As Eastern viticulture reemerged after Prohibition in the late 1960s, Norton and Cynthiana were mixed in vineyards and officially deemed as synonymous. -- Lucie Morton



The Norton grape was born in the vineyard of Dr. Daniel Norton around 1820 when he tried to pollinate the Bland grape with a Pinot Meunier. Instead a free-living V. aestivalis replaced the Burgundian grape as the pollinator. Since the Bland and the V. aestivalis gapes had some labrusca and vinifera in their DNA, the Norton grape is comprised of various percentages of V. labrusca, V. vinifera, and V. aestivalis.
Cynthiana was long thought to have originated in Arkansas, but Morton researched historical records that pinpoint the grapes origination in Red River, Ohio in the 1840s. At that time, Ohio was perhaps the leading grape growing region in the United States. The famed Prince Nursery in Flushing Long Island listed a variety called Red River in 1844 and in its 1858 catalogue changed the name to Cynthiana (Syn Red River). The Arkansas wine industry did not really take off until the 1870s. (Norton had been included in the Prince Nursery catalogue since 1822).
In Missouri, George Hussmann (considered a father of the Missouri wine industry) received cuttings of both Norton and Cynthiana and in 1859 wrote, "The Cynthiana (Red River) originated in Ohio; in appearance it is very much like the former (Norton); makes, however a wine of a lighter color..." And "U.P. Hedrick opined in The Grapes of New York (1908) that Norton and Cynthiana must be considered as distinct varieties." Thus, up until prohibition they were considered two separate grape varieties.
After Prohibition, both Norton and Cynthiana survived thanks to a single vineyard outside of Hermann, Missouri. While searching to bring Norton back to Stone Hill Winery, Jim Held heard of the Rauch Vineyard which had been planted with Norton before the Civil War. While visiting this vineyard a couple years ago and using ampelographic methodology, Morton and Volenberg determined that the vines were a mixture of both Norton and Cynthiana. Morton has also used this approach to determine that the apparent Norton grown at Virginia's Burnley Vineyards is actually Cynthiana. Detailed records showed that they had purchased the vines from Post Familie Vineyards in Arkansas. Morton repeated this exercise at Casanel Vineyards and with their team designated rows of both Norton and Cynthiana - which the winery had assumed was only Norton. And the Norton vines at both Horton Vineyards and Chrysalis Vineyards contains a mix of the Cynthiana vines that were found in the source vines from Horton via Hermann, Missouri.
What are the ampelographic differences between Norton and Cynthiana? The Norton leaf can resemble a "bat wing" through its lateral lobes and is longer than wider, thinner leaf veins, with triangular teeth. The Cynthiana leaf resembles a "spade-bit" through its lateral lobes and is wider than long, thicker leaf veins and round-based arches with tips for teeth. Its clusters contain larger and longer berries than Norton's and its smaller greener seeds cling to the pulp. Whereas with Norton, the seeds are larger and redder and do not cling to the pulp. See the companion image, but the last notable difference is that the dormant buds for Cynthiana are little triangles pointed to conical, whereas for Norton, they have a rounder base often compressed, obtuse to conical.