Grape Spotlight: Virginia Gamay Through the EWE25

Gamay (Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc) is most famous for producing the fresh, red wines of Beaujolais. It is also grown in other parts of France (Maconnais, Loire region, and Savoie), in western Switzerland, and in the new world: Oregon, Washington, Canada, and more recently: the Commonwealth of Virginia.  Gamay grown in Virginia was a topic at the 2025 Eastern Winery Exposition through a session titled Gamay’s Versatility and Potential with Robert Muse (Muse Vineyards) & Christine Vrooman (Ankida Ridge Vineyards).

There is documented evidence that Gamay Noir has been planted in the Burgundy region since the 14th century. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, banned the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy because he felt it was inferior to Pinot Noir. Perhaps because DNA analysis shows that Gamay is an offspring of Pinot Noir and a white grape called Gouais Blanc. It was easier to grow than Pinot Noir and delivered larger yields, so local farmers preferred Gamay over Pinot Noir -- especially in Beaujolais.

                              Carbonic Maceration

Grapes are whole-bunch fermented in a sealed container which has been flushed with carbon dioxide, creating an anaerobic (oxygen-free) environment. Fermentation begins inside the still-whole berries, creating aromatic flavor compounds (phenols) not found in conventional fermentations. These compounds are responsible for the 'banana' and 'bubblegum' aromas associated with carbonically macerated wines. The technique produces wines which are fruitier and less tannic than those made from crushed grapes. Genuine, pure carbonic maceration is very hard to achieve, because the grapes at the bottom of the container typically split under the weight of the fruit above.

In the Shenandoah Valley, Robert Muse first planted Gamay in 2007 (most likely the first in Virginia)  and it has accepted the cold temperatures. The vines are planted at 750-1,000 feet elevation in soil types ranging from light loam to sandstone and alluvial deposits. Muse Vineyards uses carbonic maceration and after the internal fermentation the grapes are crushed and traditional fermentation occurs in stainless steel. The wine rests in these tanks for a year before bottling.  After bottling young, the wine is light bodied with low tannins; lively, fruity, and fresh aromatics. We have travelled to Woodstock on many occasions to enjoy this wine. The Gold medal it was recently awarded at the  2024 Virginia Governor's Cup is well deserved.

 

Moving south into the still higher Blue Ridge Mountains at Ankida Ridge Vineyards, the Vroomans decided to plant a test plot of Gamay in 2017 after several very successful years growing Pinot Noir.  They planted the 300 vines at 1,800 feet elevation in granite soils and learned that it out produces its Pinot harvest basically 3-1. This on top of dropping 1/3 of the Gamay berries. The Gamay also has a higher pulp to skin ratio leading to less tannin and color.  In 2023 they started vinifying the Gamay using partial carbonic maceration and the wine is only available by keg in the Ankida Ridge tasting room. However, we sipped a sample at the EWE session and it is light and lively, fresh fruit and abundant acidity. 

#winestudio: The Independent Spirit | Wines of the USA

Protocol Wine Studio's weekly #winestudio twitter chat session went Americana this July by featuring several wines produced in the other 46 as selected by LeMetro Wine Underground: The Independent Spirit | Wines of the USA. These are all family operations, with interesting stories to tell.  I was familiar with all the wineries selected, except for Vermont's La Garagista, a producer of several french hybrid wines including the 2013 “Coup de Foudre” Pétillant Naturel. Michelle Williams, over at Rockin Red Blog has a nice recap on that wine.

La Garagista was the focus of week 1, and the second week featured Wisconsin's Wollersheim Winery and McPherson Cellars from Texas. I included the Wollersheim 2013 Domaine du Sac in my The United Grapes of America series. In short, this is a very pleasing juicy blackberry-blueberry flavored wine with cedar-spice notes and solid acids. McPherson is also included in the UGA series with their tasty Tre Colore - a southern Rhone blend of Mourvedre, Carignan, and Viognier. During our #winestudio session, we focused on their 2013 Les Copains Texas Dry Rosé ($15), another similar Rhone blend of Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Viognier. One interesting note, because of frost damage that year, the Viognier was sourced from owner and winemaker Kim McPherson's brother's vineyard in Temecula, CA. This is a dry rosé, with berry and tropic fruit aromas leading to soft cherry flavors, finishing with clean acidity. And at this price, a bargain.

The final week featured the Creekside Cellars 2011 'Franc' Colorado Cabernet Franc ($50) and Ankida Ridge Vineyards 2012 Pinot Noir ($42).  These both are good examples showing how both Colorado and Virginia are producing excellent wine. I just featured Creekside in the UGA, but in short there's also a nice lift and creaminess to the wine which finishes with smooth tannins and fresh acids. The Ankida 2012 Pinot Noir is a fine example how a warm climate Pinot can maintain acids and structure.  The 1800 foot elevation and rocky, well drained soils is a perfect location for the grape - as the summer days are cooler than the surrounding area. The wine has a dusty character with black cherry flavors a hint of spice, and a juicy mouthfeel. A little Burgundy in the Commonwealth.

Tomorrow, #winestudio continues a tour of lesser known wine regions by focusing on the Hudson Valley. Hope to see you online. Cheers.