BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy: The Story of Norton

In 1873, the international wine community was stunned when a Missouri produced Norton wine produced by Poeschel & Scherer was declared the “Best Red of All Nations” at an International competition in Vienna, Austria. Then another medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1873. The popularity of Norton exploded - worldwide. At the time many European vineyards were just recovering from Phylloxera, and because of Norton’s relative immunity to disease and pests, this grape was designated as a possible savior to their ravaged vineyards. 

During the 2025 BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy I presented "The Story of Norton", a seminar that described the history of America's Grape - starting with the 1873 Best Red of All Nations award in Vienna, Austria. During the presentation, I poured four Norton wines, two from Missouri and the other from Virginia.  After the presentation, attendees poured samples from a number available Norton wines that had been opened during the previous night's Norton Wine Dinner for industry professionals.

The attendees started with a glass of the 2022 Stone Hill Cross J Norton. The winemaker at Stone Hill Winery, Nathan Held, asked that I relay that he feels this is a great representation of what a young Norton wine should taste. I mentioned that inexperienced winemakers can produce a Norton that is astringent and too acidic, whereas this wine exhibited  a spicy nose with tart plums and black cherries with subtle earthiness and spice. 

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I discussed the preponderance of German settlers to the Midwest between 1827 and 1856 and how Hermann Missouri was created specifically for German immigrants.  And grape growing was a popular endeavor. By 1847 there were 28 vine growers in Hermann with one being Michael Poeschel started making wine using Catawba and Isabella - two Vitis labrusca grapes. Soon he partnered with another German, John Scherer, to form Poeschel & Scherer.

In the 1850s, under the leadership of George Hussmann, Norton was recommended and Hussmann distributed cuttings and by 1858 Princes Nursery (Flushing, New York) shipped the first documented instance of Norton vines to Hermann. Norton and Cynthiana were quickly adopted by Poeschel & Scherer. The winery was renamed Stone Hill Wine Co. Over time successful salesmen turned business partners William Herzog and George Stark helped grow the winery to become the second-largest winery in the country. Winning top honors in 8 World’s Expos between 1873 and 1915, the winery gained international prominence in the world of wine.   But there were stormy clouds on the horizon. 

The attendees then sampled the 2018 Stone Hill Winery Old Vine Reserve Norton. The grapes come from  a tiny 1/4 acre vineyard of Norton grapevines that were planted in 1863, during the Civil War. According to the winery, "once in a great while the shy bearing Ancient Vines produce enough grapes for a barrel or two of Norton Wine".  The wine was aged two years in French oak and shows more roundness plus hints of chocolate and more mature dark fruit. But still plenty of lively acidity. 

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With World War I came anti-German sentiment, which hurt the traditionally German alcohol industry in Missouri, slowing growth. With the end of the war, the temperance movement started to dominate politics and eventually succeeded with Prohibition being ratified in 1919 and enacted in 1920. George Stark’s sons were forced to shutter the winery and order the vineyards to be destroyed. In 1923, the cellars were transformed into a mushroom farm which would continue under Bill and Mary Harrison until wine could once again find a home in their halls. 

During and after prohibition there was a strong home winemaking tradition in Missouri with Jim & Betty Held as active participants.  In 1965, they moved into the remnants of the old Stone Hill Wine Co. at the urging of the Harrisons in order to resuscitate the winery. He started with Catawba and Concord  but searched throughout the region to find existing Norton vines. He eventually found and purchased a plot of old civil war era - vines at a property owned by another home winemaker Rauch. This is the grapes used in the 2018 Stone Hill Winery Old Vine Reserve Norton.

The attendees then sampled the Bluemont Vineyard 2020 Norton Reserve. I wanted to show another younger Norton and stressed the noticeable difference with the Stone Hill Cross J Norton. It was livelier with more spices, bubbly sour cherries, and noticeable tannins. 

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Norton or Vitis Aestivalis is a native North American grape officially discovered in 1823 by Dr. Daniel Norborne Norton (1794-1842), a physician from Richmond. After his first wife died during childbirth he turned to cultivating new grapes (27 in total) in a small plot of land known as Magnolia Farm - northwest of Richmond.  Even though Jefferson was never successful in finding a wine grape suitable to the Virginia climate, he may have inspired Dr. Norton's new endeavor. There are saved correspondence between Dr. Norton and Jefferson's chief grape grower. But fortune is odd. The Norton grape was not created intentionally, but resulted as a chance of nature through open pollination. Initially it was thought to be a natural cross between Pinot Meunier and a now extinct hybrid known as Bland. What is known for sure is that the male parent, was a wild vine of Vitis aestivalis.

Shortly after his discovery, Norton was quickly adopted by many growers as a hearty grape able to yield quality fruit for wine making. Based on sale documents, Norton is one of the oldest native grape varieties commercially used to make wine in North America. In fact, it was sold and used to make wines since 1830 as an inexpensive alternative to importing well-known European vinifera grapes, vines, and wines. As it spread westward it was still popular in Virginia up into the late 19th century - but like Missouri died out during prohibition. 

The final wines that the participants sipped were the Horton Vineyards 1995 and 1999 Horton Norton - library wines intended to demonstrate the age ability of Norton wine. The grapes inherent acidity helps elevate the finish even as the wine passed almost three decades in the bottle. In addition the wines show jammy - yet velvety layers - of dark fruit and chocolate. 

Post prohibition, the Virginia wine industry was slow to materialize and one of the pioneers was Dennis Horton. A native of Missouri, he started an office supply business in the metro D.C. region all the while planting a few vines at a small home vineyard in Madison County, Virginia in 1983.  In the late 1980s, Horton and a business partner acquired 55 acres for the beginning of Horton Vineyards. Rhone grape varieties were his favorite options but he was familiar with the Norton grape from growing up in Hermann and knowing the grape's Virginia roots.  He thus contacted Jon Held and obtained a shipment of Norton vines from Stone Hill Winery -- reintroducing the Norton grape to the Commonwealth with their inaugural vintage in 1992. The grape loves the Virginia climate.  And the Horton library wines represent wines made from these Stone Hill cuttings. Today there are over 20 wineries producing a Norton wine in Virginia and the have joined together to form the Norton Network in order to promote the grape. Thanks to Dennis Horton this is possible along with the world's largest grower of Norton - Chrysalis Vineyards.

Wine, Beer, & Cider Near Great Country Farms - Bluemont Virginia

Have you ever been dragged to a pumpkin patch or fall festival?  Pretty often right?  Well check out Great Country Farms in Bluemont Virginia. You may have heard about the farm's relationship to Bluemont Vineyard and have already seen the spectacular view from that mountain top winery.  Yet there is more. A furlong down the rode lies the newly opened Dirt Farm Brewing with similar views and plenty of craft beer. They need the volume based on the crowd I joined. In downtown Bluemont, Wild Hare Cider offers unique hard ciders from apples grown throughout the Winchester area. And across Route 7, Twin Oaks Tavern Winery has a cozy setting.

Last weekend I dropped the family off at the farm and ventured straight to Wild Hare. The small tasting room was filled, but turnover moved quickly; Blu and I were at the tasting bar in short time. Yes, dogs are allowed inside. There were six ciders available for tasting and I chose a flight of 3 for $12. I started with the Hatch ($15.50), their classic dry cider that is light and clean with a slightly tart and acidic finish. The Hopscotch ($16) is a dry cider fermented with ale yeast and then dry hopped with Citra hops. You can image the aroma that greeted me. This is a very nice cider. Love the style. The final cider was the Windrush ($16), another dry cider - this time aged with wood staves. The treatment is minimalist -yes it's there but not overwhelming.  And I brought home a bottle of their Coppertail ($21.75), an heirloom cider aged in used Kentucky bourbon barrels. Looking forward to sharing this one and will update this post at that time. In the meantime, this cider house is highly recommenced.

We then drove closer to the farm and up the steep mountain road to the farm brewery -  Dirt Farm Brewing.  Parking was somewhat difficult as I had to navigate through three parking assistants but somehow was directed back to a spot next to the brewery. The grounds are spacious, which are needed, as I suspect there were close to 500 people mingling on the grounds. I parked Blu at a picnic bench close to the entrance and stood in line to grab a pint. Not flights today, just straight ordering.  I chose the Beeracrat Election Golden Ale, their lowest abv offering at 4.3%.  It was light but surprisingly flavorful with a slightly sweet tail. Refreshing in the unseasonably hot day.  My companions at the communal table were content with the Boots Off IPA - a rather low abv option at 6.5%. I lingered longer than expected because their musical playlist and mountain views were outstanding. Did I mention that an eagle soared over the valley. Yea. Great company too.

After collecting the family we headed straight out the farm exit and up to Bluemont Vineyard.  As expected, the winery was crowded but we found a table quickly and order our favorite from this facility, their Viognier The Goat ($30) and Tasters Platter. I also noticed that they now offer wine flights, three reds or whites and a five glass Farmhand flight. Great idea, don't waste time sampling, just grab the flight and enjoy the live music and view. In hindsight I should have ordered the white flight of Albarino, Petit Manseng, and Vidal Blanc. Next time. And remember, theCompass Winery, Brewery, Distillery Locator Mobile App can guide to all these locations. Cheers.

Rosé Wines

Lately we have been able to taste four very good dry rosé wines from Maryland and Virginia that are welcome alternatives to the sweet blush style wines. Maryland's Deep Creek Cellars offers a dry Rosé made from Cabernet Franc that is fruity and has a nice acidic finish. On the other side of the state, Solomons Island Winery offers a White (Rosé) Merlot. This Maryland Governors Cup Competition-Gold Medal wine is made in the style of the dry Rosés from Provence. This mat be my favorite. And in Virginia Chrysalis Vineyards and Bluemont Vineyards produce similar style rosé made from several grapes. The Chrysalis Mariposa is a Spanish style Clarete made from seven European varieties and a little Norton for color. The Bluemont Rosé - "The Donkey" is a blend of five varieties - Tannat, Tinta Cao, Nebbiolo, Viognier, and also a splash of Norton for color. Its nice to see dry rosé wines back vogue.

Bluemont Vineyard

Today we visited the newest winery to open in Virginia, Bluemont Vineyard. Located in Loudoun County the winery is located between Berryville and Leesburg off Route 7. For those who are familiar with Great Country Farms, the winery is directly across from the farm, half way up the slopes of the Blue Ridge Mountains. This is no coincidence, since Bluemont Vineyard is owned and operated by members of the same family. Besides visiting the Farm, the drive up the mountain is worth the amazing views of the Loudoun Valley below. This may be the best views provided by any Northern Virginia winery. Let's not forget the wines.

Currently the winery sources its grapes from other local vineyards, including Chrysalis Vineyards award winning Viognier and Norton. They hope to start producing wines from the Bluemont Vineyard in a couple years. There were four offerings today - two whites, a rosé styled wine, and a dry red: Norton - "The Pig". This is a solid wine for a first time Norton. The grapes are from the 2005 and 2006 vintages and aged in oak. The fruity nose is followed by a fruit forward flavor and slightly spicy finish. The beauty is the Bluemont was able to remove the acidity from the wine and showcase the grape itself. On the other side, their 2006 Viognier - "The Goat" is the winery's dry white wine. It has a nice citrus flavor with a mild acidic finish. Another great alternative to your standard Chardonnay. The 2006 Vidal Blanc - "The Cow" is semi-dry even at 3% residual sugar. It has a citrus nose and flavor like the Viognier, but more acidity at the finish. This wine should find a balance between dry wine drinkers and those who prefer a sweeter wine. Finally, our favorite was the "wine stew", their 2006 Rosé- "The Donkey". This wine is a blend of five varieties - Tannat, Tinta Cao, Nebbiolo, Viognier, and a splash of Norton for color. It is a full, dry wine at 1/2 percent sugar, and has a balanced structure. This is just a good wine to sip slowly on their deck - enjoying the amazing views of Loudoun County.