Gambero Rosso's Vini D’Italia 2025 Roadshow

On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide.

The masterclass focused on Pecorino within several different regulatory zones: IGT Pecorino, Abruzzo DOC Pecorino, Colline Pescaresi, and the Tullum DOCG. The wines shared a persistent floral character, and fabulous acidity, while alternating between citrus and tropical fruits. My favorites of the nine featured were the Cascina Del Colle Terre Di Chieti Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore Aimè 2023 and the Cantina Tollo Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  The latter is comprised of 100% organically grown Pecorino that was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity.  The Aimè is farmed organically and is profoundly more fruit forward with strong ripe peaches and tropical notes. That profile is balanced by lively minerality. Two fantastic wines. 

Moving into the Embassy's atrium and the walkaround tasting I focused on two regions: Puglia and Lazio. I started with Amastuola, a wine resort and farm located just north of Taranto where they organically farm ten grape varieties. By design, the 100 hectare estate "brings together the two concepts of functionality and aesthetics. The rows of vines were planted on the basis of the design conceived by the great landscape designer Fernando Caruncho. The vine spaliers draw harmonious parallel waves that follow each other for about 3 km. " Their IGP Puglia Bialento di Amastuola 2024 is a blend of Malvasia and Fiano and provides fresh pears, white grapefruit, and herbaceous notes. The IGP Puglia Primitivo di Amastuola 2021 is full bodied dark fruit with layers of light spices and juicy tannins.  Then there's  Negroamaro - a favorite Puglia grape - and their IGP Puglia Negroamaro di Amastuola 2021 shows luscious soft fruit  and a juicy spiced finish. 

Masca del Tacco is located in the cultural heart of central-northern Salento with 200 hectares of vines within a triangle of Brindisi, Taranto and Lecce. They farm Negroamaro, Primitivo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fiano, and the Brindisi based Masseria Paticchi vineyard contains the regal Susumaniello grape. They poured a very delicious and surprisingly mineral laden Susumaniello Rosato 2024 and well as the full bodied Susumaniello 2023 with its layers of fresh and inviting fruit.  

From Lazio and just southeast of Rome, Colle di Maggio introduced us to the indigenous Bombino Blanco grape which they grow in volcanic soils along with Fiano, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. These vines are over 50 years old, are planted 150-200 meters above sea level, and benefit from their proximity to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Bombino Blanca is a late ripening variety and disease tolerant grape primarily used in blends and the Sirio Lazio Bianco IGP is a delicious combination of Chardonnay and Bombino. They release another excellent Chardonnay blend in the Lunapigra Lazio Bianco IGP -- this time paired with Fiano. 

Located a little closer to the sea, Casale del Giglio was a most pleasant surprise. The winery started as a small family venture in 1967 then expanded in 1985 with the planting of an experimental vineyard of 60 different vines. This translates today to a large portfolio of a dozen flagship grape varieties, with two very intriguing options: Viognier and Bellone. The Lazio IGP Blanco Viognier is a very rare sighting of this Rhone grape in the Italian landscape and provides full fruit - with layers of peaches and apricots. The Lazio IGP Blanco Bellone shows that this ancient (once sited by Pliny the Elder) and drought resistant grape thrives in the sandy soils close to the sea. The wine shows tropical fruit and fresh acidity that is extremely quaffable. This is one to seek. 

Grape Spotlight: Castilla y León D.O. Bierzo Mencia

Mencia is to D.O. Bierzo what the Prieto Picudo and Albarin grapes are to D.O. León. A subregion within Castilla y León primarily dedicated to an historic and signature grape. 

Castilla y León is located in northwestern Spain between Galicia & Portugal and Rioja and is that country's largest wine-producing region -- encompassing 6% of Spain's total production. It is also the 4th largest Spanish grape growing region and home to over 500 wineries. The region contains 14 Designations of Origin (D.O.), four Protected Designations of Origin, and the Vino de la Terra de Castilla y León Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P.). Castilla y León came into administrative existence in 1983, when the two historical provinces of León and Castilla la Vieja were unified.

According to wine-searcher.com, "Castilla y León's rich cultural history dates back more than two thousand years, as evidenced by its six Unesco world heritage sites. These include the medieval city walls of Avila, the Roman Aqueduct in Segovia, and Atapuerca, an archaeological site rich in Bronze Age and Stone Age artifacts. It may be that wine production in the region pre-dates even the Roman occupation, which began in the 1st Century BC.

In terms of climate, Castilla y León has a remarkably strong continental feel, given how close it comes to the Atlantic Ocean. Hot, dry summers here are followed by sharp, cold winters, when temperatures regularly drop well below freezing. Diurnal temperature shifts are equally pronounced, and play a vital part in the local wine styles. Cool nights refresh the vineyards after long, hot days. The area is completely shielded from the  maritime influence of the Bay of Biscay by the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range. On the other side of these mountains lie the Asturias, Cantabria and Pais Vasco regions. Their cool, fresh climates and fertile hills are in stark contrast to the warm, dry tablelands of Castilla y León.

Wedged between the Cordillera Cantábrica and the Sistema Central mountains, the region occupies a vast plateau about 200km (125 miles) across and between 700 and 1000 meters (2,300ft - 3,300ft) above sea level. Given this location and the low rainfall, soils here are typically thin and poor. They do become richer in minerals and clays, however, near the region's rivers, of which there are many.

D.O. Bierzo lies in the far northwest of Castilla y Leon close to the region's borders with Galicia.  The viticultural area consists of two parts: Bierzo Alto (high Bierzo), a mineral-rich and mountainous terrain where terraced vineyards are sewn into the slopes, and Bierzo Bajo (low Bierzo), a wide and verdant plain. Bierzo's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean has a profound effect on its overall climate, with average temperatures during the growing season much cooler than in Castilla y Leon's more inland areas, making it rather mild. Nevertheless, the Cordillera Cantábrica mountain range in the north provides the vineyards with adequate shelter. This ensures that the Mencia grapes achieve optimum ripeness. 

Bierzo's soil is different from that found in other parts of Castilla y Leon in that it contains a predominance of slate and granite. This favors the Mencia vines and helps them to produce wines with a distinct mineral character. The wines tend to be lighter in terms of alcohol and more refreshing than those from other parts of Castilla y León.

Mencia is a thick-skinned, violet-blue grape that was once thought to be related to Cabernet Franc. Modern DNA testing has disproved this theory, however, but has uncovered that it is genetically identical to Portugal's Jaen." It's its origin Bierzo or Dão?

"Mencia wines tend to exhibit earthy, vegetal characters with berry nuances and stony minerality. They have a bright complexion with a vivid maroon color, relatively fresh acidity and tannins. The fruit flavors can range from red to black fruits, often with a herbal dimension of mint or thyme. The variety can be challenging in the vineyard, and has a tendency towards low yields, making it a challenging prospect for growers and winemakers. It is susceptible to botrytis and mildew, and can lose its acidity quickly if not harvested promptly. Mencia's high alcohol and moderate acidity provide something of a juggling act at harvest and in the winery. Oak is used sparingly, as it can overwhelm Mencia's rather delicate flavor profile."

At the Castilla y León Roadshow, I sampled several Mencia wines from two producers who focus almost exclusively on this grape. Elva Garcia Amigo was onsite representing her winery -- Aníbal de Otero (Daughter of Anibal) -- named in honor of her father.  Aníbal and his father tended their Mencia vines which  are now more than 100 years old. The process is overseen by oenologist José Hidalgo where the grapes are hand harvested in small batches, fermented in stainless steel and aged at various lengths in French oak.  In the vineyard they practice sustainable practices where aromatic plants, wild oregano, thyme, and chamomile grow wild as cover crops. 

Anibal de Otero Mencía, D.O. Bierzo 2022 
Made exclusively with Mencía grapes from bush-ripened vines with an average age of over 90 years. Located near the village of Otero de Toral, on a steep, high altitude of 500-600 meters with clay, sand, slate, and pebbles. The grapes are naturally fermented in stainless steel tanks. The wine is aged three months in used 225-liter French oak barrels, then 8-10 months in stainless steel tanks before bottling, and bottle ageing for at least 6 months.  This is a fresh and pleasant Mencia with abundant red fruit and juicy acidity. 

Anibal de Otero Villa, D.O. Bierzo 2018
The grapes are from the same 90+ year old vines as the Anibal de Otero Mencía but the best grapes are separated and used for the Villa. Similar fermentation process, but longer aging with six months in used 225-liter French oak barrels and at least 18 months in the bottle. More velvety texture surrounds the red fruit and balanced tannins leading to bright acids. 

Anibal de Otero Los Fornos, D.O. Bierzo 2016
The grapes are harvested from very small plots in the exclusive Los Fornos area. The vineyard is south-facing, on a slope overlooking the valley where the Burbia and Cúa rivers meet the Sil where the soils are dominated by limestone and slate.  The wine follows a similar fermentation process but the aging is extensive. It involves 18 months in new and used 225-liter French oak barrels then bottle aged for at least 36 months. This a complex and wonderful wine - darker fruit, more approachable tannins, and tasty earthiness. 

Cantariña Vinos de Familia is another small winery started by five siblings cultivating 13 Ha of 100 year old family vineyards divided among three different sites in their Villafranca del Bierzo hometown.  The first is Viña de Los Pinos, one of the most iconic and photographed vineyards in Bierzo. It sits by the Camino de la Virgen, a narrow dirt path transited by thousands of Pilgrims each year on their way to Santiago de Compostela. The second and older site is Valdeobispo and the third and newest site is Cotelo, where parts had been abandoned for 20 years. Valdeobispo was first planted in 1910 and considered one of the grand crús in Bierzo. The soils are clay and sand with limestone and rolling stones. 

Cantariña Villafranca, D.O. Bierzo 2022
This wine is practically 100% Mencia with trace amounts of Palomino, Doña Blanca and Godello in a field blend from the  Viña de Los Pinos and Valdeobispo sites. The grapes are naturally fermented in 5000 liter oak vats with partial use of whole cluster.  The wine is then aged in oak vats and used 225 and 500 liter French oak barrels. Fresh red fruit characterizes this wine with subtle spice and earthiness. 

Cantariña Valdeobispo, D.O. Bierzo 2021
This is 100% Mencia from the the iconic and organic Valdeobispo site. The grapes are fermented in an 50 HL oak vat, whole clustered, the aged 12 months in used 225 and 500 liter French oak casks. This wine has an astonishing vibrant mouthfeel, lively tannins and acidity distributing velvety dark fruit most notably blackberries.

Effervescence Unleashed: What is Champagne?

Champagne is a sparkling wine that is exclusively produced in the Appellation d’Origine Controlee area of Champagne, France and made using the traditional method known as the Méthode Champenoise. This method involves a secondary fermentation in the bottle, which creates the bubbles that are characteristic of Champagne. While the term "Champagne" is often used generically to describe sparkling wines, legally and technically, only those produced in this specific region under strict guidelines can bear the name. In short, Champagne is more than just sparkling wine—it's a protected cultural and agricultural product that reflects the tradition and terroir of its region.

Origin and Terroir

The Champagne region, located about 100 miles northeast of Paris, has a cool climate and chalky soils that are ideal for growing grapes with high acidity—a key trait for sparkling wines.  In this kind of cool climate, the growing season is rarely warm enough to ripen grapes to the levels required for standard winemaking.  The landscape that earned Champagne its name (it roughly translates as "open countryside") suggests very gently over the white, calcareous soils of the Paris Basin. 

This famous chalk is distinct from the limestone soils of other French wine regions, being much finer-grained and more porous. This looser structure means that its mineral content is more readily absorbed by the vine roots, and it also provides excellent drainage – avoiding the risks of waterlogging. A further benefit is that this permeability allows access to the water resources far below, promoting strong root development and ensuring a continuous water supply.

The Champagne wine region is divided into five sub-regions: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and Côte des Bar.

1. Montagne de Reims: Known for its chalky limestone soil and home to Reims and Epernay, it is the largest sub-region with the most Grand Cru villages.
2. Vallée de la Marne: Located between the Marne River and the Côte des Blancs, it is the second-largest sub-region.
3. Côte des Blancs: Specializes in white grapes and is known for its chalky-limestone soils.
4. Côte de Sézanne: A smaller sub-region known for its diversity of soil types.
5. Côte des Bar (Aube): The southernmost sub-region, it is known for its red and rosé Champagnes.

Grape Varieties

Champagne is typically made from three primary grape varieties:

• Chardonnay 
• Pinot Noir 
• Pinot Meunier 

These grapes may be used alone or blended in various proportions to create different styles and flavor profiles.

Production Method

Champagne is made using the Méthode Champenoise, or traditional method, which involves a second fermentation in the bottle. This process creates the fine bubbles that characterize Champagne. The steps include:

1. Primary Fermentation – Refers to the initial fermentation process where grape juice is transformed into a still wine. During this stage, yeast converts the natural sugars in the grape juice into alcohol and carbon dioxide, resulting in a dry wine with high acidity. This fermentation can take place in various containers, such as stainless steel tanks or oak barrels, though stainless steel is more commonly used.
   
   
2. Blending – The blending process aims for consistency for non-vintage Champagne by combining wines from different grape varieties and different vineyard plots, along with reserve wines from previous years. Non-vintage Champagne typically blends wines from three to five different vintages.
   
   
3. Second Fermentation – A liqueur de tirage (wine, sugar, and yeast) is added to the wine before bottling. The amount of sugar in the liqueur de tirage determines the pressure of carbonation in the bottle.
   
   
4. Aging on Lees – Once the yeast have finished converting the sugar into alcohol and carbon dioxide, they die and become lees. The lees remain in contact with the wine, imbuing it with autolytic aromas (or aromas from lees-aging), which add layers of complexity.
   
   
5. Riddling and Disgorgement – In order to ensure the clarity and quality of the Champagne, the lees must be removed. The bottles are tilted at an angle downward so that the lees settle into bottle's neck. The bottles are occasionally turned or riddled so that the sediment does not remain on one side of the bottle. The sediment is then removed through disgorgement where the bottle's neck is frozen and when the temporary cap is removed, the pressure in the bottle forces the sediment out.
   
   
6. Dosage – Before final corking, a small amount of sugar wine(liqueur d’expedition) is added to balance the naturally high acidity of the wine and determine its sweetness level. 

Styles of Champagne

• Brut Nature – Also known as Zero Dosage, is a type of Champagne with a very low sugar content, typically between 0 and 3 grams per liter. This designation allows the true flavors of the grapes and the terroir to be fully expressed, as no additional sugar is added after the second fermentation. The term "Brut Nature" comes from the fact that the only sugar present is the natural sugar in the grapes.
  
  
• Brut – The most common style, Brut Champagne has a sugar content typically less than 12 grams per liter. The term "Brut" originated in the early 19th century when Champagne producers began experimenting with lower sugar levels in their wines. 
  
  
• Extra Dry – Refers to a champagne that is slightly sweet rather than dry. It has a sugar content ranging from 12 to 17 grams per liter.
  
  
• Demi-Sec – A sweet style of Champagne that contains between 32 and 50 grams of sugar per liter, often paired with desserts.
  
  
• Rosé Champagne – The pink color of Champagne Rosé is achieved through specific winemaking techniques involving red grapes, such as the blending method (assemblage) and the saignée method.  The blending method involves adding a small amount of red wine to the base white wine before the second fermentation, while the saignée method involves a short maceration of red grapes to extract color and aromas.  Champagne Rosé has a history dating back to the 17th century.
  
  
• Blanc de Blancs – Blanc de Blancs is a term used for Champagne made exclusively from white grape varieties, typically Chardonnay. The name translates to "white from whites" in French, indicating that the wine is made solely from white grapes.  In the Champagne region, Blanc de Blancs are mainly produced in the Côte des Blancs area, known for its chalky terroir which is ideal for growing Chardonnay.
  
  
• Blanc de Noirs – Blanc de Noirs is a term used for white Champagne made from the juice of black-skinned grapes, such as Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. The name literally means "white from blacks" in French, indicating that the wine is produced from dark-skinned grapes. During the winemaking process, the contact between the juice and the skins is minimized to prevent the juice from taking on color from the skins, resulting in a white wine despite the use of red grapes.

Learn more about the BevFluence Effervescence Unleashed campaign here. 

Grape Spotlight: Abruzzo's Tullum DOCG Pecorino

The Tullum DOCG is one of Italy's smallest and newest DOCGs -- becoming that country's 75th DOCG in 2019.  The DOCG is confined to the Tollo municipality, in the province of Chieti, in Abruzzo. Tullum was also the first local DOP (Protected Denomination of Origin) in Abruzzo -- created in 2008.  The Tullum DOCG is also unique in that it involves only three wine producers (Feudo Antico CTSCA, Vigneti Radica, and Cantina Coltivatori Diretti Tollo CCDD) and only 18 hectares (44.5 acres) of vines. The Tullum vineyards are located a few kilometers inland from the Adriatic, about halfway up the coast of Abruzzo. The DOCG zone is an area of rolling green hills and forested ridges leading down to the sea. The primary grape varieties permitted are Montepulciano, Passerina, or Pecorino. To learn more about the Pecorino gape, please see our previous Grape Spotlight posts. 

According to the Consortium, "the Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin 'Terre Tollesi' or 'Tullum' is only granted to wines meeting the conditions and requirements regulated by law. Regulations sets out the details of the winemaking and labelling standards that include a low-yield production, the exclusive use of native vine varieties, and cellar practices respectful of the quality of the product. Tullum introduces for the first time the concept of single vineyards cru. Regulations identify which vine varieties are allowed on the specific single plot. Grapes, with the exception of vineyards located at an altitude of less than 80 m above sea level, must be harvested, vinified, and bottled within the same production area. The planting density must not be lower than 1.600 plants per hectare for the pergola abruzzese system, and lower than 4.000 plants per hectare for vine rows. "

On April 30th, Gambero Rosso, Italy's premier food and wine media group, returned to Washington DC celebrating the Vini D’Italia 2025 guidebook! The event featured a walk around tasting of hundreds of Italy’s top Italian wines representing a fraction of the 2,600 wineries and more than 25,000 wines reviewed by the guidebook's experts. As part of the event, Gambero Rosso also hosted a Wines of Abruzzo masterclass in partnership with wines of Consorzio Tutela Vini D'Abruzzo and led by Marco Sabellico, the Editor-In-Chief of the Vini D’Italia 2025 guide. 

One of the nine wines presented in the masterclass was the Feudo Antico Pecorino Tullum DOCG Biologico Fermentazoine Spontanea 2023.  As it's name suggests this 100% organically grown Pecorino was fermented naturally in cement tanks and then rested on its lees for six months.  This is a wonderful wine, golden delicious apples with a true sense of herbaciousness lifted by persistent acidity,  

Grape Spotlight: Virginia Gamay Through the EWE25

Gamay (Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc) is most famous for producing the fresh, red wines of Beaujolais. It is also grown in other parts of France (Maconnais, Loire region, and Savoie), in western Switzerland, and in the new world: Oregon, Washington, Canada, and more recently: the Commonwealth of Virginia.  Gamay grown in Virginia was a topic at the 2025 Eastern Winery Exposition through a session titled Gamay’s Versatility and Potential with Robert Muse (Muse Vineyards) & Christine Vrooman (Ankida Ridge Vineyards).

There is documented evidence that Gamay Noir has been planted in the Burgundy region since the 14th century. In 1395, the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe the Bold, banned the cultivation of Gamay in Burgundy because he felt it was inferior to Pinot Noir. Perhaps because DNA analysis shows that Gamay is an offspring of Pinot Noir and a white grape called Gouais Blanc. It was easier to grow than Pinot Noir and delivered larger yields, so local farmers preferred Gamay over Pinot Noir -- especially in Beaujolais.

                              Carbonic Maceration

Grapes are whole-bunch fermented in a sealed container which has been flushed with carbon dioxide, creating an anaerobic (oxygen-free) environment. Fermentation begins inside the still-whole berries, creating aromatic flavor compounds (phenols) not found in conventional fermentations. These compounds are responsible for the 'banana' and 'bubblegum' aromas associated with carbonically macerated wines. The technique produces wines which are fruitier and less tannic than those made from crushed grapes. Genuine, pure carbonic maceration is very hard to achieve, because the grapes at the bottom of the container typically split under the weight of the fruit above.

In the Shenandoah Valley, Robert Muse first planted Gamay in 2007 (most likely the first in Virginia)  and it has accepted the cold temperatures. The vines are planted at 750-1,000 feet elevation in soil types ranging from light loam to sandstone and alluvial deposits. Muse Vineyards uses carbonic maceration and after the internal fermentation the grapes are crushed and traditional fermentation occurs in stainless steel. The wine rests in these tanks for a year before bottling.  After bottling young, the wine is light bodied with low tannins; lively, fruity, and fresh aromatics. We have travelled to Woodstock on many occasions to enjoy this wine. The Gold medal it was recently awarded at the  2024 Virginia Governor's Cup is well deserved.

 

Moving south into the still higher Blue Ridge Mountains at Ankida Ridge Vineyards, the Vroomans decided to plant a test plot of Gamay in 2017 after several very successful years growing Pinot Noir.  They planted the 300 vines at 1,800 feet elevation in granite soils and learned that it out produces its Pinot harvest basically 3-1. This on top of dropping 1/3 of the Gamay berries. The Gamay also has a higher pulp to skin ratio leading to less tannin and color.  In 2023 they started vinifying the Gamay using partial carbonic maceration and the wine is only available by keg in the Ankida Ridge tasting room. However, we sipped a sample at the EWE session and it is light and lively, fresh fruit and abundant acidity. 

Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for May 2025: The Sparkling Tequila

The Effervescence Unleashed Cocktail of the Month for May 2025 is the Sparkling Tequila. Simply add tequila, lime juice, and mead (or simple syrup) to a shaker. Shake for 10-20 seconds and top with sparkling wine.

Ingredients

• 2 oz Cambio Tequila
• .5 oz lime juice
• .5 oz Clear Skies Meadery Friending Fenrir
• Ernest Rapeneau Champagne

Cambio is a self-described Mexican-styled Tequila: Tequila is one of the only spirits in the world to retain a sense of place through its entire process, it retains its Terroir. Every choice we made with Cambio is to enhance the effect and show the true potential of the spirit.” John des Rosiers – Founder of Cambio Tequila. Clear Skies Meadery is located in Rockville Maryland and produces a range of meads, cysers, and melomels. The Friending Fenrir is their flagship traditional dry mead is a bright and medium-bodied, this mead from orange blossom honey has notes of peach, apricot, and melon and a crisp, citrusy finish. The Ernest Rapeneau Champagne is a blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. It is produced in Epernay, the capitol of the Champagne region and was founded in 1901 by the head of the family, Ernest Louis Rapeneau. The family-run Champagne House is one of the last of its’ kind, operating on such a large scale, handing down the family expertise more than five generations. The House sources from 420 family grown and managed acres of estate vineyards. Grapes are carefully selected in order to craft the perfect blend. Each champagne emulates heritage of inimitable style created to delight and make those great occasions very special.