Historic Wine Cellars of Slavonia, Croatia

The Slavonia (including the Danube) wine region is the largest both in hectares of vines and in the quantity of wine produced. It encompasses the easternmost region of Croatia where vines have been planted since before the Romans. After the fall of Rome, Cistercian monks brought winemaking to the Slavonia region in the early 13th century and after the Ottoman occupation, settlers quickly reinstituted viticulture. This led to the restoration of existing cellars but also the creation of new cellars as the culture of wine-growing and wine production expanded. During our recent tour of the region with Croatian Premium Wine Imports and The Passionate Foodie we visited over a dozen wineries and discovered several historic wine cellars. 

Kutjevo - Winery 1232
As the name suggests, the cellar for this winery was established in 1232 when Cistercian monks founded the Vallis Honesta de Gotho abbey. The cellar is a true witness to history with the Ottoman rule from 1526 to 1691, the 1741 dalliance between Empress Maria Theresa and Baron Franjo Trenk engraved into the cellar, restoration by the Jesuits, further restoration and investment by Baron Turković from 1882 to 1945, and post Communism, the purchase by the current owners: Božjakovina, Ltd. Many of these stories are inscribed in wine barrels deep into the cellar.  During our visit, we sampled a bottle of the Kutjevo Graševina (8 Euros) - a best seller from Croatia's oldest and most prolific wineries. The wine is fresh with green apples and almonds and noticeable minerality.  

 

Enosophia (formerly Feravino)
The cellar, located in Feričanci, was built in 1804 with the founding of a winery by the Mihalovićs -- a Croatian noble family from eastern Croatia. The Fericeva region (western Osijek-Baranja County) is known for its Graševina and Frankovka (Blaufrankish) and shares a similar tradition as Villany Hungary.  The current winery was established in the 1960s, privatized as an independent company in 1996, and in 2015 merged with the current owners Osilovac d.o.o. The Old Cellar is still utilized and is used for aging red wines, like the Miraz Frankovka (70 Kuna).  This is a nice representation of Blaufrankish with fresh cherries, a slight peppery spice, and hints of vanilla and chocolate on the finish. 

Ilok Cellars
Ilok is a city and region located in the far eastern end of Croatia - adjacent to the Danube and surrounded by Serbia except for a sliver of territory to the west. Grape growing has survived since the Illyrian times -- event before the Romans.  In 1450, Nikola of Ilok (1) built a 100-meter-long wine cellar underneath his castle, which itself was built on the foundations of the former Roman fortress Cuccium.  Wine production continued under the Ottoman occupation (1526 - 1688) and in 1697, the castle and significant properties around Ilok were granted to the Italian aristocratic Odescalchi family.  They expanded the wine cellar and in 1710, the Odescalchis planted the first Gewürztraminer vines in the area on the unique single vineyard appellation – Principovac. (This is the site of the grand Odescalchi summer residence castle.)  These Traminer grapes became the foundation for the famous 1947 Traminer vintage which was served at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth. During the Homeland War, the remaining bottles of this vintage, as well as the existing 8,000 library wines were saved from destruction by an innovative winery employee who build a false wall into the cellar. Wine that was not hidden was stolen and distilled into brandy by the Serbians.  During our visit, we sampled several of the Iok Cellars wines and highly recommend the current vintages of Traminer - particularly the Premium Traminac 2020 (70 Kuna). The wine is dry with the accustomed string floral aroma, and a full-bodied, citrus, and stone fruit profile

(1) Nicholas of Ilok was a Ban of Croatia, Slavonia, Dalmatia, and Macsó; Voivode of Transylvania; and titular King of Bosnia from 1471 until his death. A member of the Iločki noble family, he was one of the richest landowners in the Kingdom of Hungary and Croatia and one of its most influential magnates. He served under four kings of Hungary: Albert, Vladislaus I, Ladislaus V, and Matthias I.

Erdut Vineyards
Erdut is a small peninsula formed by the Danube River about 45 miles upstream from Ilok. This winery sets its founding in 1730 when Baron Johann Baprista Maximilian Zuany constructed the Old cellar - the oldest in the region.  In 1778 Ivan Kapistran I. Adamovich de Csepin purchased the estate and in the mid-1800s Fanny Adamovich Čepinska and her husband Ervin Cseh were the first family members to live in the manor. While touring the Old Cellar we learned an interesting story where Ervin built five large barrels, all functional except one in which he had built a card-playing parlor. He would play for days -- safely hidden from his wife Franny.  Currently, Erdutski vinogradi d.o.o is part of the Agro-Industrial Combine Osijek (IPK Osijek) and has become the largest plantation vineyard in Croatia at  490 hectares. The Old Cellar houses sparkling wine which should become available on the market sometime soon. In the meantime, Graševina is the dominant variety planted on 280 hectares, and one version is aged in the world's largest wine barrel (75,000 liters). the Graševina 2020 (25 Kuna) is fresh with a soft body and noticeable green apples and citrus.

Belje Winery
This winery is located in Baranya - a Hungarian word meaning "the mother of wine" - and operates two facilities in or near the village of Kneževi Vinogradi. Their Old Cellar is the largest old cellar in Slavonia and was dug into the hill in the center of the village.  It was first mentioned in 1526 in the descriptions of the Battle of Mohács where it was used as a stable. 170 years later Prince Eugene of Savoy was awarded an estate between the Danube and Drava rivers after his victory over the Turks at the Battle of Zenta in 1697. From that time the Old Cellar was expanded to three floors spanning 1,200 square meters. It holds wooden barrels made of Slavonian oak from the forests of Spačva and a wine archive containing 20,000 samples, with the oldest bottle, a Cabernet Franc, dating back to 1949.  The wines from Vina Belje were very impressive, particularly those from their Premium and Goldberg brands. That being said, their Premium Pinot Noir 2015 (75 Kuna) is excellent with integrated fruit (red and black fruit), a fresh mouthfeel, and structured tannins. 

Exploring Zagreb County and Its Culture, History, and Wine

I wish I had known last year, but Croatia's capital is surrounded by historical medieval towns, wine roads, and a gastronomical paradise. These are all easily accessible from a short drive from Zagreb and available for research through the Zagreb County Tourist Board. Within this parameter, I was able to spend time in the Turopolje region to the south and Plešivica to the west.  Each of these regions share many cultural identities but are also quite unique and in both instances, I would recommend starting with the Muzej Turopolja in Velika Gorica and the Samobor Museum in Samobor. 

Turopolje & Velika Gorica 

Velika Gorica is the unofficial capital of Turopolje and is situated only 16 kilometers from Zagreb and just south of the Franjo Tuđman Airport.  In Old Slavonic, Turopolje means "bull field" or "field of bulls" so expect to see murals of bulls within the city. Start at the Muzej Turopolja to receive an overview of the region's history and culture where you will learn about Andautonia (the seat of an Illyrian tribe and a Roman municipality), the Turopolje pig (an indigenous breed where the first written record dates back to 1352), the Coat of Arms of numerous noble families in the Free City, and the Turopolje wooden architecture -  whether for housing or wooden chapels. I didn't get to visit any wooden chapels but according to the tourist board, "the wooden chapel of St. Barbara in Velika Mlaka is the most attractive and certainly the most representative example of wooden church architecture in Croatia".  However, the Muzej Turopolja provides an interactive display showing the German or Croatian joints used for building these structures. As for craft beverages, plan a tasting of brandies and gin at Brigljevic Distillery, or ask around for homemade wine or rakija. I was fortunate enough to have a tour of the private vineyards of Nikola Hrvacic and taste his award-winning Vermouth. 

Samobor

Samobor is a picturous medieval town located west of Zagreb on the eastern slopes of the Samobor hills which separate Slovenia from Croatia. It has played a significant role in Croatia's national identity starting with it becoming a free royal town in 1242 as established by King Béla IV of Hungary.  The Samobor Museum documents this and many other instances of promoting the Croatian language and identity in a town located at the crossroads of the Austrian Empire. This might also explain why there are so many items designated by the EU or UN as culturally and historically significant to Croatia. This includes the aromatized wine Samoborski Bermet and Muštarda -- a sweet and spicy sauce made from local mustard seeds and sweet grape must  (See Samoborski Bermet - Croatia's First Protected Aromatized Wine). There's also the light and creamy Samoborska kremšnita, crystal,  and the Gingerbread and Licitar Hearts which are on the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Licitars are hard, sweet, decorated biscuits that in Croatia are heart-shaped and painted red, then decorated with pictures, small mirrors, and verses or messages.

Plešivica Wine Road

The majority of our time was spent visiting wineries along the Plešivica Wine Road (the smallest wine region in Croatia) from our base at the Princess Hotel in Jastrebarsko -- 25 km south of Samobor. In two days we managed to visit 6 of the 35 wineries on the wine road starting with the highly regarded Korak Family Estate Winery. This is a family estate, run by the 4th and 5th generations of grape growers and located on a family home and farmhouse that dates from 1900.  Velimir Korak currently operates the winery along with his youngest son Josip. Across multiple estates throughout Plešivica, they grow Rhine Riesling, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Portuguese with most of the estates situated between 350m to 400m above sea level and separated from Slovenia by the Žumberak and Samobor Mountains. The family has also been instrumental in developing Plešivica as a gastronomic destination as a result of Michelin star chef, and older son, Bernard Korak returning home to open the farm-to-table Korak Restaurant within the renovated winery. We tasted through most of their portfolio which includes still, sparkling, and amphora amber wines starting with the Sparkling Rose and Blanc de Blanc. Both are elegant and refreshing with a bottle of the Sparkling Pinot Noir ready to be opened here at home. I also really enjoyed the 2021 Sauvignon Blanc, 2020 Rhine Riesling, and the 2019 Križevac & Cimbuščak Pinot Noir - the latter a blend from two different estates.  This was an eye-opening experience that introduced us to the prevalence and quality of these grape varieties in Plešivica.

Robert Braje's Winery is situated in a valley surrounded by vineyards, near Jastrebarsko, and the rustic, wooden tasting room is a destination itself. The family has an interesting pedigree story to tell in that during the 1950s, Robert's Grandfather discovered a wine competition in Zagreb and created a homemade label for his homemade wine. After being awarded a diploma (medal), authorities threw him in jail because he was not authorized to produce wine. Fortunately, he was released rather quickly as there was no real regulation that he had violated. This award-winning winemaking was on display during our visit as we tasted several of Robert's wines while his wife Sanda served us Soparnik, a traditional Croatian dish of savory pie with fresh cheese and herbs.  The tasting started with a mystery wine, Veltlinac Cirveni, which we later determined to be Roter Veltliner. This Austrian grape has been planted in Plešivica for at least 300 years and makes a light wine with a noticeable floral aroma and plenty of acidity. Next, we were presented with solid representations of Pinot Sivi (Gris) and Rhine Riesling -- tart, citrus, and minerally driven for the first; full mouthfeel and structure for the second.  Finally, we tasted another Pinot Noir which strengthened our conviction of the quality of this varietal wine in Plešivica. The 2018 Pinot Crni was fermented in an open barrel and spent 12 months in small used barrels. This is an elegant wine that starts with velvety slightly tart cherries, texture, and firm tannins. Excellent. 

Šember is a three-generation family winery farming various estates in Pjenusac and with an extensive sparkling wine portfolio.  The winery is currently run by Zdenko Šember and his wife Ivanka with his parents (Ružica and Stjepan) passing along their experience to the younger generation -- Nikola, Lucija, and Klara.  The family began releasing wine under their own label in 1991, their first sparkling wine in 1997, and their first amphora wine in 2011. Always innovating. We started with the delicious Šember Brut Rosé - a fruity raspberry and effervescent Pinot Noir. This was followed by the Šember Pjenusac Brut, a traditionally made Blanc de Blanc but using Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Plavec Žuti - the latter providing increased acidity.  Expect pears, green apples, and yeasty bread. The final sparkling wine was the 2018 Pavel, a label created only in the best of years, This is a blend of Chardonnay (90) and Plavec Žuti (10) and is exceptional. Moving to the still wines, we started with the dry 2019 Rhine Riesling which provides a complex arrangement of grapefruit, other citrus, and green apples. The skin-contact amphora 2017 Rhine Riesling followed that had a bigger mouthfeel, and more tannins, but remained considerably fresh. Once again an incredibly elegant Pinot Noir rounded out our tasting with the 2018 Pinot Crni. This is a fresh wine where the grapes were planted on south-facing slopes and benefited from cool nights. The barrel aging in a combination of new and used French oak, elevated its profile without hampering the cherry flavors.

Jagunic Winery is a 4th generation wine-making team situated at the top of a small hill with broad views of the surrounding vineyards. The three Jagunic brothers currently farm eight estate locations located within a kilometer radius of the winery.  Our host, Dominik Jagunic, says all grapes are hand-harvested and they focus on producing sparkling and amber wines. These styles were on display with the traditional method Three Stars Brut - a blend of Chardonnay, indigenous varieties, and Rhine Reisling from three estate locations. Tropical and stone fruits with an extended finish. The Blanc de Noirs followed with its interestingly fresh tart cherries and slight smokiness spanning a great mouthfeel. The La Bulle Rose is a 70-30 blend of Blauer Portugieser and Pinot Noir and was the lightest and most refreshing of the three. We then turned to their Amber Selection starting with the 2020 Pinot Sivi which spent six months with skin contact in seven-year-old barrels and quickly moving to the 2020 Pinot Crni. Both are solid wines with plenty of character. The final wine was the 2020 Amber Selection Traminac Crveni which showcases a strong floral aroma that elevates into an apricot, kiwi, and herbaceous profile. A very smooth mouthfeel. These wines were also accompanied by a feast prepared by Dominik's mother of beef soup, salad, homemade bread, and a tray of veal neck and chicken stuffed with cheese and ham. Complete fulfillment.

Our final stop in Plešivica was at Kolarič Winery, a family winery that also includes 16 guest rooms for weary travelers.  Franjo Kolarič has eight hectares of estate grapes in the Sveta Jana winegrowing region and sources from another 15 hectares of cooperatives. He focuses on Pinot Grigio and created the Coletti label specifically for his upper-tier wines which is the Italian version of the family name. He also uses four 1,200 liter amphora vessels for amber wine production. The Coletti Amfora Pinot Grigio 2019 was an example of this style that spent one year on skins with a full-bodied, complex mouthfeel buttressed by chewy tannins. The Coletti Amfora Pinot Grigio 2020 is lighter with the addition of 20% Traminac.  The Coletti Pinot Grigio Classic is their best seller, spends all its time in stainless steel, and is fresh with plenty of grapefruit notes. The 2019 Coletti Grande Grigio spent two years in eight-year-old Slavonian oak and has a much richer mouthfeel and a longer finish. The most interesting Pinot Grigio was the Coletti Francesco Grande which uses wine from three vintages 2019-2021 and shows complex minerality and herbaceousness.  And to follow the Pinot Noir trend Franjo provided us samples of his 2018 Coletti Pinot Nero and NV Coletti Sparkling Rose. The 2018 is excellent after spending three years in French oak has a balanced mouthfeel with a chewy texture, and some vanilla to counter the fresh cherries. The sparkling rose is fresh showing tart cherries and a lasting effervescence.

Samoborski Bermet - Croatia's First Protected Aromatized Wine

In 1812, when America was fighting its second war against Great Britain, Napoleon's troops occupied parts of the Austrian Empire including the Plešivica region and the town of Samobor, a free royal town since 1242 as established by King Béla IV. Whether the troops introduced "moustard" to the region or provided its name, Samobor is known for their Muštarda -- a sweet and spicy sauce made from local mustard seeds and sweet grape must. 

The troops most likely also sampled Bermet, a local aromatized wine made with a specific sweet-bitter taste. This beverage was first concocted by physicians for medicinal purposes as indicated by a 1755 document from the manual of pharmacists of the Samobor Franciscan monastery. It was soon adopted by multiple Noble families as an aperitif. Since Samobor was a trading center located at the crossroads of the Austrian Empire, these recipes included various Mediterranean fruits and herbs, such as wormwood, carob, dried figs, candied sugar, and nutmeg. 

Because of Bermet's historic production in Samobor and the desire to protect and promote that tradition, on "March 22, 2017, the Croatian Ministry of Agriculture approved the product specification for the existing geographical indication of aromatized wine products: 'Samoborski bermet', making it the only protected aromatized wine product in the Republic of Croatia".  In 2020, the European Union extended this designation throughout Europe under the geographic quality schemes -- which "establish intellectual property rights for specific products, whose qualities are specifically linked to the area of production". These are systems similar to the national appellation systems used for wine throughout Europe.

Members of the Filipec family have been making Bernet and Muštarda since at least 1812. The Filipecs were leather makers with the tannery located steps from Samobor's main square. However, in 1946, the tannery was confiscated from Josip Joca Filipec, who in need of a livelihood, started producing Bermet and Muštarda commercially.  Upon his death, he distributed the Bermet production to his eldest son Vojko and the Muštarda production to his youngest son Antun Dubravko. 

In 1999 grandson Antun officially opened Podrumi Philipecz after renovating the old tannery discovering an old well and forced to work with the sloping floors of the former factory.   Antun also augmented into producing more traditional still and sparkling wines -- some produced partially using a wooden press built in 1864. These include delicious Grasevina, Pinot Sivi (Pinot Gris), a Rose Tia, and Cuvee Roko. 

Returning to Bermet, Antun uses a Frankovka (Blaufranish) and Blauer Portugieser (both grown on the nearby Samobor Mountains) as a base then blends in the proprietary ingredients (certainly wormwood, carob, oranges, and dried figs) and aging six months in oak. The current version (18%) starts with an herbaceous aroma and then moves between sweet and bitter with both the wine and bitterness alternating taking center stage. 

During our visit, Antun showed us how Bermet ages, even after opening as the herbs act as a preservative. The 2009 shows less bitterness but richer figs and orange with a mint aroma. The 2006 is more bitter as the wormwood dominates. Finally, the 1992 retains a remarkable freshness with a strong aroma of various fruits and herbs and just a hint of bitterness. I purchased a bottle in hopes of witnessing the wine develop over the next couple of decades. And every year post an updated tasting note. Cheers.

Grape Spotlight: Fiano di Avellino with Feudi di San Gregorio

Like all the so-called archeological vines of Campania, Fiano barely escaped extinction. In the 1930s, the region was hit with phylloxera. That blight was followed by the devastation of World War II, which left Campania felix smoldering. During post-war recovery, the government encouraged farmers to plant prolific workhorse grapes like Malvasia and Trebbiano. Fiano, with its small berries and naturally low yields, was abandoned. Ode to an Ancient Grape: Fiano - Patricia Thomson

Fiano di Avellino DOCG (2003) is an appellation for white wine, located in the Avellino province within the Campania region and just to the south of our last Grape Spotlight -- Greco di Tufo.  

Fiano was saved from extinction by the Mastroberardino family and by other small producers and now is grown in several regions of 

Campania. However, it flourishes in the area of Avellino which is closest to the Apennine Mountains. This smaller region maintains its own mild microclimate; large diurnal temperature variations; and mineral-rich, volcanic, and calcareous soils.

Fiano most likely was recognized as a distinct grape variety over two thousand years ago. Its name is derived from Vitis apiana, meaning vine beloved of bees.  A different kind of vineyard pest. According to wine-searcher.com, "this wine was appreciated in the Middle Ages. The story goes that Charles d'Anjou, King of Naples, was so enamored with this variety that he had 16,000 Fiano vines planted in the royal vineyards". 

Over 20 years ago the Capaldo and Ercolino families established Feudi di San Gregorio in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in order to produce wines from indigenous grapes well suited to the porous volcanic soils of Mount Vesuvius.  They stress the importance of the microclimate of Irpinia, a historical region of the Campanian Apennines, "where vineyards have always coexisted with fruit trees, woodland, olive trees and herbs: a rugged and yet gentle territory with a strong and genuine identity".  In addition, "Irpinia is an ancient inland whose vineyards were even described by ancient authors such as Pliny, Columella and Strabo. The Irpinia region is very varied, with a succession of mountains, hills and plains with rivers and streams in between. The territory’s orography causes a system of winds that gives the region good rainfall and creates a microclimate that sets it apart from the other Campania areas: vegetation is varied and thick; the short winters are extremely cold and snowy, while the summers are mild and long".

Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino 2019 ($28)
This wine aged for about four months in stainless steel and is a very unique profile with citrus notes mingling with spices and nuts. Such an interesting combination without oak treatment. Expect sufficient minerality and light acidity. Excellent. 

GPS and Organic Farming at Page Mill Winery

When the Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association refused to assist us in designing an itinerary during our visit to the region, Dane Stark of Page Mill Winery quickly responded and scheduled a tour and tasting of his facility. Over pours of wine and a tour, he described the history of the winery. Page Mill was founded in 1976 by his father Dick Stark, but construction started a year before when he dug a huge hole under the family's house on Page Mill Road in Los Altos Hills to build out a winery and cellar. For the next 28 years. the winery operated at their home at the base of the Santa Cruz Mountains. Eventually, Dane took over the operation, and in 2004, Dane moved the operation to the "underestimated" Livermore Valley.

Stark refers to Livermore as being underestimated because he says there is a false impression in the Bay area that the region is too hot for grapes. Apparently, the S.F. news channels include Livermore in their daily weather reports and not only does it have the highest temps in the region, but that high temperature often reaches into the 90s. However, Stark noted that these broadcasts don't include the nighttime temperatures which show a large diurnal swing and help prolong the growing season and increase acidity. 

Since moving to Livermore, Page Mill Winery's estate vineyard has been farmed organically and driving into the premises visitors immediately notice the cover crops and tractor-pulled chicken coup.  The chickens help control the insects and babydoll sheep are an alternative to mowing as their manure also acts as a fertilizer. In fact. "sheep offer some of the best natural fertilizers as their manure pellets take time to dissolve into the soil". And in 2019, Stark moved toward biodynamic farming with the first release of biodynamic wines planned for the 2022 vintage.  

In the meantime, Page Mill's current portfolio is outstanding.  We started with a lively 2021 Livermore Valley Sauvignon Blanc followed by the 2021 San Francisco Bay Chardonnay. The grapes derive from Page Mill's former location near the Santa Cruz Mountains. Interestingly the hierarchy of AVAs starts with the Central Coast AVA then down to the San Francisco Bay AVA which the Livermore Valley AVA is a sub-AVA within. We sampled a range of reds that truly showcased the diversity of the region from cool-climate Pinot Noir to a Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. My favorite was the GPS - a blend of Grenache, Petite Sirah, and Syrah that just melts the palate.  Looking forward to posting on its longevity by opening the 2016 I purchased.  

I also want to return on the third Sunday of every month for Page Mill's BYOB program where consumers can fill one of their bottles for $10. A great idea. 

Grape Spotlight: Greco di Tufo DOCG from Feudi di San Gregorio

"According to Greek researchers, the broader picture of Italians of 'Greek origin' such as Greco di Tufo, Grecanico, Grechetto actually look to be non-Greek as none of them share visual traits commonly carried by Greek varieties.", 'Greek' grape varieties in Italy not Greek? Jancis Robinson

   

Greco di Tufo is a DOCG (DOC in 1970; DOCG in 2003) of the Campania wine region in southern Italy and shares the name with the region's predominant grape. The Greco di Tufo grape variety is a clone of Greco Bianco and was once believed to have been introduced to Campania from ancient Greece. However, as stated in the Jancis Robinson article above, that view is strongly debated. 

Although the Greco di Tufo grape also grows in Lazio, it thrives in the tuff-filled, volcanic soil surrounding Tufo and the seven other villages. According to wine-searcher.com, "the name Tufo refers not only to one of the villages from which the wine comes but also to the type of rock on which the village was built. Known as tuff in English - but distinct from limestone tufa - it is made of ash ejected during an eruption which then compacts.

The vines from which Greco di Tufo wines are made are cultivated at an altitude of 450 to 500 meters (1,310–1,640ft), where the cooler temperatures allow grapes to enjoy the persistent summer sunshine without overheating or having their photosynthesis shut down. This allows them to ripen without losing too much acidity, an effect magnified by the higher diurnal temperature variation here. The best Greco di Tufo vineyards are found on the volcanic hills of the Avellino province in central Campania. Only eight villages can legally claim to make Greco di Tufo: Tufo, Montefusco, Petruro Irpino, Chianche, Torrioni, Altavilla, Irpina and Prata di Principato Ultra".

Over 20 years ago the Capaldo and Ercolino families established Feudi di San Gregorio in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in order to produce wines from indigenous grapes well suited to the porous volcanic soils of Mount Vesuvius.  They stress the importance of the microclimate of Irpinia, a historical region of the Campanian Apennines, "where vineyards have always coexisted with fruit trees, woodland, olive trees and herbs: a rugged and yet gentle territory with a strong and genuine identity".  In addition, "Irpinia is an ancient inland whose vineyards were even described by ancient authors such as Pliny, Columella and Strabo. The Irpinia region is very varied, with a succession of mountains, hills and plains with rivers and streams in between. The territory’s orography causes a system of winds that gives the region good rainfall and creates a microclimate that sets it apart from the other Campania areas: vegetation is varied and thick; the short winters are extremely cold and snowy, while the summers are mild and long".

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo 2020 ($28)
This wine was aged for four months in stainless steel tanks and in contact with its lees at all times. This process creates a richer body that allows the strong citrus profile and minerality to linger throughout the mouthfeel. There's also a hint of herbaceousness that comes worth with the steady acidity.  A beautiful wine. 

A Trio of Cabernet Barrel Choices at McGrail Vineyards and Winery

How often does a good experience result from rejection? During our spring BevFluence Experience, we planned an outing to visit wineries in nearby Livermore Valley. After the Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association flatly refused to assist us in designing an itinerary, an experienced wine industry friend recommended we contact Page Mill Winery and McGrail Vineyards and Winery directly.  And sure enough owner Dane Stark at Page Mill and winemaker Mark Clarin at McGrail quickly set time aside from their busy schedules to provide a tour and tasting at their respective facility. 

Regarding McGrail, we could have missed out on a unique horizontal tasting of their 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon aged in three different barrel types. In 1999, Jim and Ginger McGrail first planted a Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard where they originally sold the harvest to Steven Kent Winery. soon they started planning on opening a winery and tasting room which launched in April 2008. Late the following year they hired Mark Clarin as their winemaker and over a broad tasting of their wine, Mark described his career before McGrail. I strongly recommend subscribing to the Swig & Ramble podcast to hear this telling in his own words.

Since his hiring, Clarin has expanded the Cabernet Sauvignon program by again that wine in three sources of oak: French, American (Missouri), and Hungarian. To completely over-generalize and based on all toast levels, French oak barrels are made from a softer wood and tight grain and provide "a fruity, cinnamon/allspice character, along with custard/ crème brûlée, milk chocolate and campfire/ roasted coffee notes".   American oak barrels fall on the other side of the spectrum with denser grain, more porous, and provide vanilla, tobacco, dill, and baking spice character. Hungarian oak falls in between even though it's the same species as French oak and has "high perceived-vanillin content, with roasted coffee, bittersweet chocolate, and black pepper characters".  A comparison of French, Hungarian, and American Oaks

Each of the three wines is bottled and released separately and a portion of all three is blended together for their Cabernet Reserve.  According to McGrail, "the 2018 growing season was one of those “perfect” growing seasons with moderate temperatures in Spring and Summer, allowing for the wine to mature slowly and develop beautifully concentrated fruit flavors".  The wines were all made from grapes harvested from the McGrail Estate Vineyard. Conditions for an interesting comparative tasting. 

2018 Patriot Cabernet ($54)
The wine was aged in 100% new American oak from Missouri and after bottling aged an additional five months before release. The wine explodes with flavors and tannins with a large mouthfeel, cherry and vanilla, which transitions to a more earthy and tobacco character. This wine will be difficult to cellar since it's very drinkable now. 

2018 Good Life - A Jo Elet ($59)
This wine was aged for 32 months in new Hungarian Oak. This is a full-bodied and dense wine that even though has fresh fruit flavors, needs to pihenés for a number of years.  The juicy tannins envelop a plethora of spices and notes of vanilla, dark chocolate, leather, and some cinnamon and coffee, I will open my bottle on St. Stephen's Day 2025. 

2018 James Vincent ($79)
The James Vincent was barrel-aged for 35 months and then bottle-aged for 3 months before being released. This wine's quality and overall deliciousness substantiate the higher price. It is softer and more elegant with a fresh dark cherry aroma and flavor. It finishes with baking spices grappling with firm tannins for a long luscious tail. 

2018 Cabernet Reserve ($49)
This wine is an interesting blend of the three-barrel types which none taking center stage. It seems to have a darker fruit profile and the tannic structure falls closer to the Patriot. There are plenty of spices and earthy notes that compliment the mouthfeel and this one is drinking nicely right now. 

A special thanks to Mark Clarin for allocating time for us on such short notice and providing such a comprehensive tour of the wines, vineyard, and facility. And I apologize for not highlighting your phenomenal first release of Grenache Blanc. Cheers. 

What We Learned While Visiting Ridge Vineyards

During our BevFluence tour of Ridge Vineyards, we learned valuable insight into the geography, history, and production processes of this iconic winery.

The winery is located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, a mountain range in central and northern California that forms a ridge down the San Francisco Peninsula, south of San Francisco. They separate the Pacific Ocean from the San Francisco Bay and the Santa Clara Valley and are bisected by the San Andreas Fault. The tension within this tectonic boundary between the Pacific Plate and the North American Plate pushed limestone soil to the surface of Monte Bello Ridge in which Ridges' vineyards are planted. 

The current tasting room was formally the production winery. When Paul Draper joined the partnership in 1969, they quickly planned to transfer processing to the recently purchased and abandoned Monte Bello Winery located near the top of Monte Bello Ridge. This facility was originally constructed in the late 1880s by Osea Perrone who also planted the first vines on the ridge at the same time. The facility included a large cellar built into the mountainside and a spring where water can even run through the winery after heavy rains. 

Ridge implements regenerative farming practices that complement its organic philosophy.  They plant an extensive range of cover crops to add nitrogen and organic matter, increase the population of beneficial insects, control erosion, and control vine vigor in excessively fertile soils. They also planted hedgerows in vineyards to "help harbor and expand beneficial insect populations, provide shelter for animals, shade for waterways, fix carbon from the atmosphere, and break up the monoculture of vineyards". Finally, they practice no-till (mow only on alternative rows) on our hillside vineyard blocks to help minimize erosion and build organic matter in the soil.

Through its estate vineyards as well as plots they manage, the Ridge harvests a plethora of grape varieties. These include Picpoul (which is blended into their Grenache Blanc), Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Mataro, Carignane, Counose, Grenache, and Malvoisie. Vice President of Vineyard Operations, David Gates, even planted Croatian Tribidrag in their Lytton Estate from cuttings directly from Zinfandel's home country.  This replicated a similar venture where Puglia Primitivo clones were planted at the Lytton Estate.

When Draper arrived at Ridge he was inclined to use American oak barrels, but in 1974 they started a trial comparing wine aged in American and French oak. The American oak was sourced from a cooperage in the Ozarks using Appalachian wood and made in a smaller bourbon size.  After the trials, the team determined that the American oak was better suited for the Monte Bello vineyard’s tannic grapes. Since the American oak is twice as dense as French, it contains more spice and wood sugar compounds that slowly extract and fill out a wine’s body. 

In February 2022 the winery named Trester Goetting as Monte Bello Winemaker where he will take over all winemaking duties at Ridge Vineyards’ Monte Bello winery. Previously he was the head wine-maker at Robert Biale Vineyards where he focused on Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Bordeaux, and Rhône varietals from heritage vineyards. Perfect training for Ridges' similar focus. Good Luck,

Finally, the ridge sometimes becomes a home for rattlesnakes in June and October. When that occurs the snakes are trapped and relocated to more remote areas.