2007 Pacific Rim & Riverside International Competition Results

We were recently asked why we publish competition results which would seem to contradict our policy of urging consumers to drink what they like, not what others recommend. The short answer: I enjoy reading how east coast and midwestern wineries fare against West Coast wines. I hope you do too. Thus, here are results from the 2007 Pacific Rim Wine Competition and the 2007 Riverside International Wine Competition.

2007 Pacific Rim Wine Competition

Gold/Best of Class
Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves (CA): Blanc de Blancs 2003
Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves (CA): Blanc de Noir NV
Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves (CA): Sonoma Brut NV
Wyndham Estate (AU): Sparkling Chardonnay NV
Drytown Cellars (CA): Red -On-Red
Red Zeppelin Winery (CA): 2005 Black Zeppelin
Montevina (CA): 2005 Barbera
Biltmore Estate Winery (NC): Cabernet Franc NV
Monte Xanic (MX): 2002 Gran Ricardo
Little Boomey (AU): 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon
J. Lohr Estates (CA): 2005 Seven Oaks, Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon
Gordon Brothers Cellars (WA): 2005 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Jekel Vineyards (CA): 2004 Monterey Cabernet Sauvignon
J. Lohr Estates (CA): 2004 Hilltop Vineyard, Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon
ZD Wines (CA): 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Forest Glen Reserve (CA): 2003 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon
Eaton Hill Winery (WA): 2003 Yakima Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Askerne Estate (NZ): 2004 Hawke's Bay Merlot/Malbec/Cab Sauvignon/Cab Franc
Windsor Vineyards (CA): 2004 North Coast Meritage
Peter Vella (CA): NV Merlot
Hahn Estates (CA): 2005 Monterey Merlot
Hook & Ladder Winery (CA): 2005 Russian River Valley Merlot
Raymond Vineyard (CA): 2004 R Collection California Merlot
V. Sattui Winery (CA): 2004 Napa Valley Merlot
Camelot Winery (CA): 2003 California
Bianchi Vineyards (CA): 2004 Paso Robles Syrah
Church & State Wines (BC): 2005 Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir
Baileyana Winery (CA): Pinot Noir 2005 Grand Firepeak Cuvee, Edna Valley
Willowbrook Cellars (CA): 2004 Russian River Valley Estate Grown Pinot Noir
V. Sattui Winery (CA): 2006 California White Zinfandel
Handley Cellars (CA): 2006 Mendocino County Pinot Rose
Chateau Reynella (AU): 2004 McLaren Vale Grenache
Little Boomey (AU): Shiraz 2006 South Australia
Kendall-Jackson Vineyards (CA): 2005 Vintner's Reserve Syrah
Michael Pozzan Winery (CA): 2005 Napa Valley Syrah
Wyndham Estate (AU): 2004 Bin 555 Shiraz
Eberle Winery (CA): 2004 Paso Robles, Steinbeck Vineyard Syrah
Bridge Pa Vineyards (NZ): 2004 Louis Syrah
Eberle Winery (CA): 2005 Cotes-du-Robles
Fetzer Vineyards (CA): 2005 Valley Oaks Zinfandel
Victor Hugo (CA): 2005 Paso Robles, Estate Zinfandel
Rancho Zabaco Winery (CA): 2004 Heritage Vines Zinfandel
Rodney Strong Vineyards (CA): 2004 Knotty Vines Zinfandel
Trecini (CA): 2004 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel
Vina Robles Winery (CA): 2004 Paso Robles Red 4
Breitenbach Winey (OH): NV Frost Fire
Stone Hill Winery (MO): 2006 Steinberg White
Jacob's Creek Wines (AU): 2005 Chardonnay Reserve
Glen Carlou (South Africa): Chardonnay 2005 Paarl, South Africa
ZD Wines (CA): 2005 Reserve Chardonnay, Napa Valley
Covey Run (WA): 2005 Columbia Valley Chardonnay
Willowbrook Cellars (CA): 2004 Russian River Valley Chardonnay
Devil's Lair (AU): 2005 Fifth Leg White
Windsor Vineyards (CA): 2006 Chenin Blanc
Navarro Vineyards (CA): 2005 Gewurztraminer 2005 California, Cuvee Traditional
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery (BC): 2006 Private Reserve Gewurztraminer
Anthony Road Wine Company (NY) 2006 Finger Lakes Riesling
Ferrante Winery (OH): 2005 Grand River Valley Riesling
Brassfield Estate (CA): 2005 Late Harvest Johannisberg Riesling
Duck Walk Vineyard (NY): 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Miramonte Winery (CA): 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Peter Lehmann Wines (AU): 2005 Barossa Valley Semillon
Navarro Vineyards (CA): 2005 Anderson Valley Muscat Blanc
Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi (CA): 2005 California Muscat
Hester Creek Estate Winery (BC): 2006 Okanagan Valley Pinot Blanc
Norman Vineyards (CA): 2006 Santa Barbara County Pinot Grigio
Breitenbach Winey (OH): NV America Viognier
Rabbit Ridge (CA): 2005 Paso Robles Viognier
Callaway Winery (CA): 2005 Temecula Roussanne
Oak Knoll Winery (OR): NV Niagara
Montelle Winery (MO): 2006 Seyval Blanc
Dr. Konstantin Frank (NY): 2006 Rkatsiteli
Andeluna Cellars (Argentina): 2006 Winemakers Selection Torrante's
Ackerman Winery (IA): 2006 Red Raspberry
Navarro Vineyards (CA): 2005 Anderson Valley White Riesling
Leelanau Cellars (MI): Cherry
Leonesse Cellars (CA): 2003 Tucalota Vineyard Cinsault Port
Rancho de Philo NV Triple Cream Sherry

2007 Riverside International Wine Competition
Value Winery of the Year - Concannon Vineyard (CA)

Sweepstakes Awards
Sweepstakes Sparkling Wine: Mumm Napa (CA) - NV Methode Champenoise Brut
Sweepstakes Rose Wine: Barnard Griffin Winery (WA) - 2006 Sangiovese Rose
Sweepstakes White Wine: Chateau Lafayette Reneau (NY) - 2006 Johannisberg Riesling
Sweepstakes Red Wine: Victor Hugo (CA) - 2005 Estate Zinfandel
Sweepstakes Dessert Wine: Navarro Vineyards (CA) - 2005 Navarro Vineyards Muscat, Late-Harvest Cluster Select (Blanc)

Chairman's Award (Unanimous Gold)
Michael~David Winery (CA): 2004 Earthquake Syrah
Sebastiani Vineyards & Winery (CA): 2003 Merlot
Rutherford Wine Company (CA): 2005 Grand Pacific Starliner Red
Breitenbach Wine Cellars (OH): NV Vidal Blanc Ice Wine
Navarro Vineyards (CA): 2005 Late-Harvest Riesling
Foster's Wine Estates (AU): 2006 Lindemans Shiraz
Foster's Wine Estates (NZ): 2006 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates (CA): 2004 Mt Veeder Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon
Concannon Vineyards (CA): 2004 Sauvignon Blanc
Weibel Family Wine Group (CA): 2005 Mendocino Chardonnay
Pilot Peak Vineyard & Winery (CA): 2005 Paramour
Spangler Vineyards (OR): 2005 Sundown Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Mumm Napa (CA): Brut Prestige NV
Maurice Carrie Winery (CA): 2006 Muscat
Windsor Vineyards (CA): 2004 Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon
Windsor Vineyards (CA): 2006 Mendocino County Semillon
Carneros Creek Winery (CA): 2005 Reserve Pinot Noir
Chalet Debonne (OH): 2006 Riesling
Red Newt Cellars (NY): 2005 Cabernet Franc
Astrale E Terra (CA): 2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Peninsula Cellars (MI): 2005 Gewurztraminer
Pedroncelli Winery (CA): 2006 Dry Creek Valley Vintage Selection
Yangarra Estate Vineyard (AU): 2005 Shiraz
Swedish Hill Winery (NY): NV Concord
Swedish Hill Winery (NY): 2005 Late Harvest Vignoles
Vinum Cellars (CA): 2006 Chenin Blanc
Quail Creek Cellars: 2002 North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon
Baldwin Vineyards (NY): Raspberry
V. Sattui Winery (CA): 2005 Napa Valley Sattui Family
Silver Mountain Vineyards (CA): 2004 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir
WineSmith (CA): 2004 Cabernet Franc
Madrona Vineyards (CA): 2004 El Dorado Reserve, Estate
Baileyana Winery (CA): 2005 Edna Valley Chardonnay
Trinchero Family Estates (CA): 2004 Napa Valley Main Street Cabernet Sauvignon
Trinchero Family Estates (CA): 2004 Napa Valley Stagecoach Cabernet Sauvignon
Trinchero Family Estates (CA): 2006 Montevina Pinot Gris
Carol Shelton Wines (CA): 2006 Rendezvous Rose
Black Star Farms (MI): 2006 Riesling
Renteria (CA): 2005 Carneros Pinto Noir
Cline Cellars (CA): 2005 Contra Costa Mourvedre
Cosentino Winery (CA): 2005 Lodi Tempranillo
Cosentino Winery (CA): 2005 California Chardonnay
Sunset Cellars (CA): 2003 Twin Creeks Vineyard Barbera
Cosentino Winery (CA): 2005 California White Meritage
Geyser Peak Winery (CA): 2005 Alexander Valley Chardonnay
Granite Springs Winery (CA): 2004 Estate Zinfandel
Granite Springs Winery (CA): 2004 Petite Syrah
Wattle Creek Winery (CA): 2003 Alexander Valley Syrah
Barboursville Vineyards (VA): 2006 Pinot Gris
Fess Parker Winery (CA): 2005 Santa Barbara Pinot Noir
Jackson Family Farms (CA): 2004 Mendocino Zinfandel
Jackson Family Farms (CA): 2003 Sonoma Merlot
Fox Run Vineyards (NY) 2005 Dry Riesling
Chateau Lafayette Reneau (NY): 2005 Finger Lakes Chardonnay
Galleano Winery (CA): 2000 Zinfandel Port
Ste. Chapelle Winery (ID): 2005 Merlot
St. James Winery (MO): Niagara (Country White)
St. James Winery (MO): 2005 Late Harvest Chardonel
Brandt Family Winery (CA): 2005 Santa Barbara Syrah
Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards (NY): 2006 Off-Dry Riesling
Chrysalis Vineyards (VA): 2005 Barrel Select Norton
Mount Palomar Winery (CA): 2003 Temecula Valley Meritage

June Wine Festivals

The Wine-Compass.com event database contains over 2,200 upcoming events (as of Memorial Weekend) in the United States and Canada. For those looking for wine festivals in June, here is a short list of events in a few states:

California
Carneros Heritage Fest – Sonoma: June 1st & 2nd
Temecula Valley Balloon and Wine Festival – Temecula: June 1st-2nd
Taste of the Valley - Alexander Valley Winegrowers: June 2nd-3rd
Monterey Wine Festival – Monterey: June 7th-9th
Atascadero Wine Festival – Atascadero: June 22nd-23rd
Grape Escape – Sacramento: June 23rd
Taste of Howell Mountain - Howell Mountain Vintners & Growers Association: June 23rd

Colorado
Food & Wine Classic – Aspen: June 15th-17th
26th Annual Telluride Wine Festival – Telluride: June 28th – July 1st

Idaho
Sun Valley Food & Wine Festival - Sun Valley: June 8th-10th
An Odyssey of Fine Art, Wine and music at Silver Mountain Resort - June 16th

Indiana
Vintage Indiana - Military Park, Indianapolis: June 2nd

Louisiana
Southern Breeze Coastal Wine Tour – Baton Rouge: June 15th-17th

Maryland
Great Grapes - Oregon Ridge Park, Cockeysville, Maryland: June 9th-10th
Swingin' Blues Wine Festival - Linganore Wine Cellars: June 23rd-24th

Michigan
Rattlesnake's Summer Wine Festival - The Rattlesnake, Detroit: June 6th
Lake Michigan Shore Wine Festival - Weko Beach, Bridgman: June 23rd

New Mexico
4th Annual Fine Art & Wine Festival - Brandenburg Park, Red River: June 16th-17th

New York
Barbecue at the Wineries I - Keuka Lake Wine Trail: June 9th-10th
Barbecue at the Wineries II - Keuka Lake Wine Trail: June 23rd-24th

North Carolina
NC Wine Tour- Haw River – Morrisville – June 2nd
7th annual North Carolina Wine Festival - Tanglewood Park, Clemmons: June 9th
Salute! The North Carolina Wine Celebration - Winston Salem: June 24th

Ohio
Holidays-in-the-Round Wine Trail - Wing Watch and Wine Trail: June 2nd-3rd; June 9th-10th Salute to America - Appalacian Trail: June 16th-17th; June 23rd-24th
Second Annual Cleveland Wine Festival - Voinovich Park, Cleveland: June 29th-30th

Ontario
Niagara New Vintage Festival Winery Touring Passport - Niagara-on-the-Lake: June 9th – 17th
Oregon
4th Annual Summer Barrel Tour - Wineries of Lane County: June 17th & 24th
Wine, Chocolate & More - Polk County Fairgrounds, Rickreall: June 30th

Pennsylvania
Great Grapes – Philadelphia: June 2nd
Great Tastes of Pennsylvania Wine and Food Festival - Split Rock Resort: June 23rd-24th

Virginia
Vintage Virginia - Bull Run park, Centreville: June 2nd-3rd
Wintergreen Festival of Wines - Wintergreen Resort: June 16th
Manassas Wine & Jazz Festival - Old Town Manassas: June 17th
2007 Wine Festival at the Pines – Danville: June 24th

Washington
Leavenworth Wine Walk – Leavenworth: June 2nd-June 4th
First Annual Northwest Corks & Crush - Washington State Fairgrounds: June 23rd
Sunshine & Wine - State Fair Park, Yakima: June 23rd
5th Annual Lemberger/Lamburger BBQ - Chateau Champoux: June 23rd

West Virginia
West Virginia Wine and Regional Cuisine Festival - Stonewall Resort, Weston: June 9th
West Virginia Spring Wine Festival - Daniel Vineyards: June 16th-17th
Wine & All That Jazz Festival - University Of Charleston, Charleston: June 23rd

Forks of Cheat Winery

From Deep Creek Cellars, I headed west into Morgantown West Virginia, to visit one of our favorite wineries, Forks of Cheat Winery. We first tasted their wine at last year’s Berkeley Springs wine festival and fell in love with their fruit wines and the Foch based -Black Jewel Port. Today the winery was hosting Red Wine Tasting and Sales event which included entertainment from the bluegrass group, Weedhawks. Forks of Cheat is owned and operated by Jerry and Susan Deal, and their son Eric. The family is extremely hospitable and friendly, ready to engage in conversation and discuss their “hobby”. The winery opened in 1990, and it is best to quote why: “Who would have thought that getting caught stealing grapes would lead Jerry Deal to ownership of one of West Virginia’s foremost wineries? Well, that’s just what happened! When a neighbor chastised Jerry for eating grapes from her vines (on his side of the fence), he planted his own. In no time at all, the grape vines were so prolific that eating them all was out of the question. Wine making was the next choice. After several years of home wine making, recognition in amateur competitions, and the support of his friends, Jerry Deal decided to turn his hobby into a business. And so, Forks of Cheat Winery was established in July of 1990.”

The hobby struggled initially since selling wine in a small state, where 98% of the population doesn’t drink, was extremely difficult. And of the 2% that did drink, they preferred beer and liquor. But eventually advice from a UWV professor changed this situation. This professor told the Deal’s that their business model was flawed, instead of selling wine, Forks of Cheat sells gifts. Even if someone doesn’t drink, they know someone who does, so buy the wine as a gift. To facilitate this model, Eric has design award winning labels and custom labels for special occasions. The result, the winery now sells 2 dozen types of wine, and they just became the state’s third bonded distillery.

After hearing Mr. Deal explain the tax situation, I wonder why they started the distillery. The Federal government taxes the whiskey based on bulk product and proof. Thus, if the liquor is 150%, then the feds tax it 1.5 times. Then the state taxes the wholesale product at 28%, and the retail tax is 11%. How will they make a profit? We will see because the liquor will finally be available by the end of this month. The brandy (Peach, Pear, Blackberry, Cherry and Apple) will have low alcohol levels, since they want to market the wine to older women, who prefer a less alcoholic brandy. And eventually Forks of Cheat will produce Grappa, made from the second fermentation of skins, stems, seeds, etc from the wine grapes.

Even though Forks of Cheat is located just on the outskirts of Morgantown, it seems as if it is situated far into the countryside. The winery overlooks a small valley, with the vines planted on the sloped below. There are two decks; the larger surrounded by beautiful landscaping and Koi ponds. Even without today’s music, this is a great environment to share a glass of wine, relaxing in the sun or shade.

Since it was a red wine tasting event, that’s all I drank. These wines included the viniferia Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and the hybrid DeChaunac, Chambourcin, Baco Noir, and Leon Millot based Burgundy as well as the sweet Van Buren. The Van Buren is similar to Concord and is one of the winery’s best sellers. I really enjoyed the hybrids; all are medium bodied wines with low tannins which provide a smooth finish. The Chambourcin is slightly spicier than the Baco Noir and Burgundy, but each had a unique, drinkable flavor.

When visiting a winery, look for products that you normally do not have access to. Forks of Cheat produces plenty of these, such as their Niagara - Watson’s White Port, Bad Cat Catawba blush wine, the Baco Noir, DeChaunac, Leon Millot, and my favorite, the Foch – Black Jewel Port. And soon, you will have access to fruit liquor and Grappa. Quite a range of “gifts”.

Before leaving Morgantown Jerry recommended I purchase a bottle of Mountain Moonshine, distilled by his friend and West Virginia’s first distillery, the West Virginia Distilling Company. The whiskey is a clear corn whiskey made from 20% corn and 80% neutral grains. The whiskey is very clean tasting, with a slight sweetness; but be prepared, this whisky is strong.

Deep Creek Cellars

On Saturday, May 19th, I decided to avoid the crowds congregating in Front Royal and Columbia and venture out to Maryland’s most western winery, Deep Creek Cellars. Located on the extreme panhandle, the winery is minutes from West Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Deep Creek Lake, the later which drives most traffic to the winery from its spring through autumn visitors. Deep Creek Cellars is owned and operated by Paul Roberts, who started the first vineyard in Garrett County in 1997, by planting Cabernet Franc and Vidal grapes. He also helps manage a second Garrett County vineyard grow Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Vidal. Mr. Roberts first started making home wine in the early 1990s after planting Cynthiana grapes in a leased plot in western Pennsylvania. He started from scratch, researching not only how to grow grapes, but how to operate a tractor, post a trellis, etc. After a few years making home wine, he searched for land to purchase to establish his own vineyard\winery. The result - Deep Creek Cellars. Over years, the winery has slowly gained a strong following and reputation and recently Baltimore Magazine selected it as the best Maryland winery. And now several Baltimore retail outlets carry large quantities of their wines.

Mr. Roberts is not only a self-taught expert on wine-making and grape growing, but he is also a self taught expert on grape varietals. This is evident from reading his blog and his book, From This Hill, My Hand, Cynthiana's Wine. Published in 1999, the book describes his early experiences growing wine – up to - the creation of Deep Creek Cellars.

Deep Creek Cellars offers two white wines, the Seyval-Chardonnay based Yellow Jacket White and the White Linen Reserve. Of the two, I preferred the later, which is a blend of estate & northern Virginia Vidal Blanc, southeastern Pennsylvania Seyval, and estate & California Chardonnay: three grapes from four appellations. The wine is dry, with a slight earthy flavor, the body and texture of a chardonnay and the slightly sweet-spiciness of a Vidal. This is a great blend, each grape complimenting the wine but not dominating it. On the other hand, while finishing the tasting, a patron entered specifically to purchase the Yellow Jacket White, describing it as her favorite wine.

For reds, Deep Creek Cellars offers three very good, dry wines. The Artisan Red is your everyday value wine. It is predominately Grenache and Carignan, lightly oaked, and unfiltered. It is very fruit forward with berry flavors with a smooth finish. Priced at less than 10 dollars, this is a bargain. The next wine is the winery’s best seller and my favorite, the Watershed Red Reserve. Made from Cabernet France and small amounts of Zinfandel and Petit Verdot, this wine is a home run. The aromas are amazing, often I didn’t bother sipping, and I just wanted to smell the wine. Once I did try the wine, it was great; full-bodied and dry, yet soft and smooth. It has a fruit forward cherry flavor and a smooth, slightly vanilla-ish finish. Excellent. The next red was the Ursa Major, and equal blend of Virginia Cynthiana, California Zinfandel, and California Grenache. Mr. Roberts prefers blending Cynthiana instead of making a vintage Cynthiana wine, so he chose to use two American classic grapes with the Grenache. This blend is very interesting; bold cherry flavors with a spicy finish. As much as I love each of these grape varieties, I somehow think it’s overshadowed by the Watershed Red Reserve. Finally, Mr. Roberts offered me a glass of his upcoming Cabernet Franc Rose, which he plans to bottle this summer. The wine is an excellent dry rose; dry, but soft and refreshing. This wine will be versatile, drinkable alone or with a meal. Look for it this summer.

The only downside to visiting Deep Creek Cellars is the distance, 2-3 hours from the Washington metro area. Once you reach western Maryland, there are plenty of other attractions from historic Cumberland, to Deep Creek Lake and the Youghiogheny River. Or, you could continue into West Virginia….

Today’s Bordeaux

On Thursday, May 10th, we participated in the Bordeaux Wine Bureau’s second annual Today’s Bordeaux tasting of 100 “classic, contemporary, affordable wines”. This was a trade-only tasting designed to introduce distributors, retailers, and wine writers to 100 of the best Bordeaux wines that retail for less than $25. An independent jury selected the wines from over 300 wines entered. In addition, several of the winemakers were present to represent their wines and the region on behalf of the Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB).

Before attending this event, we were familiar with the high priced Bordeaux red wines that are often featured in Wine Spectator and other sources. We were a little skeptical that there were even Bordeaux wines available for less then $25. Were we ever wrong. In fact 80% of the wines produced in Bordeaux fall within this price range. Not only were the wines fantastic, but the majority were less than $15. Complete bargains - particularly when locally produced wines now cost more than $20. It was also fascinating listening to the winemakers discuss Bordeaux – the terrior: from the appellations to how elevation and location affects not only which grapes to grow, but what percentages to use in the blend. Fascinating stuff.

The white wines were blends of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and sometimes Muscadelle. This grape has a similar aroma as the Muscat family of grapes, but is unrelated. And this aroma led us to prefer the blends with higher percentages of Muscadelle. Our favorite was the Chateau Lamothe De Haux 2006 – a blend of 40% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, and 20% Muscadelle from the Bordeaux appellation. The winemaker, Damien Chombart, explained that the Muscadelle is used for its excellent aroma, but it is a very fragile grape – prone to noble rot. The finished wine has flavors of kiwi and grapefruit. This wine retails between $12 and $14. Another white that we enjoyed was the Chateau Villa Bel-Air Blanc 2004 ($20), a blend of 45% Sémillon, 40% Sauvignon Blanc, and 5% Muscadelle. The best non-Muscadelle blends were the Saint Savin 2005 (60% Sémillon - 40% Sauvignon Blanc); the La Vigne D’Argent 2005 (75% Sauvignon Blanc - 25% Sémillon); and the Vieux Chateaux Gaubert 2005 (50% Sauvignon Blanc - 50% Sémillon). Fortunately, there was also dessert wine, an incredible Sauternes – the Castelnau de Suduiraut 2003 (90% Sémillon -10% Sauvignon Blanc). This wine just melted in your mouth and at $20 it is more affordable than ice wines or many late harvest wines.

The red wines were either vintage Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, or a blend of the three. In a few cases, a small percent of Petit Verdot or Malbec were added to the blend. Our favorite was the Chateau Taffard 2005, a 50-50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from the Médoc appellation. Chateau Tafford has been operating for 163 years and ages this wine in stainless steel. The result: a full-bodied, dry wine, but the low tannins provide a long soft finish – very smooth. And at $12-$14, this is a bargain. Another excellent wine that is aged in stainless steel was the Roc de Jean Lys 2005 and blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. Aging in steel allows the grapes to speak for themselves; this wine is full of berry flavors and a balanced smooth finish. And its only $15. Another great wine was the Chateau Robin 2003 a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc from the Cotes de Castillon appellation. This wine is aged one year in oak and is a balanced full-bodied wine. Jerome Caille, the wine maker, informed us that his goal is to produce a drinkable wine with low sulfates. If the wine is made carefully with quality fruit, sulfites are unnecessary.

Although I’d like to discuss all the wines, the last I must mention was the 2005 FreeRange Red Bordeaux another 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc blend. Produced by the JuiceBox Wine Company, the Red Bordeaux is one of seven Bordeaux wines available, by; yes; a 3-liter box. First, the wine is excellent; otherwise it would not have been selected to participate in the tasting. Second, it is incredibly affordable – priced at $27 a box – this converts to $6.75 a bottle. Finally, the process is simple. Eric Delong, a fifth generation Bordeaux winemaker searches the area for outstanding wines from small producers. The wines are blended and packaged in France, then shipped to the states. We will have several available at our next family cookout.

We left the Today’s Bordeaux tasting completely infatuated with the wines and winemakers. Bordeaux is not the home of stuffy, high priced wines; but friendly and affordable ones. We strongly recommend visiting the Bordeaux Wine Bureau and trying one of the 100.

Wine 101 - Blanc Du Bois

Traditionally, grapes are cultivated in each region based on geographic conditions, and not necessarily on which wine is is most popular in the market. In this regard, American winemakers in the southeast and Gulf states have been limited in the grapes that they can cultivate because the humid conditions of their terrior promote the development of Pierce's disease. Vitis Viniferia grapes are particularly susceptible to this disease, in which bacteria attacks the "water conducting" elements of the vines (xylem). Thus wine growers in this region were primarily dependent on growing native Muscadine grapes, which were mostly resistant to the disease. Researchers at the University of Florida’s Leesburg Research Station, began a program to create a new grape that was fully resistant to Pierce's disease. Led by Dr. John Mortenson, in 1968, the team was able to develop a complex hybrid grape from crossing a Florida-developed muscadine hybrid with the Cardinal (a Vinifera hybrid) table grape. They called this new white grape Blanc Du Bois, and claimed that is was completely resistant to the destructive disease. For the past two decades, southern winemakers have validated this claim by producing dry, fruity Blanc Du Bois wines, many which have won medals in international competitions. Although Florida was it's original birthplace, this grape has flourished in other humid regions in the United States, particularly in Texas.

One Texas winery, Haak Vineyards & Winery, was one of the first wineries in the country to cultivate Blanc du Bois. In the early 1970’s Raymand Haak contacted the University in Florida after reading about their efforts to create a grape resistant to Pierce's Disease. He ordered a few Blanc du Bois vines and began experimenting with the grapes he grew. He believed that it had great potential to produce premium wines and encouraged other local vineyards to plant the variety. His foresight has proven correct since his winery has produced numerous medal winning dry and off-dry Blanc du Bois wines. The winery’s best wine comes from the two acres of 24 year old vines growing in his vineyard. In addition, the winery is able to purchase tons of quality Blanc du Bois grapes from commercial growers in his region. From these grapes, Haak Winery produces two distinct styles of wine. The first style is finished off-dry with 3% residual sugar. If exhibits a flavor profile similar to a nice clean crisp Riesling with flavors of peach, pear, pineapple and other tropical fruit. The second style is finished dry. It exhibits citrus flavors with grapefruit being predominant and finishing with slight hints of lemon, banana, and honey – similar to a clean crisp New Zealand style Sauvignon Blanc. However, Mr. Haak explains, “make no mistake about it, Blanc du Bois is its own grape variety and is winning loyal consumers every day”. These “loyal consumers” purchase the entire stock of each year’s vintage and even includes wine judges, who have awarded Haak Winery medals for its Blanc du Bois, since the first vintage. Among the many medals awarded in 2005, were Silver at the Indiana International Wine Competition, Bronze at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition, and Silver and Bronze at the Texas Best Wine Competition. In addition, the dry Blanc du Bois was awarded Best of Show at the Texas Best Wine Competition. The primary hindrance that Mr. Haak experiences is the lack of name recognition that encumbers several of the varieties reported in this Vitis Labrusca section. Blanc du Bois is sold primarily through the tasting room, where the general public overwhelmingly enjoys the unique characteristics of this grape. However, he does not expect the wine buyer to purchase this wine at a retail outlet, when they probably have never heard of the fruit. He has even had name recognition problems with wine judges, where one was reported to ask “What grape is this wine made from?”

Two other Texas wineries, Los Pinos Ranch Vineyards and Tehuacana Creek Vineyards and Winery, started cultivating Blanc Du Bois after looking for a vine that is resistant to Pierce disease and as a bonus, found that this grape makes world class wine. Los Pinos Ranch is a small family-owned winery located in east Texas almost half way between Dallas and Shreveport. The winery’s philosophy is to encourage people to be adventurous in your wine tasting, and to meet this goal, they are producing three versions of Blanc Du Bois. The first is a dry white wine - similar to Viognier; the second is a semi-sweet wine in a Riesling style; and the third will be a malolactic barrel fermented dry wine that will taste like peaches. As with many non-vinifera grapes, many “wine critics/experts” have preconceived notions about what grapes and regions will produce good wine and thus give Blanc Du Bois scant notice. Jeff Sneed, the winery’s winemaker, is firmly convinced that given a blind taste test, Blanc Du Bois can compete with any “French” grape. We completely agree with Mr. Sneed when he advises, “Don’t listen to wine ‘experts’. Most people know what tastes good when they put it in their mouth.”

Tehuacana Creek Vineyards and Winery is a family owned and operated vineyard located in Waco, Texas. They are pleased to be able to produce a unique and premium white wine such as Blanc du Bois without having to produce “yet another Chardonnay”. Their Blanc du Bois is aged in stainless steel which gives the wine a crisper and livelier fruit taste which further distinguishes it from classic American whites. According to the winery, their Blanc du Bois combines the crisp fruit of a Riesling with the aromatic flavors of a Muscato and a touch of spiciness reminiscent of a Gewürtztraminer. It has also received a welcome reception from the Texan wine public by earning accolades at this year's Annual Heart of Texas Wine and Food Festival. Ulf Westblom, the winery’s Winemaker, also recommends aging the wine for several years – unlike other white wines, Blanc du Bois will further develop in the bottle.

Traveling east into Louisiana, Landry Vineyards has been cultivating Blanc Du Bois since the vineyards were first planted in 1999. Located in the town of Folsom, in St. Tammany Parish, the winery seeks to produce quality Louisiana wines that are distinctive to the region and Blanc Du Bois meets this criteria based on its resistance to Pierce disease, its tolerance to heat and its ability to produce quality wine. Landry Vineyards produces three versions of the wine: Blanc Du Bois Dry, Blanc Du Bois Oak Aged, and Blanc Du Bois Semi-Sweet. According to the winery’s tasting notes, “each version possesses clean crisp flavors of fruit including peach, pear, tropical fruit with hints of wood character and honey-suckle aromas”. Jeff Landry, the owner/winemaker, believes this grape produces a nice wine and is excited about their current success producing Blanc Du Bois.

Blanc du Bois will never receive the public exposure as Chardonnay or Riesling. But its worth a try.

Results of the 2006 Jefferson Cup Invitational

We are quite a bit behind schedule posting competition results, one of which was the 2006 Jefferson Cup. "The Jefferson Cup Invitational, a seven-year-old wine competition, is the only competition that honors the best of the best among US wineries from all of America’s wine regions. Each year we select great wines from across America. This year, at the end of the second day of tasting, December 1 st, 2006, wines from seven different states had captured top honors. Just as the event’s namesake would have it, democracy reigned at this year’s Jefferson Cup Wine Competition. The Jefferson Cup Invitational does not award golds, silvers and the like. Rather, the invited wines have all proven their excellence in competitions and tastings throughout the last year. We believe and try to publicize our belief that these are wines that are extremely deserving of the nation’s attention.

This year, out of four hundred ninety-nine chosen wines, the judges chose just over two hundred thirty-six wines to receive the “Certificate of American Merit”, which respects wines exemplary of their regions and varieties. Next the judges chose ninety wines (there was no pre-ordained number or percentage) that they believed were truly great examples. Those will receive certificates announcing them as “American Examples of Greatness”.

This year, sixty-seven wines were selected as Jefferson Cup honorees; these wines were nominated by the four judging committees to receive Jefferson Cups. Out of those sixty-seven honored wines, the judges picked nineteen wines to be awarded the Jefferson Cups. By selecting both vinifera and non-vinifera wines for the Jefferson Cup each year, the hope is to respect the diversity of American viticulture and Jefferson's own acceptance of native varieties and hybrids. For the first time, the judges chose to honor three of the Jefferson Cup nominees with a new, top award called THE JEFFERSON TROPHY." Courtesy of the 2006 Jefferson Cup.
The 2006 JEFFERSON TROPHY winners were:
White Hall Vineyards Petit Manseng 2005 Monticello
Jade Mountain La Provencale 2004 California
Stone Hill Winery Late Harvest Vignoles 2005 Missouri

The 2006 JEFFERSON CUP winners were:

For Non-Vinifera White Wine:
Augusta Winery Seyval Blanc 2005 Missouri
Chalet Debonne’ Vidal Blanc 2005 Ohio
Montelle Winery Vignoles Dry 2005 Missouri

For Vinifera Red Wine:
Trespass Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2003 St. Helena
Snoqualmie Vineyards Merlot Reserve 2003 Columbia Valley
Andrew Will Winery Syrah Annie Camarda 2002 Red Mountain/Horse Heaven Hills
Michael David Earthquake Syrah 2004 Lodi
Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Montebello 2003
Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004 Columbia Valley
Clos du Bois Marlstone 2003 Sonoma
Cosentino Winery The Poet 2003
Concannon Vineyards Petite Sirah Limited Release 2004 Central Coast
Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel Heritage Vines 2004 Sonoma County

For Non-Vinifera Red Wine:
St. Julian Vineyards Red Heron nv Michigan

For Dessert Wine:
Flat Creek Estate Moscato Blanco 2005 Texas Hill Country
St. James Winery Late Harvest Chardonel 2004 Missouri
Stone Hill Winery Cream Sherry nv Missouri
Rotta Winery Black Monukka 2003 California

Wine in the Woods Preview

The first Maryland wine festival of the year will take place May 19th and 20th in Columbia's Symphony Woods, adjacent to Merriweather Post Pavilion. Last year's festival was attended by record crowds whcih lead to long lines at the tasting tents. We recommend arriving early and once the lines form, select a few wineries that you haven't experienced before.

The following wineries will be participating at the event:
Basignani Winery, Boordy Vineyards, Cove Point Winery, Cygnus Wine Cellars, Deep Creek Cellars, Elk Run Vineyards, Fiore Winery, Frederick Cellars, Fridays Creek Winery, Linganore Wine Cellars, Little Ashby Vineyards, Loew Vineyards, Penn Oaks Winery, Solomons Island Winery, Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard, St. Michaels Winery, Tilmon's Island Winery, Woodhall Wine Cellars.

The first winery we plan to visit is Fridays Creek Winery, a new winery located in southern Maryland. We look forward to trying this winery's wide array of wines from Gewürztraminer and Riesling to Syrah and old Vine Zinfandel. Sugar Loaf Mountain is also a relatively new winery that you shouldn't miss. We will then stop by Deep Creek Cellars, the farthest winery from the Washington DC area. This is usually our only chance to taste their wines and we hope their Ursa Major (5% Cynthiana, 35% Zinfandel, 30% Grenache blend) will be available. After that, we will see which tent has the shortest lines. In the last two years Linganore Cellars and Frederick Cellars have won the Governors Cup for their Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon - so they are both worth visits. Fiore Winery makes excellent Chambourcin, Loew Vineyards Chardonnay, Basignani Winery's Marisa (Foch, Chambourcin and Chancelor), Solomons Island Winery's Marytage, and Woodhall Wine Cellars' Cabernet. Plus, Penn Oaks Winery makes several excellent whites from German grapes and all the wines from Elk Run Vineyards are worth trying. You make the call.

As for entertainment, your best bet Saturday is to see the boogie blues of the Daryl Davis Band. He learned the piano from the great Pinetop Perkins and always performs a great show. On Sunday, don't miss Charles 'Big Daddy' Stallings. Stalling's most recent hit "4x4 Woman" reached #1 @ XM Radio (Bluesville).

Besides a wide variety of craft vendors, the festival will provide wine demonstrations each day. At 1:00 pm - Yogi Barrett, Wayne Peppers and Paul Bresson of the Tasters Guild International, will guide you through the wine tasting experience. At 2:00 pm - Maryland’s White Wines will be introduced by Yogi Barrett, Wayne Peppers and Paul Bresson. At 3:00 pm - Maryland’s Red Wines will be introduced by Yogi Barrett, Wayne Peppers and Paul Bresson. And at 4:00 pm - Maryland’s Sweet and Dessert Wines will be introduced by Yogi Barrett, Wayne Peppers and Paul Bresson.

See you there.

Linden Vineyards

Over the past three years we had heard several Virginia wine enthusiasts recommend a visit to Linden Vineyards. We were told that the winery provided excellent views of the surrounding hillsides and that the wine was some of the best produced in the state. We had previously tasted their Hardscrabble Chardonnay – and were instant fans - and were eager to try their other offerings. Linden is located just off Route 66 close to Front Royal – about 40 minutes from the Beltway. Once you exit Route 66 and reach Linden the trip is an enjoyable, twisting ride among cattle and horse farms. The winery, itself, sits on a hill with awesome views of the surrounding hills. The rumors were apparently true.

Over 25 years ago, Jim Law accepted his first job as a Virginian winemaker and eventually purchased the abandoned Hardscrabble Farm on the Blue Ridge Mountains. Through the years he increased his land holding so that currently all grapes used in Linden wines are grown in the mountains surrounding the winery. These vineyards now include the original Hardscrabble Vineyard, plus the Avenius and Boisseau vineyards.

Linden Vineyards provides a free tasting of several wines and a $12 reserve tasting on the weekends. Today we skipped the reserve tasting because of time constraints and participated in tasting their 2005 Seyval, 2006 Rosé, 2005 Cabernet Franc, 2003 Claret, and 2006 Vidal-Riesling. The 2005 Seyval is a dry wine with a strong grapefruit flavor and a slightly acidic finish. The 2006 Rosé is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, made with minimal skin contact. This wine is also made dry which is a welcome change from the many sweeter Rosé styled wines on the market. The wine also has a nice berry flavor and a slightly grapefruit flavor finish. Interesting. Moving to their reds, the 2005 Cabernet Franc is outstanding. It is a full-bodied, dry wine with a cherry flavor and spicy finish. This is another example of the excellent Cabernet Franc made in Virginia. Their other red is the softer 2003 Claret, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. The wine is medium bodied with berry flavors and a completely smooth finish. Finally, the 2006 Vidal-Riesling was a bomb – that is – a mouthful of acidity and citrus that moved throughout your mouth. Here is your summer wine; slightly sweet with spicy flavors. This is the one we took home.

It was satisfying to validate the many claims we had received regarding Linden’s wines. And we enjoyed “hanging out” on their deck, talking with other patrons about Linden and the Virginia wine industry. We are looking forward to our return visit and a trip into the reserve cellar.

Wine 101 - Muscat Canelli

The first mention of wine in modern literature occurred in the Book of Genesis’s story of Noah’s Ark. After the Ark landed on Mount Ararat, one of Noah’s first acts was to plant a vineyard. The most likely grape: a Muscat. Muscat is a group of similar grape varieties (200 in all) in which the most familiar are Muscat Ottonel, Muscat of Alexandria, and Muscat Canelli. It is thought that Muscat Canelli probably originated around the Mediterranean and it spread from there. The Greeks brought cuttings with them to the Crimea, the Romans and Phoenicians took it to Europe and event the Egyptians sent cuttings as far south as present day South Africa.

Today Muscat Canelli is cultivated throughout the world; it is known as Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains (‘Muscat with small berries’) in France, Moscato di Canelli in Italy where it is used to make Asti Spumante and semi-sparkling Moscato d'Asti, Muskateller in Germany, and Muscat Lunel in Hungary. In the United States, Muscat Canelli is primarily grown on the west coast.

In Montana, Tom Campbell of Mission Mountain Winery was first introduced to the Muscat family of grapes at U. C. Davis as part of class work in their mother block of grape varieties. He was impressed with the plump sweet fragrant nature of the grapes and knew then that he had to make Muscat wines. While visiting other winery’s he determined that Muscat Canelli was his favorite Muscat varietal because of its flavor profile. And as a winemaker, he experimented with other Muscats such as Muscat of Alexander, Orange Muscat, and Muscat of Hamburg and always returned to Muscat Canelli. Currently Mission Mountain Winery offers two Muscat Canelli wines, a semi-sweet Muscat Canelli with 1.7% residual sugar, the Nouveaux Riche dessert wine with 10% residual sugar, and a Cream Sherry - Muscat Canelli fortified with brandy. For the past 21 years these wines have won medals at many national and international competitions. Since this grape is not a household name, sampling at the winery’s tasting room is the only chance people have to experience the variety; Mr. Campbell has observed that visitors generally love it or reject it.

In California, Mastantuono Winery has been producing Muscat Canelli for over two decades. Located in the Central Coast appellation, the winery is close to halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles and is the 5th oldest winery in San Luis Obispo County. Based on the owner’s Italian heritage, they take pride in their Muscat, calling it the “True Nectar of the Gods”. One of the main reasons the winery gives for producing Muscat Canelli is that it provides an important part of a balanced tasting list. Having several dessert wines is a good way to finish a wine tasting. This dessert wine displays fruity aromas with a slight taste of pears. The winery recommends pairing the wine with cheese and fruit. The only acceptance problem the winery encounters is that some Californian wine drinkers frown on sweet wine – so they ignore the dessert wines. It’s amazing to us how certain attitudes limit people’s enjoyment of some types of wine.

Farther east, in Oklahoma, Muscat Canelli has been a very successful wine for Tres Suenos Vineyards and Winery. They winery cultivates Muscat because it grows well in their climate and produces a fruity wine with honeysuckle characteristics. The winery opened 6 years ago and is located in Luther County – in the central part of the state. They produce a sweet 100% Muscat Canelli, Fiesta Blanca, which is both a Gold medal winner and their leading seller. They also blend with Riesling and Chenin Blanc to create a rose style Blush Delight.

Reston Great Grapes

On Saturday April 14th several Virginia wineries participated in the inaugural Reston Great Grapes wine festival. The day was overcast with scattered showers which, although a little nuisance, kept the crowd lighter than expected. This allowed attendees to sample wines without waiting in long lines – the usual case at these events. The organizers of Great Grapes arranged quality musical acts that performed throughout the day. The Martha Bassett Band was a real surprise and the Kelly Bell Band, although late, gave their usual outstanding performance. This year we started a new policy, where we only taste only one type of wine at these festivals. In the past, many of the wines seemed to blend together and it was difficult to appraise a wine after going from dry->sweet or white->red for each winery.

Today we decided upon dry reds (once again) and there were many excellent offerings. The first tent we visited was for Cave Ridge Vineyard, a new winery located near Woodstock in the Shenandoah Valley. At today’s event they were pouring a Riesling, Viognier, Traminette, and luckily, one red wine: Chambourcin. This is a dry medium bodied wine with nice cherry flavors; light tannins provide a smooth finish. A good start to the day. Next we proceeded to Veramar’s tent, hoping beyond expectations that their Norton would be available. Nope. Instead, they were pouring their Chianti-style Rooster Red and a new release, Red Chicken. I’ll have to contact the winery to determine what grapes produced the wine, but this was another nice medium bodied wine – full of berry flavors and a slight spicy finish. At $14, this is a reasonably priced wine.

From Veramar, we moved to the upper level and found the star of the day, Lake Anna Winery. Located in Spotsylvania County, a few miles away from Lake Anna, the winery has been operating for over twenty years making wine primarily from traditional vinifera grapes. We were informed by Will, one of their charismatic volunteers, that Lake Anna either grows all their grapes or sources from surrounding vineyards. And in most cases, these vineyards grow solely for Lake Anna. Today we tasted their Spotsylvania Claret, Totally Red, 2003 Merlot, and 2003 Cabernet Franc. Each of these wines was awarded medals at the 2006 Virginia Governor’s Cup competition, with the Spotsylvania Claret winning a Gold medal. This wine is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chambourcin, Touriga, and Petite Verdot. It is made slightly dry with a little acidity at the finish and is the winery’s most popular wine. The Totally Red is similar (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Tannat, Touriga, and Chambourcin) - a littler drier and fuller. The Merlot and Cabernet Franc were even drier and fuller, both had strong berry flavors and smooth finishes. Of the two, I preferred the Cab Franc; this is an excellent wine and if not for Horton’s Tannat, my favorite of the festival. We decided to setup camp next to Lake Anna’s tent on a hill overlooking the lower section and stage. Throughout the day we couldn’t notice that the largest crowds surrounded Lake Anna’s tent. Was it the perfect location or good wine? Probably a little of both, but we returned for the wines.

After watching the Martha Bassett Band perform their last few songs, we moved on to the rest of the wineries encamped on the upper level. We liked North Mountain Vineyard’s Chambourcin which is a full-bodied red which won a Silver medal at the 2006 Virginia Governor’s Cup competition. We didn’t stay long, attracted by the thought of tasting Horton Vineyard’s wines in the next tent. Horton was pouring a few red wines, and we overlooked their Norton (see a description of this wine in the Wine 101 section) in order to concentrate on their Cabernet Franc and Tannat. The Cabernet Franc is a gold medal wine, with a full cherry flavor and slightly spicy finish. It was very comparable to Lake Anna’s version. The Tannat was amazing. It is as dry as the Cab Franc, but with a much spicier finish. It also has a uniqueness that you won’t find in the standard Virginian red wine. It wasn’t until I was home and researched the wine did I find that it is a star. In the 2006 Virginia Governor’s Cup competition, it was not only awarded a Gold medal, but it won the Best of Red award; i.e. in 2006 it is considered Virginia’s best red wine. No kidding. We also tried Horton’s port offerings since it’s hard to resist dessert wines, and at least they were red. We preferred the Jamestown Commerative Courage port styled wine, a blend of Tourica Nacional, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. It is full bodied and seems to have more flavor than their Vintage Port.

We decided to have a little fun and try our luck at Peaks of Otter Winery, which specializes in fruit wine and other interesting concoctions. We started with our favorite, the slightly sweet Plumlicous. We were then talked into trying the “Chili Dawg” - 97% apple 3% chili pepper wine, plus a shot of cheese wiz. Then, peer pressure forced us to “Kiss the Devil” or in order words, try their super hot – pepper wine made from 30 varieties of peppers. I needed a chaser of the Mountain Grape sweet concord to wash away the burn. It was readily apparent that Peaks of Otter is a fun group to hang with.

Before settling in to watch the Kelly Bell Band, we stopped to try Le Mousseux, a sparkling Virginia cider from La Provençale Cellars. The cider is a blend of several types of apples including Macintosh, Jonathan, and Granny Smith. Not only is the cider awesome, but is a great idea to provide a non-alcoholic beverage so that children can feel like they are participating in the tasting. We hope to see Le Mousseux offered at future festivals.

In sum, despite the weather this was a great event. Not only were there excellent wines, food and music, but it was located minutes from our back door. Hopefully the low turnout will not discourage the organizers from producing a similar event next year.

Warm Lake Estate

This week we received our quarterly newsletter from New York's Warm Lake Estate. This winery is located in the Niagara Escarpment, a new AVA which borders the southern coast of Lake Ontario. Warm Lake Estate produces Pinot Noir, and only Pinot Noir, from the largest pinot planting east of the Rockies. We were pleasantly surprised to read that their 2003 Pinot Noir was named "Best in Show" at the 16th Annual Boston Wine Expo. This trade event is the largest of its kind in the United States and trade representatives chose the 2003 Warm Lake Estate Pinot Noir over thousands of other wines poured at the event. Congratulations.

Wine 101 - Steuben

Grape juice with a kick. That is a common description of Steuben wine, a native hybrid labrusca. Similar to the Concord grape, Steuben produces mild, grapey, red wine with a light “foxy” feel. Created at the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in Geneva, New York and released in 1947, Steuben is a cross between the Wayne and Sheridan grapes. This grape is very popular in the Eastern and Midwestern regions of the United States, and in particular: Indiana.

The Indiana wine industry was started by John James Dufour, a Swiss immigrant who immigrated to the United States after fleeing Napoleon's armies. After failing to grow vinferia grapes in Lexington, Kentucky; in the early 1800s, he took cuttings of a hybrid labrusca grape, Cape, and moved to an area in the Indiana Territory now known as Vevay. This hardy grape flourished and was the basis for the first successful wine production in the United States. For the next 15 years, Indiana was at the forefront of the U.S. wine industry, marketing “Vevay” wine to the remainder of the country. However, as quickly as the Indiana wine industry emerged, it crashed due to falling land values and agriculture prices. The focus of wine-making soon shifted to Cincinnati (see Catawba article.) From this period until Prohibition, Indiana was still the 10 largest wine producer in the country, with small family owned wineries throughout the countryside. Prohibition nearly terminated the Indiana wine industry and the industry did not revitalize until the Small Winery Act of 1971. This legislation allowed small wineries to sell directly to the public rather than strictly through distributors. With the help of the Indiana Wine Grape Council, over thirty wineries now operate in the state with the number of gallons produced increasing 15% annually.

Several Indiana wineries produce Steuben wine. French Lick Winery started growing this grape because it had trouble procuring grapes when the winery started 10 years ago. Steuben grapes were available and other wineries appeared not to want it. French Lick Winery turned this apparent outcast into a Gold winner at the Great Lakes competition by producing a fruity alternative to White Zinfandel. The 2% residual sugar balances very nicely with the high acidity in the Steuben grape. They sell most of their Steuben through the tasting room since most people have not heard of the variety, but are willing to try it within the confines of the winery. French Lick Winery recommends pairing with wine with Italian dishes and poultry, especially during the upcoming Thanksgiving season. The winery warns however, that the wine does suffer from the bottling process and requires about six months to recover. In addition, the wine’s color may change to an orange color over time, but this does not affect the wines flavor.

Another Indiana winery, Satek Winery, is located in Steuben County, Indiana. First operating as a vineyard, Satek’s Steuben grapes have won numerous awards by other wineries. In 2001, the Sateks opened their own winery and have excelled in producing vinifera and labrusca grapes. In 2005 the winery won 17 medals in the Indy International, the third largest international wine competition in the United States. Their 2003 Steuben received a Silver medal in the competition. Like French Lick Winery, Satek’s Steuben is made in the style of a white zinfandel that is a semi-sweet, fruity wine with strawberry and kiwi characteristics.

Steuben is also grown in neighboring Illinois. Vahling Vineyards has been producing Steuben for the past few years, primarily because the Vahlings liked the taste of the grape. They also feel that the Blush characteristics of their Steuben make it a good wine for the beginning wine drinker.

Farther east, Kelly Betz, the owner of Stoney Acres Winery in Nescopeck Pennsylvania, started cultivating Steuben after trying the varietal made from a winemaker friend. He enjoyed the taste and decided to add it to his winery’s selection. Apparently the winery’s customers also like the taste of this semi-sweet wine. Their version is a rose’ style wine with a "pink grapefruit” finish. Acid levels can be high at times and after a rainy growing season the color may be very pale, but in general, Stoney Acres Winery has a faithful, local following for their Steuben.

Steuben is a great alternative for those tiring of the standard White Zinfandel-Blush offerings. It’s semi-sweet and grapey characteristics compliment many meals and it’s a great porch wine. It can also make an interesting beverage when combined with sparkling wine.

Results of the 2007 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition

Thanks to the Finger Lakes Weekend Wino for alerting us that the results of the 2007 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition have been posted. The year the annual event was held March 31st and April 1st in Rochester New York. Just over 1,700 wines were submitted, representing wineries in the United States, Canada, and other other international wine producing regions. Most of the judges reside in New York, but some came as far away as France, Germany, United Kingdom, Argentina, and New Zealand.

Besides awarded traditional medals, this competition bestows a Best Ice Wine and Best Riesling award. The Best Ice Wine was given to Vignoble du Marathonien from Havelock Quebec for their 2004 Vin de Glace Vidal Ice Wine. My limited French translated the wine's description as follows. "The wine is made from 100% Vidal grapes and was harvested in December when temperatures were between -10 and -14 degrees Celsius." The wine is priced at 50 Canadian dollars. The Best Riesling was awarded, not to a New York or Germany winery, but to Washington's Chateau St. Michelle, for their 2005 Columbia Valley Horse Heaven Hills Reserve Ethos Late Harvest White Riesling. That's a mouthful in itself. According to winemaker Bob Bertheau, this is “a complex wine, the Ethos Late Harvest Riesling exudes aromas of honey, apricot and spice. The harmonious balance of sugar and natural acidity results in a smooth and viscous mouth feel and a long-lasting finish.” This wine retails for $39.99.

There were quite a few wines that were awarded Double Gold medals, in which the judges unanimously decided the wine deserved a Gold medal. The list includes:

Vignoble Clos Saint-Denis (QC), 2005 Fine Pomme de Glace Aged in Oak Casks
Cosentino Winery (CA), 2005 California The Franc
Bronco Wine Company, Napa Ridge Winery 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Honeymoon Trail Winery (NY), Lake Erie Pink Catawba
Jacob's Creek Wines (AU), 2006 South Eastern Australia Chardonnay
Galen Glen Vineyard and Winery (PA), 2005 PA Stone Cellar Vidal Blanc Ice Wine
Reif Estate Winery (ON), 2004 Vidal Icewine
Royal DeMaria Winery (ON), 2003 Niagara Peninsula RDW Vineyards Vidal Icewine
Weingut Frey, 2005 Essinger Osterberg Kerner Beerenauslese
Lynfred Winery (IL), 2005 Malbec
North Lake Wines (Chile), Escudo Rojo 2003 Maipo Chile Red (55% Cab Sauv / 27% Carmenere / 8% Cab Franc / 7% Syrah)
Gallo Family Vineyards (CA), Twin Valley California Merlot
WineHaven Winery & Vineyard (MN), Minnesota Raspberry Wine
Wimbledon Wine Company (CA), Hahn Estates Winery 2005 Monterey Pinot Noir
Centarra Wine CO (NZ), Monkey Bay 2006 Hawkes Bay New Zealand Rose (70% Merlot / 17% Malbec / 7% Pinot age / 6% Syrah)
Widmer's Wine Cellars (NY), NV Widmer Solaira Cream Sherry
J. Lohr Winery (CA), 2005 Paso Robles South Ridge Syrah (80% Syrah / 10 % Petite Verdot / 5% Petite Syrah)
Jackson Wine Estates International (AU), Yangarra Estate Vineyard 2005 McLaren Vale Estate Grown Shiraz
Wild Wood Winery (CA), 2003 Syrah Gina
Wimbledon Wine Company (CA), Hahn Estates Winery 2004 Central Coast Syrah
Arbor Hill Grapery (NY), 2005 Finger lakes Classic Traminette
Rappahannock Cellars (VA), 2006 Virginia Viognier
York Mountain Winery (CA), 2005 Paso Robles Viognier

Chamarré Wines

Recently we got our hands on a few French wines distributed in the United States by OWS under the Chamarré label. According to their website, “The Other Wine & Spirits CY is a brand-driven organization dedicated to the development of wine and spirits brands. We are the sister company of OVS, the mastermind behind the Chamarré Brand concept and the creator of the unique association of the largest wine cooperative and producers in France's history.”

Made by winemaker, Renaud Rosari, Chamarré wines fall under three product lines: Grande Réserve, AOC, and Duo Varietal. Chamarré Grande Réserve wines are vertical blends of single grape varietals, picked in France’s best-producing regions. The AOC wines are a blend of traditional French AOC with the most prestigious AOC wines. And the Duo Varietal wines are a blend of two varietals typical of a French wine-producing region, in which a second varietal brings complexity, fruit and depth to the main varietal.

We tried three Chamarré wines: the Grand Reserve Pinot Noir, the AOC Jurançon, and the Duo Varietal Grenache-Shiraz. The later is a rosé-styled wine in which the Shiraz brings “freshness and structure” and the Grenache “its Mediterranean body and elegance”. This is a very dry wine, which at first we did not know how to appraise. We had been drinking many fruit forward semi-dry rosé wines and this one was completely different. After drinking one glass for three successive nights we became fascinated with this wine. The initial taste and nose are soft; I guess that is “the elegance”. However, the beauty is the finish; a long lasting, complex sensation of bubbling fruit. The finish stayed with you longer than any wine I’ve tasted.

The Jurançon wine is a blend of Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng, traditional grape varietals grown in the Jurançon region in southwest France. According to many sources, it is said that Jurançon was used to baptize King Henri IV of France. The Chamarré Jurançon is made sweet with, according to my impression, a pineapple-citrus flavor. However, we served the wine to friends, and received several different interpretations. One person compared it to a good mead wine, whereas another said, no, it just has the aroma and taste of honeysuckle. Others tasted mango, some tasted pineapple, whereas only a few tasted my original pineapple-citrus assessment. Regardless all liked the taste and were disappointed when told we only had one bottle.

Our favorite of the three was the Grand Reserve Pinot Noir. This is particularly surprising since our wine cellar is stocked with Zinfandel, Norton, Chambourcin, and high alcohol, full bodied cabs. We never joined the Pinot bandwagon; although I guess, it’s never too late. This Pinot Noir is a vertical blend of Pinot grapes grown throughout France. It is full-bodied, yet soft – not overwhelming; it compliments meals without overpowering them. The wine is aged 6 months in oak which produces a soft, smooth finish. Well done.

In sum, the Chamarré wines we tasted were very good and very different from most of the “New World” wines we had been drinking. If you have a chance we recommend trying a Chamarré wine. Just look for the butterfly.