Happy Hour with Art of Earth Organic Wines from Mendoza

This weekend we enjoyed a happy hour courtesy of samples from importer Mack & Schuhle. These are organic wines from Mendoza produced by Art of Earth Organic Wines and retail at an extremely affordable $11.99. Art of Earth is comprised of organic vineyards across the globe. The Argentinean contingent consists of 29 cooperatives (5,000 winegrowers) managing 25,000 hectares (more than 60,000 acres) of vineyard plantings located throughout Mendoza and San Juan. 

The grapes for both wines are derived from grapes grown in the San Martín district of Mendoza. The organic vineyards are located at 700 to 800 meters and the presence of the Andes Mountains acts as a barrier to the humid winds of the Pacific. The climate is continental with areas of semi-arid desert conditions with alluvial soils ranging from sandy to loam. 

The 2021 Chardonnay starts with a tropical and citrus nose then moves to fresh pears and tropical notes (mostly pineapples), slight lemons and vibrant acidity.

The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is fresh with tart berries, a very solid mouthfeel, approachable tannins, and juicy acidity. This one went much quicker than expected.

Reviewing the Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012

Amarone della Valpolicella is a style of wine making in the Valpolicella viticultural region in the Italian province of Verona. Amarone wines are made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara and Versonese grapes that are placed in open crates to dry for a number of months in a process called appassimento. From its inception in 1936, the Cesari winery under founder Gerardo Cesari has been producing Amarone wines with the Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2012 ($40) the latest release. The winery utilizes Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara grapes that are sun dried for four months then fermented very slowly on their skins.  The wine then undergoes an extensive aging regime, a mixture of French oak barriques and large Slavonian oak barrels for one year, then blended and aged 18 additional months.  Once bottled, the wine rests for eight months before release. Amarone wines are considered very age-able and when I first opened the wine was very tight, a restricted aroma and soft flavor. I lightly corked the bottle and opened the next evening and the wine had transformed into a beauty. Dark fruit and spice on the nose,  more dark fruit and chocolate melting through a soft mid-palate, and finishing very smooth with a slight spicy character.  With patience, nicely done.

Veneto, Valpolicella, Appassimento, Corvina, and the Zenato 2012 Alanera Rosso Veronese IGT

Italy's Veneto region is most known for its Soave wines; but their reds have been somewhat a mystery.  My main exposure was a Protocol Wine Studio session last year focusing on the Valpolicella DOC. Fortunately, Leonardo LoCascio Selections has allowed me to revisit the region by sending me the 2012 Alanera Rosso Veronese IGT ($20, 13.5% abv). It is produced by the Zenato winery, which was founded in 1960 by Sergio and Carla Zenato and is a leading producer of Lugana, Valpolicella and Amarone wines.

Like Amarone wine, the 2012 Alanera Rosso Veronese IGT is made using the local appassimento method in which 50% of the red grapes (predominately Corvina) are partially dried before fermenting. The process concentrates the fruit and provides earthier attributes, but doesn't sweeten the wine as I has expected. Besides Corvina, the blend for the Alanera also includes the native Rondinella, Corvinone, and smaller percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - with a portion of each variety partially dried using the appassimento method.  And the name Alanera is a tribute to the Corvina grape, raven in Italian, and thus Alanera or "black wing". 

The wine is extremely dark, another attribute of Corvina, and starts with sweet tobacco and leather on the nose. The flavor is similar to chewing on dried cherries - there's a velvety texture - with the wine finishing dry and tannic. After decanting, the tannins mellowed quite nicely and the dark cherry flavors deepened. A very nice and approachable wine.

Black Box Wines: Sauvignon Blanc

As a member of Foodbuzz, we received an offer to review a wine from Black Box Wines, a brand that offers "a full range of high end box wines crafted from grapes grown in the world’s best winegrowing regions". Now, our regular readers know that we are fans of some box wines and laud the virtues of this serving vessel. To summarize, box wines oxidize quite slowly after opening (Black Box states that their wines remain fresh for at least four weeks after opening) and they offer convenient usage (portable to the beach, boats, picnics, etc). They are also cheaper to produce and to transport - equating to lower prices coming form the wallet. And in many cases, you can find quality wine coming out of a box.

Black Box Wines offers several brands - Cabernet Sauvignon * Merlot * Shiraz * Chardonnay * Pinot Grigio * Sauvignon Blanc * Riesling * Reserve Merlot * Reserve Chardonnay - and we received a New Zealand made Sauvignon Blanc. In general we prefer other varietals to Sauvignon Blanc, but New Zealand provides some of the best SB growing regions - particularly the Hawkes Bay, Marlborough and Gisborne - where grapes for this wine were grown. The box retails for $25, which translates to a little over $6 for a 750ml bottle equivalent. We punctured the box, removed the seal and poured a couple glasses and allowed the wine's temperature to raise a little. A nice floral aroma slowly developed as the wine warmed - however when tasted - the wine had no real acidity. That's odd, because New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is known for providing a refreshing acidic feel. Even worse, the wine had no real flavor and was hindered by a dull metallic finish. Basically I can't tell if this particular box was just a dud, or if this brand is just not good. basically we now have 4 weeks to save as cooking wine. We will check back with one of the their other varietals - maybe a red - to determine if this was an isolated incident or a painful trend.

Chamarré Wines

Recently we got our hands on a few French wines distributed in the United States by OWS under the Chamarré label. According to their website, “The Other Wine & Spirits CY is a brand-driven organization dedicated to the development of wine and spirits brands. We are the sister company of OVS, the mastermind behind the Chamarré Brand concept and the creator of the unique association of the largest wine cooperative and producers in France's history.”

Made by winemaker, Renaud Rosari, Chamarré wines fall under three product lines: Grande Réserve, AOC, and Duo Varietal. Chamarré Grande Réserve wines are vertical blends of single grape varietals, picked in France’s best-producing regions. The AOC wines are a blend of traditional French AOC with the most prestigious AOC wines. And the Duo Varietal wines are a blend of two varietals typical of a French wine-producing region, in which a second varietal brings complexity, fruit and depth to the main varietal.

We tried three Chamarré wines: the Grand Reserve Pinot Noir, the AOC Jurançon, and the Duo Varietal Grenache-Shiraz. The later is a rosé-styled wine in which the Shiraz brings “freshness and structure” and the Grenache “its Mediterranean body and elegance”. This is a very dry wine, which at first we did not know how to appraise. We had been drinking many fruit forward semi-dry rosé wines and this one was completely different. After drinking one glass for three successive nights we became fascinated with this wine. The initial taste and nose are soft; I guess that is “the elegance”. However, the beauty is the finish; a long lasting, complex sensation of bubbling fruit. The finish stayed with you longer than any wine I’ve tasted.

The Jurançon wine is a blend of Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng, traditional grape varietals grown in the Jurançon region in southwest France. According to many sources, it is said that Jurançon was used to baptize King Henri IV of France. The Chamarré Jurançon is made sweet with, according to my impression, a pineapple-citrus flavor. However, we served the wine to friends, and received several different interpretations. One person compared it to a good mead wine, whereas another said, no, it just has the aroma and taste of honeysuckle. Others tasted mango, some tasted pineapple, whereas only a few tasted my original pineapple-citrus assessment. Regardless all liked the taste and were disappointed when told we only had one bottle.

Our favorite of the three was the Grand Reserve Pinot Noir. This is particularly surprising since our wine cellar is stocked with Zinfandel, Norton, Chambourcin, and high alcohol, full bodied cabs. We never joined the Pinot bandwagon; although I guess, it’s never too late. This Pinot Noir is a vertical blend of Pinot grapes grown throughout France. It is full-bodied, yet soft – not overwhelming; it compliments meals without overpowering them. The wine is aged 6 months in oak which produces a soft, smooth finish. Well done.

In sum, the Chamarré wines we tasted were very good and very different from most of the “New World” wines we had been drinking. If you have a chance we recommend trying a Chamarré wine. Just look for the butterfly.

Michel-Schlumberger - 2005 Pinot Blanc

A relative recently gave us a bottle of Michel-Schlumberger's 2005 Pinot Blanc that they had received through their California wine of the month club. We eagerly opened the bottle in order to sample a California wine, since lately, we had been trying to reduce our surplus of east coast wines. The Alsace native Pinot Blanc thrives on the hillsides near the Pacific Ocean, where the cool air allows the grapes to ripen slowly, producing ripe flavors without excessive sugar. This wine is made extremely dry, but the finish is very refreshing; the citrus aroma continues through the body and finish. Aging the wine in steel allows the grape's fruitiness to dominate with a slight spiciness for balance. We would strongly suggest serving this wine with a meal, the winery suggests Thai, but we feel the wine should compliment both spicy and milder foods. The wine retails for $21 so it's a good alternative to higher priced chardonnays or any Pinot Grigio.

Alba Vineyards - Delaware Dolce

We've been drinking alot of dessert wines lately and one of our favorites is Alba Vineyard's Delaware Dolce. The wine consists of 100% Delaware grape, named from the surrounding Delaware County or Delaware River. Alba Vineyard's Delaware grapes are grown in their vineyards just 2 miles from the Delaware River. This grape is a native Labrusca that we will discuss in next Monday's Wine 101 posting.

The Delaware Dolce reminds us of the great Tokaji Aszu wines. In fact, it has won medals at several international wine competitions such as the Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, the Florida State Fair International Wine Competition, the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, and the Taster's Guild International. The wine's nose is a combination of pineapple and honey; whereas the flavor is fruity, primarily apricot. At the finish, the muskiness of the Labrusca grape is barely distinuishable. Instead the finish is balanced between sweetness and acidity of the wine. At $19.99, the Delaware Dolce is very affordable as compared to the Tokaji or other premium dessert wines.

Duplin Winery - Magnolia

While two of our editors were enjoying themselves at the South Beach Wine & Food Festival, the rest of us drowned our sorrows by cleaning out the wine cellar. We stumbled upon a wine that we couldn't remember purchasing: Duplin Winery's Magnolia. We most likely purchased the wine during a trip to the Outer Banks and it languished in our cellar since. Now, Magnolia is a Muscadine derivative and we know several of you have either never had the chance to try a muscadine wine or never cared to. But we believe you must treat each grape on its own merits and wineries must produce wine from grapes which grow in their specific environment. And in the South, that's the muscadine grape. We opened the bottle expecting an overly sweet wine, but we were quickly proven wrong. The wine had the characteristic muscadine nose and fruity flavor - but it was different from several of the muscadines that we had previously tasted. It had a great balance of sweetness and acidity, which didn't leave a sugary residue in your palate. It was actually quite refreshing and I was sorry to see it go - the bottle didn't last the night. Intrigued by the wine, I checked Duplin's website and found that their Magnolia is a star. For the past two years it was awarded the Muscadine Cup from the North Carolina Grape Council and Double Gold at the North Carolina State Fair Commercial Wine Competition. The award list for this wine contains all the major wine competitions throughout the country - from the Finger Lake International Wine Competition to the L.A. County Fair. What a lucky find. Duplin Winery has a large selection of other muscadine wines as well as a few fruit and viniferia wines. This spring or summer, if you are travelling to the Outer Banks or another southern beach destination you should be able to find a Duplin wine - and we strongly recommend their Magnolia. And at $7.50, what a bargain.

Linganore Winecellars - Maryland Merlot

This week we opened our last bottle of Linganore Winecellar's Maryland Merlot, the winner of the 2005 Governor's Cup. This is a great full-bodied wine, with a strong cherry nose and flavor. The finish is long and smooth. The grapes are from the Hemsley Fortune Vineyard in Queen Anne's County. Perhaps conditions in southern Maryland are similar to those in Long Island, because if you like Long Island Merlot, you will love this wine. We also recommend visiting Linganore Winecellars. They host several music festivals throughout the summer and fall such as the Caribbean Wine Festival, Swingin' Blues Wine Festival, and Reggae Wine Festival. And during the winery tour, Anthony Aellen, the winery’s owner, presents a colorful commentary of both his wine as well as the American wine industry in general. We will miss this wine. In a few weeks we will post on the 2006 Maryland Governor's Cup winner, Frederick Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2001.

Forks of Cheat Winery - Black Jewel Port

Forks of Cheat is located in Morgantown, West Virginia and specializes in making wine from hybrid and labrusca grapes. One of these is a port-styled wine made from Marechal Foch: Black Jewel Port. Forks of Cheat justly advertises that this wine won a bronze medal at the 2000 San Diego National Wine Competition and also a gold medal and best of show at the 2000 West Virginia Wineries Competition.

We opened a bottle this weekend and what a surprise. The wine is sweet, but not sugary - with a great cherry flavor. We drank it in the glass and over ice cream. And at around $17, this wine is a great value.

Stone Hill Winery - Hermannsberger

If you are looking for an excellent value wine, we suggest Stone Hill Winery's Hermannsberger. This is a dry, medium-bodied blend of Norton, Vincent, and Chambourcin. It has a strong, fruity aroma with a smooth finish. Whereas the Hermannsberger can't complete in overall quality with Stone Hill's vintage Norton, at $10 a bottle, its a great everyday table wine. And in the wine's defense, it did win a Silver medal at the 2006 Missouri State Fair. The winery recommends drinking with pizza, pasta, steaks or burgers. We also recommend letting the bottle breathe a few minutes. If your on a budget and can't afford their Norton, the Hermannsberger is the best alternative.

Naked Mountain Vineyard 2005 Cabernet Franc Rosé

We've been drinking several different types of rosè styled wines lately, first to try something different, then because we like them. One that stands out is Naked Mountain Vineyard's 2005 Cabernet Franc Rosé. Naked Mountain Vineyard is known locally for their outstanding Chardonnay wines and more recently for their Cabernet Franc. Usually their Cabernet Franc is a full bodied wine, with a deep burgundy color; however the grapes from the 2005 harvest did not develop this deep color. As a result, Naked Mountain's owner and winemaker, Bob Harper, applied minimal skin contact to produce a garnet colored wine, but with the full fruit flavor of cabernet franc. The finish is slightly acidic with a hint of oranges. Even though rosè wine are more associated with summer, this wine works with winter.

Winery at La Grange Viognier 2005

Last night we opened a bottle of Chris Pearmund's Winery at La Grange Viognier 2005. What a wine. It has a citrus flavor with a refreshing acidic finish, with a perfect balance betwen dryness and sweetness. I know that sounds a bit silly, but its true. No wonder this wine won a Silver Medal at 2006 2nd Annual Atlantic Seaboard Competition. Actually I'm surprised it didn't win Gold. You can view our visit to the Winery at La Grange at our Compass Tours section.