Grape Spotlight: Cortese di Gavi DOCG from Riva Leone

The Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG is an appellation covering still and sparkling white wines produced from the indigenous Cortese grape grown in and around the town of Gavi in southern Piedmont, Italy, roughly 50km (30 miles) due north of Genoa on the shores of the Mediterranean. -- wine-searcher.com

The designation of origin Gavi or Cortese di Gavi DOCG was established in 1998 based on a pre-existing DOC created in 1974. The DOCG area is a predominantly hilly area and vines are planted within 11 municipalities in the southern part of the province of Alessandria. The soils are primarily alluvial, calcareous, and limestone resulting in low yields and decent minerality. It's climate contains elements of both Continental and Mediterranean with abundant winter rainfall followed by hot and dry summers. The summer conditions are tempered by the influence of winds from the sea with abundant sunshine allows the grapes to slowly ripe. And the high diurnal temperature range between night and day allows for the grapes to retain acidity and boist the aromatics.

Cortese is a white grape variety most famously associated with the crisp, lime-scented wines of Gavi. The variety is known for its bracing acidity and its ability to retain freshness even when grown in warm environments. The variety has been grown in the southeastern part of Piedmont for hundreds of years with documents on Cortese dating back to the beginning of the 17th century (wine-searcher.com). The thin skinned grape can be very rigorous and vines and grapes must be pruned and dropped which also helps prevent rot by allowing more airflow. And the warn environment in Gavi allows the grapes to ripen fully balancing the high acidity.

Mack & Schuhle offers a Riva Leone line of wines from the Piedmont which includes the Riva Leone Gavi 2021 ($14.99). According to the Consorzio Tutela del Gavi, 2021 provided conditions in which "the grapes revealed a slow maturation ... stands out compared to previous years, with a better stability of the malic acid which suggests an excellent qualitative potential for the 2021 Gavi DOCG". For this wine, the grapes were lightly pressed and the must fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel vats. This is a delicious wine, starting with powerful aromatics of pineapple and pears leading to a lemon-lime profile, texture and minerality, finishing with racy - fresh acids. A complete bargain. 

Grape Spotlight: Brachetto DOC Rosé Spumante

Brachetto is a black-skinned Italian wine grape grown in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy. The grape specifically is suited for the soils in Monferrato, in the Province of Asti, noted for their limestone, calcareous clay, and marine minerals.  Brachetto is regulated both by the Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG (established in 1996) and the Brachetto DOC (established in 1969) where it is made in sweeter styles usually frizzante or spumante. Brachetto wines are light-bodied and very low-alcohol (typically around 5 percent), yet these wines are also highly aromatic and flavorful.  In addition, these wines have a deep ruby red color, produced by macerating the must with the grape skins for approximately two days, during which time the characteristic ruby pigment leaches out.  The spumante style is then created using the Martinotti method (Charmat method) in which the brief secondary fermentation takes place in large vats, preserving all the natural aromas. 

We recently received a sample of the Acquesi Brachetto DOC ($17.99) which is imported into the United States by Mack & Schuhle and produced by the Cuvage winery in Acqui Terme. The winery was founded in 2011 as a sparkling wine house specializing in the traditional method (Metodo Classico) and Charmat method (Metodo Martinotti) using native varieties like Nebbiolo, Moscato, and Brachetto. Cuvage sources grapes from vineyards that are located on a hilly ridge that travels from Acqui terme to Nizza Monferrato and are located at an altitude between 250 and 350 meters above sea level. The majority of the soils are characterized by light limestone marl while a minority has a strong sandy component. According to the winery, "the different microclimates affected by this selection of musts offer a complete photograph of Brachetto".

The Acquesi Brachetto DOC is a spumante produced using Metodo Martinotti and weighs in at only 6.5% alcohol. Despite that, this wine explodes with flavor -- raspberries in both the aroma and palate. The acidity dampens the sweetness and the entire character begs for funky aged cheeses. 

Grape Spotlight: Nebbiolo Barbaresco DOCG

Vineyard Landscape of Piedmont: Langhe-Roero and Monferrato: This landscape covers five distinct wine-growing areas with outstanding landscapes and the Castle of Cavour, an emblematic name both in the development of vineyards and in Italian history. It is located in the southern part of Piedmont, between the Po River and the Ligurian Apennines, and encompasses the whole range of technical and economic processes relating to the winegrowing and winemaking that has characterized the region for centuries. Vine pollen has been found in the area dating from the 5th century BC, when Piedmont was a place of contact and trade between the Etruscans and the Celts; Etruscan and Celtic words, particularly wine-related ones, are still found in the local dialect. During the Roman Empire, Pliny the Elder mentions the Piedmont region as being one of the most favourable for growing vines in ancient Italy; Strabo mentions its barrels. UNESCO World Heritage list for its cultural landscapes

One of these five wine regions is the Barbaresco DOCG, a classification that was created forty years ago. Barbaresco has a slightly maritime climate which means it enjoys a warmer, drier, and milder than its neighbors. The vineyards are located in the Langhe -- on the right-hand side of the Tanaro river and extending from the area northeast of Alba to the communes of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso, as well as San Rocco Senodelvio (once part of the Barbaresco municipality but now part of Alba). The dominant variety grown is Nebbiolo, but Dolcetto and Barbera also play a part. The vines are generally grown on limestone-rich marl soils. similar to the Tortonium soils of the Barolo and La Morra areas in Barolo, at 650–1300ft (200–400m) above sea level on very steep, "pre-alpine" hills. They are situated on south-facing slopes for best exposure. (wine-searcher.com)

Nebbiolo is an old cultivar, with historic mentions of the variety going back to the second half of the 13th Century when it was called Nebbiolo di Barbaresco. In Barbaresco, Nebbiolo (little fog) ripens early and contains fewer tannins, and thus is very drinkable at an early age.  However, there is still plenty of acidity and tannins to make this an age-worthy red.  And as the name "little fog" suggests, the grape is resistant to vaper-induced diseases like black rot and downy mildew.

Barbaresco DOCG regulations stipulate that Barbaresco must have a minimum alcohol content of 12.5 percent and undergo two years of aging, one of which must be spent in wooden barrels. For the added designation of riserva, the aging increases to four years, with one of those years in wood. Barbaresco wines are characterized by their rich, spicy flavors and perfumed sweetness and are considered more elegant and refined than their Barola counterpart.

Recently we opened a bottle of one of these elegant and refined wines from winemaker Stella Grasso through MGM Mondo del Vino and available in the United States through importer Mack & Schuhle Inc. The  Riva Leone Barbaresco 2017 ($25) is medium-bodied, with structured cherries, mint, tea, and lasting acidity and tannins.  An exceptional wine. 

Grape Spotlight: Terre Siciliane IGT Pinot Grigio

IGT (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) is an Italian classification that was introduced in 1992 in order to allow a certain level of freedom to Italy's winemakers. Prior to 1992, many wines failed to qualify for DOC or DOCG status – not because they were of low quality, but because they were made from grape varieties (or blends) not sanctioned under DOC/G laws. The IGT classification focuses on the region of origin, rather than grape varieties or wine styles. -- Italian Wine Label Information 

Because of its dry, warm climate with regular sunshine and moderate rainfall which reduce the chance of rot and mildew, residents of Siciliy have been producing wine for 4,000 years. Archaeological evidence supports this proposition as amphorae found in Sicily show that the Phoenicians were trading and consuming wine in the IX-IV century BC. The Greek colonization in the VIII-III century BC expanded viticulture by introducing Grecanico and other grapes; while the Romans spread Sicilian wine. Both Greek and Latin literary sources refer to the renowned Sicilian wines. Pliny mentioned the Mamertino from Messina, when Cesare toasted the party for his triumph at the third consulate. In Pompeii, Sicilian wine jars were found, which competed with the local ones from Campania, although they were also appreciated. Remnants of Sicilian wine have also been found in Gaul. (Vine and Wine in the history of Sicily)

Since the Roman era, the strength of Sicilian viticulture oscillated between Muslim, Norman, Spanish, and other conquests to the modern era where the Sicilia IGT was created to encompass the island.  However, in 2011, the Sicilia IGT was upgraded to a newly-created Sicilia DOC and the Terre Siciliane IGT was created as a replacement. The name Terre Siciliane translates to "Sicilian lands" and thus covers the entire island and Terre Siciliane IGT wines can be made any style: red, white, or rosé, still or sparkling, dry or sweet.  

- white, also in the sparkling, sparkling, passito, late harvest, and liqueur types;
- red, also in the sparkling, passito, late harvest, new and fortified types;
- rosé, also in the sparkling, sparkling, passito type.
- with the specification of one of the grape varieties suitable for cultivation in the Sicily Region.
- with the specification of two or three or four vines included among those suitable for cultivation in the Sicily Region.

In the majority of cases, international varieties are used in this classification, but in our example, the white mutation of the Pinot family, Pinot Grigio is the focus. Although this grape is most prevalent in northern Italy it is planted in sufficient quantities in Sicily and when produced as a Terre Siciliane white wine must have a minimum total alcoholic strength by volume of 10.50% vol; a minimum total acidity of 3.50g / l; and a minimum sugar-free extract of 13.0 g / l.

Barone Montalto is located in the province of Trapani in Santa Ninfa and the Belice Valley. They manage approximately 400 hectares of vineyards, some of which are owned and others supervised under the Montalto quality protocol which controls the viticulture methods at each vineyard site. They also operate under the Mack & Schuehle Group and many of their wines are available in the United States through importer Mack & Schuhle Inc. One of these wines is the Barone Montalto Collezione Di Famiglia Terre Siciliane IGT Pinot Grigio 2020 ($12). It is of tremendous value. Expect a pale color, yet deep citrus and literal wet stone on the palate. Gone in a blink of an eye.