Grape Spotlight: Greco di Tufo DOCG from Feudi di San Gregorio

"According to Greek researchers, the broader picture of Italians of 'Greek origin' such as Greco di Tufo, Grecanico, Grechetto actually look to be non-Greek as none of them share visual traits commonly carried by Greek varieties.", 'Greek' grape varieties in Italy not Greek? Jancis Robinson

   

Greco di Tufo is a DOCG (DOC in 1970; DOCG in 2003) of the Campania wine region in southern Italy and shares the name with the region's predominant grape. The Greco di Tufo grape variety is a clone of Greco Bianco and was once believed to have been introduced to Campania from ancient Greece. However, as stated in the Jancis Robinson article above, that view is strongly debated. 

Although the Greco di Tufo grape also grows in Lazio, it thrives in the tuff-filled, volcanic soil surrounding Tufo and the seven other villages. According to wine-searcher.com, "the name Tufo refers not only to one of the villages from which the wine comes but also to the type of rock on which the village was built. Known as tuff in English - but distinct from limestone tufa - it is made of ash ejected during an eruption which then compacts.

The vines from which Greco di Tufo wines are made are cultivated at an altitude of 450 to 500 meters (1,310–1,640ft), where the cooler temperatures allow grapes to enjoy the persistent summer sunshine without overheating or having their photosynthesis shut down. This allows them to ripen without losing too much acidity, an effect magnified by the higher diurnal temperature variation here. The best Greco di Tufo vineyards are found on the volcanic hills of the Avellino province in central Campania. Only eight villages can legally claim to make Greco di Tufo: Tufo, Montefusco, Petruro Irpino, Chianche, Torrioni, Altavilla, Irpina and Prata di Principato Ultra".

Over 20 years ago the Capaldo and Ercolino families established Feudi di San Gregorio in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in order to produce wines from indigenous grapes well suited to the porous volcanic soils of Mount Vesuvius.  They stress the importance of the microclimate of Irpinia, a historical region of the Campanian Apennines, "where vineyards have always coexisted with fruit trees, woodland, olive trees and herbs: a rugged and yet gentle territory with a strong and genuine identity".  In addition, "Irpinia is an ancient inland whose vineyards were even described by ancient authors such as Pliny, Columella and Strabo. The Irpinia region is very varied, with a succession of mountains, hills and plains with rivers and streams in between. The territory’s orography causes a system of winds that gives the region good rainfall and creates a microclimate that sets it apart from the other Campania areas: vegetation is varied and thick; the short winters are extremely cold and snowy, while the summers are mild and long".

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo 2020 ($28)
This wine was aged for four months in stainless steel tanks and in contact with its lees at all times. This process creates a richer body that allows the strong citrus profile and minerality to linger throughout the mouthfeel. There's also a hint of herbaceousness that comes worth with the steady acidity.  A beautiful wine. 

Mother's Day with Riondo Prosecco, Bormioli Rocco, and the Minute Mimosa Sugar Cube Trio

This week we received an excellent samples kit from Terlato Fine Wine featuring a newly reimaged Riondo Prosecco, Bormioli Rocco Italian cocktail glasses, and a Minute Mimosa Sugar Cube Trio.  This family's mother was very pleased. I mentioned the reimaged prosecco because Riondo changed the style from a fizzy frizzante to a full sparkling spumante. Based on Prosecco regulations, this required a change in closures from a frizzante screwcap to a spumante mushroom cork closure as spumante wines have greater effervescence. 

Riondo is named for nearby Mount Riondo and the brand produces DOC sparkling wines using the Charmat method from grapes grown in over 14,800 acres of vineyards in the Veneto region. The Riondo DOC Prosecco Extra Dry ($15) is 100% Glera and is extremely dry with noticeable pear and bready characters.  The wine finishes with refreshing acidity boosted by the increased effervescence. We used the non-typical Bormioli Rocco cocktail glasses and added a Peach and Raspberry cube from the Shimmer Peach and Berries cube trio. The cane sugar added roundness and softened the sparkling wine while providing subtle fruit flavors. Can't wait to use the Bormioli Rocco for more traditional cocktails and picking up more Riondo at either WholeFoods or Norms Beer & Wine. Cheers and Happy Mother's Day.

A Week of Terlato Wines Traveling Through Napa, Sonoma, Sicily, & Tuscany

Last week I enjoyed four wines delivered to my door by Terlato Wines, the wine importer, producer and marketer who's global portfolio consists of more than 40 brands. These wines represented well known regions such as Napa, Sonoma's Russian River Valley, Tuscany, plus a second Italian region - Sicily. Here are my notes. Cheers


Markham Vineyards 2014 Napa Valley Merlot ($26) Solid wine and great value. Cherries and leather, structure, noticeable tannins.

Hanna Winery 2015 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($20) Closer to New Zealand than California, with it's creamy lemongrass, minor tropical fruits, and refreshing acidity.

Cusumano Alta Mora Rosso 2014 ($24) The most fascinating wine of the foursome, from Sicily's Mt. Etna appellation and 100% Nerello Mascalese. The indigenous grapes are harvested from the slopes of an active volcano 4,000 feet in elevation.  Similar to Nebbiolo, the thick skin grape are known for string tannins and enhanced acidity. And this wine features these elements as it comes across extremely dry and minerally - a food pairing wine with dominate tannins and acids.

Cecchi Classico Classico 2014 ($22) Another great value wine that we covered in more detail during 300 years of Chianti Classico with Cecchi Family Estate.  Sangiovese that starts with a refreshing fruit forward character.which transitions to a well rounded, structured, and lingering finish. Perhaps from the acids.  A complete bargain at this SRP.

Central Otago's Loveblock Pinot Noir 2012

Located in the southern half of New Zealand's South Island, Central Otago is an inland oasis of Pinot Noir growing vineyards. The area is mountainous and the vineyards - the highest in New Zealand at between 650 and 1,300 feet above see level. It is also the world’s southernmost wine making region. Because of it's rugged landscape there are pockets of micro-climates with one if these being the Bendigo Loop Road - home of “Someone’s Darling” Vineyard. This block is owned by the Marlborough based Loveblock winery (owned by Erica and Kim Crawford) and is Sustainable Winegrowing (SWNZ) accredited. The days are long here with 18 hours of daylight during the summer months and the altitude allows for diurnal cooling at night. The region is dry with sandy soils to encourage water draining. According to the winery, "the climate and unique terroir combined make this area one of the best for producing premium Pinot Noir". And after sampling the Loveblock Pinot Noir 2012 ($37, 14%) I tend to agree. The wine drifts between savory sour cherries and dusty earth and finishes with dry and lingering tannins. This structured finish is what elevates this Pinot to that SRP. Cheers.