There is documented evidence that Gamay Noir has been planted in the Burgundy region since the 14th century. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, banned the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy because he felt it was inferior to Pinot Noir. Perhaps because DNA analysis shows that Gamay is an offspring of Pinot Noir and a white grape called Gouais Blanc. It was easier to grow than Pinot Noir and delivered larger yields, so local farmers preferred Gamay over Pinot Noir -- especially in Beaujolais.
Carbonic Maceration
Grapes are whole-bunch fermented in a sealed container which has been flushed with carbon dioxide, creating an anaerobic (oxygen-free) environment. Fermentation begins inside the still-whole berries, creating aromatic flavor compounds (phenols) not found in conventional fermentations. These compounds are responsible for the 'banana' and 'bubblegum' aromas associated with carbonically macerated wines. The technique produces wines which are fruitier and less tannic than those made from crushed grapes. Genuine, pure carbonic maceration is very hard to achieve, because the grapes at the bottom of the container typically split under the weight of the fruit above.
Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.
According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.
In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.
León (known until 2019 as Tierra de León) is a comparatively new D.O .wine region in northwestern Spain. The D.O. title covers over 3,000 square kilometers of gently undulating, fertile plateau just south of the eponymous city of León, below the Asturian mountains that line the northern border of the Castilla y León province."
At the Castilla y León Roadshow, I was able to sample one D.O. León Albarin wine from Bodegas Belote and one I.G.P. Castilla y León from Leyenda Del Páramo.
As I mentioned above, the El Aprendiz I.G.P. Castilla y León Blanco 2024 (100% Albarin Blanco) was the first wine I tasted and assumed to be Albariño. And even its profile reminded me of the Galician grape with strong floral and tropical notes and abundant acidity. More herbaceous than saline. The grapes are sourced from organic vineyards in the southern area of the province of León. The twenty+ year old vines grow in poor sandy loam texture soils and experience hot and dry summers. Cool nights help retain that acidity. A fantastic wine.
"Regenerative organic agriculture is a collection of practices that focus on regenerating soil health and the full farm ecosystem. In practice, regenerative organic agriculture can look like cover cropping, crop rotation, low- to no-till, compost, and zero use of persistent chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Layered into these practices, depending on a farm’s needs, could be the addition of perennials, development of pollinator and wildlife habitats, incorporation of agroforestry systems, vegetative barriers, and other regenerative practices that are shown to contribute to the development of soil organic matter."
The first tenant of regenerative farming is No-Till Farming. This method offers a range of benefits that can improve soil health, increase crop yields, reduce environmental impacts, and save farmers money. No-till farming educes soil erosion, preserves soil structure, increases soil organic matter, and reduces soil compaction, leading to better soil biological activity and improved soil health. Fields managed using no-till farming for multiple years have a higher water-holding capacity. And farmers benefit from reduces fuel and labor costs.
The next tenant of regenerative farming is Biodiversity through at least four plant groups. This process increases pollinator populations by providing diverse flower-rich habitats and reduced pesticide use support pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It enhances ecosystem services so that soil biota, decomposers, and predators work together to regulate pests and diseases, reducing the need for chemical controls. Biodiversity improves habitat connectivity as regenerative farms with diverse habitats and corridors can support wider species distributions and population growth. And is sequesters carbon as healthy soils and diverse ecosystems help sequester carbon, mitigating climate change and its impacts on biodiversity.
The Gaia Organic Malbec 2022 spends between eight and ten months in French oak providing complimentary vanilla tannins to the juicy ripe blackberry notes. This is an extremely approachable wine with a touch of spice to liven the glass.
The fourth tenant of regenerative farming is incorporating Animals as a key component to achieve the regenerative goals. This includes grazing management emphasizing rotational grazing, where animals are moved to different pastures to mimic natural grazing patterns. This approach promotes soil health, increases biodiversity, and sequesters carbon. Manure is used as a natural fertilizer, reducing the need for synthetic fertilizers and minimizing carbon emissions associated with their production and transportation. Animals like chickens, ducks, and geese can be used as natural pest managers, reducing the need for pesticides and promoting soil health. Holistic approach: Regenerative farming recognizes the interconnectedness of soil, plants, animals, and ecosystem services. By incorporating animals into the farming system, farmers can create a more resilient and diverse ecosystem.
Like the Malbec, the Gaia Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ages between eight and ten months in French oak. In contrast, there is more intense dark cherry notes with saline flowing through the soft finish.
The fifth and final tenant of regenerative farming is instituting Labor Practices that ensure sufficient wages and worker safety. Regenerative farmers prioritize fair labor practices, ensuring decent working conditions, safe working environments, and equitable compensation for farmworkers. Regenerative agriculture values the dignity and well-being of farmers and farmworkers, recognizing their importance in maintaining healthy ecosystems and producing nutritious food. Regenerative farms strive to provide comfortable and safe working conditions, including adequate shade, ventilation, and access to clean water and sanitation facilities. Regenerative farmers avoid using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers, reducing exposure risks for farmworkers and promoting a healthier environment. Regenerative agriculture often involves community-based approaches, fostering relationships between farmers, farmworkers, and local communities to promote social and environmental sustainability. Regenerative farmers invest in training and capacity-building programs for farmworkers, enhancing their skills and knowledge in sustainable agriculture practices. Regenerative practices like agroforestry, cover cropping, and crop rotation can reduce labor requirements, improving working conditions and reducing the risk of labor exploitation. Regenerative farmers prioritize continuous learning and improvement, adapting to changing environmental and social conditions while refining their labor practices to ensure long-term sustainability.
Other requirements include that the grapes in a Prosecco wine must be at least 85% Glera with the remaining 15% from other authorized grape varieties. Secondary fermentation can be achieved via the autoclave method or in the bottle ("Rifermentato in Bottiglia"). And finally labeling. Superiore refers to only Spumante wines made within the two DOCGs. Millesimato indicates a wine made from a single vintage (85% minimum). And Rive indicates a Prosecco Superiore made entirely of grapes from one of the designated Rive (villages).
As part of our $12.99 Challenge for the Effervescence Unleashed campaign, we stumbled upon this Villa Antica Asolo Prosecco Superiore DOCG for $8.99. From what we've learned the Glera grapes were grown in north central Veneto in the Asolo DOCG and the extra-dry designation means that there is 12-17 grams residual sugar. It comes across off-dry with tight bubbles with some almond mixed with creamy lemons. A nice value for a DOCG Prosecco.
Pair with Will There By Wine, a novel written by Whitney Cubbison and featured during the BevFluence book series held at the Chicago Speakeasy.
This past Saturday April 12th, I attended the Maryland Apple Blossom Cider & Mead Festival held at Linganore Winecellars. Please pay attention to the Mead in that title as there were many expressions available. There were also several whiskies available to sample courtesy of Pathfinder Farm Distillery. Plus dozens of ciders. Apologizes to Silver Wheel Cellars for not traying their meads and ciders because there was a persistent line in front of this producer.Starting with the meads we found a familiar options with Loew Vineyards and their assortment of cysers and pyments. Cysers are meads made with apple cider, whereas pyments (a subset of melomels - mead made with fruit) are meads made with grapes. My favorite was the Abba a blend of Polish style mead that was barrel aged for 18 months and a Vidal Blanc pyment that was barrel aged for 11 months. The Mechel is the cyser - a pleasant dry blend of local apple cider, wildflower and clover honey. I have a bottle of Honey & Grape (a semi-sweet pyment blend of Vidal Blanc, local clover and wildflower honey) cellaring for another year or two investigating if meads change over time.
Clear Skies Meadery's urban location entices it to create meads with multiple flavor profiles to encapsulate a cocktail culture. This starts with their flagship dry cider, Friending Fenrir, made from Orange Blossom honey. This base is then translated into multiple melomel expressions like the Twisted Oliver (blackberries) and Hades' Trick (pomegranate). They also produce Hydromel or "session" meads such as the Mojave Rose or Guava Mama. They also poured a popular cyser in the Adam's Fall (apple pie). I definitely preferred the Friending Fenrir plus their Fenrir's Reserve aged in oaken stout barrels.
At the Pathfinder Farm Distillery table I learned about their portfolio based upon Bloody Butcher Red Corn -- an heirloom variety of corn that has been grown in Appalachia since at least the mid-1800s. The corn is the base for the surprisingly smooth (at 100 proof) Bloody Butcher 100% Red Corn Whiskey. They then saturate this moonshine into a plethora of fruits with an Apple Pie, Blueberry, and Orange Cranberry expressions. They also produce two aged whiskies starting with the Daily Driver Whiskey with a mash bill of 15% malted barley and 85% Bloody Butcher non-GMO red corn. Then there's the Bloody Butcher Bourbon made from 100% red corn. A very unique whiskey to add to the collection.
Willow Oaks Craft Cider is based in a 38-year-old family farm and orchard located in the Middletown Valley at the foothills of the Catoctin Mountain. They were the first organic orchard on the East Coast and their farmhouse styles ciders date back to the cider preferences of some of America's Founding Fathers. The Gloaming, a delicious blend of organic apples and organic black currants, is a favorite - tart for sure, but also dry, fruity, and refreshing. They also offer the Integritas RGB series - ciders aged in rye, bourbon, or gin barrels. The Bourbon offers plenty of vanilla and creaminess.
Doc Waters Cidery produces one of our favorite Maryland pomme and perry products, the Lady Kay Perry. Although they weren't pouring this perry at the festival, there will be plenty available in the tasting room very soon. On a sour note, last week's freeze most likely destroyed their pear crop for 2025. The challenges of farming. I did savor their flagship Orchard Blend Carbonated Cider. This is a consistent crowd pleaser.
Brothers Ridge Cider is located practically due north of Linganore and poured their core set of expressions: Pippin, Wildling, and Sapling plus a barrel aged Granny Smith (aged for 6 months in Sagamore Rye Whiskey barrels) -- all fermented naturally. I'm always surprised how well the Granny Smith works in cider apples - particularly when pairing with spicy foods. I had also assumed that the Pippin was a single varietal but it is a blend with plenty of complexity for a dry cider. The off-dry Wildling was also very nice - a touch of sweetness to balance the tartness and acidity.
Pub Dog operates three brewpubs in Maryland and unbeknownst to me they also offer a couple ciders at each location. I went with the Pub Dog Hard Cider and this is a refreshing cider leaning on the sweeter side
I finally get to our host, Red Shedman Farm Brewery, which tragically burned to the ground last September. They have been operating steps away at Linganore Winecellars in temporary housing. I've always enjoyed their beer portfolio over the cider because they do lean very heavily on the sweet scale. That being said the Classic Apple Sweet Hard Cider is well made and proportioned. I think adding some dry Vermouth would click. Or wash down with the Cool Kidz Kolsch.
Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.
According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.
Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.
León (known until 2019 as Tierra de León) is a comparatively new D.O .wine region in northwestern Spain. The D.O. title covers over 3,000 square kilometers of gently undulating, fertile plateau just south of the eponymous city of León, below the Asturian mountains that line the northern border of the Castilla y León province."
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| Prieto Picudo Cluster |
The grape is known for its tight clusters and oval-shaped berries that taper at the end, giving it its name, which translates to "dark beaked cluster". This grape produces deeply colored red wines with a clean acidity and high levels of sugar and tannin, giving the wines a unique character and taste. Prieto Picudo wines often exhibit flavors of redcurrant, blackberry, and licorice, and may have mineral notes, as well as vanilla and toast where oak has been used in the winemaking process.
Leyenda del Páramo was launched in 2010 to focus specifically on Prieto Picudo and a future Grape Spotlight topic, Albarin. One of the founding partners, Pedro González Mittelbrunn, is a defender of the Prieto Picudo within the appellation of origin. The Paramo region is located in southern León and a pertinent feature is the cave system and underground cellars mentioned above. "Inside these caves, with the low temperatures of the subsoil, an ideal micro-climate is formed for the production of the famous Prieto Picudo wines." Their vineyards are located in a landscape called "El Páramo", located in the northern section of the Duero river basin and, like Belote, at 900 meters. They are flat, poor soils with a large amount of boulders, old fluvial terraces of the Esla and Bernesga rivers.
At the Roadshow, I started with the Flor del Páramo I.G.P. Castilla y León 2023 Red -- 100% Prieto Picudo and a pure expression of the fruit. No oak, just juicy fruit. This is their best international seller and I can see why. Easy drinking and maybe serve slightly chilled. Second, was the El Aprendiz I.G.P. Castilla y León 2021 Red -- 100% Prieto Picudo aged for a minimum of 6 months in fourth and fifth use American and French oak barrels. Plenty of approachable tannins and abundant acidity with dark cherries throughout. I concluded with the El Médico I.G.P. Castilla y León 2016 Red is made from 100% Prieto Picudo grapes from vineyards over 60 years old. It is aged for a minimum of nine months in French (75%) and American (25%) oak barrels. Almost a decade old and as fresh as a more recent vintage with lively acidity and velvety fruit.
Cheers.
As Eastern viticulture reemerged after Prohibition in the late 1960s, Norton and Cynthiana were mixed in vineyards and officially deemed as synonymous. -- Lucie Morton
With the return of the Norton and Cynthiana grapes post-prohibition in Missouri, Virginia, Arkansas (courtesy of Stone Hill Winery in Missouri, Horton Vineyards in Virginia, and Post Familie Vineyards in Arkansas) the common perception was that the two grapes were either clones or synonyms. Modern genetic data based on single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNP’s) could not distinguish Norton from Cynthiana as a phylogenetic tree constructed based on 1.2 million SNP’s could not differentiate Norton from Cynthiana. 
Yet, independent viticulturist Lucie Morton strongly disagrees that they are the same cultivar and by using Ampelography -- the study of a grape in terms of its historical record and physical characteristics in terms of leaf, cluster, berry and seed shape -- she asserts that the two grape varieties are completely different cultivars. At the 2025 Eastern Winery Exposition she presented this hypothesis through an analysis she conducted with Dean Volenberg (viticulture and winery operations specialist at the University of Missouri) and Diego Berrios Galaz - winemaker at Virginia's Casanel Vineyards. The results are also available in the March 2025 edition of Wine Business Monthly. I sure wish this presentation or the companion article were available before my Norton seminar at the February BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy. The rest of this post merges information from the presentation and the Grape Sleuthing Through History WBM article. 
The Norton grape was born in the vineyard of Dr. Daniel Norton around 1820 when he tried to pollinate the Bland grape with Pinot Meunier. Instead a free-living V. aestivalis replaced the Burgundian grape as the pollinator. Since the Bland and the V. aestivalis gapes had some labrusca and vinifera in their DNA, the Norton grape is comprised of various percentages of V. labrusca, V. vinifera, and V. aestivalis.
Cynthiana was long thought to have originated in Arkansas, but Morton researched historical records that pinpoint the grapes origination in Red River, Ohio in the 1840s. At that time, Ohio was the leading grape growing region in the United States. The famed Prince Nursery in Flushing Long Island listed a variety called Red River in 1844 and in its 1858 catalogue changed the name to Cynthiana (Syn Red River). The Arkansas wine industry did not really take off until the 1870s. (Norton had been included in the Prince Nursery catalogue since 1822).
In Missouri, George Hussmann (considered a father of the Missouri wine industry) received cuttings of both Norton and Cynthiana and in 1859 wrote, "The Cynthiana (Red River) originated in Ohio; in appearance it is very much like the former (Norton); makes, however a wine of a lighter color..." And "U.P. Hedrick opined in The Grapes of New York (1908) that Norton and Cynthiana must be considered as distinct varieties." Thus, up until prohibition they were considered two separate grape varieties".
What are the ampelographic differences between Norton and Cynthiana? The Norton leaf can resemble a "bat wing" through its lateral lobes and is longer than wider, thinner leaf veins, with triangular teeth. The Cynthiana leaf resembles a "spade-bit" through its lateral lobes and is wider than long, thicker leaf veins and round-based arches with tips for teeth. Its clusters contain larger and longer berries than Norton's and its smaller greener seeds cling to the pulp. Whereas with Norton, the seeds are larger and redder and do not cling to the pulp. See the companion image, but the last notable difference is that the dormant buds for Cynthiana are little triangles pointed to conical, whereas for Norton, they have a rounder base often compressed, obtuse to conical. See images below. 
Ingredients
Ducard Vineyards opened 15 years ago and their estate is located in a beautiful valley on the eastern edge of the Shenandoah National Park in the shadow of Old Rag Mountain and White Oak Canyon. The 2021 XOXO Sparkling Viognier or Hugs and Kisses sparkling wine is made from 100% Viognier from the TANA vineyard where the wine is aged two years on its lees. This leads to noticeable yeast, but an elegant display of subtle stone fruit and a lasting finish.
In 2019 Golden Moon Distillery was awarded the American Distilling Institute’s 2019 Distillery of the Year Award and the distillery was known for offering a rather rare and remarkable range of spirits. In fact, founders Stephen Gould and Karen Knight opened the distillery in order to recreate lost recipes -- particularly those from the late 1700s to the early 1900s. Unfortunately Golden Moon Distillery closed in May 2024 but BookCliff Vineyards where the pomace was sourced is still operating with two locations, the winery in Boulder and the vineyards in Palisades.
The Bayou Rum Distillery is located about an hour west of Lafayette and was instituted to bring Louisiana rum to the world. From the outset, production has been managed by Cuban born and second-generation rum maker Reiniel Vicente Diaz. His father Omar Vicente was Master Blender of a Cuban rum distillery for 15 years before relocating to the Dominican Republic where the younger Reiniel worked alongside him at the Oliver & Oliver rum company. The Louisiana Spirits Satsuma Rum Liqueur is crafted from locally sourced Satsuma tangerines and barrel-aged rum made from local sugar cane.
The grapes from which the vins de base for Crémant de Bourgogne are made come from a wide variety of soils in vineyard districts throughout Bourgogne. They range from the chalky subsoil of the Joigny district in the north to the granites of southern Bourgogne, via the limestones and marls of the Côtes where most of the wines of this appellation are grown. The primary grape varieties are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (minimum 30%) with secondary varieties: Gamay (20% maximum), Aligoté, Melon, Sacy. Aligoté is a white grape variety known for its high acidity and is often used in blends to add structure and freshness. The Melon grape, also known as Melon de Bourgogne, is a variety of white grape primarily grown in the Loire Valley and is known for producing lean, mineral, and saline-driven white wines. Sacy is a light-skinned grape variety grown in the Yonne department in the far north of Burgundy.
This La Burgondie Brut Rosé ($12) was purchased at Trader Joes for an under $12.99 Sparkling buy and is composed of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Gamay. It is dry, but comes across sweeter with the abundance of strawberry flavor and minor minerality. We paired the sparkling rosé with The Winemakers, a book written by Jan Moran and featured during the BevFluence book series held at the Chicago Speakeasy. The love story and part-thriller is a good read, even for the less romantically inclined, and highlights winemaking in Napa Valley and Montalcino, Italy, with a side note to Bordeaux, France.
Happy sipping and reading.
(1) The traditional method, also known as méthode traditionnelle, is a process used to produce high-end sparkling wines. This method involves a second fermentation that occurs in the bottle, which is where the wine gets its bubbles. After the initial fermentation, the base wine is blended, and a small amount of sugar and yeast is added to each bottle. The bottles are then sealed and stored horizontally in a wine cellar to undergo the secondary fermentation. During this process, carbon dioxide is trapped in the bottle, creating the bubbles characteristic of sparkling wine.
After the secondary fermentation, the bottles are gradually tilted to an upside-down position and rotated slightly each day in a process called riddling. This helps to collect the sediment, or lees, in the neck of the bottle. The neck of the bottle is then frozen, and the cap is removed, ejecting the frozen sediment in a process called disgorgement. Immediately after disgorging, the bottle is topped up with a mixture of sugar and wine, known as the dosage, to adjust the sweetness level of the wine before it is corked and sealed.
“Our vision is to create a network of global wine region partners who share the same ideals and values, who share the same struggles that we all endure, but coming together to trade ideas, tips and tricks, secrets of how we do our business, sharing with each other.”, David Haubert, D1 Supervisor County of Almeda
“On behalf of the entire Livermore Valley Wine Community, we are proud to lead the efforts to establish The Global Artisan Vintners Alliance,” said Brandi Lombardi, Executive Director for the Livermore Valley Wine Community. “As one of the oldest wine regions in California, Livermore Valley has a rich history of winemaking tradition side by side with new winemakers and new techniques. This alliance will allow all partner regions to work together and expand opportunities for their winemakers and wineries as well as enhance tourism to their respective parts of the globe.”
The Global AVA will promote collaboration and exchange of information between winemakers, wine associations, government representatives, tourism and economic development organizations, and business associations. Representatives of the partner wine regions will actively participate in professional development opportunities through discussions about winemaking techniques and sustainability methods, student and professional intern exchanges, and sharing of best practices around economic development, agri-tourism and marketing initiatives to elevate the global presence of the participating wine region, among other opportunities.
“I envisioned creating a network of global wine region partners, and I’m thrilled to see this come to life through the hard work of my team and the Livermore Valley Winegrowers Association,” said David Haubert, Alameda County, District 1 Supervisor. “This Alliance will bring great value and innovation, and I’m excited to be part of this trailblazing group of industry leaders.”
The BevFluence team participated in a media zoom session discussing the formation of this alliance. The meeting started with welcome remarks by Lindsey Knight, the Global AVA Coordinator; followed by the vision and background of the forming of the Global AVA provided by David Haubert, Alameda County, District 1 Supervisor. Brandi Lombardi, Executive Director of the Livermore Valley Wine Community, CA gave additional information about the Livermore Valley wine region and the Global AVA; followed by a representative of each sister wine region introducing their organization and wine region.
One event that is on our radar will be the inaugural in-person Global AVA summit to be held Livermore, California sometime in 2025. We will post when more information becomes available.
Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for March: Mardi Gras Old Cuban
Capstone Vineyards Sparkling Chardonnay
Wildcat Brothers Distilling Noire Rum
Recipe:
Wildcat Brothers Distilling is located in Lafayette, Louisiana and uses local sugarcane to produce smooth and unique French-style rums. According to the distillery, "Bourbon enthusiasts will appreciate the full-bodied flavor that our maturation journey produces."
During the 2025 BevFluence Chicago Speakeasy I presented "The Story of Norton", a seminar that described the history of America's Grape - starting with the 1873 Best Red of All Nations award in Vienna, Austria. During the presentation, I poured four Norton wines, two from Missouri and the other from Virginia. After the presentation, attendees poured samples from a number available Norton wines that had been opened during the previous night's Norton Wine Dinner for industry professionals.
The attendees started with a glass of the 2022 Stone Hill Cross J Norton. The winemaker at Stone Hill Winery, Nathan Held, asked that I relay that he feels this is a great representation of what a young Norton wine should taste. I mentioned that inexperienced winemakers can produce a Norton that is astringent and too acidic, whereas this wine exhibited a spicy nose with tart plums and black cherries with subtle earthiness and spice.
Back to our story.
I discussed the preponderance of German settlers to the Midwest between 1827 and 1856 and how Hermann Missouri was created specifically for German immigrants. And grape growing was a popular endeavor. By 1847 there were 28 vine growers in Hermann with one being Michael Poeschel started making wine using Catawba and Isabella - two Vitis labrusca grapes. Soon he partnered with another German, John Scherer, to form Poeschel & Scherer.
In the 1850s, under the leadership of George Hussmann, Norton was recommended and Hussmann distributed cuttings and by 1858 Princes Nursery (Flushing, New York) shipped the first documented instance of Norton vines to Hermann. Norton and Cynthiana were quickly adopted by Poeschel & Scherer. The winery was renamed Stone Hill Wine Co. Over time successful salesmen turned business partners William Herzog and George Stark helped grow the winery to become the second-largest winery in the country. Winning top honors in 8 World’s Expos between 1873 and 1915, the winery gained international prominence in the world of wine. But there were stormy clouds on the horizon.
The attendees then sampled the 2018 Stone Hill Winery Old Vine Reserve Norton. The grapes come from a tiny 1/4 acre vineyard of Norton grapevines that were planted in 1863, during the Civil War. According to the winery, "once in a great while the shy bearing Ancient Vines produce enough grapes for a barrel or two of Norton Wine". The wine was aged two years in French oak and shows more roundness plus hints of chocolate and more mature dark fruit. But still plenty of lively acidity.
Back to our story.
With World War I came anti-German sentiment, which hurt the traditionally German alcohol industry in Missouri, slowing growth. With the end of the war, the temperance movement started to dominate politics and eventually succeeded with Prohibition being ratified in 1919 and enacted in 1920. George Stark’s sons were forced to shutter the winery and order the vineyards to be destroyed. In 1923, the cellars were transformed into a mushroom farm which would continue under Bill and Mary Harrison until wine could once again find a home in their halls.
The attendees then sampled the Bluemont Vineyard 2020 Norton Reserve. I wanted to show another younger Norton and stressed the noticeable difference with the Stone Hill Cross J Norton. It was livelier with more spices, bubbly sour cherries, and noticeable tannins.
Back to our story.
Norton or Vitis Aestivalis is a native North American grape officially discovered in 1823 by Dr. Daniel Norborne Norton (1794-1842), a physician from Richmond. After his first wife died during childbirth he turned to cultivating new grapes (27 in total) in a small plot of land known as Magnolia Farm - northwest of Richmond. Even though Jefferson was never successful in finding a wine grape suitable to the Virginia climate, he may have inspired Dr. Norton's new endeavor. There are saved correspondence between Dr. Norton and Jefferson's chief grape grower. But fortune is odd. The Norton grape was not created intentionally, but resulted as a chance of nature through open pollination. Initially it was thought to be a natural cross between Pinot Meunier and a now extinct hybrid known as Bland. What is known for sure is that the male parent, was a wild vine of Vitis aestivalis.
The final wines that the participants sipped were the Horton Vineyards 1995 and 1999 Horton Norton - library wines intended to demonstrate the age ability of Norton wine. The grapes inherent acidity helps elevate the finish even as the wine passed almost three decades in the bottle. In addition the wines show jammy - yet velvety layers - of dark fruit and chocolate.
Post prohibition, the Virginia wine industry was slow to materialize and one of the pioneers was Dennis Horton. A native of Missouri, he started an office supply business in the metro D.C. region all the while planting a few vines at a small home vineyard in Madison County, Virginia in 1983. In the late 1980s, Horton and a business partner acquired 55 acres for the beginning of Horton Vineyards. Rhone grape varieties were his favorite options but he was familiar with the Norton grape from growing up in Hermann and knowing the grape's Virginia roots. He thus contacted Jon Held and obtained a shipment of Norton vines from Stone Hill Winery -- reintroducing the Norton grape to the Commonwealth with their inaugural vintage in 1992. The grape loves the Virginia climate. And the Horton library wines represent wines made from these Stone Hill cuttings. Today there are over 20 wineries producing a Norton wine in Virginia and the have joined together to form the Norton Network in order to promote the grape. Thanks to Dennis Horton this is possible along with the world's largest grower of Norton - Chrysalis Vineyards.
