Grape Spotlight: Islas Canarias DOP Listán Blanco and the Bodega El Lomo 4 Lías

Courtesy of vineyards.com

The Canary Islands archipelago is an interesting region for growing grapes as it is the most tropical of Europe's wine regions. Lying off the west coast of Morocco, the tropical climate is generally hot and humid but there are numerous micro-climates and topographical features that make wine production possible. The altitude of the stone-terrace vineyards is vital and for the majority, it ranges from 1,600-3,300 feet above sea level, providing a string diurnal temperature change.  This ensures that freshness and acidity are maintained in the grapes.

Volcanic soils are also beneficial to grape growing. The soil imparts mineral and subtle, mineral notes to the otherwise largely aromatic wines.  And because of its isolation from the European mainland, phylloxera never reached the archipelago and imported rootstock was never needed. Thus Canarian wines are made from old and ungrafted vines. 

Wine is made on seven of the eight main islands, encompassing 11 Denominaciones de Origen Protegida (DOPs), the overall Islas Canarias DOP, five individual island DOPs, and five located on the largest island - Tenerife: Abona, Tacoronte-Acentejo, Valle de Guimar, Valle de la Orotava and Ycoden-Daute-Isora.  In order, these encompass the southern coast, northeast coast, southeast coast, northwest, and western part of Tenerife.

Courtesy of Bodega El Lomo

Along with Malvasia, Listán Blanco is the most popular white wine grape. The name is a synonym for the popular Jerez sherry grape: Palomino. In Andalucia, the variety has a rather neutral flavor profile, with low acidity and potential alcohol, making it a natural for fortification in Sherry's particular winemaking style.  However, in the volcanic soils and high elevation of the Islas Canarias DOP, Listán Blanco achieves much more acidity from the diurnal temperatures and is usually harvested prematurely to give it a touch of freshness. In this instance, it shows light and subtle herbal (fennel), peach and dried fruit aromas which seem to enhance the mineral and saline character of the volcanic terroir.

Bodega El Lomo is located in Tenerife with multiple estates located in distinct microclimates on the island.  The estate vineyard ("Fray Luis")  is located at 1400 feet above the sea in a volcanic fault with the vines cultivated in terraces. "This farm, according to historical records, has been a vineyard for more than 300 years".  Their highest vineyard is "Chío" located at 3600 feet near the Chinyero volcano in the south of the island. And most of their vineyards are located in the northeast of Tenerife averaging 1600 feet. 

The 4 Lías Blanco Seco 2022 is a truly unique wine.  The Listán Blanco base is fermented and aged on its lees as well as the lees from three other wines produced that vintage year at the winery. The other lees derive from Malvasía, Albillo Criollo, and Forastera and come from a sheltered vineyard on the northeast side of Tenerife. The Listán Blanco comes from vineyards located over 2800 feet with the vines planted in deep volcanic soil. 

This is a fantastic complex wine with plenty of ripe stone fruit on the nose with layers of minerality and aggressive acidity. At Jaleo this wine was served with Papas Arrugas (miniature potatoes) and Croquetas de pollo (chicken fritters). Expect $15 or Euros if you can find it in your market. 

Grape Spotlight: DO Pla de Bages Picapoll from Bodegas Abadal

The first documented reference on the existence of the Picapoll grape in Bages is found in an inventory of the monastery at Sant Benet de Bages in the year 1564. From 1889 on, there is more precise evidence of the existence of this grape and in documents dating back to 1889 and 1890, it is mentioned as being the most widely-grown variety in the region of Bages. After 1930, in Bages and the rest of the wine-growing regions of Catalonia, there was a decline in the area of land dedicated to vineyards which resulted in the residual growth of Picapoll in Bages – a region which is ideally suited to this variety, thanks to the grape’s great adaptability. -- Bodegas Abadal 

 

The DO Pla de Bages designation is one of ten in Catalunya and lies 30 miles northwest of Barcelona. This region enjoys a mostly Mediterranean climate but Continental influences move in as the hot summers transition to cold winters.   The Llobregat and Cardener rivers weave southwards through the region and vineyards sit within the rivers' valleys, surrounded by impressive mountain peaks and ranges, including the tourist destination of Montserrat Monastery.  During the summer months the grapes develop slowly because of the very high diurnal temperature variation.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Vineyard locations, and the corresponding grape-growing conditions, are defined by two distinct types of topography. The central basin, at an altitude of 200m (600ft), has predominantly clay-based soil and is warmer.  Alt Bages ('Upper Bages'), which lies at 500m (1,600ft) above sea level, is the cooler part and has a healthy amount of lime in its soil. This helps to retain moisture during the hotter months. The lower reaches, simply referred to as Pla des Bages, sits at around 200m (600ft) above sea level. The soils are alluvial, made up of mostly clay and sand."

Pla des Bages acquired DO status in 1995, in part from the effort of Valentí Roqueta, who chaired the association from 1995 to 2015. A dozen years previously, he had founded Bodegas Abadal based on eight centuries of the Roqueta family's vine growing tradition. The first documents that illustrate this tradition date from the year 1199.  The estate focuses on native grape varieties that his ancestors may have grown for they provide the "maximum expression in their native land".

Their "vineyards are distributed on terraces at different levels. They are nourished by a terrain of clay and limestone, and they are surrounded by woodland which leaves its mark in our wines. The result is expressiveness and complexity. The vineyards are immersed in a unique microclimate that is a mix of Mediterranean and continental, with a marked temperature oscillation between day and night."

The winery may not call their vineyard practices Regenerative Farming, but they sure resemble it. Abadal facilitates biodiversity and maintains a high proportion of the forest around their vineyards that protect and nurture a wide variety of animal and plant species. As a result, pests are controlled by this  auxiliary fauna. They also maintain a living soil by sustaining an active microbiology, minimizing compaction, improving its structure and therefore facilitating the work of the roots. Finally, they are very proud of their efforts to  maintain the historical environment by restoring and conserving dry stone huts and vats that date back to the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. 

The very first Abadal Picapoll was released to the market in 1996 and this was also the first 100% Picapoll released from the DO Pla de Bages. A synonym for Piquepoul or Picpoul, the grape may have migrated to Catalunya from the Rhone Valley and Languedoc regions during the earlier Roqueta family history.  The Picapoll grape grows in small compact clusters, with tiny spherical berries that very often show “picades” or marks on the grape skin, which is where the name originated. I sampled the 2021 vintage of the Abadal Picapoll Pla des Bages DO at last month's Spain's Great Match and was surprised by its weight -- assisted by three months aging on lees.  Expect a floral and herbaceous aroma and a complex citrus profile. Fresh acidity provided a lively finish 

Spain's Great Match - Masterclass: Around Spain in 8 Glasses

Last week I attended Spain's Great Match held at the Del Mar Restaurant located in The District Wharf. The day long event started with a Masterclass: Around Spain in 8 Glasses led by Master Sommelier Evan Goldstein & Advanced Sommelier Lindsey Fern.  Why is Spanish viticulture important? Because Spain has the largest vineyard area of all the major vine-growing countries in the world and accounts for 13% of the World's vineyards. As a corollary, Spain is the third largest producer of wine globally and accounts for the 8th largest exporter to the U.S. by volume and 4th by value. Moreover, Spain is also home to over 400 individual grape varieties grown in over 70 D.O.s (Denominación de Origen) and two DOCas (Denominación de Origen Calificada) in Rioja and Priorat. The seminar focused on eight appellations through the eyes of one winery within each region. 

D.O. Cava
The Denominación de Origen was established in 1986 with 95% coming from within Penedès. The D.O. encompasses close to 94k acres of vineyard and over 6,100 growers. In 2022 the designation was more finely tuned with the creation of the Cava de Guarda (minimum of 9-months tirage) and Cava de Guarda Superior (minimum of 18-months tirage) designations. The leading grape varieties are Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.  Our sparkling wine sample was the Parés Balta Blanca Cusiné Organic Cava 2014 ($52) which showcases the age-ability of Cava  particularly after 80 months en tirage (secondary fermentation). The Xarel-lo heavy grapes were organically grown in central Penedès by the 3rd generation Cusiné family. 

D.O. Rías Baixas
This designation was created in 1988 and represents the cool and green northwest corner of Spain known as Galacia. It consists of five sub-regions with the Val do Salnés the historical focal point -- but each region is affected by the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. Albariño is the dominant grape and there are rising trends for more barrel aging and sparkling programs. We have covered D.O. Rías Baixas very often in the past so please read these posts for more in depth coverage.  The wine presented was an old friend, the Pazo Senorañs Colección Albariño 2020 ($25). The winery is located in the Val do Salnés and this wine shows the depth that Albariño is capable of showing particularly balanced with the racy minerality. 

D.O. Rueda
Established in 1989, Rueda is the oldest D.O. in Castilla y Leon and is located on high plains rising around 2,500 feet. The vines receive 2600 hours of sunshine annually and a large thermal diurnal change helping to maintain acidity and lengthen the growing season. Verdejo is the primarily grape and there are significant plantings of Sauvignon Blanc where a small percentage is often blended with Verdejo. The grape was considered a safety net in case Verdejo didn't flourish. Marques de Riscal pioneered this blend but we sampled the magnificent Marques de Riscal Organic Verdejo 2022 ($12.99) consisting solely of Verdejo. Lively tropical fruit. 

D.O. Jerez
This region was the second designation in Spain (1933) and is the southernmost wine region in Western Europe. It is known for sherry production and the white Albarizo (chalk) soils. This soil is poor in organic composition and highly porous but well suited for the Palomino Fino, Pedro Ximénez, and Moscatel grapes. In general sherry is produced when the grape must, called "yema", is fermented and fortified to 15.5% then enters a solera system where it is aged for various years. During this aging period, the wine undergoes biological aging under a layer of yeast called "flor". The Gonzales Byass Tio Pepe Fino NV Sherry ($22) is produced using this method  and the unique pungent aromas from the flor blend nicely with the almond notes characteristic of the Palomino grape.  Our visit to the winery is available here.

DOCa Rioja
This was the first Spanish region to receive the D.O. status in 1925 and the first to receive the DOCa designation in 1991.  The DOCa (Qualified Denomination of Origin in English) is the highest category in Spanish wine law, reserved for regions with above-average prices along with stringent quality controls. Rioja is the home of Tempranillo, the birthplace of the Spanish language, and consists of three zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental. This is a hot Mediterranean climate influenced by high altitudes ranging from 1150 to 2100 feet. Besides Tempranillo, Viura, Malvasia Garnacha Blanca & Tinta, and Graciano are major players. We sampled the Finca Allende Rioja Tempranillo 2017 ($35) - a DOCa wine grown in Rioja Alta and naturally fermented and aged 14 months in Bordelais 225 liter barrels. Savory.

D.O. Jumilla
This designation was created back in 1966 and encompasses 61,755 acres located on a very high plateau (1,000 to 3,000 feet)) in southeastern Spain. The climate is hot and dry leading to abundant organic viticulture where the vines receive over 3,000 hours of sunshine a year. The soils are chalky and allows the vines to be planted ungrafted. Monastrell (Mourvèdre) is the signature grape and accounts for 77% of plantings. The grape was represented by the Juan Gil Silver Organic Monastrell 2021 ($18) - a certified organic wine made from 40+ year old vines. This is a delicious wine that I will be seeking for further sipping. 

DOCa Priorat
This designation was created in 2006 out of older designations and is completely encircled within DO Montsant. This is a high altitude region in Spain's northeast corner of Catalunya with a combination of Mediterranean and Continental influences. Soils are quartz and slate and known as llicorella. These conditions have lead to the "intense, full-bodied red wines; the classic Priorat wine is made from old-vine Garnacha and Samso/Cariñena, and has concentrated aromas of licorice, tar and brandied cherries". The Gratavinum 2pr Organic Priorat 2021 ($50) is a four grape blend dominated by Garnacha and then Carignan and is named after the Gratalops village in with the winery is located. There are twelve wine based villages within Priorat.  There is surprising softness to the biodynamic farmed wine with a pleasant lingering finish.  

D.O. Ribera del Duero
Since its inception of a D.O. in 1982, this region has grown from 24 wineries to over 300 today but still one third of the vines are 45+ years old and 10% are 80+ years old. These vines consist of  Viura, Malvasia, Garnacha Blanca & Tinto, Tempranillo, and Graciano. All excel in the string Continental climate featuring 40 degrees of diurnal temperature shifts -- partly due to the high altitudes (2,360 to 3,600 feet).  The Pago de Anguix Costalara 2019 ($40)  is made from 100% Tempranillo grown at 2,626 feet in elevation. Initial intensity leads to  lush tannins. 

Grape Spotlight: DO Costers del Segre Danaus Red Wine

Costers del Segre is Catalonia's most inland wine region and generally speaking, this region is harsh. It's semi-arid, with a climate of extremes. Although its seven fragmented districts do represent a varied mix of soil and climatic conditions. -- wine-searcher.com

DO Costers del Segre is a Denominación de Origen (DO) wine region located in Catalonia, on the northeastern coast of Spain. The name means 'Banks of the Segre' – a river which originates in the Pyrenees mountain ranges and meets the Ebro River just south of the city of Lleida.  The DO was established in 1988 and is a collection of subregions clustered along the Segre river valley. It has a dry, semi-arid Continental climate featuring limestone and clay spoils. The DO is comprised of seven sub-zones, four of which are considered "mountain viticulture".  It also experiences a high diurnal temperature variation (70 degrees F) producing aromatic and structured wines.

The subregions, from north to south, are Pallars Jussa, Artesa de Segre, Segria, Raimat, Valls del Riucorb, Les Garrigues and Urgell. As a result of these scattered subregions, this DO boasts one of the most versatile wine portfolios in Spain. The cooler vineyards produce grapes for Cava (Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo), while the drier areas are suitable for growing red grapes, especially Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Trepat, Monastrell, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Varietal white wines are also produced based on Chardonnay, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc.

One wine we recently received is made from the three most predominate grapes within the drier regions. The Danaus Organic Red Wine 2022 ($13) is a blend of 45% Tempranillo, 45% Garnacha, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and made exclusively for Origins Organic Imports. This is a company founded by Labid Ameri and Anne Bousquet initially as the U.S. importing arm for Domaine Bousquet -- but has expanded to include organic wine producers worldwide

The wine is made by Bodegas Costers del Sió a twenty year old operation where the first vines were handplanted in 1998 and the first wines released in 2005. Their estate is named Finca de Flix and is poor in organic matter but rich in loam and mud. It is located in the Artesa de Segre subregion at an altitude of 1,000 feet (310 meters), where the estate is influenced by the Mediterranean with continental influences.

Danaus refers to Danaus Plexippus (i.e., “sleepy transformation” in ancient Greek) -- the scientific name for the monarch butterfly (named for the monarch King William III of England). Each of the three grape varieties were harvested separately and after fermentation, bended and aged for four months in 300 liter French oak barrels. This is a fantastic wine for a number of reasons, starting with the retail price. Not many wines under $15 have this balance between fruit flavors and oak influences and an uninterrupted flow from the nose to the approachable finish. Layers of red berries and light smokey tannins. 

Distributed in AR, AZ, CA, CT, DC, DE, FL, KS, LA, MD, ME, MI, NJ, NY, OR, VT, WA

Grape Spotlight: Catalonia Cariñena (Samsó)

Carignan (Cariñena in Spain) is a black-skinned wine grape variety, most likely native to Aragon. The variety is found in wines along the Mediterranean coast, particularly in northeastern Spain and in France's Languedoc-Roussillon region. It is used most commonly for blending with many of the region's other key varieties – most famously Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. In Spain the best Cariñena wines are found in the acclaimed Priorat region and in Catalonia it is often labeled as Samsó. Often found blended with the more plush Garnacha, Cariñena makes up just under a quarter of plantings (of red wine varieties) in the area.

Carignan prefers warm, dry climates when the grape can express high tannins, acid and color. This makes it an excellent addition to red wine blends that have plenty of aroma and flavor, but lack body and depth of color. Carignan is only rarely made as a varietal wine, but the best examples can show characteristics of dark and black fruits, pepper, licorice, and spicy and savory accents.

Carignan is usually grown as bush vines, many of which are very old and require hand-harvesting as the vines' stems are too tough for machines. It is a late-ripening variety that is known to produce high yields if not properly cropped. This was once considered an attractive attribute of the grape but, as this can make it difficult to achieve good flavor concentration, it also led to it falling out of favor. (wine-searcher.com)

For a broader view of Catalonia Wines please read Catalan Wines USA Master Class -- Catalunya's Grapes, Designations, and Wine-making History.  During this tasting there were three expressions of 100% Cariñena poured all representing a different Catalonia appellation. 

Cellar Masroig is a century old winery located in Priorat County in the DO Montsant. This is a mountainous region known for their red wines and the owners of Cellar Masroig asserts that Cariñena is the foundation of their wines. Their Cellar Masroig Sola Fred 2022 ($15) is 100% Carignan and aged six months in stainless steel showing a bright fruit, very fruit forward, with a vibrant mouthfeel and refreshing acidity.  

Molí Parellada was founded in 1987 in the town of Sant Sadurni d'Anoia (near Barcelona) as El Xamfra -- specializing in cava production. In 2016, they opened a second winery in the town of Torrelavit in the DO Penedes. Since the new winery was built within an old paper mill, the new cellar was named Molí Parellada.  Second generation Francisco Domínguez is now the winermaker and CEO and has envisioned the large expansion of production in both cava and still wines. The Molí Parellada Alabrent 2022 ($36) - is one of these still wines, made from 100% Samsó which is interestingly aged six months in a locust tree barrel. The wine has a chewy structured mouthfeel full of slightly spicy sour cherries and other red fruit which carries through the long finish. Imported by 

In 1985, Tomàs Cusiné Barber started making wine at the family-owned Castell del Remei winery, started the Cérvoles winery in 1997, and the Tomàs Cusiné winery in 2003.  All three within the borders of the DO Costers Del Segre. This is a dry, semi-arid Continental climate featuring limestone and clay spoils and Catalonia's northernmost DO. The 30 hectares of vineyards he manages are organically or biodynamically farmed. These vines are planted in high elevations and result in the slower ripening of grapes, thicker skins, optimal acidity, and vibrant colors. This is the situation regarding the Finca Barqueres Carignan 2018 ($53)  -- 100% Cariñena harvested from a 1.5 hectare plot of old vine Cariñena. After fermentation, the wine is aged twelve months in French oak barriques. The wine is delicious, layers of stewed plums and tobacco, some spice, and an approachable finish. Excellent. Imported by Valkyrie Selections.

Catalan Wines USA Master Class -- D.O. Cava

There was plenty of sparkling wine on display during the Catalan Wines USA Master Class & Wine Tasting last month.  For an overview of the region and Master Class, please see Catalan Wines USA Master Class -- Catalunya's Grapes, Designations, and Wine-making History. Here, we will focus on D.O. Cava and the many expressions poured at the event.

D.O. Cava encompasses multiple areas within Catalonia but is almost 95% within Penedès. It was established in 1991 and highlights the traditional home to this sparkling wine, although today Aragon, Navarra, Rioja, Pais Vasco, Valencia and Extremadura have specific Cava demarcated areas.  The traditional grape varieties used in Cava were Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir now also being used. "Macabeo makes up around half of a typical Cava blend – not because of its flavor (it is quite bland), but because it represents a viticultural insurance policy. Macabeo vines bud relatively late in the spring, ensuring that their flowers and grapes are safe from early frosts. The interesting, slightly earthy flavors that distinguish Cava from most Champagnes are generally attributed to Xarel-lo grapes".  -- wine-searcher.com

Finca Ca n'Estella is a small, third generation operated, and family owned winery located northwest of Barcelona and based out of an 1800 winery and farmhouse. The estate is protected from the north winds by the Montserrat mountains and its proximity to the Mediterranean sea provides a temperate climate.  They poured the Cava Rabetllat i Vidal Brut Nature ($20) which is composed of 60% Chardonnay, 20% Macabeo, and 20% Xarel-lo. Winemaker Miquel Medall allowed this non-vintage Cava to mature two years in the bottle. The bready - yeasty aroma leads to tight effervescence due to the fine bubbles and a delicious dried fruit profile. 

Canals & Munné is another small winery located just outside of Barcelona that was founded in 1915 by Josep Canals Capellades, great-grandfather of the current oenologist Òscar Canals.  The winery's name arises from the union of Josep's son, Josep Mª Canals Casanovas and Dolors Torres Munné -  the parents of current manager Montserrat Canals Torres. They operate two wineries, the original 1915 facility dedicated to weekend wine tourism, and a newer facility located between the vineyards.  They poured a trio of sparkling wine starting with the Insuperable Brut ($16). This is a fresh and textured blend of Macabeu 40%, Xarel·lo 30% & Parellada 30% aged 25 months with a floral nose and a yeasty dried nuts profile. The Dionysus Brut Nature  ($18) is a blend of 30% Chardonnay, 60% Macabeo, and 10% Xarel-lo aged 22 months with another floral nose and a lengthy dry profile. Finally, the Lola Rose Pinot Noir – Brut ($25) is 100% Pinot Noir aged 20 months and has a delicious concentration of red fruits balanced with delicate and persistent bubbles. 

Castell d'Age poured a single Cava in the Anne Marie Brut Nature Reserva ($20). This is a non-vintage blend of 40% Xarel·lo, 40% Macabeu, & 20% Parellada that is aged a minimum of two years. The fruit from this delicious sparkling wine are grown in slate and clay-limestone soils from three estates located in the D.O. Penedès and situated on the southern slope of the Montserrat mountains. The winery is the result of three generations of woman, Aurèlia Figueras, daughter Anne Marie Comtesse who pioneered the introduction of organic farming, and granddaughter Olivia Junyent.

Covides is a cooperative that was founded in 1963 and is comprised of 600 grape growers across the Penedès region. These estates amount to over 2,000 hectares of vines spread out over 50 municipalities. The cooperative operates three winery facilities distributed evenly through Penedès to ameliorate the distances, means of transport, and transit time for the member growers. Since 2013, most of the vineyards are organically farmed and these vineyards cover the four major sub-terriors: Coastal Vineyards, Massif Vineyards (high active lime content ), Vineyards of the Plain, and High altitude vineyards. The Covides Vineyards Elocuente Brut ($12) is an excellent entry level sparkling wine, aged 13 months, with tight persistent bubbles providing a bready and fruity profile. The Covides Vineyards Elocuente Rosé ($13) is 100% Trepat -- an indigenous grape that is known to make fresh, berry-flavored sparkling wine. Exactly.  Duc de Foix is the Covides premium brand and the Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2017 ($50) is a stately blend of mostly Xarel·lo with lesser amounts of Macabeu and Parellada that is aged a minimum of 30 months in the bottle. There's abundant texture of toasted nuts with candied fruit and a long effervescent finish. 

One of my favorite sparkling wines was the Panot Gaudi Reserva Brut ($19) from Ferrer Wines. This is a blend of 40% Xarel·lo, 20% Macabeu, and 15% Chardonnay aged at least 18 months. It's intoxicating and not from the 11.5% alcohol; complex, tight bubbles, and lasting fruit and toasted bread.  This is probably what one would expect from Pedro Ferrer Noguer and one of the oldest wineries in the D.O. Cava -- Cavas Hill founded in 1887.

The final Cava wines, and apologies to any that I missed, were the premium trio from Agusti Torello Mata. This winery was born in Penedès in 1955 by the winery's namesake and today produces over 500,000 bottles of Cava each year. They source from 150 organic vineyards in the Valls d'Anoia-Foix where the grapes are hand harvested from at least 30-year-old vines. Today the winery is operated by his children -- Àlex, who is the winemaker, technical and viticulture director, and Gemma, who is the lawyer and administrator of the company. Their Rosat Trepart 2021 ($29) is 100% Trepat from 30 year old organic vines from the Obach Estate in Mediona, located 800m high with clay and slate soils. The wine is aged 19 months in the bottle and is dry with a charming red fruit profile with lasting effervescence. The Barrica 2018 ($50) is 100% Macabeu that was vinified six months in French oak and then aged four years in the bottle. It provides plenty of  a floral and fruity aroma, yeasty toasted notes, with a textured and creamy body, and lasting finish. The Kripta Brut Nature Gran Reserva 2016 ($130) is their flagship cuvee bottled in a distinct, amphora-shaped bottle. It is a blend of 45%, Macabeu (from Vinya Vicari planted in 1962), 35% Parellada ()from Vinya Lola planted in 1969, and 20% Xarel·lo (from Vinya Mercader planted in 1974). Each bottle is hand-riddled and disgorged and spends 84 months on the lees. Yes, seven years. The wine starts with fine and persistent bubbles leading to a complex nature and a silky texture. Expect a very long finish. 

The Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 - Part 2

Our previous post The Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 - Part 1 provides an introduction into Rías Baixas pertaining to its history, wine regions, wine regulations and styles, as well as its signature grape - Albariño. And Grape Spotlight: Rías Baixas, Val Do Salnés, Attis Bodega y Viñedos Souson describes a new trend we discovered at the Roadshow -- the small, but rising production of Rías Baixas red wine. We will continue down that path and describe some of the interesting wines and trends highlighted at the event in terms of lees aging, blends, and sparkling Albariño.

Traditionally Albariño has been produced by fermenting the green skinned grape in stainless steel fermenters and then bottling quickly in order to encapsulate the high acidity,  salinity, and citrus flavors associated with the grape. In this style, expect noticeable aromas and minerality due to the granite soils and proximity to the ocean as well as notes of lemon, lime, grapefruit, and sometimes pear.  

This traditional style is evident in a wine from Bodegas Martín Códax -- a cooperative located in Val do Salnés and founded in 1985 by 270 member grape growers.  Since 2005 Katia Álvarez has managed the winemaking department that created the Martín Códax 2022 ($18.95) -- a classically styled Albariño that provides a crisp citrus minerality and bright acidity that carries through to a long, refreshing finish. On the more innovative side is the Burgans Albariño ($19.95) , a custom custom cuvée made for importer. European Cellars and reflects Celtic name for the hill on which the cooperative is located. The wine is aged on its lees, providing richness to the otherwise citrus and stone fruit profile.  Pressing even further, the Val de Burgáns ($60) is naturally fermented and aged for 7-8 months in French foudre providing a luscious wine that continues to show fresh acidity and minerality along with the stone and tropical fruit.

Staying within Val do Salnés, Paco & Lola is another winery that provides different expressions of Albariño. This is also a cooperative, founded in 2005, and today has over 400 members making it the largest cooperative in the DO Rías Baixas. Their portfolio ranges from the traditional Paco & Lola Albariño ($21) with its noticeable polka dots to the Paco & Lola Prime Albariño ($35) made from the free run must of a selection of grapes from the oldest vineyards and then aged on lees for 6 months. As expected, the texture and body increases while the fruit, acidity, and salinity remain constant. The Paco & Lola Vintage Albariño 2015 ($60) shows the ageability of these wines as this spent one year sur lees. We had heard in the Roadshow's Master Class about the quality of sparkling Albariño and this is expressed by the Lola P&L Sprkling Albariño 2017 ($55). It's bready, effervescent, minerally driven, and rather excellent.

Another sparkling Albariño came from Condado do Tea and Bodegas As Laxas, a family owned operation with a tradition of winemaking going back to 1862. It's 30-year-old vines are planted on granite terraces overlooking the Miño River which itself provides a little warmer environment for the grapes. That being said, the traditional Laxas Albariño 2022 ($19.99) has exuberant acidity lasting much longer than expected. Then there's the Sensum Laxas ($32.99), a sparkling Albariño with a mineral driven, bready and nutty wine with a full creamy mouthfeel and refreshing landing. A fantastic wine. 

Viña Caeira is another Condado do Tea winery founded by Carlos Moro. During the Roadshow, they poured a traditional Albariño in the Viña Caeira 2022 ($27.99) and a single vineyard sur lees Albariño in the CM Albariño 2022 ($36.99). The winery was founded just over 20 years ago and the 25 year-old vines are also planted on granite terraces (Caeiras) overlooking the Miño River. The first one is a delicious portrayal of Albariño -> aromatic, mineral driven, fresh acidity, and lasting fruit. The CM is structured with similar acidity and minerality. 

Interestingly, the wineries representing O Rosal featured mostly Albariño dominated blends or non-Albariño single varietal wines like the Adegas Valmiñor Davila L 2022 - 100% Loureiro. This is a light-skinned white grape that is most familiar in the Vinho Verde wines of Portugal's Minho region. They also poured several several blends featuring Albariño, Loureiro, and two other Galacian white grapes Treixadura and Caino Blanco. We have been fans of the Santiago Ruiz ($22) blend of for quite some time and this includes five Galacian varieties, the four already mentioned plus Godello. This is one of the oldest wineries in Rías Baixas, founded by Santiago Ruiz's grandfather in 1860 and reopended by Ruiz in 1984. Another long time favorite comes from Terras Gauda and their Terras Gauda O Rosal 2022 ($22.99) blend of Albariño, Caino Blanco, and Loureiro. A delicious wine. Finally, we sampled the Lagar de Cervera Pazo de Seoane Rosal 2021 ($22.99) a blend of Albariño, Loureiro, Treixadura, and Caino Blanco that provided more tropical fruit as well as white grapefruit. 

There's plenty of explore in Rías Baixas, not just traditional 100% Albariño wines, but white and red blends, sur lees wines, and sparkling Albariño.  Cheers.

Catalan Wines USA Master Class -- Catalunya's Grapes, Designations, and Wine-making History

Photo courtesy of Catalan Wines USA

Every so often Catalan Wines USA hosts Wine Tasting & Master Classes across the country and fortunately one landing in Washington D.C. last month. The Master Class was presented by Lucas Paya, former beverage director of Think Food Group by Jose Andres and the wine tasting featured a baker's dozen of producers from throughout the Catalunya DO appellation. *

This autonomous community is located "in the north-east of Spain. It stretches from the historic county of Montsia in the south to the border with France in the north with the Mediterranean Sea forming its eastern border...  The Catalunya DO appellation was Spain's first region-wide, cover-all DO title, created in 1999". Most of the wines within this region are covered by 12 DO designations, which includes an all-encompassing Catalonia DO for all the scattered vineyards not covered by the sub-regions and the Cava designation for the region's signature sparkling wine. 

Viticulture in Catalonia started from at least 400 B.C. through the Phoenicians and the Greeks and extended into the Roman period. It died out during the Moorish occupation and resurged after the Christian reconquest -- primarily through monasteries and convents. Some of the more famous are the Benedictine monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes, the Cistercian monasteries of Poblet and Santes Creus, and the Carthusian monastery of Escala Dei. The monks experimented with vine stock and crafting and improved winemaking techniques. This fostered cultural and social development and actually led to a strong export market which expanded further after the 1870s. This is when "José Raventós, founder of the Codorníu group, began producing sparkling wines around the town of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia in Penedes, employing the traditional method used for Champagne" --  the birth of Cava.  

Grape Varieties

Catalonia includes a wide range of grape varieties from the indigenous Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo to other Spanish varieties such as Tempranillo (known in Catalan as Ull de Llebre) and Garnacha to international varieties such as Chardonnay, Monastrell (Mourvedre), and red Bordeaux varieties. These grapes benefit from Catalonia's strong Mediterranean climate where the warm coastal areas experience moderate rainfall. Inland areas are more similar to Spain's arid central plateaus, although there are plenty of cooler zones among the foothills and on elevated sites where grapes for the region's signature Cava (Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo) are grown. 

Macabeo is synonymous to Rioja's Viura and its "wines can be fresh, floral and aromatic when harvested sufficiently early and aged in stainless steel, but weighty, honeyed and nutty when aged in oak and harvested slightly later...Macabeo is also quite resistant to oxidation, in no small part due to its high levels of antioxidant resveratrol monomers".

Parellada is found almost exclusively in Catalonia and is used almost exclusively in the classic Cava blend where it provides aromas of blossom and green apple to the wine – ideal complements to the honeyed, grapefruit notes of Macabeo and the earthy flavors of Xarel-lo.  Parellada grows best at higher altitudes, where the growing season is both cooler and longer than in lower-lying areas.

Xarel-lo is also practically exclusive to Catalonia where the light-skinned grape is one of the region's most widely planted varieties. Although there is nothing distinct about the grape in the vineyard, Xarel-lo is valued by winemakers for the acid structure it brings to wines.

Denominación de Origen

There are twelve wine appellations in Catalonia that include ten distinct geographic designations as well as DO Cava and DO Catalunya where the geographic boundaries for each cover multiple sub-designations. 

DO Alella
This designation was created in 1955 and the designation is the closest to Barcelona and encompasses two small areas northeast of the city. For this reason it is constantly threatened by urban developmental pressure. Because of its coastal location, Alella's climate is broadly Mediterranean, but the area's complex topography makes for considerable variation between vineyard sites. The soils are mainly granite and sandy alluvial. The majority of Alella wines are crisp, dry, floral-scented whites made from local grape varieties Xarel-lo (known here as Pansa Blanca), Garnacha Blanca and Viura, and also the French "international" varieties, particularly Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The red and rosé wines are based on Monastrell, Syrah, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo. 

DO Emporda
This designation was created in 1972 as  Empordà-Costa Brava and encompasses the extreme northeast of Catalonia bordering France's Roussillon region, and thus shares a similar winemaking heritage. The titled was shortened to Empordà in 2006. The Mediterranean climate and proximity to the sea and mountains provides the DO tagline, "Wines of the Wind" as the strong Tramontana wind can stress the grapes. The limestone rich soil attracts several grape varieties Carinena (Carignan), Garnacha, Macabeo, and Garnacha Blanca.

DO Costers del Segre
This is Catalonia's northernmost DO, established in 1988, and a collection of subregions clustered around along the Segre river valley. It has a dry, semi-arid Continental climate featuring limestone and clay spoils. The DO is comprised of seven sub-zones, four of which are considered "mountain viticulture".  It also experiences a high diurnal temperature variation (70 degrees F) producing aromatic and structured wines. The cooler vineyards produce grapes for Cava (Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo), while the drier areas are suitable for growing red grapes, especially Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Trepat, Monastrell, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Varietal white wines are also produced, based on Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.

DO Pla de Bages
This designation sits in the very middle of Catalonia, producing a range of wines from Macabeo, Parellada, Picpoul, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, and the native Sumoll. The climate is more Mediterranean than Continental, with another high diurnal temperature variation. The soils range from limestone in the higher elevations, to mostly clay to alluvial in the lower reaches.

DO Conca de Barbera
This is a very small region where the production centers on Cava and thus the Macabeo and Parellada grape varieties. It is located right at the heart of Catalan wine country and practically surrounded by other designations. Conca is Catalan for 'basin' and describes the DO's geography formed by the combined valleys of the Francolí and Anguera rivers, above which rise various low-lying mountain ranges. It has a Mediterranean climate with some Continental influences and predominately limestone soils. For red wines, Garnacha, Mazuelo (Carignan), Ull de Llebre (Tempranillo), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the most successful red wine grape varieties.

DO Tarragona
This region is immediately south of Conca de Barbera and received DO status back in 1947, making it one of Spain's older designations.  The terrain climbs gently from the Mediterranean sea towards the Serra de Montalt mountains in the north and east where elevations reach 1,310 feet. Here the soil is calcareous, stony and alluvial largely because of the Ebro River. Closer to the sea, the soils are calcareous, tending towards granite further inland. Garnacha and Carignan dominate the reds while Cava ((Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo) for whites.

DO Montsant
This designation, created in 2001, bisects DO Tarragona inland but retains a strong Mediterranean climate. Soils range from silty-loam, clay and granite, to sand and slate. This is another "mountain viticulture" area where elevations reach 2,300 feet. Even though the region is small, there is enough diversity for six sub-zones. Montsant has earned a reputation for its high-quality red wines, particularly those based on old Garnacha and Carinena (Carignan) vines. 

DOQ Priorat
This designation was created in 2006 out of older designations and is completely encircled within DO Montsant. It is one of only two DOCa - Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOQ) designations in Spain; the other being Rioja. The term Calificada translates as 'qualified' or 'guaranteed' and implies a guarantee of high wine quality. Like Montsant, this is a high altitude region with a combination of Mediterranean and Continental influences. Soils are quartz and slate and known as llicorella. These conditions have lead to the "intense, full-bodied red wines; the classic Priorat wine is made from old-vine Garnacha and Samso/Cariñena, and has concentrated aromas of licorice, tar and brandied cherries".

DO Terra Alta
This is the most southern designation bordering the inland section of Tarragona and has the highest altitude with the mountain peaks reaching 3,000 feet. The vineyards are located down in the foothills and valley floors. The climate is mostly Mediterranean with some Continental influences with long, hot summers and very cold winters. El Cierzo, a local dry wind which originates in the Ebro River valley to the west, plays a vital role in moderating temperatures during the growing season, as well as helping to prevent mildew diseases on the vines. The soils are clay and coastal limestone, with good drainage. Garnacha Blanca is the key white grape variety and not surprisingly Garnacha for red.

DO Penedès
This designation was created in 1960 and is the most important viticultural area in Catalonia in terms of both volume and the diversity of wine styles. The region starts at the coast south of Barcelona and extends inland where elevation reaches close to 3,000 feet. The Mediterranean climate provides warm summers, mild winters, and moderate rainfall for the calcareous, clay and limestone soils.  Red Penedès wines have traditionally been made from Garnacha, Carinena, Monastrell, Tempranillo, and lately Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The white wines are made from the varieties otherwise used for Cava: Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo, and more recently Chardonnay. 

DO Cava
This designation encompasses multiple areas within Catalonia but is almost 95% within Penedès. It was established in 1991 and highlights the traditional home to this sparkling wine, although today Aragon, Navarra, Rioja, Pais Vasco, Valencia and Extremadura have specific Cava demarcated areas.  The traditional grape varieties used in Cava were Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir now also being used. "Macabeo makes up around half of a typical Cava blend – not because of its flavor (it is quite bland), but because it represents a viticultural insurance policy. Macabeo vines bud relatively late in the spring, ensuring that their flowers and grapes are safe from early frosts. The interesting, slightly earthy flavors that distinguish Cava from most Champagnes are generally attributed to Xarel-lo grapes". 

* Source for this article: wine-searcher.com and Master Class Presentation

Grape Spotlight: Rías Baixas, Val Do Salnés, Attis Bodega y Viñedos Souson

Did you know that red wine is being produced in Rías Baixas?

Val Do Salnés is the oldest of the five sub-regions in Rías Baixas and contains 64% of the region's vineyards. It features the most coastline with the Atlantic Ocean and is thus the coolest and dampest of the sub-regions with an average temperature of 59 degrees F.  The soils here are granite-based and quite rocky. These factors give the wines of  Val do Salnés abundant acidity and noticeable salinity. Like all of the sub-regions in Rías Baixas (See The Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 - Part 1), the vast majority of the wines here are Albariño but Rías Baixas Tinto is a permitted class of wine that accounts for 1% of all production.  

One of these red grapes is Souson, which is synonymous to Vinhao (or Sousao) from just below the border in Portugal's Minho region and composing red Vinho Verde wines.  This is a dark-skinned grape variety indigenous to the western Iberian Peninsula. "It is used to make relatively light red-wine styles which are nonetheless deeply colored thanks to the grape skin's strong pigmentation. Its budding season is mid-late and its maturation cycle is long, so its location predominates in areas that are favorable for early ripening. It has high sensitivity to powdery mildew, medium to mildew and low to Botrytis". (wine-searcher)

Attis Bodega y Viñedos is situating in the center of Val do Salnés. Although dominate in Albariño, the winery also produces a Souson. All the vines grow on traditional pergolas and thus the grapes are somewhat protected from the humidity and moisture. The grapes must be tediously hand harvested and then are naturally fermented in open 500 liter barrels. The wine is then aged 12 months in new French oak barrels and fined with eggs and sea water. 

During The Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 - Part 1, I sampled the Attis Souson 2016 ($40), where the intense color matches the fruit forward character. There's lively acidity and noticeable saline that extends long into each sip. 

The Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 - Part 1

Rías Baixas, Galician for "Lower Estuaries"

Recently I attended one stop on the Rías Baixas Roadshow 2023 that featured a masterclass presented by Advanced Sommelier, Erik Segelbaum and Master of Wine, Caroline Hermann. It also included a showroom tasting of the wines of Rías Baixas hosted by visiting wineries and representatives from the region. Whereas Albariño was the focus we learned several exciting new trends coming from Galicia. But first, a primer.

During the height of Greek civilization between 800-400 B.C., the Celts, who we now associate with Scotland and Ireland, ruled over most of Central and Western Europe. In fact, the Alps mountain range is named from the Celtic Alpes, which itself is derived from a pre-Indo-European base alb (hill). Over time the Celts were pushed to the extremes of Europe - including Galacia where the Romans referred to them as Celtiberians - regardless whether they were ethnic Celts or a mix with Iberian tribes. One of these tribes was known as the Gallaeci and they left behind cultural remnants like language, pagan festivals and bagpipes that endure today. The first winemakers were Roman, who conquered the Celts and firmly established viticulture and global trading. Winemaking practices in the region evolved further in the 12th Century with the arrival of Cistercian monks from France.

Spanish wine regions are usually noted for their dry desert-like conditions and bold red wines. The major exception to this rule is the Galicia region of north-western Spain, located along the Atlantic coastline and bordering Portugal to its south. This is a wet and green region, plenty of vegetation that feeds off the 71 inches of rain per year.   In this  moisture rich environment red wines are a rarity and the white Albariño grape dominates. In fact it consists of 95% of all grape plantings and is the primary reason that the DO Rías Baixas denomination was created in 1980.

DO Rías Baixas encompasses five distinct sub-regions which form around the lower estuaries. Ribeira do Ulla is the newest (formed in 2000) and is the most northern region. Val do Salnés is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape. This is the original and oldest sub-region and it's fingers reach out into the Atlantic.  Soutomaior is the smallest of the sub-regions and was registered in 1996. Soils are light and sandy over granite bedrock. Condado do Tea (The County of Tea) is named after the river Tea, a tributary of the Miño River which separates the border with Portugal. O Rosal also resides against the Miño River -- adjacent to the Atlantic.

Because of the high rainfall and humidity grape vines are widely spaced and trained on stone pergolas and a wire trellis called a “parra".  These parras can reach up to seven feet tall, allowing breezes to prevent mildew and to promote even ripening. During harvest, workers must stand on grape bins in order to collect the grape bunches.

Despite the high rainfall amounts,  Rías Baixas vineyards are blessed with ample sunshine - averaging over 2,200 hours of sunshine per year. This sunshine in conjunction with the cooler climate provides an environment for high natural grape acidity. Albariño wines are also known for their floral and mineral character, most likely impacted soil composition within Rías Baixas. The bedrock is primarily hard granite with a top layer of  mineral-rich alluvial (a combination of clay, silt, sand and gravel) formed from deposits eroded from flowing water.

DO Rías Baixas Wine Types:

• Rías Baixas - 100% sourced from DO Rías Baixas.
• Rías Baixas Albariño -100% Albariño, grapes can be sourced from any sub-zone.
• Rías Baixas Val do Salnés - 100% Val do Salnés, 70% Albariño.
• Rías Baixas Condada do Tea - 100% Condada do Tea, 70% Albariño & Treixadura.
• Rías Baixas Rosal - minimum blend 70% Albariño & Loureiro.
• Rías Baixas Barrica – wines aged in oak (red or white), minimum 11.5% abv.
• Rías Baixas Tinto – red wine, less than 1% of all production. 
• Rías Baixas Espumoso – traditional method sparkling, minimum nine months on less.

According to the Roadshow, "the accepted theory regarding the origin of Albariño, which is now backed by genetic research, is that the renowned grape is native to Rías Baixas. This evidence is further supported by Albariño’s ability to naturally thrive in the region’s cool, wet growing conditions. Given Albariño’s distinct characteristics, it is perfectly suited to the region's climate and terroir, producing wines that are truly unique. The influence from the Atlantic Ocean air, long sunshine hours, cool nights, heavy rainfall and mineral-rich granite and schist soils create an environment that yields the purest expression of Albariño which cannot be found anywhere else in the world".

Check back for Part 2 when we discuss these Albariño expressions.

A Trio from El Coto de Rioja

El Coto de Rioja consists of twelve separate cellars and wineries, each designated with a distinct task. This includes the original winery that first opened in 1976, six years after their very first harvest. Today, that winery building operates as the administration offices, but there are new facilities that operate to process just white wines, others to just process Crianzas and Coto Real. Still another to age the Crianza and others for aging the Reservas and Grandes Reservas.  The vinification is carried out in small tanks that do not exceed 50,000 liters and all our red wines are aged in oak barrels, which are replaced annually. 

Last month I received samples from this brand that is a leader not only in Rioja, but all of Spain. 

El Coto Blanco 2022 ($11.99)
This wine is primarily Viura (with smaller percentages of Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo) that was grown in the Finca Carbonera vineyard. This vineyard was first planted in 2010 right when the  Regulatory Council authorized the planting of white wine grape varieties. The additional of white wine became so popular that in 2017 El Coto built a separate facility at Finca Carbonera to process these grapes. This is a fundamental summer wine -- begging for shellfish. It starts with a floral aromas that transitions to a saline driven center of white peaches, white grapefruit, and lemon, then finishes with racy acids.

El Coto Rosé 2021 ($11.99)
This rosé is dominantly Tempranillo 10% Garnacha  harvested from the Los Almendros vineyards. This site is the largest vineyard in all of the Denomination of Origin Rioja. The wine is made in the Provence style with light pressing, short skin maceration, and fermenting under low temperatures. This rosé is all red berries but what separates it from others is a noticeable herbaceousness with slight tannins and a fuller body.

El Coto Crianza 2019 ($16.99)
This savory wine is composed of 100% Tempranillo and processed using the regional requirements -- fermented and aged in oak for at least 12 months with an additional six months resting in bottle, prior to release.  The wine starts with a vibrant aroma of dark fruit, tobacco, mint that leads to a juicy, earthy, and herbaceous core. The finish is long dominated by approachable tannins.

Grape Spotlight: DO Navarra Ribera Alta Graciano with Bodegas Alconde

Navarra’s reputation for making exceptional wine blossomed during the late Middle Ages, as pilgrims traveling along the Camino de Santiago—a medieval pilgrimage route currently enjoying a dramatic resurgence in popularity—began noting the particularly high quality of wines they encountered as they made their way through the Kingdom of Navarra, en route to the shrine of St. James the Apostle in Santiago de Compostela, roughly 400 walking miles to the west, in the northwestern Spanish province of Galicia. (Rioja, Navarra’s next-door neighbor to the west, found its own early fame in precisely the same way.)  -- Navarra Wine

Navarra is not only the convergence of Camino de Santiago pilgrims and traded between the Iberian Peninsula and the rest of Europe, but also a "rugged, transitional zone at the convergence of three major climate types–Mediterranean, Continental, and Atlantic".  This results from its proximity to the Bay of Biscay (Atlantic Ocean) to the northwest, the Pyrenees to the northeast, and the Ebro River -- all combine to moderate the temperatures within the inherent Mediterranean climate. This convergence helps create a diverse landscape comprising a semi-desert basin, lush woodland hills, and high mountain peaks, all within a total area smaller than that of Connecticut.

The D.O. Navarra wine region occupies roughly half the area of the municipal region of Navarra, with approximately 11,500 hectares of vineyards. The D.O. is bounded to the north by the verdant lower slopes of the Pyrenees, just below Pamplona, and extends southward and outward, down a series of river valleys until the region reaches its southern terminus at the arid Ebro basin. Because of its geographic and climatic diversity, five sub-zones were created: Baja Montana in the northeast, Valdizarbe in the north, Tierra Estella in the northeast, Ribera Alta in the center, north of the Ebro, and Ribera Baja in the south below the river. A small section of Navarra is classified as Rioja DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada)".

Ribera Alta is situated along Navarra’s midsection -- a transitional belt between the semi-arid south and the dry north -- with a large concentration of wine-growing centered around the historical town of Olite. Many of the 4,125 hectares of vines are planted along the gentle slopes leading to the River Ega. Far from the influences of the Atlantic and the Pyrenees, Ribera Alta is typically warmer than its three neighboring subzones to the north. It contains a mixture of soils, depending on elevation and substrata composition. On most slopes, soil depth and particle size vary, with layers of fine or silty loam alternating with marl and sand. There are exceptions where vineyards sit atop shallow, loamy-clay soils with marked calcareous content. 

Photo Courtesy of Bodegas Alconde

Although Graciano is considered indigenous to Navarre, it is considered a minor grape with less than 2% of D.O. Navarra plantings. Perhaps because this variety is susceptible to mildew and very low-yielding. Wines made from Graciano have moderate tannins and an intense aroma that makes the variety very popular with winemakers to use in the classic Rioja blend with Tempranillo and Garnacha.

However, just to the west of Olite, in Lerín, Bodegas Alconde produces a single-varietal Bodegas Alconde Graciano X01 (14%).  Viticulture in Lerin is at least as old as the Roman era as evident by the wine artifacts found at the Roman villa at Arellano. Later in medieval times, there is documented evidence of the wine trade between Navarre and the Basque Country and La Rioja written in the La Saca of 1356 -- "a document which, by order of the Crown of Navarre, contained the records of this national export of the wine produced in the town".

According to Bodegas Alconde, "we bring together the whole tradition of winemaking that dates back to Roman times. We are local winegrowers, we are from here, we are Lerineses and we have been growing vines and making wine for many, many generations. In fact, we don’t even know from when because it is not documented. We only know that our grandparents, our grandparents’ grandparents, and their grandparents… all made wine".

In fact, Bodegas Alconde was created in 1956 as a collective of several small family winemakers who learned their craft directly from techniques passed from previous generations. They combined their vineyards -- 150 hectares of vineyards and all at least 50 years old and sometimes over a century old -- with the shared goal to create quality Ribera Alta wines. The vineyards around Lerin experience old winters and hot summers and are planted in poor and limy soils that are suitable for small yields.  The grapes for the Bodegas Alconde Graciano X01 come from such a low-yield plot. The wine is immediately impactful from its strong floral aroma which yields to bright silky cherries and a structured soft finish. Excellent. 

Maps courtesy of  Navarra Wine.