainless steel. The designation of origin also includes a Reserve category. To qualify for the DAC Reserve title for Zweigelt, the wine must be 100 percent Zweigelt, must attain 13 percent ABV, and at annual tasting panels show extra depth and power, and aromas of oak aging.

Andau is a city and area lying steps from the Hungarian border and experiences the hottest summers in Austria.  The soil is dominated by "gravel with iron components and a few sand layers; a very warm soil type with good water drainage capacity. The rocks are able to store the warmth during the day and give it off during the night allowing the berries to grow quicker and more homogenous. The high content of iron in the ground gives the wines a fine spiciness." 

Domaine Andau is a cooperative of 90 families located in Burgenland that farms 660 ha of vineyards within the Neusiedlersee. The cooperative was founded in 1959, a difficult economic time in Austrian history, but coming off a remarkable yield the previous year. The families banded together in order to produce and sell this harvest. The domaine has grown into one of the largest cooperatives in Austria supporting numerous small family businesses.  I received a package of their wines through a Hopwine fair and the 2019 Zweigelt (€9.50) is a classic zweigelt. It has a powerful red cherry aroma that transitions to a darker plum and mildly spicy interior. The finish shows soft tannins but a lengthy acidic tail. 

Zantho was formed at the "beginning of the millennium by Josef Umathum, a successful winemaker from Frauenkirchen, and oenologist Wolfgang Peck, together with chosen members from the cooperative Domaine Andau". This subset of the cooperative cultivates 80 ha of vines in the Neusiedlersee. The name Zantho is mentioned in the oldest dated document from 1487, which refers to the founding of Andau, as Andau is mentioned as Anthwaw or in Old Magyar Zantho (s).  Their 2021 Zweigelt (€8.90) was made through hand-harvesting, with no herbicide use, and fermented in stainless steel tanks while aged for 10-12 additional months in stainless steel. The wine is very fresh with an extremely strong cherry aroma, chewy plums and red cherries, surprising tannins, and fresh acids. 

Grape Spotlight: ICP Côtes de Gascogne Tannat with Domaine de Malartic

The Côtes de Gascogne is an IGP title covering the Gers administrative department of South-West France. Grapes have been cultivated in the region at least since Roman times and today the IGP consists of 12,000ha of vineyards. [IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée), is a quality category of French wine, positioned between Vin de France and Appellation d'Origine Protegée (AOP). The category superseded Vin de Pays in 2009. ]  The region consists of several AOC appellations (Armagnac, Madiran, and St-Mont), but the IGP designation allows winemakers to expand beyond limited geographic boundaries and more rigid wine-making requirements.

The "terroir" across Côtes de Gascogne changes moving east to west with the eastern region more maritime from proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and changing to a continental climate moving inland. According to wine-searcher,com, "In the east, summers are warmer and drier, and the clay-limestone soils retain water more effectively. Nearer the coast, loose, sandy soils with good drainage and high rainfall characterize the vineyards".  

White wine grapes dominate the region with over 90% of planting, but for the lesser-grown red wine grapes, Tannat is a major player.  The grape is thought to have originated in the rugged Basque regions between France and Spain which may explain its inherently tough vines, thick leaves, and resistance to diseases. In general, Tannat grapes contain high natural acidity and aggressive tannins leading to wines that age nicely. Tannat wines are also characterized by deep color and high alcohol.

The Domaine de Malartic is a family estate belonging to the Périssé family and located in Gers. They produce a range of Côtes de Gascogne, Floc de Gascogne and Bas-Armagnac wines. For five generations the Périssé family has grown grapes on 68ha of vines on slopes rising off the Adour River in Bas-Armagnac. This land consists of plateaus featuring sand, reddish clay, silt, and pebbles with the vineyards extending over hillsides below the Pyrenees. They grow Colombard, Gros Manseng, Ugniblanc, Tannat, Cabernets, and Merlot with the Tannat and Merlot key ingredients to two of the wines I received in a recent Hopwine virtual fair. 

Domaine de Malartic Côtes de Gascogne Orignes Rouge 2019 Tannat
This 100% Tannat is very complex and intriguing with a white pepper aroma, rustic chewy cherries, and noticeable tannins.

Domaine de Malartic Côtes de Gascogne Mosaic Rouge 2020 Merlot / Tannat
This blend is rounder with a chalky and herbaceous character with earthy dark fruit and finishing with woody tannins. 

Grape Spotlight: Mosel's Bernkasteler Doktor & Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling

Viticulture started in the Mosel in the 2nd century when Romans planted vines on the steep slopes bordering the Mosel River. These slopes can reach 68-75 degrees and adds to the picturous charm of this wine region.  As the river meanders from its confluence with the Rhine River to Germany's border with Luxembourg and France, it passes through famous wine villages along the valley such as Brauneberg, Erden, Graach, Piesport, and Bernkastel. 

Bernkastel is located right on the banks of the Mosel river, between Graach (to the north) and Piesport (to the west). This is the very heart of the Mittelmosel ("middle Mosel") and is arguably Germany's top wine-growing location. The Mosel river forms a hairpin bend here, inside which lies a finger of land dominated by steep, towering, vineyard-lined slopes. -- wine-searcher.com. 

This sub-region shares many characteristics of the larger Mosel region, a long growing season featuring a cool, northern continental climate. Yet there are several factors that facilitate the ripening of grapes. The vineyard slopes optimize the vines' exposure to the sun while simultaneously solar radiation is reflected off the rivers' surface. And the dark slate soil absorbs heat during the day and radiates it back to the vines at night.  The disadvantages of such steep vineyard sites and porous soil are that it requires hand harvesting and in winter, after heavy rain, workers must carry back soil that has run off the vineyards.  

One of Bernkastel's most famous vineyards is Bernkasteler Doktor -- a small (3.25 acre / 1.8ha) plot that directly borders the village of Bernkastel. The Riesling vines are planted on a south-southwest exposure and a steepness between 60 and 70 percent -- providing ideal conditions for all-day sunshine. The vines are also predominantly ungrafted as the grey slate provides protection against phylloxera and average 60 years of age with some over 100 years old.  

Parcels of the Bernkasteler Doktor vineyard have belonged to members of the Thanisch family for more than 200 years and the family has a documented winegrower pedigree since 1654. Today Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch is now up to its twelfth generation and is also proud of their female tradition. The name “Wwe. (widow) refers to Katharina Thanisch who was only 30 years old when her husband, Dr. Hugo Thanisch, died. In 1996 Sofia Thanisch became the fourth successive female family to operate the winery and will be succeeded by her daughters, Juliane and Christina. 

The grapes from the Bernkasteler Doktor vineyard are handpicked, slightly squeezed, and then left for 14 hours to macerate before being gently pressed. The wine is then naturally fermented without any addition of cultured yeast or enzymes for a period of four to five months. After fermentation, the wine matures for several more months on the lees in order to gain more stability and complexity. A recent Hopwine salon provided me an opportunity to sample two of their Bernkasteler Doktor wines along with another Bernkastel Riesling.  

Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef Allemagne - Mosel Berncasteler Doctor 2020 Riesling
Lots of senses in play here. Petrol, herbaceous, spicy, stone fruit, minerals, and lively acidity.  

Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef Allemagne - Mosel Berncasteler Doctor 2020 Riesling Grosses Gewächs (GG)
A beautiful wine, full-bodied and complex with citrus and ripe apples finishing with refreshing acidity. 

Weingut Witwe Dr. H. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef Allemagne - Mosel Bernkasteler Riesling Kabinett 2020 Riesling Bernkasteler Kabinett
The non-Doctor but still excellent with creamy citrus and stone fruit, racy minerality,  and lively acidity. 

A Cognac Refresher with Pierre Vallet

The latest Hopwine fair provided a great opportunity to refresh my knowledge of Cognac in terms of geographic location (80 miles or so north of Bordeaux) grapes, crus, and terrior through samples from Pierre Vallet. This is a brand of Famillie Vallet, a six-generation estate founded in 1837 through their primary estate Château Montifaud.  The family farms over 125 hectares in two of the six crus of the cognac area: in Grande and Petite Champagne. The soils in these centrally located regions contain a large proportion of limestone, a soil type favored by the predominate grape variety Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano).  The wine made from Ugni Blanc is characterized by high acidity and low alcohol which has encouraged distillation. This generally occurs twice in copper pot stills with aging protocols using Limousin or Tronçais oak barrels.  Before bottling, the spirit is cut to 40% abv.

The production capability of Chateau Montifaud is controlled by the output of this estate, the Pierre Vallet brand augments their supply of Ugni Blanc from vineyards in the other four Cognac crus: Borderies, Fin Bois, Bon Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. The soils in these crus are similar to the two Champagne crus just a little less chalkiness.  

Cognac regulations define four categories that reflect the time each has spent in the barrel. VS (Very Special) cognacs must contain brandy no younger than two years old; VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) must be at least four years old; XO (Extra Old) must be at least 10 years old; and the newest category, XXO must be at least 14 years old.

During a virtual session tasting through the Pierre Vallet samples, I learned that the two Famillie Vallet brands have unique methods of implementing the Cognac regulations that may date to Pierre Vallet himself -- the son of founder Augustin.  Wine intended for the older Cognacs is distilled with lees providing additional body to the spirit. Younger Cognac is expected to be fresher so the wine for these categories is double-distilled without lees. In either case, the spirit weighs in at 70% and is cut with water between 64 and 68% depending on the cognac's target age. They have learned that cutting too fast introduces a soapy taste so between 60% to 41.5% of the spirit is cut 5% on a designated schedule - three months for younger, 12 months for older. Once reaching 41.5% abv, water that has been aged in barrels is added drop by drop until 40% is reached. This provides a deeper color.

Pierre Vallet Cognac VS
The youngest spirit is three years instead of the mandated two and this is an extremely fresh, floral, and fruity cognac - characterized by a noticeable body.  The local favorite is VS, tonic, and lime. 

Pierre Vallet Cognac VSOP
The youngest spirit is between six and eight years instead of the mandated four, aged in new French casks, and the 5% reduction every three months. Still floral with pear and cinnamon starting to stand out from this more complex cognac. Moving into the sipping cognac territory. 

Pierre Vallet Cognac XO
The youngest spirit is 20 years instead of the mandated 10 years. Dried fruits on the nose followed by an intensity and explosion of flavors. Dry spices like cinnamon and cloves lead to a long finish. This cognac has been aged in mature barrels with a 5% reduction every six months.

Pierre Vallet Cognac XXO
The youngest spirit is 30 years instead of the mandated 14 years and was aged in mature barrels with the 5% reduction every 12 months. Aromas of vanilla and licorice with prune and other dried fruits on the palate. Think of finesse throughout the extended finish. 

Famille Naud -- Cognac's Gin, Vodka, & Rum Distillery

In 1989 Jean-Michel Naud established the Distillerie de la Tour and the Famille Naud brand based out of a family distillery that had been repurposed from an old grain mill in 1923. This was the historic Cognac Distillerie Perrier located on the island of Pinthiers where Emile Perrier had crafted original liqueurs for decades. Famille Naud was able to resuscitate five very old traditional 2,500 liter Charente stills to produce a range of Cognacs and soon after to expand to become the first vodka distillery in Charentes. 

A recent Hopwine expo displayed the extent of more expansion as the kit included three cognacs (VS, VSOP & XO), a French still vodka, a distilled Gin, a 15-year-old Ron de Panama, and two Spiced Rum Hidden Loots. It also included two Pineau des Charentes - the special fortified wines of Cognac. All of these products were interesting, well crafted, and excellent representatives of their respective types. 

Cognac NAUD VSOP France - Charente-Maritime 
NAUD VSOP cognac is a blend of Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Petite Champagne (30%) that is double distilled in traditional small copper pot stills over direct flames then aged for a minimum of 4 years in oak barrels. Before bottling, older Eaux-de-vie (10 to 15 years old) are added to the cognac to add complexity and length.   Expect dried fruit and baking spices on the nose with vanilla and orange added to the palate. 

Cognac NAUD VS France - Charente-Maritime 
NAUD VS cognac is made with a blend of two crus: Bon Bois and Petite Champagne (10%). The latter is aged in new oak casks which convey finesse and structure to the cognac. The Bons Bois imparts notes which are fruity (peach, pear) and floral (vine flower). The Eaux-de-vie is double distilled in traditional small copper pot stills and is aged separately, for a minimum of 2 years in small oak casks of 350 and 400L. The cognac is then aged a third year in larger casks in order to harmonize the flavors. Expect a more toasted profile with honey, vanilla, and peaches.

Cognac NAUD XO France - Charente-Maritime
The NAUD XO cognac is made with a blend of Petite Champagne, Grande Champagne and Fins Bois. Grande Champagne is the most prestigious cru in the Cognac region and is noted for the limestone where the vines are planted. This "conveys an incredible palette of flavors to NAUD XO cognac, where one can perceive the famous note of 'Rancio' (walnut, forest) so typical of extra old Cognacs".  The youngest Eaux-de-vie within the NAUD XO cognac has been aged between 10 and 12 years. Older Eaux-de-vie (35 to 40 years old) is added before bottling to add even more complexity. Earthy, yet smooth with candied orange and baking spices, tobacco, and leather. 

French Vodka NAUD France - Charente-Maritime 
The NAUD Vodka is produced by fermenting French winter wheat that was grown northeast of Paris which is then distilled five times in a column still and then a sixth time in a typical Charentais copper pot still.  Before bottling it is cut to proof using estate spring water that was naturally filtered through limestone grounds. The result is a deeply textured and incredible smooth vodka with no burn. 

Distilled Gin NAUD France - Charente-Maritime
The NAUD Distilled Gin is produced using 12 botanicals which are first infused into the mash for 7-10 days and then distilled in a “vapor bain-marie” in small traditional copper pots stills.  This is a complex gin, exploding with citrus, floral elements, tea, and spices before the juniper finally arrives at the finish. 

Ron Naud Panamá 15 y.o Panama - Arco Seco
This Extra Old Rum is the result of a collaboration between Panamanian and Charentais Master Distillers united by Pierre Naud. The sugar cane was grown on the Peninsula de Azuero (Arco Seco), distilled, and then aged in American oak casks.  A very complex rum with sweet honey, nuts, and vanilla.  

Spiced Rum - Hidden Loot Original Panama - Arco Seco
This rum starts is distilled from molasses where the sugar cane was harvested from the Arco Seco region of Panama and then aged in Bourbon casks. Vanilla and sweet bananas are dominant with some honeyed nuts. 

Spiced Rum - Hidden Loot Dark Reserve Panama - Arco Seco
This rum starts as a 2-year-old rum distilled from molasses in a column still where the sugar cane was harvested from the Arco Seco region of Panama. Then ten fruits and spices are added such as both sweet and bitter orange, coconut, vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon, and bird chili pepper. The oranges are most prevalent followed by some toasted coconut and vanilla. 

Pineau des Charentes - Reserve Or France - Charente-Maritime
Pinthiers Pineau des Charentes pays tribute to the distillery's ancestor, Emile Perrier, and is a 5 year cask aged blend of Cognac and grape juice ( Ugni blanc, Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon). This is an amazing fortified wine, dense with a floral nose, dried apricots, honey, candied fruits and nuts, and some baking spices. 

Pineau des Charentes - Reserve Rubis France - Charente-Maritime
Pinthiers Pineau des Charentes pays tribute to the distillery's ancestor, Emile Perrier, and is a 5-year cask-aged blend of Cognac and grape juice ( Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon). Another wonderful fortified wine marrying flavors of black fruit and cocoa with nuts and dried fruits. 

Grape Spotlight: Coteaux Champenois Pinot Meunier with Champagne Demière

Still wines in the prestigious sparkling wine region of Champagne? That is what is covered by the Coteaux Champenois appellation that shares the same geographic region as Champagne. These two regions are located at the northern latitude of 49°N which is at the northern edge of France's vineyard-growing areas and thus experience the lowest average temperatures than any other French wine region. According to wine-searcher.com, "the majority of its vineyards are planted in a temperate maritime climate with slight continental influences, particularly in the southeast. These climatic conditions, combined with the region's latitude (48 to 49 degrees north), mean that the wines produced under the Coteaux Champenois appellation are, like their sparkling counterparts, dry and light-bodied with naturally high acidity". 

Production regulations for Coteaux Champenois allow for smaller geographical indicators on the label of Coteaux Champenois wines, all the way down to small, local (cadastral) titles. This is apparent in one of our wines today, from the "les Accaties" locality.

Pinot Meunier is one of the seven approved grape varieties in Coteaux Champenois and basically shares the same DNA fingerprint as Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and other Pinot grapes. The word Meunier is French for "miller", and refers here to the "floury" appearance of the underside of the vines' leaves.  Generally in Coteaux Champenois, Pinot Meunier is planted in regions that are too cold for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to grow fruitfully.  In this regard, Meunier adds even more acidity and tartness to both still and sparkling wines. 

Champagne Demière is a sparkling wine producer that also releases still wines using the Coteaux Champenois regulations. In the Hopwine program, they showcased their innovated winemaking and aging techniques utilizing traditional wooden presses, egg-shaped vats, and a "champagne-styled" solera. This third-generation family domain operates estates around the village of Fleury la Rivière at the edge of the Montagne de Reims Champagne subregion. The terroir is distinguished by clayey-sandy soils, and of course, its famed calcareous subsoils including maritime fossils dating back to the Lutecian era. 

Champagne Demière  France - Champagne Coteaux Champenois Solera Venerable 100% Meunier
This "Vénérable" Coteaux Champenois Blanc is the oldest wine from the estate with the solera system dating back to 1978. Each year, if the quality of the vintage allows, the solera is augmented with 20% of the wine for that vintage. The original solera was stored in a wooden vat but has hence been transferred to stainless steel.  This is a complex wine with, green apples, lemons, and peaches associating with dried nuts. There's also a distinct tartness that sizzles with the intense acidity. 

Champagne Demière  France - Champagne Coteaux Champenois Ataraxy 100% Meunier
This Ataraxy Rosé, Coteaux Champenois originates from old vine Meunier plots located in the Fleury-la-Rivière locality "les Accaties".  The wine is aged 10 months in oak and is bottled in its natural state (no filtering and no fining). This is a fantastic rosé, starting with a peach aroma that leads to creamy and textured raspberries with noticeable saline. It is that fresh saline that drives my desire for more of this one. 

Barbera d’Asti Through the Wines of Vinchio Vaglio

This landscape covers five distinct wine-growing areas with outstanding landscapes and the Castle of Cavour, an emblematic name both in the development of vineyards and in Italian history. It is located in the southern part of Piedmont, between the Po River and the Ligurian Apennines, and encompasses the whole range of technical and economic processes relating to the winegrowing and winemaking that has characterized the region for centuries. Vine pollen has been found in the area dating from the 5th century BC, when Piedmont was a place of contact and trade between the Etruscans and the Celts; Etruscan and Celtic words, particularly wine-related ones, are still found in the local dialect. During the Roman Empire, Pliny the Elder mentions the Piedmont region as being one of the most favourable for growing vines in ancient Italy; Strabo mentions its barrels." -- Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato - UNESCO

Barbera d’Asti is one of the most famous wines from the Piedmont region of north-western Italy, focusing on soft and approachable styles of Barbera. In 1959 the cooperative Vinchio Vaglio was created, representing 192 family wine growers and 450 hectares.  Located in the Piedmont Monferrato above, the members of Vinchio Vaglio witnessed their Barbera d’Asti becoming a DOC in 1970 and upgrading to its current DOCG classification in 2008. 

Map courtesy of UNESCO.

"The DOCG catchment area is located in the hilly areas of the Asti and Alessandria provinces in eastern Piedmont, where the region shares its borders with Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna. The vineyards which produce Barbera d'Asti wine are typically situated on hilly terrain, ranging in altitude anywhere from 90 to 300 meters (300ft to 1,000ft). The territory spans a relatively large area that adjoins the production area of Barbera d’Alba to the northeast. In 2018 3,384 hectares (8,358 acres) were recorded for the appellation. Production in the following year was just over 16 million liters, equivalent to just under 1.8 million cases." -- winesearcher.com.

Through the Hopwine program, we tasted several wines from Vinchio Vaglio, all 100% Barbera and reflecting unique vineyards sites within the region. For instance, the Vigne Vecchie (Old Vineyards) label designates a program started by Giuliano Noè with the purpose of safeguarding historical vineyards.  The program sources Barbera grapes from within the cooperative that are at least 50 years old.  The "I tre Vescovi" (The three bishops) brand is made from grapes grown in the “core zones” of the UNESCO World Heritage “Vineyard Landscapes of Piedmont.” This name refers to the area where the borders of the towns of Acqui Terme, Alessandria, and Asti meet and where according to legend the bishops of these three dioceses used to meet on this neutral ground to hold discussions. 

Barbera d’Asti D.O.C.G. Superiore I Tre Vescovi 2018

The 100% Barbera wine is sourced from core zones of the UNESCO World Heritage Vineyard Landscapes of Piedmont. It is aged in 75 hl large French oak casks and barrique for 12 months followed by an additional month in stainless steel tanks and six months in the bottle before release. It starts with a vibrant floral and mint aroma which leads to a juicy and textured body elevated by the approachable acids and tannins. 

Barbera d’Asti D.O.C.G. Vigne Vecchie 50° 2018
This 100% Barbera celebrates the winery's 50th Anniversary and is from the Vigne Vecchie - Old Vineyards project. This wine was aged only in stainless steel, no oak, in order to maintain the true characteristics of the grape. This wine is fantastic - floral and herbaceous with cherry barnyard earthiness and sufficient tannins regardless of oak. 

Nizza Riserva D.O.C.G. Laudana 2016
Bricco Laudana is the name of a south-facing ridge of hills between Vinchio and Mombercelli in which this Barbera is sourced. The sandy soils with a relatively small content of clay produce grapes with elevated aromas and structure; whereas the south-facing exposure and mild winds provide conditions that lengthen the growing season.  The "Nizza" refers to a philosophy combining innovation and tradition which in this case leads to 18 months of aging in new oak and second and third-year French barrique. The wine then rests in cement tanks for another month prior to bottling, followed by six months of bottle aging before release. Expect healthy dark cherries, sizzling acidity, and chewy tannins. 

Barbera d’Asti D.O.C.G. Sorì dei Mori 2019
This relatively young Barbera is sourced from grapes with the core UNESCO zone and is aged for only six months in cement tanks prior to bottling, followed by three months of bottle aging. Once again, no oak. Expect a very fruit-forward pleasant wine with enough rustic character to remain interesting. 

Sud-Ouest France, Fronton, Gaillac, & IGP Comte Tolosan Through the Wines of Vignobles Arbeau

Sud-Ouest France (south-West, France) is a large territorial zone stretching just southwest of Bordeaux to the Atlantic Ocean and bordering the Pyrenees to the south.  It incorporates several administrative regions, diverse geographic areas, and multiple wine grapes and styles. This includes sweet wines from Jurancon and Monbazillac; tannic, full-blooded reds from Cahors (Côt aka Malbec) and Madiran (Tannat); sparkling wines from Gaillac; and a wide range of dry white wines.

Wine Scholar Guild

According to wine-searcher.com, "The soils, climates, and topography of the South West are as wide-ranging as its wines. The presence of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea means that much of the region has a maritime climate, but there are inland areas that make use of the drier, hotter summers created by their more continental climate. The Garonne, Dordogne, Lot, and Tarn rivers bring alluvial soil types (clay, sand, gravel) to much of the region. Other vineyard areas, such as Irouleguy and the wider Bearn are also set on the steep slopes and foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, offering a variety of stone types, along with varying altitudes and aspects".

A recent Hopwine exhibition included a couple wineries from the Sud-Ouest starting with Vignobles Arbeau. The winery and estate (Château Coutinel) are located in the village of Labastide Saint Pierre, within the AOP Fronton, with the village located 42km north of Toulouse and about equidistant between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. They also range beyond AOP Fronton to other South-West domains: AOP Gaillac, IGP Comté Tolosan, and IGP Côtes du Tarn. Our friends at Grape Experiences have a post concerning the winery's history and signature Négrette grape. 

AOP Fronton is an appellation to the north of Toulouse known for its rustic red wines (around 85 percent of production) in addition to smaller amounts of rosé. At least 50 percent of any Fronton vineyard must be planted with the Negrette grape (40% of any blended wine). Since the berries are small and tightly bundled, they are susceptible to powdery mildew and grey rot. Thus, the vines prefer hot, dry growing conditions and thrive in Fronton's dry, semi-continental climate. It is also particularly fond of the region's acidic, sandy clay boulbène soil type. 

Chateau Coutinel France - Sud-Ouest AOC Fronton Rosé 2020
This is a blend of 70% Négrette, 15% Syrah, and 15% Gamay grown on boulben, sandy-silt, and sometimes gravely soils.  This is a pleasant wine, candied cherry aroma, velvety texture, and lifting acids.

Chateau Coutinel France - Sud-Ouest AOC Fronton 2019
Same blend and soil types as the rosé showing fresh sizzling raspberries. Poprocks?

Chateau Coutinel Négrette / On L'appelle Négrette France - Sud-Ouest Fronton 2019
100%  Negrette grown on same soil types. This is a delicious wine, juicy and dense blackberries, some licorice, with suitable tannins and acids.

IGP Comte Tolosan is a large sub-region in the Sud-Ouest and encompasses 12 administrative departments, including the sub-regions of Jurançon, Cahors and Armagnac. The IGP label provides a geographical classification to wines that do not classify for the AOC-level appellations due to the grape variety or winemaking style. "Most IGP-related viticulture takes place in the center of the basin, along the course of the Garonne river. Old alluvial terraces provide well-drained, rocky environments for the vines, allowing for good flavor concentration in the grapes and deep, healthy root systems".

One popular grape in the IGP and other sub-regions is Braucol, a member of the Carmenets family and originating in the Spanish Basque Country. It is thought to have migrated to the region via pilgrims traveling the Way of Saint James. Specifically, it was spread by the Benedictine monks of Madiran and Conques who had recognized its rusticity allowing its cultivation in the Pyrenees and Aveyron. A synonym is Fer Servadou translating to wild and keeps well because it's a lambrusque (wild vine) and is highly resistant to mold. 

Domaine De Coutinel France - Sud-Ouest IGP Comté Tolosan Braucol 2020
This 100% Braucol wine begins with slight pepper but retains a soft elegance that carries through the finish.

AOP Gaillac is a historic wine-producing region located northeast of Toulouse and covers 64 communes spread out for roughly 20km (12 miles) from the town of Gaillac on the Tarn river. A further nine communes within the appellation lie on the other side of the town of Albi, on the eastern edge of the main winegrowing area. 

Duras – Fer – Syrah is the classic Gaillac wine blend with the Fer referring to Braucol. Together these three varieties make up at least 60 percent of any Gaillac red or rosé wine. Duras is an ancient grape variety, thought to have been introduced to France by the Romans more than 2000 years ago. In Sud-Ouest France, notably around Gaillac, it produces well-structured red wines full of color and alcohol.

Domaine Vaillieres France - Sud-Ouest AOP Gaillac 2019
This blend of 50% Braucol, 25% Duras, and 25% Syrah is from grapes from clay and limestone soils on the right bank of the Tarn River. It is very rustic, with a spicy-stoney character accentuated with a strong tannic backbone. A knockout. 

Grape Spotlight: More Côtes du Jura Savagnin with Pinot Noir

In a previous post on the Grape Spotlight thread Jura Savagnin & Vin Jaune, I related the Vin Jaune oxidative winemaking practice and the intriguing Jura region and because of the Hopwine program, I'm able to expand further with wines from Domaine Noir Freres.  Jura's is a cool climate with warm, relatively dry summers and cold winters, and the majority of Jura's vines are planted on south-facing slopes -- to absorb as much of the sun's rays. A minority of vineyards are located in the more mountainous areas of eastern Jura, where heights can reach p to 4,500ft (1370m). However, the majority of vines are planted in the slightly lower-lying land in the west which average 1,000ft (305m).

"It should come as no surprise that the key soil types here are Jurassic limestone and marlstone. The Jurassic period was named after Jura because the region's limestone mountains are representative of the geological developments which occurred between 145 million and 200 million years ago. The name of L'Etoile, the village which is home to one of Jura's most distinctive appellations, is said to be derived from the star-shaped marine fossils which characterize its limestone-rich soils (etoile is French for 'star'). Chablis and the upper Loire Valley are built on a similar geological structure". -- wine-searcher

DalGobboM - Own work CC BY-SA 3.0

Although our package didn't include a Vin Jaune, it showcased three of Domaine Noir Freres' most prolific grape varieties.  Limestone = pinot noir and the Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir - 2018 is exceptional. The structure is solid, surrounded by light cherries and decent tannins. Similar to the family's Poligny vineyard being located in the heart of Jura and saturated in limestone and marlstone. Pre-phylloxera, red wine grapes dominated the region, and Jura Pinot Noir may move the ratio closer to older times. 

That being said, Savagnin Blanc is the region's signature grape and it provides a spicy and funky profile to 100% varietal or blended wines. Domaine Noir Freres banishes the grape to 12 to 24 months in oak for the Côtes du Jura Cuvée " Creux d'enfer" - 2018 Savagnin Floral and expect a vibrant floral aroma. The wine has a Roussanne-ish quality with great depth. And the 24-month aged Côtes du Jura Cuvée Tradition - 2018 blended with Chardonnay has similar Roussanne pungent perfume qualities with major spicy and nutty notes. I would love a 750ml of this lady. 

Wine Regions: IGP Méditerrannée & Isle Saint Pierre

IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) is a French wine category that superseded Vin de Pays in 2009 and lies between Vin de France and Appellation d'Origine Protegée (AOP) on the wine quality scale.  According to Wine-searcher.com, "the IGP category is intended to benefit both consumers and wine producers. It provides consumers with clarity about a wine's provenance, while producers are empowered to make wine outside the constraints of traditional AOC laws. The most obvious freedoms are the higher permitted yields and a more comprehensive list of approved grape varieties".

The Méditérranée IGP covers wines that are produced over a large swath of territory of southeast France encompassing Provence wine region, the island of Corsica, as well as smaller areas in the Loire and Rhône valleys. Most vineyards can be found in the hills and valleys of the Alpine foothills as the higher altitude provides an excellent ripening situation with plentiful sunlight and cold nights. A large proportion of Méditérranée IGP wines are rosé made in the typical Provençal style -- lightly pressed. 

One of our Hopwine packages was sent by Isle Saint Pierre, an almost hundred-year-old winery that was founded by Pierre Chassaing in 1927 as the southernmost vineyard in the Rhône valley. As the name suggests, the vineyard and winery are located on an island in the Rhône, just 15km away from the river's mouth. Today, Patrick Henry, Marie-Cécile, and their children (third and fourth generations of winegrowers) farm 230-hectares planting a range of grape varieties unhindered by AOP regulations. These include Merlot, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Carménère, Muscat Petits Grains, Arinarnoa, Sauvignon Blanc, Tannat, Vermentino, Colombard, Malbec, Sangiovese, and Soreli. 

Some of these grapes were represented in the Hopwine package,  particularly in the IGP Méditerrannée « Depuis 1927 » Rosé - 2020 which is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Arinarnoa, Petit Verdot, Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah. I could go with a full 750ml of this wine at any time. The light color is deceptive as the wine provides a creamy sour cherry flavor. 

The IGP Méditerrannée Ripisylve Rosé Tannat - 2020 was just as compelling showing a candied fruit aroma leading to the same creamy but more fruit-forward wine. 

Another complex blend arrived with the IGP Méditerrannée « Depuis 1927 » Blanc - 2020, comprised of Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Rolle, and Muscat. On the first impression, I wrote "bursting of sunshine" - which stayed consistent from nose to tail. 

The final IGP Méditerrannée in the packages was the IGP Méditerrannée « Depuis 1927 » Rouge - 2020, another complex blend of Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Carménère, Arinarnoa. This last grape, and also found in the rosé, was bred in 1956 by crossing Tannat with Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was my favorite, showing earthy dark cherries, mint, a full mouthfeel, and creeping tannins. Very nice. 

One last note, although not a Méditérranée IGP and subject of this post, but if you are intrigued by creamy lemons look for the Vin de France Soreli - 2019.

Grape Spotlight: Coteaux du Giennois Sauvignon Blanc

The Loire Valley is a major wine region in western France that follows the course of the Loire river as it meanders through France, from the inland hills of Auvergne to the plains on the French Atlantic coast near Nantes. The "Upper Loire" sub-region is comprised of many appellations all with one common denominator - their proximity to the river. These appellations include Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, Orleans, and our subject: Coteaux du Giennois. This appellation consists of fourteen parishes around the town of Gien and resides midway between Orléans and Sancerre. 

According to Loire Valley Wines, the vines in the Coteaux du Giennois are planted on siliceous or limestone slopes on old river terraces along the Loire and experience a continental climate with little ocean influence.  Light-bodied red wines are produced in the AOC using Gamay or on occasion Pinot Noir, but white wines are the main attraction consisting of 60% of output.  And this features almost exclusively Sauvignon Blanc.

We recently received samples through the Hopwine program from one Coteaux du Giennois producer, Domaine de Villargeau.  In 1991 two brothers, Jean-Fernand and François, cleared old vineyard parcels of flint-based soils with the supposition that this type of soil would "allow for a full expression of Sauvignon Blanc".  These hillsides had been abandoned a century ago during the phylloxera crisis but provided south-southwest slopes that order to maximum sunshine. A decade after the initial planting, Jean-Fernand's son Marc joined the team as well as his brother Yves when Jean-Fernand and François retired. Today the Domaine has 23 hectares of vines planted along the Loire River, 80% of which is Sauvignon Blanc planted on flint, limestone, and marl soils. This allows the winemaking team to produce five unique cuvées expressing both the grape and the soil. 

We received three of these cuvées through Hopwine and they each showed various degrees of minerality and lemon zest. 

Domaine de Villargeau Coteaux du Giennois Villargeau blanc 2019
Sauvignon Blanc from 70% flint terroirs and 30% limestone clay. It shows light citrus, saline, with a bright and lasting finish. 

Fernand & Sons Coteaux du Giennois 2018
This cuvée pays homage to their grandfather "Fernand", who created the original Domaine in 1920. The is Sauvignon Blanc from flint terroir on a flint subsoil and shows intense minerality, even salt, with tart lemon and a fresh lasting finish. 

Domaine de Villargeau Coteaux du Giennois Sans Complexe 2019
Sauvignon Blanc harvested from marle soils and expressing itself with "crispiness, fruitiness, and minerality". The wine also provides depth and a full lemon mouthfeel. A lovely wine. 

Miss Vicky Wine from Château des Moriers, Fleurie, Beaujolais

After a hiatus, we are continuing our Hopwine series from samples received over the summer and highlighting excellent Gamay wines made at Château des Moriers in Fleurie, Beaujolais and branded as Miss Vicky Wine.

Beaujolais is located in eastern France, immediately south of Burgundy, and is best known for its Gamay wines through Beaujolais Villages, Beaujolais Nouveau, and the ten Beaujolais crus - subregions recognized as the finest in Beaujolais. One of these outstanding areas is Fleurie often referred to as "The Queen of Beaujolais".  

"Fleurie is in the center of the ten Beaujolais crus. It lies just south of Moulin-à-Vent and Chénas and to the north of Morgon. Chiroubles lies just to the west. Vineyards face south and southeast overlooking the Saone River valley and are shielded from cold northwesterly weather systems by the hills to the west of the Beaujolais region. The region receives abundant sunshine hours as the grapes are slowly cooled by gentle influences from the Mediterranean Sea in the south. This ensures that ripening is slow and steady, leading to a balance of acidity and flavor in the grapes.  

Fleurie vineyards are generally planted on pink granite soil. But variations in textures and additional soil components give rise to different styles of wine. On the higher slopes within the appellation, the soils are made up of coarse, dry sand. This absorbs and reflects heat, aiding the ripening process. Wines produced from these vineyards are known for their delicate aromas. Vineyards lower down the slopes tend to have a higher proportion of water-retaining clay. This gives wines from these sites a slightly denser, more-structured style of wine." (1) 

Vines were first planted in Fleurie by Benedictine monks during the early Middle Ages. More recently, in 2005, Gilles Monrozier took over the nine-hectare family vineyard  -- a plot of sand and pink granite first planted with grapes by his ancestors 200 years ago and located in far northern Fleurie bordering Moulin-à-Vent.  More recently Gilles' daughter Anne-Victoire, a wine blogger, developed the Miss Vicky Wine brand in order to first highlight her family's wines and eventually other French winemakers and regions. 

 

Fleurie o Joie 2018

The wine is 100% Gamay from grown in different lots in the vineyard in front of the château.  Floral and fruit-forward.

Fleurie Fleurs des Champs 2018

The wine is 100% Gamay from grown in different lots in the vineyard in front of the château. It contains bright floral notes with earthy cherries with a dose of minerality.  One easy-drinking, delicious wine. 

Fleurie La Brirette 2015

The grapes derive from a one-hectare lot called La Brirette which is within the  Les Moriers sub-region. These wines are known for their bigger structure, depth, and spiciness and the La Brirette 2015 does not disappoint. It is dense with a plethora of spices which somehow lead to an elegant wine. 

Moulin-à-Vent Vielles Vignes 2014

This is a blend of two vineyard sites just over the border into Moulin-à-Vent. One sits on granitic soils, the other on sandy clay. The juice is fermented and aged in 400L barrels for about one year leading to complexity and a velvety texture. This wine melts in the mouth. Exceptional.

(1) Wine-searcher.com

Grape Spotlight: Jura Savagnin & Vin Jaune

"During his studies in the 1860s, Pasteur identified that what he referred to as Mycoderma vini - known as the fleur ("flower") by the vignerons, now known as the microorganisms that create the voile or layer of yeast that settles on the surface of wine in barrels - was different from what was known as Mycoderma aceti or acetic (vinegar) bacteria. He even showed that you could seed the surface of the wine with Mycoderma vini to create the right bouquet - anticipating the use of the ensemencement process by almost a century. " -- Wink Lorch: Jura Wine: With Local Food and Travel Tips

Thus Louis Pasteur, the father of microbiology and pasteurization process should also be known as the father of Vin Jaune - the intentionally oxidized wine produced in his native Jura, France.  Lorch continues quoting Jacques Levaux, the retired director of the Jura wine laboratory, "... apart from the rigorous analytical testing, little had changed either in the making or the understanding of Vin Jaune since the time of Pasteur in the mid-19th century".

To paraphrase Lorch, the production of Vin Jaune follows the practice of Spanish sherry where wine (from 100% Savagnin grapes - picked late in the season) are placed in a barrel and not moved or topped for up to six years. Naturally or inoculated, a layer of yeast called voile ("veil")  - and similar to Sherry's flor - forms and protects the wine from extreme oxidation and provides a nutty and rich profile. Since the wine in the barrel is never topped and some is lost to evaporation, it is compulsory to use a 62cl clavelin bottle.

DalGobboM - Own work CC BY-SA 3.0

Savagnin Blanc is especially suited to its indigenous home in the sub-alpine regions of eastern France. And more specifically, this ancient white wine grape is planted abundantly in eastern Jura, a wine region "sandwiched between Burgundy in the west and Switzerland in the east". DNA reveals that Savagnin is the same as Traminer and associated with the Germanic family of Traminer like Gewurztraminer.  But the DNA evidence also revealed that this ancient grape originated in Jura.

Jura's is a cool climate with warm, relatively dry summers and cold winters, and the majority of Jura's vines are planted on south-facing slopes -- to absorb as much of the sun's rays. A minority of vineyards are located in the more mountainous areas of eastern Jura, where heights can reach p to 4,500ft (1370m). However, the majority of vines are planted in the slightly lower-lying land in the west which average 1,000ft (305m).

Marine fossils

"It should come as no surprise that the key soil types here are Jurassic limestone and marlstone. The Jurassic period was named after Jura because the region's limestone mountains are representative of the geological developments which occurred between 145 million and 200 million years ago. The name of L'Etoile, the village which is home to one of Jura's most distinctive appellations, is said to be derived from the star-shaped marine fossils which characterize its limestone-rich soils (etoile is French for 'star'). Chablis and the upper Loire Valley are built on a similar geological structure". -- wine-searcher

Jura was once one of France's most prolific wine regions and dominated by red grape varieties. However, according to Lorch, "during the phylloxera crisis, from the peak of plantations in 1873 to 1900,  the vineyard area reduced in the Jura by 62% - compared to 27% on average for France as a whole". These vines had also been declining due to powdery mildew and then add in two World Wars -- and Jura wine production was basically broke at the beginning of the 1960s.

Courtesy of Domaine de Sainte Marie

Local, governmental, and individual (think Henri Maire) efforts contributed to the steady rebound in Jura wines that have benefitted local producers such as the Domaine de Sainte Marie.  This winery has a 14 hectare (35 acres) estate which is planted with 85% Savagnin. These grapes are used to make Vin Jaune but are also blended with others to produce AOC Cotes du Jura & L'Etoile wines as well as the Vin de Paille dessert wine. Like Savagnin, the family de Sainte Marie is an ancient one tracing their Norman ancestors to the 12 century and having resided in Jura for over 200 years. Today "..the growing estate is built around Bertrand de Sainte Marie, his son Gaëtan,  and oenologist Nicolas Cottier to create top-of-the-range wines, worthy of their appellations, made from traditional Jura grape varieties such as Savagnin, Chardonnay, Poulsard and Trousseau".

Domaine de Sainte Marie participated in the Hopwine program and from the kit I received, it appears that the estate is well on their way to not only meet but exceed that goal. The 2017 L'Etoile Ensemblage is a textured and acidic blend of  Savagnin, Chardonnay, and Poulsard -- the later a red wine grown as a white wine. The 2012 Cotes du Jura Vin de Paille is made from Savagnin, Chardonnay, Poulsard, or Trousseau grapes that have been placed on loosely woven mats made of straw (paille) and dried out for several weeks (or even months). This process concentrates the sugars and flavors providing an auburn colored wine with intense sweet flavors and funk but lifted with refreshing acidity.  And finally, there's the 2010 Cotes du Jura Vin Jaune that is one of the highlights of the entire Hopwine shipment of 30 individual winery kits. It is aromatic, with a clean profile of nuts and honey with rising acids.  And excellent.

Domaine de Sainte Marie is looking for a U.S. importer and distributor so hopefully, their wines will be available in the near future.

Grape Spotlight: Jacquère & Roussette (Altesse)

"On the evening of November 24th, 1248 a tremendous earthquake shook the region causing Mont Granier, the tallest mountain of the Chartreuse Massif, to disintegrate into huge boulders which came crashing down into the valley. Some of these boulders were the size of a house, and 16 villages were crushed and 5,000 lives lost. The church of the Sanctuaire Notre Dame de Myans, however, was spared, though gigantic boulders were stopped abruptly at the very door of the church. Some of these boulders can still be seen around the church grounds" The shrine has been a pilgrimage center since at least the thirteenth century, and its small ‘Black Virgin’ was an object of the devotion of Saint Francis de Sales. -- Our Lady of Myans, Savoy, France

Courtesy of Vineyards.com

In the 1980s and only 2 kilometers from this church, Philippe Ravier took over his family's small estate in the Combe de Savoie. He slowly expanded it to the 35 hectares of today with ample plantings of two grapes popular in the Savoy wine region: Altesse & Jacquère. His son Sylvain joined him in 2008 and together they formed Domaine Philippe & Sylvain Ravier. Some of the multiple vineyard sites they farm were created from the Mount Granier landslide such as those near Apremont and Abymes with their soils composed of ancient glacial moraines and marlstone and those in Lac Saint André / Les Marches at the base of Mount Granier.

Further to the northwest, Domaine Gérald Dubreuil resides in the village of Poncin, halfway between Lyon and Geneva, and within the Vin du Bugey wine region.  The family estate has been cultivated for multiple generations and consists of south-facing vines planting in clay-limestone soils.

Within a larger scope, Savoie and Bugey are wine regions in eastern France, in the mountainous areas just south of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) and the border with Switzerland. While not technically connected under French wine law, Bugey and Savoie are often grouped together since they are close both geographically and produce similar wine styles.  They are very cool climates so most of their wines are white led by Jacquère, Roussette (Altesse), Bergeron (Roussanne), Marsanne, and Chardonnay.  For reds look for Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Mondeuse.  The two main appellations within the regions are Vin de Bugey and Vin de Savoie with numerous Crus and sub-appellations that may appear on labels.  (wine-searcher.com).

Jacquère [jah-kehr] is mostly grown within the crus of the Vin de Savoie appellation -- specifically in the villages of Apremont and Abymes within the shadows of Mont Granier.  Wines from the Jacquère grape are noted for their high acidity, low alcohol, sometimes herbaceous, but clean minerality. We received a Hopwine kit from Domaine Philippe & Sylvain Ravier that included the AOP Vin de Savoie Les Abymes 2019. This wine showed many of these characteristics with its lively citrus profile with racy minerality and lasting acidity. An impressionable wine.

Roussette is the local synonym for Altesse and is considered indigenous to the southern shores of Lake Geneva.  The grape is a late ripener and is usually harvested with a reddish tinge on the berries take which provides Altesse with the synonym, Roussette ("reddish" in French).  When grown in the Roussette de Savoie and Roussette du Bugey appellations the grape is known for producing full-bodied, concentrated wines with floral, nutty characters and good acidity.  The Domaine Philippe & Sylvain Ravier AOP Roussette de Savoie Altesse 2019 is pure elegance with nutty pear flavors and considerable depth before finishing with subtle but lasting acidity.  The Domaine Gérald Dubreuil Roussette du Bugey 2017 provides similar depth and acidity but with more citrus - particularly lingering lemons.  Both show the elegance that Roussette produces in both appellations.  Santé.

Distribution: Wines from Domaine Philippe & Sylvain Ravier are available in Oregon, California, New York, and Massachusetts; whereas Domaine Gérald Dubreuil is looking for a U.S. distributor.

Grape Spotlight: Colli di Rimini Rebola (Pignoletto, Grechetto di Todi)

The northern Italian province of Emilia-Romagna emanates history.  In ancient times it was populated by Thessalians, Etruscans, Celts, and Umbrians -- all before the Romans ascended to power. It contains the Rubicon River which  Julius Caesar crossed in 49 BC, setting the stage for the Ides of March drama. The port city of Ravenna became the capital of the Western Holy Roman Empire in AD 402 and is where King Theodoric the Great established the capital for the Ostrogothic Kingdom of Italy. In the Middle Ages, the province changed ownership between various competing principalities and kingdoms, but the University of Bologna remained a constant source of higher education. It is the oldest university in Europe having been established in AD 1088. And more consequential to our focus, Emilia-Romagna has always been considered one of the richest regions of Italy in regards to wine-making tradition.

Geography

Emilia-Romagna is a rich, fertile region of northern Italy, and one of the country's most prolific wine regions – more than 136,000 acres (55,000ha) were under vine in 2010. At 150 miles (240km) wide, it spans almost the entire width of the northern Italian peninsula, sandwiched between Tuscany to the south, Lombardy and Veneto to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the east. Nine miles of Liguria is all that separates Emilia-Romagna from the Ligurian Sea, and uniqueness as the only Italian region with both an east and a west coast. (wine-searcher.com)

Vines were first introduced to the region by the Etruscans and widely adopted by the Romans. Most interestingly, the grape varieties planted in previous centuries were of the Vitis labrusca species rather than the Vitis vinifera. For example, Emilia-Romagna's famous Lambrusco varieties are derived from the Vitis labrusca species.  Today, there are 20 or so DOC titles, and one of these, Colli di Rimini, is located south of Ravenna bordered by the Adriatic Sea to the east and by the Apennines Mountains to the west.

Courtesy of Vineyards.com

The Colli di Rimini DOC was created in November 1996 and a 2009 re-classification favored a shift to varietal wines with Cabernet Sauvignon and Rebola the featured grapes. If a wine is made from at least 85% of either one, the name of that variety is included as part of the DOC title on labels: Colli di Rimini Cabernet Sauvignon and Colli di Rimini Rebola. DNA evidence that Rebola is the name given to Pignoletto (the Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto DOC) which is also the same as Umbria's Grechetto di Todi.

The first written documentation of Rebola dates to 1378 and refers to it as "Ruibola" or "Greco" and according to wine-searcher.com "Rebola is a fruity and velvety wine, easy to pair with food and able to feature complex perfumes and tastes when aged in wooden barrels or casks".

One Colli di Rimini producer that we recently sampled through the Hopwine program is Vini San Valentino. Their organically grown vines are situated a few kilometers from the Adriatic on the hills of Rimini.  These coastal vineyards receive evening breezes to cool the grapes after a day of abundant sunshine. The Mascarin family has owned the property since 1990 and has concentrated on Sangiovese, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Rebola. Two Rebola wines were included in our Hopwine kit and these wines impressed with their richness and structure. The 2019 Colli di Rimini Scabi Rebola is extremely complex - floral with various tropical and stone fruit notes that combine with its depth and refreshing acids to leave a lasting impression. The 2018 Colli di Rimini Rebola ViVi is even more impressionable. Named after the owner's late wife Valeria Vivian, this wine flows seamlessly through a current of creamy peaches with textured layers of acidity.   I'd cross the Rubicon for this wine.

Update:  Vini San Valentino wines are available in Maryland and Michigan and will be soon available in NY, NJ, Massachusetts, Texas, Rhode Island.

Saints: Apollinaris of Ravenna; St. Marcian of Ravenna