BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy: Cambio -- A Mexican-styled Tequila

Tequila is one of the only spirits in the world to retain a sense of place through its entire process, it retains its Terroir. Every choice we made with Cambio is to enhance the effect and show the true potential of the spirit.” John des Rosiers - Founder of Cambio Tequila

At the very beginning of John des Rosiers' presentation at the BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy, he mentioned the desire to create a "Mexican-styled Tequila" as a result of conversations with one of his wife's Jalisco cousins pertaining to creating a new tequila brand. This philosophy closely corresponds to the above quote which I obtained while researching the brand before the Speakeasy. 

But what defines a Mexican-styled Tequila and what differentiates it from contemporary and popular tequila brands? This was the unofficial topic of the next 45 minutes and a later Cambio Tequila Dinner where Mr. des Rosiers discussed the rational for starting the brand and the many production steps he choose to come closer to "how tequila was produced back in the day".  These production steps feature a Tahona to crush the agave, fermentation in wooden vats, and distilling using an Alembic copper still. 

As des Rosiers pressed forward in developing this new brand, his cousins introduced him to ZB Distillery, the only operation willing to adopt his innovations and longer production times. The distillery also allowed a separate building to be completely modified to incorporate a design for 100% natural process. He also selected the Ruvalcaba de Arandas family and their Ruvalferti agave estate as the source for the whole Blue Weber, highland agave. In return the Global G.A.P. certified company adjusted to Cambio's unique harvest requirements. 

For modern tequila, the general production methodology is to harvest the piñas and at some point cut them into pieces, and cook using autoclaves (pressure cooker within 6-12 hours) or stone ovens (2-3 days).  Molinos (mechanized shredding mills) or  diffusers extract the aguamiel juice from the softened agave. It is the aguamiel juice that is then fermented -- usually in large stainless steel vats. After fermentation, the "musto muerto" is then distilled maybe in a traditional copper still, maybe a stainless steel version of the Alembic still, but more likely in a large column still - more suited for mass production. 

Cambio returned to a more historic Mexican-styled approach by cooking the piñas the same day they are harvested -- and cooking the Blue Weber whole. This allows the retention of various aromas and flavors that are lost early in the production process in modern processes. Cambio uses a stone oven to cook the whole piñas and allows four days to proceed instead of the standard 2-3 days.  The slower cooking of the agave won't caramelize the sugars as much, so it tends to create a sweeter, smoother spirit with less bitterness in the finish.  After cooking, a traditional Tahona wheel is used to gently squeeze the agave juice from the plant by hand instead of a roller machine or diffuser processing.  Like the slow cooking, the use of a tahona wheel helps retain inherent aromas and flavors. 

While moving to the fermentation process, Cambio continues reverting back to historic techniques. They slow the fermentation time down starting with using cooler deep-well water that is filtered by the volcanic soils. The low temperature fermentation is more reminiscent of wine fermentation and results in a more flavorful spirit with greater texture and complexity. This low fermentation requires a unique set of four types of yeast that can operate at lower temperatures. And most importantly, the fermentation occurs in wooden vats where ZB Distillery allowed Cambio to build temperature controlled tanks around the wooden vats. These vats are made from Tennessee white oak and traditional Mexican oak. The resulting fermentation process takes 14 days with includes 2-days of malolactic fermentation. 

The resulting "musto muerto" is then distilled 12 hours in an Alembic copper still to exactly 50% alcohol. There is no cutting of heads and tails and fats and oils are not filtered. Each run is tested in certified by the required authorities. 

All the Cambio tequilas are then aged for some period and they use 13 barrel types to soften and add complexity and nuance to their spirits. The Blanco is aged for two weeks in used White Burgundy and White Bordeaux wine barrels.  The Reposado is aged 30 days in a similar combination of used white wine barrels and then five additional months in French Oak Chardonnay barrels. And the Anejo is aged on average for 15-24 months blended from three different types of French Oak barrels and finishes. 

Even the labels are made using historical methods, in this case artisan “amate,” an ancient method of creating nonwoven fabric using the barks of indigenous trees that dates back to the Mayas and the Aztecs.

We will be following this post with various tasting reviews and cocktail recipes using Cambio Tequila. 

The Herdade do Esporão's Inaugural "Monte Velho Reserva Red 2022"

Alentejo is a Portuguese wine region that I vow one day to visit. It covers much of Portugal’s southern half, spanning the flatlands below the Tejo River down to Portugal's southern Atlantic Coast. It accounts for 13% of Portugal's area under vine and 18% of wine production. Alentejo incorporates eight sub-viticultural zones (from north to south: Portalegre, Borba, Évora, Redondo, Reguengos, Granja-Amareleja, Vidigueira, & Moura).  The climate is hot and dry with both a Continental and Mediterranean climate with winters exceptionally cold whereas spring and summer are dry and hot. The region experiences high levels of sunshine in the growing season -- over 3,000 hours annually. Wine-searcher.com also shares that the "Alentejo is broadly flat with hilly areas dotted across its zone. Major mountainous or hilly regions across the area include the Serra de São Mamede (1025m) on the border with Spain at the very northeastern end of the area, and the Serra de Portel (421m) and the Serra d’Ossa (649m), both in the central east".

The Herdade do Esporão estate is located in the Reguengos de Monsaraz DOC sub-region which itself is located squarely in central Alentejo. The granite and schist soils and the local climate are particularly favorable to vine-growing and the region is well known for its production of high-quality wines with their own distinctive characteristics (VisitPortugal).  The region provides the estate with two key advantages: access to water and diversity of soils. According to the winery, "Alentejo is a dry region, averaging just 58 cm/23 inches of rainfall per year. The estate sits on a probable north–south fault zone; fault zones coincide with areas blessed with groundwater. This relative abundance of water was decisive to the medieval occupation of the land and building of the defensive Esporão tower.

Soil mapping begun in 2008 by geologist José Borrego established that at least seven different soils exist within the property, with dioritic soils (medium- to coarse-grained igneous rock) found only at the estate. Dioritic soils result in wines wines with lots of aroma, fruit, and acidity. Granite-origin granodiorite soils eventually yield wines with great freshness and minerality. Other soils include mottled schists (the Reserva Red) for grapes with high sugar and phenol levels, and two different versions of sandy clay loam soils are home to some of the white grapes".

The boundaries of the Herdade do Esporão estate were first established in 1267 and have been unaltered since.  In 1973, José Roquette and Joaquim Bandeira bought the property because the Reguengos sub-region "ensures wines that were full-bodied but elegant and both big and seductive, thanks to a mix of very poor, stony soils and a harsh climate".  The first wine was produced in 1985 using the brand name Esporão which coincidently was the Esporão Reserva Red -- which we will be reviewing the 26th vintage. Currently, they have 450 hectares of vines planted with 194 grape varieties, 37 of which are in full production. Four of these grapes are included in the newly debuted Esporão Monte Velho Reserva Red 2022 ($18).

Traditionally, the winery's Monte Velho Red, White, and Rosé line is aged in stainless steel, but the Reserva is treated with eight months in oak.  The wine is composed of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez (Tempranillo), Syrah, and Trincadeira with an average vine age of 18 years. and the grapes were grown on barren granitic schist eroded into clay-like fragments. The granite schist provides structure to the wines, while its clayey texture helps with water retention. The Touriga Nacional offers dark fruit and tannins; the Aragonez, red fruit with earthy, leathery notes; the Syrah floral aromas and red fruit; and the Trincadeira, fruity and floral character. I found this to be a very food friendly wine offering sour cherry and plum flavors in a creamy texture, light tobacco - a solid backbone - and lasting acidity.

Why We are Attending the Eastern Winery Exposition

"EWE coordinates the biggest trade show outside of the West Coast.  This dynamic conference offers industry members to learn from the vendors who often can supply a wide range of practical advice and discuss the latest vineyard and winery equipment. The EWE seminars feature regional winemakers and entrepreneurs who willingly offer their success stories.. And given the neo-prohibition headwinds now facing the industry, the fresh and innovative ideas shared by forward thinking marketers at the License to Steal sessions provide realistic, cutting-edge suggestions on how to navigate the difficult challenges coming our way." -- Donniella Winchell, Executive Director, Ohio Wines

The Eastern Winery Exposition touts itself as the "Largest Production Wine and Grape Trade Show and Conference in the East" and that reason alone, should be incentive for any wine industry professional to pack their bags for Lancaster, PA.  Shame on me for never attending in the past. 

But this year I set March 25-27th aside on my calendar initially just for the multiple networking opportunities available during the three days.  On Tuesday March 25th, there is a two hour Welcome Wine Reception where attendees are able to sample wines from throughout the Eastern region as the greet and meet other professionals. On Wednesday March 26th there is both a Networking Lunch as well as the 13th Annual EWE Industry Celebration Reception & Dinner. Then on the final day, expect expanded exhibit hall hours to converse with exhibiters and attendees.

“The Eastern Winery Exposition provides opportunities for wine industry leaders to share knowledge, experiences, and wines in an engaging environment,” says Devon Perry, Executive Director of the Garden State Wine Growers Association. “The New Jersey wine community is enthusiastically committed to the future of this mission.” -- Devon Perry, Executive Director Garden State Wine Growers Association

If that wasn't enough incentive to attend, the seminar schedule truly is - not only for producers - but also for content creators who need to master some level of industry proficiency in order to produce higher quality material. Tuesday is dedicated to workshops focusing on the TTP, Workplace Safety, Taxes, and Succession Planning. We have already wrote about the numerous instances when the founders of a family enterprise want to retire, but their children have no plans to continue in the industry.  I'm also interested in the Bioprotection Strategies for Juice and Wine workshop where microorganisms could replace various chemical preservatives. 

“The Maryland Wineries Association sponsors the Eastern Winery Exposition each year because it’s a very important opportunity for our wine community to learn, network and share best practices. EWE provides the space for collaboration and the chance to take some time from day to day winery operations to gather with others from the Eastern wine region. Wine is communal, and everyone leaves this conference feeling part of the greater community, encouraged that there is support and appreciation for all of the hard work they do, and then energized to try new things going forward.” -- Janna Howley,  Cultivate & Craft 

Now, Wednesday is the most intensive day of seminars and workshops. It includes the License to Steal Wine Marketing Conference® (LTS) that is a full Marketing track as part of the EWE Conference. The other seminars fall within three other buckets: Enology, Viticulture, and a combination of the two (EV).  The later is represented by Solving a Grape’s Identity: Using DNA or Ampelography? We Say Both! presented by Lucie Morton, Adam McTaggart & Dean Volenberg. This session focuses on Norton and Cynthiana and will try to answer the delicate question,  Are these cultivars unique? Since I am dabbling in oak treatment I will not miss the Enology session: Stavin Barrel Alternatives presented by Megan Hereford, Emily Hodson & Scott Spelbring. Another interesting Enology session is Gamay’s Versatility and Potential by Robert Muse & Christine Vrooman. And on the Viticulture side, I plan on learning about the USDA/NIFA SCRI Planning Project through the Grape & Wine Industry Needs Assessment Results session. 

"To me, the conference has a three part purpose. Firstly, the trade show is worth the day all by itself. But I get a lot out of the conference. A lot our best practices we learned at EWE, vineyard management, winemaking techniques, winemaking materials, processes, etc. And then the final third was not only seeing friends from around the east coast but exchanging information with them in a meaningful way. Who's planting what grapes. Who's using what yeast. What's a new trend that's really moving the needle. You can always do what you are doing better. And have I mentioned the Grand Tasting or the Auction? It's a great event. I have never missed a year except for COVID. Always a valuable event in the eastern winery calendar." -- Carlo DeVito, Author and Interim Winemaker at Unionville Vineyards

The LTS track continues on Thursday and ends with Practical Ideas When Working with Influencers. At BevFluence we have several ideas within that domain.  I highly recommend the EV session on Grapes for a Changing Climate II primarily because it is presented by Dr. Joseph Fiola and always has an interesting set of alternative cultivars that he grows in various test plots - many with just a numeric name. On the Viticulture side take a looks at Grapes for a Changing Climate I where Dana Acimovic & Jeanette Smith evaluated over 50 old and new varieties from around the globe in terms of climate activity. On the Enology side, there are several sessions on white wines such as Sauvignon Blanc, <12% Alcohol or No Alcohol, and Aromatics & Texture.

Let us know if we are overlooking a must see session and we hope to see more content creators in attendance.  Learning about the wine industry is a never-ending process. Cheers.

Visiting Wolf Point Distilling During the BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy

During our Speakeasy events we try to visit local producers at discovered that Wolf Point Distilling was very close to our content house. Fortunately co-owner Victoria Polvino was working the taproom when we arrived, and thus, we received an excellent overview of the distillery and their expressions.  Regarding this portfolio, we immediately noticed the intricate hand drawn artistry of each label which illustrate the famed stories from Chicago history that inspired each bottle. 

It's name derives from the area formed by the confluence of the North, South, & Main branches of the Chicago River which was "central to the early development of Chicago, from its humble beginnings as a settlement in the late 18th century to its incorporation as a city in 1837.  It was home to the city’s first tavern, theater, trans-river bridge, and much more".  

Wolf Point Distilling specializing in small-batch spirits such as small-batch bourbon, rye whiskey, gin, vodka, and specialty infusions.  We tasted through their entire portfolio forming an appreciation for many of the very unique offerings, like the Everleigh Botanical-Infused Vodka. The spirit is named for the Everleigh Club, a renowned high-class brothel in Chicago from 1900 to 1911, and run by the Everleigh sisters.  It uses a vapor infusion distillation method followed by macerating select botanicals. These botanicals are Elderberry, Orange & Lemon Peel, Chamomile Flower, Angelica Root, Mint, Grains of Paradise, Hibiscus, and Caraway. The recommended cocktail fits perfectly within the BevFluence Effervescence Unleashed program. 

Everleigh Cocktail: A cocktail made with Everleigh Vodka includes 2 oz of vodka, 1.5 teaspoons of simple syrup, and 4 oz of Prosecco. Shake the ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice, then strain into a glass and top with Prosecco. Garnish with lemon peel.

On a similar plane, the Florence Field Gin was inspired by the woman (Florence Lathrop Field) responsible for donating the iconic Chicago Bronze Lions and various significant artworks to the Art Institute of Chicago.  This botanical forward gin is made using a plethora of ingredients -- Juniper Berries, Lemongrass, Coriander, Grains of Paradise, Cardamom, Lemon Peel, Angelica Root, Chamomile Flower, Orris Root, Hibiscus. This is a very pleasant sipping gin that would work with any gin based cocktail. 

The Captain Santa Vapor Infused Moonshine falls within the unique category as the moonshine is infused with vapors of the Christmas season (Cinnamon, Orange Peel, Lemon Peel, Hibiscus Flower, and Pink Peppercorn). The spirit was inspired by the story of Captain Santa, a generous and compassionate ship captain who gave away Christmas trees to those in need in the early 1900s before the vessel was destroyed during a storm in 1912.

The distillery offers two other vodka products, the Jackscrew Vodka and O'Leary’s 1871 Cinnamon-Infused Vodka. The former is named after the effort to actually physically lift Chicago's infrastructure 4 to 14 feet higher in order to create new foundations for a city-wide sewer and storm system.  And I'm sure our readers are familiar with the myth(?) of Catherine O’Leary’s cow, Daisy. The Jackscrew is clean with zero burn while the Cinnamon-Infused Vodka provides a little kick from the spice. 

For whiskey fans, we finally move into the barrel program where the Wolf Point Straight Bourbon Whiskey is a four year singe barrel made from a mash bill of 75% corn, 21% rye, and 4% malted barley. At 92 proof, the experience was improved with a drop or two of water which elevates the vanilla nose as well as the nutmeg and other baking spices on the palate.  The Wolf Point Straight Rye Whiskey is a little higher proof and includes 4% malted barley. This expression offers a warm chewy core with slight black pepper on the tail surrounded by a little earthiness, mint, and clove. 

Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for February 2025: Sparkling Rosé French 75

The Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for February 2025 is the Sparkling Rosé French 75.

We are celebrating both the American Cider Association CiderCon as well as Valentine's Day this month with an ode to rosé cider.

* 2 ounces Gin: Raincity Last Garden Gin
* 1 ounce simple syrup
* 1/2 ounce Lemon juice
* Top with sparkling rosé wine: Snow Capped Cider Sparkling Rosé Cider
* Lemon peel, for garnish (optional)

Raincity is a small distillery located in scenic Squamish, British Columbia. Last Garden Gin is a floral fusion of Elderflower and Osmanthus with the signature spicy flavor of Juniper. With over a dozen botanicals lending their spicy, citrusy, and floral flavors and aromas to this spirit, Last Garden Gin will transport you to a summer garden in full bloom.

Snow Capped Cider family’s orchard legacy spans over a century, with five generations cultivating a tradition of excellence that has grown into businesses like Snow Capped Cider. The cider is crafted at an impressive elevation of 6,130 feet, making it one of the highest-elevation orchards and cideries in the world. The Sparkling Rosé is made from single varietal Pinova apples aged on Malbac wine lees with dried elderberries for 9 months in oak.