Exploring Zagreb County and Its Culture, History, and Wine

I wish I had known last year, but Croatia's capital is surrounded by historical medieval towns, wine roads, and a gastronomical paradise. These are all easily accessible from a short drive from Zagreb and available for research through the Zagreb County Tourist Board. Within this parameter, I was able to spend time in the Turopolje region to the south and Plešivica to the west.  Each of these regions share many cultural identities but are also quite unique and in both instances, I would recommend starting with the Muzej Turopolja in Velika Gorica and the Samobor Museum in Samobor. 

Turopolje & Velika Gorica 

Velika Gorica is the unofficial capital of Turopolje and is situated only 16 kilometers from Zagreb and just south of the Franjo Tuđman Airport.  In Old Slavonic, Turopolje means "bull field" or "field of bulls" so expect to see murals of bulls within the city. Start at the Muzej Turopolja to receive an overview of the region's history and culture where you will learn about Andautonia (the seat of an Illyrian tribe and a Roman municipality), the Turopolje pig (an indigenous breed where the first written record dates back to 1352), the Coat of Arms of numerous noble families in the Free City, and the Turopolje wooden architecture -  whether for housing or wooden chapels. I didn't get to visit any wooden chapels but according to the tourist board, "the wooden chapel of St. Barbara in Velika Mlaka is the most attractive and certainly the most representative example of wooden church architecture in Croatia".  However, the Muzej Turopolja provides an interactive display showing the German or Croatian joints used for building these structures. As for craft beverages, plan a tasting of brandies and gin at Brigljevic Distillery, or ask around for homemade wine or rakija. I was fortunate enough to have a tour of the private vineyards of Nikola Hrvacic and taste his award-winning Vermouth. 

Samobor

Samobor is a picturous medieval town located west of Zagreb on the eastern slopes of the Samobor hills which separate Slovenia from Croatia. It has played a significant role in Croatia's national identity starting with it becoming a free royal town in 1242 as established by King Béla IV of Hungary.  The Samobor Museum documents this and many other instances of promoting the Croatian language and identity in a town located at the crossroads of the Austrian Empire. This might also explain why there are so many items designated by the EU or UN as culturally and historically significant to Croatia. This includes the aromatized wine Samoborski Bermet and Muštarda -- a sweet and spicy sauce made from local mustard seeds and sweet grape must  (See Samoborski Bermet - Croatia's First Protected Aromatized Wine). There's also the light and creamy Samoborska kremšnita, crystal,  and the Gingerbread and Licitar Hearts which are on the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Licitars are hard, sweet, decorated biscuits that in Croatia are heart-shaped and painted red, then decorated with pictures, small mirrors, and verses or messages.

Plešivica Wine Road

The majority of our time was spent visiting wineries along the Plešivica Wine Road (the smallest wine region in Croatia) from our base at the Princess Hotel in Jastrebarsko -- 25 km south of Samobor. In two days we managed to visit 6 of the 35 wineries on the wine road starting with the highly regarded Korak Family Estate Winery. This is a family estate, run by the 4th and 5th generations of grape growers and located on a family home and farmhouse that dates from 1900.  Velimir Korak currently operates the winery along with his youngest son Josip. Across multiple estates throughout Plešivica, they grow Rhine Riesling, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Portuguese with most of the estates situated between 350m to 400m above sea level and separated from Slovenia by the Žumberak and Samobor Mountains. The family has also been instrumental in developing Plešivica as a gastronomic destination as a result of Michelin star chef, and older son, Bernard Korak returning home to open the farm-to-table Korak Restaurant within the renovated winery. We tasted through most of their portfolio which includes still, sparkling, and amphora amber wines starting with the Sparkling Rose and Blanc de Blanc. Both are elegant and refreshing with a bottle of the Sparkling Pinot Noir ready to be opened here at home. I also really enjoyed the 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, 2020 Rhine Riesling, and the 2019 Križevac & Cimbuščak Pinot Noir - the latter a blend from two different estates.  This was an eye-opening experience that introduced us to the prevalence and quality of these grape varieties in Plešivica.

Robert Braje's Winery is situated in a valley surrounded by vineyards, near Jastrebarsko, and the rustic, wooden tasting room is a destination itself. The family has an interesting pedigree story to tell in that during the 1950s, Robert's Grandfather discovered a wine competition in Zagreb and created a homemade label for his homemade wine. After being awarded a diploma (medal), authorities threw him in jail because he was not authorized to produce wine. Fortunately, he was released rather quickly as there was no real regulation that he had violated. This award-winning winemaking was on display during our visit as we tasted several of Robert's wines while his wife Sanda served us Soparnik, a traditional Croatian dish of savory pie with fresh cheese and herbs.  The tasting started with a mystery wine, Veltlinac Cirveni, which we later determined to be Roter Veltliner. This Austrian grape has been planted in Plešivica for at least 300 years and makes a light wine with a noticeable floral aroma and plenty of acidity. Next, we were presented with solid representations of Pinot Sivi (Gris) and Rhine Riesling -- tart, citrus, and minerally driven for the first; full mouthfeel and structure for the second.  Finally, we tasted another Pinot Noir which strengthened our conviction of the quality of this varietal wine in Plešivica. The 2018 Pinot Crni was fermented in an open barrel and spent 12 months in small used barrels. This is an elegant wine that starts with velvety slightly tart cherries, texture, and firm tannins. Excellent. 

Šember is a three-generation family winery farming various estates in Pjenusac and with an extensive sparkling wine portfolio.  The winery is currently run by Zdenko Šember and his wife Ivanka with his parents (Ružica and Stjepan) passing along their experience to the younger generation -- Nikola, Lucija, and Klara.  The family began releasing wine under their own label in 1991, their first sparkling wine in 1997, and their first amphora wine in 2011. Always innovating. We started with the delicious Šember Brut Rosé - a fruity raspberry and effervescent Pinot Noir. This was followed by the Šember Pjenusac Brut, a traditionally made Blanc de Blanc but using Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Plavec Žuti - the latter providing increased acidity.  Expect pears, green apples, and yeasty bread. The final sparkling wine was the 2018 Pavel, a label created only in the best of years, This is a blend of Chardonnay (90) and Plavec Žuti (10) and is exceptional. Moving to the still wines, we started with the dry 2019 Rhine Riesling which provides a complex arrangement of grapefruit, other citrus, and green apples. The skin-contact amphora 2017 Rhine Riesling followed that had a bigger mouthfeel, and more tannins, but remained considerably fresh. Once again an incredibly elegant Pinot Noir rounded out our tasting with the 2018 Pinot Crni. This is a fresh wine where the grapes were planted on south-facing slopes and benefited from cool nights. The barrel aging in a combination of new and used French oak, elevated its profile without hampering the cherry flavors.

Jagunic Winery is a 4th generation wine-making team situated at the top of a small hill with broad views of the surrounding vineyards. The three Jagunic brothers currently farm eight estate locations located within a kilometer radius of the winery.  Our host, Dominik Jagunic, says all grapes are hand-harvested and they focus on producing sparkling and amber wines. These styles were on display with the traditional method Three Stars Brut - a blend of Chardonnay, indigenous varieties, and Rhine Reisling from three estate locations. Tropical and stone fruits with an extended finish. The Blanc de Noirs followed with its interestingly fresh tart cherries and slight smokiness spanning a great mouthfeel. The La Bulle Rose is a 70-30 blend of Blauer Portugieser and Pinot Noir and was the lightest and most refreshing of the three. We then turned to their Amber Selection starting with the 2020 Pinot Sivi which spent six months with skin contact in seven-year-old barrels and quickly moving to the 2020 Pinot Crni. Both are solid wines with plenty of character. The final wine was the 2020 Amber Selection Traminac Crveni which showcases a strong floral aroma that elevates into an apricot, kiwi, and herbaceous profile. A very smooth mouthfeel. These wines were also accompanied by a feast prepared by Dominik's mother of beef soup, salad, homemade bread, and a tray of veal neck and chicken stuffed with cheese and ham. Complete fulfillment.

Our final stop in Plešivica was at Kolarič Winery, a family winery that also includes 16 guest rooms for weary travelers.  Franjo Kolarič has eight hectares of estate grapes in the Sveta Jana winegrowing region and sources from another 15 hectares of cooperatives. He focuses on Pinot Grigio and created the Coletti label specifically for his upper-tier wines which is the Italian version of the family name. He also uses four 1,200 liter amphora vessels for amber wine production. The Coletti Amfora Pinot Grigio 2019 was an example of this style that spent one year on skins with a full-bodied, complex mouthfeel buttressed by chewy tannins. The Coletti Amfora Pinot Grigio 2020 is lighter with the addition of 20% Traminac.  The Coletti Pinot Grigio Classic is their best seller, spends all its time in stainless steel, and is fresh with plenty of grapefruit notes. The 2019 Coletti Grande Grigio spent two years in eight-year-old Slavonian oak and has a much richer mouthfeel and a longer finish. The most interesting Pinot Grigio was the Coletti Francesco Grande which uses wine from three vintages 2019-2021 and shows complex minerality and herbaceousness.  And to follow the Pinot Noir trend Franjo provided us samples of his 2018 Coletti Pinot Nero and NV Coletti Sparkling Rose. The 2018 is excellent after spending three years in French oak has a balanced mouthfeel with a chewy texture, and some vanilla to counter the fresh cherries. The sparkling rose is fresh showing tart cherries and a lasting effervescence.

Samoborski Bermet - Croatia's First Protected Aromatized Wine

In 1812, when America was fighting its second war against Great Britain, Napoleon's troops occupied parts of the Austrian Empire including the Plešivica region and the town of Samobor, a free royal town since 1242 as established by King Béla IV. Whether the troops introduced "moustard" to the region or provided its name, Samobor is known for their Muštarda -- a sweet and spicy sauce made from local mustard seeds and sweet grape must. 

The troops most likely also sampled Bermet, a local aromatized wine made with a specific sweet-bitter taste. This beverage was first concocted by physicians for medicinal purposes as indicated by a 1755 document from the manual of pharmacists of the Samobor Franciscan monastery. It was soon adopted by multiple Noble families as an aperitif. Since Samobor was a trading center located at the crossroads of the Austrian Empire, these recipes included various Mediterranean fruits and herbs, such as wormwood, carob, dried figs, candied sugar, and nutmeg. 

Because of Bermet's historic production in Samobor and the desire to protect and promote that tradition, on "March 22, 2017, the Croatian Ministry of Agriculture approved the product specification for the existing geographical indication of aromatized wine products: 'Samoborski bermet', making it the only protected aromatized wine product in the Republic of Croatia".  In 2020, the European Union extended this designation throughout Europe under the geographic quality schemes -- which "establish intellectual property rights for specific products, whose qualities are specifically linked to the area of production". These are systems similar to the national appellation systems used for wine throughout Europe.

Members of the Filipec family have been making Bernet and Muštarda since at least 1812. The Filipecs were leather makers with the tannery located steps from Samobor's main square. However, in 1946, the tannery was confiscated from Josip Joca Filipec, who in need of a livelihood, started producing Bermet and Muštarda commercially.  Upon his death, he distributed the Bermet production to his eldest son Vojko and the Muštarda production to his youngest son Antun Dubravko. 

In 1999 grandson Antun officially opened Podrumi Philipecz after renovating the old tannery discovering an old well and forced to work with the sloping floors of the former factory.   Antun also augmented into producing more traditional still and sparkling wines -- some produced partially using a wooden press built in 1864. These include delicious Grasevina, Pinot Sivi (Pinot Gris), a Rose Tia, and Cuvee Roko. 

Returning to Bermet, Antun uses a Frankovka (Blaufranish) and Blauer Portugieser (both grown on the nearby Samobor Mountains) as a base then blends in the proprietary ingredients (certainly wormwood, carob, oranges, and dried figs) and aging six months in oak. The current version (18%) starts with an herbaceous aroma and then moves between sweet and bitter with both the wine and bitterness alternating taking center stage. 

During our visit, Antun showed us how Bermet ages, even after opening as the herbs act as a preservative. The 2009 shows less bitterness but richer figs and orange with a mint aroma. The 2006 is more bitter as the wormwood dominates. Finally, the 1992 retains a remarkable freshness with a strong aroma of various fruits and herbs and just a hint of bitterness. I purchased a bottle in hopes of witnessing the wine develop over the next couple of decades. And every year post an updated tasting note. Cheers.

Grape Spotlight: Fiano di Avellino with Feudi di San Gregorio

Like all the so-called archeological vines of Campania, Fiano barely escaped extinction. In the 1930s, the region was hit with phylloxera. That blight was followed by the devastation of World War II, which left Campania felix smoldering. During post-war recovery, the government encouraged farmers to plant prolific workhorse grapes like Malvasia and Trebbiano. Fiano, with its small berries and naturally low yields, was abandoned. Ode to an Ancient Grape: Fiano - Patricia Thomson

Fiano di Avellino DOCG (2003) is an appellation for white wine, located in the Avellino province within the Campania region and just to the south of our last Grape Spotlight -- Greco di Tufo.  

Fiano was saved from extinction by the Mastroberardino family and by other small producers and now is grown in several regions of 

Campania. However, it flourishes in the area of Avellino which is closest to the Apennine Mountains. This smaller region maintains its own mild microclimate; large diurnal temperature variations; and mineral-rich, volcanic, and calcareous soils.

Fiano most likely was recognized as a distinct grape variety over two thousand years ago. Its name is derived from Vitis apiana, meaning vine beloved of bees.  A different kind of vineyard pest. According to wine-searcher.com, "this wine was appreciated in the Middle Ages. The story goes that Charles d'Anjou, King of Naples, was so enamored with this variety that he had 16,000 Fiano vines planted in the royal vineyards". 

Over 20 years ago the Capaldo and Ercolino families established Feudi di San Gregorio in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in order to produce wines from indigenous grapes well suited to the porous volcanic soils of Mount Vesuvius.  They stress the importance of the microclimate of Irpinia, a historical region of the Campanian Apennines, "where vineyards have always coexisted with fruit trees, woodland, olive trees and herbs: a rugged and yet gentle territory with a strong and genuine identity".  In addition, "Irpinia is an ancient inland whose vineyards were even described by ancient authors such as Pliny, Columella and Strabo. The Irpinia region is very varied, with a succession of mountains, hills and plains with rivers and streams in between. The territory’s orography causes a system of winds that gives the region good rainfall and creates a microclimate that sets it apart from the other Campania areas: vegetation is varied and thick; the short winters are extremely cold and snowy, while the summers are mild and long".

Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino 2019 ($28)
This wine aged for about four months in stainless steel and is a very unique profile with citrus notes mingling with spices and nuts. Such an interesting combination without oak treatment. Expect sufficient minerality and light acidity. Excellent. 

GPS and Organic Farming at Page Mill Winery

When the Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association refused to assist us in designing an itinerary during our visit to the region, Dane Stark of Page Mill Winery quickly responded and scheduled a tour and tasting of his facility. Over pours of wine and a tour, he described the history of the winery. Page Mill was founded in 1976 by his father Dick Stark, but construction started a year before when he dug a huge hole under the family's house on Page Mill Road in Los Altos Hills to build out a winery and cellar. For the next 28 years. the winery operated at their home at the base of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Eventually, Dane took over the operation, and in 2004, Dane moved the operation to the "underestimated" Livermore Valley.

Stark refers to Livermore as being underestimated because he says there is a false impression in the Bay area that the region is too hot for grapes. Apparently, the S.F. news channels include Livermore in their daily weather reports and not only does it have the highest temps in the region, but that high temperature often reaches into the 90s. However, Stark noted that these broadcasts don't include the nighttime temperatures which show a large diurnal swing and help prolong the growing season and increase acidity. 

Since moving to Livermore, Page Mill Winery's estate vineyard has been farmed organically and driving into the premises visitors immediately notice the cover crops and tractor-pulled chicken coup.  The chickens help control the insects and babydoll sheep are an alternative to mowing as their manure also acts as a fertilizer. In fact. "sheep offer some of the best natural fertilizers as their manure pellets take time to dissolve into the soil". And in 2019, Stark moved toward biodynamic farming with the first release of biodynamic wines planned for the 2022 vintage.  

In the meantime, Page Mill's current portfolio is outstanding.  We started with a lively 2021 Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc followed by the 2021 San Francisco Bay Chardonnay. The grapes derive from Page Mill's former location near the Santa Cruz Mountains. Interestingly the hierarchy of AVAs starts with the Central Coast AVA then down to the San Francisco Bay AVA which the Livermore Valley AVA is a sub-AVA within. We sampled a range of reds that truly showcased the diversity of the region from cool-climate Pinot Noir to a Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. My favorite was the GPS - a blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah, and Syrah that just melts the palate.  Looking forward to posting on its longevity by opening the 2016 I purchased.  

I also want to return on the third Sunday of every month for Page Mill's BYOB program where consumers can fill one of their bottles for $10. A great idea. 

Grape Spotlight: Greco di Tufo DOCG from Feudi di San Gregorio

"According to Greek researchers, the broader picture of Italians of 'Greek origin' such as Greco di Tufo, Grecanico, Grechetto actually look to be non-Greek as none of them share visual traits commonly carried by Greek varieties.", 'Greek' grape varieties in Italy not Greek? Jancis Robinson

   

Greco di Tufo is a DOCG (DOC in 1970; DOCG in 2003) of the Campania wine region in southern Italy and shares the name with the region's predominant grape. The Greco di Tufo grape variety is a clone of Greco Bianco and was once believed to have been introduced to Campania from ancient Greece. However, as stated in the Jancis Robinson article above, that view is strongly debated. 

Although the Greco di Tufo grape also grows in Lazio, it thrives in the tuff-filled, volcanic soil surrounding Tufo and the seven other villages. According to wine-searcher.com, "the name Tufo refers not only to one of the villages from which the wine comes but also to the type of rock on which the village was built. Known as tuff in English - but distinct from limestone tufa - it is made of ash ejected during an eruption which then compacts.

The vines from which Greco di Tufo wines are made are cultivated at an altitude of 450 to 500 meters (1,310–1,640ft), where the cooler temperatures allow grapes to enjoy the persistent summer sunshine without overheating or having their photosynthesis shut down. This allows them to ripen without losing too much acidity, an effect magnified by the higher diurnal temperature variation here. The best Greco di Tufo vineyards are found on the volcanic hills of the Avellino province in central Campania. Only eight villages can legally claim to make Greco di Tufo: Tufo, Montefusco, Petruro Irpino, Chianche, Torrioni, Altavilla, Irpina and Prata di Principato Ultra".

Over 20 years ago the Capaldo and Ercolino families established Feudi di San Gregorio in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in order to produce wines from indigenous grapes well suited to the porous volcanic soils of Mount Vesuvius.  They stress the importance of the microclimate of Irpinia, a historical region of the Campanian Apennines, "where vineyards have always coexisted with fruit trees, woodland, olive trees and herbs: a rugged and yet gentle territory with a strong and genuine identity".  In addition, "Irpinia is an ancient inland whose vineyards were even described by ancient authors such as Pliny, Columella and Strabo. The Irpinia region is very varied, with a succession of mountains, hills and plains with rivers and streams in between. The territory’s orography causes a system of winds that gives the region good rainfall and creates a microclimate that sets it apart from the other Campania areas: vegetation is varied and thick; the short winters are extremely cold and snowy, while the summers are mild and long".

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo 2020 ($28)
This wine was aged for four months in stainless steel tanks and in contact with its lees at all times. This process creates a richer body that allows the strong citrus profile and minerality to linger throughout the mouthfeel. There's also a hint of herbaceousness that comes worth with the steady acidity.  A beautiful wine. 

A Trio of Cabernet Barrel Choices at McGrail Vineyards and Winery

How often does a good experience result from rejection? During our spring BevFluence Experience, we planned an outing to visit wineries in nearby Livermore Valley. After the Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association flatly refused to assist us in designing an itinerary, an experienced wine industry friend recommended we contact Page Mill Winery and McGrail Vineyards and Winery directly.  And sure enough owner Dane Stark at Page Mill and winemaker Mark Clarin at McGrail quickly set time aside from their busy schedules to provide a tour and tasting at their respective facility. 

Regarding McGrail, we could have missed out on a unique horizontal tasting of their 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon aged in three different barrel types. In 1999, Jim and Ginger McGrail first planted a Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard where they originally sold the harvest to Steven Kent Winery. soon they started planning on opening a winery and tasting room which launched in April 2008. Late the following year they hired Mark Clarin as their winemaker and over a broad tasting of their wine, Mark described his career before McGrail. I strongly recommend subscribing to the Swig & Ramble podcast to hear this telling in his own words.

Since his hiring, Clarin has expanded the Cabernet Sauvignon program by again that wine in three sources of oak: French, American (Missouri), and Hungarian. To completely over-generalize and based on all toast levels, French oak barrels are made from a softer wood and tight grain and provide "a fruity, cinnamon/allspice character, along with custard/ crème brûlée, milk chocolate and campfire/ roasted coffee notes".   American oak barrels fall on the other side of the spectrum with denser grain, more porous, and provide vanilla, tobacco, dill, and baking spice character. Hungarian oak falls in between even though it's the same species as French oak and has "high perceived-vanillin content, with roasted coffee, bittersweet chocolate, and black pepper characters".  A comparison of French, Hungarian, and American Oaks

Each of the three wines is bottled and released separately and a portion of all three is blended together for their Cabernet Reserve.  According to McGrail, "the 2018 growing season was one of those “perfect” growing seasons with moderate temperatures in Spring and Summer, allowing for the wine to mature slowly and develop beautifully concentrated fruit flavors".  The wines were all made from grapes harvested from the McGrail Estate Vineyard. Conditions for an interesting comparative tasting. 

2018 Patriot Cabernet ($54)
The wine was aged in 100% new American oak from Missouri and after bottling aged an additional five months before release. The wine explodes with flavors and tannins with a large mouthfeel, cherry and vanilla, which transitions to a more earthy and tobacco character. This wine will be difficult to cellar since it's very drinkable now. 

2018 Good Life - A Jo Elet ($59)
This wine was aged for 32 months in new Hungarian Oak. This is a full-bodied and dense wine that even though has fresh fruit flavors, needs to pihenés for a number of years.  The juicy tannins envelop a plethora of spices and notes of vanilla, dark chocolate, leather, and some cinnamon and coffee, I will open my bottle on St. Stephen's Day 2025. 

2018 James Vincent ($79)
The James Vincent was barrel-aged for 35 months and then bottle-aged for 3 months before being released. This wine's quality and overall deliciousness substantiate the higher price. It is softer and more elegant with a fresh dark cherry aroma and flavor. It finishes with baking spices grappling with firm tannins for a long luscious tail. 

2018 Cabernet Reserve ($49)
This wine is an interesting blend of the three-barrel types which none taking center stage. It seems to have a darker fruit profile and the tannic structure falls closer to the Patriot. There are plenty of spices and earthy notes that compliment the mouthfeel and this one is drinking nicely right now. 

A special thanks to Mark Clarin for allocating time for us on such short notice and providing such a comprehensive tour of the wines, vineyard, and facility. And I apologize for not highlighting your phenomenal first release of Grenache Blanc. Cheers. 

What We Learned While Visiting Ridge Vineyards

During our BevFluence tour of Ridge Vineyards, we learned valuable insight into the geography, history, and production processes of this iconic winery.

The winery is located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, a mountain range in central and northern California that forms a ridge down the San Francisco Peninsula, south of San Francisco. They separate the Pacific Ocean from the San Francisco Bay and the Santa Clara Valley and are bisected by the San Andreas Fault. The tension within this tectonic boundary between the Pacific Plate and the North American Plate pushed limestone soil to the surface of Monte Bello Ridge in which Ridges' vineyards are planted. 

The current tasting room was formally the production winery. When Paul Draper joined the partnership in 1969, they quickly planned to transfer processing to the recently purchased and abandoned Monte Bello Winery located near the top of Monte Bello Ridge. This facility was originally constructed in the late 1880s by Osea Perrone who also planted the first vines on the ridge at the same time. The facility included a large cellar built into the mountainside and a spring where water can even run through the winery after heavy rains. 

Ridge implements regenerative farming practices that complement its organic philosophy.  They plant an extensive range of cover crops to add nitrogen and organic matter, increase the population of beneficial insects, control erosion, and control vine vigor in excessively fertile soils. They also planted hedgerows in vineyards to "help harbor and expand beneficial insect populations, provide shelter for animals, shade for waterways, fix carbon from the atmosphere, and break up the monoculture of vineyards". Finally, they practice no-till (mow only on alternative rows) on our hillside vineyard blocks to help minimize erosion and build organic matter in the soil.

Through its estate vineyards as well as plots they manage, the Ridge harvests a plethora of grape varieties. These include Picpoul (which is blended into their Grenache Blanc), Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Mataro, Carignane, Counose, Grenache, and Malvoisie. Vice President of Vineyard Operations, David Gates, even planted Croatian Tribidrag in their Lytton Estate from cuttings directly from Zinfandel's home country.  This replicated a similar venture where Puglia Primitivo clones were planted at the Lytton Estate.

When Draper arrived at Ridge he was inclined to use American oak barrels, but in 1974 they started a trial comparing wine aged in American and French oak. The American oak was sourced from a cooperage in the Ozarks using Appalachian wood and made in a smaller bourbon size.  After the trials, the team determined that the American oak was better suited for the Monte Bello vineyard’s tannic grapes. Since the American oak is twice as dense as French, it contains more spice and wood sugar compounds that slowly extract and fill out a wine’s body. 

In February 2022 the winery named Trester Goetting as Monte Bello Winemaker where he will take over all winemaking duties at Ridge Vineyards’ Monte Bello winery. Previously he was the head wine-maker at Robert Biale Vineyards where he focused on Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Bordeaux, and Rhône varietals from heritage vineyards. Perfect training for Ridges' similar focus. Good Luck,

Finally, the ridge sometimes becomes a home for rattlesnakes in June and October. When that occurs the snakes are trapped and relocated to more remote areas.

Mother's Day with Riondo Prosecco, Bormioli Rocco, and the Minute Mimosa Sugar Cube Trio

This week we received an excellent samples kit from Terlato Fine Wine featuring a newly reimaged Riondo Prosecco, Bormioli Rocco Italian cocktail glasses, and a Minute Mimosa Sugar Cube Trio.  This family's mother was very pleased. I mentioned the reimaged prosecco because Riondo changed the style from a fizzy frizzante to a full sparkling spumante. Based on Prosecco regulations, this required a change in closures from a frizzante screwcap to a spumante mushroom cork closure as spumante wines have greater effervescence. 

Riondo is named for nearby Mount Riondo and the brand produces DOC sparkling wines using the Charmat method from grapes grown in over 14,800 acres of vineyards in the Veneto region. The Riondo DOC Prosecco Extra Dry ($15) is 100% Glera and is extremely dry with noticeable pear and bready characters.  The wine finishes with refreshing acidity boosted by the increased effervescence. We used the non-typical Bormioli Rocco cocktail glasses and added a Peach and Raspberry cube from the Shimmer Peach and Berries cube trio. The cane sugar added roundness and softened the sparkling wine while providing subtle fruit flavors. Can't wait to use the Bormioli Rocco for more traditional cocktails and picking up more Riondo at either WholeFoods or Norms Beer & Wine. Cheers and Happy Mother's Day.

Grape Spotlight: ICP Côtes de Gascogne Tannat with Domaine de Malartic

The Côtes de Gascogne is an IGP title covering the Gers administrative department of South-West France. Grapes have been cultivated in the region at least since Roman times and today the IGP consists of 12,000ha of vineyards. [IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée), is a quality category of French wine, positioned between Vin de France and Appellation d'Origine Protegée (AOP). The category superseded Vin de Pays in 2009. ]  The region consists of several AOC appellations (Armagnac, Madiran, and St-Mont), but the IGP designation allows winemakers to expand beyond limited geographic boundaries and more rigid wine-making requirements.

The "terroir" across Côtes de Gascogne changes moving east to west with the eastern region more maritime from proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and changing to a continental climate moving inland. According to wine-searcher,com, "In the east, summers are warmer and drier, and the clay-limestone soils retain water more effectively. Nearer the coast, loose, sandy soils with good drainage and high rainfall characterize the vineyards".  

White wine grapes dominate the region with over 90% of planting, but for the lesser-grown red wine grapes, Tannat is a major player.  The grape is thought to have originated in the rugged Basque regions between France and Spain which may explain its inherently tough vines, thick leaves, and resistance to diseases. In general, Tannat grapes contain high natural acidity and aggressive tannins leading to wines that age nicely. Tannat wines are also characterized by deep color and high alcohol.

The Domaine de Malartic is a family estate belonging to the Périssé family and located in Gers. They produce a range of Côtes de Gascogne, Floc de Gascogne and Bas-Armagnac wines. For five generations the Périssé family has grown grapes on 68ha of vines on slopes rising off the Adour River in Bas-Armagnac. This land consists of plateaus featuring sand, reddish clay, silt, and pebbles with the vineyards extending over hillsides below the Pyrenees. They grow Colombard, Gros Manseng, Ugniblanc, Tannat, Cabernets, and Merlot with the Tannat and Merlot key ingredients to two of the wines I received in a recent Hopwine virtual fair. 

Domaine de Malartic Côtes de Gascogne Orignes Rouge 2019 Tannat
This 100% Tannat is very complex and intriguing with a white pepper aroma, rustic chewy cherries, and noticeable tannins.

Domaine de Malartic Côtes de Gascogne Mosaic Rouge 2020 Merlot / Tannat
This blend is rounder with a chalky and herbaceous character with earthy dark fruit and finishing with woody tannins. 

Old Dominick Distillery & the Memphis Toddy

Not far from Beale Strait resides the first post-prohibition distillery in Memphis: Old Dominick Distillery. The distillery is the culmination of a very successful business started by Italian immigrant Domenico Canale. He arrived in Memphis in 1859 and started by running a fruit cart along the streets of Memphis. In 1866, "Canale formally establishes food wholesaler D. Canale & Co., and sets up operations in a warehouse at 8 Madison St. near Front. Among its offering is a whiskey, sold in ceramic jars and bottles, that Canale named Old Dominick". In 1880, "Canale developed the Dominick Toddy, a bourbon-based cordial with fruity overtones that must have spoken to the former fruit stand operator. It was described as the 'one of which we are the proudest' and its label featured the now iconic Dominicker Rooster." Throughout the 1900s, the business expanded under the leadership of Canale's children and grandchildren. In 1999, after 125 years of continuous operation, D. Canale Food Services is sold. 

In 2013, "following the surprise discovery of an unopened bottle of Old Dominick Toddy from the late 1800s, Chris and Alex Canale decide to reinstate the storied spirit brand started by their great-great-grandfather, Domenico.  They hire Master Distiller Alex Castle and in 2017 the distillery produces its first whiskey -- not far from the location of the original D. Canale & Co. warehouse. 

The distillery provides guided and self-guided tours through several artifacts with the guided tours leading through the barrel room and distillery. We took the self-guided tour and then walked up to the tasting bar where we enjoyed a flight plus a couple new twists to classic cocktails. Overall, the spirits are solid, and with multiple bars and a rooftop seating area - a frequent destination if we lived in Memphis. 

Honeybell Citrus Vodka (80 proof)
The Honeybell Orange is a hybrid of sweet tangerine and bitter grapefruit and Master Distiller Alex Castle feels this is one of her most "inventive and unique" spirits. This is a very smooth vodka, where both aspects of the fruit are truly noticeable.  

Formula No. 10 Gin (95 proof)
An interesting gin that starts with juniper and finishes with licorice. Complex flavors from the eight botanicals: juniper, coriander, angelica root, licorice root, grapefruit peel, chamomile, orris root, and ginger root. 

Huling Station Straight Bourbon (100 proof)
Huling Station was the closest railway station to the D. Canale & Co. warehouse where, in 1866, Domenico Canale’s spirits were shipped throughout the United States.  This is made from a high rye recipe and bottled at 100 proof -- "reminiscent of the spirits offered by Domenico Canale".  There's definitely a bite to this bourbon with spicy notes mixed with the corn and caramel.  

Huling Station Straight Wheat Whiskey (90 proof)
This whiskey is comprised of  83 percent wheat, producing a lighter, more delicate profile.  A very pleasant sipper with stronger grassy characters.  

Memphis Toddy (60 proof)
This is the reverse-engineered spirit that led to the founding of the distillery. Its base is a high-rye bourbon which is then augmented with proprietary and a "carefully-curated array of natural ingredients".  It has an interesting profile, starts with the rye bite but then finishes with a sweet, baking spice finish. 

Louisiana's Three Roll Estate: Rhum Agicole From Cane to Glass

Louisana is the second most abundent producer of sugar cane in the United States, following Florida with over 1,500 thousand short tons of harvested sugar. Baton Rouge's Three Roll Estate provides a small portion of this figure through their sugar cane estate. They are also a certified Farm to Table producer through their Cane to Glass process where the sugar cane is grown on a single estate in the delta and crushed at their mill as it passes through three steel rolls. The juice is then fermented and distilled in the French Caribbean rhum agricole style which provides a more grassy and intense rum. 

Their signature product is the Three Roll Estate Rhum Agricole Premium Rum which is produced once a year at harvest where the sugar cane juice is fermented 90 minutes after pressing. This rum is the truest expression of the Cane to Glass process and is the rum we purchased after our visit. It's extremely smooth, yet intense with plenty of vegetable and grassy notes and even a bit herbaceous. They also bottle a Three Roll Rhum Agricole White Rum from the juice fermented during the three-month harvest. 

Another product worth considering is the Three Roll Rhum Agricole Brazilian-Style Rum produced by fermenting the cane juice with yeast sourced from Brazil. A Cachaça throughout. The one rum I didn't care for was the Three Roll Rhum Agricole Dark Rum where the cane juice is processed into sugar and the molasses byproduct is fermented and aged in French oak vats, before being finished in American oak. I think the oak overwhelms the white rum and loses the fresh grassy and honey notes. 

It appears our future may entail more visits to Louisana so we looking forward to returning and spending more time in the tasting room and perhaps a visit during harvest. Cheers and thanks to theCompass Craft Beverage Finder. 

Nashville's Corsair Artisan Distillery

Corsair Artisan Distillery was founded in Bowling Green KY in 2008 but moved to Nashville in 2010 to become the first craft distillery in the Athens of the South since prohibition. They now have two locations in Nashville, their headquarters distillery and one in the former home of Yazoo Brewery located in the Marathon Motorworks Village. The village once housed the Marathon Motor Works (1910-1914) which was the first factory to totally manufacture automobiles in the southern United States.  It now houses a thriving community of artisans along with a fabulous walking tour of the former plant.  And for more history, the Corsair Artisan Marathon location is home to a circa 1920 240-gallon pot still which survived the move from Bowling Green as well as prohibition. 

Corsair is extremely innovative and appears to be leading the industry in a couple styles as described below. The Marathon Brewstillery also contains a brewpub pouring many local beers and ciders as well as cocktails based on their spirits. Way more affordable and intriguing than heading to Broadway.

Corsair American Gin (92 proof, $29.99)
This gin is produced in small batches using a vapor basket system where the botanicals are extracted instead of cooked as in the more traditional boiling/maceration process.  The result is a very citrus-forward gin popular in the American style with noticeable cucumbers and mint. The juniper is apparent but sometimes I feel the pendulum is swinging too far from the London Dry style. 

Corsair Barreled Gin (88 proof, $39.99)
The distillery ages their American Gin in used spiced rum barrels with the intention of imparting "vanilla, fall spice notes, and wood to the finished product". Instead, I think the wood-induced characters overwhelm the gin and impart too much wood into the final product. 

Corsair Spiced Rum (85 proof, $29.99)
The rum is produced from molasses and then aged in small  (15 and 30 gallons) new American Oak casks.  This is a solid rum with plenty of vanilla and baking spices that carry throughout.

Corsair Dark Rye (85 proof, $41.99)
The grain bill consists of 61% Malted rye, 4% malted chocolate rye, and 35% malted barley. The use of malted barley over corn makes this both a rye whiskey and a malt whiskey but also tones down the spicy rye notes and adds smoother mocha sweetness.

Corsair Triple Smoke Small Batch American Malt Whiskey (85 proof, $49.99)
The distillery uses three individually smoked malts (cherrywood from Wisconsin, beechwood from Germany, and peat from Scotland) to craft this malt whiskey. This is such a unique spirit -- both peated and smoked with the smoke holding court. Since I purchased this bottle, I've had more opportunities to sample it than the other spirits and each time the profile changes slightly. Sometimes mesquite dominates, other times butterscotch and peat. Truly worth visiting just to pick up this smoked gem.

A Southern Brewery Tour

For spring break we are heading on a multi-state tour of colleges and for my benefit, breweries and maybe distilleries. These types of trips make managing theCompass Craft Beverage Finder worthwhile as we can search for craft beverage establishments in each city we pass through.  I'll be updating this post as we visit more breweries. Cheers.

Great Oak Brewing - Southern Craft BBQ (Bristol, Virginia)
Apparently, we missed a great spot during last year's Bristol Rhythm & Roots as Great Oak Brewery and Southern Craft BBQ opened at the tail end of State Street. The BBQ was excellent - try the burnt ends tacos or half chicken. The two beers I tried were as good. The Tennessee Uncommon Ale has a mash bill that includes corn and was more flavorful than expected. The Twin Eddies Coffee Porter was a surprisingly good pairing with the burnt ends. Can't wait to return for the 2022 music festival.

Balter Beerworks (Knoxville, Tennessee)
Another brewery with a tremendous kitchen (blackened Mahi wrap), Balter is located in downtown Knoxville and provides a full bar in addition to a dozen craft beers. I went with a flight that included the Good Neighbor Kolsch, Maypop American Pale Ale, Firebelly IPA, and Bear Blend Coffee Oatmeal Porter.  These are solid beers, interestingly the Maypop was more intense than the Firebelly. The Good Neighbor was well made - refreshing with a little breadiness - and worthy of a crowler to the hotel room.

Back Forty at Sloss Docks (Birmingham, Alabama)
On Friday nights it looks like half of Birmingham descends to the Sloss Docls to hang out at Back Forty Beer Company. Full kitchen, plenty of seating and outdoor space, wine, and lots of beer choices. I tried two Pale Ales side by side, the Naked Pig Pale Ale and the Barrel Smash American Pale Ale. Both are full of flavor with the Naked Pig a bit easier on the palate. We also had a glass or two of the Bama Mosa Brut Ale which is a tasty light ale fermented using champaign yeast and augmented with orange juice. A fan favorite for one in our party. Finally, we brought home a 4-pk of the Slur Bight Fruited Sour. Fermented with oranges and aged in vanilla it is soft with definite tropical flavors.

Southern Prohibition Brewery (Hattiesburg, MS)
Unfortunately, our timing was not optimal for stopping in Hattiesburg as the brewery's tasting room is closed for renovations. However, I was able to try two of their beers at the Crescent City Grill while getting our first exposure to cajun cooking. The Suzy B is an unfiltered Blonde Ale packing plenty of flavors and a lasting finish. The Devil's Harvest is a Breakfast IPA weighing in at a mere 4.9% and carrying some oats in the mash bill. No need for high alcohol with this much flavor. Excellent.

Tin Roof Brewing Co (Baton Rouge, Louisana)
This brewery is the closest to LSU and I was able to try their Paloma Gose which lead me to visit the next day.  Their Voodoo juicy pale ale is their most popular but I was more overwhelmed by their experimental beers like the King Cake Cream Ale brewed with malt, corn, rice, and two locally commissioned king cakes! The Parade Ground Porter was brewed with plenty of coffee beans and dozens of donuts. Each is delicious but don't overlook the Doubtfire Banana Coconut Cream Berliner Weisse. This is far beyond the traditional sea salt and coriander. Loads of flavors. 

Parish Brewing Company (Broussard, Louisana)
Broussard is located about five miles south of Lafayette so it's a quick trip to Parish Brewing from the Hub City. It's also apparent that berliner weisse and coffee stouts and porters are popular beer styles in the south as Parish provides several. The Greetings from Holly Beach is a tiki-styled Berliner Weisse with pineapple, mango, passionfruit, coconut cream, and toasted coconut. Fantastic. The Sips Pinot Noir Black Currant is dry, but juicy with dark fruit and a lasting finish. The Parliament of Owls is a powerful Espresso Blend Imperial Stout with graham crackers, chocolate, and toasted marshmallow. At 13% this packs a wallop of flavors and alcohol. On the lighter side, the Parish Pilsner and Canebrake Wheat ale are solid. 

Natchez Brewing Co (Natchez, Mississippi)
This brewery is located in perhaps the oldest city in Mississippi with scenic views of the mighty river and plenty of historic homes and museums. The city also doesn't have an open container law so a nice way to spend an afternoon is to grab a crowler from the brewery and sit along the river at Natchez Under the Hill.  I purchased two of these for destinations later in the trip. The first was the German Pilsner Frölich which is spot on stylistically with a refreshing, bready profile. The second was the Southern Grace Berliner Weisse keeping the traditional profile with very creamy sea salt and a slightly sour finish. 

Ghost River Brewing Co. (Memphis Tennessee)
The brewery has two locations in Memphis, their original location on South Main and on historic Beale Street.  This last location was within a short walk from our hotel so we had a quick visit before the Redbirds baseball game. This location also has a large backyard patio where a band was setting up that couldn't get started before we finished our flight. This was a random flight generated by a pourer and started with a delightful Grindhouse Cream Ale.  The flight also included the Dom’s Barrel-Aged Red Ale which spent six months in Old Dominick whiskey barrels. Definitely taste the whiskey.  It ended with the Rocket 88 Stout which is a solid roasted malty beer. Finally, the brewery's flagship beer, the Ghost River Gold, is available throughout the city - like at the Lookout Restaurant at the Bass Pro Shop Pyramid. 

TailGate Brewery (Nashville, Tennessee)
This brewery has three Nashville tasting rooms with one in Music Row, just up the street from the original Tin Roof.  Witness the long tasting board showing over 40 beers, seltzers, and ciders. Over a Lent pizza and Calabrese fries, I drank a flight of four well-made beers which consisted of the Solar Eclipse Hazy Pale Ale, Cranberry Gose, Tennessee Lager, and Peanut Butter Milk Stout. I appreciate the opportunity to taste locally inspired beers like the Tennessee Common Lager which includes some corn in the mash bill. I also had a pour of their house-made hard cider - delicious apple flavors with tartness and acidity. With this expansive beer menu, I hope to return before we leave Nashville to taste so many styles in my wheelhouse: Lager Projekt: German Pilsner; SHNACK Sour Series; Barrel Project: Coffee, Coconut, Hazelnut; Mixed Culture Stout; Trees: Hop in Smoke, and so much more. 

Miscellaneous Beers
Great Raft Brewing Reasonably Corrupt Dark Lager - Shreveport, Lousiana
Flying Tiger Brewery Burma Blonde Lager - Monroe, Lousiana
Yellowhammer Brewery Sunliner Fruited Sour - Huntsville, Alabama

Wiseacre Brewery Tiny Bomb American Pilsner - Memphis, Tennessee
Crosstown Brewing Siren Blonde Ale - Memphis, Tennessee
Little Harpeth Chicken Scratch Pilsner - Nashville, Tennessee

Yazoo Brewing Hopry Hazy IPA - Madison, Tennessee
New Heights Brewing Coffee & Cream - Nashville, Tennessee

Nashville Brewing Company Nashville Lager - Nashville, Tennessee