The United Grapes of America - West Virginia - Forks of Cheat Winery Chambourcin

After several years of home wine making, recognition in amateur competitions, and the support of his friends, Jerry Deal decided to turn his hobby into a business by establishing Forks of Cheat Winery in July of 1990. The winery releases a range of wines made from estate, West Virginia, and American grown vinifera, French hybrid, and American grape varietals. Their estate is particularly advantageous as the slopes allow cold air to pass and settle below and thus rarely do they loss crops to frost. Their Dry Chambourcin ($13) is made from a blend of estate and West Virginia grown fruit and is very reminiscent of the style for that grape. There are noticeable cherry fruit and spicy characters as well as decent acids and modest tannins. A very drinkable wine from the Mountaineer state. Cheers

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West-Whitehill Winery

It is becoming common knowledge that some form of wine is produced in every state and within scenic West Virginia about 15 wineries call home. The eastern section of the state, the Potomac Highlands, contains the South Branch Valley which is a small micro climate. Called a Rain Shadow, the area receives little precipitation and low humidity because they are located on the leeward side of the Allegheny Front. (See picture below for more information.) For almost thirty years, West-Whitehill Winery has been cultivating French Hybrid grapes in the valley and selling the wines to a steadily growing domestic market.

Because of this domestic market, the wines are made on the sweeter side. The only completely dry offerings are a nice medium bodied Chambourcin aged in French oak and a Seyval Blanc. They also produce the West Virginia red which is basically the Chambourcin made off-dry. Our favorites were the two semi-dry wines, the Vidal Blanc and a second Seyval Blanc - both made with about 1.5% r.s. Both portray nice fruit characteristics, but we were won over by the acidic content. Both are refreshing wines.

The most interesting wine is their Aurora Blush. I wonder how many readers have even heard of this grape, or of the Chancellor that is added to enhance the color. Its actually a decent wine, not necessarily fitting into our tastes, but during a visit a couple entered the tasting room and purchased a case. That's how the winery stays in business. With assistance from the sweet wines. There's the Highland Mist, a blend of hybrid grapes and orange and lemon spices; the Mountain Spice, this time with cloves and cinnamon added to the juice; the Classic Currant and the Raspberry Royale. These last two are definitely worth tasting; for us - substitutes for dessert wines - for others - table wines. The Currant wine is made from California juice and white grapes. The flavor basically explodes off the tongue - how many currants are picked to make a bottle? The Raspberry Royale is a blend of the Aurore and red raspberries and the flavor also stays in the mouth from the initial taste to the tail.

West-Whitehill Winery is a small winery, making only about 2,000 cases a year. Their tasting room is only open during the weekend, so most of their wines are sold in retail outlets - particularly tourist shops. In Thomas, we noticed several customers carrying 3 bottle boxes purchased from the Riverfront Antiques & Thrift. Why not a bottle of wine as a souvenir or a gift.

Forks of Cheat Winery

From Deep Creek Cellars, I headed west into Morgantown West Virginia, to visit one of our favorite wineries, Forks of Cheat Winery. We first tasted their wine at last year’s Berkeley Springs wine festival and fell in love with their fruit wines and the Foch based -Black Jewel Port. Today the winery was hosting Red Wine Tasting and Sales event which included entertainment from the bluegrass group, Weedhawks. Forks of Cheat is owned and operated by Jerry and Susan Deal, and their son Eric. The family is extremely hospitable and friendly, ready to engage in conversation and discuss their “hobby”. The winery opened in 1990, and it is best to quote why: “Who would have thought that getting caught stealing grapes would lead Jerry Deal to ownership of one of West Virginia’s foremost wineries? Well, that’s just what happened! When a neighbor chastised Jerry for eating grapes from her vines (on his side of the fence), he planted his own. In no time at all, the grape vines were so prolific that eating them all was out of the question. Wine making was the next choice. After several years of home wine making, recognition in amateur competitions, and the support of his friends, Jerry Deal decided to turn his hobby into a business. And so, Forks of Cheat Winery was established in July of 1990.”

The hobby struggled initially since selling wine in a small state, where 98% of the population doesn’t drink, was extremely difficult. And of the 2% that did drink, they preferred beer and liquor. But eventually advice from a UWV professor changed this situation. This professor told the Deal’s that their business model was flawed, instead of selling wine, Forks of Cheat sells gifts. Even if someone doesn’t drink, they know someone who does, so buy the wine as a gift. To facilitate this model, Eric has design award winning labels and custom labels for special occasions. The result, the winery now sells 2 dozen types of wine, and they just became the state’s third bonded distillery.

After hearing Mr. Deal explain the tax situation, I wonder why they started the distillery. The Federal government taxes the whiskey based on bulk product and proof. Thus, if the liquor is 150%, then the feds tax it 1.5 times. Then the state taxes the wholesale product at 28%, and the retail tax is 11%. How will they make a profit? We will see because the liquor will finally be available by the end of this month. The brandy (Peach, Pear, Blackberry, Cherry and Apple) will have low alcohol levels, since they want to market the wine to older women, who prefer a less alcoholic brandy. And eventually Forks of Cheat will produce Grappa, made from the second fermentation of skins, stems, seeds, etc from the wine grapes.

Even though Forks of Cheat is located just on the outskirts of Morgantown, it seems as if it is situated far into the countryside. The winery overlooks a small valley, with the vines planted on the sloped below. There are two decks; the larger surrounded by beautiful landscaping and Koi ponds. Even without today’s music, this is a great environment to share a glass of wine, relaxing in the sun or shade.

Since it was a red wine tasting event, that’s all I drank. These wines included the viniferia Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and the hybrid DeChaunac, Chambourcin, Baco Noir, and Leon Millot based Burgundy as well as the sweet Van Buren. The Van Buren is similar to Concord and is one of the winery’s best sellers. I really enjoyed the hybrids; all are medium bodied wines with low tannins which provide a smooth finish. The Chambourcin is slightly spicier than the Baco Noir and Burgundy, but each had a unique, drinkable flavor.

When visiting a winery, look for products that you normally do not have access to. Forks of Cheat produces plenty of these, such as their Niagara - Watson’s White Port, Bad Cat Catawba blush wine, the Baco Noir, DeChaunac, Leon Millot, and my favorite, the Foch – Black Jewel Port. And soon, you will have access to fruit liquor and Grappa. Quite a range of “gifts”.

Before leaving Morgantown Jerry recommended I purchase a bottle of Mountain Moonshine, distilled by his friend and West Virginia’s first distillery, the West Virginia Distilling Company. The whiskey is a clear corn whiskey made from 20% corn and 80% neutral grains. The whiskey is very clean tasting, with a slight sweetness; but be prepared, this whisky is strong.

Forks of Cheat Winery - Black Jewel Port

Forks of Cheat is located in Morgantown, West Virginia and specializes in making wine from hybrid and labrusca grapes. One of these is a port-styled wine made from Marechal Foch: Black Jewel Port. Forks of Cheat justly advertises that this wine won a bronze medal at the 2000 San Diego National Wine Competition and also a gold medal and best of show at the 2000 West Virginia Wineries Competition.

We opened a bottle this weekend and what a surprise. The wine is sweet, but not sugary - with a great cherry flavor. We drank it in the glass and over ice cream. And at around $17, this wine is a great value.