#DLW13 - What's the Best Wine Grape for Maryland?

Last weekend I was fortunate to be included in a two day celebration of local wine, particularly, Maryland wine, at the 2013 Drink Local Wine Conference. During these two days of tours, tasting, and seminars; a common question was posed: "what is the best wine grape for Maryland?". That's a tough question considering the diversity of wine we sampled; from traditional Bordeaux varieties, to Chambourcin and Vidal, Chardonnay and Chardonel, Pinot Grigio and Noir, Albarino and Syrah, Sangiovese and Zinfandel, Gruner and Gewurztraminer and even Pinotage and Barbera. And that's not even listing blends.

During one seminar, Al Spoler, co-host of Cellar Notes, stated that Maryland should follow the road of Oregon (Pinot Noir), New Zealand (Sauvignon Blanc), and Virginia (Viognier) and hang its hat on Cabernet Franc.  And I tasted several tasty Cab Francs over the course of the weekend, in particular from Boordy Vineyards, Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, and Old Westminster Winery. Heck, Thanksgiving Farm even poured a white Cabernet Franc - made in the saignee style with all pigment removed. I would say Cabernet Franc has a future in the state.

However, during the next panel, Ed Boyce, from Black Ankle Vineyards, disagreed stressing that Maryland's best grape is a red blend, particularly when the state experiences unusual weather. Just look at 2011 when an "unscheduled irrigation event" occurred and most wineries experienced over 25 consecutive days of rain from late August through September. In these situations, Boyce believes the sub-par grapes can be blended and "declassified" into a lesser brand so that quantity becomes the problem, not quality. On the other hand, when conditions are more Californian, then the grapes can be blended into a reserve classification. And we tasted quite a few fabulous blends, starting with the standard portfolio from Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard (EVOE, Circe, Comus) and Black Ankle Vineyards (Crumbling Rock & Rolling Hills) to the Landmark Series from Boordy Vineyards (harvested from the Piedmont's South Mountain), the Thanksgiving Farm Meritage, and Big Cork Vineyards future wines. There's no doubt that red wine blends are solid offerings in the Free State. 

But there are other red varietal wines worth noting. Boordy and Black Ankle bother offer excellent Syrah and then there's the old champion Chambourcin. The Fiore Winery Reserve Chambourcin was the first Maryland wine I ever tasted - at least a dozen years ago - and today is still a favorite. I think I was one of a couple people who voted for it in the Twitter taste-off. Let's not forget the Knob Hall Winery Chambourcin and on two occasions our group was poured the Port of Leonardtown Winery Chambourcin and just as tasty as the Fiore.

Then there's the suggestions from Dr. Joe Fiola (UofM) who, for the past decade, has been assisting Maryland vineyards determine which grapes best suit their site. (Here's a brief video of his presentation.) For the the warmer southern region, where the diurnal fluctuation may reach a lackluster 15 degrees in the summer, he suggests southern Spanish and Italian varieties that are characterized by higher acids and tannins. One of these was the Slack Winery Barbera - a juicy, yet silky wine - as well as the Woodhall Wine Cellars Pinotage, harvested from the Schmidt Vineyard in the Eastern Shore, and more pinot than "tage" - very smooth. 

What about the  white wines?  Black Ankle wowed us with their Gruner Veltliner and Albarino. I look forward to trips to the beach to grab some Bordeleau Pinot Grigio or I'll just travel closer to home for some from SMV. Chardonnay is a stable in all Maryland regions as we tasted several very nice brands; and where that grape can't grow, Slack Winery proved that Chardonnel is a decent alternative. Port of Leonardtown also poured a refreshingly acidic dry Vidal and another favorites was the Gewurztraminer from Elk Run Vineyards.

So which grape may be the best wine grape for Maryland?  I don't know; maybe its this diversity which will strengthen and expand the industry. Or maybe its none of these grapes at all. We tasted several experimental wines being produced from Dr. Joe's research vineyards which included Colombard, Marsanne, Verdejo, Barbera, and most interesting a slew of hybrids from the former Soviet Union. These cold hardy grapes were actually planted in his southern Maryland vineyard and showed some promising results. Maybe the future of Maryland wine is SK 7753 or  SK 771099. Here's Dr. Joe leading us through a tasting of these wines.

Drink Local Wine Session IV: Tasting Maryland's Future

Plenty of #mdwine to sample at #dlw13

I'm looking forward to heading to Baltimore for the 2013 DrinkLocalWine Conference Friday and spent some time last night reviewing past posts on Maryland Wine, particularly The Wine Grapes of Maryland (a little outdated) as well as our trips to Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard and Old Westminster.  And looking at this map reminds me that Maryland is home to several excellent breweries in addition to Blackwater Distilling. Hope to be able to taste these as well over the weekend.

Participating wineries and wines I hope they are pouring:

• Basignani Winery - Vidal Blanc
• Big Cork Vineyards
• Black Ankle Vineyards - Crumbling Rock & Gruner Veltliner
• Boordy Vineyards - Landmark Reserve
• Catoctin Breeze Vineyard
• Cygnus Wine Cellars - Cygnus Red
• Distillery Lane Ciderworks
• Elk Run Vineyards - Pinot Noir
• Fiore Winery - Proprietor's Reserve Chambourcin & Zinnavo
• Galloping Goose Vineyards
• Knob Hall Winery - Chambourcin
• Linganore Winecellar - Terrapin White & Bacioni
• Millstone Cellars
• Old Westminster Winery - Cabernet Franc
• Port of Leonardtown - Chambourcin Rose
• Royal Rabbit Vineyards
• Serpent Ridge Vineyard - Basilisk & Vintner's Reserve Cabernet
• Slack Winery
• Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard - Circe & Comus
• Thanksgiving Farm - Meritage
• The Vineyards at Dodon
• Woodhall Wine Cellars - Gunpowder Falls Red & White

Google Mapping: To Cluster or Not to Cluster

I've been making progress with the Android version of the WineCompass mobile application and have implemented the major search features - by location, zip code, and state. Each establishment is display on a Google map with its marker corresponding to its category - winery, brewery, and distillery.  The last major decision I need to make is how to show markers for populous states such as California, Oregon, and Washington.  Should I just map each location as in Figure 1? Or is that too busy and instead, should I implement clusters, where clicking on a particularly cluster zooms the mapping coordinates to that location? See Figure 2. Once again I would appreciate your thoughts.

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

Update: Based on a wise suggestion, I am creating a preference so that a user can select which option they prefer, cluster or marker:

Settings

Menu

North American Wine Roads - Virginia - Route 211 Wine Trail

This week's North American Wine Trails post comes from Kurt Jenson and his Wine About Virginia blog on a new wine trail in the Commonwealth of Virginia.

Well, the unofficial Route 211 wine way is now "official."  The web site for the Rt 211 Scenic Vino Wine Trail is up and running, even though some of the wineries are not. 

Members of the 211 Wine Trail are Unicorn, Magnolia (open Summer 2013), Gray Ghost, Narmada, Gadino Cellars, Little Washington Winery, Quievremont, and the Copper Fox Distillery.

While most of the wineries should be familiar to regular readers of this blog, there are two new names in the member winery list of the RT 211 Wine Trail.  Magnolia Vineyards facilities are currently under construction, but they are now on their 5th season of growing vines on their property and they are currently making wines at other wineries.  Their 2011 vintage wines will be available for sale available in their tasting room once they are licensed and open. 

Quievremont is located at the center of center of Reality Farm.  Their website says that their 2012 wines should be ready in May 2013.  I noticed in an add that they will be at Vintage Virginia this year.

To finish reading about the 211 Scenic Vino Wine Trail, visit New Nothern Virginia Wine Trail.

A #TGTaste of Villa Maria Estate

This week saw the first #TGTaste twitter tasting of 2013 featuring two wines from New Zealand's Villa Maria Estate: the 2012 Private Bin Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($13) and 2011 Private Bin Marlborough Pinot Noir ($16). These were my first wines from the winery, but apparently they are quite popular, having to open a second facility recently in Auckland to satisfy demand. I found it interesting that founder, George Fistonich, is Eastern European as he says, "Being Croatian, wine is part of my blood. It’s always been a part of life and I’m pleased to have spent my career pursuing this life-long passion."  And for those where sustainiblity is a criteria in purchasing wine, Villa Maria is a member of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ).

Starting with the  Sauvignon Blanc, the fruit was sourced from vineyards throughout Marlborough, including the Wairau and Awatere valleys. You may want to check out Kiwi Daydreaming to find out more out the Marlborough region.  It looks like there was nothing fancy about the fermentation process, and the result is a typical clean and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc - grapefruit and lemon on the initial palette, some grassy flavors in the mid-palette, and a clean refreshing acidic finish. And extremely attractive at the $13 SRP.

The fruit for the Pinot Noir were sourced solely from the Wairau and Awatere valleys in Marlborough. The grapes were cold soaked up to 32˚C, with a majority of the juice fermented in oak and the remaining wine was barreled after fermenting in stainless steel on lees. The total oak treatment lasted 10 months. The resulting wine is all cherry, dark cherry to be precise, with a little plum mixed in. The mid-palette is soft and creamy with the cherry mixed with a few flakes of white pepper. The finish is nice and easy - and as suggested by the screw cap, drink now - and often. Cheers

North American Wine Roads - Virginia - Middleburg AVA

Courtesy of Boxwood Winery

The Commonwealth of Virginia is home to a number of American Viticultural Areas (AVA) such as Monticello (1984), the North Fork of Roanoke (1987) , the Northern Neck George Washington Birthplace (1987), Rocky Knob (1987), and Virginia’s Eastern Shore (1991), as well as sharing the Shenandoah Valley AVA (1987) with West Virginia. As you can see, the last AVA from the above list was Virginia’s Eastern Shore in 1991, with the remaining acquiring a designation in the 1980's.

In terms of the contemporary Virginia wine making industry, that's ancient history and quite a lot has changed since those early petitions. For instance, the petitioner of the North Fork of Roanoke AVA, Woolwine Winery, was the precursor to Chateau Morrisette and this AVA as well as Rocky Knob are currently home to very few commercial vineyards. In contrast, the number of vineyards in Northern Virginia have escalated rapidly in the past two decades particularly in Fauquier County and its northern neighbor Loudoun County, where there are now over 60 wineries operating between the two. 

Back in 2006, Rachel Martin, Executive V.P. at Boxwood Winery thought there was enough similar characteristics in geology, soil, climate and geography between many of these wineries that warranted a petition to the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) to designate a distinct AVA. The TTB defines an American Viticultural Area (AVA) as

A viticultural area for American wine is a delimited grape-growing region having distinguishing features as described in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) at 27 CFR part 9 and a name and delineated boundary as established in part 9 of the regulations. These designations allow vintners and consumers to attribute a given quality, reputation, or other characteristic of a wine made from grapes grown in an area to its geographic origin.

According to Martin, the designation matters for a number of reasons, first because it will allow wineries within the AVA to label their wines as “estate bottled” if the wine meets these conditions as stated by Steve Heimoff:

Take the term “estate bottled.” Up until now, a wine can be called “estate bottled” only if (a) it is labeled with an appellation of origin, and (b) the bottling winery is located in the labeled viticultural area, grew all of the grapes used to make the wine on land owned or controlled by the winery within the boundaries of the labeled viticultural area; and crushed the grapes (there are some additional restrictions).

To finish reading about the AVA, visit Middleburg Gets Some Signage For Their AVA.

Going Mobile at WineCompass

Figure 1

When not sipping and writing, my daily occupation is a software developer at Segue Technologies. As we all know, the technology industry is constantly evolving and in order for developers to stay relevant, they must continually upgrade their abilities. I've tried to stay relevant by building demo applications that interest me.  WineCompass was the result of learning Microsoft's .Net platform a decade ago and MyJoog was the result of becoming competent with the DotNetNuke CMS.  My current employer has recognized the popularity of mobile application development and is moving several .net-centric developers to that sphere - me included. I chose the Android path and naturally decided to augment my training by building a mobile version of the WineCompass website.

Figure 2

Initially I created several views and activities in order to understanding the basic Android programming functionality, including incorporating Google mapping. Currently there are three basic activities, search for companies by state, by zip code, or by current geo-location. The results are populating in either a list view or plotted on a Google map - see Figure 1. Each marker contains an InfoWindow that when clicked navigates to the Company Info screen (Figure 2).

In order for any application to be successful, it must satisfy client or consumer expectations. That's the purpose of this post and below are a few questions to those who would utilize this type of application.  Any suggestions by comment or email would be helpful. Thanks and cheers.

1. What functionality do you expect from a mobile application?
2. What search parameters are most important (location, zip code, state, products)?
3. What company information would you like displayed in Figure 2? 
4. What social networking functionality would suit your needs?

The United Grapes of America - California - Flora Springs Winery Napa Valley Cabernet Franc

It was only a matter of time that we turned to a California wine in our The United Grapes of America series and I want to feature one of our favorite Napa valley wineries, Flora Springs Winery & Vineyards. This three generation, family owned farm winery is best known for their Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon, Meritage blend, and Chardonnay. Dezel from MyVineSpot, just reviewed these wines last

StarChefs.com: The United Grapes of America

month. And Dezel also provided me with a bottle of their limited release 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Franc ($50) as a birthday gift last year. A year later, I finally opened the wine.  More often than not, I consume either Chinon or Virginian Cabernet Franc, and the Flora Springs was neither; more full bodied than a Chinon, and less peppery and earthy than a Virginian. It was actually more Pinot-ist: fruity, feminine, and creamy with just a touch of pepper at the tail. Basically, it was delicious; the cherry and vanilla flavors melted throughout the palette and the finish was nice and easy. Too bad it's not an annual release. Cheers.

Winerist - A Global Wine Travel Portal

We've always enjoyed visiting wineries when we traveled - whether the wineries were destinations in themselves, or when we wanted to find a winery in a unique location. WineCompass was basically the result of these travels. Over the years other wine related travel sites have emerged, many with more robust features, and understanding the limitations of our site, we readily use these alternatives to augment our travel planning. One of these is Winerist, a relatively new platform focusing on world travel that connects wine tourists with local experts, special accommodations, wineries, and tour guides. For each region, they publish a short wine making history; a map; suggested itineraries and tours; and guides on where to taste, stay, and eat. Plus many attractive photos that are an incentive along to start making travel plans.

The site currently provides information for 30 wine regions, with France (8 regions), Italy (4 regions), Chile (4 regions), Spain (2 regions), and South Africa (2 regions) having multiple regions represented. In North America, Winerist includes travel information for Napa and the Okanagan Valley - perfect timing for the bloggers attending the 2013 Wine Bloggers Conference.  And they've also included other popular regions such as  Mendoza, Barossa Valley, Dubrovnik-Dalmatia, Douro Valley, Tokaj, and Santorini. For the last two, I will be providing a short overview of the region's wine history and wineries in the coming months.

Besides self interest, I encourage you to check out Winerist; there's plenty of cool information like Bike & Wine in the Casablanca Valley or Cooking & Tasting in Santorini. Plus with the social aspect, you can contribute your own wine travel experiences. Cheers.

The United Grapes of America - Maryland - Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard Comus

Even though we live in Virginia, the closest winery to us is actually in Maryland, Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard. We've been heading up I270 on a regular basis for the past seven years  to hike up the mountain and then enjoy some nice wine afterwards. The winery is owned by a family conglomeration, the offspring of Dan and Polly O'Donoghue - who purchased the farm in the early 1960s - included the signature bright red barn (built in the early 1900s). When deciding to plant vines, they hired vineyard consultant, Lucie Morton, who meticulously surveyed the property and determined which Bordeaux varieties would excel in each lot. They then double downed on success by hiring Carl DiManno as their vineyard manager and winemaker. Morton and DiManno have contributed to dozens of successful east coast wineries, and most definitely SMV.

StarChefs.com: The United Grapes of America

In 2011, Benoit Pineau took over the wine-making responsibilities and can claim credit for our current profile - the 2011 Comus. The wine's namesake is both the Greek god of revelry and merriment and also the road in which the winery is situated. It is composed of several Bordeaux varieties and aged in used French oak resulting in a flavorful dark fruit and slightly spicy profile. It is medium - full bodied with subtle tannins - easy to drink alone or pair with tenderloin, pork roast and game (as the winery suggests).  This is a really nice wine, one of my favorites from the state.  The judges at the 2013 International Eastern Wine Competition also enjoyed this wine, giving it Best in Class for Bordeaux styled red blends. Cheers to that and to the upcoming DrinkLocalWine.com conference scheduled for April 13th in Baltimore. Spend the day tasting the many quality wines Maryland has to offer. You won't be disappointed.

A Tale of Two Tequilas: Mañana & Don Nacho

In between tasting wine, we've been toasting to tequila - in particular two Blanco - 100% agave tequilas with two completely different tasting profiles: the Tequila Mañana ($40) & Don Nacho Silver ($25).  The Mañana is a premium tequila from Distillery Feliciano Vivanco y Asociados NOM 1414and the brand is named after the Don Panchito legend. When asked when he was going to bring the tequila out of the barrels, Don Pancho Vidal would respond: "Mañana (tomorrow), mañana, will be the day."  This is a light tequila, very smooth - with some creaminess. The nose is citrus, but the flavor resembles caramelized sugar, with only a very slight hint of agave. Almost too slight.

On the other hand, the Don Nacho exudes agave, from the nose to the tail. The family owned distillery uses their own agave farm located in the Jalisco region. It shares a similar citrus nose as the Mañana, but with a shorter finish and less texture. The burn is short, leaving pure agave in the throat. In general, not a bad tequila.

The Mañana is easily, and as expected, the better of the two, but for my tastes, not by much. I miss the agave flavor in the Manana and wish the Don Nacho possessed a little more texture and creaminess. Hopefully I can find the premium Don Nacho soon to compare that to the Mañana. Cheers.

Get Ready for DLW 2013 - Coming Soon to Maryland Wine Country

The fifth annual Drink Local Wine conference will be held this April13, 2013 in Baltimore Maryland, focusing on that state's growing wine industry. DLW 2013 will include seminars showcasing Maryland and regional wine as well as the Maryland Twitter Taste-off, featuring two dozen of the state’s best wineries. The Maryland Winery Association is the primary sponsor for the conference and according to Kevin Atticks, the Maryland Wine Association’s executive director, “We're growing a world of wine styles and varieties throughout Maryland, and we're excited to share them through Drink Local Wine”.  And yes, they are growing; the number of wineries now stand at 61- almost 50 percent more than in 2010. And the grape varieties planted are extremely diverse, from European vinifera, to the French-hybrids, to native labrusca. In fact Mr. Atticks informs us that there are more than 90 grape varieties grown in the state. According to our WineCompass database vinifera is the most popular with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, and Merlot leading the field. Vidal Blanc, Chambourcin, and Seyval Blanc are the most popular hybrids with a few instance of Concord and Niagara representing labrusca grapes. There's even some Blaufrankisch, Norton, Riesling, and Italian varieties such as Barbera, Sangiovese, and Montepulciano.

The Free State consists of four main grape growing regions - the Piedmont Plateau, Eastern Shore, Southern Plain, & Western Mountains. Each region is diverse and hosts a different assortment of grapes - from the more cold hardy variety in the Western Mountains to those that flourish with the strong diurnal fluctuations in the Eastern Shore. The Piedmont Plateau and Southern Plain seem to be the most populous regions and host several wine trails for visitors.  The Piedmont Plateau encompasses a large area from the base of the Catoctin Mountains to the west to the head of the Chesapeake Bay. The rolling hills are reminiscent of horse country within Virginia's new Middleburg AVA. The Southern Plain is hot and humid and this is where the Mediterranean varieties excel particularly where the sandy soils can limit yields.

We've visited many of the wineries in these regions through WineCompass, MyJoogTV, and even VirginiaWineTV. And on each visit have been impressed with the wines as well as the dedication and enthusiasm of the winemakers. In the coming weeks we plan to showcase Maryland's wine trails and wines - starting with an old video of Ed Boyce co-owner of Black Ankle Vineyards - discussing why many of us consider him the premier winemaker in the state. Hope to see you in Baltimore on the 13th.


MyJoogTV Episode 3: Uncle Dave Huber at Black Ankle Vineyards from MyJoogTV on Vimeo.

Maker's Listens to Prevailing Winds, Reverses Course

We posted last week on Maker's Mark decision to meet increased demand by changing their recipe by diluting their whiskey. Apparently feedback was not very positive and the distillery has changed course. Good for them. I personally think there were better solutions - perhaps raising the price while simultaneously introducing a smaller bottle?  In any case, as one LinkedIn commenter noted, "but I greatly appreciate the company's openness and honesty with their customers. How many beverage makers do you know have changed the formula of their product and didn't bother telling the public?" I agree with that sentiment. Here's a letter from Chief Operating Officer, Rob Samuels:

Dear Ambassador,

Since we announced our decision last week to reduce the alcohol content (ABV) of Maker’s Mark in response to supply constraints, we have heard many concerns and questions from our ambassadors and brand fans. We’re humbled by your overwhelming response and passion for Maker’s Mark. While we thought we were doing what’s right, this is your brand – and you told us in large numbers to change our decision.

You spoke. We listened. And we’re sincerely sorry we let you down.

So effective immediately, we are reversing our decision to lower the ABV of Maker’s Mark, and resuming production at 45% alcohol by volume (90 proof). Just like we’ve made it since the very beginning.

The unanticipated dramatic growth rate of Maker’s Mark is a good problem to have, and we appreciate some of you telling us you’d even put up with occasional shortages. We promise we'll deal with them as best we can, as we work to expand capacity at the distillery.

Your trust, loyalty and passion are what’s most important. We realize we can’t lose sight of that. Thanks for your honesty and for reminding us what makes Maker’s Mark, and its fans, so special.

We’ll set about getting back to bottling the handcrafted bourbon that our father/grandfather, Bill Samuels, Sr. created. Same recipe. Same production process. Same product.

As always, we will continue to let you know first about developments at the distillery. In the meantime please keep telling us what’s on your mind and come down and visit us at the distillery. It means a lot to us.

Sincerely,

Rob Samuels
Chief Operating Officer
Ambassador-in-Chief

What do you think? Will diluting the whiskey change your preference? Would it make more sense to use market forces and raise the price slightly in order to decrease demand. And not diluting.

The United Grapes of America - Kansas - Davenport Winery Matrot Norton

When regularly traveling to Overland Park, Kansas - many years ago, I settled Holy-Field Vineyard & Winery and Davenport Winery at least once a month. Holy-Field was easiest to reach, situated not far from Interstates 70 and 435 and on course to the airport. Davenport, on the other hand, required a special trip to Lawrence, about 30 miles away. Fortunately, owner Greg Sipes accommodated my schedule by hosting regular business hours until 7PM on Wednesdays - lucky me. Like their neighbors in Missouri, Kansas wine consumers enjoy a good Norton and a couple Kansas wineries such as Davenport comply. Sipes has produced several styles of Norton, with one being the Matrot Norton, named after the Matrot Castle, a Topeka landmark since 1883 and a clandestine Prohibition hangout. Davenport Winery now operates a satellite tasting facility from the castle.
into a routine where I would visit both

StarChefs.com: The United Grapes of America

Returning to the Matrot Norton, it was made from Kansas grown grapes and aged in used whiskey casks.  I purchased this non-vintage wine in 2006, so it has had six and a half years to mature in bottle. My Missouri friends tell me that you should never open a Norton before three years in the bottle, so this wine should be primed.  The nose starts with an interesting combination of grape (almost concord-ish) and leather, followed by creamy vanilla cherry on the palette. The grapiness completely subsides resembling more of a Cabernet Franc profile particularly with the spicy, green peppery finish. And no trace of the whiskey. Not bad at all and at, I believe $15, easy on the wallet. Also pairs well with leftover Valentine's Day chocolate.

North American Wine Roads - Texas - Thirsty Oaks Wine Trail

Due to the popularity of our listing of North American Wine Trails & Regions, we've decided to expand this topic by enlisting the help of regional experts to describe the wine trails in their local. Our first guest writer is Jeff Cope, the Texas Wine Lover, who recently traveled the Thirsty Oaks Wine Trail.

We were invited to spend the weekend at the winery The Vineyard at Florence by our friends Mike and Carol. We gladly accepted the offer and we all tried to determine what other wineries were nearby. After looking at the map, I thought why not look to see what wine trails The Vineyard at Florence was on and it turned out to be the Thirsty Oaks Wine Trail. The wine trail includes four wineries: The Vineyard at Florence, Inwood Estates Vineyards, Perissos Vineyard and Winery, and Pilot Knob Vineyard. That turned out to be our scheduled plan.

Since we would be staying at The Vineyard at Florence villas, we decided to start at the furthest winery which was Perissos Vineyards. Since Mike and Carol would be staying until Monday and we had to leave on Sunday, we met at Perissos when it opened. Owner/winemaker Seth Martin soon greeted us and gave us a tour of the winery starting at the estate vineyard.

We had enjoyed a previous vineyard tour with Seth when they were giving free tours last year so we remembered most of what he told Mike and Carol, but with just the way Seth shows his enthusiasm about growing grapes, it is always enjoyable listening to him. He explained how they are adding another three acres of vines in April which will include Petite Sirah and Malbec. Seth described how he developed his own trellis system for the vines so everything is done at eye level instead of being lower which requires bending over or higher which eventually hurts your shoulders. Another thing Seth does differently than most other wineries is determining when to pick the grapes. Instead of relying on brix, pH, or acid to decide when to pick, he lets his tasting of the grapes determine it. He explained after the brix level is reached, the flavor of the grapes come through at that point, and that is when he prefers to pick just before they eventually would turn into raisins.

Seth Martin

We then headed back into the winery to do a tasting of the wines. During the tasting, we were fortunate to do a tasting of the 2012 Viognier which would be bottled in three days. Again we were very lucky to have a vertical tasting of Perissos Tempranillos. These included the 2009 Tempranillo which is a blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Touriga Nacional, 2010 which is 80% Tempranillo and 20% Touriga Nacional, and the 2011 which is 90% Tempranillo and 10% Touriga Nacional. The overall favorite from the group was the 2011 which had the higher percentage of Tempranillo.

To finish reading about the trip, visit Road Trip to the Thirsty Oaks Wine Trail.

Cakebread Cellars 2008 Benchland Select Cabernet Sauvignon

Our final wine from the comp December Wine Chateau shipment was the Cakebread Cellars 2008 Benchland Select Cabernet Sauvignon ($85). Now, we have been long time fans of the Cakebread Chardonnay but, for some reason, have never tried any of their cabs. The Benchland Select is sourced from the their Hill Ranch vineyard in Rutherford (57%) and vineyards in the Oakville appellation (43%).  In 2008, the Hill Ranch suffered through early season frost so yields were low - resulting in very concentrated fruit. The juice was fermented in various tank sizes and then aged 22 months in French oak barrels, with almost half in new barrels. The wine starts a little hot on the nose, in which the alcohol eventually dissipates to reveal dark berries and leather. Tart blackberries surface in the palette with a creamy texture and bits of cocoa. The tannins are subtle, creating a fruit forward, easy drinking wine, closer to a pinot than a big Napa cab. To reach its full potential, the wine may need another year in bottle, but this is one that we finished rather quickly. And the 2009 has now been released, so you have two vintages to choose from. Cheers. 

Maker's Mark Scrambles to Satisfy Demand by Diluting?

Maker's Mark has always been successful not only because of their unique red wax seal but also from their unique recipe which combines  red winter wheat with the traditional barley and corn. This demand has increased to the point where the distillery had to modify the final alcohol by volume in order to increase production to satisfy there thirsty customers. Apparently,  the Maker's unique flavor was not sacrificed. Really? Here's a letter from Chief Operating Officer, Rob Samuels:

Dear Maker’s Mark® Ambassador,

Lately we’ve been hearing from many of you that you’ve been having difficulty finding Maker’s Mark in your local stores.  Fact is, demand for our bourbon is exceeding our ability to make it, which means we’re running very low on supply. We never imagined that the entire bourbon category would explode as it has over the past few years, nor that demand for Maker’s Mark would grow even faster.

We wanted you to be the first to know that, after looking at all possible solutions, we’ve worked carefully to reduce the alcohol by volume (ABV) by just 3%. This will enable us to maintain the same taste profile and increase our limited supply so there is enough Maker’s Mark to go around, while we continue to expand the distillery and increase our production capacity.

We have both tasted it extensively, and it’s completely consistent with the taste profile our founder/dad/grandfather, Bill Samuels, Sr., created nearly 60 years ago.  We’ve also done extensive testing with Maker’s Mark drinkers, and they couldn’t tell a difference.

Nothing about how we handcraft Maker’s Mark has changed, from the use of locally sourced soft red winter wheat as the flavor grain, to aging the whisky to taste in air-dried American white oak barrels, to rotating our barrels during maturation, to hand-dipping every bottle in our signature red wax.

In other words, we’ve made sure we didn’t screw up your whisky.

Sincerely,

Rob Samuels
Chief Operating Officer
Ambassador-in-Chief

What do you think? Will diluting the whiskey change your preference? Would it make more sense to use market forces and raise the price slightly in order to decrease demand. And not diluting.

Update: And Maker's reverses their decision. See letter.

Wines of Santorini...from Assyrtiko to Vinsanto

Wines from Santorini

Santorini, we've all seen photos of the picturous villages and white sandy beaches on this Greek archipelago. But many of us are probably unfamiliar of the rich wine-making tradition (3500 BC) on these islands - particular the main island of Santorini. We were very unfamiliar; until we received a care package of wines from the Wines From Santorini. Here's what we learned.

The current geographic layout of Santorini is the result of a massive volcanic eruption in 1600BC that created the central lagoon and surround islands. The inhabitants were destroyed, but a few vines survived which may be the lineage to the most important indigenous wine grape: Assyrtiko.  Along with Athiri and Aidani, these grapes comprise the majority of Santorini white wines as well as Vinsanto (Italian: "holy wine"). This is a dessert wine made from sun-dried grapes, then aged in barrel; a Mediterranean delicacy for centuries.

Wines from Santorini

Grape growing on Santorini is quite unique. Because of the volcanic eruption, the limestone base is covered with chalk, slate, ash, and lava. This composition helps to create wines with a naturally low pH level and high acidity.  The lack of clay in the soil also creates a natural barrier to the Phylloxera louse which has never ventured onto the island. As a result, the vines are some of the oldest, ungrafted vines in the world. Finally, rainfall is quite rare, but the vines are "watered" at night by a mist that rolls in from the Aegean. The seas also bring heavy winds so the vines are pruned like a cylinder in order to protect the fruit.  The result of this hot, dry, climate is very low yields - averaging 25 hl/ha. And all the wines are protected under the "Santorini" OPAP designations of origin.

The first wine we sampled was the Gavalas Winery 2009 Santorini a 90-10 blend of  Assyrtiko and Aidan. The Gavalas family has been producing wine for three centuries and the grapes from this wine were harvested from the "vineyard of Santorini" that is considered to be the oldest in Greece; perhaps even the world's oldest continually cultivated vineyard.  Pretty amazing. Only 25% of the juice is extracted from the grapes which is then fermented in stainless steel. The wine starts with a citrus aroma mixed in with a slight dose of salty air. The wine  tastes fresh and clean, with hints of minerality and decent acidity.  Very natural and nicely done.

The next wine was the Gaia Estate 2011 Thalassitis, 100% Assytiko. This winery is a youngster in relative terms, having opened in 1994. The owners, Leon Karatsalos and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, started the winery in part to save an old tomato processing plant from being lost to the modern world - i.e tourism. Their Thalassitis (“Thalassitis Oenos” Greek for sea-originated wine) is named for the ancient practice of mixing wine with sea water apparently for therapeutic reasons. Did they know something we are missing today?  Instead the owners of Gaia Estate believe that their proximity to the Aegean Sea creates a similar affect and provides the Thalassitis with a unique flavor. That, and 80-year old vines. The wine is bigger than the Gavalas with even more acidity but with the same mineral and and sea salt characteristics. This is your "Wow" wine, which was simultaneously proclaimed at our table causing a jinx comment from our son. Wow.

Finally, we moved to a vinsanto, the Karamolegos 2005 Vinsanto to be precise - a blend of Assytiko and Aidani. These grapes were sun-dried for twelve days, fermented two months in barrel, followed by two years aging in more oak. The result is a blood orange wine with raisins, honey, nuts, and vanilla popping up at various stages in the palette. The wine is syrupy - but not sickening so - with a long finish that invites you back for more. This is something else. We were first introduced to this style from a Cretan Wine exhibit at the South Beach Wine & Festival years ago and promptly forgot. Not anymore.

Here's to hoping we visit Santorini one day. Cheers.

The United Grapes of America - New Jersey - Tomasello Winery Rkatsiteli

From the plans of the southern Caucasus in the Republic of Georgia Tomasello Winery.  The winery is one of the country's oldest, opening right after Prohibition was repealed (license #68). Three generations of Tomasellos have operated the winery, producing an assortment of vinifera, labrusca, hybrids, and fruit wines - can you say New Jersey blueberries. And Outer Coastal Plain Rkatsiteli ($12). We had hoped to share this wine during our Discovering Georgian Wines for #winechat tasting, but the
to the outer coastal plain of New Jersey, the ancient Rkatsiteli has found a home at
logistics of online ordering failed us. Oh well. This wine starts with typical floral aromas, and continues with some apricots and spice on the palette. The wine seems drier than the Horton Vineyards and Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars - although the sugar levels are similar.  Not as acidic either, but just enough to balance the equation. Kudos to Tomasello Winery for producing a truly unique wine.

StarChefs.com: The United Grapes of America

2006 Bennett Family "The Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon

After the Casa Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay, we finally opened our next wine from the Wine Chateau, the 2006 Bennett Family "The Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon. We were excited about this wine because we tend to shy away from  Napa Valley cabs, primarily due to budgetary constraints. However, this one is definitely within our means, on sale for $20 at the online retailer. And what a QPR - particularly now that  the wine has been able to mature in the bottle. The wine starts with a big aroma as dark cherry and chocolate engulf the nose. I thought my face was going to get stuck in the glass; I couldn't get enough of this sensation. Dark cherry continues in the palette, combined with bits of earthy dirt and a creamy texture that ends with subtle tannins and a little spice; but a smooth, smooth finish. This is an easy drinking wine where the 14.5% alcohol is barely apparent. Not bad from a family of whisky distillers. Cheers.