Celebrating Generations of Vineyard Workers with Matsu Tinta de Toro

Castilla y León is the largest region of Spain, as well the largest region of all the European Union, and hosts the wine regions of Ribera and Rueda in addition to the more recently designated Toro DO. Toro lies to the west of Rueda in the province of Zamora and and is bisected by the Duero River flowing towards Portugal. Despite gaining Denomination of Origin (DO) status as late as 1987, wine making traditions predate the Romans as Greek settlers taught the local Celtic tribes how to vinify grapes. During the Middle Ages, Toro gained considerable wealth from the wine trade which expanded during the phylloxera epidemic as the local vines were protected by the sandy soil. Thus even today there are 150 year old vines still producing fruit. Traditionally Tinta de Toro refers to red wine from Toro and equates to a clone of the Tempranillo grape that excels in the DO's continental climate. Like other Spanish DOs there are several classifications of Tinta de Toro:

Roble: a young red aged between three and six months (can contain some Garnacha)
Crianza: must age for at least two years with at least six months in oak barrel
Reserva: must age for at least three years with one year in oak barrel
Gran Reserva: must age for at least five years with two years in oak barrel

El Picaro

In the Toro DO there are currently 8,000 ha of land planted with vines with a portion sourced to Vintae, the La Rioja wine company launched by José Miguel Arambarri and sons José Miguel and Ricardo. The produce wine from 15 DOs and in 2006 ventured into Toro. Three years later they introduced the Matsu brand. In Japanese the brand name translates to "wait" and is a tribute to the workers who tend the vines over multiple generations. As proof, each wine label includes a photo of a viticulturist spanning these generations. I recently received samples of three of these 100% Tinta de Toro wines sourced from extremely old vines farmed using biodynamic techniques.

El Recio

Matsu El Picaro 2016 ($13.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a selection of 50 to 70 year old vines. The juice is fermented and rests three months on lees in concrete vats and undergoes malolatic fermentation in French oak barrels. This Roble wine is fresh yet full bodied with a velvety texture, dark juicy fruit, and lasting tannins. A great tasting wine. 

El Viejo

Matsu El Recio 2015 ($21.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a selection of 90 to 100 year old vines. After fermentation in concrete vats the wine was aged 14 months in French oak. This Crianza is intense that is both chalky and chewy; dusty and leathery. The dark fruit and chocolate lingers with the tannins. Ups their game here.

Matsu El Viejo 2015 ($46.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a vines over 100 years old. It follows a similar fermentation and aging regime as the El Racio but extended to 16 months. This Reserva is even more intense exploding in the palate with a combination of fruit, spice, and toasted wood. Chewy tannins integrate with the juicy acids to keep the party going. Oh yes, if only in my budget.

#AccessAlbarino with Snooth and Rias Baixas Wine

Galicia is located in the northwest corner of Spain and is home to Rías Baixas Albariño wine. DO Rías Baixas was created in 1980, but when Spain joined the EU in 1986 the DO was changed to simply Rías Baixas as EU laws did not recognize a DO named for a single grape variety. In order to be labeled Rías Baixas the wine must comprise at least 70% Albariño. The denomination also permits six other types of wines which includes the Rías Baixas Albariño - 100% Albariño from any sub-region.

There are five of these sub-regions. Ribeira do Ulla is the newest (formed in 2000) and is the most northern region. Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. This is the original and oldest sub-region and it's fingers reach out into the Atlantic. Soutomaior is the smallest of the sub-regions where the soil is light and sandy over granite bedrock. Condado do Tea (The County of Tea) is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River which separates the border with Portugal, and is the warmest and driest region. O Rosal also resides against the Miño River -- adjacent to the Atlantic.

Wednesday May 16th Rías Baixas Wine partnered with Snooth to market the region through an Access Albariño Virtual Tasting featuring eleven Albariño wines. Snooth is offering 3, 6, and 9 packs of theses wines at a special sale by clicking here (excluding Paco & Lola and Terras Gauda): https://www.snooth.com/offers/access-albarino-taste-pack-4/. As a participant here our my notes for the tasting - and as usual for the region - all the wines recommended for value and quality. Unless otherwise stated all are 100% Albariño.

• Condes dei Albarai Val do Salnés ($15) from Salnés Valley - creamy lemon, slightly saline, refreshing acidity
• Bodegas As Laxas Condado do Tea ($18) is excellent: fresh lemons, minerals, depth, and finishing strong
• Don Pedro de Soutomaior O Rosal ($19) from estate vineyards in Meder and Goián in Condado do Tea - Saline driven, citrus and green apple, long refreshing finish
• Pazo Señorans Val do Salnés ($25) creamy tropical fruit and lemons, less saline - but depth and dependable acids.
• Valmiñor O Rosal ($19) has solid citrus and tropical fruit, less saline, and fresh acids
  
• Señorío de Rubiós Robaliño Condado do Tea ($18) is light and crisp - minerals and citrus
• Altos de Torona O Rosal ($20) is saline driven, tropical and lemon, great acids
• Nai e Señora Val do Salnés ($16) is an association of top growers in Salnés Valley. The wine shows deep - deep lemon, slight saline, & refreshing acidity
• Fillaboa Condado do Tea ($20) - Fillaboa ("good daughter" in Galician) is the biggest estate in Pontevedra (Tea and Miño Rivers) & one of the oldest in Galicia. The wine is intense with tropical and lemon fruit, saline & acids
• Paco & Lola Val do Salnés ($22) is a cooperative of 400 members & almost 500 acres of vineyards. The wine is fantastic: full bodied lemon creamsicle, chewy, and fresh acids
• Terras Gauda O Rosal ($24) is a unique blend of 70% Slbariño, 15% Caiño, 15% Loureiro providing depth and citrus & stone fruit, plus minerals. Excellent.

Dave Phinney Back with More Locations Wine

Locations is a concept by winemaker Dave Phinney that attempts to create a wine encompassing the various wine regions within a country or state. Can that wine represent "the essence of a country or place and are non-appellation, non-varietal and non-vintage"? After covering several Locations releases I can answer in the affirmative. Here are four of their latest releases:





E5 – Spanish Red Wine ($19.99) is a blend of Grenache/Garnacha, Tempranillo, Monastrell, and Carignan/Cariñena grapes with Mediterranean and Continental influences and sourced from five primary regions: Priorat, Jumilla, Toro, Rioja, and Ribera del Duero. They targeted old vines with low yields that produced a rustic wine with complexity, juicy tannins, and solid acids. My favorite of the group.

F5 – French Red Wine ($19.99) is a blend Grenache, Syrah, and assorted Bordeaux varietals from Rhone, Roussillon, and Bordeaux. One again old vine blocks were targeted that helped create another rustic wine with even more juicy tannins and dirt covered cherries. This is an old world wine.

NZ7 – New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc ($19.99) is the second release from the Land of the Long White Cloud and targets Marlborough growers that have been farming since before this area was recognized as a premier wine growing region in the 1970’s. The wine includes tropical and lemon grass characters from fruit sourced from the Wairau Valley as well as minerality and balance from the Awatere Valley and Waihopai. This is a solid New Zealand styled Sauvignon Blanc, refreshing with plenty of complexity.

WA5 – Washington Red Wine ($19.99) is a blend of Syrah, Merlot, and Petit Sirah aged 10 months in French and American oak. The wine was sourced from diverse lots in the Evergreen State's greatest appellations: Walla Walla, Woodenville, Yakima Valley, and more. The wine is new world and medium-bodied with fruit forward dark fruit, various spices, chocolate, and easy tannins.

Gonzalez Byass: From Jerez to Rioja to Rueda to Riax Baixas

In 1835 at only 23 years old Manuel María González Ángel founded the precursor to Gonzalez Byass creating the Tío Pepe (Uncle Joe) sherry brand inspired by his uncle uncle, José Ángel. In fact the winery’s foundational solera is still inscribed with “Solera del Tío Pepe”. Nearly ten years into his operation Manuel united with his English Agent Robert Blake Byass to form González Byass as they shipped "exceptionally pale..." Tío Pepe wine to the United Kingdom. Together they built the company to be the leading exporter of sherry wines in Jerez.  González Byass focused exclusively on sherry until the 1980's when they started incorporating wineries from other notable Spanish wine regions into the corporate umbrella. These included Bodegas Beronia - D.O.Ca. Rioja, Beronia Verdejo - D.O. Rueda, and Pazos de Lusco - D.O. Rías Baixas. And during the same period "the Byass family withdrew from the business and the winery passed into the hands of the direct descendants of Manuel María González".  In time for spring, we were sent samples from each of these establishments that are suitable to the warming weather.

Tio Pepe ($19.99)
González Byass owns 800 hectares in vineyards in Jerez Superior where the hand picked Palomino grapes are gently pressed without crushing the stems, seeds, or skins. The resulting must is called "yema" which is fermented and fortified to 15.5% then enters the Tio Pepe solera system where it is aged for four years in American oak. During this aging period the wine undergoes biological aging under a layer of yeast called "flor". This gives Tio Pepe its unique pungent aromas that blend with the almond notes characteristic of the Palomino grape. For some dry sherry is an acquired taste so the colder it's served, the less prevalent these aromas. Also consider the cocktail route using dry vermouth and orange bitters.

Beronia Rosé 2017 ($12.99)
Rioja is situated in the Ebro Valley hemmed to the north by the Cantabria mountain range and to the south by the Demanda range and creating an enclave for the eventual production of quality wines. Yet in ancient times it was inhabited by a Celtic tribe called Berones who called the area Beronia. In modern times (1973) as the region now know as Rioja became the preeminent Spanish wine producing region, members of a gastronomic society founded Bodegas Beronia -- which was eventually incorporated into the González Byass portfolio.  The winery is specifically located in Rioja Alta -- the western most of the three major Rioja sub-regions -- and it's high elevation and Atlantic climate assists in the development of acidity, color and moderate alcohol levels. Like most of Rioja, the Tempranillo grape reigns supreme and this rosé is 100% gently pressed Tempranillo. It is very light, all strawberries with a long creamy and acidic tail.

Beronia Rueda 2017 ($12.99)
Beronia ventured into Rueda, Spain's first D.O. located in continental conditions northwest of Madrid. Verdejo is that region's signature grape and Beronia creates a unique wine y combining two harvests from two vineyards (Finca El Torrejón and Finca La Perdiz). In both vineyards  the first harvest "produces a fresher wine with more herbaceous aromas, with touches of boxwood, grass and fennel" whereas the second starts a few days later and "collects riper grapes that offer up stone fruit and other, more exotic fruits".  The result is a fantastic wine, with racy minerals combining with herbs and citrus and stone fruit flavors. What a value as well.

Pazo de Lusco Albarino 2016 ($24.99)
Whereas other Spanish wine regions are noted for their dry desert-like conditions, the northwestern Spanish region of Galicia received 71 inches of rainfall each year providing a lush landscape and moisture rich environment for the white Albariño grape. The  D.O. Rías Baixas denomination is divided into five sub-regions with the southernmost Condado do Tea (The County of Tea) named after the river Tea which separates the border with Portugal.  The five hectare Pazos de Lusco estate is located here and the Albariño grapes are hand harvested, fermented with its natural yeasts, and gently pressed.  The result is a wine with a strong floral and tropical aroma, citrus and minerals, and uplifted with powerful acidity.  Wow.

Ribera Y Rueda: Tempranillo Y Verdejo

Many wine consumers are probably familiar with the Designation of Origin (D.O.) Ribera del Duero wine region, situated in north-central Spain, roughly two hours north of Madrid. This classic region in Castilla y León sits on an elevated plateau along, not surprisingly, 70 miles of the Duero River before it meanders to Portugal and its outlet to the Atlantic at Porto. The summers in Ribero are long, hot, and dry with the river providing irrigation relief. Red wine is king which usually means 100% Tinto Fino aka Tempranillo -- although at times wines may include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Malbec. Aging requirements mandate that Crianzas spend one year aging in barrel with one year in bottle whereas Reservas spend an additional second year in bottle before release. And Gran Reservas require at least two years in barrel and three years aging in bottle.  These wines tend to be rich and powerful with acidity to match.

Less familiar is Ribera's companion wine region Rueda -- also located in Castilla y León but situated to the southwest and where wine production dates back to the 12th century. Spain's wine drinkers are more familiar since Rueda received D.O. designation before Ribera, 1980 versus 1982.  The older D.O. hosts a continental climate with abundant sunlight, low rainfall, and prevailing winds that dry the vineyards. This allows for practically organic viticulture. And in contrast to Ribera, white grapes dominate as in Spain’s most popular white grape Verdejo. Not only does Verdejo thrive in these conditions but the large diurnal temperature swings of 50 degrees on average maintain the balance between sugar and acidity. This is why the grape was replanted extensively in the 1970's after being decimated in the region in the late 19th century due to phylloxera.

This month the marketing arm of the twin regions, Ribera y Rueda, hosted a series of trade tastings with one held at the Barcelona Wine Bar in Washington D.C.. This event showcased Tempranillo and Verdejo from 28 wineries in order to present "wines that reflect an ancient tradition and a singular sense of place, yet have a timeless appeal that knows no borders". With such a large tasting it is difficult to fully experience all presenters so here are a handful that caught my attention.

Starting with Rueda, the Bodega Javier Sanz Viticultor presented two Verdejo wines that were fantastic. The winery owns 104 hectares of vines, many pre-phylloxera vineyards, with the intent to cultivate local grape varieties and the recovery of varieties that almost became extinct. One of these is Malcorta, a Verdejo clone nursed from virtual extinction and the basis for the Javier Sanz Viticultor V Malcorta 2016 ($28). This is an elegant wine, aged six months on lees and possessing a creamy dry character with minerals and nuts finishing with abundant acidity. The also showed the Javier Sanz Viticultor Verdejo 2017 ($20) that spent four months on lees providing a little texture to accompany the refreshing finish. A similar wine was poured by Bodegas Menade with their Menade Verdejo 2016 ($15) that provides racy minerals with a large mouth feel. Other notables are the Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo 2016 ($13), the Familia Torres Verdejo 2016 ($12), and the Hermano del Villar Oro De Castilla Verdejo 2017 ($17).

Bodega Reina de Castilla is a cooperative of family vineyards producing several styles of Verdejo as well as Sauvignon Blanc. Their entry level Bodega Reina de Castilla Isabelino Rueda 2017 ($11) includes some Viura, is made from 35 year old vines, and rather tasty. But try to locate their Bodega Reina de Castilla Barrel Fermented Verdejo 2016 ($23) that is made from 50 year old vines only in exceptional years. This wine show depth and elegance with a silky, refreshing tail.


Bodegas Mocén is located in the old center of the village of Rueda and like Reina de Castilla produces an excellent Sauvignon Blanc as well as the barrel fermented Bodegas Mocén Fermentado en Barrica 2016 ($25). This wine has more oak presence with vanilla and spice but also retains the traditional green apple and fresh acids. They also poured an organic equivalent Bodegas Mocén Ecologico 2016 ($15) that possesses plenty of texture and minerals with a little less acids.

For Ribera, let's start with Viñedos y Bodegas Gormaz, one of the nine founding members of the Ribera del Duero D.O. that itself was founded in 1972. It sources fruit from small vineyards throughout the eastern part of Ribera that are the foundation of three excellent 12 Lineages wines poured that day: Viñedos y Bodegas Gormaz 12 Linajes Roble 2014 ($18), Viñedos y Bodegas Gormaz 12 Linajes Crianza 2011 ($24), and Viñedos y Bodegas Gormaz 12 Linajes Reserva 2009 ($35). These wines had various shades of spice and tannins - but are three powerful and delicious wines.

For 25 years April Cullom has been an evangelist for Spanish wine and recently launched the Alma de Vino brand to celebrate Ribera. The Alma de Vino Old Vine Tempranillo 2011 ($35) is made from old vine organic grapes grown at some of the highest elevations in Ribera. This leads to a higher diurnal swing allowing he grapes to ripen slower resulting in softer tannins.  An excellent wine.

Finca Villacreces is named after the Franciscan monk Pedro de Villacreces who founded the estate in the 14th century. This property consists of 64 hectares of vines located in the heart of the Ribera del Duero's "Golden Mile". Their Finca Villacreces 2014 ($39) is a blend of 86% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot aged 14 months in new oak. Quite simply, it is fantastic: structured, good fruit, slight spice and rounded tannins.

Dominio Basconcillos offers soft Tempranillo wines through their organic and biodynamic practices on their 18 year old winery.  The grapes are grown at over 3,000 feet in elevation providing similar slow ripening and these soft tannins. So check out the Dominio Basconcillos Vina Magna Seie Meses 2016 ($26) and Dominio Basconcillos Vina Magna 2015 ($40).

The final wines are from Bodegas Peñalba Herráiz and Bodegas Arrocal. The former owns vineyards located in Aranda de Duero, Castrillo de la Vega and Hoyales de Roa and their Bodegas Peñalba Herráiz Aptus 2015 ($17) is a soft and structured blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Monestrell.  The latter is a family owned winery farming their ancestry vineyards with the Bodegas Arrocal Seleccion 2014 ($40) based on 70 year old vines.  This is an impressive wine with a solid backbone, dark fruit, and slight spice.

There were plenty of other delicious wines from Ribera Y Rueda. Start your research into the two areas now. Cheers.

Bierzo D.O., Bodegas Godelia, Mencia, and Godello

Who's familiar with Bodegas Godelia? Or for that matter Spain's Bierzo D.O.? Well not me as of last week -- until I received the two wines below. The Bierzo D.O. is situated east of Galicia in Spain's northwest corner. The region shares Galicia's humidity and rainfall as well as the hot, dry climate of Castile - located slightly southeastern. The vineyards are relatively low lying (450-1,000 meters) along hillsides planted on a diverse set of quartz, slate, granite, and limestone soils. Viticulture was first documented during the Roman colonization but expanded during the Middle Ages through the growth of monasteries. After the phylloxera plague basically decimated the vineyards in the late 1800s, modern viticulture resuscitated the region and the Bierzo D.O. was established in 1989.

Bodegas Godelia consists of 86 acres of estate vineyard plus an additional 37 acres under contract. The estate resides outside the village of Cacabelos centrally located to the D.O. and with old vines (20-90 years) planted on hillsides at 500-600 meters.

Two prominent grapes in the Bierzo D.O. are the white Godello and the red Mencia. The former is known for producing complex, mineral-driven wines and the later concentrated, yet juicy acidic wines.

Godelia Godello-Dona Blanco 2015 ($17) is a blend of 80% Godello and 20% Dona Blanca that spent five months on lees. This technique is clearly evident as the wine possesses a creamy backbone that is surrounded by floral and spicy-minerally characters. Solid acids provide a fresh finish.

Godelia Mencia ($19) is comprised of 100% Mencia harvested from 50-90 year old vines. And after fermentation the wine spends 12 months in various oak casks. This is a tasty combination of dirt and fruit with the high tannins settling leaving juicy acidity. Another tremendous value wine.

New Years with Vilarnau Brut Reserva Cava

In 2017 Catalonia independence was a dominant topic in European news, but the province is also a notable wine region particularly with Penedes Cava. The Catalan word cava refers to "cave" or "cellar" and this sparkling wine is traditionally made using indigenous Macabeu, Parellada and Xarel·lo grapes. But regardless of the blend, all Cava D.O. wines must be made using the champenoise traditional method.

 One small Catalan producer is Vilarnau, a Cava house that has been operating just outside Barcelona since 1949. I received two samples of their Brut Reserva with both honoring the winery's Catalan roots by reflecting the imagery of Antoni Gaudi and the "Trencadís" mosaic. This technique was used in the modernist artistic movement in Catalonia, created from tiny fragments of broken ceramic tiles, roof tiles or crockery. Very impressive bottling. Cheers to 2017 & 2018, Cava, and a thriving Catalonia.

Vilarnau Brut Reserva NV ($14.99) - a blend of 50% Macabeo, 35% Parellada, and 15% Xarel·lo and aged more than 15 months in bottle. A tremendous bargain with a creamy green apple and lemon flavor, tiny bubbles, and refreshing acids. Highly recommended.

Vilarnau Brut Reserva Rosé NV ($15.99) - a blend of 85% Trepat and 15% Pinot Noir and also aged more than 15 months in bottle. Fruit forward profile of creamy strawberries, a little less effervescence, but noticeable acids.  Another nice value.

Say Hello to Xion and Pazo Cilleiro Rías Baixas Albariño

Looking for an alternative to Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc? Then check out Albariño from Rías Baixas, Galicia - situated in the northwest corner of Spain. The DO was created in 1980, but when Spain joined the EU in 1986 the DO was changed to simply Rías Baixas as EU laws did not recognize a DO named for a single grape variety. I don't know why. In order to be labeled Rías Baixas, the wine must consist of at least 70% Albariño - and with the amount of this grape grown, a rather easy goal. The denomination also permits six other types of wines which includes the Rías Baixas Albariño - 100% Albariño from any sub-region.

According to Rias Baixas Wines, DO Rías Baixas encompasses five distinct sub-regions. Ribeira do Ulla is the newest (formed in 2000) and is the most northern region. Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. This is the original and oldest sub-region and it's fingers reach out into the Atlantic.  Soutomaior is the smallest of the sub-regions and was registered in 1996. Soils are light and sandy over granite bedrock. Condado do Tea (The County of Tea) is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River which separates the border with Portugal. O Rosal also resides against the Miño River -- adjacent to the Atlantic. Because of the high rainfall and humidity grape vines are widely spaced and trained on stone pergolas and a wire trellis called a “parra".  These parras can reach up to seven feet tall, allowing breezes to prevent mildew and to promote even ripening. During harvest, workers must stand on grape bins in order to collect the grape bunches.

Despite the high rainfall amounts,  Rías Baixas vineyards are blessed with ample sunshine - averaging over 2,200 hours of sunshine per year. This sunshine in conjunction with the cooler climate provides an environment for high natural grape acidity. Albariño wines are also known for their floral and mineral character, most likely impacted soil composition within Rías Baixas. The bedrock is primarily hard granite with a top layer of mineral-rich alluvial (a combination of clay, silt, sand and gravel) formed from deposits eroded from running water.

Bodegas y Vinedos Attis Xion Albariño (Rías Baixas) - ($20) This wine displays the traditional combination of white fruit, citrus, saline and racy acids combined with an underlying texture. Albariño meets Sauvignon Blanc.

Bodegas Muriel 2015 Pazo Cilleiro Albariño (Rías Baixas) - ($20) Produced from grapes grown in the Val do Salnés, this is a fresh and lively wine, plenty of citrus and weighty stone fruit, and balanced acids. Albariño meets Chardonnay.

Wine Sample: Abadia Retuarda Seleccion Especial Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León

The Abadía Retuerta winery launched in 1996 during Spain's Ribera del Duero explosion onto the world market. Although relatively young, the winery inherits a long tradition of winemaking as the winery and vineyards are located on the former site of the 12th century Santa Marie de Retuerta Monastery in Sardón de Duero. Along the banks of the Duero River, "the monks of the order of Saint Norbert were given terras et vineas (land and vines) in Duero Valley and the second abbot brought the first French grape varieties from Burgundy that were planted in this famous Spain wine region. Since then, the land of our estate has been dedicated to the vine, to silence and to devotion."

Abadia Retuerta farms these same vineyard sites which today is located within the heart of the "Golden Mile", a "privileged strip of land it shares with some of the Ribera del Duero's most illustrious wineries...". Despite the fact that Abadia Retuerta could produce wines under the prestigious D.O. Ribera del Duero label, they chose instead to use the broader Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León classification that allows them to be more flexible in the grape varieties and percentages included in the final blend.

For instance, D.O. Ribera del Duero labeled red wines requires a composition of at least 75% Tempranillo, with the remaining proportions divided between Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. However the 2013 Abadia Retuarda Seleccion Especial Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León ($30) is composed of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah, and 10% Others (such as Merlot & Petit Verdot). Apparently the Syrah adds additional strength the the wine accompanied by the richness of Tempranillo and the elegance of Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine does however follow the D.O. Ribera del Duero regulations for aging Reserve wines spending over 12 months in oak and two years aging in the bottle. This is a fantastic wine, intense with aggressive red fruit, well integrated tannins and fresh acidity. The finish includes a hint of smoke and spice. However I feel that drinking this wine young is an injustice and the wine will gain elegance with more time in the bottle. Cheers to Abadia Retuerta and the Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León.

The Summer of DO Rías Baixas Albariño Wine Begins Early

With at least four weeks scheduled at various beaches this will most likely be the Summer of Rías Baixas. These fresh, acidic, and minerally driven wines from the northeast corner of Spain (Galicia) are designed for shellfish and seaside consumption.

The Rias Baixas region encompasses five distinct sub-regions. Ribeira do Ulla is the newest (formed in 2000) and is the most northern region. Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. This is the original and oldest sub-region and it's fingers reach out into the Atlantic.  Soutomaior is the smallest of the sub-regions where the soil is light and sandy over granite bedrock. Condado do Tea (The County of Tea) is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River which separates the border with Portugal, and is the warmest and driest region. O Rosal also resides against the Miño River -- adjacent to the Atlantic.

I seem to prefer wines from O Rosal but last week's Rías Baixas - Snooth tasting reinforced that diverse and delicious wines are produced in all regions (or at least the three regions that the tasting focused.  Here's a short rundown of the session's ten wines all worthwhile and very affordable.

Sub-region: Val do Salnés

• Condes de Albarei Albariño Rias Baixas 2015 ($15)
  Stone fruit on aroma, then bright and ripe tropical fruit and great acidity, plenty of salinity in the tail
• Vionta Albariño Rias Baixas 2015, SRP: $15
  Strong floral aroma, creamy and weighty stone fruit wine, aged on lees, some hazelnut
  
• Martin Codax Albariño Rias Baixas 2015 ($16.99)
  Has similar acidity but a fuller body as it sits five months on its lees. Interestingly this winery is a co-op of 600 family vineyards.  Ripe fruit and solid acids.
• Pazo Senorans Albariño Rias Baixas 2016 ($25)
  Fresh citrus and saline with abundant acids; weighty from (60%) macerated on its lees

Sub-region: Contado do Tea

• Pazo de San Mauro Albariño Rias Baixas 2015 ($17)
  Creamy, more floral, riper fruit, less acidic and saline
• Señorío de Rubiós Robaliño Albariño Rias Baixas 2016 ($18)
  Fresh and clean, tropical, slight bitterness on finish - great acids
  

Sub-region: O Rosal

• Valminor Albariño Rias Baixas 2015 ($18.99)
  Wet stone and minerals throughout, citrus aroma and tart flavor. Excellent.  
• Bodegas Terras Gauda Abadia de San Campio Albariño Rias Baixas 2015 ($19.99)
  Top 2: nuttier, flinty minerality, herbs with dried apricot; fresh acids throughout
• Altos de Torona Albariño Sobre Lias Rias Baixas 2015 ($14)
  For the price, the best value. Plenty of citrus, stone fruit, refreshing acids
• Santiago Ruiz Albariño Rias Baixas 2015 ($20)
  A blend of Albarino, Loueiro, Treixadura, Godello, and Caino Blanco - all indigenous grapes to the region.  Fresh and intense hitting all the typical notes: floral, citrus, and stone fruits. And plenty of minerality and acidity. Top 2. 

Rías Baixas Albariño: "The Number One Alternative to Chardonnay"

"Albariño is the number one alternative to Chardonnay and, in fact, it may be my favorite white wine", Mark Oldman

Mr. Oldman shared this sentiment at the Succotash Restaurant in Washington DC as Wines of Rías Baixas attempts to raise the profile of Albariño from the Galicia region of northwestern Spain. Last month they sponsored The Tastemakers Table, where "top sommeliers and wine experts teamed up to challenge palates showcasing the versatility of this Spanish white wine".  After attending the Succotash event I also received samples of the 2015 Lagar de Bouza ($18) and the 2015 Marques de Vizhoja Torre la Moreira ($17).  Whereas the exact nature of  Rías Baixas Albariño depends on which micro-climate the grape was grown, both of these wines share the common characteristics that make all Albariño an excellent and versatile wine: minerality and bright acids. Absolutely try these two wines.

The next Rias Baixas sponsored event occurs this Thursday May 4th during the Snooth-Rías Baixas Virtual Tasting at 8:30 PM ET. Snooth’s co-founder Mark Angelillo will be joined by Advanced Sommelier Jill Zimorski to discuss ten of the region’s premier Albariño wines.  I suspect they will also be discussing the five distinct sub-regions as well as the unique trellis system and marine influences. So grab a bottle of Albariño and join the discussion. Cheers.

The Tastemakers Table Presents Rías Baixas Albariño

I've been infatuated with Albarino wine since last year's WineStudio's foray into DO Rías Baixas - Spain's unique Galician wine region. Unlike most of Spain, this region is lush with greenery that is fed from 71 inches of annual rainfall. The white Albariño grape dominates DO Rías Baixas with 90% of grape production. And what fantastically fresh, acidic, and minerally driven wines they represent. At a recent Tastemakers Table tasting of Rias Baixas Albarino held at the Succotash Restaurant in National Harbor Maryland, Mark Oldman, author of How to Drink Like a Billionaire!, stressed the reliability and authenticity of these wines and is his number one alternative to Chardonnay.


The DO Rías Baixas encompasses five distinct sub-regions. Ribeira do Ulla is the newest (formed in 2000) and is the most northern region. Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. This is the original and oldest sub-region and it's fingers reach out into the Atlantic.  Soutomaior is the smallest of the sub-regions where the soil is light and sandy over granite bedrock. Condado do Tea (The County of Tea) is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River which separates the border with Portugal, and is the warmest and driest region. O Rosal also resides against the Miño River -- adjacent to the Atlantic.

And I'm started to prefer wines from this last region: O Rosal. Their wine contain similar levels of acidity as their brethren but seem to have an enhanced salinity beyond that generated by the granite soils as well as a more rounded profile and floral notes. This preference may have risen from the two O Rosal wines at the Tastemakers Table session which were blends and not 100% Albarino.  The 2015 Santiago Ruiz ($20) for instance is a blend of Albarino, Loueiro, Treixadura, Godello, and Caino Blanco - all indigenous grapes to the region. And the 2015 Terras Gauda ($24), which was my overall favorite, is a blend of Albarino, Caino Blanco, and Loueiro. 

There were also a few 100% Albarino at the tasting that impressed our group. The 2015 Pazo De Señoráns ($21) is highly recommended. The winery is is located in the Salnés Valley and is fresh citrus and saline with abundant acids. Also from that region, the 2015 Martín Códax ($15) has similar acidity but a fuller body as it sits five months on its lees. Interestingly this winery is a co-op of 600 family vineyards. Finally, the 2016 Bodegas As Laxas ($20) hits all the notes from their Condado do Tea grapes: heavy peach fruit, high acids, and plenty of minerality. Nicely done.

Five Wines From Garnacha Denominaciones de Origens

Grenache is commonly known as the dominant southern Rhone grape in that region's delicious GSM blends. Yet, going by its Spanish name Garnacha, it is very much a Mediterranean grape. The grape's rise to fame originated in the Kingdom of Aragon in northeast Spain. (Whether Garnacha was born there or in Sardinian is being debated.)  As powdery mildew spread through Europe, the grapes resistance to that disease increased it's planting. Into Languedoc, Rhone, Italy, even Australia, and more recently in the United States. But the grape is still king in Spain or at least the third most planted grape variety in that country.  Here are five from Denominaciones de Origen Garnacha-focused regions. In these regions, Garnacha, whether red or white, must comprise 85% of the wine.

Celler Batea Vall Major White Garnacha ($11) - Grenache comes in both a white and red version. Terra Alta is located just east of Aragon in Catalonia. Terra Alta means "High Land" and refers to the high altitude terraces where Vall Major’s Garnacha Blanca vineyards are planted. We are talking 1,200-2,000 ft above sea level. The soil is mostly limestone leading to a saline stone fruit character and lingering but subtle acids.

El Circo Garnacha 2015 ($10) Located in the Cariñena Denomination of Origin - the oldest in Aragon as well as in Europe (1932). The region is situated west of Terra Alta and Barcelona - about three hours by car. The soils are very rocky as limestone and clay dominate. The vineyards reside between 1,150-2,625 ft in a more continental climate with hot summers and very cold winters. This wine starts with juicy red fruit, some earthiness, and ends fresh and smooth. Light tannins.

Care Tinto Roble Garnacha ($11) After fermentation, the estate grapes are aged four months in oak barriques. The wine has some toastiness that is almost overshadowed by the fruit forward start. The finish is rustic, clean, and smooth.

Terrai OVG 2015 ($12) Made from grapes harvested from the best lots from old vine Garnacha - over 45 years old. No oak so this wine is fruit throughout: forward, middle, and finish. There is also trace amounts of minerality and a mildly spicy & tannic finish.

Las Moradas Initio 2010 ($12) Las Moradas is located in the sub-region of San Martín de Valdeiglesias southeast of Madrid. Las Moradas vineyards are at a high altitude of about 2,850 feet in the foothills of the Sierra de Gredos. The wine is fermented with natural yeast and aged in French oak barrels for 14 months. There is a black licorice aroma, candied cherries, medium bodied, earthy smooth with lingering tannins. By far my favorite of the group.

Dave Phinney's Locations French, Spanish, & Argentinian Wines

Locations Wines are the result of an organic brainstorming session when Dave Phinney imagined the possibility of creating a French wine across all the French appellations. Would that blend represent France?  What about other countries? Thus the Locations brand was born: "to produce a wine that pays homage to their home land without compromise and without boundaries".  The Locations wines are very unique; they are "crafted to represent the essence of a country or place and are non-appellation, non-varietal and non-vintage".  Now, that's a some creative thinking. Below are three Locations wines I received recently.

F – French Red Wine ($18.99)  A blend of Grenache, Syrah, and assorted Bordeaux varietals from an assortment of growers from the Rhone, Roussillon, and Bordeaux.  Fruit centric and jammy wine which transitions quickly to a slightly tannic and lingering tail.

E – Spanish Red Wine ($18.99) A blend of Grenache/Garnacha, Tempranillo, Monastrell, and Carignan/Cariñena from low-yielding old vines in the Priorat, Jumilla, Toro, Rioja, and Ribera del Duero. Dark fruit, subtle spices, bits of chocolate, solid texture, and soft tannins. My favorite of the trio.

AR – Argentinian Red Wine ($17.99) A Blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Uco Valley in Mendoza. The Malbec provides depth and intensity and the Cabernet Sauvignon increased complexity. Deep, dark plum fruit flavors, spicy and structured, with a notable tannic finish.

A Wine Dinner with Rioja's CVNE Winery

Recently I had the opportunity to join fellow wine bloggers and representatives from CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte del España) for a fantastic wine dinner at DC's Barcelona Restaurant. The parent company operates bodegas in two of Rioja's three subregions: Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa - aka Basque wine country. CVNE is actually pronounced Coo-nay because way back in 1879 for their inaugural vintage, the labels were misprinted as CUNE. But Brothers Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asúa decided to keep the name for an easier pronunciation.

During the dinner, International Director Joan Pujol and USA Area Manager Gloria Zapatero relayed other stories about this historic winery including Spain's oldest white wine Monopole. First produced in 1915, the wine was first made using the Viura grape plus other non-Rioja Spanish fruit. The wine became 100% Viura in the 1980s when the Rioja DOC was institutionalized and is now known - at least for me - for its savory, stoney, and creamy orange blossom character. In another luck of fate, and elderly American customer visited the winery not long ago, sampled the Monopole, and remarked that it wasn't what he had remembered. The owner stepped into his private cellar pulled out a 1979 vintage and both the owner and customer where pleased with the aged wine. And thus the concept for the Cune Monopole Clasico was born. The winery un-retired the former winemaker who was the only person with knowledge of the blend and process. And in a few weeks this wine will be available in the United States.

Courtesy of CVNE

CVNE is the original winery founded by Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asúa in 1879 in Haro, Rioja Alta.  The cellars were designed by famed French architect Aleixandre Gustave Eiffel and provides a large open area for easy cask maintenance.

The Imperial brand began in the 1920's in Rioja Alta the westernmost part of Rioja's three subregions. The vineyards in Villalba, Briones and Montalvo are influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and contain deposits of iron, salts, limestone and clay. The name Imperial comes from the special bottling for the English market known as an ‘Imperial Pint’ (half a liter). The wines for the Imperial label are aged in the CVNE Eiffel designed cellar. Mr. Pujol noted that wines from Rioja Alta are generally more acidic which favors longer aging potential.

The Viña Real brand was also launched in the 1920s, this time in Rioja Alavesa - located in Basque country. The vineyards extend from the Sierra de Cantabria  towards the Ebro river basin which protect the area from harsher weather formed in the Atlantic. The soil combines with calcareous and clay-based soils. Mr. Pujol noted that there area produces riper wines and this winery is best known for their Crianza wines.

Contino became the first Rioja château in 1973 and is located in the Rioja Alavesa. "The history of the property dates from the 16th century, and is reflected in its name. The contino was the officer in charge of a guard corps of a hundred soldiers who protected the royal family de contino (continuously) from the times of the Catholic Monarchs onwards."  The grapes used in the Contino brand are exclusively from the 62 hectares Laserna vineyards which are protected by the Cerro de la Mesa hills.

Here are the wines we enjoyed during the evening. Cheers.

Cune Monopole 2015 ($15) 100% Viura - the most widely planted white grape variety in Rioja. The oldest white wine brand of Spain, produced since 1915.  This wine is one smooth operator: laid back, self-assured, stony and creamy orange blossoms, with just enough acids to make you notice.

Cune Monopole Clásico 2014 ($25) Viura & other grape varieties.  Fermented in stainless steel then rests on lees in 300l and 500l oak barrels for eight months. Very complex with multiple flavors - all of the spectrum.  Fresh finish from solid acidity.

Vina Real Crianza 2011 ($15) 90% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuela. This is a light bodied wine, bright cherries, a dusty structure and finishes smooth and vibrant. An outstanding value for an everyday wine.

Vina Real Reserva 2010 ($45) 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, Grenache and Mazuelo. Aged one year in oak and two years in bottle before release. Deep color and flavors, round and full, dried fruit, and very smooth.

Imperial Reserva 2009 ($45) 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo. The wine is macerated and primary fermented in oak with the malolatic fermentation proceeding in concrete. The wine is juicy smooth, with excellent structure, vanilla and spices, and a long semi-tannic finish.

Imperial Gran Reserva 2009 ($55) 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo.Aging in cask for three years and in bottle for two years before release. Only wine from the best barrels were reserved for the Gran Reserva which shows in the wine with it's excellent structure, hints of earth, and long smooth finish. Fantastic

Contino Reserva 2009 ($48) 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo & Garnacha. After being opened all day the wine tasted of  figs and raisins, but remained fresh.

UPS Just Wasn't Excited About #GrenacheDay

What happens when you have five bottles of wine delivered on a 95+ degree day? 'Cause that's what happened to my #GarnachaDay 2016 wines. Apparently UPS didn't share my excitement with the Snooth virtual tasting that evening which featured the Wines of Garnacha and hosted by Master Sommelier Laura Maniec and Master of Wine Christy Canterbury.  It was readily apparent that my sample wines were cooked, in other words significantly over heated. The first clue was that the wine bottles were hot to the touch, not just warm, but hot. Second, two corks were protruding form the top lip of their bottles. Third, after uncorking, the cork's sides were streaked with wine that had managed to not only push the corks up when it expanded, but also seep through the cork. And finally, the wines tasted flabby and a little stewed. Oh great.

I still attended the virtual tasting and learned that the five wines represented the five Designation of Origin (DO) where Garnacha (Grenache) originated. These DOs (Calatayud, Campo de Borja, Cariñena, Somontano and Terra Alta) are located in eastern Spain, in the wine country just outside of Catalina. The grape thrives in the hot Mediterranean climate with it's well drained soils and cool desert like nights. The first written mention of Garnacha is in 1513, making it not only one of the oldest "modern" grapes but also one of the most planted. Let's also not forget about Grenache Blanc or Garnatxa Blanca as it is known in Catalonia. This white grape is related to Garnacha and has found a home in the Rhone where it is France's 5th most popular planted grape.

Below are the five wines that were sampled during the virtual tasting with reviews from other participants. And remember these wines were all priced less than $15.

Clos Dalian Garnatxa Blanca 2015 - MyVineSpot: Flavors are delicate; texture is nice, and great acidity, makes it a wonderful food.

La Miranda de Secastilla Blanca 2014 - TheFrugal WineSnob: YUM! A kiss of oak, petrol..

Castillo de Monseran Garnacha Carinena 2014 - the least cooked wine that I received, maybe because of the screw-cap closure - WineCompass:  red plum, vege, spicy finish

Evodia Garnacha 2015 - ‏Fiery01Red: A steal for $10.99! Modern rich texture lots of juicy fruit floral notes & spice.

Garnacha Centenaria 2014 - MyVineSpot: Always excellent value for the money (approx $13) and a go-to #BBQ #wine.

"Topa Egin Dezagun" to Basque Country Wines from Rioja Alavesa

This summer the Smithsonian Folklife Festival featured Spain's Basque Country showcasing that region's unique music, language and cuisine.  In conjunction, Paul Wagner, President of Balzac Communications & Marketing, lead a trade tasting of Basque Country Wines from Rioja Alavesa, a sub zone in the larger DOC Rioja region. The geography of Rioja Alavesa is both Mediterranean and Continental, with the Cantabria Mountains sheltering the vineyards from cold wet air from the Atlantic Ocean. The proximity of the vines to the Ebro River provides additional warming. The soils are primarily calcareous clay.  

The Basque region is unique in that it's language predates all the Indo-European languages now used in Europe. The Basque name for itself is "Euskera", wine is "Ardoa", and "Topa Egin Dezagun" translates to Cheers. The region is also located in the crossroads of ancient trade and medieval pilgrimage routes bringing some influences from other cultures - grape growing and wine production being good examples. The Basque region also produces a second style of wine called Txakoli that is not part of Rioja Alavesa. These wines are "young, fruity, slightly sparkling white wine with low acidity".

As for Rioja Alavesa, Tempranillo is the favored red grape comprising 80% of plantings with another 4% dedicated to other red grapes and the remainder to several varieties of white grapes.  During this tasting, all the wines were at least 90% Tempranillo and followed the DOC Rioja requirements regarding Crianza (minimum of one year in casks and a few months in the bottle) and Reserva (aged for a minimum of 3 years, with at least one year in casks). In general these wines were very good, with the older vintages providing evidence of longevity and freshness.  Topa Egin Dezagun.

• CVNE Vina Real Crianza 2001 ($12) - light bodied, black cherries, a little dusty with lingering tannins.
• Marques de Riscal Reserva 2009 ($20) - very complex (creamy, spicy, some leather) with lingering tannins and acidity. Very nice.
• Remelluri Reserva 2009 ($25) - much more tannic than the Marques de Riscal, with more leather and dirt,
• Baigorri de Garage Rioja 2007 ($50) - a new age Rioja, fresh dark fruit then figs and green olives on the palate, finishes with dark chocolate.
• Remirez de Ganuza Reserva 2006 ($60) -  a traditional Rioja styled Tempranillo; very smooth, depth, with a bright finis. My favorite of the group. 
• DSL Vinedos y Bodegas DSG Phinca Lali 2010 ($68) - interesting mint characters with loads of tannins and acids - Wagner recommends 5-10 more years aging for this one.

#WineStudio Concludes it's Two Month Foray into DO Rías Baixas

Our two month #WineStudio foray into DO Rías Baixas wine concluded May 31st as the focus continued with their signature grape Albariño.  This has been an eye-opening venture into the region's wine and history as explained in these earlier DO Rías Baixas posts. We will finish this series by commented on a few additional wines we sampled during the sessions.

2014 Santiago Roma DO Rías Baixas ($11). This 100% Albariño is made from grapes harvested from estate vineyards in the Salnés Valley. It is unique in the sense that it offers ripe red apples that then lead into a lemon-mint profile. This excellent value wine concludes with a mildly salty finish.

2013 Baladiña DO Rías Baixas Lagar de Besada ($16). This wine is also 100% Albariño from the Salnés Valley made from one of the first bonded wineries in DO Rias Baixas. It starts with stone fruit which is quickly followed by strong citrus flavors, mild minerals, and a somewhat tannic and very fresh acidic finish.

2014 Tomada de Castro DO Rías Baixas ($14). The Castros had been making homemade wine for a century when Carlos Castro took the venture public. It is another 100% Albariño with plenty of maritime influences. The wine possesses the more typical tropical and stone fruits, mild minerals and saline, sweeter acidic finish.

2015 Torre La Moreira DO Rías Baixas ($18). This wine is produced by Bodegas Marqués de Vizhoja, a historic estate from the 16th century located near the Portuguese border.  This may be my very favorite wine of the sessions with it's very intensive stone fruit flavor, saline and herbal notes, and bright finish. Well done indeed.

#WineStudio Presents Galicia – “Green” Spain and the Celtic Influence of Rías Baixas

During the height of Greek civilization between 800-400 B.C., the Celts, who we now associate with Scotland and Ireland, ruled over most of Central and Western Europe. In fact, the Alps mountain range is named from the Celtic Alpes, which itself is derived from a pre-Indo-European base alb (hill). Over time the Celts were pushed to the extremes of Europe - including Galacia where the Romans referred to them as Celtiberians - regardless whether they were ethnic Celts or a mix with Iberian tribes. (See The Celts in Spain). The Celtic presence explains why many Galicians are fair-skinned and eager participants in the production of wine as the ancient Celts were fans of wine, mead, and beer - which they called cervesia. (See Story of the Celts: The Ancient Celts). 

This week #WineStudio's Rías Baixas session focused on Galicia being called Green Spain as"its wet and mild ocean-controlled climate produces lush pastures and sylvan forests". And whether by intention or coincidence, the landscape of Galicia more closely resembles Celtic regions of Ireland, Great Britain & the west coast of France than the rest of Spain.  This greenness results from winds from the Atlantic Ocean bringing moisture inland which is then trapped by the Galician Massif mountains.This wind also carries sea spray inland which "permeates everything; soils, air and vine". And Galician's diet is based on the sea: fish, shellfish, and crustaceans. As a result many Rías Baixas wines carries some allotment of salt and minerals and the wines are bred to pair with seafood. And the two wines featured this session validate this claim.

2014 Lagar de Bouza DO Rías Baixas ($16) - produced by Bouza do Rei which was established in 1984 and was one of the first wineries registered in the newly created DO Rias Baixas. The winery is situated in Val do Salnés - the western most and most maritime extreme of Rías Baixas sub regions. The vineyards are located on small hills, most only 100 meters above sea level. And the vines are trained on granite posts to protect from humidity. This wine consists of 100% Albariño and exudes minerals that blend with and intense lemon flavor and abundant acids. Give me clams and oysters.

2014 Eidos de Padriñan DO Rías Baixas - Val do Salnés ($22) - this wine was produced by Adega Eidos, also located in Salnés, and launched in 1993. Eidos refers to the "backyard garden arbors constituting the traditional ungrafted Albariño vineyard" mentioned above.  Their Padriñán vineyard is south-facing and  overlooks the sea and receives additional heat exposure from "reflection from the water and a wind-sheltering stand of eucalyptus at the top of the slope". Despite the similar growing conditions this wine is a complete contrast to the Lagar de Bouza. Whereas the former was aggressive and citrus, this is a laid back wine, with textured tropical flavors include creamed guava and milder minerals and acids.  A very self assured wine and my favorite of the entire series.

Other DO Rias Baixas wines in this series can be seen here.

Rioja Red, White & Pink from CVNE

It seems like Spanish wine is trending, with #WineStudio's Rias Baixas Wines, Finca Hispana, and a recent care package from CVNE and it's more modern sister winery, Viña Real. CVNE (pronouned Coo-nay) was founded in 1879 by brothers Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asua in Haro, Rioja. The winery continues to be family owned and operated by Victor and Maria Umutia - 5th generation direct descendants of the brothers. About half of the grapes are grown in CVNE vineyards and the other from long term growers in Rioja. Here are three wines in their portfolio:


2015 Monopole Rioja 100% Viura ($13) - This wine is one smooth operator: laid back, self-assured, stony and creamy orange blossoms, with just enough acids to make you notice. It is the oldest white wine in Spain with CVNE has produced it since 1915. The Viura grape is also used in Cava and is known outside of Spain as Macabeo. But in Rioja it is the most widely planted white grape variety.


 2015 Viña Real Rosado ($15) - 85% Viura & 15% Tempranillo. Although the Viña Real brand was introduced in the 1920s, the winery in Laguardia is as contemporary as any Spanish winery.  This graphic explains all. The rosado is a very light rosé, starts off floral and ends citrus and decent acids.

2015 Cune Rosado ($13) - 100% Tempranillo. The darker color results from extended skin contact. This is an intense rosé with ripe strawberries throughout and a decent dose of acids. Comes across slightly sweet not from residual sugar but from the juicy flavor.