Grape Spotlight: Castilla y León D.O. Bierzo Mencia

Mencia is to D.O. Bierzo what the Prieto Picudo and Albarin grapes are to D.O. León. A subregion within Castilla y León primarily dedicated to an historic and signature grape. 

Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.

In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the  maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.

Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.

D.O. Bierzo lies in the far northwest of Castilla y Leon close to the region's borders with Galicia.  The viticultural area consists of two parts: Bierzo Alto (high Bierzo), a mineral-rich and mountainous terrain where terraced vineyards are sewn into the slopes, and Bierzo Bajo (low Bierzo), a wide and verdant plain. Bierzo's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean has a profound effect on its overall climate, with average temperatures during the growing season much cooler than in Castilla y Leon's more inland areas, making it rather mild. Nevertheless, the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range in the north provides the vineyards with adequate shelter. This ensures that the Mencia grapes achieve optimum ripeness. 

Bierzo's soil is different from that found in other parts of Castilla y Leon in that it contains a predominance of slate and granite. This favors the Mencia vines and helps them to produce wines with a distinct mineral character. The wines tend to be lighter in terms of alcohol and more refreshing than those from other parts of Castilla y León.

Mencia is a thick-skinned, violet-blue grape that was once thought to be related to Cabernet Franc. Modern DNA testing has disproved this theory, however, but has uncovered that it is genetically identical to Portugal's Jaen." It's its origin Bierzo or Dão?

"Mencia wines tend to exhibit earthy, vegetal characters with berry nuances and stony minerality. They have a bright complexion with a vivid maroon color, relatively fresh acidity and tannins. The fruit flavors can range from red to black fruits, often with a herbal dimension of mint or thyme. The variety can be challenging in the vineyard, and has a tendency towards low yields, making it a challenging prospect for growers and winemakers. It is susceptible to botrytis and mildew, and can lose its acidity quickly if not harvested promptly. Mencia's high alcohol and moderate acidity provide something of a juggling act at harvest and in the winery. Oak is used sparingly, as it can overwhelm Mencia's rather delicate flavor profile."

At the Castilla y León Roadshow, I sampled several Mencia wines from two producers who focus almost exclusively on this grape. Elva Garcia Amigo was onsite representing her winery -- Aníbal de Otero (Daughter of Anibal) -- named in honor of her father.  Aníbal and his father tended their Mencia vines which  are now more than 100 years old. The process is overseen by oenologist José Hidalgo where the grapes are hand harvested in small batches, fermented in stainless steel and aged at various lengths in French oak.  In the vineyard they practice sustainable practices where aromatic plants, wild oregano, thyme, and chamomile grow wild as cover crops. 

Anibal de Otero Mencía, D.O. Bierzo 2022 
Made exclusively with Mencía grapes from bush-ripened vines with an average age of over 90 years. Located near the village of Otero de Toral, on a steep, high altitude of 500-600 meters with clay, sand, slate, and pebbles. The grapes are naturally fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged three months in used 225-liter French oak barrels, then 8-10 months in stainless steel tanks before bottling, and bottle ageing for at least 6 months.  This is a fresh and pleasant Mencia with abundant red fruit and juicy acidity. 

Anibal de Otero Villa, D.O. Bierzo 2018
The grapes are from the same 90+ year old vines as the Anibal de Otero Mencía but the best grapes are separated and used for the Villa. Similar fermentation process, but longer aging with six months in used 225-liter French oak barrels and at least 18 months in the bottle. More velvety texture surrounds the red fruit and balanced tannins leading to bright acids. 

Anibal de Otero Los Fornos, D.O. Bierzo 2016
The grapes are harvested from very small plots in the exclusive Los Fornos area. The vineyard is south-facing, on a slope overlooking the valley where the Burbia and Cúa rivers meet the Sil where the soils are dominated by limestone and slate.  The wine follows a similar fermentation process but the aging is extensive. It involves 18 months in new and used 225-liter French oak barrels then bottle aged for at least 36 months. This a complex and wonderful wine - darker fruit, more approachable tannins, and tasty earthiness. 

Cantariña Vinos de Familia is another small winery started by five siblings cultivating 13 Ha of 100 year old family vineyards divided among three different sites in their Villafranca del Bierzo hometown.  The first is Viña de Los Pinos, one of the most iconic and photographed vineyards in Bierzo. It sits by the Camino de la Virgen, a narrow dirt path transited by thousands of Pilgrims each year on their way to Santiago de Compostela. The second and older site is Valdeobispo and the third and newest site is Cotelo, where parts had been abandoned for 20 years. Valdeobispo was first planted in 1910 and considered one of the grand crús in Bierzo. The soils are clay and sand with limestone and rolling stones. 

Cantariña Villafranca, D.O. Bierzo 2022
This wine is practically 100% Mencia with trace amounts of Palomino, Doña Blanca and Godello in a field blend from the  Viña de Los Pinos and Valdeobispo sites. The grapes are naturally fermented in 5000 liter oak vats with partial use of whole cluster.  The wine is then aged in oak vats and used 225 and 500 liter French oak barrels. Fresh red fruit characterizes this wine with subtle spice and earthiness. 

Cantariña Valdeobispo, D.O. Bierzo 2021
This is 100% Mencia from the the iconic and organic Valdeobispo site. The grapes are fermented in an 50 HL oak vat, whole clustered, the aged 12 months in used 225 and 500 liter French oak casks. This wine has an astonishing vibrant mouthfeel, lively tannins and acidity distributing velvety dark fruit most notably blackberries.

Grape Spotlight: Albarin Blanco from D.O. León & I.G.P. Castilla y León

At a recent Castilla y León Roadshow event, I saw Albarin Blanco on the tasting sheet for Leyenda Del Páramo and thought "Nice, Albariño has a synonym in Castilla y León". Was I wrong. In reality, Albarin Blanco is a rare light-skinned grape variety found only in northwestern Spain --  Castilla y León, Asturias and even Galicia. Wine-searcher.com provides descriptors where "the aroma profile of Albarín Blanco wines falls somewhere between that of its cousin Albariño and that of Gewürztraminer. Tasting notes often include references to ripe limes, lychee, mint, fig and orange." 

Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.

In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the  maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.

Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.

León (known until 2019 as Tierra de León) is a comparatively new D.O .wine region in northwestern Spain. The D.O. title covers over 3,000 square kilometers of gently undulating, fertile plateau just south of the eponymous city of León, below the Asturian mountains that line the northern border of the Castilla y León province."

At the Castilla y León Roadshow, I was able to sample one D.O. León Albarin wine from Bodegas Belote and one I.G.P. Castilla y León from Leyenda Del Páramo.

Bodegas Belote's goal is to restore rural heritage and preserve cultural memory which includes restoring winemaking in underground cellars with minimal intervention.  According to the winery, "Caves are an inherent part of traditional architecture in Roales de Campos. Wineries dug in the slopes with a small slope where for more than 500 years the wines were made in a stable environment and at temperature constant throughout the year". The Belote D.O. León 2020 Albarin was crafted from vines planted between 2002 and 2006 in clay loam soil at 900 meters (2,953 ft.) above sea level. The wine was naturally fermented in clay vats and then rested on its lees for three-four months in the same vats. The wine had the expected weightiness with lovely floral and spice notes interspersed with deep creamy citrus. 

Leyenda del Páramo was launched in 2010 to focus specifically on Prieto Picudo and a future Grape Spotlight topic, Albarin. One of the founding partners, Pedro González Mittelbrunn, is a defender of the Prieto Picudo within the appellation of origin. The Paramo region is located in southern León and a pertinent feature is the cave system and underground cellars mentioned above. "Inside these caves, with the low temperatures of the subsoil, an ideal micro-climate is formed for the production of the famous Prieto Picudo wines."  Their vineyards are located in a landscape called "El Páramo", located in the northern section of the Duero river basin and, like Belote, at 900 meters. They are flat, poor soils with a large amount of boulders, old fluvial terraces of the Esla and Bernesga rivers.  

As I mentioned above, the El Aprendiz I.G.P. Castilla y León Blanco 2024 (100% Albarin Blanco) was the first wine I tasted and assumed to be Albariño.   And even its profile reminded me of the Galician grape with strong floral and tropical notes and abundant acidity. More herbaceous than saline. The grapes are sourced from organic vineyards in the southern area of the province of León. The twenty+ year old vines grow in poor sandy loam texture soils and experience hot and dry summers. Cool nights help retain that acidity. A fantastic wine. 

Grape Spotlight: Prieto Picudo from D.O. León & I.G.P. Castilla y León

Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.

In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the  maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.

Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.

León (known until 2019 as Tierra de León) is a comparatively new D.O .wine region in northwestern Spain. The D.O. title covers over 3,000 square kilometers of gently undulating, fertile plateau just south of the eponymous city of León, below the Asturian mountains that line the northern border of the Castilla y León province."

Prieto Picudo Cluster

Red wines rule in Castilla y León and the Tempranillo grape variety is unquestionably the king.  Yet Prieto Picudo is a red grape variety primarily grown in D.O. León, In fact, this grape accounts for nearly 70 percent of all plantings in the León, which represents the transition between the hot, continent vineyards of Castile and the cool, maritime climates of north and western Spain. As such Prieto Picudo vines are grown in both modern, trellised format, as well as the low, sprawling bush vines "en vase" as found with Tempranillo in Toro and Tierra del Vino de Zamora around 100km (60 miles) to the south.

The grape is known for its tight clusters and oval-shaped berries that taper at the end, giving it its name, which translates to "dark beaked cluster". This grape produces deeply colored red wines with a clean acidity and high levels of sugar and tannin, giving the wines a unique character and taste.  Prieto Picudo wines often exhibit flavors of redcurrant, blackberry, and licorice, and may have mineral notes, as well as vanilla and toast where oak has been used in the winemaking process.

At a recent Castilla y León Roadshow event, I was able to sample two D.O. León Prieto Picudo wines from Bodegas Belote and three I.G.P. Castilla y León from Leyenda Del Páramo. 

Bodegas Belote's goal is to restore rural heritage and preserve cultural memory which includes restoring winemaking in underground cellars with minimal intervention.  According to the winery, "Caves are an inherent part of traditional architecture in Roales de Campos. Wineries dug in the slopes with a small slope where for more than 500 years the wines were made in a stable environment and at temperature constant throughout the year". The Belote Timba D.O. León 2020 Red (100% Prieto Picudo) was crafted from vines planted between 2002 and 2006 in clay loam soil at 900 meters (2,953 ft.) above sea level. They used natural fermentation in concrete tanks and then blend wine aging three months in French oak barrels (500 liters) with wine aging three months in amphora. The Belote Prieto Picudo D.O. León 2019 Red is derived from the same vineyard and starts with natural fermentation but is aged 16 months in French oak barrels (500 liters). Not unexpectedly, this wine has a greater mouthfeel and more tannic structure, but both have delicious blackberry fruit and an almost cream soda character. 

Leyenda del Páramo was launched in 2010 to focus specifically on Prieto Picudo and a future Grape Spotlight topic, Albarin. One of the founding partners, Pedro González Mittelbrunn, is a defender of the Prieto Picudo within the appellation of origin. The Paramo region is located in southern León and a pertinent feature is the cave system and underground cellars mentioned above. "Inside these caves, with the low temperatures of the subsoil, an ideal micro-climate is formed for the production of the famous Prieto Picudo wines."  Their vineyards are located in a landscape called "El Páramo", located in the northern section of the Duero river basin and, like Belote, at 900 meters. They are flat, poor soils with a large amount of boulders, old fluvial terraces of the Esla and Bernesga rivers.  

At the Roadshow, I started with the Flor del Páramo I.G.P. Castilla y León 2023 Red -- 100% Prieto Picudo and a pure expression of the fruit. No oak, just juicy fruit. This is their best international seller and I can see why. Easy drinking and maybe serve slightly chilled. Second, was the El Aprendiz I.G.P. Castilla y León 2021 Red -- 100% Prieto Picudo aged for a minimum of 6 months in fourth and fifth use American and French oak barrels.  Plenty of approachable tannins and abundant acidity with dark cherries throughout. I concluded with the El Médico I.G.P. Castilla y León 2016 Red is made from 100% Prieto Picudo grapes from vineyards over 60 years old. It is aged for a minimum of nine months in French (75%) and American (25%) oak barrels. Almost a decade old and as fresh as a more recent vintage with lively acidity and velvety fruit. 

Cheers.

Celebrating Generations of Vineyard Workers with Matsu Tinta de Toro

Castilla y León is the largest region of Spain, as well the largest region of all the European Union, and hosts the wine regions of Ribera and Rueda in addition to the more recently designated Toro DO. Toro lies to the west of Rueda in the province of Zamora and and is bisected by the Duero River flowing towards Portugal. Despite gaining Denomination of Origin (DO) status as late as 1987, wine making traditions predate the Romans as Greek settlers taught the local Celtic tribes how to vinify grapes. During the Middle Ages, Toro gained considerable wealth from the wine trade which expanded during the phylloxera epidemic as the local vines were protected by the sandy soil. Thus even today there are 150 year old vines still producing fruit. Traditionally Tinta de Toro refers to red wine from Toro and equates to a clone of the Tempranillo grape that excels in the DO's continental climate. Like other Spanish DOs there are several classifications of Tinta de Toro:

Roble: a young red aged between three and six months (can contain some Garnacha)
Crianza: must age for at least two years with at least six months in oak barrel
Reserva: must age for at least three years with one year in oak barrel
Gran Reserva: must age for at least five years with two years in oak barrel

El Picaro

In the Toro DO there are currently 8,000 ha of land planted with vines with a portion sourced to Vintae, the La Rioja wine company launched by José Miguel Arambarri and sons José Miguel and Ricardo. The produce wine from 15 DOs and in 2006 ventured into Toro. Three years later they introduced the Matsu brand. In Japanese the brand name translates to "wait" and is a tribute to the workers who tend the vines over multiple generations. As proof, each wine label includes a photo of a viticulturist spanning these generations. I recently received samples of three of these 100% Tinta de Toro wines sourced from extremely old vines farmed using biodynamic techniques.

El Recio

Matsu El Picaro 2016 ($13.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a selection of 50 to 70 year old vines. The juice is fermented and rests three months on lees in concrete vats and undergoes malolatic fermentation in French oak barrels. This Roble wine is fresh yet full bodied with a velvety texture, dark juicy fruit, and lasting tannins. A great tasting wine. 

El Viejo

Matsu El Recio 2015 ($21.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a selection of 90 to 100 year old vines. After fermentation in concrete vats the wine was aged 14 months in French oak. This Crianza is intense that is both chalky and chewy; dusty and leathery. The dark fruit and chocolate lingers with the tannins. Ups their game here.

Matsu El Viejo 2015 ($46.99) - consists of grapes harvested from a vines over 100 years old. It follows a similar fermentation and aging regime as the El Racio but extended to 16 months. This Reserva is even more intense exploding in the palate with a combination of fruit, spice, and toasted wood. Chewy tannins integrate with the juicy acids to keep the party going. Oh yes, if only in my budget.